
|
|
FAQs about Acroporid Coral Behavior
Related Articles: Acroporids,
SPS Corals, Related FAQs:
Acroporids 1, Acroporids 2,
Acroporid Identification, Acroporid
Selection, Acroporid Compatibility,
Acroporid Feeding, Acroporid Disease,
Acroporid Systems, Acroporid
Reproduction, Stony/True Coral,
Coral System Set-Up, Coral System
Lighting, Stony Coral Identification,
Stony Coral Selection, Coral Placement,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior, "When in
doubt, do nothing" | 
|
Scrolling Montipora flow - 02/08/09 I have a red Monti cap
and I want it to scroll its a rose form. Currently it is under a 150W
14K HQI bulb. It gets good flow that circles around it. I've heard
that flow/lighting will influence on how this coral will grow. I'm not
sure what those influences are though. I was wondering if you could help
me out with the subject. <Mmmm... along with feeding, water quality
mostly... the lighting is fine period, the only improvement here would
be to have it traverse the surface like our sun... Water movement needs
to be vigorous (20 time plus turns per hour), non uni-directional...
perhaps Koralias, Vortech, or Tunze Streams on a reversing schedule via
a wave maker or other control device. Bob Fenner>
Acropora Question…Coloring Up – 10/09/08 Hello Crew!
<<Hiya John!>> I hope that all is well. <<Not bad, thanks>>
I have a question about Acro coloration. <<Okay>> I know that
it is common for the bright colors found on Acro tips to fade to
brown or green during shipping/time spent in poor lighting at a LFS.
<<Among other factors, yes (water quality, nutrient
concentration/availability, allelopathy, etc.)>> Anyway, I
purchased a small Acro colony about 30 days ago. It was completely
brownish/red when purchased. Now, about 3.5 weeks later, the tips
seem to be turning blue. <<Excellent>> Is this possible?
<<Indeed it is…and is what most hobbyists are wishing for/expecting
when purchasing such corals>> Could this have been a blue-tipped
Acro that turned 100% brown due to poor lighting @ the LFS? <Or
for other reasons mentioned…yes, absolutely>> If so, is it
possible for the tips to turn blue after only three and a half
weeks? <<Certainly… These corals will generally begin to “color
up” quite rapidly…if they are going to at all…though this can be
affected by differences among species, and likely more so due to
differences in conditions of the systems in which they are kept
(i.e. – a brightly colored coral in one tank turns brown, in
another…or vice-versa)>> My concern here is bleaching. <<How
so?>> My water quality is good (<1ppm nitrate and phosphate,
<<The life in your tank requires both of these, and some hobbyists
even dose Sodium Nitrate to feed/improve the color of their Acropora
colonies. The Nitrate level you show is fine in my opinion (even
beneficial), and while it doesn’t have to read “0” this much
Phosphate may prove problematic…I would take steps to reduce this to
less than half this reading>> undetectable ammonia and nitrite,
water a bit warm at 80 degrees [Florida summer] <<80F is fine in
my estimation>> and small bioload). I have a 120 with a
foam/cement background, crushed coral, remote DSB, sump w/filter
sock for mechanical filtration, and skimmer. I am currently running
two 250W metal halides with 14K bulbs. The Acro has high placement
in the tank, about 3/4 of the way to the top. I do target feed about
twice a week. I will attach some before and after pics. Sorry, they
are not the greatest. <<I see these…and this coral looks fine.
The lightened tips are due to new growth of this coral…nothing to be
concerned with>> Thanks for everything that you guys do...
<<We’re happy to share>> you're true heroes to the aquatic
community. <<Ah! Thank you for the kind words>> Also, do you
know what the exact species is? -John Patten <<Not exactly,
no. I think it’s possible it is A. valida (like this one here:
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Picture%2034%20-%20Acropora%20valida.jpg),
but perusing pictures at some of the retail sites may give you a
better “general” idea. A more exact ID would require close
examination of the coral’s skeletal structure. Eric Russell>> |  | |
Re: Acropora Question…Coloring Up – 10/10/08 Eric-
<<Hello John>> Thank you so very much! <<Quite welcome>>
The coral's tips are even more blue today than when I took that
picture. <<Great!>> I'm very excited that my lights/ water
quality are conducive to such good coral growth! I forgot to mention
that I'm using a reactor with Seachem PhosGuard. <<I’m a big fan
of Seachem’s product line, for the most part…but there has been some
debate as to whether this “Aluminum” based product is harmful to
marine systems in the long term>> I have used ion-exchange resins
in he past, but they clog up to the point where water no longer
flows through it. <<Indeed…best utilized with an
up-flow/fluidized-bed type reactor>> The PhosGuard's shape allows
water to flow through it without getting clogged. <<This is a
function of the media’s size as much as its shape…the ion-exchange
resins I have seen/used are also spherical in shape, but much
smaller in size allowing them to compact more tightly and thus clog
more easily>> Is this an okay set up, or should I try to switch
to PhosBan or another high quality ion-exchange resin? <<I prefer
the iron-based media for Phosphate removal (and there are cheaper
products about than the PhosBan), and the ion-exchange resins are a
fine choice if you can bear the expense or will take the
time/trouble to regenerate them. But do a little research re the
effects of Aluminum/Alumina in the marine aquarium, as well as read
Randy Holmes-Farley’s assay of the Seachem product (should be able
to “Google”), and see what “you” think. Cheers, EricR>>
R2: Acropora Question…Coloring Up – 10/11/08 Wow, thanks
for the quick response! <<Welcome>> I did read an article (I
think it was a WWM article, actually) about the aluminum problem.
<<Okay>> Then I read a FAQ from Seachem's website that states
that the aluminum is very low as long as the product is thoroughly
rinsed in fresh water before being used in the aquarium. <<I
see…but what is “very low” I wonder. I do recall that Randy’s assay
registered measurable amounts>> Still, I have my doubts. <<Me
too>> I have read that ROWAphos is very good, but again, I'm
worried about clogging. <<Unless used in a canister filter that
can force the water through the media, I find fluidized-bed filters
or reactors designed as such work best as they “suspend” the media
and reduce clogging…though with the iron-based Phosphate removers,
thorough rinsing to remove the “very fine “ particles is still
necessary>> The reactor I use is a ViaAqua PR 20/20 with a
Maxijet pump. <<Ah yes, I too have/use one of these with an
iron-based Phosphate remover>> Do think this is contributing to
the clogging? <<Mine works very well…as long as I rinse the media
very well before loading the reactor>> If you don't mind me
asking, what phosphate remover do you use? <<Not at all…I use
PhosPure…and yes, my choice is based on price>> Thanks so much
for your time! <<A pleasure to share. EricR>>
R3: Acropora Question…Coloring Up – 10/11/08 Eric-
<<Hello John>> Thank you very much for all of the information.
<<Quite welcome mate>> You have been very helpful! <<Glad to
know>> I think that I speak for everyone when I say you guys
really do something great by running this website! -John Patten
<<Ah! Very redeeming to hear, thank you. Cheers, Eric Russell>> |
Receding Montipora 10/7/08 ??? Hello everyone,
<Hi Jason - Brian here> I trust you are all doing well this
morning! I am sorry to have to bombard you with more questions, but
here we go... Here are the general details of my set up: 72
gal bow front 2x250 metal halide bulbs (12 inches above glass
cover) (10.5 hours per day on timer) 4 fluorescent bulbs in unit
also (14 hours per day on timer) 1502 calcium reactor Ozonator
running off my skimmer (Coralife skimmer) 80 or 90 lbs of live
rock 2-3 inches of sand I keep a log of my water tests, which
I do 2 times per week. My results average at the following: SG.
1.023 temp 80-82F ammonia 0 nitrite .1 nitrate 0-2.5
calcium 420-460 ph 8.4 Alk 10-11dkh I am moving the tank
volume at least 10 times per hour through the sump (I also have 3
power heads running in the tank) I supplement with iodide once
per week (half the recommended dose). Water changes are 15
percent every week or so. <First I want to applaud you for the
description or your tank and it's conditions. It makes it much
easier for us to help when done as you have done. Secondly, your
caretaking disciplines are outstanding, way to go Jason!! The one
thing that jumped out at me is that your nitrites are not 0,they
should be, based on your other results, I’d bet they are 0, maybe
re-test.> So... I purchased a few sps (over a couple weeks) about
5 weeks ago. (6 Acropora, and 1 Montipora) they all seem to be
doing fine until yesterday I noticed the Montipora receding a bit.
After discovering this, I promptly went on to your forum and found
several posts on this subject. I think I have a stock problem as I
have quite a mixture. I have several mushrooms, 4 leathers, hammer,
star polyp, xenia, torch, elegance, flower pot, long tentacle
anemone, rose anemone, sea mat, as well as an assortment of button
polyps. I keep the stoney's located high in the tank, and as
isolated from the other corals the best I can. I also try to keep
the leathers low in the water column to minimize the chemical
issues; as well I use activated carbon in direct flow in my sump.
<I looked at your pictures very carefully and don't see the receding
that you are talking about. I do see a lot of growth (white along
the edges) and what appears to be a very happy Montipora
capricornis.> After reading the FAQs, it seemed like my first
option was to try and move the Montipora, however, it has calcified
to the live rock and doesn’t seem to want to let go (I didn’t pull
too hard, but it seems pretty intent on staying where it is!)
<This is a good sign, it has grown and attached to the rock.> I
have attached a couple of low rez pics to give you an idea of the
placement, and the inflicted area of the coral. Can you please
advise? Thanks so much for your dedication to the hobby! <I
think that you have laid out the tank in an excellent way; you
appear to being doing what you need to do and in the right manner.
Maybe a better picture would change my opinion, but until then,
don’t worry too much, give it some time and good luck!! BrianG>
Jason | 
Re: receding Montipora 8/18/08 Hi Brian, <Hi Jason!>
I wanted to resend you some new photos. I think these pictures
help show what I was concerned about a lot better. On the right
side plate of the coral you can notice that the color is turning
white (particularly where the plates seem to join in the
middle.) It seems to do this on most of the edges, some spots
worse than others. Is this growth or illness? Thanks again for
your time. <Definitely growth!!! You have a happy coral that
is growing. This coral is known for it's rapid growth so expect
to see this most of the time. > Jason <Take Care!! BrianG> |  |
Re: receding Montipora Thank you Brian. <Thank you
for writing us Jason>I think my test kit for no2 might be
faulty. I have never had a reading below this number... I have
however had a higher number when I cycled my hospital tank, but
never lower. Its almost all gone I suppose I should just get a
new test kit. <It's important to remember that with an
established tank such as yours, Nitrites should always be zero.
If they aren't it should be a red flag due to improper testing,
another cycle or a stale test kit.> |
|
Acro suddenly looking different... 10/4/08 Guys!
Thank you for all of your help. I have a question about my first small
colony of Acropora. It's been in my tank for around 4.5 months and seems
to have been doing great. The color is a beautiful fluorescent green(it
was brown at my LFS for weeks). Growth has been slower than I'd like,
but it is growing. Polyp extension is what I was going to ask about.
Ever since I bought it, the polyps have been out almost all day and in a
massive way at night. I finally bought some DT's Oyster eggs about 5
days ago and have fed the correct amount three of the last five days.
Yesterday I noticed that my Acro's polyps were closed up a lot...all
day. <Mmm, likely just "digesting"> Even last night, much less
extension in the polyps. Is this a result of the DT's (no longer
hungry)? <Probably> It also looks a little irritated on the tips
closest to the light. I noticed my small emerald crab climbing the Acro
the night before...could he have had a little taste of my prized coral?
<Oh yes> I also switched out 2 of my 8 T5 bulbs on Tuesday. I
replaced my stock current 10K and actinic with ATI Aqua blue and Blue
plus. I figure that only changing 2 of 8 bulbs would be safe from any
kind of shock (I've slowly replaced all 8 bulbs with ATI and Giesemann
without missing a beat in the past). Because I'm new to SPS, guess I'm a
little paranoid that it could be declining. All of my SPS seem to be
doing so well, but I keep hearing horror stories about how one little
error could cause SPS to die quickly. All parameters are good(according
to API tests). Bird's nest, green and orange monticaps, pink Stylophora
are all doing well. Any ideas? Thanks for your time! <Just patience
here. Bob Fenner> Seth
Acropora questions. 6/5/08 Hello! <Greetings!> I think
I have an Acropora Digitata. <Looks like a Montipora digitata to
me...> Bought the little guy from LiveAquaria.com about 2 months
ago. He used to be in a smaller tank, didn't grow much, and
stayed brown. I have recently put him in my bigger tank with the
same amount of light, and more flow, and he is turning into the
purple color you can see in the picture. <Does happen. Always
exciting.> I noticed in the FAQs that it is simply just utilizing
the light in a different way, hence the color change. Correct?
<In essence. Better/more light makes a need for UV-blocking
pigments, and better water flow/ quality allows for coloring
pigments to be produced.> Also! The tips on the ends of the
"branches," seem to be a creamy, off white. Is that a sign of
growth, or is it stunted from being put into a new tank? It has been
in the tank a little over 3 weeks.. <Just the growing tips, as
far as I can tell. If you don't see shrinking tissue and there is
continued growth, all is well.> Thanks! <No troubles.
Benjamin> Acropora
questions. Sys. 6/5/08 Hello! <Nicolas> I think I
have an Acropora digitata. Bought the little guy from
LiveAquaria.com about 2 months ago. He used to be in a smaller
tank, didn't grow much, and stayed brown. I have recently put him in
my bigger tank with the same amount of light, and more flow, and he
is turning into the purple color you can see in the picture. I
noticed in the FAQs that it is simply just utilizing the light in
a different way, hence the color change. Correct? <Possibly.
Could be other influences, differences in the two settings as well>
Also! The tips on the ends of the "branches," seem to be a creamy,
off white. Is that a sign of growth, or is it stunted from being put
into a new tank? <Let's hope the former. Often the growing
ends/tips of Acroporas are light/er colored> It has been in the
tank a little over 3 weeks.. Thanks! <Keep enjoying,
reading... Bob Fenner> | 
|
Acropora millepora retract
4/29/08 Hi
Crew: <Rich> As usual thanks for the great wealth of
information. My tank is a mixed reef with various Acropora placed
middle to high in the tank and some Zoanthids and LPSs on the
bottom. Tank parameters are Alk 9, calcium 420, magnesium 1350,
salinity 1.024. Tank is 125 gallons with sump and refugium.
Lighting 2x250 mh, phoenix bulbs, 2x 54 t5's actinic. Flow is
provided by 2 Vortech pumps. I have a GEO calcium reactor and ATI
skimmer which seem to be doing their job. Other pieces of equipment
are a Phosban reactor <... Acropora need soluble HPO4...> and
UV sterilizer. Finally to the question. Amongst my various types of
Acropora are 3 pieces of Acropora millepora placed in various spots
of the tank. The corals took a few months to acclimate, but then
started to grow nicely. The hairy polyps had great extension and
the colors were alarming. <Good word> Now, all of the hairy
extensions have retracted. The corals still have their color and I
can see polyp extension at night but only on the tips of the coral,
not the hairy polyps seen during the day. My other types of Acropora
have not skipped a beat with regard to growth. I've been monitoring
this situation for the last week, hoping the hairy polyps would
return with no success. Is this natural behavior? <I do think
so, yes... Most Acroporids do "feed", open their polyps mainly
during dark periods... when their preferred sizes, types of
zooplankter foods are out and about...> I'm assuming it isn't. If
not, do you have any words of wisdom? Thanks again for your time
and knowledge. Rich <I'd be testing for phosphate... leaving
some... Bob Fenner>
Re: Acropora millepora retract 4/29/08
Mr. Fenner: Thank you for the quick reply. I will shut down the
phosphate reactor and monitor. Rich <Ah, very good. I would
take a look/see during the night... to observe whether this colony
is open then. Cheers, B> |
Monticap, not Monty Hall - 03/12/07 Dear Sir, <Ernest>
I am just starting on having an SPS dominated tank in my 120gallon reef
tank. 48 inch length x 30 inch high x 20 inch wide. <Okay> The
tank has been set up for about 3 months with initial growth of coralline
algae showing up. (I believe its good news). <Yes... generally
indicative of full-cycling, suitable habitat...> Tank parameters are
on par. <Fore!> And I have just purchased a monticap (very small
~ 2 inch wide). Which has been in my tank for 3 days now. <For
others... this is some sort of new-reef-speak for a species of
Acroporid, Montipora capricornis> My lighting is 400W 12000K Metal
Halide, I've placed my monticap halfway up the tank so around 20 inch
into the water. My question would be, for SPS and this monticap, how
deep would I be able to place them in the water before its not good for
them? MH height is 20 inch from water. <Mmm, really depends on what
species, and more importantly, what conditions they were living under
recently (and to a lesser extent what conditions from some time
back...). In practical terms, better to start most deeper... raise up to
shallower in weeks time... to prevent "burning"/bleaching, stress> I
have a Tunze WaveBox for flow, would adding Tunze stream 6100 be better
or 6200 ? <Mmm, the more the merrier in the way of flow> Also
after 3 days I do not see much polyp extension on the monticap, would
this be a cause for concern? <Mmm, nope... too short a period of
time as yet to have become acclimated... and don't have much in the way
of polyp extension at any length...> There was some slight damage on
it when I first got it, i.e. some small broken tissue, but it was a
cheap pieces so I bought it. Further I am planning on introducing
grape Caulerpa into the sump as a natural filtration media, would that
be advised? <Mmm, no... best to look around for other genera, even
Division (Reds, Rhodophytes)...> There's no Chaeto in Hong Kong
(where I live). Best Regards, Ernest <Mmm, please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm The tray
with Stony Corals... Scleractinians... Bob Fenner> Crazy Coral
Color Issue 12/12/06 Good Afternoon Guys & Gals: <Scott
F. your guy tonight> I have a quick one for you. I recently obtained
a small (1") green Acropora frag. The odd thing is that half of the frag
seems to have lost it's neon colour. I do not think the tissue is gone
as it does not appear any different to the coloured side except it is
not brightly coloured on that side. I just wanted to ask if you have
encountered this before and if you think the frag is just adjusting to
the change in lighting.. <I have personally encountered such a
phenomenon before, and I am not exactly certain what contributed to it.
I speculate that it's something to do with lighting; one side lit well,
and perhaps the other side not well at all.> It came from 2x250w
halide bulbs. I have 2x150 HQI 10K bulbs that are basically brand
new. water params temp: 79-80 ph: 8.2 nitrite: 0
nitrate: 0 ammonia: 0 calcium: 500mg/L alkalinity: 4meq/L
Flow: ~24x turnover Regards, J <Well, J, your environmental
parameters sounds fine. I suspect that it may correct itself once the
frag adapts to your lighting. In the absence of tissue recession, etc.,
I'd recommend staying patient and waiting it out. Regards, Scott F.>
Purple Spots on
Acropora yongei 3/10/06 Hello. One of my corals (I
think it is A. yongei) has been developing a number of small, purple
spots. It does not look like the tissue is sloughing off in these
areas, but I can't see any polyp extension either. This coral has
been in my tank and doing okay for over 2 years. I did change from
175W to 250W MH, but that was over 6 months ago and this symptom
just started to show up about a month ago and is progressing slowly.
There does not seem to be a pattern, high or low on the coral. All
other SPS and LPS species in the tank, including other Acropora,
look normal and are doing fine. Water parameters are good. Please
see attached. Thanks. <A very nice pic of a very nice specimen.
I do believe this is "just" coloration returning to the colony...
Beautiful. Bob Fenner> | 
|
Acropora turning brown Bob: Love your site. <Adam here
today. Thanks for the kind words.> My questions is as follows. I
purchased some Acro's that had different colors. My 125gal. nitrates and
phosphates jumped over the recommended limits and the across turned
brown. Now my tank is reading almost 0% phosphates and nitrates and my
across are growing quite well and the tips are gaining color. I worked
diligently to get my nitrates and phosphates under control. My question
is as follows, will the brown part of the across eventually turn to
their original colors or will they remain forever brown. Thanks, Joey
<Ahhh... an easy question! I don't know. There are many variables that
effect Acro coloration. Nutrients, alkalinity, lighting intensity,
lighting spectrum, iron, feeding, etc., and often it is impossible to
predict, let alone closely control all of these variables. In many
cases, wild Acroporas fail to retain or regain their wild
coloration. This is why those that do and do so under a variety of
conditions are so prized. Sorry for the "non-answer", but I hope it
helps. AdamC.> Acropora Color Change Bob: <Scott
F. in today!> I purchased some colorful Acroporas and placed them in
my tank. In a couple of weeks, they started to turn all brown. I have
since got my phosphates to 0% and my nitrates to under 5%. The across
are starting to grow with tips being colorful. My question is will the
entire Acropora return to its original color now that I have my water
quality under control? Joey <Great question, Joey. The
prevailing wisdom is that the colors of coral are a sort of natural
"sunscreen", which the coral will manufacture as it needs them. Under
intense light and high water quality, it is certainly possible that the
colors will return to something approaching their original splendor.
Phosphates are well known to inhibit calcification and color in stony
corals, so you were right on in trying to get water quality in order.
Interestingly, you will often get different colors for the same species
even under different lights. Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Acropora
ahoy! "What was I thinking?" "It cost you HOW much!?"
"Throw it in there and pray!" "Yeah, that's a nice one." "HA!
goooood luck!" Well...so far I've had more luck with SPS than with
MPS or LPS, so what the heck. The colony (Acropora gemmifera as far as I
can tell at the moment) is 3" across and 2" inches high, and NOW I know
what an axial corallite looks like. been eyeing it for 2 weeks since it
came in. perfect coverage, extension. the retailer didn't even have it
under direct lighting. So the adventure starts... do you think I'm
crazy? Chris >> Not crazy, perhaps just enthusiastic (From the
Gk. meaning "the god in you", en thuus, hence the term theology...) Do
take a look at the A. gemmifera and other pix I have placed in a survey
piece (the "Acroporidae") on the site: www.wetwebmedia.com... More info
there re the selection and care of these quintessential SPS'. Bob
Fenner Re: Acropora ahoy! uhoh. Went out in the Gulf for
Spanish Mackerel and Cobia today. When I got back, my new Acropora
(which was very dark burgundy when I got it) abruptly (in less than 12
hours!) had changed is tissue color to a light tan-orange. (1 or 2
branches were still dark), and the polyps were expelling the
zooxanthellae w/mucus strands. The axial corallites have not faded
however. Did I waste my money (I won't give up on it until its dead or
thriving)? Is this even necessarily a bad sign? If it is, is it
treatable? thank you, Chris (PS, I am extremely stubborn and do
not give up on anything, especially corals, so I am definitely an
optimist, and don't ever tell me that something can't be done or at
least attempted, because I'll stand firm and accomplish it or at least
try it, and for the moment, the death of my Faviid polyps has ceased to
progress any further after supplying it with augmented circulation)
>> Ah, good to hear... not a good change in your Staghorn... but not
the end of its or your world... Bob Fenner Re: Acropora
ahoy! Though I'm disappointed in the color fading in my Acro, and
distressed to hear that its a negative change, the colony really doesn't
look any worse for wear this morning (no bleaching, etc.). maybe the
color will return eventually. Chris >> Yes... the coloring is a
"chicken-egg" type of situation... the predominant pigments residing in
your Acroporid are a function of what's available (made by its
zooxanthellae), chemical, nutrient, physical (circulation, dissolved
oxygen, carbon dioxide, alkalinity, light quality/quantity/duration,
presence of other bio-chemical agents (from other livestock).... and
many other considerations... You can and do easily effect the color...
as you will find. Bob Fenner Re: Acropora ahoy!
pigments or a "function" of what's available? is that like f(p) = x
+ y + z +... f(current pigmentation) = x + y + z (sum of phys, chem,
and light, etc. variable interactions and effects)? <Yes, if you'll
allow the addition of a couple of qualifying additions (derivatives,
chain-rule extensions, exponentials... to some of these variables...
Like the Maxwell-Beerman Light Extinction coefficient (e to the minus
ir...)> so by variable manipulation (after acclimation is complete)
thezooxanthellae pigmentation (function) will change and develop
accordingly? Chris >> Or simple time and variability going by...
Bob Fenner Acropora and Sea Fan questions Hi
all! Thanks as always for a great site. <our pleasure> I don't
know where I'd be without my daily dose of WWM. <out of the
Institution, perhaps?> My first question is really more just
curiosity than a problem (I hope). I've noticed that my Acropora polyps
are almost always out during the day. They close after the lights have
been out for a while or after a feeding. <feeding particulates that
is... they prefer nanoplankton and feeding by absorption instead (some).
Thus... no need or irritation by the turbidly of plankton at night or
your feeding> I'm puzzled because the Acroporas that I've see in the
display tanks at my local pet stores are always closed. <varies by
species, water quality, water flow, etc> The pictures I've seen are
usually too small to distinguish the polyps. What is the normal
behavior supposed to be? <varies> Do I have anything to worry
about? <nope> I've attached a picture so that you can see what
my coral typically looks like. <a handsome coral> I hope it's
not too big, <if only I had a dollar for every time I had to say that
[fill in your own joke here]> was the smallest I could make it
without losing the detail. <[follow up joke inserted HERE]> I feed
them a variety of meaty foods that I blend in a hand-held blender until
very fine. <a nice effort but likely little help. They do not eat
phyto... and prepared meaty foods are grossly too large. They need
nano-sized zooplankton. A fishless upstream refugium would be a much
bigger help> I feed the tiny suspended food to my small polyped
corals and sea fan, <yes... better for the sea fan indeed> and
the larger crumbs that settle on the bottom of the bowl I feed to my
sun coral. <good strategy> My sun coral, by the way, is doing very
well and growing fast. <excellent. Do look in archives for the old
article in Aquarium Frontiers by Joe Yaiullo on asexual planulation of
this coral. Fantastic!> My second question is about my sea
fan. There is some Cyanobacteria growing on the fan -- but no where
else in the tank, <yes... needs more random turbulent flow here...
they have evolved by design to trap particles!> fortunately. How can
I safely remove it? <just better flow bud... tweak your outlets but
no laminar action here. Have two effluents converge above it perhaps>
The Cyano is beginning to smother the fan, but otherwise the fan
seems to be doing very well, even growing. I've included a picture of
the fan. You can see the dark areas where the Cyano is growing. I have
a 75 gallon tank with lots of live rock and about 3 inches of live
sand. I keep a protein skimmer and a small carbon filter running all of
the time. My protein skimmer is a Turboflotor 1000 multi. The cup is
filled about once a week (is that enough?). <not really... (hence
the Cyano). This is a skimmer with a good design that needs pampering
and tweaking. There are even companies that sell modified Turboflotors.
Browse the archives here and the message boards for modification tips
and tricks.> For lighting, I have a 384 watt PC with two 10000K and
two actinic bulbs. My water parameters are: >pH = 8.3 >dKH = 9.3
>Calcium = ~400 >Ammonia = 0 >Nitrite = 0 >Nitrate = 10
Thanks, Patrick <best regards, Anthony> Acropora polyp
extension 3/3/03 Hi Gang, <cheers, bud> I have a question
regarding my Acropora. I have three different species, some I've had
for over three years. My most recent are the more thicker stem species
that look like the Aspera or Tenuis species. The latest is a really
nice tri-color from Walt Smith. The problem I am looking for help on is
the polyps are not extending. In the store I purchased them from they
appear almost fuzzy like due to the polyps. Mine are smoother due to
the retraction. <the list of possible influences is daunting... in
contrast to your dealer's display: water clarity, age of lamps, color of
lamps, direct and total energy of water flow, DOC levels... etc> The
growth rate is good, but I fear that this may not be for long.
<polyp extension is not correlative to growth rates, bud> My tank
parameters are good. T=75, DKH 10, Calcium a little low 360 (no
reactor), Magnesium 1350, <easy on the Mag with a lower Ca> and
ORP 345. I change about 10 gallons a week in a 125G tank with 35 gallon
refugium on reverse lighting with sea grasses no Caulerpa. main tank
lighting is 3-175 watt MH, and 2 VHO 140 Actinic. I also have 2-tangs
6", and 5 small fish 3". I have never seen any fish peck at these
corals. Any ideas?? <the most common and easiest parameter to
tweak is water flow... usually more is better. Adjust or increase the
amount this coral gets... avoid laminar, of course. The other thing is
that LFS waters tend to be higher in DOC levels, lower in water clarity
and light (age of bulbs, salt creep, etc) due to commercial "business"
and setting... all of which may force a coral to extend polyps further
panning for light and food. It not always a good thing. Extension is
good... overextension is bad. Ciao, bub. Anthony> Heavily
sliming Acropora 5/3/04 Hi, could you please tell me which
Acropora species slime the most heavily? Thanks <Yup. The slimiest
one! Seriously though... Many Acroporas are copious slimers. The
problem is that despite the fact that so many folks attach species names
to their Acroporas, making such an identification is nearly impossible
for the average (even advanced) hobbyist. Comparison to a picture in a
book doesn't work. Even a very detailed analysis of the gross physical
characteristics of an Acropora will usually only narrow down the
choices. In many cases, microscopic examination is required. Sorry for
the rant, but as you can tell, this is a pet peeve. Best Regards, Adam>
Acropora polyp extension 8/19/04 Hi, I'm getting sick and tired
of my across polyp extension. when I get an Acro that has long hairy
polyps, a couple of weeks after I get them, the polyps are not hairy
anymore, and shrink up inside the coral. What can I do? thanks, Adam <Hi
Adam. Adam here. There are many reasons why this might be the
case. Please write back with some information about your lighting,
water movement, filtration and water chemistry (Nitrate, pH, Calcium,
Alkalinity). Please also list the other fish and corals that you
have. Best Regards. AdamC> <<Anthony here... as Adam C has
stated... there are many possible reasons for this, and it is not even
an indicator of good or better health. Still... if you want to finesse
this, know that inadequate water flow (not enough or not enough of the
right kind... as with powerheads/laminar outlets... yuck). Nutrient
levels are an issue too... some folks cheat by adding a tablespoon of
sugar to the tank on occasion. Not a great long term habit, but add one
spoonful and see what happens (this is safe in one shot). It speaks to
how some sugared supplements trick you into believing they are
effective. Anthony> Acros only open at night 11/26/04
Hi all, <cheers> I have read every thing I could find on your
site and I still can't get the answer I am looking for. First let me
tell you about my setup. My 55 gallon tank has been running for 18
months with DSB, remora skimmer, 15X circulation, PC 260 watts (lamps
5mths old), mech. filter for charcoal and lots of live rock. My
measurements are 1.024,0,0,0, ph 8.35, pH .05, temp 80, cal 400 and alk
8.5. All test are double checked by my LFS once a month. I have a clown,
flame angel and a hawk fish, all since the beginning. My corals are lots
of mushrooms, zoos, one Xenia and on the top Acros, pink birdsnest,
trumpet, plate and a brain coral. All corals have a good separation. I
feed the fish a large variety of frozen foods. The corals I feed a
cocktail of Phycopure and Cyclop-eeze or DT's and for the larger coral I
feed bits of fish food like Mysis. On Sunday I stir the top of the sand
bed, clean my skimmer, 10% water change and run test. I have no algae
problems, lots of coralline algae and everything is growing and
happy. In fact, at least once a month, I have to pull some of the
corals and give them away. When I first got the Acros, they opened
during the day for 2 weeks but for the past 4 months the Acros open only
at night. I see lots of them in other tanks that are open during the
day. I have tried to entice them with food during the day but it does
not work. <hmmm.. since they do not feed organically
very well/heavily... this is not a principal influence (feeding). More
likely water flow is the culprit. And the change from behaviors on
arrival is simply their acclimation (or even suffrage if the flow is too
low or way too high)> However, they eat well at night. I have to
believe that my Acros are getting all they need. I know that I could
use more light but they are at the same level as the birdsnest and if it
is growing, I don't think that light is the problem. <agreed> Do
you have any ideas? <lots... the Pittsburgh Steelers should try to
run Jerome Bettis again this week and give Duce at least another week to
rest> If you think it is the lights are VHO ok?
<very fine lights and good color. I like the URI brand best. Change any
brand VHO by 10 months> MH just put out too much heat. <Ahhh...
actually not my friend. It really is a misinformation. VHOs as close to
the water as they need to be if effective (less than 3") are also hot.
And either lamp style can easily be cooled with a single muffin fan (9
watts) and a well-designed fixture. MH are a better value by far in the
long run considering lamp life, trueness of color, intensity (bang for
your buck on light produced per watt), etc> PS I owe you all a big
thanks. I have saved a lot of money. Fan vs. chiller in the summer,
proper equipment selection, etc. Thanks <very welcome my friend.
With kind regards. Anthony> Acroporas
turning brown Hi WWM! <Hi Jen, MacL here with you tonight.>
I know you all are so busy these days, I have tried to research this on
my own and can't really find a lot of info on Acroporas turning
brown. I have asked several online dealers and the LFS, but I get very
conflicting information. <I can tell you right now that's because
multiple things can turn the corals brown.> I have been told I didn't
have enough lighting (when I had 2 X 150W HQI MH), and upgraded to 2 X
250W HQI MH, and now have been told I have too much lighting. <Did you
acclimate the corals to the stronger lighting? By acclimate I mean did
you give them time to grow accustomed to the stronger lighting by
putting them on for less hours or perhaps higher above the tank?> I
don't know how much info you need to be able to tell me why this is
happening, but here goes. . . 80 gallon tank, setup three years
ago. 100 lbs. of LR, 60-80 lbs. LS, Lighting: 2X 250 W HQI MH 14k, 2X
96 W PC Actinics, mounted 10" off top of tank. Aqua C Remora Pro
(upgraded skimmer 6 months ago), 4 Maxi-jet powerheads, approx 920 gph.
Livestock: 1 blue tang, 1 royal Gramma, 1 lawnmower blenny, 1 six line
wrasse, 1 citron goby, 3 blue Chromis, 1 cinnamon clown, 15-20 Turbo
snails, 10 Nassarius snails, 20 Astrea snails, 25 various dwarf hermit
crabs, 2 blue tuxedo urchins, 2 Mithrax crabs, 5-10 Cerith snails, 2
brain corals, 1 Favites, 1 Blastomussa, 1 Montipora (also turned brown),
1 Acropora, 1 yellow Porites. The Acropora and the Montipora are both
near the top of the tank, top 10". Water Parameters: PH
8.3 1:30pm, Temp 80, Amm 0, Trites 0, Trates 0, Phosphates 0, Alk
8.4-9.2 DKH, Calc 375, SG 1.025. I use RO/DI water for top off and
water changes. I top off with one gallon every night. I change about 5
gallons per week. I use Kalkwasser, turbo calcium, and Warner Marine's
two part A and B. I also started adding this week Kent's Essential
Elements (which I was told I should be adding every week). <Your levels
look great but let me ask? are you having any ph fluctuation? Also, how
long after you got the corals did they turn color? How long had you had
them? Do you have any idea if they are wild corals? Often wild corals
turn colors but will often regain color after they adjust to the
tank. Wild Acroporas will often change as part of their adjustment. See
what I mean by it could be a lot of things?> Please let me know what
you think may be causing these corals to turn brown. I have also read
"high nutrients" can cause this browning. What nutrients?? <Phosphates
can be a problem but generally high nutrients are what they call the
"dirty tank" which is often lots of algae, plankton, etc.> Where are
they coming from? How can I test for them? If I was overfeeding
wouldn't I see a rise in nitrates and phosphates? I am just completely
confused and my head is spinning with what everybody has been telling
me, please set me straight. <No worries Jen, I think the most confusing
part is that Acroporas can change because of many things and the
biggest thing is just to go down the list one thing at a time to try to
isolate what did it. Don't worry we can help you.> Thank You, Jen
Marshall
|
|