Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question... seasonal care...  9/13/07
Hi Neale,
Now that the days are getting cooler and shorter around here should i do anything different for my Terrapins? Do they need to hybernate will it benefit there life in the long run? I do have a hood over there enclosure to reduce the drafts. Is there anything else I can do for them?
Thank you very much again!
<Hello again. Are these red-ear sliders indoors or out? If outdoors, they certainly shouldn't be kept outside once the ambient temperature drops much below 18 Celsius. These are, after all, subtropical animals. Yes, they have become established far outside their range (e.g., in Southern England) but their mortality under such conditions is much higher than is acceptable to us as pet owners. So if it is getting cold, then it's time to bring them in and install them in a basic vivarium for the winter months. They don't really hibernate as such, though they may enter a state of torpor when very cold. Regardless, hibernating tortoises and turtles generally is not easy, and requires careful fattening up and then placement of the sleepy reptile in a suitable draught-proof, snug nest away from potential predators such as cats and rats (a box filled with shredded paper or straw is typical). If your red-ears are indoors, simply maintaining the water at around 25 C should provide enough heat and humidity inside the vivarium to keep your terrapins happy. Hope this helps, Neale.>

Red Ear Slider   9/12/07
Hello! I am writing about my red ear sliders again. I have 2- they are about 6 months old and I have a typical set-up with a filter, basking rock and lamp, and a water heater and some fake plants. I have had one of the turtles since about May and he has been healthy and active for the most part- but he has stopped eating. I noticed about 3 weeks ago it seemed like he was having problems breathing and his body would jolt out of its shell every few seconds. I started cleaning the tank more often and it seemed to help him because it went away in a few days. Then a week later he stopped eating and is always basking (which I believe is because he is trying to fight whatever sickness he has) and is not very active. It has seriously been about 3 weeks since he has eaten- how can he survive that long?
<Chelonians -- turtles, terrapins, and tortoises -- take a long time to die. They take a long time to do most things! But seriously, let's review. What sort of basking lamp do you have? Is it the UVB type? That's essential for vitamin synthesis, and without it, they gradually weaken. Secondly, are you adding vitamins to their food? Again, this is a long term issue, but an essential one. It's also very easy to feed the wrong things (pellets, meat) to these fish instead of the right things (plants) and end up with constipated, sickly, vitamin-deficient pets.>
I did have live plants in the aquarium for a while and he really liked those but I took them out because it was really messy. Could he have gotten use to feeding off the plants?
<Perhaps, but the main thing is these turtles are plant eaters, and need to eat plants. This is non-negotiable. Whether you add live plants like Elodea or chopped greens of the right sort (dandelions, curly leaf lettuce, Sushi Nori, small bits of soft fruit, etc.) doesn't matter. But they must have some access to plant matter every day. As they get older, this becomes EVEN more important, because the adults are basically herbivorous.>
I had a another companion for him when I first got him that was born with many deformities and unfortunately did not make it longer than 2 months, and this turtle (Crazy Feet) is acting the same as the other did before it passed away, except he only lasted about 1 week without eating.
<Ah, a pattern. Please go back and check you're doing all the right things. Missing just one key step can be fatal in the long run. There are plenty of articles bout these animals at WWM; read, review, and ask questions.>
The pet shop suggested that I get a water heater because it's getting colder here (I'm in Southern California) which I did about a week ago and I am keeping the water temp at 85.
<A bit too warm for them. Aim for 25 C (77 F). They're subtropical animals really. On the other hand, they are sensitive to cold conditions too, so don't let it get below 18 C (64 F).>
They also suggested guppies but local pet shops have been out of them.
<OK, stop listening to this pet store. Red-ear terrapins do not need to eat fish, and it isn't good for them either. Live fish are a potential source of parasites and bacterial infections as well. So, stick with what they eat in the wild: green foods, invertebrates, green foods, green foods, and green foods. Use prepared pellets once or twice a week, but no more often than that because they are too dry and cause constipation. And before you say, "but they're sold as reptile food" well hamburgers and French fries are sold as human food but no-one defends the idea that they're good for us (except maybe the marketing departments of fast food chains).>
I feed them Reptomin and dried shrimp.
<Stop doing this except as a treat. It's green foods they need. GREEN FOODS!>
I am very concerned he is going to go soon, please help with any suggestions!
Thank you,
Samantha
<Good luck, Neale>

Red worm looking things in turtle/fish tank   9/12/07
Hello Crew,
<Hiya Lauren -- Darrel here at my desk in Honolulu today>
I was wondering what these things are. I found them in my filter when I went to clean it out. They are inside, and I feed them Krill. Could it be baby krill??? I fed them some shrimp a couple times but other than that it's been regular turtle food.
<Krill & shrimp require a very different environment to hatch, so no it's not that.>
If you want me to send you a picture of them I will. I have 2 Red Eared Sliders, and 2 Eastern Painted Turtles.
<What you have are one of a whole family or worms and/or Planaria and they are exactly what you see -- little worms. They're parasites and can get into a closed tank system in many ways. Your solution is to break down the tank and then clean and sterilize everything -- pay close attention to the filter and the filter lines & hoses. And you may have to do this several times, since the turtles have undoubtedly ingested some of them (or the food they road in on). In other words, worm eggs are probably in the pipeline (so to speak).>
<the good news is that they're just a maintenance hassle and not really dangerous to your animals>
I just recently added a goldfish, but these wormy looking things were there before I got the goldfish.
<fish are common transmitters of parasites too (Not that Goldie is our source) but speaking of sources, she might be a source of dinner for your turtles. There are a number of reasons not to feed them goldfish -- not the least of which is that the turtles are not very good at that kind of hunting and the goldfish can live & thrive until one day you have these HUGE goldfish that were supposed to be dinner and now have names and they're too big for the turtle pond so you put them in your Koi pond only to find that they're so pushy that they're bossing around and terrorizing your 10 pound Koi!>
<well OK, just because that happened to ME doesn't mean it will happen to you ... but ya never know...>
Thanks,
Lauren

Re: Red worm looking things in turtle/fish tank – 09/13/07
Haha wow thanks so much! I've cleaned it out already and I'll keep an eye out. If I have anymore questions I'll be sure and ask on here, if I can't find an answer from google.
<By "find an answer from Google" we certainly hope you mean the Google Search Bar at the bottom of our WetWebMedia Page after having checked the "WetWebMedia" box, correct? Not Google "in general", right? The web "in general" is a great place to buy a pair of socks or find out who thinks that aliens from the planet Zordo have landed, but when it comes to things wet & living, please start here! Not only do we know what we're doing, but the site gets better with every question asked and answered!>
Take Care,
Lauren
<Darrel>

RES young, sys.  – 08/26/07
Dear WWM Crew,
<Hiya Allison - Darrel here>
I have recently purchased two baby red ear sliders, and they have been with me for three days by now.
<Some of the funniest little creatures ever!>
I have purchased a 12'' x 6'' x 8'' aquarium, and a 75 watt ZooMed UVA basking light for them. There are rocks in the aquarium on which them can be completely dry and bask. I have not yet purchased a heating system (as Northern California does not get very cold in the fall). I would normally turn on the basking light for about 4-5 hours per day.
<The basking light is their "sun" Allison. They should have it on from 7am to 7pm this time of year and only slightly less as winter comes>
I noticed that one of my turtle (which I believe to be the female) is reluctant to go into water. She stays and sleeps on the rock most of the time ( if you place her in the water, she'll simply climb back onto the rocks). I believe she has not been eating either. Frankly I am quite worried about her, could she be sick?
<Yes, that is a possibility -or- she may not be acclimating as fast as the others -or- she could be just sensitive to the lack of heat>
The other turtle seems to be doing just fine, swimming and eating regularly.
<Excellent>
I have read the Q&A's on your website, and I have the following questions.
1) Should I purchase a UVB lamp?
<Eventually, yes, but that's not your problem right now. Red Eared Sliders are TERRIBLY forgiving in terms of environment and can grow up well and healthy even in less-than-perfect situations. I'll give you a link with more detail>
2) Should I increase their hours of basking?
<Yes, to at least 12 hours a day in summer and 9 hours a day in winter>
3) A friend of mine suggested that the inactiveness of the female might be due to low water temperature. Should I purchase a heating mat to keep the water warm at all times?
<My answer here runs from no ... to NO!!!! Unless you live in an igloo, almost any temperature in your house that YOU are willing to live in is also fine for them -- remember, they have a basking lamp that gives them an 85 to 95 degree place to bask. As long as the water is at least 70 degrees, let them have the choice.>
<If you think that little Bessie is too cold (if you can believe she's a girl, then I get to call her by a girl's name until you tell me otherwise) you can give her warm baths ever few days. By warm, I mean water no warmer than 82 degrees, about a half inch deep ... to let her hydrate and just soak for 15 minutes or so. Sometimes that will kick-start their metabolism.>
<More important to me .... is she awake? Eyes open and clear -- or closed -- or weepy? If you take her out of her tank and place her on the ground outside, does she seem alert and make an effort to move -- or just sit there with her eyes closed? Her behavior may tell us more than we have now. Here's a link for you:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
Hope it helps?>
Thanks.
Allison
<You're very welcome!>

Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question, sys., hlth.  – 08/26/07
Hi Neale,
I had another question about our Red Ear Slider Turtles, They are doing really well. I still need to get them a UVB light for them but money is tight. There was just one thing about there shell, I don't know if it is because they are growing but it seems almost as if the shell has a sandpaper type feel to it as to before it was smooth. That is it for now.
Thank You,
Ryan
<Hello Ryan. Glad the turtles (or terrapins, as we say here in the UK) are doing well. Yes, a UVB light *is* essential, and not something you can skimp on for too long. So while I appreciate economy, sometimes it's easier to spend a little up front than have to deal with the expensive problems of a sick turtle down the road. Now, as for shell texture. This can mean a variety of things. Healthy shell should buff dry and smooth when you wipe it with kitchen roll, so that it feels like fingernail to the touch. If the shell doesn't feel like that, you have a problem. Shell-rot is one problem, caused by bacteria and/or fungi. It's essentially identical to finrot on fishes, being caused by poor water quality and/or physical trauma. Treatment is similar too, using antibacterial or antibiotic medications. Shell-rot is usually associated with cracks, scratches, sores, smelly pus, etc. Left untreated, just like finrot, it can turn into septicaemia. Another common problem is "soft shell". The shell will feel pitted, as if it is dissolving away, and in places the shell will feel softer than in others. The two factors behind soft shell are UVB and calcium: your turtle needs both. The lamp provides the one, the diet the other. I hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question – 08/26/07
Hi Neale,
Going to go pick up a UVB light first thing tomorrow morning, I just have some questions. If I get a UVB light will I have to have an open top? Will the glass filter the UVB? Also the new growth on the turtles is smooth like a fingernail, it is the old stuff that has the sandpaper texture could it be the UVB not getting to them before when they were younger? They do not have any scratches, cracks, sores or smelly pus. So I think we are ok there.
Thanks,
Ryan
<Hello again Ryan! Yes, glass cuts out UV light, so the lamp needs to go under the hood, if you have one. Realistically, terrapins aren't that good at climbing, so assuming the vivarium is reasonably deep, you probably don't need a hood during the day. Put the hood back on at night to keep them warm. As for the shell, provided the new growth is sound, then the texture of the old growth is relatively unimportant. Old shell plates flake away eventually. I suspect you are on the money about the UVB being an issue with shell growth; problems with diet (calcium) and UVB are at the root of most problems people have with terrapins. Good luck, Neale.>

Overheating turtles – 07/08/07
Dear Crew,
<Hi there, Darrel here>
I obtained a 1" Red Eared Slider about a month ago. It began eating within 2 days and basked regularly. It was aggressive and swam evenly. It has been eating a diet of ReptoTreat shrimp and zoo med turtle food along with some live aquarium plants. The aquarium is kept at 85 deg. air temp and 80-85 deg. water temp.
<The air is fine -- the water is WAAAAAAAAY too hot!!!!! The water should be, at most, 73 degrees -- and 70 would be better.>
I use a 100 watt basking bulb.
<That's a bright bulb, but if it's far enough away that the air temp is 85-90 degrees, then it's OK. Again, the water is WAY too hot. Please fix that right away>
About 3 days ago I noticed the Slider began to flip on it's back quite a bit. I later noticed it began having trouble swimming straight, constantly spinning in circles. It now turns it's outstretched neck to one side and opens and closes it's mouth. I have checked the turtle closely and have found no physical signs of disease. It still basks regularly and eats regularly. An uneducated guesser might think it had a turtle stroke. I researched these symptoms on the internet and have found nothing similar.
<The behaviors you describe are odd, to be sure, but I suspect it's more of a metabolic issue. Correct the water temperature issue, cut back on the feedings to a few days a week for a while. Keep a close eye on him when you lower the water temperature (do that RIGHT away .. I mean it!) and see that he acclimates and still basks.>
Lorie
<Please review your care conditions against the recommendations in the following line -- and get back to us in a week, OK? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
<Darrel>

Turtle time is right now - 06/27/07
Hello everyone,
<Hi. Darrel here>
I'm new to the 'turtle scene' and have had my first Red Eared Slider (Alfonzo) for almost two weeks (he is 4 cm in length), and I have some questions (like any new mother). But first some background information:
<Facts is a good place to start!>
Alfonzo's current tank is 10 gallon, long (I know I will have to upgrade when he outgrows this tank, I plan on giving him the 20 gallon tank that my current fish live in, and then bringing the larger fish into a 40
gallon tank, and the smaller into Alfonzo's old tank.) He has a basking light, a turtle dock under the basking light, a filter, and a few places to sit underwater to poke his head up from. He does not yet have a UVB
lamp, I plan on getting him one in the fall when it becomes too cool for me to take him outside.
<Do keep in mind that in the wild he'd be getting and metabolizing UV rays almost 12 hours a day.>
I take him outside (usually) everyday (I have only missed taking him outside once, because the sun had already set), and sometimes sit him under an open window (supervised of course). When he is outside he is either sitting on the patio, in my hand, or in his food dish filled with water (he likes to try and escape if he gets near the grass) I try to get him outside for at least 15 minutes (I found out today that he need at least an hour, I will bring him out for longer starting today). He also has cuttle bone in his tank, and I feed him
freeze-dried Krill with lettuce (not iceberg) or carrots everyday.
<so far, very good! Two small changes: Diet should be a based in small Koi pellets - a wonderful and perfectly balanced and inexpensive food. Use earthworms for an occasional tasty treat. Second, see what you can do to add the UV lamp sooner than winter, if at all possible.>
Now for my concerns:
<OK>
I noticed recently that his new shell growth around the side is growing in clear (Less than 0.5 mm of growth), so that it looks like fingernails, I felt it today, and it also feels like fingernails,
<that's all very normal>
plus the outside of his shell to either side is upturned slightly.
<A tiny bit is OK, but to much turning up at the edges is also a sign of accelerated growth (essentially obesity) and may be a sign to cut back on the quantity of food -- keep in mind that Alfonzo doesn't have a job, car repairs or laundry to do ... he leads the life of a couch potato, so he doesn't need very much food>
The bottom of his shell seems to be a little bit soft, though the top is nice and solid. He also has some scratches on his shell. He had them when I bought him, I believe his tank mates were not very friendly, but he has no white fuzz growing on it, so I'm not too worried about it.
<Nor am I ... so far>
But his scutes are in a Christmas Tree pattern, with the one's closer to his head raising towards the back, and continuing towards the back, Not drastically, but it is noticeable when I pet him.
<This also is a sign of dietary problems -- change the diet as suggested above please>
Also he is starting to turn black in small patches on his shell, (not on the white part though) I've read that turtles may turn darker as they get older, but he is still just a baby. Could this be because of the tank temperature? (Water: 73-78 Degrees; Basking:78-80 Degrees, though it gets colder at night since I turn the basking light off).
<No, the temperature is OK - maybe just a TINY bit hotter in the basking spot 82-90>
but Also there seems to be some black patches on his underbelly that look like his tummy is hollowing from the inside out.
Is this normal?
<Turning a bit darker is normal, but soft black spots is not. I suspect that if you add more UV, as you're doing, warm up the basking spot, change and reduce the diet, as suggested, you'll see these signs may subside.>
Suggestions on making my tank and turtle better are GREATLY appreciated.
<As always, when there are health concerns, the "proper" thing to do is consult an experienced Herp Veterinarian -- and that is my standard advice. Now .. realizing that it's not always possible or even practical in a situation like this, my first best advice is to change the diet and add the additional UV and heat. Watch for signs of appetite loss or lethargy and check water quality.
Hope that helps>
Thank You,
Chantal.
<yer welcome!>

Worms in Red-Ear Slider Tank 5/31/07
Hello, it's me, Samantha again!
<Hello Samantha, it's me, Darrel again!>
I have stumbled upon another question that worries me! I'm the one that bought the baby red-ear turtles and for a while I was having trouble getting them to eat. Then I bought the Tetra feeding sticks as you suggested and it worked great.
<I remember. You're putting effort into being a good Turtle Mom>
Then, I slacked on cleaning the tank and went a whole week without cleaning it out.
<uh oh. But we all do it from time to time>
I do have a filter, plus the UVA and UVB lighting and a floating rock, plus rocks on the bottom of the tank. When I began scooping the rocks out to clean, everything seemed fine.
<Insert scary 'Jaws' music here>
I bleached out the tank and then I was going to rinse the rocks out and slimy 1" worms starting floating to the top.
<AHA!>
I dumped the rocks and cleaned out the tank with more bleach. I put everything back in without the extra rocks on the bottom. Then a few more of those worms started showing up.
<I hate when that happens>
I'm thinking they may have been hiding in the filter.
<And in the tubes, fittings and edges of the tank>
It totally creeps me out though!
<The technical professional Aqua-culturist term here is "Yucky">
I also noticed one on my wall outside, which I have never seen before so I'm not sure if it came from the tank.
<Either from the tank or from Cincinnati. Either way ... Ewwwww>
<Um, that was a joke, OK? No cards or letters please?>
They were brown, slimy and when my dad went to flick it off the wall it stuck on like a snail.
<sticky & slimy?? So far, they sound like my brother-in-law :) >
We have a lot of snails by our house as we live a mile from the ocean. Did these come from the tank? Or perhaps did they crawl into the tank?
<So far there are a number of possible culprits. Planaria (flat worms), nematodes and a few other little ickies that could fit that bill. Usually I've caused situations like this accidentally by the introduction of live plants (which you haven't done) but it's also possible that the eggs were in the Sliders gut when you got them from their previous environment... the important thing is not to let it get the best of you>
Please help- I'm so disgusted- and have learned my lesson about cleaning the tank often!
<We learn from our mistakes, Samantha, so don't sweat it. Clean the tank, rocks, gravel, platforms PLUS the filter, and filter tubes. The way I do this is to place a bucket in the bathtub and fill it with cold water. Then install the filter (after you've cleaned the media) along with it's pickup & discharge tubes into this bucket and then get the filter started. After circulation has been established, turn on the hot water and let it run into the bucket (this is why the bucket is in the bathtub) and eventually the water will get very hot and that hot water will circulate into and through the filter and all the tubes and help to clean everything. You can also add a half cup of bleach into that water and let that circulate for a while, but then care must be taken to rinse, rinse and rinse again to get that chlorine washed away. This process may even take a couple of cycles over a week or so before you get rid of them completely.>
Thank you!
<As always, you're totally welcome!>

Worms in RES tank – 06/07/07
I was cleaning out my red eared slider's tank, and I noticed tiny worms that resembled earth worms.
<I hate when that happens.>
I was wondering how harmful these were and how to get rid of them.
<There are several dozen worms and worm-like critters that come along and none are particularly harmful unless the sheer number of them overwhelms the tank and/or the occupants of the tank. Without knowing the specific source and type of worm, the best thing to do is clean the tank and everything associated with it (gravel, rocks, pump, filter & tubes .. everything) very thoroughly. In a turtle only (no fish) environment, you have the luxury of being able to use soap & even bleach to help clean and sterilize everything -- as long as you rinse well at the end. And remember, you can use Amquel or Novaqua or similar product in the final water to neutralize any remaining chlorine. You may have to do this several times over a period of weeks if the turtle's gut is where the worms originate and the eggs are in his poop. But eventually, hygiene wins out!>
Also, I have a heat lamp set up for my turtle and his setup is next to a window where the light shines down into the tank. Is that sufficient, or do I need to get a UVA/UVB lamp as well?
<No, sadly, UV light is filtered very efficiently by glass and plastic (and even to some extent by screens in windows) so my guess is that very little of the UV passes through the glass and into the tank. If you can afford it, a fluorescent-style reptile lamp and fixture is the best way to go.>
Thanks for your time
Cher
<We're happy to help, Cher!>

Re: About my red ear sliders, sys.    5/24/07
Hey guys
<Hello David.  Again>
Hey guys I don't have that much money that's why I haven't invested in a filter but when I do what type of filter should I get? People told me that I should think about in the long run so I wouldn't have to keep upgrading as my turtle grows.
<The kind of filter depends on the kind of tank that he's in and how big the turtle is, David.  Turtles are messier than fish and water changes do more to keep the water clean that most filters.  Many people don't have any filter at all and just change the water more often, so it's really up to you.>
Then someone told me about the sponge filter that works pretty good so I am asking for your opinion. I do change the water about every 3 days.
<A sponge filter and air pump are fine for a small tank with a little turtle but not practical as the turtle grows.  A small canister filter will help keep the water moving and water changes will help keep in clear.>
If I use tap water is it necessary to conditioned the water with a type of conditioner, if so what type of conditioner are out there that I can use .
<No conditioner needed David.  Plain tap water is just fine.  If you look on our web site at the bottom of the page you'll see a Google Search box.   Select to search wet web and type in your question and you'll find many answers to these common questions>
thank you
<You're welcome, as always!>

Filter media for Sliders   5/23/07
I really searched but could not find an answer to this.  I have a large 3 ft by 6 ft indoor “pond” for my 4 Red Eared Sliders.  
<Nice.  What do you have for basking lights and UV needs?>
I am currently filtering with 2 Fluval 405’s with weekly 50% water changes.
<Again - very nice and thoughtful of you>
I have been using the media and the suggested configuration that came with the filters, which is the coarse foam pads, two baskets of carbon on bottom and two baskets of ceramic rings on top. I was wondering what the best media would be and the best configuration, i.e. what media in top, middle, and bottom baskets.  I assume the coarse foam pads and carbon are good, but what about those ceramic rings it comes with? And should the carbon be in the bottom baskets? What do you recommend?
<The ceramic rings are to provide the best possible surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow as part of a biological filter.  This is more relevant to fish keeping than turtle keeping.  A Biofilter is always a nice touch, but trying to have a biocycle big enough to handle the poop and waste of four Red Eared Sliders is almost impossible.  I suspect you've already noticed this, which is why you do a 50% water change each week.   In addition, the chlorine or chloramines in the water you add is detrimental to some of that bacteria, so the first thing I'd do is forget about the ceramic rings and replace them with perhaps a medium filter pad.  With that filter, you have coarse pads along the side, then the water flows up (to more coarse pads), a medium pad and finally to the carbon in the top (last) chamber.   With a weekly water change of 50% you have a very adequate filter, so let your eyes and nose be your guide>
Thanks!
<welcome!>

Re: Filter media for Sliders   5/23/07
Thanks so much for your help.  
<No problem Richelle - that's why we're here>
When you say "medium filter pad", what are you referring to? Is that a specific Fluval product, or is there another brand I can use? I'm not too well versed on filters and filter media and I'm having a hard time finding something that fits that bill.
<It actually doesn't matter that much. The Fluval pads are good, but whatever your local pet or pond store has to offer (pond stores are really good for raw materials for such things) will work fine.  The point is to make it easiest on you ... so you can experiment to see what lasts longest in your filters>
Incidentally, I have a 17 inch 7% UVB "desert" light for UV and a regular light bulb in a clamp lamp for basking.  I also have 2 250 watt submersible Ebo Jagers that keep water temp nicely regulated.
<Like the lights!  Not so crazy about the submersible filters.   Never underestimate a turtle's ability to break something and it would be shocking (to make a pun) if they cracked a heater.  Also, I'm just not sure they need it -- as long as they can heat up under the lamp the water temp isn't so important>
I've been keeping Red Eared Sliders for about 10 years, but until January they lived in big Rubbermaids that I emptied, cleaned, and refilled weekly with no filtration. Fun.
<Been there.  Done that.  And carried that and emptied that and scrubbed that, too!  Glad you're making progress.  As you have already found .. if they can get wet and dry and get wet and warm and eat, they're very forgiving about most everything else>
Sorry if I'm not supposed to leave the original message in the email but I had to use a different email address and was afraid you wouldn't know what I was talking about!
<That's OK Richelle, some days I don't always know what I'm talking about, either!  Lucky for you, today I do!  It was thoughtful of you to include the mail and easy enough for me to delete.  Good luck to you!>

I need to ask about the Red Eared Slider turtle, sys. mostly   - 5/18/07
hi my name is Lisa and I have a couple of questions that I need to ask about the Red Eared Slider turtle.
<welcome Lisa, I'm Darrel - let's see if we can help>
My daughter Ashley brought home a Red Eared Slider turtle from the lake out in East TX. However, I am trying to find the right one of the research on these Red Eared Slider turtles.
<for pet purposes they're pretty much all the same. If he has red patches near his ears, that's good enough for now>
The turtle we have now, I guess it's a he and he's about 2 3/4" just a small baby Red Eared Slider, I am having problems with him, he's seem like he doesn't want to bask, but I also don't have the extra $$$ to buy all of this stuff for him.
<they don't need very much, let's see what we can do>
I have a 10 gallon tank along with my goldfishes I have about 8 of them, would it hurt him to be in that tank with my fishes?  Will he drown and won't be able to get back up for air?
<better not.  Water levels and temperatures and a lot of other things are different>
I have a small container that I just recently bought a couple of days ago, will he be ok in that container until he will get bigger to be put outside?
<as long as he can't climb out of it and the cat or dog (if you have them) can't get to him, it should be fine for now>
How high does the water need to be for him to swim? I have notice that he just like to swim, he's not interested in the food I offered him. But he will poke his head out of the water and look around.
<for now, all we need is enough water to that he can get wet (but they do like deeper water) and a space where he can easily climb to get completely dry.  The first thing to do is see that he can get him warm to about 85-90 degrees when out of the water.   I'd like you to put some sort of light bulb over his "dry area" so that he can warm up -- that will probably also help him start to eat (they eat and digest when they're warm, not cold).  Warm ... but not HOT.    If you don't have a way to let him get warm when he's out of the water, you should at least take him outside for a few times a day and let him walk or warm up in the sun.  Just remember they can heat up very quickly and they can get away from you if you don't watch them>
Can you please respond back at this email address:
<<deleted>>
I really need some help on this little guy, this would be my first time having to raise a turtle.
<they're fun and interesting pets>
1 more question, will he be mean and aggressive to us and other people around him?
<usually if they're well fed and happy, they're easy to get along with>
thank you for your time. Lisa
<You're welcome Lisa.  Make these first few steps and then write back and let us know how he's doing!>

Are RES adventurous?  – 05/16/07
I've raised my RES since she was 1-1/4" long;  now she's 7-1/2".  On a recent trip to Santa Barbara CA, I came upon a public park lily pond stocked with carp, and around 200 RES.
<Hi, I'm Darrel.   I've been there, Eric and yes, it's impressive>
I was impressed with how ACTIVE they all are in "the wild", and decided to give my RES a shot at freedom.  Now, she can climb out of her plastic tub and goes all over the yard.  (I should interject here that she can NOT get out of the yard, and we live in sunny So Cal)   Sometimes she just sits on patio or walkway, basking, but, just as often, wanders throughout the yard, taking hidden naps, underneath various plants.  She does NOT dig  I keep hoping to see her go up the ramp, and back into her tub on her own, but so far (2 weeks) I have to go find her and bring her back to the tub in the late afternoon, to eat and sleep (covered to protect her from raccoons that bit off half of one leg years ago!)
<I think a part of your question is asked and answered right here.  Even in sunny So Cal, where I live as well, there are all kinds of things from dogs, cats, raccoons and even possums and skunks that live with us here in the suburbs that can be very bad news for your Slider.>
My questions are:
1)  Is it normal for RES to stay out of the water for multiple days?  
<normal isn't a word I'd normally use as it's not a habit that you'll see in the wild.  I've seen it many times in captive situations and often without negative consequences .. yet I'd hesitate to call it a good thing and yes, on rare occasions I've uncovered turtle remains half buried in a yard someplace.  Simply put, this is not a behavior you should encourage.>
2)  Do RES have the brains to find the water again, or do we have to create a "poolside" basking area that she can't escape from?  (Note:  she "knows" where the water is, and is NOT afraid of us--she freely lets us pet her head)
<In my opinion, the best thing is to provide an enclosure that is 2/3 to 3/4 aquatic with a nice shore for basking and other terrestrial activities while being close to the water.  Remember that in nature, water is their safety zone>
3)  We added goldfish or worms to her diet (and Reptomin) several years ago.  After reading stuff on your site regarding mature turtles going more vegetarian, I have tried adding her old favorite lettuce (and she only wanted one kind--the expensive kind, of course).  She's not interested anymore.  If she doesn't want it, can I assume that she doesn't need it?  (I'm happy to add that the happy, "wild" turtles look just as healthy as my turtle)
<I've raised baby hatchlings all the way to adults on no staple food other than a good quality koi pellet - it provides all the basic nutrition they need.  Then for a rare treat, some night crawlers from my local pet store.>
I realize that most people keep their RES in a vivarium out of necessity.  I,  as well, thought it was a necessity to keep our turtle "fenced in", because I thought that, by NATURE, they seldom wanted out of water.  Since seeing the wild turtles "happily" swimming about the carp and the lily pads, or basking, and free to wander out into the park, if they want, I got interested in your view, and the views of RES owners who give their pets the run of the yard.
<your best bet for an outdoor enclosure is a fenced area around the pond with an inward lip on it of at least 5 inches or else an unclimbable material at the top.  They can be incredible climbers if given half a chance. But even then that allows the cats and raccoons and possums access to your little friend. It's a risk we take with outside animals.>
The wild RES seemed unafraid of people.  Perhaps people have been giving them food?
<exactly>
More questions:
4)  I saw no hatchlings swimming or basking, the smallest being around 3"  Do hatchlings have to hide from other turtles or predators?
<yes.  for their own safety, hatchlings make themselves scarce.  While most subspecies of sliders and cooters are mellow and not particularly predatory on other turtles if they're otherwise well fed, it's never something I'd recommend.  Just in general, nature works against that hatchling's chances for survival.>
5)  I saw turtles swimming and basking in groups.  Do males and females of differing ages "hang out"?<they're fairly social animals at all sizes Eric.  I've never personally noticed any particular social hierarchy other than the smaller males (with the longer front nails) constantly trying to attract the attention of the larger females.>
Anyway, feel free to edit the heck out of this letter, in response.  I took to heart your words that ONE "long" letter would give you all a better feel for my pet's situation.
Thanks!
--ventu
<De nada, Eric.  I hope this helps!>

Spoiled Turtles Need Light   4/19/07
I have 2 really adorable RES turtle hatchlings that I have had since the beginning of February. They are both extremely spoiled and love to be held all of the time. When you put them back into their 30 gallon tank they will try to climb back up your hand or whenever you go over to the tank they swim over to you and beg to be taken out. If you put your hand into the tank they swim over and most of the time right onto your hand to be taken out of the tank. Their favorite think in the world is to be placed underneath your shirt (around your shoulder area) and they sleep. They will stay like this for hours and hours and seem to get quite angry when you disturb them to put them back in their tank.
Since I have to get things done during the day - I have discovered that if I take one of my t-shirts and place it in a Tupperware container and let them climb inside the t-shirt and sleep they are quite content too. So I have been letting them stay in that now for 3-4 hours a day and sleep outside of their tank and that seems to make them happy. Their tank is warm - I have a turtle heater that is preset to 78 degrees - I also have a UVA/UVB light - A ceramic heater lamp - and a basking light - as well as a turtle log and a docking ramp - and plants for them to hide in - so it isn't like the aquarium isn't comfortable. I love that the turtles are very friendly and trusting... they both love Love LOVE to have their heads petted and one will even rub his own head against your finger  - which is adorable - so I love them being social. But I am worried that they may be spending too much time out of the water? Is this behavior okay? They both seem very healthy - eat well (maybe too well - they seem to be getting chunky - so I may have to cut back on their feeding - I have been feeding them 2x a day) and very alert. Jen (A very new and doting turtle mother)
< No doubt they are attracted to the warmth. If they spend too much time you and not enough time basking then they may develop problems with their shells. The lighting helps the turtles absorb minerals from their food. If they spend too much time with you and not enough time basking then they may start to get shell problems.-Chuck>

Turtle Set Up  4/10/07
I have a few questions concerning my two red ear sliders. I currently have 2 small RES in a 10 gallon tank with a filter, heater, spring water, dry dock and UVB light. Is there anything else I am missing, or would be better?
< The basking site needs a heat lamp that will get the are up to at least 85 F.>
Also, I was reading some information on the website and I am a little confused. I should not be feeding my RES feeder fish?
< This is not the best diet for your turtles. I would recommend a commercial hatchling turtle diet, supplemented with insects and worms. Feeder fish are poorly fed and poorly treated and contain few nutrients.>
Is that at all, or just gold fish or all guppy fish?
< Fish are a good source of protein but young turtles need lots of other vitamins and minerals too.>
I had an RES about 2 years ago and he didn't live long, therefore I would like to keep my current ones in the best set-up and environment as possible! Please help me. I would greatly appreciate your thoughts, concerns and/or comments! Thank you! Amanda
< We are here to help. Lots of good info on the WWM site check it often.-Chuck>

Second Hand Smoke With Turtles  4/10/07
Hey, Crew! I recently purchased two baby RES. I keep them in a tank in my room, with a sufficient environment. My only concern is that I smoke a pack a day, and smoke most of those cigarettes in my room. Will this give my precious RES any problems? Also, how long does it normally take for these turtles to grow?
Sincerely, Black Lungs in New Jersey.
< Second hand smoke is not great for any animal. Turtles are not real heavy breathers but they do live a long time. Over many years they may accumulate some of the toxins in the smoke, but I have not heard or seen of any studies that indicate the effects. The water in the tank would be a bigger problem. Water will pick up everything in the air so I would recommend regular water changes and a filter with carbon in it.-Chuck>

Re: Red Eared Slider Babies. Turtle Tank Filtration   2/23/07
Thanks for the quick response.   I have to change the tank every 2 days now.   My 19 year old son has a turtle that we have had for 10 years.  It's about 5 inches long.   So I guess it is a male.
< Male turtles have longer tails and very long front claws.>
I will have to keep them because they are a lot of work,  and I could not trust anyone else to take care of them like I do.  What filtration brand do you recommend?  Are canisters better than the regular under water kind?  What brand?  
< The best filter is the one that you will clean the most often. It collects the waste but it is up to you to get rid of it. Look at the Rena big canister filters. Also check out the Python water changing system for doing big water changes very quickly.>
The turtle with the swollen eyes ( Michael Angelo) is doing much better and the others do not mess with him/her.  He/she loves to eat pre-killed guppies.
he started eating really well last week and has not stopped since.
Thank you so much for being there to answer these questions for us. Angela
< The swollen eyes are caused by a vitamin A deficiency.-Chuck>