|
| |
|
FAQs About Turtles in General 2
Related Articles: Turtles,
Shell Rot in Turtles,
Amphibians, Red
Eared Slider Care,
Related FAQs: Turtles 1,
Red Ear Sliders,
Turtle Identification,
Turtle Behavior,
Turtle Compatibility,
Turtle Selection,
Turtle Systems,
Turtle Feeding,
Turtle Disease,
Shell Rot,
Turtle Reproduction,
Amphibians, Other
Reptiles,
Pardon me, while I slide on outta here.
|
 |
Quick Question About Turtles and One Comment. 5/18/08
First off right now I have a 75 gallon tank set up with a Jebo canister filter
for up to a 250 gallon aquarium as well as Jebo UV Sterlizer to keep the water
nice and clean.
<Sounds great.>
I have 4 sliders, 2 musk, and 1 mud all are under 4 inches. When they get a bit
bigger I will be moving them into a larger tank. Right now they all get along
great although in the past few days I have noticed the 3 larger RES have begun
to flutter their claws sometimes in a triangular formation all three at the same
time - since they are not sexually mature yet - I wonder if they are just
playing or trying to see who will be the dominant turtle of the aquarium - from
reading a lot of your questions and answers on here I fear that may change -
before going out and purchasing the huge stock tank that I was going to get them
for all of them to grow into I was wondering if I should at some point think
about separating them.
<Males do this "fluttering" thing with their front flippers. You can sex Red Ear
Sliders by looking at their front flippers: males have dramatically longer
claws. Males also have a longer/thicker tail.>
I don't want to yet since the sliders especially seem to be such buddies as well
as the 2 musk turtles - the only one who seems to be a loner is the mud turtle
he or she seems to hang out in a corner by a side of the tank where he can see
his own reflection which makes me feel bad and almost makes me want to get him a
companion.
<Juvenile reptiles may well coexist, and may indeed stick together on the basis
of "safety in numbers". After all, juvenile turtles/terrapins are often easy
prey for water birds and other predators. It's doubtful whether they form
"friendships" as we know them, but there may well be an instinct that keeps them
together. That said, captive turtles of all ages do fine on their own.>
I can tell for sure that one of my sliders is going to be a boy his tail in the
past few months has gotten extremely long - the other two are still up for
debate.
<OK.>
I don't want to bring any more slider hatchlings into the world so would it be
the smart thing to do when they get to be mature to separate the males and
females for good or only during mating season?
<No risk of unwanted babies. Reptile eggs are difficult to rear without an
incubator, so if you don't want the babies, then simply collect and destroy the
eggs. The females can become egg bound under certain circumstances, so it isn't
all easy going, but that's a discussion for another day.>
I also had a comment about a question sent to you in 2005 about a turtle that
wouldn't grow (see: Two Turtles One Problem 12/5/05).
<Indeed?>
I have a red ear slider that I got in July 07 at the same time as another turtle
here is a picture of my 4 sliders basking - they are all around the same age -
Squirt to the left will not grow is just over an inch.
<Sometimes happens in animals just as with people -- for whatever reason (diet,
genetics) the animal fails to grow normally. In fact there's often a lot of
variation in adult size among animals, particularly "lower" vertebrates that
don't have a fixed adult size (as mammals and birds do) but grow continually
through their life. Maximal growth is during the early stages of life, and if
for some reason the animal doesn't eat enough during that phase, it may never
"catch up" with its peer group even if it otherwise lives a long and happy life.
Bullying is actually quite common when juvenile animals are kept together, with
males (being more aggressive) often monopolizing food to the detriment of the
females. This happens with fish a great deal, but can be observed with many
other animals too. Anyway, assuming it is healthy, I wouldn't worry too much.>
I have had him to the vets and tested for parasites and everything else under
the sun which cost a fortune. And nothing is wrong with him.
<Good!>
He is not being bullied in the tank - I feed in a separate feeding tank and he
is fed first so he gets all the choice food and usually if they pyramid on the
other basking site he will climb on top of the other guys and be the top of the
pyramid.
<All sounds fine.>
In fact as I am writing you right now he just climbed up on the basking ramp and
squeezed in next to the larger one. So I don't think he is not growing from
bullying. I know at some point I will have to remove him from the tank for his
own safety because I will be afraid they will crush him as they get bigger but
right now he seems to be doing okay and they are not aggressive towards him at
all.
<See how things go. In a large enough enclosure there may never be problems, but
too keep an eye out for trouble. Making sure everyone has easy access to a
basking spot will help, for example.>
My vet said that although she has never come across cases like this she assumes
that it may happen in the wild and that some turtles like people just don't grow
and that in the wild he would have just been eaten by now by a predator.
<Indeed.>
I just wish I could find him another little mini turtle to keep him company.
<Not required; reptiles generally are not gregarious and do fine kept on their
own. Indeed, by forcing them to live together in small containers *because we
think they need company* we're more likely stressing them.>
Jen
<Thanks for writing, and all very interesting. Cheers, Neale.>
Here is one of squirt alone you can see he is a nice looking little turtle -
nice and healthy - trust me he goes to the vets.
<No photographs came through at this end!>
At long last... Chelonian Articles! 6/5/07
This is generally what I'd write for a keeping & care article without
any editorial guidance.
Please use it if it meets your standards or tell me what to change and I'll
get on it.
D
<It's outstanding Darrel! Would you be willing to accept our standard $150
for the one-time non-exclusive posting of this work? Do you have graphics
you'd like to include (for the big-bongo-bucks of some fifty plus?). I
cannot encourage you enough to 1) Keep writing! this series... 2) Make pix
to accompany... 3) Consider selling these into the print mag. market (I will
gladly help you make these presentations... easy to do over the Net), and 4)
Keep in mind the possibility of accruing all for a tome-length opus... BobF>
Re: At long last... Chelonian Articles!
6/5/07
Bob -- I'm not easily offended as long as you're not offended by the
suggestions.
<Ah, good... am sure you and I both carry thick plastrons!>
I'm 99.8% sure that this one is (a) allowed and (b) has no effect on the
AdSense/AdWords because I've done it a dozen or so times before .. but since
you've brought it up I need to clarify that with Google just for my OWN
needs and liability -- I'd hate to find that I've advised other people
badly. And I understand the desire not to change things that work fine or
fix things that aren't broken.
But what I'm having trouble with is the threshold of where I stop becoming
helpful and start becoming a pain in the XXX.
For example,
1) If I double check the legitimacy and find that it's allowed ... and if I
email back to tell you ... am I being helpful ? or a pushy XXX?
<Mmm, very helpful in this case>
2) I just sent you a Turtle care article asking for editorial oversight. Do
you have that kind of time? Or does it become more trouble than it's worth?
<Is VERY worthwhile... I really am unable to express just how important I
consider our helping others here to be... AND the greater help that having
COMPLETE, straight-forward, simple (yes)
-understandable-for-our-intended-audiences that such articles (that
super-bonus can be referred to) serve to inform and inspire... My friend,
you have very likely saved several thousand chelonians and their owners
(including impressionable youngsters) great harm, or alternatively greatly
improved the lives of these animals, the richness/quality of the experience
of their keepers. I thank you. BobF>
D
College Student Wants A Turtle 1/4/07
I want to get a turtle, the only problem is I live at my college during the
week but come home many weekends. Would a turtle be alright over the weekend if
I cleaned the cage before hand and left it some food? Or would it be better to
bring it back and forth? Also are there certain turtles that would deal better
with either of these than others? If it will hurt my turtle I will just not get
one. Thank you.
< If you have the time to take proper care of him he would be fine over a
weekend while you are at home. I know college can be hectic. In a year he may be
4+ inches and need a 40 gallon tank. Bigger turtle means bigger messes to clean
up. Not that easy to break down a turtle and move it around. I would really
recommend that you finish college, get a job and get settled in before getting
any animal.-Chuck>
Painted Turtle Care While On Vacation 12/24/06
Hi crew! I read almost your entire website and learned sooooooo much. But
this question I did not see...In September, my first and second grade class
inherited a painted turtle from an environmental educator. He is adorable and
the kids love him. We are on winter vacation and I gave him 5 minnows in his
tank to hold him for a week. After I put the fish in, I realized his basking
light was out so I went to get a new bulb. By the time I got back, 30 minutes
later, he had killed, (but not eaten) almost all of the fish! He had eaten
about 3. Bert is about 4 inches. Will keeping the dead fish in the tank for
another week be harmful? Did he over eat? Will I need to feed him again before
the week is out? How long can painted turtles go without eating. Thanks so
much. Lenae
< Clean out the tank and remove the bodies. Instead of fish, place some live
anacharis aquarium plants in the tank with him. The plants will live as long as
there is some light on them so the won't rot. The turtle will eat them when he
gets hungry. The are actually good for him and will fill him up until you get
back from vacation.-Chuck>
Wise Parent Needs Turtle Knowledge 12/17/06
I want to buy a turtle for my daughter. However I want one that will stay
fairly small. Are there any breeds that make fairly good pets and stay under 6
inches at full growth?
Also what supplies will I need to purchase up front to provide good care for a
turtle?
Thanks Abby Michl
< First let me compliment you on checking in BEFORE you buy the turtle. Too many
times we get questions on turtle after they buy them. Check out painted turtles.
They don't get as big as red eared sliders, and only get about 7 inches long.
Red eared turtles get aggressive too. A painted turtle will go well in a 40
gallon aquarium that is half filled with water. They need to come out of the
water and bask to get the proper lighting and warmth to digest their food and
develop vitamins. They do well on a diet of commercial aquatic turtle pellets,
insects ,worms and green vegetables. Here is the check list:
1) 40 gallon aquarium for one adult turtle
2) Hood/Top with fluorescent fixture to keep critters out.
3) Porcelain Clamp light fixture to provide a heated basking spot
4) UVB fluorescent light to light up the aquarium and provide the right light
wave lengths
5) Basking Spot Lamp to provide heat for the basking site. Needs to be at least
85 F.
6) Water conditioner to remove chlorine from the water.
7) Water filter to keep the aquarium water clean
8) Basking site
9) Thermometer
10) Aquatic turtle food
11) Hand sanitizers
Turtles can carry bacteria that is harmful to humans. It is very important to
wash your hands and or sanitize them after handling turtles or cleaning the
cage. If this sounds like a lot of money and equipment just think that this
turtle may live for another 20 to 30 years! There is a very good book on water
turtles titled " The Proper Care and Maintenance of Water Turtles" by Phillipe
De Vosjoli. ZooMed distributes this book along with almost all of the items you
will need.-Chuck>
Re: Turtle Expert Needed 12/19/06
Chuck, Thank you so much for your answer. I know your time is valuable. I
wonder if I could buy some "turtle consult" time? I am worried that her
behavior is not normal, about how long her "laboring" behavior will go on and
what are signs of distress I should know. I do not have the sand medium she
will want and this is her first "beach" I have crafted in a 135 gal tank, as
she is easily 8 inches across and needs swimming and basking space.
Anyway, I have lots of concerns and will be happy to pay you privately if you
would consider some time for me. Thanks, Penny
< Go to tortoise.org and you will come upon the California Turtle and Tortoise
Society. They have care sheets for general turtle care and there you will find
headings for turtle egg incubation can that can be done either naturally or
artificially. While your offer is greatly appreciated I feel that these people
are the real experts in this field because they do this day in and day out and
are up on the latest techniques for hatching turtle eggs. I have hatched turtle
eggs artificially many years ago but I really feel you be best served. In the
meantime, get a rectangular plastic container from the hardware store. It should
be about 12 inches wide, 15 inches and 6 inches deep. The important thing here
is that it will fit in one end of the aquarium. Dimensions, except for depth are
really unimportant. Fill the plastic container with sand, not gravel. Any kind
will do. Get the sand damp but not soaked. It should stick to your hand when you
touch it. Lower the water level in the tank to the top of the plastic container
and place the container in the tank. You want the female turtle to be able to
swim up to the edge of the container and crawl in. There she will excavate a
shallow depression and lay her eggs. Remove the nosy male because he may jump in
and eat the eggs are at least disturb her. After she lays her eggs you can
remove the container. Refer to the Turtle and tortoise club website for hatching
techniques. If you have any questions you can always write back anytime. The
crew is here to help.-Chuck>
New Turtle Questions 11/16/06
Hi, I was given a turtle a few weeks ago, they had no information on the
background of her. I have a lot of different types of animals but I had no clue
about turtles. Her shell is almost 7 1/2 inches & I was wondering around what
age she might be?
< Hard to tell. Females get up to 12 inches long after 6 to 7 years. Could be
stunted from poor care.>
And also when I got her, her shell was all scaly looking & peeling & wasn't very
active. Since I got her, I have her in a 100 gal. aquarium with a heater &
filter system. I made a basking area out of flat smooth rocks & have a basking
light & a heat lamp. I feed her live feeder goldfish, crickets & turtle
pellets. I have tried lettuce, apples, grapes, earthworms, hamburger, and a
variety of other meats, fruits & veggies. I was told that you can just put the
feeder fish in with her & she will eat them when she gets hungry. I put about
25 feeders in with her & she ate them all within minutes. Is this normal?
< Turtles are pigs and they will continue to eat as long as you put food in
there.>
How much should she be eating?
< Feed as much as she will eat two to three times a week. Don't give in to her
constant begging.>
Also she has a slimy film on her skin, all of a sudden, what might this be?
< With the new influx of food she could be shedding her skin.>
She is very active & enjoys getting out of her tank & exploring around the house
& climbing up on things. Am I taking care of all of her needs?
<Make sure the basking spot is at least 85 F. Don't make the water too warm. I
prefer 65 to 70 and keep her on the cool side.>
Is there anything else that I should be doing?
< Keep the water clean by doing lots of water changes and clean the filter often
too.>
Also her shell around the edge has changed to a yellow color, is this normal?
< Sounds like she is getting ready to shed the scutes of her shell. No
problem.-Chuck> Sorry for all the questions, I just want to know if I am caring
for her appropriately. Thank you Lori
Clipping Turtle's Nails 10/11/06
Greetings from Michigan!
<Greetings from Chicago! Pufferpunk here>
We have a painted turtle and his nails are getting really long. Should I clip
them?
<You can, with conventional cat or dog nail clippers. Look for the quick & try
not to cut it. Have Quick-Stop on hand, just in case you do cut the quick. You
may want 2 people to do this--one to hold out the foot (the turtle will try it's
hardest to retract it) & one to clip. ~PP>
Thanks for your time.
<No problem!>
Carol
Articles on turtles and more! By the inimitable Chuck Rambo!
7/30/06
What kind of turtles do want articles on? See Attachments-Chuck
<Mmm, well, domestic species more than non (like the Chelonia mydas)...
General survey pieces as well as Foods/Feeding/Nutrition, Habitat,
Disease... BobF> |
|
  |
Turtle Going For a Ride 6/21/06
Hi. I have an RES. I have had her for a few weeks now. I will be going out
of town for a few days this weekend and would like to take her with me due
to not having someone to feed and watch her. The car ride is about 4hours. Do
you have any suggestions on what to keep her in for the car ride and what
I could use temporarily to keep her in over the weekend while I am staying with
family. Hope you can help, I really want to take her!!
< A turtle would be fine for up to a week without eating. But If you want to
take her then get a Styrofoam box. One used at the pet shop for transporting
fish. Punch some holes in the lid for air. Put some wet clean rags in the bottom
of the box. Place the turtle in the box and you are on your way. When you get to
your destination you can rinse out the rags and fill the box with a few inches
of water and place a stone in the center for her to get out. Keep her in the box
until you are ready to go home and repeat the process to bring her back.-Chuck>
Little Turtle With Big History - 06/07/2006
Good Day to the Crew, I have a yellow bellied slider approximately 4
years old (by the vet's estimation). My question relates to an odd condition
with his shell but I should give you a brief overview of his history so you
have all the facts....
My children brought this turtle (I named Myrtle before I knew he was a boy)
to me a year ago telling me that "a lady was putting him in the creek
because she didn't want him anymore." I have never owned a turtle before so
I immediately went to the local pet store and bought the necessary
gear....ill advised by the PetSmart staff. We found out the hard way that
every bit of advise they gave us was wrong. The tank was not being
effectively filtered, the water not deep enough or changed often enough, no
UVB was recommended, the pebble substrate held too much bacteria and fecal
debris and the recommended diet was incomplete. Myrtle was never a great
eater but stopped eating altogether later in December of 2005. He was also
spending all of his time under his basking light, his shell was peeling and
his plastron was reddish, and if it's possible, he looked skinny to me. I
finally located a veterinarian who would treat reptiles at the end of
January. Her diagnosis was that Myrtle was septic because of the poor
filtration in his tank and his general care was not up to par. Myrtle was
put on a Baytril regimin and his living conditions were altered
significantly. He is still housed in a 20 gallon long aquarium but now it's
2/3 full, has a suspended basking bridge (instead of one supported with
stones which hold debris) a heat lamp and separate UVA & B light (no
additional heat). Basking area temp is 85 degrees and water temp is 76
degrees. Filtration is provided by a Fluval 104 canister filter plus an
additional 20 gallon submersible filter. The substrate is large polished
stones. I do a 75% water change at least once a week and treat his water
with Stress Coat. To keep the amount of debris in the tank to a minimum, I
feed Myrtle in a separate plastic tub and wait for him to defecate before I
return him to his aquarium. I completely disassemble the tank and filters,
scrub the basking bridge, climbing structure and substrate stones with hot,
hot, hot water every other week. Myrtle's diet of floating Repto sticks has
been supplemented with shrimp, rosy reds, guppies and calcium powder...he
still does not like vegetation yet but I keep trying periodically. To make
a long story even longer, after 4 rounds of Baytril, 9 trips to the vet, and
about $500 in money that I don't have to spare... he was doing really well.
His weight went from 103 grams in January to 118 grams in April. I was very
relieved because I have grown to love this little guy!
Now, you have the old history. Let me tell you the current events....
Several weeks ago, I noticed that his skin was shedding. Shedding to the
point that he looked almost furry! There were skin patches floating all over
the tank and everything. I researched it on the internet and figured it
could be all the Baytril or the amount of fish he was eating. I cut down on
the amount of Rosies and guppies that he got per week and waited to see what
would happen. His appetite was still ravenous and activity level was still
high so I was not really worried yet. I asked the vet about it and told her
that we had a water softener for our well water and she recommended that we
add Stress Coat to the water because it might still be too hard for Myrtle
to tolerate. That seemed to stop the profuse shedding after a while.
However, I had also noticed that in our goldfish aquarium, guppy aquarium
and Myrtle's aquarium, the algae was no longer green but had changed to kind
of a reddish brown color. Couple this with the fact that my own skin and
hair felt really dry. I called our water softener company with the question
and they recommended that we change our softener salt to one that did not
include the "Iron Out" because it may be too harsh. We did that a month ago
and most of the algae has gone back to green except for the goldfish tank
and my own hair and skin are softer. But I am wondering if that Iron Out
could have damaged Myrtle's shell. This is where my real question begins..
After the bout of sepsis, Myrtle's shell peeling was slowing down but not
before one of the marginal scutes had come off completely to the bone. The
vet said to not worry too much about it because it would grow back with
time. Then, within the last month or 6 weeks, it looks like there are air
bubbles within or between the keratin of the scutes. I can't feel them, they
don't peel off and they don't feel squishy. When he is under water, these
bubbles look almost luminous. Like he has tiny lights in his shell. When he
is out of the water and completely dry, they look dull and sort of obscure
the patterns on the scutes underneath. I scrub his shell gently with a soft
toothbrush and an iodine solution, remove really loose scutes and apply
shell conditioner about once a week or so. More often if his shell is
looking bad, less often if he is looking good. Have you ever heard of
anything like this? I have a call in to his vet but she is out of town for a
while and I just don't want to take any chances. I wish I had a digital
camera so you could see what I am talking about. If I can find one, I'll
send pics.
I thank you so much for your time. I know I have been long winded with this
explanation and I apologize for that. I hope you can help because I really
want to provide the best care for my little buddy so I can have his company
for many years to come. I look forward to hearing from you,
Sincerely, Julie Parker
< As the turtle sheds its skin the lose material is attacked by aquatic
fungus and mold. It really does the turtle no harm. It just looks bad. Get
your water for the turtle from the garden hose before it goes into your
house and before the water softener has a chance to treat it. Water
softeners replace much needed calcium with sodium and potassium. If your
turtle does not get enough calcium then they develop shell problems. Add a
Dr Turtle to the tank and do a Repti Turtle Sulpha Dip. Watch the areas
closely. The gases under the shell are caused by bacteria. It may be shell
rot. This is a bacterial infection in which each area needs to be surgically
cleaned out and antibiotics applied.-Chuck>
Rare Wood Turtle Needs Proper TLC - 06/07/2006
Hello Crew,
I just saw Brandon Heuyard's turtle pix & post of 4-11-2006 post . It is a
woodland turtle,...rare, possibly threatened. It is semi
aquatic, lives near stream & rivers. Needs a lot of good care, fresh water for
soak immersion which must be changed daily suggest & right
after defecation, food is berries fruit, earth worms, fresh lean beef cut up
small. If one wants to keep one, I suggest reading up on them, food, habitat & very important hibernation requirement for continued well
being. Not a child's fun pet , but a serious custody only. I do not
know how to reach & am not figure out how to access forum. Please post & you
may share email address with him. Ellen
< eplanner(AT)ix(DOT)netcom(DOT)com <<Replace the (AT) with @ and the (DOT)s
with . - just trying to avoid someone getting spammed. -Sabrina>>>
< Thank you for your concern and we will post on the site for all to
read.-Chuck>
Old Box Turtle 5/26/06
My name is Stacy I am 14.
Hi Stacey, Pufferpunk here.>
My sisters boyfriend found this box turtle on the side of the road on a rainy
day. When he got home he gave me the turtle. I noticed that my turtle has 2
holes in her shell.
<This is common with older turtles. Had some shell damage in the past but
should be fine & be able to live a long life with this.>
On his right back leg that he only has 1 nail on it and the other has all 3.
<Yes, you have a 3-toed box turtle with 1 deformed foot. No issues there.>
I was wondering what I could do to fix everything that's wrong with her.
<Nothing to fix. Just things that happen to a turtle in the wild. Be sure to
give it at least a 20 gallon tank, with a shelter on one side (an overturned box
with the side cut out will do & a water bowl large enough for it to bathe in on
the other side. Be sure to change the water daily, or it will be drinking poop
water. Mulch is a great substrate for them. It's cheap & you can buy large
bags even at most gas stations during gardening season. Just make sure not to
use cedar, it poisonous! Change every 2 weeks & hand clean any poop daily (most
will be in the water). You will also need a reflector lamp for warmth.
Food: dark green veggies (no iceberg lettuce--mostly water), any fruits. Frozen
mixed veggies (defrosted 1st, of course) work well. So do fruit cocktail, well
rinsed, for quick feedings. They love red foods. Canned dog food or dry soaked
in water. Crickets & earthworms (found in wild-box turtles tummies when
dissected), are a favorite treat. Dust the food with reptile vitamins (be sure
they have calcium in there, for the shell).
If kept properly, a box turtle can live over 30 years! ~PP>
Thanks a lot, Stacy Cline
Wood Turtle Info - 05/15/06
Where can we go to get info on how to take care for a jeweled woodland
turtle ?? Juli
< I could not find any specific info on a "Jeweled Woodland Turtle", but I
suspect that you have a wood turtle. Go to woodturtle.com for specific info on
keeping these turtles and maybe see a photo of you turtle species.-Chuck>
Keeping Yellow Bellied Sliders 4/6/06
Hi Bob,
< Chuck, this time.>
Recently I bought 2 yellow belly sliders and at the moment they are approx. 1
1/4 in long, I have them in a 27 litre tank with a floating island and they seem
to be happy enough. My only fear is that I am feeding them dry shrimp and I'm
afraid to give them any fruits or small vegetables because am not too sure
whether or not they are too young for this type of food. Also do I need to give
them any additional nutritional pellets or vitamins? If you could tell me what
age is ok to be feeding them different types of food I would greatly appreciate
it. I'm not too sure of the sex yet because they are still quite young but just
in case will I need to prepare for breeding or incubation? Thanking you Tommy
< Young turtles are more meat eaters. When they get three or four inches then
they start to eat more vegetable matter. Veggies can be offered at any time and
won't hurt them. Try spinach and kale. Zoo Med makes a commercial aquatic turtle
food that can be supplemented with insects and worms. Proper lighting with UVA
and UVB, will provide the turtles with the means to produce their own vitamins.
females get bigger than males and males have longer tails.-Chuck>
Poor Painted Turtles - 03/22/06
I have 2 red eared sliders that I've been raising for about a year now and
their doing awesome but now my sister brought to me her 2 painted turtles
she got this summer and they have not grown at all! Their probably the size
of a quarter still. She never had a light or warm water or anything for them
and now I have to take care of them. I have no clue what to do with them and
I feel bad for them! All I have right now is one cage, so I put them in with
my red eared sliders. They're probably 3-4 inches and their a male and
female but I don't think their even one yet? Can they reproduce?
< Probably not until next year.>
Is it okay for the baby painted turtles to be in the tank with them?
< No, red eared sliders are very aggressive turtles and will hog all the food
and intimidate the smaller turtles to the point to they will not eat.>
What should I do to help them grow?
< Start treating them like you RES's when they were small and give them the TLC
they deserve.>
When I pick them up I can actually feel their legs moving through the center of
their shell on the bottom in the center. I think their not in good shape? What
can I do? Help me please!
< Start by giving them their own tank. Set up a basking site that gets at least
85 to 90 F. Start to give them ZooMed Aquatic Turtle food for hatchlings along
with some small washed earthworms. Basking and proper diet with start to harden
the shell and get them back on track.-Chuck>
Adding Things To A Turtle Tank 2/8/06
Hi, again, what other things can I in put with my turtles like plants and
vitamins? I already have a calcium block and am getting the Zoo Med stuff so
what other things? thx!
< Live plants will eventually be eaten or torn apart and become a mess. Just try
and feed a varied diet.-Chuck>
Don't Buy Turtles From Street Walkers
Hello experts!
< The definition of en expert is someone who realizes how little they know.>
Long time listeners, first time callers.
< Thanks for dialing in.>
I think my husband and I have gotten in over our heads. About four months ago we thought it would be fun to get a small hobby aquarium. We started
with a 20 gallon tank, which we cycled for about 6 weeks and have since had a pretty good success with our fish. About a month ago, we
were walking in the city, and a woman on the street was selling baby turtles. We asked her if we could keep it in a tank with our
tropical fish, and she said it would be ok. (I realize now that buying a turtle on the street was a huge mistake, but it seemed so
small and harmless.) We brought the turtle back to our tank, set it up with an appropriate basking island, and everything was okay.
He even learned to take food from my husbands hand.
After a few weeks, we decided to add some silver dollar size angels
to our tank. They died within a few days of each other, and we saw the turtle (and the other fish) eating the remains. We figured our
tank just wasn't suitable for angels, and thing were okay again for a while. Currently, we have the following in our tank: 2 zebra danios,
2 black fin tetras, one iridescent shark, three guppies, a molly and a red tailed sword, one catfish and (my favorite) a very small
elephant nose fish. We haven't had any real illnesses - one case of
ich a month ago. We just added two Plecos, who have been producing
really long, stringy white feces. Really long (inches). But, I digress.
Last night, we looked up to see the turtle with the elephant nose's
face in its mouth! We were shocked, and didn't know what to do - I was practically in tears. The elephant nose had not been sick - he
was attacked unprovoked. We put the fish net in the water and tapped the turtle until he let go. Dazed, the elephant nose headed back
into his ship for cover. We immediately removed the turtle to a quarantine tank. We decided not to return the turtle to the tank that night.
< Good idea.>
We did some research, and read online that goldfish (large) and turtles can live together peacefully. We bought an
inexpensive 20g setup (filter, gravel, heater) and put turtle and three large shiny goldfish in. Well, about a half hour ago we saw
the turtle grab onto one of their tails! The goldfish shook him off, but now we don't know what to do! We don't want to keep a small turtle alone in a twenty gallon tank.
Meanwhile, in the original tank, the elephant nose came out to eat earlier, and his nose is shredded to bits! I feel awful, and totally unprepared to handle this situation.
Here are my questions:
Can we keep anything with a turtle, safely?
<No>
What about crawfish,
<No>
fiddler crabs
<No>,
or frogs?
<No>
Is there anything I can do to help the elephant nose heal?
< Keep the water clean and watch for any infections. Redness indicates a
bacterial infection while a whitish cottony growth around the attacked area is a
fungal infection.> Will he make it?
< If the wounds heal and the mouth is still functional then he will probably
live. If the mouth is too damaged and it cannot eat then probably not.>
Do you think our Plecos are sick?
< No, Plecos are vegetarians with pretty long digestive systems. While they are
eating it is not too unusual to have long sting fecal matter following behind
them.>
I really appreciate any help you can give. Thanks Rebecca (and Sal)
< In the wild, turtles eat everything you suggested. The crustaceans may have a
hard exoskeleton now, but when they shed their new skeleton with be soft for a
few hours. In this time the turtle could easily have them torn to shreds and
eaten.-Chuck>
Useful turtle care info. A personal odyssey
11/21/05
Dear Bob,
I wanted to comment on the request you had on your website for help with the pond slider.
<Thank you for this>
A few years ago, my husband spotted a newly hatched Peninsular slider crossing the road. It was only about the size of a silver dollar. It had likely come from a clutch of eggs deposited in the soft mud in a ditch months before when we had experienced torrential rains. The little thing would have had to travel at least 1/2 mile before finding any water so we took it home. I didn't intend to keep it but for just long enough to make sure it was healthy and eating.
I had a 5 gal. aquarium that I set up for it. I put some nice flat rocks in one end and water deep enough for him to swim about in. I used a small wattage light bulb in a clamp-on reflector over the rocks. I tested the amount of heat generated by the lamp with my hand on the rocks to make sure I didn't have it too hot. I wasn't sure what to feed him and at the time we didn't have a
computer (the window to all information). But I figured that in the wild he would likely eat green plants, snails and small fish. So I chose the next best thing, tuna. I took canned tuna, rinsed it and drained it. I took him out of the tank and placed him in a small dishpan filled with water. I pinched off small pieces of tuna and hand fed him. He ate vigorously. He also ate bits of raw spinach, lettuce,
green beans and grapes.
After a few days I figured he was doing well. But in the mean time I had found several books on turtle keeping and one of them said that once a wild turtle is handled it should never be released in the wild. He would be contaminated with bacteria that if he was released in the lake down the street, might compromise the health of other turtles in the lake. It sounds rational to me so my husband & I decided to keep
"Cooter".
We continued with the same care, the only draw back to such a small tank was the fact that even though I fed him in a separate container (every other day).
I had to change the water in the tank every other day as well.
So I built a large tank, designed with a "Cooter" in mind. Wide and long and fairly deep. I also constructed a filtration system. Using a large plastic jar that I perforated around the bottom with rows of holes about halfway up the sides of the jar. I filled it with activated charcoal and filter material. I drilled a hole in the lid and took the end of a hose from a small water pump located at the other end of the tank and stuck thru the hole. I had to add more holes in the sides of the jar to make sure that the water filtered thru and out the holes as fast as it went it but once I had accomplished that it worked extremely well.
(Only once did Cooter in his active swimming dislodge the hose and shoot water out of the tank onto the
floor!! LOL) At one year old he was nearly 6" in length. Here is a photo of him at about 1 year.
<Outstanding. Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner> |
|

|
Outdoor Turtle Enclosure 9/2/05
Hello again, You guys have been a great help to us, from GSP's, Cichlid
tanks, to keeping a gold fish tank. ONE MORE... we have the opportunity to
adopt 2 red eared slider turtles... we want to build an outdoor pond, could you
please steer me in the right direction to the proper construction, plants,
protection, and feeding needs. We live in North Carolina, hot summers, some
freezing, but not deep freezing cold winters. Thank You again for all your
help. You Have a great site.. Mike Berresford
<Small turtles under 4 inches should be kept indoors. Larger ones can be kept
outdoors in mild climates like yours year round. Go back to the WWM homepage and
check out articles on turtles, pond construction and pond maintenance. Turtles
are very messy feeders and water quality via filtration or water changes is very
important. In general the area should be surrounded by fencing buried at least a
foot deep. If you live in a rural are then the pond needs to be protected from
predators like raccoons. The pond should be at least 2 feet deep. When the
weather gets cold the ponds get less attention because you are spending less
time outside , you turtles will probably bury themselves and hibernate.-Chuck>
Red Eared Turtle Shedding 9/1/05
I only have one more question. How often do red eared slider turtles shed
their shell? I think mine is shedding his shell right now but am not sure. I
hope it is not a fungus also.
<When a turtle is shedding pieces of the shell peel off. They are about as thick
as a fingernail. Underneath should be a very vibrantly colored shell with fresh
colors. They can shed a few times a year depending on the conditions and the
temperature.-Chuck>
Turtle Sick? 8/30/05
First of all thanks for the quick reply. My baby turtle does eat but
it doesn't eat very much. Maybe one little bite of the bread
< Bread? Really? Try earthworms an insects.>
and that's it. And it doesn't seem to like the commercial turtle food that
I'm giving him. I've noticed that when I put my turtle in the water it
blows a lot of bubbles and it's trying to wipe its face with its
claws. And if it is some kind of respiratory problem do you think only
raise the temperature of the basking area to 90 F will work?
< Heating him up will definitely help.>
What other measure do I have to take?
< Get a book on turtles and read it.>
Also you said to clean the shell first before applying antibiotic, what do I use
to clean it?
< Use a Q-tip to get all the infection out and try and get down to the flesh or
shell, then apply the antibiotic.>
I don't see the shell is rotting, it's just that on the surface of its shell I
see black marks. Thank you and please reply.
< Could be variable coloration but you never know.-Chuck>
Two Turtles Too Many 7/26/05
Hi I'm a 1st time turtle owner, About a month ago I purchased 2 red eared
sliders in Florida and brought them home to NJ, one is bigger then the
other. The small 1 is the size of a half dollar and the larger 1 is a little
smaller then my palm. I have a 10g
tank set up for them: basking area, light, heater, filter. The smaller 1 would
never eat while the bigger 1 was in the tank and would never go into the water
while the big 1 was swimming. I would just take the bigger 1 out to give the
smaller 1 a chance to eat and swim. ( But while they were basking they seemed
comfortable together and the small 1 would climb up on the big 1's back.) I
didn't think this was a problem until about a week ago when the big 1 got
aggressive and went after the little 1 and nipped his foot. Will the big 1 eat
the
small 1?
< Turtles will eat anything, even each other. The little turtle knows that the
bigger turtle feeds in the water , so it stays away from the larger turtle while
the bigger one is in the water.>
Since then I divided the tank in half with a piece of pollex glass and
they each have there own basking area but still 1 light,1 filter,1 heater and
the lil 1 still seems afraid to swim as if he was still in danger of the big
1. If the small 1 goes into the water it gets frantic to get out, so this
causes another problem, the small 1 hasn't eaten in a few days. Last night it
finally ate a little when I took him out and feed him in a smaller carry
tank. Is
there something else that I should be doing? Will the small 1 get more
comfortable and realize it's safe of the big 1? Does the small 1 miss the big
1? Am
I just too paranoid and should I put them back together? Thank you for your
time and hope to hear from you soon..
< Do yourself a favor and help the little turtle out too and give him away to a
good home. The bigger one will always be after the little one. They don't get
lonely and will do fine on their own. If the bigger turtle bites off a limb of
the little turtle then nobody will want it. you will be taking care of two
turtles in two separate containers for many years.-Chuck>
Turtle Trauma 7/27/05
Thank you for your response. So you don't think the separation wall I
created is a good idea?
< Eventually you will have to keep them permanently separated. They will get big
in a couple of years and the damage from bites will become more severe.>
Will the smaller 1 never feel safe on his own side of the
tank?
< Turtles are pretty smart creatures. When the smaller one gets hungry it will
eventually go back into the water to feed and figure the other turtle will not
bother him.>
I haven't put them together since the nipping incident. I don't really
want to give 1 up yet.
< Good Luck-Chuck>
Mixing Turtles and Fish 7.24.05
I just got 2 hatchling turtles last week. When I got them, the guy told me
that I could put them in my aquarium with my fish as long as I had something for
them to dock on. He gave me a floating rock that goes in my tank allowing them
some where to dock. My question is WILL THEY EAT MY FISH? I ask this because I
saw on the net while I was trying to do a little search on them, that they eat
worms, fish, shrimp, etc.
<Yes yes yes, if they can catch your fish they will eat them. The other problem
is that the turtles will foul your water in a bad way. You will need to do
water changes weekly to bi-weekly as your turtles grow. For more information on
aquatic turtles please read the following article. Best Regards, Gage
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/redearsliders.htm >
Sick Turtle 7.24.05
I just caught a baby Painted turtle and he was fine for a couple days but
now half his eye is red and I don't know what is wrong I can't take him to the
vet and I don't want to put him back. I have had many other Painted turtles and
they were fine but this is my first baby turtle. He also just sits around all
day with his eyes closed. I am concerned please get back to me soon.
<If you cannot take him to the vet all you can do is make sure his environment
is setup correctly. I would not release him unless he was in the same condition
as when you found him. make sure he has clean warm water around 78F. You can
find more information on the care of aquatic turtles in the following article
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/redearsliders.htm >
Aquatic Turtle Housing 7.21.05
I have a baby yellow-bellied slider turtle. I was just hoping that you'd be
able to tell me if my turtle's tank setup is adequate. Well, his shell is about
2 1/2 inches long. I've had him since late last July. He has a 10 gallon tank.
I've been told that that size tank is good for a baby turtle. <Yes> When should
I consider buying him a larger tank and how many gallons? <The sooner the
better, a nice size for another year or so would be a 20gallon long, they make
them for turtles with a cutaway on the side to hang a filter on, not the biggest
tank, but a good option for a while.> I bought a Whisper 10i filter. Will I
have to get a larger one when I get a larger tank? <Probably, as your turtle
grows it will get messier.> I bought aquarium pebbles for the bottom of the tank
and for the land area. I put a brick inside the tank and piled rocks up on it so
it would be easier for him to climb up on and bask. <Good, make sure it is under
the light bulb.> The size of the land area is 3 in. by 7 in. Is that a big
enough area for him to bask? <So long as he can fit on it comfortably without
falling off.> The rest of the tank is filled with water. He has no hiding
places. When he gets frightened he tends to hide by the filter and face the
other side of the tank. So I figure he doesn't need any hiding places such as
plants, because I'm afraid they would take up too much of his swimming room. <I
would not do live plants, maybe some fake ones. You could also build a cave
type of thing with bricks, rock, slate, etc. I've found animals that have
places to retreat when they are scared are much better off.> The basking bulb is
50watts and it's the ZooMed brand. <You might also look into getting some full
spectrum lighting.> The air temp in the tank is 75 degrees and the water temp is
77 degrees. Should the temps be higher or lower or are they fine the way they
are? <That is within the correct range, no need to adjust it.> I turn the lamp
on about 10am and turn it off about 11pm. <That is a long day, I might cut the
light cycle down by an hour or 2, but its up to you.> I change the filter
cartridge and clean the tank once a month. <Good, this may need to be changed
more often as the turtle gets larger.> Everyday the water depth seems to go
down, so I add more water. <Evaporation.> I have well water, so I don't treat
the water, because it doesn't have chlorine or any type of chemicals in it. I'm
so sorry about all of the questions, but I just want my turtle to have a long
and healthy life. I included a picture of a turtle that looks like mine.
<Sounds good, I would eventually look into getting the turtle into a 55gallon
tank, but for now a 20gallon long would be good. BTW, you did not mention what
he eats? Turtle pellets are good, the occasional treat of earth worms is always
good. Best Regards, Gage In case we left anything out here’s a link to an
aquatic turtle article
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/redearsliders.htm>
Turtle in too Deep 7/20/05
Hi again, I'm so sorry to bug you again, but I forgot to ask you another
question. I was just wondering if the depth of my turtles tank is too deep or
too
shallow. He's about 2 1/2 inches long an 2 1/2 inches wide. He's probably about
1
year old. I found him in an in ground pool. Well anyway, The depth of the
water is 2 inches. There's a slope that leads up from the water onto the land,
so
he has like a shallow end and a deep end to swim. Is that fine, or should I
make the water deeper or shallower? Also, I'm not exactly sure if my turtle is
a male or female. I'm thinking it's a male because, it's tale is quite long
and kind of wide. Its front claws are pretty long also. So please, answer my
questions as soon as you can. Thank you so much! Sincerely, Tiffany
< I like to make sure that the water covers the turtles back by at least a
couple inches of water so it doesn't dry out too much. Longer front claws and a
long tail would indicate that you turtle is a male.-Chuck>
Turtle with Spot Problem 7/17/05
Hi! I hope someone can help with our problem. Our turtle recently visited
grandma's house. He had the same diet , lights etc. the only thing different
was the water. He is over one year old and has been very healthy with a
beautiful shell. When we got home from our vacation we noticed a couple of gold
spots or patches that seem to glow or reflect light when he's in the
water. They are not really noticeable when he is basking on his rock. They also
seem to be spreading. The spots are not soft nor have any different texture or
anything unusual other than the gold color and sheen. We have spent hours
looking on line for a diagnosis, but cannot find anything that describes this
unusual problem. We will take him to a vet, but I have a feeling that the vet
may not know what it is either and will just tell us to treat it like shell rot
or something. Please help us with our beloved pet.
Thank you! Mom and Daughter
< Take your turtle out of the water and gently scrub his shell to see if the
gold patches go away. It may be some goldfish scales stuck to the algae on the
shell. After scrubbing the shell the spots may still remain. Look at them
closely with a magnifying glass to see if there are any true holes in the shell.
If there is then you turtle may have some shell rot. Get some Reti Turtle Sulfa
Dip and a Dr Turtle Sulfa Block and follow the directions on the package.-Chuck>
Turtle with Spots II 7/18/05
> Chuck- Thanks for the quick reply. We have scrubbed the spots. Nothing
> happens. He is kept in an aquarium alone, not in a pond. There are no
> holes in his shell. The spots appear brownish when he's out of the water.
> Could this have something to do with the minerals in grandma's water? Her
> water is very "hard" with a lot of mineral content. He did bang around a
> lot and fall off his rock at grandma's house. He was in a ten gallon tank
> instead of his usual twenty gallon long tank. Can a shell get bruised
> from falling, tumbling and hitting the side of the tank? Thanks! M & D
< Turtle shells are pretty tough. I doubt these spots are from any physical
trauma. Shell rot has been associated with hard water but it is not certain why.
If the spots are symmetric al then I would think it is a color pattern and not a
disease. If the spots get bigger then take a very close look at one of them and
see if there is a bacterial infection growing under the scutes. This would
require cutting a small hole into the shell to get to the brown material under
the shell. I would not attempt this unless I was very sure that there was a
problem.-Chuck>
Turtle With Spots being Treated 7/20/05
Hi again! We talked to a vet on the phone yesterday. She suggested that it
probably is a mineral imbalance caused by water with a high mineral content.
She said that turtles are pretty sensitive to environmental changes. She
also said left untreated he would probably be ok once we got him back in his
water for a period of time. Just incase he's got a fungus, she thought it
would be a good idea to treat the spots with an iodine solution at least
once or twice a day. One cup of water with 2 teaspoons of iodine. She said
it could take a month or more to see any results. The iodine won't hurt him
in any way and is just a precaution incase it s fungus which could lead to
shell rot. The vet also said that any unusual spots on a shell could be
treated this way. If we treat him and it gets worse or we don't see any
improvement in a month, we should take him in to the vet. I hope this helps
anyone who has a similar problem with a turtle. Thank you for your help!
We'll let you know if the treatment works! M & D
< Thanks for the follow up. Hope this will help others with the same
problem-Chuck>
Ammonia Problems in a Turtle Tank 7/16/05
I have a yellow belly slider. We have had it for about 1 1/2 years. About
six weeks ago we cleaned the filters and the water all in one day. since
then we have had trouble with the water. It has too much ammonia. We are doing
10% water changes daily. We have 2 canister filters in a 90 gallon tank. I also
have put some Zeolite granules in the filter that I have been changing weekly.
The water is mucky and a dirty brown. The water did have a smell to it but that
is gone. We tested the water and it just shows that it has to much ammonia.
Today I notice the area around the turtles mouth was yellow and his shell looked
a little yellow. Any suggestions?
< When you cleaned everything you removed the good bacteria that breaks down the
waste from ammonia to nitrites and then nitrates. The ammonia is the worst. It
gives off the smell and odor. Bio-Spira from Marineland will put it all back
together in no time at all. To prevent this in the future I would recommend a
50% weekly water change and change each one of the filters every month two weeks
apart. So clean one filter on the first of the month and the other on the 15th.
Try this and see how it works out.-Chuck>
Old Turtle Needs Help 7/16/05
Hello, we have a pond in our backyard about 12 feet by 7 feet and
have several red ear sliders. The oldest turtle is sick! When she hisses it
sounds like she's gurgling. Her shell is peeling on top. And she stays out of
the water all day even when we go outside. We want to save her, what
can we do?
Teresa
< I would recommend isolating this turtle so it doesn't make the others sick. I
think your turtle has come down with pneumonia. It needs vitamins, heat and
antibiotics. The turtle knows heat will help and that is why it stays out so
long. Set up a basking spot so the temp gets up to 100 F. Give him vitamins
orally though an eye dropper. Get him to a vet for some antibiotics. You should
see some improvement in a week.-Chuck>
Turtle Getting a Wound From Bucket 7/16/05
Dear Chuck. I have soaked my turtle in the Sulfa Dip and cleaned the tank
several times
now. He certainly is appearing more active than before.
< That is a good sign.>
However, when soaking him in the sulfa dip in a bucket not much bigger than he
is (as per
instructions on sulfa dip), he has now developed an abrasion from trying to
get out of the bucket. This abrasion bleeds when he gets onto his platform
to bask. Currently I have left it so that it can dry out and I am conscious
of the fact that I may actually create problems while trying to fix them. I
have the Repti Wound Healing Aid, but am unsure that if I apply it whether I
will have to keep him out of the water for any length of time. As always,
your advice is sought on this problem. Regards, Farah Dwyer
< Go to the dollar discount store and buy a plastic tub that is not so abrasive.
Use this to soak the turtle. You can use a bigger tub. The only reason they
recommend the smaller container is so you won't have to use so much dip. Apply
the healing aid and allow it to dry before putting the turtle back in the
water.-Chuck>
Turtle Bites 7/16/05
Hello, For the past couple of months my male 2 ½ year old has been nipping
at his left arm (about midway up) He eventually stopped and the sores started
to heal but he has now started again to the point where it looked infected (an
open wound) and I took him to the vet. He gave him an antibiotic shot and now I
have to give him 1 shot every 3 days. I am really nervous about sticking my
turtle with a needle and the vet had a hard enough time doing it himself. Any
tips? He is in a 40 gallon tank with UVB, the Fluval 204, a ceramic heat lamp,
and a spot lamp in the middle with some nice basking rocks. His diet consists
of Reptomin sticks, anacharis, and about a half dozen feeder fish once every 2
weeks. (Sort of a treat for the 2 week period) What would cause him to bite
himself to the point of causing this wound? Should I lower the water level
because he only seems to bite himself while in the water? Is there any chance
this infection could have permanently damaged his potential for a long and
healthy life? It is not massive, but proportionally, if this injury was on a
human, it would look like a 6" gash on our arm. I do love the little
guy...Please help. Jay
< The fact that he only bites his left arm makes me think that he has a
bacterial infection on that arm and biting it is his only way of scratching the
irritation. I would include vitamins, kingworms, crickets and earthworms to the
diet. Increase the temperature of the basking spot to 100 F. Get a Dr Turtle
Sulfa Block for the water and dip the turtle in Repti Turtle Sulfa Dip. Use the
Repti Wound Healing Aid to quickly heal the wounds. I think this bacterial
infection is brought on by waste products staying in the water too long. I would
clean the tank more often especially if it smells. That is ammonia and it feeds
disease causing bacteria.-Chuck>
Russian Tortoise with Chalky Fecal Matter 7/9/05
Thank you for your response. I should have told you that it's a Russian
turtle. Does the same rule apply?
< Somewhat. They like more vegetable matter in their diet but they can still eat
the worms.-Chuck>
Russian Tortoise Problems 7/11/05
Thank you. Last question... I promise! The Russian Turtle has white,
chalky
diarrhea.. same solution? (Sorry.. I'm researching this for a friend who
didn't give me all this information at the same time. Again.. last question.)
Thank you Chuck!!!!
< A Russian tortoise with diarrhea is not good. Unlike turtles that are in the
water the entire time you don't have to worry about them getting dehydrated. If
is a different story with land turtles. Diarrhea can quickly kill a tortoise if
it lose to much fluid. I would recommend that your friend take the Russian
turtle to a vet for a complete check up. Your friend has no idea on how to care
for this animal and this little info I have given you really isn't enough for
long term success.-Chuck>
Turtle Question 7/9/05
My turtle has white chalky feces.. what could this mean?
< This is the result of diet. Sometimes the binder of some prepared turtle foods
have clay as a binder. Add some live food to your turtles diet like kingworms,
crickets and earthworms and you should see a change.-Chuck>
Pink Skinned Turtle 7/7/05
Hi, I'm really worried about my turtle. She is a two year
old red eared slider. She has recently had a decrease
in appetite and her skin on her front and back legs
have turned a very slightly pink color. She lives in
a 50 gallon tank, complete with basking platform and
sunbathing lamp, and two Fluval filters (one very
large external, one small internal). There is some
algae growing on the side of the tank. Could this be
contributing to the problem? We feed her once a day,
turtle pellets and dried shrimp. Please advise!
Thank you.
< This sounds like a bacterial infection. Change the water and clean the
filters. Wipe down the algae. Clean the filters and change the water every week.
Place a ZooMed Dr. Turtle Sulfa Block in the water. I would even use the Repti
Turtle Sulpha Dip too.-Chuck>
New Turtle laying Eggs 6/31/05
Hi, We found a turtle about 6 weeks ago and now it has started laying eggs.
It has been exposed to another turtle-the sex I am not sure of yet- What do I
do? She has backed her bottom literally into a pile of dirt and will not move.
Earlier today, she laid an egg out in the open. Do I remove her from her eggs
after she lays them or keep her in the same aquarium? I'm trying to get in touch
with a turtle rescue team near me for answers but have not heard back from them
yet. I really want someone to be able to help these eggs survive if in fact they
are fertile. I do not have a basking lamp. Should I get one and put it shining
on the eggs? Help please. I'm very uneducated about turtles and hope to put her
in safe hands after all of this. Thanks
< If this was a wild native turtle then you probably caught her moving between
bodies of water and should have released her. The eggs are probably fertile. If
this is a red eared slider then it is probably an escapee and the eggs may or
may not be fertile. Either way, if you really want to try and hatch these eggs
then here is what you need to do. Within 24 hours after the eggs are laid they
can be gently transferred to an incubator. This can be any device that keeps the
temperature between 75 and 80 degrees with keeping the humidity relatively high.
Keep the eggs in the same position they were in when you picked them up. The
embryos attach to the side of the egg shell within 24 hours. Twisting or turning
the eggs can sometimes shear the embryo from the shell and kill the embryo.
Direct heat from a basking light will dry the eggs out and kill them. In the
wild turtles bury their eggs in the warm sand were the temperature varies little
and there is always some moisture so the eggs don't dry out. I use to fill a 10
gallon aquarium with about 4 inches of water and place a submersible heater set
at 78 degrees in the bottom. I would then place a brick in the center of the
tank and place a Tupperware square bowl on the brick. In the bowl I would put
about an inch of coarse sand place the eggs on top of the sand. In 8 to 10 weeks
some would hatch. Leave her alone until she has laid all her eggs then make your
move.-Chuck>
I have a yellow belly slider
which I think is a year old or so (he is
about 2 1/2 inches by 2 inches). I feed him 4 pellets of food and
dried shrimp fish treats. The bottom of his shell has pinkish areas
that his previous owner said was from the owner before her not taking
care of his water. They look to me like they are slowly going away. I
wondered if this was possible?
< Turtles may suffer from vitamin deficiencies or poor sanitation. These
problems reflect on the turtle's shell. In many cases the shell can show signs
of improvement when conditions are favorable for the turtle.>
Also his shell is constantly peeling not badly but a little here and
there. Is that normal?
< The shell should shed in stages over a few weeks. If you turtle is growing
fast then it could happen fairly quickly and seem like it is continuously
molting.>
Today I noticed his skin on his front legs and neck was peeling
a lot but it didn't seem to bother him. So I cleaned his tank which was
already clean but I did it anyway just in case. I put him in a dry area
under a lamp because he was acting very strange. He is starting to act
normal its been an hour or so and he is getting back to himself. Do you
know what caused this ?
< This shedding is probably caused by the turtle's rapid growth. This is to be
somewhat expected in a young turtle.>
I bought a shell conditioner that I put on him once a week is that good
for him?
< Probably can't hurt as long as you follow the directions on the package.>
I just wanted to say that my turtle is the best friend. I never knew
they could have such personality! I take him to work with me he has a
small one gallon tank on my desk. He has started to like going and
swims happily all day. He lets me know if he wants less water and to
bask in the light by scratching on the tank wall. he is so sweet and
loves to be petted. I want to make sure he's happy and healthy.
please email me back as soon as you can . thanks again-Nikki
''she's a wonderful wonder, she crash down like a ball of thunder '' -The
Exies - Genius
< With proper care your turtle should live for many years.-Chuck>
South American Wood Turtle
I am having trouble finding anything on the Suriname wood turtle. Is it
the
same as the North American turtle?
<No, totally different species.>
And also what type of habitat, food they need to have for a long healthy
live. thank you for your time
< Your semi-aquatic (Rhinoclemys punctularia) will need an area that is
partial aquarium and partial terrarium. They can be kept like regular wood
turtles except that they need to be kept between 75 and 85 degrees. North
American turtles are sometimes cooled down for hibernation. Do a Google
search on the scientific name or South American Wood Turtle and you will
find lots of info on your turtle.-Chuck>
| |
|