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FAQs about Zoanthid Nutritional Disease

FAQs on Zoanthid Disease: Zoanthid Health, Pests, Predator 1, Zoanthid Health, Pests Predators 2, Zoanthid Health, Pests, Predators 3, Zoanthid Hlth., Pests, Pred.s 4, Zoanthid Hlth., Pests, Pred.s 5, Zoanthid Hlth., Pests, Pred.s 6, Zoanthid Hlth., Pests, Pred.s 7,
FAQs on Zoanthid Disease by Category: DiagnosisEnvironmental,
(Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 
& Zoanthid Reproduction/Propagation,

Related Articles: Zoanthids, Sea Mat: An Ocean Of Color For The Aquarium by Blane Perun,

Related FAQs: Zoanthids, Zoanthids 2Zoanthids 3Zoanthid ID, Zoanthid Behavior, Zoanthid Compatibility, Zoanthid Selection, Zoanthid System, Zoanthid Lighting, Zoanthid Feeding, Zoanthid Reproduction

Oh yes; Zoanthids need direct feeding... NOT w/ phony liquid prep.s; but small meaty food items... Best to temporarily suspend water movement (via timer/s)

Oh yes: AND need some N, P, K... NOT 0.0


Button polyps acting funny..??    10/29/13
I have acquired two separate small pieces of live rock with button polyps growing on them. They were fine for about three months and now a few have opened up (all the way if you will) and wrapped down around themselves. I have tested my water 8.2 pH, the tank is cycled and i have 10ppm nitrates and am running a protein skimmer. They all eat (even the closed ones) when i feed them. Am dosing Fluval 3-Ion and running a protein skimmer.
They have been like this for going on 5 weeks. there are more pictures of them in my photobucket account.
<... what other Cnidarian life is in this system? Do you dose iodide-ate?
If so, what, how? The NO3 is fine; do you have measurable HPO4? Bob Fenner>

Re: Button polyps acting funny..??       10/29/13
2 small mushroom polyps and they are clear across the tank on a different pile of rocks. All my fish are being QT for marine Ich but that's been ongoing to 8 weeks now. So there is a cleaner shrimp, 3 hermit crabs, 3 turbo snails, 2 bumblebee snails and a Fromia starfish. And my phosphate are 0ppm.
<Ah yes; a problem. Search, read on WWM re the need for all chemo-photosynthates for some/measurable soluble phosphate. BobF>

Unhappy Zoas 12/11/11
These were looking great for the first 2-3 weeks I had them, now they are
decidedly very unhappy. Let me start with my tank specs:
29g biocube
150 watt MH lighting, 7 hours per day
1.023 sg
<A little low>
8.1-8.3 ph
10-11 dKH alkalinity
0 phosphate/nitrate/nitrite/ammonia
<Boing! Need measurable HPO4 and NO3... this is at least one dire issue... starvation. Whatever you're doing to render these at zip needs to change.
See WWM re Zoanthid needs>
Two 425gph flow heads
Phosphate reactor w/maxi jet 1200
AquaC remora skimmer w/maxi jet 1200
I've measured and checked everything I can think of, Googled for solutions and pictures, without much luck.
What's going on with these guys, and can they be saved? Thanks in advance!
<Can. Bob Fenner>

Re: Unhappy Zoas, HPO4 12/11/11
I'm using a decent size phosphate reactor to get it down to zero.
<Can't live...>
It was at 0.5ppm previously, and have been told elsewhere that 0.01 ppm is a "high side limit" for phosphates.
<Mmm, not so>
I target feed every other day with zooplankton and the occasional frozen Mysis shrimp.
I found a lot of FAQs re: Zoas on the site, but did not find one called "Zoanthid needs". Would you mind terribly sending me a link?
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/zoanthid.htm
The linked files above. B>

Possible bleaching of Palythoas... feeding, gen. care, reading     8/8/08 Hello! <John> Pictured below is a colony of what I believe are Palythoas I bought in June 2007. The photo was taken in my tank in March 2008 so at that time it had been in my system for 9 months: I have an AquaPod 24 that had the original measly 64W PC's so I got the hood upgraded from Nanotuners.com to 150W PCs (a combination of different bulbs, I don't know the exact combos now but I can check and get back to you if you need to know. This coral continued to look this vivid for a few weeks until I noticed that it started to get a little whitish near the "mouths" in the center of the polyps. Sorry, I don't have a recent photo but I can also get one if you need it. <Please do> Anyway, within the last few months a few more of the polyps looked like they were "bleaching" so I moved the colony away from the light (it was about 4" from the top, now it's on the bottom). <Good> A few weeks after that it started to look a little better but only in a few polyps. Some of the polyps retracted their feelers and now they're only little stubs. Either way, I believe that the ones that are recovering had too much light, however: Question: Is bleaching irreversible in some cases? < If the colony is otherwise healthy, can almost always be reversed> If not, what should I be doing while these polyps are recovering? Should I be manually feeding them? <Yes... need to be fed... See WWM re... you do periodically add iodine/ide?> Also, if bleached polyps are irreversibly damaged, would I be better off just clipping off the bleached ones and wait for new ones to sprout? <Mmm, no... I would NOT do this... Do please see/read on WWM re Zoanthid troubles for humans... dangerously toxic if cut into, otherwise disturbed...> Regards,
<Keep reading, Bob Fenner>

Re: possible bleaching of Palythoas    8/8/08 Bob, <John> Thanks for the reply. Yes, I do add iodine periodically, have been doing so since July 2007. <Ah, good> As far as feeding goes, the polyps that have NO bleaching at all have very long "feelers" and are very "agile", i.e., when I squirt a little Cyclop-Eeze into them with a Sea Squirt they close right away (same with defrosted Mysis). <Bueno> Unfortunately, the ones that have SOME bleaching are much slower to close, and the ones that are more bleached hardly close at all except at night. In other words, the worse the bleaching, the less they seem to even WANT to feed. However, I'll keep trying. <Bien> PS - Are Palys a community of sorts or is each polyp an individual animal (like a sun coral?) <Are interconnected... at their bases... see... what's that site?> Regards, John <BobF, trying to finish up minimally here... to cook Ramen, onion and chicken for all, get on out diving at the "Pines"... Aloha>

Zoanthid Meltdown/Necrosis 7/4/03 Anthony, I've moved this colony into a stronger current flow area (albeit somewhat laminar right now, but I'm fixing that in a few days), and I have scrubbed off necrotic tissue as you recommended. I actually used a Sonic Care tooth brush and it seemed to work well. <excellent and ingenious> I also added CoralLife Liquid Reef Gold Pro Plus (!) and tried to syringe-feed the polyps with CoralLife MicroVert...but they didn't seem to notice. <No exaggeration... I would not take either product for free and I sure as heck would not use them in my tanks. Do consider feeding thawed Mysis shrimps, Sweetwater plankton, Pacifica plankton, etc... any or all soaked in Selcon/lipid rich supplements> I sound like a product placement ad. Again, they're under about 8-12 inches of water, under 2X65 watt CF actinics & 2X65 watt 10,000K full ranges. I have lots of bristleworms, but they don't seem to bother this colony and the way the colony is melting down reminds me of the way bacteria spread in a Petri dish, if you've ever seen this behavior. <Yes... occurs in my refrigerator in a weekly basis <G>>  (like a slow-motion atom bomb from the ground zero point of impact outwards.) <Hmmm... and that reminds me of the morning after if I eat the food item by mistake. Or is that what happen to me with Mexican food? One of the two> Not what I'd call predator attack patterns. Any more info would be helpful and most appreciated. <As will all afflicted animals... QT is usually the best. If not before entry to display... then after for isolation away from healthy animals if nothing else. Daily iodine dosing may be helpful too> I have only about 10 good specimens left, out of 60 or so, and I think the battle is slowly being lost. Perhaps I should chisel off the good section of the host live rock and go from there ? <Indeed may be helpful.> As a final bit of info., the remaining polyps don't seem to have their tentacles raised anymore when they're open...they just kind of droop. I have my salinity @ 1.0235, temp about 81.5, pH 8.2, <pH is flat if that is a daytime reading... aim for 8.3-8.6> .. and ammonia 0-.25 ppm (can't get more accurate with my test kit), nitrates & nitrites 0, copper 0, phosphates 0. Thanks, SLC <Do allow some nitrate (under 10 ppm) for coral health/feeding. Best regards, Anthony>

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