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FAQs About Red Ear Slider Turtle Behavior Related Articles:
The Care and Keeping of the
Red Eared Slider,
Trachemys scripta elegans by
Darrel Barton, Red Ear
Sliders, Turtles, Amphibians, Red
Eared Slider Care, Shell Rot in
Turtles,
Related FAQs: Sliders 1,
Sliders 2,
Red Eared Slider Identification,
RES Compatibility,
RES Selection, RES
Systems, RES Feeding,
RES Disease, RES
Reproduction, Turtles in General:
Turtles, Turtle Identification,
Turtle Behavior,
Turtle Compatibility,
Turtle Selection,
Turtle Systems,
Turtle Feeding,
Turtle Disease,
Turtle Disease 2,
Shell Rot,
Turtle Reproduction,
Amphibians, Other
Reptiles,
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http://forums.kingsnake.com/forum.php?catid=32
http://www.turtletimes.com/Forums/default.asp
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RES turtle question...
beh./repro. mostly, plus keen insight into the human cond.
8/18/08
Hi - I hope you can answer my questions, as I don't know how to do it on
your website.
<Quite simple. Start on the Freshwater page, go to Livestock, and then
browse the Turtle articles and FAQs. Failing that, there's a Google search
box.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlvstkind2.htm
>
I have two sliders, about 11 years old, probably from the same "litter" (is
that the correct word?) and very, very friendly. They are great pets, very
responsive, eat out of our hands and we love watching them. They live in a
10 gal. turtle tank,
<Whoa... 10 gallons? That's WAY too small for them. At 11 years old, these
things should be the size of dinner plates. Do see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/redearsliders.htm
>
have a nice big floating rock on one end, and love to stand up on their hind
legs on the rock and hang on the sticks that support the rock with their
front legs. They both learned this trick on their own.
<Hmm... suspect they learned this more from necessity than any sense of fun.
This habitat is just too small for them.>
They get along really well, and the only time there's competition is when
they eat. One is bigger and dominant, but they never fight.
<OK.>
Last year they started this fluttering thing, and reading your website I see
it's courtship behavior. It seems to be mutual, no one turtle chasing the
other, and both seem to have the same length of nails. My husband wonders if
they are gay -- well, OK, maybe, but maybe they are of different genders and
I can't tell.
<Trachemys scripta elegans is easy to sex. Males have much longer claws on
their front flippers than females. Males also have longer, thicker tails
with the cloaca (the combined anal/genital opening) near the tip rather than
close to the shell.>
So, if they aren't the same sex, what should I do? There is no sand in the
tank (it's a water tank, so sand never occurred to me). Should I try sand,
and what kind of sand?
<Do see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtlereprofaqs.htm
>
I see no evidence of sex organs or even mating behavior. The fluttering is
lovely to watch -- so gentle and sweet. We feel it's communication on a
level we can't quite understand, and are not meant to understand. Sometimes
they do it twice or three times a day, and sometimes not at all. Today and
yesterday I saw it again.
<Glad it's providing entertainment! Yes, it is quite a strange thing to
see...>
However, if I should be doing something for them, can you let me know?
<If nothing else, a bigger habitat.>
Their names are Yin and Yang and I have them since they were very very
small.
It's interesting how you can get to really like turtles -- never thought it
would be possible, but they really have fun personalities!
<It is certainly possible to become fond of any pet animal, even one with
such limited intelligence as a terrapin. I always thought they have very
pretty faces, especially eyes.>
Thanks for any advice you can give --
Susan
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Red Eared Slider behavior – 07/14/08
Hi,
<Hiya, Darrel here>
I have a few questions for you, I hope you can help me care better for my
son Pauli:
<I'm going to read on before I make any leaps of logic here>
1. I bought a RES, her eyes were swollen shut and were draining pus. I went
to the Pet Shop and got drops and other medicines, the tank has UV lights,
the water temp was fine, and I left her in the sun for 30mins a day, but
after a week she died, I just want to know what more I could have done as I
am scared to buy another one, I got too attached and then got sick when she
died.
<On behalf of Bob Fenner and the entire crew, we're sorry for your loss,
Chantell. Buying an animal that is already showing signs of illness will
almost never have a happy ending. The predators of fish and reptiles usually
go for the weak and injured animals first, so if you're a fish or a turtle
it pays NOT to be sick or injured, but even if you are sick or injured -- it
pays to not APPEAR to be sick or injured. For this reason fish and reptiles
are very stoic animals - they often will appear to be just FINE until
suddenly they appear REALLY sick and this is often just hours before they
die. Most fish or reptiles have had a debilitating disease for weeks --
sometimes even months -- without any signs that you would see unless you
were looking closely and knew just what to look for>
<You did the right things -- Vitamin A (injections are best but drops
usually work), massive antibiotic injections and sunlight are three of the
four things needed, but by the time the eyes are weeping pus, the fourth
item you needed was a small miracle. Again, our sympathies.>
2. Also I have a male Red Eared Slider named Pauli that I have had for about
8 months now. He is healthy and beautiful. Last night I was talking to him
and he started to make funny sounds, like he was "talking" back to me. I
called my husband as I thought I was imagining it but he did the same. He
swims to the top of the water with just his head out and then makes the
sounds. Is it normal?
<Is he telling you to kill your landlord or buy stocks in an Internet
Startup? I know that sounds crazy, Chantell, but take it from me -- I breed
turtles ... and turtles don't know ANYTHING about the stock market!>
<Seriously, the can make a sort of clicking sound with their jaws and
something resembling a hiss/growl as they breathe. The thing to do is make
SURE that it's not the bubbly/raspy sound of breathing through an upper
respiratory infection. Look closely for bubbles coming from the nose as he
breathes.>
3. Pauli eats anything meaty and leafy, but he refuses to eat the pellets we
give him. I have tried to mix it with meaty things but he is too clever, he
eats the meat and leaves the pellets, when he does occasionally bit into one
he spits it right back out. Do you have any suggestions how to get him to
eat it?
<Yes I do, but you're not going to like it. After you verify that Pauli is
otherwise healthy you stop giving him food of any kind except Tetra brand
Repto-Min and you offer THAT only once a week for no longer than 10 minutes
& then you remove it and try again next week. Week after week. Into next
month and maybe the month after. Until Pauli gets hungry enough to eat. It's
a contest of wills, Chantell. I once went .... brace yourself .... in fact
sit down .... I once went THREE AND A HALF YEARS with a Box turtle named
Clara that had fixated on strawberries and wouldn't eat anything else. Every
week, every month, every year .... nothing. I was convinced she was trying
to out-live me until one day she turned a corner and ate the earthworm I'd
offered. After that, everything was fine except for her incessant chatter
about investing in some company named goodell or goober or Google or
something like that!>
<Make sure that water temp is not too warm -- and that basking temp IS nice
and warm. Available temperature choices are a major factor in eating
habits.>
4. Last question, Pauli sometimes has the habit of swimming around and then
doing a 180degree turn in the water when visitors come over, is he playing?
<We're not sure if turtles have that level of sentient awareness, Chantell,
but they sure do entertaining things!>
Thank you,
<You're welcome!>
Chantell
P.S We don't have vets in the UAE specializing in reptiles, so a friend
suggested this sight. Keep up the great work, I learned a few things from
the site.
<Keep the kudos coming! We're vain & shallow & respond well to praise!!!!!!>
What is she doing? RES
beh. 7/6/08
hello,
<Hiya Mom -- Darrel here>
My son and I have a female Red Eared Slider and she has been doing some odd
things;
<I have a son and HE is doing some odd things -- but he's 15 so I just
ignore it>
First she will often (if you put your finger pad against the glass) put her
head down and tuck it in a bit then she will frame her face with her claws
and vibrate them.
<Interesting, that sounds like a male courting behavior. You haven't said
how big the turtle is (turtles reach sexual maturity with SIZE, not age) or
how we know it's a female. Is the shell about 3 inches long or more? Are the
front claws elongated? (See Figure 1 in the link below) If so, you have a
male not a female>
The second odd thing she has done is (when I had her outside yesterday in
the sun) that as I held her she peed 2 times and then looked like she was
about to poop but then something black with a yellow center came out of her
poop hole instead, she pushed it out and pulled it back in 2 times.
<The evidence is piling up .....>
When I took her back inside she did not do it again. I am concerned- is this
normal or was that her bowels?
<That was his .. um .... reproductive organ and as long as he can pull it
back in, then it's normal -- although I'd caution your son that it's ok
normal for a TURTLE to do that, not for a human (boy was THAT ever an
expensive lesson!!!!!>
or was that her womb that she was thinking needed to be out to be
fertilized?
<Not really, everything is fine>
What do these two behaviors mean?
<They mean that your little turtle has grown up. There's nothing you have to
do about it, either. Sliders are colonial animals, which is to say that in
the wild they tend to congregate, but they don't seem to suffer at all being
housed singularly.>
thanks
<Hope that helps!>
mama T
<
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
RES with weird behaviors,
hlth. issues, reading – 03/18/08
Hi WWM Crew,
<Doris>
This is my first time writing to a webpage with a question so I'm not quite sure
if I'm doing it right or not. I have 4 RES. One RES is older by two years. About
45-50 days ago I purchased 3 baby RES. I've recently changed the 20 gallon tank
to a 40 gallon tank, with a floating island and a basking light. When I came
home I noticed that one of my turtles weren't moving in the water. I took
him/her out to see if anything is wrong, it seems that the right eye isn't fully
opened kind of like a lazy eye. I placed it on land and realized it stretched
out its neck and opened its mouth like it's trying to take in oxygen. After
taking oxygen the RES "lazy eye" opened like before. Is my RES not ready to be
in such a big tank with that much water?
<Reads like it is having troubles... with both breathing and its eyes...>
Or could it be lack of oxygen? Is my RES sick?
<The latter>
I hope you have an answer to my questions. By the way this is a great site.
Thanks for having this site for people who have questions like me.
Sincerely,
Doris.
<Please make use of it. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlvstkind2.htm
toward the bottom... on Turtle Diseases. Bob Fenner>
|
Weird behavior, RES
2/13/08
greetings...
<Hiya Viki -- Darrel here>
I have 2 young Red Eared Sliders about 2 ". Boris is perky but doesn't eat
pellets...likes chicken and crickets...
<Would you eat what's good for you if you could eat snack food instead? Those
foods as a staple diet will lead to malnutrition, starting with vitamin
deficiency. If you can't get them on Reptomin or koi pellets (same food, just
cheaper) then feed them night crawlers (earthworms). Start feeding the worms
three times a week - to build up their diet .... then after a month, reduce to
once a week while offering pellets the other two times. The idea is that once
they're healthier we let them get hungry enough to finally accept the pellets.>
Natasha doesn't do much except some BIZARRE neck stretching and opening her
mouth and making a sort of clicking noise. She doesn't eat, doesn't really swim
<If she does that frequently it is usually a sign of metabolic bone debilitation
(probably brought on by the bad diet) but it can be easily and quickly treated.
She needs vitamins and calcium and hopefully she'll get both in the worms and
eventually the pellets if you can get her to eat. Raise the temperature of her
environment a few degrees and see if that helps get her appetite back. Also,
short (5 minute) soaks in 85 degree water can also help stimulate the appetite,
Failing that, you'd need to see a veterinarian about vitamin and calcium
injections>
I got a new light to intensify the basking scene...
<Basking & warmth is good, but are they getting UVA/UBV as well?>
any other suggestions?
<FIRST, WE SET TRAP FOR MOOSE AND SQUIRREL!
[psst! Did y'all know that Rocky (Rocket J Squirrel) was a girl squirrel?]>
She seems sort of , I dunno, handicapped.
<Not handicapped ... debilitated -- on her way to becoming ill. But hopefully we
caught it in time and can get her back on track in a hurry>
thanks for your help.
<Yer welcome -- read this link for a quick refresher course>
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
Re: weird behavior...
Chelonian f's 2-14-08
Oy sad to say that Natasha expired this evening. very sad. it got to be that
every time she stretched her neck tonight she would tip over.
oy oy oy.
OF course she was debilitated, she never ate from the moment she arrived
here...We're working on Boris' diet. earthworms for breakfast. thanks for your
time and help.
V
<Dear Viki,
On behalf of Bob Fenner and the entire crew we're truly sorry for your loss.
Please keep us updated on Boris and don't hesitate to let us know if we can be
of further help>
<Kind Regards, Darrel>
Re: weird behavior... Boris
the chelonian 2/27/08
Hi Darrel...Boris is doing really well. He always seems hungry now - he eats
pellets and earthworms greedily. How often do you think they
should eat when they're this little?
<Less than we eat, Viki -- I feed mine every other day in the summer and every
three to four days in winter. As long as WHAT they eat is healthy for them, then
our next big problem is obesity. Believe it or not, more of our pets die of over
feeding and the complications that brings than pass from insufficient diet. Glad
everything is working out!>
|
Young Slider with shell color
changes 2/13/08
Hi WWM,
<Hiya SB!>
Thanks for being here and having such a great site.
<Thank you, too. We like being here!>
I couldn't quite find what I was looking for with the search engine because I'm
not too familiar with the terminology and the structure of turtle's shells. I
have a very young Red Eared Slider turtle (slightly bigger than a 50 cent
piece). I've been taking care of it since November and things have been going
pretty good. I have a 20 gallon tank, a hang-on filter (I know they're not very
good, but I can't afford a canister right now)
<Actually, hold up there. It's just fine for a tank that size, it's easier to
clean than a canister and for that reason you'll do it more often -- if it's
working for you, don't change it!>
A UVB/UVA bulb directly overhead, an ample basking area, and I feed the turtle a
diet of ReptoMin pellets and occasionally a krill as a treat (maybe three times
a week). I also completely clean out the tank every Friday unless I'm especially
busy.
<Sounds good so far. Better than good. Great actually.>
Lately I've been noticing the colors of his shell changing. The area between the
sections (I suppose they're called scutes?)
<They are called scutes and the area between the scutes are called margins ...
but mainly called ..... The Area Between Scutes>
of the carapace has been becoming darker and darker, until now it's almost
black. Although the turtle is still acting normally and very energetic
(constantly tries to bite me during feeding), this has me very worried. What are
the possible causes of this and what should I do?
<That's normal as the grow, SB. As he/she ages they bright green is replaced by
a duller green and then a darker color that helps them blend in to their
surroundings and the margins become dark & then black. SO ...... IN OTHER WORDS
... the cause for this is that your Slider is growing and thriving because
you're being such a good care giver!!!>
Thanks in advance for your help.
<Once again, you do the work ..... and I take the thanks. I LOVE THIS
JOB!!!!!!!! -- Darrel>
Strange fanning behaviour on
red eared sliders 1-22-08
Hello,
I have read through your behaviour answers and have learned that the fanning of
the front feet signify an attempt to attract the attention of a female.
<Correct. They also do it when they're mating. I had two terrapins of different
species, and yet the male would "mount" the female (hardly the correct word, but
you get the drift) and it would seem like he was scratching her eyes out.>
All good. However, I have to sliders, one is about 2" and one about 2.5" large
(I can't tell if they are male or female because they are too small still.) They
are the same age. The larger one is swimming up to the smaller one and starts
fanning the front arms then the smaller ones sits and does it back. Are my
turtles just confused or is it also an aggressive show of dominance? Is there
something I should be worried about here?
<Quite normal, and nothing to worry about. It may be pre-mating display, or a
dominance display, or merely some sort of reptilian chit-chat. Provided the
terrapins don't start biting each other, they're fine.>
Thank you very much
Suzy
<Cheers, Neale.>
Red Eared Slider Question,
shell colour 1/1/08
Hi,
I have had an unusual occurrence with one of my red eared sliders. We have
raised them from hatchlings and they are currently in a 30 gallon tank
(they are three). They have uv light, heat lamps and a basking area. The water
and filter are changed regularly. They both seem healthy and energetic, but the
larger one's scales have taken on a reddish tint. This is both on the top of his
shell and the bottom. His skin appears normal in color, and their are no soft
spots or fungus growth. Any idea what we might be dealing with?
Thanks so much!
Lori
<Hmm... difficult to say without seeing them, but do bear in mind that old
scales (or scutes, to be more precise) at the top of the shell eventually flake
off the shell. Before that happens they tend to become semi-transparent and more
horny-looking rather than the green/brown they normally are. In addition, as the
Sliders grow, their overall colour becomes less bright green and more
green/brown. Provided your Slider is otherwise healthy and shows no sign of
infection, then I'd not be too alarmed just yet. Cheers, Neale.>
Is an over-active Slider too
hot? – 11/16/07
Hey Crew!
<Hiya Jamie!>
I read through your Faq's and I really enjoyed the site. Thank you for the great
info!
Well onto my questions...
My first question is about my female RES that I bought about 6 months ago, she's
been very healthy and always active and friendly. We keep her in long 20 gallon
tank, with a heater/filter, heat kept around 78 degrees, basking platform that
she can easy climb on, and a UVA/UVB lamp. She's about 4 inches now, maybe
slightly bigger.
1) First problem encountered with her was that she refuses to eat any kind of
pellets, we tried 3 different kinds and even soaked tem in tuna to entice her.
She dislikes them so much, she even acts like they aren't there. After many
tries, we finally decided to try to keep a balanced diet (as best as we can)
with veggies and extra stuff (usually feeder fish, crickets, krill..etc.) Any
suggestions on how to keep a good stable diet?
<The first problem is that the water is too hot. Water temp should be around
65-73 and the dry land/basking temp between 85-93 -- She needs to have a choice
as to be warm & dry or wet & cool and so far you've taken that choice away from
her. -- I'll address the feeding concerns a little later on>
2) For some reason lately she has become extremely active and loves to climb
onto her basking platform and then attempts to climb out of her tank, sometimes
getting too close for comfort. She even ends up back flipping into the water and
one time got stuck. Any explanation as to why she is doing this and how we can
prevent it?
<My guess is that she's active because she's a bit over heated and her behavior
will change when you provide her the proper temperature gradients. Also, you'll
find that the water stays a bit cleaner and clearer at the lower temperatures>
<Now, as far as diet and diet fixations go ... Sliders are not usually very
picky. If she's otherwise healthy and after about 3 months of correcting her
temperature situation ... you can just stop offering her any other kind of foods
.... and offer the Koi pellets once a week, scooping them out if she hasn't
eaten in 15 minutes, and after about three weeks, she'll wake up & smell the
writing on the wall (to mix metaphors) and start eating the pellets. If she's
otherwise healthy, 3-6 weeks in nothing to HER ... but you'll be beside yourself
with needless worry. Just for comparison, I've had a box turtle so fixated on
strawberries that she refused any and all other food. When I finally started
offering her a proper diet or nothing at all ... she went for TWO YEARS and
three months!!!! It was a real test of wills with an animal that will likely
outlive me.>
<Start by correcting her environmental issues and read the link below -- check
all your husbandry against the guidelines and then ... when it's all perfect.
Just out-wait her ... and she'll come along.>
Thank you again, and I hope to hear from you soon.
-Jamie in Chico, Cali.
<Nice town, Jamie -- my son went to college there! -- Darrel>
<
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >
Hatchling Slider with odd
behavior 10/21/07
I wrote you recently about a hatchling Red Eared Slider that was exhibiting
some strange behavior; spinning in circles as it swims, flipping on it's back
and stretching it's neck up and back over it's shell. It has a great appetite,
basks regularly and spends equal time in the water. I keep the water temp around
80 deg. and the air temp in the aquarium basking area at 90. The turtle cannot
swim below the surface. It spins in circles as it swims because it is trying to
get to the bottom and cannot. When it wants to go to the bottom it clings to
objects in the aquarium and descends them holding on with its claws. The
flipping on it's back is also a result of it's struggle to get to and explore
the bottom. I have even held the turtle to the bottom for a sec. or two and then
let go and it quickly rises to the top like a fishing bobber submerged and then
released. The Slider's' appearance is healthy and maintains a good appetite. It
is fed a balanced diet 3 times a week. Could the turtle have underdeveloped
lungs, one working lung, or some sort of equilibrium imbalance?
<Those are all possibilities, Lorie. In addition to those sometimes a pocket of
gas can be generated from an internal infection and I've actually seen turtles
act this way temporarily because they simply had ... gas!>
<At the moment, your best course of action and treatment is to pay SCRUPULOUS
attention to detail regarding habitat, water quality and hygiene. Read and
re-read the article here:
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm) and compare your
keeping to the suggestions. First off, I'd lower the water temp to something
around 72 degrees (That's around 22.5 for those of you living in the developed
world) and give him a wider "choice" for his thermoregulation pleasure. Next I'd
make sure that he's getting unfiltered UV lighting when he is basking.>
It seems to have poor judgment skills; when it eats, it attacks the food but
often misjudges and misses them. <One of the endearing traits of turtles is
their often comical behavior -- but let's stay away from terms like "Poor
Judgment" unless you catch him ordering products from late night TV infomercials
or sending money to a Nigerian lawyer.>
I'm searching for answers about its condition have been unsuccessful.
<It's difficult TO answer because what you're describing is a consequence of
some condition -- much like seeing someone with a limp and trying to guess how
he got it>
I wonder if it is a permanent condition, or will it grow out of it.....or worse,
die?
<Once again, yes -- it could be any of those things. GENERALLY speaking ... if
an animal is thriving, which is to say "active, alert, feeding and growing" then
they will either grow out of or learn to compensate for any handicaps they may
have. Once in a while an animal can exhibit every trait of thriving and
compensating and then one day, suddenly and unexpectedly, succumb to a condition
or disease that they've been carrying almost since birth. Technically, a trip to
an experienced Herp Veterinarian and the resulting $698.20 medical bill would
yield a guess from an expert ... but still only a guess ... with the likely
result being that you're told to pay attention to habitat, water quality and
hygiene until a more clear-up symptom appeared. When the responsible pet keeper
does his or her part in providing a superior habitat, Red Eared Sliders can be
amazingly hardy.>
<regards -- Darrel>
Odd behavior, RES – 9/29/07
To Anyone Who Can Answer:
<Whew! As long as you didn't clarify that to an HELPFUL answer, I'm IN!>
I have two male red-eared sliders who have been together since they were just
babies. They are about three years old. Both are healthy and in a clean
environment. One is a bit smaller then the other, but not by much. They have a
set of bricks to lay on and I have a basking light on all night and also a UV
lamp on all day. The rest of the environment ( an old toy box cut down) is
water.
<Sounds good so far>
There is plenty of room for both to swim and to bask. I have observed the
flipping of the claws that the males do for some time. It never amounts to much
and they have never bitten each other. They do tend to follow each other around
the tank at times and seem aggressive, but nothing much has ever come of it.
<So far all is normal>
Just recently on several occasions we have found the two stuck together. The
smaller one has his head and part of his shell caught in-between the larger ones
top and bottom shell. His head is completely out of sight. We thought at first
the smaller one was biting the larger one, but they seem actually stuck. We have
pulled them apart several times, but last night I heard a splashing and a lot of
noise coming from their tank and went to investigate. I found them stuck once
again. I placed them both on the bricks and was trying to remove the rack that
the light sits on so I could pull them apart when they somehow got themselves
unstuck.
<Sounds a bit comical, doesn't it?>
There was a loud like suction noise when they parted.
<Complete with sound effects!>
I am afraid that the smaller one will drown if he can not get unstuck from the
larger one while they are in the water. I think the brick gave them traction to
get apart from one another. They can't get on the bricks while they are stuck
together and they don't seem to be able to get unstuck in the water. Have you
ever heard of something like this and do you think the little one can unstick
himself if he wants too, or is he really stuck and likely to drown?
<I've never honestly witnessed to turtles STUCK like that. I've seen positions
and behaviors that are similar, but never exactly THAT -- and it's not covered
in the literature, either. My guess is that little Bobby can get himself out of
any place he gets himself into, but I wouldn't take that chance, either.>
I hate the thought of separating them as they really have never gotten that
aggressive with each other and finding space for another set up would be a real
headache, not to mention a big expense. What should I do?
< I'd separate them. As much as turtles seem to "enjoy" being together, they do
fine individually as well. I wouldn't look to a whole new setup, just possibly
rearranging the existing enclosure so that you could put a clear plastic divider
between the two running right down the center of the basking brick. A few months
apart and you could reintroduce them again and expect to find their behaviors
have changed, hopefully including this "edge play" (everyone get it??? Edge
play? As in the EDGES of the shell??? Bwahahahaha). Like I said, I doubt this is
a serious problem for THEM, but I agree it's a serious worry for US, so let's
make the effort.>
Thanks, Laura
<Welcome, Darrel> <<Great... RMF>>
Red Eared Slider help 7/21/07
Hello guys,
<Hiya Christopher -- Darrel here with you tonight>
I wanted to know how to take care of an Red Eared Slider in the winter.
For example, how much should I feed him, how often should I change the
water and should I still give it sunlight or UVB lighting.
<These are very good questions, but the answers are a bit muddy & not
very concrete.>
<Let's keep it simple. Sliders will respond to the TEMPERATURE CHANGES
of winter much more strongly than the subtleties of altered photoperiods
(shorter days) and all that science-type stuff. So as long as the
Temperature holds, it's not really "winter" as far as the turtle is
concerned. If your turtle is inside the house in an aquarium and there
is a normal basking light (there should not be a water heater) then for
your turtle, it's just another day in the swamp ... No winter to speak
of. If it's outside, in a pond .... it's way too small to BE in a pond
... so set up a tank indoors like I described above and -- presto -- no
winter. Now ... if it gets a LITTLE bit chilly where you have her, then
cut back the feeding just to be sure. It never hurts for them to be just
a little bit hungry.>
My turtle is 2 inches and is a female.
<A bit of a disagreement here, Chris. If it's only two inches and
assuming you haven't probed it, she's too small to determine the sex
yet. Notice I didn't say too "young" because for turtles, like most
reptiles, sexual maturity (and with that the visual differences between
the boys & girls) comes with SIZE, not age.>
Also, do you know the average growth rate of an RES. Just the
approximate average.
<That is SO totally dependant of heat, food and environment that
anything I say could be wrong (and at the same time right for someone
else) -- 3/4 to an inch each year for the first year to year & a half
and then slower after that .... but if it's warm enough and she's fed
enough, it could almost be double that>
Last, do turtles in fact hibernate or not?
<Sliders do, depending on where they are. In some Northern states wild
sliders have been known to over-winter at the bottom of a pond that's
frozen solid at the top. Now ... to anyone reading this who has sliders
that can be subject to winter conditions ... PLEASE keep in mind that
while they do hibernate and CAN survive a cold winter .... MANY wild
turtles do not survive. Some perish outright and many are so damaged
that they barely survive the next year. Mother Nature sees that 1,000
hatch so that ONE can live to lay another set of eggs. The odds do NOT
favor a turtle wild ... so please don't try it -- as responsible pet
keepers it's our job to improve Nature's odds, not duplicate them.>
Thanks for all your help.
<No charge!>
Turtle's basking habits– 09/17/07
Hey,
<Hiya>
I have a question about my Red Eared Slider. I have a female and doesn't really
bask a lot.
<Some will bask less than others, but it's good and healthy for her to bask and
there's always a concern that it's a sign of sickness or distress. Check your
water temperature and make sure it's not too warm (room temperature is fine)
since the primary reason for basking is to warm her body. If the basking area is
available and warm -- and she's otherwise healthy and active and it seems that
it's just her CHOICE not to bask, then don't worry about it.>
Also, she will only eat pellet foods. I have tried feeding it insects,
vegetables and fruits but it will only eat the pellet foods I give her. Is this
normal for an slider?
<Again, not really normal - They're omnivorous and usually will eat or at least
sample anything and everything offered. But with that said, a quality brand
pellet food, especially commercially available Koi pellets are a perfectly
balanced diet for a slider and there's not really any reason to feed them
anything else.>
Any additional information would be helpful.
<then here ya go: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
Thanks,
A concerned owner.
<Your welcome -- Darrel>
Re: Turtle's Basking Habits– 09/17/07
Thanks again for your reply. So just to clarify everything, if I feed my RES
koi pellets I don't need to feed it anything else or is it best to give her
different types of food along with the koi pellets. Thanks again.
<No, koi pellets alone aren't enough. You need to feed red-eared sliders a mix
of foods; it is generally recommended that adults receive about 75% of their
diet from plant foods. Clover, alfalfa, dandelion leaves, green lettuce (not
iceberg!), Sushi Nori, ripe tomatoes, plums, etc. all work well. They will also
happily eat cheap aquatic plants such as Elodea, often sold as "oxygenators" for
ponds and goldfish aquaria. Cheers, Neale.>
Can a turtle outgrow it's shell? 9/13/07
Hello again
<And a hearty hello, howdy & Hiya right back!>
So we've both established my Red Eared Slider turtle is growing too fast. :( I'm
trying to only feed 2 times a week now, adding more leafy veggies and less
pellets/dried prawns/bloodworms. Does that sound ok?
<The ONLY thing I feed mine are Koi pellets ... it's a vegetarian-based healthy
& balanced food>
I'm now wondering if Its possible for a Slider to outgrow it's shell?
I keep reading conflicting information online.
<Funny how the Internet has allowed any dufus with a web site the ability to
give advice, isn't it? Um .. wait a second .... that doesn't sound right ....
forget I said that, OK?>
His front legs and neck seem to be puffing out of his shell, and he never fully
retracts his legs or neck anymore. Perhaps this is because he is comfortable
with me and feels no need to protect himself???
<From the sound of it, he probably is relaxing a bit but fundamentally he sounds
obese! Keep on the diet and remember, they have VERY little to worry about or
run from in captivity -- they don't need very much to eat.>
If he is too big now, will his shell ever catch up to the body, even with more
restricted/varied diet ....
<In time, yes. The shell grows through a much slower process than the skin and
other organs ... it will take a LOT of time ... so please be patient>
... and more exercise? ...
<I want to make a point about this ... EVERY YEAR ... hundreds if not thousands
of people buy tiny little TurtleGym 1000's for their sliders based on
infomercials from Chuck Tortoise and ALL of them end up folded up & shoved under
a little corner of their hot rock gathering dust.>
<Ahem. OK .. I'm having one of those days. Or perhaps an "episode"><<Darrel
you're really out/in there today! RMF>>
<Pay attention to habitat, diet and temperature gradients and try not to
over-stress yourself or your little turtle.>
Thanks for all your help!
<Write back & send pics of him!>
<Regards, Darrel>
PS: Here's a link about the simple yet effective care for Sliders -- it was
written by a charming man who is outstanding in his field.>
<out ...>
<Standing is his field!>
<rimshot!>
<
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
Red Eared Slider Question,
beh. 8/13/07
I have been successfully raising our female turtle Barney for 5 years, from
pond to tank and now have a new baby named Ruby, but got stumped by a question
from my grandson: How long can Red Eared Sliders stay under the water without
coming up for air? I have been searching the web for an hour and have come up
with zip. Can you help?
<Yes we can. A healthy Slider can stay underwater longer than you've been
searching for that answer! In any case, 15-20 minutes. I've seen active sliders
submerge and sit on the bottom for an hour before surfacing, but my adult
sliders are submerged all night while they sleep. It all depends on their
temperature, metabolism and amount of activity.>
Thanks,
Jane
<welcome, Darrel>
Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question – 07/26/07
Hi Neale,
<Hello Ryan,>
I will get a picture tomorrow night of their shell and, hopefully, the Growth
Rings.
<Cool.>
I have noticed one new thing with my Babies. They seem to be eating a lot! they
never ate this much before. one would wait for you to leave the room before it
ate. Now it comes out and eats like there is no tomorrow.
<Normal. These are greedy animals. But the problem is likely a lack of fibre in
the diet. If "filled" with green foods containing lots of fibre, they feel
satiated more quickly. Just like humans really: we might crave fatty and sugary
foods but neither "fills us up". Besides, green foods are where some of the
essential vitamins are, like vitamins B and C, so take advantage of their
seemingly endless hunger to give them some greens.>
Is it possible to feed them too much?
<Not really, but water quality obviously suffers.>
All I have been feeding them lately is their baby floating pellets but if You
put 20 or 30 in the tank between the 2 of them they are gone in a matter of
minutes! Is this too much?
<If they eat them, then its fine. But I'd only use pellets only once or twice a
week; go raid the kitchen for green and invertebrate foods for the rest of their
diet. Blanched lettuce, tinned or frozen peas, courgette, soft fruit like melon
(with the rinds) and so on. Really, just try anything not obviously risky (chili
peppers and onions would perhaps be unwise!). Once these reptiles become adults,
their diet needs to be nearly 100% vegetarian if you want them to have good
health. In terms of meaty foods, once or twice a week offer frozen prawns,
mussels, and other bits of seafood. Don't use meat from warm blooded animals:
the fats congeal in cold blooded animals, causing problems.>
I heard it is possible for them to grow too fast for their shell.
<Garbage. When these terrapins show things like shell deformities, they are
either genetic or down to poor care, specifically a lack of UV light and not
enough of the right vitamins and minerals (especially calcium).>
Thanks Again!,
Ryan
<Cheers, Neale>
Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question 7/28/07
Hi Neale, I got those pictures of the turtles shells, Notice the
brown in between the plates that was never like that it was either black
or green. Any feedback on this is appreciated. I'm going to pick them up
some Peas and lettuce tomorrow, are blood worms good for them? I have
been throwing them in there too. Thanks again for all your helpful
information! Thanks Again, Ryan
<Hello Ryan. I'm afraid those photos are too small/blurry to really pick
out anything useful. If you can try again, zooming in on the brown stuff
that would help. At first glance, the image with the terrapin over the
red/black gravel looks as if it has been painted! The brown stuff seems
to be metallic, like gold paint. This isn't a silly idea on my part: it
used to be quite common to see terrapins and tortoises sold with simple
paintings and patterns on their shells. Anyway, since you said this
brown stuff has recently appeared, it can't be paint. So what I'm
interested in is whether the stuff is smooth or textured. Fungal
infections can happen on terrapin shells, and is revealed by a furry or
fluffy texture. Since the shell grows from the insides outwards, the
each "plate" on the shell is a stack of modified keratin scales, with
the oldest ones at the top. If your turtle is suffering from [a]
malnutrition or [b] lack of UVB light then the scales lower down the
stack will be deformed. So it would be interesting to see if the brown
stuff is actually a sign of deformed scales. It is extremely common for
these terrapins to be kept without sufficient UVB light, or with the
light but no space for them to bask underneath it. So remind me again
what lighting system you are using. It's also worth mentioning that as
the terrapins grow they lose their green colour and turn a muddy greeny
brown. The bright green plates at the top of each stack eventually fall
off, and you're left with a terrapin much less brightly coloured than it
was on purchase. Cheers, Neale> |
|
.JPG) |
Re: Red Ear
Slider Turtle Question 7/29/07
Hi Neale, It is a 75 Watt Halogen UVA Light, do I also need a UVB
light or maybe? The discoloration in the shell feels just like a shell
and it is metallic. Here are some better pictures for You, also are the
blood worms good for the turtles? Thanks Again, Ryan
<Hello Ryan, The terrapins in your pictures look fine to me. The dark
bands between the green scutes are the new, duller, scutes underneath
them. As we discussed earlier, these terrapins change colour as they
mature. I think that's what you're seeing here. There are no obvious
signs of malnutrition or disease as far as I can tell. Now, I'm not sure
why you have a UVA light. To synthesize the vitamins they need, these
reptiles must have access to UVB lighting. So if you can, swap the bulbs
in the fixture, or else add a UVB light to the system over their basking
spot. Bloodworms are a fine treat for your terrapins, but don't get them
hooked on them -- remember, a healthy slider is a (largely) vegetarian
slider. Just like people, these beasties may prefer the "meat" even
though its the "vegetables" are actually good for them! Take a read of
this: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/redearsliders.htm . Hope
this helps, Neale> |
|
Red Eared Pond Sliders Male Attacking Female
7/25/07
Dear Crew,
<Hiya! Darrel here>
We have had the male for 5 years and the Female for 3 years. The male had been
abused by his previous owner who allowed his dog to use him as a play toy, he
was completely white when we got him and he is healthy now. The problem is that
when we put him in with the female outside he attacks her. He has almost
completely removed her tail, today I had to physically separate them. If we put
them in the bath tub together he doesn't do this, it is only when they are in
the pond outside. Can you please help us they are wonderful pets and we would
hate to have to part with one of them but I am very scared that he is going to
do a lot more damage or maybe even kill her.
<That's a real possibility, Tammi. It sounds like you have a naturally
aggressive animal there.>
<When you take them out of their natural element and place them somewhere new,
their natural instincts for survival (combined with stress) override their
natural aggressive and territorial instincts. In the wild she'd have virtually
unlimited space to simply get away from him, so if your pond isn't big enough
for her to get away and stay away, you can either fence them off from each other
or find another home for him.>
Thanks Putzakitty
<I've been called MANY things, Tammi, but never Putzakitty. I'll have to think
about if I like it.>
Tammi
Red Ear Slider Turtle Question, beh.
7/22/07
Hello There,
<Ave.>
I have 2 Red Ear Slider babies Barbosa and Moe, One of them is about 1 inch and
a half (Barbosa) the other is right around 1 inch (Moe). The bigger one does not
seem to have a problem with people around the smaller one though will hide
behind the filter while You are in the room with it. The bigger one will
occasionally swim behind there as if to scope it out but little Moe looks like
He is gonna swim through the glass. Usually when You walk in the room they will
both be on the rock sunning underneath the UVA Lamp, they will take off into the
water and hide which I can understand.
<Completely normal. In the wild, baby terrapins are food for just about
everything, from bullfrogs to alligators. This is typical for the Chelonia
generally, which are pretty well predator-proof as adults, but their infant
mortality (for want of a better description) is staggeringly high.>
But Barbosa will come swim around while Your around, Moe will come out maybe 8
inches from the filter max and swim back like He is doing laps. I hate to say
but the skittish one was dropped from probably 3 feet onto concrete and My
Girlfriend and I are thinking this could be the cause of his fears of us.
<Possible. Animals do learn because they have to. If they didn't, they'd never
avoid danger.>
He does seem to be ok it happened 5 days ago, He swims fine and does eat. Moe
will not eat with people around but the bigger one Barbosa does not have a
problem eating in front of You. Is it just a personality difference?
<Likely, yes. Give it time. Train the animal to associate you with good things,
like (small) tasty treats. Habituation is also important. Animals love routines.
Ever noticed why sheep and cows walk away from a stranger but ignore the
thundering noise of high speed trains zipping past their fields? Anything that
happens regularly without causing danger is eventually accepted as "part of the
background" and stops being scary. What animals don't like is novelty. So if you
can locate the vivarium close by where you spend significant amounts of time,
you'll see a big difference in their behaviour. I have a Panaque catfish in a
tank next to my workspace. Panaque are generally described as nocturnal and very
shy. But mine swims about all day at the front of the tank. It does this because
it is used to me being in the same place day in, day out at the same time doing
the same things. As far as the catfish is concerned, I'm just scenery. So, see
if you can put the terrapins by the table where you eat or the sofa where you
watch TV or whatever. Someplace they can habituate to you.>
They seem to get along fine always sticking close.
<They're sociable animals when young. The more the merrier.>
I vary there diet I have the baby floating pellets I give them also give them
Blood Worms, Yet to get some freeze dried crickets also gonna throw some lettuce
in there to mix it up.
<Sounds good. Remember the key thing to keeping red-ears: the older they get,
the more plant food they should be eating. Adults are more or less herbivorous
in the wild except for the occasional day they luck out at find a dead fish or
some insect larvae. There are some good articles here at WWM about red-ear
diet.>
Can You also give Me some feedback on the setup we have? We have a 35 gallon
tank for the guys or gals about 1/4 to a 1/3 full, a 75 watt Halogen UVA Lamp
the water is filtered with a Ph around 7 or 8. Water Temp is about 72-76 Degrees
the basking area is 82 to 90 degrees.
<Given their size now, everything sounds fine. Obviously they'll need a bigger
tank once they mature, something around the 55 gallon size upwards. I found
siliconing glass plates close to the surface to create steps leading to flat
basking area worked better than building piles or rocks at one end because you
kept more swimming room. So do a little research on what their adult quarters
should look like, because there's a bit of art involves. The other thing is the
heater. When I kept terrapins I learned the hard way adult terrapins and glass
heaters do not mix. They smash them. So invest in some undertank heating if you
can, or at least a heater with a plastic guard or better yet a filter with a
built-in heater.>
They will be separated eventually when the time comes.
<Mine never needed separating. Males might squabble, but since they're easy to
sex (longer claws on the male) it's easy enough to pre-empt this once they reach
maturity.>
Thank You for all the helpful information Your website has, also any feedback is
greatly appreciated!
Thank You!,
Ryan
Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question, beh.
7/26/07
Hello Again,
<Hello Ryan,>
I had Emailed before regarding My 2 Red Ear Slider Babies, Your information was
very helpful and I have another question. Both Turtles seem to have brown in the
lines in-between there Shell Plates where is was once black or green. Is this a
sign of growth? I find it for both turtles to have it at the same time kind of
odd.
Thanks Again,
Ryan
<Hmm, not precisely sure what you mean, but all turtles develop obvious "growth
rings" on the shell plates as they grow. That's probably what you're seeing. If
you want to send a photo, we can double-check. Cheers, Neale.>
Turtle shell... shedding? – 6/19/07
Dear Crew
<Hi. Darrel here>
I have a baby turtle.
<Just guessing a Red Eared Slider?>
A tiny part of its shell looks like it shed a little bit.
There's just a tiny light brown spot now... is this from the turtle growing...
its shell expanding?
<As the shell grows, the outside edges of the individual scales (they're called
scutes) can turn a dirty sort of brownish/translucent -- like a dirty
fingernail. Is that what you mean?>
It's just a total guess...I'm just curious.
<It's hard for me to visualize what you're describing without more detail. I'd
be pleased if you write back with a more detailed description of what you're
seeing. Also ... is his shell hard? Is he eating and active?>
Thank you.
<You're welcome>
<Good Night, Irene>
Turtle growth – 06/13/07
How you guys doing over there?
<We guys and girls are doing just fine over here, David, thanks for asking>
As for me and my Read Eared Sliders, we are doing great! I was wondering
does it depend on how often I feed them, that's why my turtles shed or is it
that they grow that fast?
<What you feed them, how much you feed them and their normal temperature are
all conditions that affect growth, David. When they shed a semi-transparent
shell-like scute, that's a sign of normal growth as long as the shell
underneath looks healthy and normal>
My Turtles are about 3 inch from head to tail. The turtle shell is about 2
and a quarter inch. Is this a normal size for them going on about 3-4
months?
<That's actually pretty large for that age, David, I'd bet they are a bit
older than you thought - maybe even a year or even a year and a half old --
but they sound healthy, so you're being a good Turtle Dad. Just remember
that over feeding makes health problems for them, so when in doubt, just
feed less>
Thank You,
David
<You're welcome - Darrel>
Emergency! Turtle lost in pond
6/5/07
Hello,
<Hi>
I purchased 2 red-ear slider turtles, Their shell was about 6 inches. We put
them in our pond in backyard. They seemed to be fine for the first week.
They looked healthy and would bask on the rocks. Then after a week one was
missing. I searched my yard and couldn't find him. Then one late afternoon I
saw the turtle floating in the water. He was dead. Now the other turtle is
missing too. My question is, could he be trying to hibernate too early.
<I'm very sorry for your loss :( I doubt he's trying to hibernate, but it is
most likely too cold for him at this stage.>
I live in Long island, New York and the weather at night had been about 54
degrees for 3 nights. Before this disappearance, I noticed he wasn't going
in the water. He was always on the rock. I don't think he got loose. After
doing research, I'm beginning to think my pond was too cold for him.
<I agree, Sliders don't normally live that far north but they can survive
winters cold enough that the water freezes -- but there are two important
things: 1) Their instinct to hibernate comes on slowly with the season
changes and they have MONTHS of preparation in putting on fat stores, they
stop eating so that there's no undigested food in their stomach, etc. all in
preparation for winter -- this is quite different than an animal that's been
in pet store conditions and suddenly put into an outdoor situation. 2) And
this one is important for any future turtles you have .. not all Sliders
survive their winter hibernation.>
Maybe he thought it was hibernation time? The temperature in pond was about
68- 70 degrees most of the time.
<There could be many reasons, Annie. The lower temperatures would cause his
metabolism to slow down and slow or even stop his digestion. If he had food
in his stomach it can start to rot and become toxic to him. He could have
been sick right from the store. Is the pond 100% safe as far as them getting
caught in filters, pumps or under rocks until they suffocate? What about
wild animals like skunks or raccoons that got a hold of your little guy?>
Please respond soon- My pond is dark in water color so I can't see if he's
in there. If he is in hibernation would it be alright to wake him? Or is he
going to die, like I think the other one did.
<My suggestion is that you do whatever you can to find him, drag the bottom
of the pond with a net, search at night with flashlights and look for the
outline of his shell ... whatever you can ... and then bring him indoors
where it's easier to control with environment and easier to observe him.
Here is a link of quick care instructions:
http://www.xupstart.com/wwm/quickturtleguide/index.html
this document is just a start but it will get you and your turtle going.>
I feel so bad cause we should of did the research first. Today is second
day, that I haven't seen him.
<Our best wishes are with you and your Turtle, Annie>
Thank you for any help soon.
-Annie
Reservations about a Slider's travel? 5/23/07
I have searched your Q & A section and have not seen this question. We built
two small ponds last July and just recently noticed a very large RES has taken
up residence in them. She is about 11" to 12" long.
<wow, how neat is that?? And that is a respectable size for a slider, too.>
Our ponds are rubber lined, each about 400 gallons. She is living among our
small Koi quite nicely even though she does, seem to like nibbling on some of
our plants.
<Turtles with koi can be O.K. especially if the turtle is well fed. With time
she should be happy to feed on the same koi food as the fish get unless she's
already performing a service for you by eating worms and snails. And even in
the best case their ability to chase a fish is limited and they're almost
comical to watch. But with that said, wild things are wild things and a turtle
taking a nip out of a sick or weakened fish isn't unheard of.>
My question is how far do these turtles normally travel? We can't figure out
how she traveled so far. The nearest large pond is 1/3 of a mile from our house
through, wood fences, baseball fields and streets.
<they can travel great distances in search of a perfect pond and as often as
I've seen it, I've never learned what makes one pond better than another. But,
is it possible that someone saw your beautiful ponds and decided to make a late
night contribution?>
She is fun to watch sunning on the rocks. It seems she travels from one pond to
the other during the night, they are about 10' from each other. If she causes
to much damage to our plants we will have to relocate her. Do you think she
will return if we have to move her?
<probably not. They explore a lot but rarely show a homing instinct so if you
relocate her and she decided to leave that place, she'll as likely as not move
off in a new direction. But please .. if you DO decide to relocate her, please
take the time to make sure that the new location is suitable.>
Thanks, Lisa
<you are MOST welcome!>
My red ear sliders are shedding 5/20/07
I read somewhere if I over feed them that can lead to skin and shell
shedding is that true?
<Not exactly, David. Shell shedding is what naturally happens as the
turtle grows, but over feeding leads to obesity just like with people and
with that comes looking fat & pudgy and a whole host of internal health
problems.>
I notice that they can consume a good 10 pellets, this is for two turtles.
What is considered overfeeding them?
<David, this is a really good question. Over feeding & Over eating are the
among the top health problems in captive reptiles. Without having exact
size and weight on each animal we can't say that any arbitrary number of
pellets is good or bad. The rule of thumb I use is "all they can eat in
five minutes, three times a week." A rule of good health for turtles and
people is "leave them a little hungry." In the summer when it's hot, every
other day.>
.. Because what ever I throw in the tank whether its lettuce, pellets,
treats and even slice cooked meat they will eat it.
<yes, but lettuce and cooked meats aren't healthy for them. Many people
feel that lettuce is exactly like candy to humans -- very good tasting but
no nutrition at all. My advice is to stick to the koi pellets and limit the
amount they eat.>
Re: Red Eared Sliders shedding? 5/23/07
My Read Eared Sliders are still shedding I was wondering how long it takes them
to fully shed it all off cause that stuff looks nasty just hanging from their
neck
<David, Sliders don't shed very much skin and it usually comes off in very small
pieces that are hardly noticeable. If what you're seeing is a gray
mucky-looking stuff that hangs on for a long time, that may be dead skin mixed
with a bit of fungus. Make sure they're getting enough natural sunlight (not
filtered through any glass, clean water and a good diet. If it lingers for
another week I'd mix a tablespoon of salt into an inch of water in the bottom of
a 5 gallon bucket and place them in it, one at a time, for 15 minutes.>
Re: Red-Ear Slider Follow-up 5/23/07
Hello!
<Howdy!>
Thank you so much!
The Tetra feeding sticks worked beautifully!
<See? You caught me on a good day.>
Should I feed them once or twice daily?
<once daily -- actually about 6 times per week,. Remember, they have very
little to do except relax and eat, so they don't need a whole lot of
food. Overfeeding is a health problem for them>
Also you said to watch for bubbles around their nose, do you mean to make sure
they are breathing or something else
<It's a sign of respiratory problems and a fairly easy one to spot. Just
something to look for -- not worry about>
Thank you again
Samantha
<Back atcha>
Shedding Turtle Gets Brighter Colored Shell – 5/5/07
I just got a RES about a month ago I am sure he is an adult b/c of his size
about 4 1/2-5 in.
<If he is a male then this would be getting close. A female can get up to 12
inches.>
Well he eats every 2 days. I read you were only suppose to feed adults every few
days.
< Too much food that is high in protein will create a very thick hard shell that
is difficult for a turtle to expand as it grows.>
He also gets out of the water and basks during the day.
<This is what he is suppose to do to remain healthy.>
When I am not home and at night while I sleep I think he is shy :)
< As time goes on he will learn to recognize you and not be so skittish.>
Anyhow, I would like to know if there shell changing color is normal? He is
shedding as well his shell around the edge and some places on the top are
turning lite green
yellowish is this normal? Amanda
<When turtles shed the scutes on their shell, the old faded scute is
pretty dull and colorless. The new scute that is revealed is usually a brighter
color. Over time this will get dull until he sheds again.-Chuck>
Shedding Red Eared Slider – 04/29/07
Hey, I have a question about my red eared slider.
He seems to be constantly shedding his skin and am not sure if its
because he's constantly growing or if he's sick he has a place to get
out of the water and warm himself and get dry and he does if you have
any advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
< Young turtles grow rapidly under good conditions and shed often. As
turtles age their diet changes from a meaty diet to one with more
vegetable matter. This slows down the growth rate a little bit but
allows the shell to develop normally. Your turtle may be getting too
much protein, so vary the diet with some vegetable matter.-Chuck>
Turtle Age 4/23/07
Hey there. A coworker found a RES at work. I think it is a male turtle.
We are curious as to how old he is. His shell measures about 4" in length.
Also, his back legs seem to be shedding or peeling. Is this normal, or could he
have some type of skin condition? Thanks for a response. Pam
< RES's are normally found wild in many parts of the country. Assuming that the
turtle you found is wild and is a male it could be from three to five years old.
Turtles in the north grow slower than turtles in the south because the have a
shorter warm season to eat and grow.-Chuck>
Smallest Turtle In The Group With Problems 4/10/07
Hello. I have three RES turtles. I'm not sure of their ages, but I have had
them for about two years now. I would guess that they are about five years old.
Two of them love to bask. They bask all day long, only leaving their rock at
meal times and when the basking lamp is off. The other RES hardly ever basks. It
will lay its head up on the rock and sleep sometimes, but I rarely see it
actually fully out of the water. The other two seem to neglect it. They aren't
mean to it; however, the other two swim together and play together while the
little one is off by itself. Should I be concerned with their behaviors?
<I would separate the third turtle for awhile and see if he gets more active. If
he does then he is clearly not happy in the existing situation.>
When I first got the turtles, one was twice the size of the other two.
The other two were relatively the same size. They have been very healthy since I
got them and have been growing wonderfully. In the past three weeks, one of the
smaller turtles (the one who does bask) has been growing rapidly.
It is now the same size as my larger turtle. It is beginning the shedding
process and its shell looks as if it is caving in in sections. Is this normal?
< The turtles shell should be round and smooth. Irregularities in the shell are
usually caused by diet. As turtles grow they need more vegetable matter in their
diet and less protein. I would recommend an adult pelleted commercial turtle
food as a staple, supplemented with veggies such as kale and spinach.>
Also, today, I noticed a small brownish- red spot under its neck. It seems fine,
but the spot is a little abnormal, so I am concerned. Also, my smallest turtle
doesn't seem to be growing at all. It's half the size of the other two. Could
this be because it rarely basks? It eats normal, just as the other two. How
quickly should they grow? Thank you for all of your help,
Denise
< Turtles can grow at different rates depending on their sex. Male turtles don't
get as big as female turtles. If the smaller turtle is eating fine and seems
active then this may be the case. If it acts shy, doesn't eat, doesn't bask,
then I think you have a problem and the turtle needs his own set up for awhile.
Turtles should grow a couple inches a year in the first couple of years and then
start to slow down to about an inch a year. -Chuck>
Turtles always acting hungry/begging 3/29/07
Hi there!
Thanks so much for your incredibly informative website! It has really helped me
learn how to properly care for my two Red Ear Slider turtles. I've had them
about a year and a half and they are 3.5 inches long and 3 inches wide (they
were silver dollar size when I got them) they are now growing fast and shedding
skin. They are active swimmers and like to bask under the heat and UVA/UVB
lamps.
<Sounds like you have a great set up!>
I have a couple of questions though...
<Fire away.>
My turtles constantly want food!
<Normal for most people and animals.>
They are always begging when I come by the tank, swimming up to me and poking
their heads out of the water. I currently feed them once a day, a rounded
teaspoonful (approx. 50-60 pieces) of Nutrafin Max Turtle Gammarus medium
pellets which I pre-hydrate before feeding in a little water mixed with ReptoCal
supplement and they eat them up SO FAST!
<Sounds good, but be sure and augment the pellets with other foods, perhaps
alternating each day to get variety. Pellets one day, veggies the next,
earthworms the third, and so on. Besides being more fun for the turtles (or
terrapins as we call them here in the UK) variation prevents animals become
either addicted to just one food or else turned off by it all of a sudden.>
If I give them more, they eat more - no food ever goes uneaten.
<Suggesting their appetites are good, always a positive sign with reptiles.>
They gobble up earthworm and mealworm treats and try to swallow them whole as
snakes do.
<That's how reptiles eat -- they can't chew.>
I usually cut up the worms because I'm afraid the turtles will choke.
<Most animals can't choke; humans choke largely because of where the larynx is,
an evolutionary adaptation that provides a benefit (speech) at the cost of
greater risk of choking. But I digress...>
I've read on your site that overfeeding is bad and can lead to the turtles
growing faster than their shells.
<I'm not sure they grow faster than their shells, but it is certainly possible
for turtles to get insufficient calcium in their diet (or insufficient UV light)
and therefore develop improperly formed shells as they grow. Provided the diet
is rich in calcium as well as the other nutrients, I wouldn't worry too much.>
I don't want to feed too much or too little, so how much food and how often
should I be feeding?
<Tricky question because it depends on the nutritional value of the food being
used. The pellets should state on the packaging what amount to give per day.
Vegetables can be really be give at liberty, because they can't really
overindulge in them, since most of the plant material is water and indigestible
cellulose. What matters in the plants are vitamins and minerals. Meaty foods are
more serious. But I'd not give a turtle a bigger food item at one time than was
the size of its head. Not very scientific, but at least easy to estimate! It is
actually much easier to overfeed a turtle than underfeed it (just as with fish,
or for that matter humans).>
Also, I've read that older turtles need veggies such as spinach and kale in
their diets - but exactly how old is an "older turtle"? When should I introduce
the veggies? I would appreciate your advice.
<Indeed correct, as red-ears mature they become more herbivorous in the wild.
Presumably their size and bulk makes it less easy for them to catch prey.
Anyway, there's no harm in feeding some greens straightaway. If nothing else,
you'll be training your young turtles to accept a variety of foods. Greens also
provide essential vitamins as well as roughage, which prevents constipation, a
common problem with captive turtles. Be sure and use a variety of plants.
Dandelion leaves and round (not iceberg) lettuce are particularly good.
Obviously, thoroughly clean anything used to avoid pesticide residues. As
mentioned earlier, these can (perhaps should) be available 24/7 so that the
turtles can graze when they're feeling peckish.>
Thank you,
Gina
<Cheers, Neale>
Sitting Turtle - 03/20/07
I have 4 sliders in one tank and recently my oldest one is no longer
active and just sits on the bottom of the tank. Also has a white spot on
his nose, other than that appears to be in good health. I don't know
what to do, my other turtles show no sign of illness but don't seem to
be eating as much as they do normally. I changed the water and filter
with new and also checked the water temp. enclosed is a picture of my
sick turtle. Thanks, Robert
< A turtle's activity is somewhat based on the surrounding temperatures.
Increase the temp. of the basking site and see if it makes any
difference.-Chuck.> |
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Turtles Acting Strange - 03/20/07
OK, I think I got some good info from you guys but still feel like I need to
be sure here.
I have two RES. We found them in our driveway about two days after a big rain
about a year ago. They were so small, about the size of a quarter.
They are growing well and doing fine together but recently they started what I
read as some sort of mating thing. Tucking their heads in a bit and extending
their front legs out, flapping them at each other's face. Both of them are
doing it and they have been swimming all over, like they were racing or
something. I cooled the water some but it still continues and has been for
about four days now. If they are trying to mate now what do I do?
< Sounds like you have a couple of young males that are trying to express their
dominance. Probably still too young to mate and just going through the motions.>
And when do they actually start doing this?
< The actual mating is usually reserved until they get up to about 4 inches.
They must be well cared for and feel like they have gotten "spring
fever".-Chuck>
I mean, they are only about a year old, maybe 14 months.
Thanks ahead of time for your help because I am completely lost here.
Female Turtle Biting Off Male Turtle's Nails – 2/25/07
Hi! I have 2 RES who are 3.5 yrs old and have always lived together
happily. One is a male with .5 inch long nails and considerably smaller then
the other one. Recently I noticed that the little guys was missing a nail and
his hand looked a little pink. Tonight i noticed another missing from the other
hand so I decided to take a good look at him. During his mating dance the
female took a snap at him and took off another nail! My little guy doesn't seem
to be in any pain and there is no blood etc. My questions are:
1. Is this normal?
2. Is there anything I should be doing to treat the missing nail.
Your help is much appreciated!
< These are just a few of the problems people have when they keep more than one
turtle together. The male wants to mate and his showing off to the female. In
nature she would just swim away. Unfortunately in an enclosed space like an
aquarium she has nowhere to go so she tries to discourage him by biting at him.
The nails may grow back. Keep the water clean so they don't get infected. Add a
Dr. Turtle Sulpha Block by ZooMed to inhibit any bacterial grow.-Chuck>
Aggressive Female RES – 2/25/07
For the past several years I've owned two red-eared sliders. I believe
from what I've read one is female and one is male. In the past, the female
tended to be a bully, but on the whole they coexisted nicely in the same 50
gallon tank for years until now. I just noticed what I thought to be a sore on
the foot of the male. I attempted to brush it, thinking it was fungus or such,
however it started to bleed and I realized that it was a healing wound. When I
returned them to their tank I watched for a while and noticed the female
attacking the male, particularly the healing wound area and the other foot.
She was actually attacking the foot of the male. Why all of a sudden?
< Could be pregnant.>
Is she suffering from PMS?
< It is getting to be spring in some parts of the country. A pregnant female
turtle doesn't want anyone around when she lays her eggs.>
Do I have to keep them separated all of a sudden? Which will be a problem
due to space limitations. Thank you. Trish
<Get a tank divider but supply a basking site for the male too. Try putting them
back together in a couple of months. Sometimes the female like her space and
will continue to harass the other turtle.-Chuck>
Turtle Not Acting Normal - 02/11/2007
Hello all, I've been reading your site for a few hours now and I still can't
find what I'm looking for.
< Thanks for trying.>
My Red Eared Slider, Manny, was 'rescued' from Chinatown, NY on Christmas about
a month and a half ago. Everything was going fine, he was eating well (not too
much, a few pellets and some freeze dried shrimp once a day), and basking a good
deal. Things changed, however. Manny stopped eating about a week ago. He
stopped basking about 4 days ago. I have a 5 gallon tank for now (I plan to get
another temporary 30 gallon tank when he grows a little more and becomes a
stronger swimmer). I keep his water at between 80 and 85 degrees and his
basking site between 85 and 90 degrees. I clean his tank once every 1 or two
weeks. I forced him to bask (placed him in a container with no water under the
basking light) for a few hours yesterday. Today I took him to the vet today and
he gave him a shot of vitamins but he's still not eating or basking. I read
somewhere on your site when they are sick to turn the water temp down to 70,
which I did, but now he's still staying in that 70 degree water and not coming
out to bask and I feel bad chilling the poor guy. I only noticed yesterday that
he was breathing with his mouth opened when I went to feed him (I feed in a
separate tank). He's mouth breathing today too. There is no discharge or
anything seeming wrong with his nose. The vet said he looked healthy-a good
color and there was no chipping cracking or peeling on his shell. I was just
wondering if there's anything you could add to clarify poor Manny's situation.
Thanks so much for your time and help, -Jill
<This is a difficult situation. None of the symptoms you have mentioned really
stand out as anything in particular but lets cover the basics. The tank set up
sounds good. I recommend that the tanks water temp always be set at 70 F. The
temp change between the basking site and the cooler water make it difficult for
pathogens to survive. The open mouth breathing could be a respiratory infection
but that usually is seen with a nasal discharge and the turtle's inability to
sink while swimming. Many times these rescue turtle are starved nearly to death.
The rescuer tries to put weight back on the poor turtle and they get over fed.
The food rots in their gut and the gas and bloat expand the digestive system and
starts to displace the other vital organs like the lungs. Turtles are trapped in
a shell and cannot expand their waistband when they eat too much. Turtles die
from being overfed. I think you have done all you can for now. Keep the water
clean and don't try to feed him again until he gets more active and acts like he
is hungry.-Chuck>
Turtle Wants In The Water 2/2/07
Hi. I read thru the FAQ but didn't see an answer to my concern. We got a
red slider (slagmar) for Christmas for our pond...it has a basking rock that we
are pretty sure he can get on and it has a beach area that we are certain he can
get to. We are in AZ and was told that he would be fine in the pond but the
temp dropped recently (30 at night / 60 in the day). Well, slagmar seemed to
stay under water forever in one spot and when we put him on the basking rock he
jumps right back into the water. We have also placed him on the beach area
(tail facing water) and he goes as fast as he can right back into the water. We
broke down and brought Slagmar indoors into our 10 gallon tank (threw the little
goldfish into the pond) and he is now swimming around and as happy as can
be. We would like to put him back into the pond when it warms up, hopefully in
a week or two but are concerned that Slagmar will go back to just sitting in one
area at the bottom of the pond. Do you think he will be fine once the weather
warms up or should we just break down and purchase a larger tank and keep him
indoors? Thanks for your help! Kathy
< Winter is a poor time of year to start a turtle outdoors. Keep him indoors for
a few months and when the weather warms up he can be placed outdoors and kept
year round.-Chuck>
Little Turtles Not Moving 1/23/07
Hello, I was wondering if you could answer my questions. I believe that my
baby red ear sliders are either sick or malnourished. I have had them for about
a month now and they have been pretty active, and now all they do is sit under
that basking lamp all day. They are in a ten gallon aquarium with two pumps and
a basking area with a UVA bulb that gets about 90 or so degrees. I have gravel
and some big stones so they can relax in the water. There basking area is
completely out of the water it’s like a turtle tree house. I also have a heater
and change the water at least once every two weeks with a nice rinse of each
filter. I also bought them bait fish. I take them outside at least for 2 hours a
day if not more and they just are not staying active. I have not seen them eat
in about 4 days and all the fish are still there. They refuse to dive and one
sleeps upside down in the water belly up. Their shells are also really soft and
when you put a little pressure on the outside
of the shell it will bend. It is almost like bending leather yet it is still
supportive. They are only babies so I was wondering if there was something
wrong. They both also have a brown spot on their head, it’s like a discoloration
or it could be normal I’m not sure. I use a sulfa block in the water and the
brown spot was not there when I got the turtles. Thank you so much! Kyle
<Your little turtles are overfed on the wrong food. Little turtles need a varied
diet of insects, fish, worms and vegetable matter. You have let them stuff
themselves on bait fish. Bait fish have almost no nutritional value. These fish
are barely maintained to stay alive. When you let the turtles eat the fish at
will, they overate, and now the fish in their gut has started to rot causing gas
and all kinds of intestinal problems. Stop feeding the turtles. Remove all food
items from the tank. Allow them to bask and heat themselves up. Turtles die from
being overfed. Hopefully the heat can generate enough digestive enzymes to move
the rotting food through the turtles digestive tract. If your turtle do survive
and act hungry, feed them three times a week. Feed them pellets made especially
for baby turtles. Watch them eat. When they start to slow down they are getting
full and should not be fed any more and the remaining food removed from the
tank.-Chuck>
Unhappy Turtle 1/19/07
Hello,
<Hi Michelle, Pufferpunk here>
I just got a RES and spent numerous hours researching to make sure I provide him
a proper environment. I have noticed that he seems to spend much of the day
rapidly swimming against the edges of the tank. Is this normal, is he just
following a reflection or is he in distress??? Thank you for your time and any
response would be greatly appreciated!!
<It could be a few things: Tank is too small. Toxins in the water (are you using
dechlorinator?). Water too cold/hot. Does it have any land to rest/bask
on? Could just be adjusting to his new surroundings... Check out this site for
more turtle info:
http://www.turtletimes.com/ ~PP>
~~~Michelle E. Olson~~~
Weird Turtle Dance - 1/18/07
Okay so I have a Red Eared Slider and he is about 6 years old. I adopted
him about two years ago, he was living in really poor conditions with his
previous owner and now he is doing extremely better with the exception of his
shell being turned up, damage he will never recover from.
< Over time he shell may eventually flatten out during molts.>
I recently took him to the vet just for a check up because he was constantly on
basking spot, seemed very lethargic and was not really eating, but it was
chalked up to being the season for this sort of behaviour. It was a week ago
that he went to the vet and now he has done a complete 180 and is so obnoxious
wanting attention all the time and never going on his dry spot except to dive
off and splash. I let him out to roam around a lot, he seems to enjoy it but
the last week when ever I do he tends to gravitate to our hardwood floor area
and he does this l call it "weird" dance. The best way to describe it is he
has his back legs sprawled out so he would be balancing on his knee area and
completely raises his front off the ground and goes into a trance mode and
wiggles around. You can't distract him from it and it's almost automatic for
him to go to that same area and start doing that same little dance whenever he
is out. Any ideas as to what is going on? Steph*
< On land, turtles tend to gravitate toward the safety of the water. I suspect
that your hardwood floors are very shiny and the turtle may be confused that the
shiny floor may be the reflection of water. Once on the floor I have no idea
what is going on and can only guess. The floor may be very cold and he is trying
to suspend his body off the cold substrate so he will not lose any body
heat.-Chuck>
Little Turtle Sunning Himself All The Time
Hi, I have had a res since about October. He used to be energetic and swim
and run off his log where he suns when someone would come into the room. Now he
won't eat, just suns himself all the time, he also has diarrhea, and I have
noticed the bottom of his shell is soft but the top is fine. He doesn't want to
swim or do anything he just stays up and suns him. I know his water is warm
because we put in a heater at about 78 degrees and he lives in a 10 gallon tank.
We feed him ReptoMin with vitamin and calcium in it and romaine lettuce. We
don't know what's wrong or what we should do. Thanks
AO
<Check the temperature of the basking site . It should be at least 85 F. Stop
feeding him. If he is not eating then the food is just polluting his tank. When
he does start to move you should only feed him three times per week. Watch him
eat and stop feeding him when his eating slows down. He is full and does not
need to be stuffed. Your turtle may already be "Too" full and needs time and
heat to digest his food. Especially if he is not warm enough. Many little
turtles die from being overfed. The food rots in their gut causing some of the
problems you are describing.-Chuck>
Turtle Won't Bask
Hello, I have a very important question. My red ear slider turtle is about 4
months old I guess (shell is about 5 inches long, maybe that helps for age
determination)
<He is much older than 4 months.>
, Since I have had him, he never wanted to bask. I have a 55 gallon long tank,
usually filled about half way, with a landing pad from pet
smart (can be seen here : http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/products/detail/standard/March04/5974_36757.jpg).
The only times he has gone up there is when I lured him up there with some food.
But then he took the food and dove back in the water.
He never wants to sit up there. What can I do? Thanks in advance.-Joe Garite II
< Basking helps the turtle develop vitamins needed for good growth. The heat
from the lamp helps him digest his food. Check the temperature of the basking
spot with a thermometer. It should be at least 85 F. If it is too cold then get
a bigger light or move the existing one closer.-Chuck>
Turtle Getting Lighter
Hola...I have 2 baby RES... I got them about a month and a half ago.
They're in a 10 gallon tank with a filter, heater and basking spot.
One of them seems to have been getting lighter and lighter in color as
the weeks go by. They were both originally the same color. I could
barely tell them apart at first besides looking at their size and shell
pattern. As the weeks have gone by, one seems to be getting lighter in
the shell and on its skin.
He is healthy as far as behavior goes He goes out to bask in the sun
often, he is the more aggressive turtle and very social with people.
These are my first turtles so I don't know if it's because of shedding,
rot or if it's just normal. Help pleeeeease.
< If it was something your were doing or environmental factors then I
think it would be affecting both of them. At this point I would just
assume that it is genetics unless you observe anything abnormal.-Chuck>
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Female Turtle Very Active - 09/13/06
Hi there, I have two red eared slider turtles, a male and a
female. Lately the female (the larger of the two) has been acting
strange and, every time I walk into the room that the tank is in,
she starts splashing around with her legs really aggressively and
make water go everywhere. I thought the problem might be because
she's hungry and excited that I'm there too feed her, but even when
I've fed her heaps she'll do it continually, so I'm out of ideas and
I was wondering if you could help me out, thanks!
< A number of things could be going on here and we will address them
one at a time. Older turtles need more vegetable matter in their
diet. Try adding some greens like spinach and kale. The additional
fiber will make her fuller, longer and she will not seem as hungry.
As fall approaches the days are shorter and winter will not be too
far behind. Many turtles use this time to fatten up before
hibernation so they can survive a long winter on stored fat. Lastly,
she could be pregnant and wants out or a dry sandy spot so she can
lay her eggs.-Chuck>
Was: Female Turtle Very Active, Now: Pregnant RES Turtle -
09/14/06
Hi there. Thanks for replying so quickly! My turtle is only 3
years old so she probably is pregnant due to the circumstances (she
also has vitamins and things in her food) and I was wondering if you
knew of any other characteristics and signs turtles show when they
are pregnant and if she is pregnant how do I set up the tank??
thanks again!!
< We got a couple of questions similar to yours this week. I
consulted with a real turtle expert and he seems to think that the
females may be gravid with eggs and are indeed looking for a place
to lay them. Turtles lay their eggs in soft sand. The female
excavates a shallow 4-6 inch hole and lays her eggs. They are then
covered up and the female has nothing more to so with them. You will
find a few websites with very detailed information on setting up and
hatching turtle eggs.-Chuck>
Turtle May Be Wanting to Lay Eggs 9/9/06
I have two Red Ear Sliders. One male and one female. They are in a 40
gallon tank with 20 gallons of water. There is a platform for basking with
a heat lamp. The last few days the female has been trying to climb out of
the tank. I feel that there is plenty of room for both turtles. Do you
think she is trying to find a sandy area to lay eggs??
< The male could be harassing her wanting to breed or she could be looking
for a place to lay eggs. Usually they lay their eggs in the late spring, but
they are known to lay eggs during almost any month it is warm. After a while
she will lay her eggs in the water and the turtles will eat them. If you
really want to breed them then you will need to provide a sandy are for her
to lay her eggs. Then incubate them for a few months .-Chuck>
Turtle Growth Rates 8/8/06
I have read various articles on the internet about red ear sliders (RES) and
I know that they grow quickly, but I haven't been able to find out how
quickly. I understand that it depends somewhat on their care. I am looking
into getting a RES for the first time and I would like to know how quickly I
should expect them to grow. I am looking at getting a 40 or 60 gal. aquarium to
start, but I would like some idea about how long those tanks
will be big enough. I am looking to start with a turtle that is about 4 inches.
Thanks, Troy
< Turtle growth rates as you know depend on a few factors. Males stay smaller
than females. A very large old female may get up to 12 inches over many years.
Males may get up to 8 inches but that would be pretty rare. When turtles are
small they eat a lot of meat. This protein promotes an very quick growth rate.
Older turtles like yours actually change their diet to a more vegetarian one.
Vegetables have less protein than meat so they don't grow as fast. Turtles kept
outside in the southern portion of the U.S. are growing year round while others
kept outside in the north hibernates in the winter and don't grow at all during
that time. A 40 to 60 gallon tank would probably keep your turtle going until
it got to be about 8 inches. Under normal conditions this would probably take
another 5 to 10 years if it is a female.-Chuck>
Turtles Getting Older 7/28/06
Hello. I like your site.
<Thanks>
A family I knew was a typical "turtles are cute let's get turtles" family and
they ended up giving their pair of red-eared sliders to me. Well I wanted to be
responsible so I read up on care, bought a bigger tank (twice now), and have
tried to give them a reasonably good home. They seem happy, except for the
occasional bullying. They act like they are well acclimated to my home, I've
never noticed any health issues (spots, mucus, etc that would be obvious
concerns). They swim around a lot, they bask, they shed, they are growing so
much every time I have guests they say they are huge. I think they are about 3
or 4 now. One is about 6 inches long and the other is
about 4. Both lower shells are flat and I see no difference in tails or claws,
so I figure they must be the same sex, aside from the whole size thing.
I had thought they were both female until suddenly the big one had a wound on
the neck so I separated them. Since I only have one light and one filter, I put
the other one back in under supervision so he can not be too deprived and they
both started fluttering their front claws at each other (so now they are both
males?). Is there any chance that a female will do the dance as well or because
I saw both of them doing it at the same time, is that proof-positive that they
are both males?
< This fluttering is usually associated with males but I guess females could do
this too.>
I don't want to see either of them get hurt or have a bad home. I live alone so
I enjoy having the company. They beg for food when I come home from work, which
is fun at first but they will do it for hours (I put a blanket up in front of
the tank if it bothers me). They like to watch TV and they have distinct
personalities. I've seen the big one trying to bite the tank wall before
(presumably trying to attack his own reflection) but he gives up after a short
time and it seems no harm is done. It's amusing to say the least. He also
learned to eat from my hand and now won't leave my hands alone whenever I have
to put my hands into the tank to do maintenance on the
filter (also amusing - I know it's my fault for playing around with teaching
them to eat out of my hands, so I don't blame him for it).
Any way, I doubt I can keep up two separate tanks for the next 40 years, any
tips on how someone who lives in a very rural area can find a good home for a
turtle?
< Give to a pet shop, place an add in the paper, county animal rescue or even a
school.>
I think the littler one lost the battle for dominance and is now afflicted with
a sort of "short man's syndrome" and has become more
aggressive. The big one is bolder but gentle with humans and likes to explore
but the littler one will bite people, although not hard enough to hurt anyone, I
worry about children and won't let them touch him, much to their disappointment
(and no worries, I insist on thorough hand washing if any kids do get near the
turtles).
Another question, is it important to feed them a varied diet? It's not very easy
to get specialized pet food in my area because mostly we just have your typical
cats, dogs, birds, goldfish, and farm animals. They've had a diet of Wardley
reptile premium sticks since I got them. I tried feeding them some kind of
lettuce-like green early on after I got them, but they acted like they couldn't
tell that it was edible. This year I fed them some cherries that I tore into
little pieces and they were noticeably more enthusiastic for them than they are
for their normal food, so I am thinking I'll do that again. I'm not sure if I
can do worms and bugs, though. If I don't vary their diet am I going to have to
find homes for both of them instead of just one?
< Try earthworms, insects , kale and spinach. They will try them and eventually
learn to eat them.-Chuck>
Sorry for the length and thanks for your enthusiasm for water-loving creatures.
Heather
Found A New Turtle 7/28/06
Hi there! I stumbled on this site today & it’s GREAT!
My teen daughter found a small RES (about 2-2.5”) this afternoon in the middle
of our street. There’s no water in the immediate area, so I’m thinking he was
abandoned by a neighborhood kid.
First – he seems very scared of people – normal at such a young age? How much
handling should he be getting?
< Small turtles are very wary of everything that may potentially eat them. Small
turtles can inflict a painful bite and may carry diseases. I would recommend
that if you plan on keeping him that you let him get use to his new home before
you begin to handle him. wash your hands every time you pick him up.>
Second – I set up a temporary home using a large Tupperware container (about a
foot high) with a large baking dish full of water sunk down in a few inches of
dirt / pebbles. There is a large rock that allows him to climb easily in / out
of the water & he likes the cave created underwater. This arrangement seems to
work for now because of his size, but I cannot afford a filter for the water for
a little while. I do plan on changing the water daily (I used bottled water and
make sure the temp is right) – will the lack of a filter / aeration device cause
a problem for a few weeks if the water is kept clean?
< Daily water changes will be fine. feed him first and this will make him
defecate . Then clean the tank.>
I live in central FL & plan on keeping this habitat in the shade on the front
porch - moving it a bit to receive partial direct sun for a bit each late
afternoon – but I’m not sure how hot a hatchling can tolerate. It gets in the
mid 90’s lately. Do I just make sure the water temp stays cool (75 –
80)?Appreciate all your help – this site has already helped greatly! T.
< Put a board over some of the tank to prevent full exposure to the sun for
extended periods. They can handle water in the mid 80's for awhile but they
really need to cool down too.-Chuck>
Is my red eared slider lonely ... Nope . Is your English bunk? Yep &n |