SPS ID/Lighting 5/25/09
Do any of you know of any 30" T5 light fixtures that would meet my Acropora's needs?
< I thought you'd never ask! >
I had to go and choose a tank size that's not the most common, so now I'm not having much luck finding 30" fixtures.
< 30" is not a popular T5 fixture size, but there are a few on the market.
The Current Sundial comes in a 30"
http://www.aquacave.com/current-usa-30-sundial-br-t-5-fixture-4x24w--led-2362.html
I run the 36" Sundial myself and have been keeping SPS with great results.  There are a few more out there. What you are looking for is a 4 bulb fixture with individual reflectors. The individual reflectors greatly improve the efficiency of each bulb and are a critical component to keeping higher light needing organisms. >
Thanks again.
< You are very welcome. GA Jenkins >

SPS ID/ Lighting 5/24/09 Hello again. < Hello! > Let me just say it's a good thing I work from home, otherwise I'd be fired for spending all day reading articles on your website. < Well don't get fired. It cuts back on the aquarium money! > It's quite addictive. I have a couple more questions for you regarding this coral which is pushing me into the reef world (hadn't planned on keeping corals, but the more I research, the more I want to keep them).  First off, the only T5 light I can afford right now is the Current Nova Extreme T5HO. It has one 24 Watt 10K bulb and one 24 watt 460nm actinic fluorescent bulb. I know this isn't much, but it'll at least help a bit, right? < Its an improvement but not enough. > Also, the manufacturer directions state that it needs to be placed over a glass top; does the glass alter the amount/quality of light going into the water? < Yes, glass tops reflect and distort lighting. > My next question is about the coral's polyps. The only things I see opening and closing on it are little white extensions on the tips of the branches. Are these polyps? < Most likely. > I haven't seen any other sort of extensions on the branches themselves, just lots of bumps, nothing like what I see in pictures online. I've even tried looking a few hours after turning off the lights, and no changes I can see. Would the low lights be affecting this? < Yes. > Would the insufficient lighting also be making the coral spread it's branches out more (it was more upright when I first got it)? < Possibly > Lastly, I've attached a couple of pictures of my coral (sorry for the poor quality) in the hopes that someone can at least tell me if what I have is an Acropora, Montipora, etc, so I can more accurately know it's care requirements, though I understand how hard it is to I'd. coral from not so great pictures. < Hard to tell specifically but definitely an Acropora. Look here for Acro care. http://www.asira.org/acropora> It's very brittle, if that helps at all for identification. Thanks in advance, < The two bulb set up will not be enough lighting. Check your local clubs for used lighting. A four bulb T5 light with individual reflectors would be a minimum. GA Jenkins > Danielle

Re: SPS ID/Lighting 5/24/09 Thanks for all the quick answers. < You're welcome! > Just two more questions (at least for the moment). Should I ignore the manufacturer instructions and mount the fixture on legs and not use a glass top/lid so that I get every bit of light to my coral? Is this safe? < If the instructions say to use over a top , I would do so. It most likely does not have a splash guard and would not be safe run without a top.> And if I were to get another of the same fixtures in the hopefully not too distant future, will there be any heating/electrical issues if I place both fixtures next to each other? < No, they should be fine. This particular fixture does not have the individual reflectors so I cannot say for sure that they would be enough to keep any more than the more moderate light needing animals. GA Jenkins > Thanks again

Scrolling Montipora flow - 02/08/09
I have a red Monti cap and I want it to scroll its a rose form. Currently it is under a 150W 14K HQI bulb. It gets good flow that circles around it.
I've heard that flow/lighting will influence on how this coral will grow. I'm not sure what those influences are though. I was wondering if you could help me out with the subject.
<Mmmm... along with feeding, water quality mostly... the lighting is fine period, the only improvement here would be to have it traverse the surface like our sun... Water movement needs to be vigorous (20 time plus turns per hour), non uni-directional... perhaps Koralias, Vortech, or Tunze Streams on a reversing schedule via a wave maker or other control device. Bob Fenner>

Please Help Me Identify This   6/22/08 I purchased this Acropora at my LFS today. They said that it is a "Deep Water" Acropora <Mmm... is of the genus... but judging by the color, not "very" deepwater> and that even though I only have VHO and T5HO lighting totaling 6.4wpg that I should put it in the middle portion of my tank. Now I am questioning if that is actually true or not. I ended up puttin it in the upper portion of my tank and so far everything is good with full polyp extension, but it has only been a couple hours. I appreciate any help you could give me with identifying this Acropora and if it is indeed a "deep water" species. I attached two pictures of the coral to this email. Thank You. <Wit the stated type and intensity/wattage light I would place, keep this colony where you have placed it... near the waters surface. Wherever the original biomass was collected, the shape, growth, color of this specimen shows that it is "used" to this sort of positioning. Bob Fenner>

Acro Acclimation – 07/03/07
To the crew
I just got back from the frag swap at Drs. Foster and Smith this past weekend and have a few questions concerning acclimating my new beauties.
Here are the specs for my tank.
75 gallon w/30 gallon sump - mag 12 running to four 1/2 inch returns
2 Koralia 3's on opposite sides for flow
Aqua C EV 180
Nitrates - >5ppm
Ph 8.4
temp 77-80
Calcium - 320
KH - 9
Mg - 1300
My concern is really with the light acclimation. I just picked up a nova extreme 8x54 t-5 setup, and picked up a bunch of SPS frags. I already have a couple Monti digi's and caps and a small millie that are doing fine.
Previously I was using a 260w PC fixture but had good growth with all. Okay now to the questions!
I bought a nice staghorn and pink millie from the DFS retail store that were maricultured. Do I need to light acclimate these corals seeing as they were under halides before I got them?
<Not likely, no>
Also with the frags I bought, they have gotten quite pale compared to when they were in the actual traders tanks (all used PC nano tanks). They have only been in my tank for a day, after being in the dark for about two days (Long time)?
<Mmm, no... much more likely "light-stressed" by the move/show at the get-together itself...>
Really I just would like to know is if the light acclimation is really geared towards halides over t-5?
<Mmm, no... much more just intensity differences in most cases>
The new frags are all on the bottom of my tank right now but I'm worried that they aren't getting enough light?
<Possibly... I would move the Acropora spp. "up" to about half depth>
One might already be bleaching out a little bit or is just really pale (Acro yongei), is it better to move it up more or shade it if it is losing color?
<In this circumstance, up>
All but one's polyps are peeking out.
<A good sign>
Also I heard to keep them in more gentle current when acclimating and not the vigorous flow they all like. True?
<Yes>
I'm a paranoid nervous wreck! Please help me and thank you for your time!
Sincerely Mike
<Patience... these 'things' take time. Bob Fenner>

48w 10K 50/50 replaced with SunPod 70W HQI, Sm. SW light/burn episode   7/5/07
Your web site seems to be the most knowledgeable on the net so here goes:
I just replaced 48w 10K 50/50 with SunPod 70W HQI on a 12 gallon nano cube I have established for two years.
The tank primarily contains different soft corals that had blossomed under the 10k 50/50 with coralline algae growing everywhere. Since placing the SunPod on this tank (only two days), everything seems wilted and is not as vibrant and alive as before.
<Ah, yes... a lack of photo adaptation... All "burned">
Please advise.
My goal was to remove the canopy and add a little extra light. I'm not sure what is happening but want to get advise.
thanks, Philip
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm
and the linked files above... And elsewhere (learn to/use the indices, search tool) re lighting small marine systems. Bob Fenner>

Re: 48w 10K 50/50 replaced with SunPod 70W HQI, Sm. SW light/burn episode  7/5/07
thanks for the prompt and excellent response. I think I may have caught this just in time.
<Ah, good>
On a good note, early this AM I peeked in the tank and noticed all the corals looks fantastic under the blue nocturnal lighting. This led me to believe the lighting was proving to be too much for them. I have adjusted the light to only run in small increments today. This will hopefully help until I get to implement some of the recommendations in your article.
thanks again, Philip Johnston
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>

Keeping Acros Under PC Lights & Poor Water Parameters  4/29/07
Dear WWM members,
Hi everyone, my name is Peter.
<Hi Peter, Jeni/Pufferpunk here>
First, I want to say thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I have been viewing this site many times. I have a few questions on Acropora Spp. I have a 90 us gal tank. In there I have:
75 pounds of live rock (Fiji, Lalo, Tonga)
<It is recommended to keep 1-1 1/2 pounds of live rock per gallon.>
1 young Yellow Tang
1 young Hippo Tang
1 young  Sailfin Tang
3 False-Percula Clownfish
2 Blue-green Chromis
1 Scooter Blenny
1 Blue Damsel
1 Green Bubble Tip Anemone
many hermit crabs and snails
<That's a lot of tangs for a 90g.  It's usually best to keep only 1 tang per tank.  Have you researched their adult size?  The scooter blenny needs a long-established tank (at least a year) including a refugium, so there are enough live pods for it to eat.  Otherwise, it will starve.  Also, Percs are best kept in pairs.  When they mature, there will be fights between the 3.>
My tank has been running for about 6 months. I was wondering if I could successfully keep a couple Acropora clusters. My lighting is an Orbit 4x130 watt Power Compact. As for my water quality: ammonia-0.25 nitrite-0.1 and ph-8.2.  Any advise and info would be great.
<With what you paid for that lighting system, you would have been much better off with T5s.  PC lighting is borderline, with acros.  The ideal conditions for the Acropora coral is an established reef aquarium with bright lighting provided by preferably intense metal halides. They can thrive under multiple T-5 or compact fluorescents if placed high in the aquarium.  I did keep a green slimer up high, for about 6 months under PCs but it didn't grow.  To maximize their growth rate, it is imperative to maintain a high pH, alkalinity and calcium levels and to keep phosphate and nitrate levels as close to zero as possible.  Along with lighting and water quality, Acropora corals prefer strong, intermittent water flow within the aquarium. This is best accomplished with a wavemaker (I use a SeaSwirl) and multiple powerheads.  Acropora corals receive a majority of their nutritional requirements from photosynthesis but will benefit from the addition of various types of phyto and zooplankton.
  Your larger worries here are your water parameters.  Ammonia & nitrites are extremely toxic to fish & even worse for corals.  They must be kept at 0 at all times.  What are your nitrates?  They also should be as close to 0 as possible for corals and below 20 for fish. How long did you wait for the tank to cycle?  Have you added any live rock lately?  Either your tank is overstocked, you are over-feeding, you are not using a good skimmer You added uncured rock or you need to add a refugium.  (I had trouble keeping my nitrates below 40 before I added a refugium.  Now they are undetectable.)  Get that all straightened out for considering adding anything to your tank.  ~PP>
Peter Choo

Monticap, not Monty Hall  - 03/12/07
Dear Sir,
<Ernest>
I am just starting on having an SPS dominated tank in my 120gallon reef tank. 48 inch length x 30 inch high x 20 inch wide.
<Okay>
The tank has been set up for about 3 months with initial growth of coralline algae showing up. (I believe its good news).
<Yes... generally indicative of full-cycling, suitable habitat...>
Tank parameters are on par.
<Fore!>
And I have just purchased a monticap (very small ~ 2 inch wide). Which has been in my tank for 3 days now.
<For others... this is some sort of new-reef-speak for a species of Acroporid, Montipora capricornis>
My lighting is 400W 12000K Metal Halide, I've placed my monticap halfway up the tank so around 20 inch into the water.
My question would be, for SPS and this monticap, how deep would I be able to place them in the water before its not good for them? MH height is 20 inch from water.
<Mmm, really depends on what species, and more importantly, what conditions they were living under recently (and to a lesser extent what conditions from some time back...). In practical terms, better to start most deeper... raise up to shallower in weeks time... to prevent "burning"/bleaching, stress>
I have a Tunze WaveBox for flow, would adding Tunze stream 6100 be better or 6200 ?
<Mmm, the more the merrier in the way of flow>
Also after 3 days I do not see much polyp extension on the monticap, would this be a cause for concern?
<Mmm, nope... too short a period of time as yet to have become acclimated... and don't have much in the way of polyp extension at any length...>
There was some slight damage on it when I first got it, i.e. some small broken tissue, but it was a cheap pieces so I bought it.
Further I am planning on introducing grape Caulerpa into the sump as a natural filtration media, would that be advised?
<Mmm, no... best to look around for other genera, even Division (Reds, Rhodophytes)...>
There's no Chaeto in Hong Kong (where I live).
Best Regards,
Ernest
<Mmm, please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
The tray with Stony Corals... Scleractinians... Bob Fenner>

Encrusting Montipora sys.   12/15/06
Hi Crew,
<Tom>
I have an established, 120G 2 year old reef with various healthy and growing SPS colonies.  I'd like to fill in some color on the live rock with various frags of colorful, encrusting Montipora.  To give the Montipora frags the best chance of growing quickly and covering the rock, should I scrub clean the rock area with a brush, or will the Montipora grow over the life on the rock just as well?  By life, I mean a little micro algae, tube worms, coralline, etc.
Thanks,
Tom
<Interesting question... I do suspect that the more "scrubbed" rock might well offer a better substrate here... but would ask that you try an experiment with making a sketch of the areas in your system where you do/don't scrub and report back re which ones appeared to have an "easier" time of colonization. Bob Fenner>

Nano Lighting For Acropora  6/15/06
I have a 14gal nano with 2x 55w power compact 50/50 10,000k/actinic plus a NO 18w fluoro. I would like to get a small Acropora frag to put high in the rockwork in around 4" of water.
I have been getting mixed info from different sites as to whether this lighting will do, (mostly from guys who will only use MH) but have seen examples of it working.
Stable water parameters and supplements aside,
1) will it work?
<Should>
2) will I be able to run the 18w as actinic for aesthetics or should I run a 6.5k for better health and growth?
<The actinic will be fine.>
3) when I replace the globes would I be better off with a dual daylight 6.5k/10k and a actinic as well as the 18w? (I stuffed up the globe order the first time)
<If using the 18 watt actinic, I'd go with two 10K's.>   
I have had a bit of trouble finding a definitive answer.
Thanks
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Scotty

Lighting For SPS....Buying the right light  - 5/17/2006
Hello crew,
<Hi Tim>
First off I want to thank you guys for taking the time to look at this e-mail.  I am trying to get the right light for my reef tank.  I am planning on upgrading to metal halide lighting.  My display is a 75 gallon tank that measures 48" long x 18" wide x 18" deep (from the sand).  I already have a couple acropora frags as well as two Stylophora pistillata specimens.  This is the kind of coral which I primarily wish to house.  I plan on using balanced lighting, most probably in the form of both 10,000K and 20,000K bulbs.  I was looking at a fixture that has two 250 watt HQI and one 150 watt HQI and assume that this would be overkill as it comes out to well over 8 watts/gallon.
<More than needed.> Another fixture I saw had two 150 watt HQI and one 70 watt HQI.  This comes out to almost 5 watts/gallon which I believe is close to a good target value.  Is this correct.  Will this second fixture be sufficient for the more light hungry acropora that I wish to grow?  
<Tim, with your 18" deep tank, I'd feel more comfortable with three 150 HQI's for the light loving corals you intend on keeping.>   
  Also, I was wondering if you guys have any preference in fixture brands?  
<I think Current USA makes a nice fixture for the money. In bulb brands?
<I like Ushio lamps.>  I know that some metal halide bulbs are clearly better for gardening and was wondering if the same holds true in reefkeeping.  
<Some brands such as Ushio have a more accurate color temperature and a little more intensity.  You may want to check this company out.  They carry the new
Odyssea light fixtures that I've heard are nicely built and a bargain.  There is an error on this link, they state three 175 HQI but I'm sure they are 150's as I
have never saw 175 HQI's.  See here...http://www.aquatraders.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=275  Do keep in mind I have had no experience dealing
with Aqua Traders.> Thanks for the suggestions.
Thanks for the help,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Tim

Lighting For Montipora digitata - 12/31/05
HI Bob,
<<EricR here today...>>
Hope this email finds you well.
<<I am, thank you>>
You may not remember, but we had discussed the proper housing of Anthias, in particular the squamipinnis with the purple eyes (lyre tail) and your suggestion of 1 per 50 gallons or 1 per 15 seems to be working well!  I have 3 females in a 150 and so far none have changed to male and are fed 2 to 3 times a day and seem to
be doing well.
<<Interesting that none have started to change.  I had two females in a 375 and the dominant female began to change in just a couple weeks...though this was quickly reversed with the introduction of two full-blown males...but enough about me <grin>.>>
Thank you.  That was a little off the main reason to email you, but just wanted to thank you.
<<That Bob is a pretty smart fella.>>
Now here is the deal.  I purchased a couple Montipora
digitata in green and purple.  Colors went to brown (though the green which was aquacultured kept the color to a certain degree)  when I moved to my 150, I know I need to upgrade my lighting to bring out the colors in these cool SPS.  Here is the confusing part.  I have CP that are 8 months old, with 2 10k and 2 actinic.
<<Best to go all 10K here, though at 65w (read ahead) you'll need to keep the bulbs close to the water's surface, and the Montipora in the top third of the tank.>>
I am going to be replacing them and use the sunscreen method of acclimation.  Now I read that you can just change the lights at night and in the morning they may all recoil, but adjust eventually.
<<Mmm, no...you still need/is best to acclimate over several days.>>
I thought the light shock would kill them, but I read they just look crappy for a short time and adjust......your thoughts?
<I don't agree with this.  While many corals can/will make the adjustment, you are submitting them to unnecessary stress that can kill more sensitive species.>>
Next, I wanted to add a spectrum to bring out the color (maybe new
lights would do it) and I talked to and read a TON of things and the range of advice and suggestions are so different, I decided to email you.
<<And with all that reading you should have found that more than lighting effects coral color...though an increase in intensity will likely help you with the Montipora you mention.>>
One person said use a 20k with my 10k and actinic.  Another says
do NOT use 20K just use a 3rd 03 actinic.  Then I read that 6500k is what they want for color.  WHO IS RIGHT?????
<<Everybody...nobody...many times it comes down to the individuals own sense of aesthetics.>>
I am going nuts here! lol!
<<Understood>>
I am going to order 2 96w to retrofit with my 2 65w 10k and 2 65w
actinic.  I am just moving everything close to the surface (I do not want to get into MH, or HQI, sorry)
<<ok>>
What would your suggestion be to the color temps?
<<10K...contains plenty (more than enough) light in the blue spectrum for the coral's use without making your tank look like Papa Smurf peed in it.>>
One person said make the 2 96w actinic, one said make them 20K and another article says 6500K!  I have a 6500K 500 watt CF over my Heteractis magnifica and he seems pretty happy.
<<Yes, the 6.5K bulbs generally produce more PAR per watt...are also considered the best spectrum for coral growth.>>
Should I try and see if putting them under the 6500k would work? (only 84 CRI, so my anemone is at the surface right under)
<<Up to you>>  
NOW I did put a green zoanthid under the 6500k and it turned brown
until I moved it away. (obviously the symbiotic zooxanthellae over producing)
<<yes>>
BUT it seems that does not apply to the Montipora........that turning brown/tan means not enough light?
<<Is likely, yes>>
I am very confused, please let me know soon, as I want to put an order in for the right lights.
<<10K gets my vote...>>
Take care!
Carrie :)
<<Regards, EricR>>

Re: Lighting For Montipora digitata - 01/01/06
Eric,
<<Carrie>>
Thanks for the reply!  Especially on a Saturday you devoted web media crew member, you! lol!
<<Hee! That Bob is a real slave driver <JK> >>
First about the Anthias.......which species do you have?
<<Same as you...Pseudanthias squamipinnis>>
Bob's web page, Saltcorner.com, or his contribution to it, was
what made me make the decision to even try them.  Mine is Bob's
favorite, Pseudanthias squamipinnis.
<<Hmm, I wonder if you have your "Bobs" confused?  The "Bob" at Saltcorner.com is Bob Goemans...the "Bob" associated here (WWM) is Bob Fenner...>>
Problem being, someone buying many females and one male and the male dying, next female changing to male, THEN dying, until all dead.  This is the case with many of the Anthias from what I read.
<<But for a few species, most do seem to be inappropriate for the average home aquarist.  Either we just don't know enough about their nutritional requirements or they don't/can't tolerate the rigors of capture/transportation.>>
That is why I emailed Bob.
<<Ah, but which Bob? <grin> >>
So my 3 girls were in a 60 gallon for 3 weeks (with all the LR it was like 15 gallons each!) then a 150 so far for 2 weeks.  None have changed and seem about the same size.
<<Mmm...perhaps these are all juvenile fish?...possibly too small yet to change...>>
Now I don't know if this way LETS one of the females change to a male on its own thus preventing deaths??  Not sure exactly the reason for the formula.....maybe Bob can enlighten both of us.
<<I don't believe the "formula" has anything to do with sexing these fish.  I think Bob's intent was to provide a guideline to ensure a tank of proper size for the number of fish kept.  Regardless of tank size, the most dominant female will become male when mature enough.>>
On to the lighting......thanks for adding to the confusion! lol!  Just kidding!
<<Agreed <G>, much to consider (coral specie, depth of occurrence, etc.)...and no 'one' perspective can cover all.>>
One article I read was that the TRUE actinic 03 was NEEDED for coral growth as it simulates dawn and dusk which is the optimum time for spawning/growth etc.
<<The so called "dawn/dusk" cycle is more for the aquarist than the coral, though it can/does help with easing fishes to bed.  Bear in mind that very little we do/can do with our tanks truly simulates nature...luckily these animals we keep are very adaptable.  But saying that, the dawn/dusk cycle is fine if you wish to have one, but as an add-on, not as a partial replacement to existing lighting.>>
This is why I got 2 10k and 2 actinic.  
<<Too much actinic in my opinion.  Better to go 3 to 1 respectively.>>
Now I have already ordered and got lamps for 8.50 each!
<<Cheap!>>
On line Innovativelights.com.  I know you cannot put that in your web page,
<<Sure we can.>>
but for you personally, and the rest of the crew...enjoy!
<<Thanks!>>
Okay now as for the 20k.......what is your thought on that?
<<Thought I did in the previous email...too blue for my taste on a general scale...does not provide a true color rendering.  If you were keeping deep-water corals the 20K would be fine, but it has much more blue in the spectrum than your SPS need/require...and just maybe...not enough in the red/yellow spectrum for optimum health/vigor.>>
Isn't the 20k so close to actinic anyhow?
<<Not really, no.  Some good reading here, and among the indices in blue: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/actinicfaqs.htm >>
I do LOVE how my corals glow at dawn and dusk with the actinic!
<<Many folks do!>>
I would like to see that a little more, esp., if the digitata favored it.
<<Mmm...sounds like you might be better of with deeper water LPS/Corallimorphs than SPS...>>
I think Papa Smurf has magic pee if he can make corals glow! lol!!!!
<<Ha!...not magic, but does give all a blue cast...>>
I just want the light that is the most beneficial,
<<Then you need move toward a natural daylight spectrum.>>
so I had already bought 3 6500k  65w (gives off 500
watts, but only 84 CRI.....how deep would that penetrate the water?
<<Depends <G>...water clarity/height of bulb above the water/age of bulbs...all things being optimum, should work fine for an 18" deep tank with higher light demanding species in the top half of the tank.>>
I know I am moving the corals up) fixtures based on my research for optimum growth.  Here is the problem as I see it...... 6500k makes for more algae
<<That should tell you something about spectrum and growth potential.>>
and besides, are the Montis a shallow or deep coral?
<<Is generally found in shallow reef environments/mud flats.  I have green, purple, and German blue M. digitata and orange M. foliosa under 250w 10K metal halides.  All express their best color and most vigorous growth under intense lighting.  The blue digitata in particular will "brown out" under the slightest bit of shading.>>
If so, wouldn't the 6500k be the wrong spectrum?
<<Is "perfect" actually.  Even the 6.5K contains plenty of "blue" light for the corals needs.>>
I guess you are saying use 10k in all 4 65W and BOTH 96W?
<<Would be "optimum" in my opinion, yes.>>
I really would like the dawn/dusk for them.  Maybe 2 65W actinic, 2 65W 10k, and 2 96W 10K?
<<This is a viable alternative.>>
What is all the hype about the 20k????
<<s you have already noticed/stated...makes the corals glow/look more blue.>>
My thoughts were to put 2 20k for the 96w.
<<Not the best option for your SPS.>>
Sorry to make you crazy, just paying you back! lol!  kidding,
kidding........
<<Tee hee!  No worries mate, was/is an enjoyable exchange.>>
Have a great weekend and if possible have Bob read this to see what his thoughts are.
<<Don't trust me eh? (kidding you back <G>).  Bob (Fenner) may be able to CC Bob Goemans re.>> >Will gladly send her's to BobG if requested. RMF<
Take Care!
Carrie :)
<<Regards, EricR>>

Montipora sp. tank 8/13/05
Dear WWM crew,
  I am planning on setting up my 40 breeder (36X18X16) as a Montipora sp.
tank. I just wanted to run some equipment by you and to if I'm on the right track.
My tank is not drilled, so a continuous siphon overflow (1400 gph) with a  960
gph Iwaki MD pump. I have been inspired by J. Sprung's refugia and want to
run a miracle mud sump either 24X10X12 or 30X12X16.
<The bigger...>
I plan on using a 4X96w
Orbit P.C. fixture over the tank. I am uncertain of which protein skimmer to use.
Any suggestions?
<Likely an Aqua-C product. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aquacskimrfaqs.htm>
Thanks a lot. Your site is like an oasis in the hobby.
Sincerely,
Mike
<Ah, wish we were having some tall, cool ones about the oasis... Bob Fenner>

Nano Acroporas & clams
Good morning crew
<Alex>
Do you guys know If I can have Acroporas & clams in my 10 gall nano reef system ?  I'm running It with 8 watts per gall with a Rio 600 pump. I know I should not have a problem with light & flow, but my LFS told me it could not be done. Clams yes Acroporas no. I know Acros are very aggressive so I should provide a lot of distance from each other.  What do you guys think?
Thank you for your time!
<Mmm, can be done... but not easily... by "clams" I take it you mean Tridacnids... get too big... and Acroporas generally require high and consistent water quality... difficult to achieve in such a small volume... though possible, have seen done. Bob Fenner>

Montipora Trouble
Hi gang,
Quick question (hopefully). I am on my third frag of a very hard to get but popular purple Montipora frag. For some reason, I keep bleaching them. At first I thought it was because I put them about 6" off the bottom immediately after receiving them, and wasn't putting them low enough and letting them acclimate to the light. However, when I received the third frag, I put it all the way on the bottom of the tank, right on the sand. It still didn't help, as one corner turned brown then bleached. However, the middle to left part of the frag is still purple, but I fear the browning and then bleaching is spreading. I had it on the bottom, somewhat under a rock for some shade. Panicking, I moved it up a couple of inches several days after being on the bottom to try and save the frag. What am I doing wrong?
My lighting is as follow: 2x250W 10K MH, with one 400W 13K bulb in the middle. Then there are 2x96W PC actinics. I put the coral under the 250W MH, not the 400W.
This doesn't seem to happen with my Acro frags, which I've done okay with. It only seems to happen with the Montipora frags. Any thoughts?
>>>Hi Brandon,
Doesn't sound like a lighting issue to me, but more of a current or water quality issue. Check your parameters and make sure you have decent current where you're placing this frag. Also, are you sure this frag was grown under lower lighting? If not, check into this.
Cheers
Jim<<<

Too much Lighting?
Every time I buy a frag of a Montipora coral, they turn brown? Too much lighting? What would cause this strange phenomenon? Most are purple to start with.
<Several factors could be influencing this color change. High Nitrate levels, which act as a sort of fertilizer for brown zooxanthellae, could easily be the cause, as could old bulbs or low lighting. Hope this helps, mike G> 

Water Movement For Acropora
Hello,
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
Do Acroporas do better with a direct flow of one power head or with 2 - 125gph Power Sweep power heads? I have a 10 gall nano reef tank with 1 Acro with plenty of room for more! What do you guys think? Thanks for your time!
<Well, most of the Acropora that favor high flow will benefit from randomized, indirect flow. Laminar flow directly into a coral can literally peel the tissue right off of the colony. Better to use those Power Sweep powerheads, or even some sort of rotating return device, like the wonderful Sea Swirls! HTH! Regards, Scott F.>

- Acropora Losing Color -
Hello,
When I got this Acro it was light brown with purple tips AWESOME! But I have noticed that Its purple tips has been fading away in time. And now the coral It's just light brown. I'm running my 10 gall nano tank with 8 watts per gallon with power compacts. And my water quality is perfect! My LFS said that for Acros I need metal high lights to keep those colors alive and bright is that true? 
<Quite often yes... what is not always obvious to aquarists is where there coral came from, the light the coral is accustomed to. In the tropics where stony corals are prevalent, the sun just bakes... is very, very intense; aquarium lighting is not even an approximate substitute. The browning of your Acropora is typically indicative of inadequate lighting.> 
I also have two awesome looking clams on the sand bed and they have not lost their beautiful color with my power compacts, what could this be? 
<Unless you've had these clams for several years, I would not use their color or current state as any judge of lighting intensity or even their health... clams can look excellent right up to the day before they die.> 
I have my Acro as close to the light as possible and my calcium reads at 450 ppm. I even have a power sweep power head for some wave action. Is there anything else I can do to get those colors back? 
<More intense light.> 
I've just started DT'S live marine as well for my clams that I've had for 5 months and Kent marine Tech 1 Iodine for my other corals. 
<This is a lighting issue and not an additive one.>
Thanks for your time
<Cheers, J -- > 

Lighting Acropora
Good Afternoon Mr. Scott
<Hello again!>
SORRY for so many questions but you give the best advice!!!
<Never apologize! Thanks for the undeserved compliment...We have a lot more talented people here on WWM than myself, but I'm happy that I've been able to help you!>
Color changing Acropora... I'm running a 10 gall nano reef tank with 24 hour Orbit lighting system with 8 watts per gallon. When I got a Tri-color Acropora from my L.F.S it was nice light brown with dark purple tips and yellow polyps...AWESOME!!!
<Sounds hot!>
But I have notice when my day lights come on the purple gets real light and the polyps retract. And when my day lights come off the purple gets really dark again and the polyps come out. Is this the norm? What could this be?
<Certainly a relatively normal behavior for a coral. Many corals will display day-night polyp retraction. Feeding occurs at night with many corals, and the colony is merely exercising its natural "rhythm". This would be an opportune time to feed the coral..>
I have her on top of my live rock close to light as much as possible. Do you think is to close to the light? Should I move her down a bit? My L.F.S. said that is perfectly normal.
<I don't think that the reaction you are seeing is a negative one. It's irresponsible for me to generalize, but many Acropora do have very high lighting requirements. On the other hand, it is important to slowly acclimate a coral to its new lighting regime to avoid shocking the coral. Do see Anthony Calfo's excellent piece on acclimating corals for more.>
Thanks so much for your time.
<You're quite welcome! Regards, Scott F.> 

Acropora reef tank Lighting  3/10/05 
Hello Anthony, It's me again! Sorry, for asking so many questions, but the advice is just sooo good! haha.. 
<no worries... my pleasure>
Ok... I've been checking up on different types of fluorescent tubes to use and I still can't find the kind you're talking about in VHO format. 
<just ask the sales rep for a warm daylight colored lamp my friend. If they do not have one around 7K with a CRI rating over 90, then someone else will... do keep shopping :)>
I looked on the URI site and they have a "Aquasun" bulb, however, this is rated as a 10k bulb. Are you speaking of a different bulb all together? Anyways, I read a plug in CMA about Vita-Lite Bulbs made by Durotest. These bulbs sound killer as far as specs go... but they don't offer them in VHO format. 
<the company is gone... sadly>
Do you think if I ran their standard output bulbs on a digital ballast they'd put out enough light? Any suggestions would be great...Sorry to sound so redundant but I want to make sure I'm catching your drift. I mean lighting is pretty important...Wouldn't ya say?!?
<actually... corals are highly adaptable over a very wide range of lighting. Within reason, I'd put lighting behind water flow and feeding for coral health and growth>
You said Acros need a lot of flow...but GEEEZ!! I didn't think you needed as much flow as you're talking about. 30x turn over?...
<actually... for Acropora, many enthusiasts run towards 60X turnover (diffused). The shallow reefs covered in Acropora are very dynamic environments>
Well, that doesn't sound ludicrous at all, but in order for me to have that much flow I'd have to add an extra Iwaki 30rlt on a closed loop. That'd be a 70rt and a 30rlt.....Phew that's a lot of flow in there. Oh.. one thing I was thinking of is, if I were to do this extra pump would it be a good idea to have it on a timer to turn off during the night? 
<it's a terrible idea, mate... most tanks simply don't have anything near enough flow like on a reef>
This pump would be on a closed loop so I could turn it off for about 6hrs in the middle of the night. This could simulate gentle nighttime currents? 
<bull pucky>
My concern is that the pump would be garbage in short order with all that on/off hoopla...ooookk I do believe I'm done for today. Once again thanks for the time and sound advice. Chris
<always welcome :) Anthony>