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FAQs on
Betta Diseases: Ich/White Spot
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Quinines...)
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This This fish has
white-spot, Ich... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm
and the linked files above till you understand... I would be
raising the temperature... at least... Read, understand, act...
and soon. Bob Fenner
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Need answer! Betta, Ich?
8/8/11
Hi. I had my beta fish about for 5 months. Every since I had her she
been great. Except this week. she been having white bubbles spots on
her body
<Perhaps "Ich"; Whitespot disease>
and when I feed her she jumps up out of the water to catch the food. I
Know she's happy fish she makes bubbles. She's a lonely fish .
I feed her every time she sees me and stares at my hand going up. The
only problem that I need your help why does my fish have white bubbles
growing on her body.
Thank you very much.
Your friend ,
Walaa
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/BetDisIchF.htm
and the embedded linked files. Likely a cure can be effected by raising
temperature. Bob Fenner>
Help! Betta hlth. 10/11/09
I searched your website and couldn't find anything that sounded
much like my Betta's situation... so my last resort is writing you
guys!
<Fire away.>
I have a crimson-colored male Betta fish that is about 4 years old. I
have had Bettas live up to 8 years before, so unless that is just
really unusual, I don't think it's old age.
<It is indeed very, very unusual for Bettas to live this long. A
good average for a properly cared for Betta is some 2-3 years after
purchase (male Bettas being about 6 months old before they're sent
to pet shops).>
Amazingly, I've never had a fish that's gotten Ich, however I
think my Betta has just a touch of it right now.
<Have you added anything to its tank? Adding new fish is the classic
thing, since Ick/Whitespot is very common at tropical fish shops. But
even if you don't add a new fish to this particular aquarium,
there's the potential for the parasite to "hitchhike"
between tanks on wet objects, e.g., plants, filter media, nets,
etc.>
I am planning to get him some meds for that tomorrow. I don't think
that's the problem, though. I've always kept my Bettas in small
Betta bowls, and NEVER had a problem.
<Hmm... not a big fan of Betta bowls, to be honest.>
I change the water and feed them regularly.
<How often do you change the water? The best way to keep a Betta is
in a heated, filtered aquarium. Anything without a filter or without a
heater will be inferior to a proper aquarium.>
Also use water treatments for tap water. I don't use heaters or
filters, but my house is usually kept at about 75 degrees..
<Actually a bit on the cool side. As you'd expect for a tropical
fish, unless your house is in the tropics (without air conditioning, of
course)
air temperature isn't likely to be optimal. One reason your Betta
lives longer than usual may be that it is cooler than it would be in
the wild.
Now, before you get too excited, this is generally a bad thing,
underlined, capital letters. Why? Because when animals are cooler than
they should be, their immune system can't work properly, and their
digestive system can't work at the right speed, causing problems
with nutrient absorption and even food rotting in the gut. So, bottom
line, while you might be "lucky", and in theory at least,
wild Bettas are just fine at 24 C/ 75 F, domesticated Bettas, e.g.,
Fancy Bettas, should be kept between 25 and 30 C (77 to 86 F).>
and as I said, I've never had a problem.
<You can play Russian Roulette a few times and not kill yourself,
doesn't make it safe. Expert opinion overwhelmingly agrees that
Bettas are better (if you'll pardon the pun) kept in filtered,
heated aquaria. There's no serious debate on this issue, even
though lots of Betta keepers keep their Bettas in bowls. The problem is
that the vast majority of Bettas kept that way die prematurely, often
very quickly. There are no advantages to keeping Bettas in bowls,
except that it's a cheaper way to keep them. They are always,
repeat ALWAYS, better in filtered, heated tanks.>
Well, a couple weeks ago, my Betta got sort of a sore on his head. I
thought maybe it was from getting a little too rambunctious and banging
around in the bowl, as he used to do sometimes... but the sore has
gotten bigger, and he looks AWFUL now.
<Secondary infection. As I said above, when fish are too cold, their
immune systems can't work. In unfiltered aquaria you also have
higher levels of ammonia and nitrite than in correctly filtered tanks.
Feel free to check the ammonia level of your bowl; if it isn't
zero, then that's likely why the wound got infected.>
I've tried changing his water.. then I moved him to a bigger
environment... about 2 gallons.
<Still too small. Bettas need tanks around 5 gallons upwards for
proper conditions. If you think about this idiotic "they live in
puddles" idea Bettas keepers seem attached to, it's obviously
rubbish. Bettas live in streams and lakes, and they need just as much
swimming space as any other fish. Fancy Bettas admittedly can't
swim well because we've bred them to have cripplingly long fins, so
a 5 gallon tank with a gentle air-powered sponge filter is
adequate.>
He looks a little bloated and floats on top of the water. When I tap
the glass, he will swim, but then he goes right back and floats on his
side.
His sore is literally open.
<Secondary infection; use an antibiotic (i.e., not some silly
tea-tree oil thing). Maracyn is the "drug of choice" in the
US for secondary infections of this type. Elsewhere you may need to get
antibiotics from a vet, or else try an antibacterial formalin and/or
copper medication, e.g., eSHa 2000.>
It goes all the way from his eye to his mouth and the dead center of
his head. It has a couple tiny whitish spots in it... I'm not sure
if they're bone or Ich.
<Likely rotting flesh, dead skin. Basically gangrene.>
I tried putting him in salt water and he did swim around more, but his
sore started to bleed! After a few minutes it stopped and I put him
back in his normal water. He won't eat, either. I'm just trying
to give you all the background I can on the situation... but my
question to you guys is: What could this huge sore be, and how can I
fix it?! Thank you SO much. -Amanda
<Cheers, Neale.>
Betta Sorority with Ich: FW disease, reading
4/6/2009
Hi there!
<Hi Anitra>
I looked around the site and couldn't find anything specific to
what I was looking for since I have some parameters that leave me
looking for options besides the standard...
<Fire away.>
I have a 10 gallon heavily planted tank with a sorority of Bettas who
have come down with Ich.. I also have about 7 ghost shrimp in there as
well.
What is the best treatment option- since I have shrimp that are almost,
if not, impossible to catch and remove. Also, if you recommend aquarium
salt, what is the best dosage for curing, and how do I measure salinity
accurately during this?
<All answered on this page and the linked pages at the top:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwich.htm Though with a
planted tank, treatment is best done in a separate tank >
Plants include Elodea, Anubias and various large leaf swords, along
with a plant that I can never remember the name to.
Temperature is currently at 80F and held stable. I can see the fish are
not comfortable- I have a feeling the Ich came in with my new batch of
ghost shrimp. I now see the reasoning behind quarantining- I just never
realized that ghost shrimp can be carriers, even if they can't be
hosts.
<Cysts can be transmitted by any wet object, thus the value of
quarantine.>
Any help is appreciated! Thank You!
<My Pleasure>
Anitra
<Mike>
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I have a female Betta fish. Ich & More...
no reading 3/6/08 I have
had her for about 3 months. She was a healthy fish when I bought
her.? She has a bulging belly. I haven't changed anything in
her diet and I change the water regularly. She lives in a
ten-gallon aquarium with 2 other female Bettas and an algae
eater. There? are live bamboo and lily plants? in the tank. It
has an internal filter. None of the other fish are having any
problems. There are pictures from different angles attached. The
bulge is only on one side. I have moved the fish to a? bowl so
that the other fish wouldn't mess with it. It has low energy
and is not eating well.? Can you help me? <... This fish has
white-spot, Ich... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm and the linked
files above till you understand... I would be raising the
temperature... at least... Read, understand, act... and soon. Bob
Fenner>
Re: I have a
female Betta fish. Ich 03/11/2008 Thank-you for the help. The Ich has mostly fallen off of the
fish and she is no longer bloated, but now she has a hole in her
side. I have attached a picture showing the hole. Is there
something I can do about this? Is it caused by anything? Please
get back to me ASAP. <... just keep reading where you were
referred to. BobF>
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Ich Vash! Betta is Ich-y 11/30/05 I bought this
Betta a week and a half ago. His name is Vash. He has white spots on
his body. He was acting healthy yesterday and I saw no signs of
anything wrong. Today I noticed the Ick and went to the store and
bought Ick Away. I clean his water very regularly, but I'm afraid I
feed him too much. Could that have caused it? <You should feed very,
very sparingly in this small tank.> I'm so confused. He is in a
2.5 gallon tank and seemed extremely healthy (flared fins and playful
movements). <Yup, Bettas are great.> Why did he get this disease?
I just lost another beta exactly a week ago. <He may have already
been carrying it at the store (the life cycle of Ick is around 4
weeks).> This one is my favorite and I really don't want him to
die. I'm sorry, I didn't have time to read through all the
sites on WetWebMedia. Is there anything else I can do? I'm afraid I
will lose him very soon. Please respond as soon as possible. <I
would gradually raise the temperature in the tank (you'll need a
small submersible heater) to over 85 degrees. This will speed up the
life cycle of the Ick. Add aquarium salt according to the directions on
the package to kill parasites. Replace part of the water frequently
with dechlorinated water of the same temperature, salted enough to keep
the salt concentration at the correct levels. When removing water from
the tank, try to suck it from the bottom. Continue this treatment (heat
and salt) for a couple of weeks after all symptoms have disappeared.
After this, do read up on nitrogenous wastes (ammonia, nitrite and
nitrate), and how to keep them in check.> Thank you. -Katie-
<Welcome. Best of luck to you and your Anabantoid friend.
John>
Ich! Vash! Getting Better 12/1/05 Thank you so much,
John, for the quick reply. <You're welcome> You probably
saved my fish. Vash is clearing up. He only has a few spots now.
<Good to hear. Remember, Ich has a 4-week lifecycle... and is only
visible on the fish for one week of this, so be sure to follow the
recommended course on the bottle through to completion. Vacuuming off
the bottom will also help to get rid of parasites which have dropped
off the fish.> I wasn't able to go purchase a heater last night,
but I turned up the heat in the dorm. <Stability is key here> The
Ick Away seems to have done the job for now, but I am still concerned.
Should I continue the treatment? I'm afraid I have become rather
paranoid about Vash after Wolfwood (my other Betta) died last week.
Wolfwood's bowl sat next to my "super loud" alarm clock.
Could that have been a factor in his death? <It's always
important to limit stress factors in fish, especially in such small
quarters> I don't know what was wrong with him. He wouldn't
eat and he laid vertically at the bottom of the bowl with his tail
straight up. He swam on his side and had to do complex acrobatics just
to get up for air. It became increasingly harder for him to do so. He
eventually gave up and dove down into the rocks as fast as he could and
didn't attempt to get air any more. I don't know if it was the
lack of air or the force of the impact that killed him. Could he have
had a swim-bladder problem? <I'd suspect water quality
issues.> As for Vash, do I have to look online for a heater for so
small a tank (2.5 gallons) or can I get one at Wal-Mart or PetSmart?
<I can't say (don't have such stores locally). It may even
be cheaper to just buy a cheap 5g tank and a 50W heater. Then, with a
small hang-on filter, you have the perfect tank for a Betta.>
Also, should I purchase rock salt and pH test strips? <Nitrite and
ammonia test kits will be of more use here.> Another question I have
concerns my friend's Bettas. She keeps her room fairly cold
(probably around 60 degrees), and she keeps them in rather small bowls.
Her fish have been doing fine for months now. Is this a fluke? <It
can be done -- these fish are very hardy. Unfortunately, they
all-too-often suffer for this.> I gave her Vash's old bowl after
I bought the tank for him, but it still doesn't seem big enough.
Her fish often change to a grayish color when the water gets dirty but
become vibrant again once their bowls are cleaned. She changes the
water once a week, but that doesn't seem enough for such a small
bowl. Sorry for writing so much. <You're very welcome.
Good luck with Vash.> Thanks again, Katie. <Best regards,
John>
Betta With Ich 12/7/05 My Betta is suffering from Ich.
I have noticed that his tail is becoming increasingly ragged and I am
finding pieces of it on the bottom of his tank. Could this be from fin
rot, or could the holes left by the parasite be making it more
susceptible to tearing? The pieces of tail are scattered within close
proximity to his decorative Roman columns. Could he be tearing his tail
on that when he goes to scratch himself? I need to know whether or not
to treat him for fin rot. Is it bad to mix medication for fin rot and
Ich? What is the best medicine (in your opinion) that works for each
disease? Some websites say that Ich medication should be coupled with
bacterial medication to fight secondary infection. Is this necessary?
If so, is it safe to combine medicines for Ich, bacteria, and fin rot
or would it unduly stress out my Betta? <Do a 30% water change,
vacuum the gravel and change the filter. Heat the water up to 82 F.
Treat with Rid-Ich+ by Kordon and treat with Nitrofuranace at the same
time. follow the directions on the bottles.-Chuck>
I Thought He Had Ich... 12/5/05 I thought that my Betta
had Ick because he had white spots, but they went away after a day. He
is still scratching though. He likes to but his face in the smooth
rocks on the bottom of the tank. He didn't do that before. I looked
more closely and found that there is a red break in the pearly scales
that cover most of his head. It is right in front of his gills. His
body is red so I wonder if it was always like that and I failed to
notice, or if its a symptom of something. Is there a disease that has
scratching, quick-fading white spots, sluggish then erratic movements,
and red slashes by the gills? Is it Ick or something else? The red
marks are really throwing me off. Please help. Thank you, Concerned
Betta Owner. <Lindsay, your Betta likely still has Ick. The white
spots are only visible on the fish for one out of the four-week
lifecycle of the parasite. I would treat by slowly raising the
temperature to 85 degrees, and salt the water with aquarium salt,
according to the directions. During this time, perform regular water
changes, being sure to salt the replacement water the requisite amount.
Please also read up on "cycling" a tank and how to test for
water quality. Best regards, John>
Betta With Ich - 01/03/2006 My Betta has
Ich. The instructions on the medication say to give the
recommended dosage every day until cured. I was wondering if my
tank doesn't have a filter, should I still give the
dosage every day? Will the medicine build up inside the tank and
poison my fish? The bottle also says to remove the carbon
filter (which I don't have). Is this because it will
suck up all the medication? Please help... I am very
confused. I don't want to over-help the little guy. <
You Betta got Ich from the water being too cold and by being exposed to
the parasite. Treat as prescribed on the bottle. Try to get the water
temp up to 80 F. Do 50% water changes every day before medicating. In
three to four days you should see some improvement.-Chuck>
Betta with Ich? 9/25/05 Hi Again, so sorry to bother
you all again. I have a 3 gallon Eclipse tank with a bio filter that
has been set up for approximately 8 months. I have a heater
that keeps the water at a very consistent 80 degrees, I have several
live plants, java ferns mostly and a Bolbitis, I have 1 male Betta who
I have had for 7 months. He has never shown any signs of
illness including lack of appetite. I check the water
regularly for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, they are all within the
proper levels...0, 0, 5-10 respectively. I have an airstone
in the back corner that is low bubbling to circulate the water in the
corner. I change 25 percent of the water every week
faithfully and vacuum the gravel. I add Aqua Nova each
time. I change the carbon filter cartridge every 30 days and
clean the pump. He eats a variety of food changing around
each day a combination of two of either Hikari pellets, Hikari freeze
dried shrimp, bloodworms and daphnia. He has a wonderful
appetite...but, this Betta developed fin rot and I asked for and
followed your advice and treated him with a compound
antibiotic. After I finished with treatment, I did a 70%
water change and added 1 tsp of aquarium salt. Well, his
fins appear to be coming back now but 2 nights ago when I looked at one
of his pectoral fins on the side it has a white spot! It
looks like an Ich spot but there is only one. I began upping
the water changes to 20% each night instead of one 25% each
week. The spot has not gotten any bigger, but now I am
worried I need to treat him for something else because it's there
but I am not sure what. Is it possible for a fish to have
one Ich spot? Could this be more fungus or a weird bacteria?
Just cannot imagine what on earth the problem is at this
point. I have KanaPlex, I have Tetracycline, I have
Maracide, I have Jungle Fungus Eliminator, and I have BettaMax on hand.
..could you please advise me as to what I should do or try, truly, I am
lost. I really do not want to medicate him more and
with the wrong thing if I should not. Thank you, I do not know what my
fish and I would do without you guys! Sue < You Bettas
fins may have initially got caught in the filter intake and tore his
fins. Then the fin rot may have gotten a hold. When fish are stressed
they are prone to come down with almost anything. You fish indeed may
have Ich. Keep up on the maintenance and watch him closely for the next
few days. If more spots appear then treat with Rid-Ich by
Kordon.-Chuck>
Just a Few Basic Questions Hi, I just have a few
questions about my Betta. First off, is a 2.5 gallon tank big
enough or should I get a bigger one? I'm contemplating on a new
filter, right now I have a sponge filter, is it adequate enough or
should I really consider buying a power filter? And what
recommendations do you have? Also, is it okay for me to put marbles on
the bottom of my tank or should I include some gravel too? And one
more! ;-) My fish has Ick, but he only has two spots so far, the one on
his face left after I added some aquarium salt, and my friend has some
"Ick away" by Wardley, is that brand okay or should I buy a
different one, I want to stop the Ick before it gets worse. My Betta
has been acting sort of weird, ever since I put him in his new tank he
sometimes goes spastic and swims up and down and in circles really
fast, is that normal? Or is there something wrong? The water is at the
right temp. and I put water conditioner in it (TetraAqua
"AquaSafe"), so is he just being himself or is there
something I should do? And just a curious question I guess,
whenever I turn the lights off in my room, but he charges at the glass
with his gills flared and his fins open wide, I assume that he can see
his reflection better, does he think there is another fish in the tank
or is there some other purpose for it? Thank you for your time!!
Chelsey W. <Great set up for a Betta. First problem to deal with is
the Ick. All you need is salt. Read here for it's proper use.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showquestion.php?faq=2&fldAuto=32
I would not use the Ick Away, salt will do the trick. Leave the bottom
bare until treatment is finished. Do water changes with a siphon from
the bottom. That's where the Ick reproduces. Always mix the same
concentration of salt in to the new water before adding it to the tank.
Turn the temp up to 84 and increase the air going to the sponge if
possible. Continue treatment for at least two weeks after the last spot
drops. After that you can add marbles if you like. I like gravel, but
it's up to you. I think you're right about why he's
charging the glass. As long as he doesn't bang his head too hard
it's not a problem. When you get the Ick cleared out you will need
to re establish the beneficial bacteria in the sponge. Read
here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
Never wash the sponge. Tap water will kill the bacterial colony. If it
gets clogged rinse it out in water removed from the tank. Sponges are
great for removing ammonia and nitrite from the water after that
bacteria gets established. Until then you should be testing and doing
water changes to correct any spikes. Don>
A Betta With "Salty" Spots (1/4/2004) I really hope
you can help me with my question. <I'll try. Steve Allen
tonight.> We have had our Betta "Angel" for at least three
months now and just recently I have noticed salty looking spots on her.
<Uh Oh> She still seems pretty active <good>, but these
spots do have me worried. She is my daughters fish, and my daughter and
her are a great team, whenever my daughter comes to the tank Angel
starts swimming as fast as she can back and forth, like she is showing
off for my daughter. These spots have started to worry me though. They
are small and grayish in color, like I said above, a salty look to
them. Please help me out ASAP. Thanks, Melissa <Well Melissa, it
sounds to me like you might be dealing with a case of freshwater Ich.
Start reading here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm
Read the article and all the FAQ & linked articles. If it does look
like Ich, the articles explain how to treat. You might also wan to look
for the book "Manual of Fish Health" by Dr. Chris Andrews and
associates. Hope this info helps.>