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FAQs about Health/Diseases, Pests of Soft
Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae 8
FAQs on Alcyoniid Disease:
Alcyoniid Health 1,
Alcyoniid Disease
2,
Alcyoniid Disease 3,
Alcyoniid Disease
4, Alcyoniid
Disease 5, Alcyoniid
Disease 6, Alcyoniid
Disease 7, Alcyoniid
Disease 9, Alcyoniid Health 10,
Alcyoniid Disease
11, Alcyoniid
Health 12, Alcyoniid Disease 13,
Alcyoniid Disease
14, Alcyoniid
Disease 15, Alcyoniid Disease ,
FAQs on
Alcyoniid Disease by Category:
Diagnosis,
Environment,
Nutritional, Pathogenic (Infectious,
parasitic), Predator/Pests,
Social, Trauma,
Treatments
Related Articles: Soft Corals of the Family
Alcyoniidae
Related FAQs: Soft Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae,
Alcyoniids 2, Alcyoniids 3, Alcyoniids 4, Alcyoniid ID, Alcyoniid Selection, Alcyoniid Compatibility, Alcyoniid Systems, Alcyoniid Behavior, Alcyoniid Feeding, Alcyoniid Propagation, Soft Coral Propagation, Soft Coral Health, Dyed Corals, Soft Coral Propagation, Nephtheids, Dendronephthya, Paralcyoniids, Nidaliids, Xeniids, Dyed
Corals,
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| Sinularia dura looking bad
5/3/07 Hi Crew, <Jason> I have a Sinularia dura
that's been in my tank for over a year and a half (came with my
first LR). It has been doing well all this time, but for the past 2
weeks (about) parts of it have been looking bad -- no polyp
extension I can see, crusty-looking surface. All my water
parameters are in line except a somewhat low alkalinity of 7.5. All
of the other corals in the tank look normal. <When, where in
doubt... Water changes, added circulation, cleaning up of your
skimmer... if necessary/practical, moving the specimen/s> One
thing to note is that I have a fair amount of green hair algae.
<Ahh... perhaps a clue... as do dis-improving water quality...
Tests?> I've been trying to remove it slowly through
siphoning and water changes. Here are two pictures, hopefully these
will help. In this first one, you can see the left-most
"horn" looks good, with polyps and a translucent pink
color. The others have no polyps and look duller. http://picasaweb.google.com/jasonm1/AquariumLife/photo#5060129994889755474
This one is taken from a different viewpoint, where you can see the
top surface of the coral better. http://picasaweb.google.com/jasonm1/AquariumLife/photo#5060129831680998210
Thanks! Jason <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alcyondisfaqs.htm and the
linked files above. Bob Fenner> |
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| Shrunk mushroom, missing information on water
parameters -- 04/29/07 I have looked and looked, but find no
answer to my question. I just bought a leather mushroom, he looked
fine in the store, I got him home, let him get use to the tank, and
now his trunk has shrunk and the mushroom part of him is just lying
on the bottom of the tank, the "stem" looks gray, black
and brown. When I first introduced him into the tank he let out
lots of white stuff. Now some of the white stuff is just stuck to
the side of him. Is he dying? <Possible, but maybe he is only
cleaning himself and needs a day or two to recover.> My water is
great, ph, N3 <no such molecule in aquaria if at all. You mean
ammonia, nitrates?> so on so forth. I also have 4 live rock
inside my 45 gallon tank, and anemone (sp) tomato clown. I placed
the mushroom on the bottom, because I read that they don't need
to be close to the lights, which mine are high wattage for the live
rock. <I'd put him onto a piece of rock. You can fix him
with a toothpick if necessary.> Does my new mushroom need time
to recover or do you think he's dead? <You state your water
is great, but what is great for one species can kill another. Check
nitrates (<20), phosphates (<0.6), pH (8.0-8.4) and SG
(1.022-1.026). Nitrites and ammonia need to be absent. If all
parameters are ok, he may recover soon. A water change probably
won't hurt, too. Read http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corallim.htm and the FAQs for
more information. Cheers, Marco.> |
| Re: Shrunk mushroom, missing information on water
parameters II -- 04/30/07 The Leather Mushroom is attached to a
rock that the man at the pet store broke down before I bought it.
<I see. From your last mail (without picture) it seemed you were
talking about a Corallimorph aka Mushroom, which have a small stem,
too. Now I see you have a Sarcophyton sp. aka Mushroom aka Leather
Coral. Another example, why the use of scientific names should be
preferred.> So, its on a small piece of rock. <Okay.> To
me he looks horrible, let me attach a picture of him for you and
you tell me what you think. <Just what was suggested in the last
mail: check those water parameters. If they are okay, and the brown
on the stem continues to spread, cut away the 'head' (which
seems quite fine) and fix it onto a new piece of rock with a
toothpick, and remove the brown stem. Don't cut it until you
are sure your water is fine. See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alcyoniidsii.htm and the
related FAQs on health and disease.> Thanks Rhonda. <Cheers,
Marco.> |
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Crack in Soft Coral -- 4/13/07 Hey! Great site.
<Thanks!> I was just wondering I bought a devils hand leather and
just noticed as its starting to open there all cracks there the fingers
attach to it. I think it may have been
dropped. Inside the bag of course not just the coral hitting
the ground. I notice the guy drop it and I didn't say
anything thinking he wouldn't sell it to me if it was serious.. I
know him good <Well too!>. I didn't notice the damage till
now. And I feel bad calling him. Will this coral heal
itself? <Possibly, though probably better to just frag
it.> It's not like anything is hanging off. It's just split
slightly in about 4 spots. Is it toast? <Nah, never
toast. More here on fragging: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corlpropfaqs.htm
and related links in blue> should I say something? <You're
decision.> thank you <Welcome! -Mich> <Please I
not I and the first letter of each sentence is capitalized!>
Leathers flaking away 4/13/07 I have
recently purchased two new leathers, one green and purple finger
leather and a colt leather. The colt is drooped over changing color
from dark to light purple and also appears to be separating itself from
the rock it was attached to, should I be concerned or take any action I
have only had it for about a week? <This is a bad sign, I would
attempt to remove this coral to a separate tank, using the same tank
water then altering this slowly afterwards. Also, there are likely
common scavengers -- crabs etc - that will soon start pulling this
apart when they discover it> My main concern lies with the finger
leather, the coral seems to be flaking apart but its color has not
changed much, today I was scraping algae from the front glass and the
bottom stalk actually fell right off the base of this coral seems to be
completely flaking apart is this coral doomed and what could have
caused this I have other corals that have been thriving. <It sounds
like you have a lot of necrotic tissue present around the coral's
base. Probably due to over-handling (contact with hands etc), also how
did you acclimate this coral? As for both to be purchased at the same
time and both have the same problem an acclimation procedure may be
partially to blame. I would 'frag' this coral immediately to
have hope of saving at least a percentage of it. 'Have a VERY sharp
razor blade or scalpel ready. A needle with clean nylon thread (or
fishing line) ready and waiting to stitch too. Also a piece of small
rock or rubble as well. Move 3/4-1" above the highest necrotic
area of the base of the stalk. Cut clean and fast through the animal.
You must wear gloves and keep the procedure down to a minimum time of
handling. After the cut, look at the exposed trunk and be sure that you
cleared the soft and necrotic area... if so, run a stitch or two
through the base (no more than an inch from the bottom) and tie it off
to a piece of rock. Return it to the exact same place it was in the
tank and do not touch it for weeks. Maintain strong water flow and very
aggressive skimming in the tank. Small daily doses of iodine may be
therapeutic for the tank too (not extra iodine... just your weekly dose
broken down to daily).' -- Thanks to Anthony for that explanation.
Also see here - http://www.wetwebmedia.com/softcorhealth.htm> Water
tem 78-79 kH 8 Ca is high over 520 Nitrates are low <Figures
needed> Nitrites 0 Salinity .029 I know is high <Would lower to
nearer NSW - .026> 3 watts per gal t5 72 gal bow Two opposing Seio
820 powerheads <More reading needed, this a common problem with this
common species with a common answer commonly available. Also please
spell check and punctuate all sentences. Olly>
pH/Finger Leather, Coral Health 4/12/07 Hi there
Crew, <Hello Michelle> First, let me thank you for the amazing
website. I have spent many an hour cruising your site. (I did look for
answers before asking) : ) I started a 55 gal saltwater tank 5 weeks
ago. I have 55 lbs LR, and live sand 40 lbs. I use R/O water w/Kent
Marine Salt mix. I have a light w/high output florescent, blue actinics and a moon light setting. <Knowing the wattage
helps.> My lighting cycle is 12 hrs on, 12 off. I do 5% water
changes twice a week. My filter is a Freedom Flow, rated to
90 gals, and I have two Maxi jets, a 900 & 1200. My stats:
<Parameters> Salinity: 1.024, PH: 8.0, Nitrates: 0, Nitrites: 0,
GK: <GK?.. dKH?> 11 and Ammonia: 0. Tank inhabitants: 1 Turbo
Snail, 1 Scarlet Shrimp, 3 Hermit Crabs, 4 Green Chromis, 2 Percula
Clowns (tank raised), 2 Fire Fish Gobies, 1 Starry Dragonet and 1
Copper Banded Butterfly. Invertebrates: 1 Branching Hammer soft coral
and 1 Finger Leather. Oh, and a bunch of
Caulerpa. -Whew, I think that's it....
<Way too many fish for your 55. The Copper Band was not a
good choice if you are new at this. More than likely will no
be around long.> Sorry to be long winded, but I want you to have the
info, hopefully I "said" it right. First
question: My pH, I can't seem to get it higher than 8.0.
<Not surprising with your fish load.> Now, I own
Bob's book (awesome!!!) and I have been adding, for three weeks, 2
teaspoons of baking soda. Yet this doesn't seem to make a
difference. I followed his directions and add it straight to the filter
and only at the water changes. I read the FAQ on pH and I noticed that
one guy said 1 teaspoon per gallon, but I thought Bob said 1 teasp per
10 gals??? What should I do? I don't want to harm
any of my creatures. <Really need to test dKH with a quality test
kit, and then add a little of the buffer daily (one tablespoon per 10
gallons will work), then test dKH the following day. A good
level to maintain is 8-12 dKH.> Is 8.0 ok? <Not bad,
but you can help this matter by reducing your fish
load.> Second question: My Hammer is flourishing!
Yay! But my Finger Leather is not. The darn LFS said to put
him in low flow, so I tried that, but he didn't seem to like it.
Plus I read on FAQ that he should be in high flow, so I moved him.
Finger guy is now right up on my the top of my rocks, about 6 - 7
inches from my light. He's in a high flow area. He shed a bunch of
mucous-y stuff, but his polyps don't really come out. <They do
go through this process. If things are normal, it will
re-bloom soon.> Today I woke up and one "branch" is
squished down, while the other is just kind of dark. Some polyps out,
but not many. The Finger is no where near the Hammer. I add Iodine
& Phyto-Plankton once a week. What am I doing wrong? <The Copper
Band is a notorious coral eater, surprised your LFS sold you this
knowing you have corals. He is most likely the bulk of the
problem and should be removed and taken back to the dealer or find a
good home for it.> BTW, the local LFS said I didn't need a
heater. My tank temp runs about 80-82. <Where do you
live? What is your ambient night time temperature?> I am
actually a bit frustrated with the local LFS 's around here
(there's three) I get conflicting info from each of them, sometimes
from employee's within the store! LOL Ack!
<Working at a fish store does not necessarily mean he/she is a
knowledgeable person in this field.> Oh also I had to say, no one
told me about the possibility of getting Sea Stars with your LR! They
said to watch for other stuff. But I found one, how cool is
that!!!!! I love my tank and want to do the right thing.
Thank you so much for your help and advice! You guys rock!!
<Definitely more reading/learning for you Michelle.> Sincerely,
<James (Salty Dog)> Michelle
Re: pH/Finger Leather/Coral Health
4/13/07 James (Salty Dog), Thank you so much for your reply.
<You're welcome.> Yes, I agree more reading is in order for
me, however, what do you recommend, as I have read Mr. Fenner's
Conscientious Aquarist, and I read each as much as I can on Wet Web.
<Plenty to read on this site. Have you read our articles
in our emag, Conscientious Aquarist? Do browse/read through
all the archives here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I2/Cover/cover.htm Another
good book is Michael Paletta's "Modern Reef
Aquarium". This book is geared for novice aquarists
such as yourself, and has sold over 110,000 copies.> I also agree
with you on my local LFS, as yes, they sold my family the Finger
Leather and Butterfly. (The fish was a present from my daughter who
went with out me) I called the LFS to find out what they fed
her, they said Mysis Shrimp. But, no, she died this AM <Didn't
think this fish would last long. A difficult one to keep for
newbies and experienced alike. I would hate to think of how
many of these beautiful fish have died in home aquariums because proper
care/requirements were not met.> I am very saddened, and won't
allow my daughter to buy me fish without my being there again. I only
had her two days. <There are too many other beautiful fish that are
much much easier to care for than the CBB.> I meant dKH
measurement, sorry about that. <OK> I will try to lower my fish
load. I thought I had read that it was 1" of fish per gallon of
water, was ok. <I like one <<cubic. RMF>> inch per five
gallons myself. The statement you read would mean I could
keep a five inch trigger fish in a five gallon tank. Mmmmm,
don't think so.> I live in Denver. In the evening/morning with
the actinics, my temp is 80. With my regular lights on, it is 82.
( I will get my wattage figured out too) I will be running
my air conditioner this summer in the house to keep it stabilized.
<With no heater, what do you think the tank temperature will be, say
at 3:00 am in the winter? I'm sure you do not keep your
home temperature at 78 degrees.> Oh, and my Finger Leather is
looking a bit better, I shall keep an eye on it. I am sure you must get
frustrated with those of us who are newbies, but I appreciate your
help, and it is my goal to become as knowledgeable about my aquarium as
possible. <Not frustrated at all, is why we do this, to help others
from making mistakes we have made in our early years of fishkeeping and
to educate on proper care of such.> I love my fish and will do
everything to take the best care possible of them. <Keep in mind,
these animals did not volunteer to leave their home, and, as aquarists,
we should strive to give them the best possible conditions to continue
their life in our tanks.> Thank you again for your time,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Michelle
| Spaghetti Leather's New Look 4/8/07
Good Afternoon Crew, <Steve> Can you identify the white
squiggly lines that have recently appeared on my finger leather?
<Mmm, maybe> They are on the surface of the flesh at its
base, and move slightly in the currents. Leather seems slightly
withdrawn lately, but may be my 'super-aqua-paranoia'.
Water parameters are normal. Thanks in advance for your help! Steve
<Well... this could be "snail eggs" of some sort (I
would try rubbing them off if you're curious), or some sort of
worm... possibly "too" predaceous... only time,
observation... You might be driven (if health takes a turn) to
consider excising (yes, cutting away) this area...
"fragmenting" this animal/colony... Please see WWM re
Alcyoniid Disease: http://wetwebmedia.com/alcydis7.htm and the linked files
above. Bob Fenner> |
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| Pics and ? Nudibranch and polyp/anemones
3/28/07 Hi there to all the crew. My name is Tracey. I have a
125 gallon reef tank and have for about 13 years now. I have two
things I would like to address here. First, I have a couple of colt
coral that started suddenly not doing well. Like they were being
stung, <Consumed, predated...> but nothing was near enough
even with current that would make that probable. I needed to top
off my water and added my upped the alkalinity just enough to
irritate the critter that was causing the problem to come into
view. I am attaching a pic of this beautiful guy which I think is
maybe a Nudibranch? <Yes... at least a Opisthobranch/Seaslug...> I'm surprised to see this now as I
have not added anything new in months. I took him out and place him
in quarantine until I learn more. I have seen and removed these
before quite some time ago, and they had more of a pink color but
were smaller. This guy is about 1 1/2" long and 3/4"
wide. I removed him with tweezers and he had a sticky and slimy
substance left behind what ever he came into contact with. I have
found them near the base of the colt only. I'm not seeing flesh
decay of the colt, it looks more like it being stung though I'm
not certain. The base of the colt looks like it is separating some
from the rock. He looks better already after only an hour of
removing him. <Is/was being chewed... keep your eyes peeled for
others> Ok, my next issue is this. I have several different
polyps in my tank and have had a new species of some sort pop up
and they multiply quickly. They split in half and they just move
around and make more, even through the current. They grow on the
glass, in the sand, on the rocks like crazy, and I have seen them
grow attached to other coral. I'm wondering if this is some
type of anemone rather than polyps. <Mmm, some pix look like
Zoanthids... others summat like Anemonia species> I did have an
Aiptasia problem and got that problem under control, so I'm
pretty sure that's not what these are. I took out a few rocks
that are just covered in about a months time and quarantined them
also. I'm sending a few pics of these as well. Thanks in
advance for your time and help. I love this site. Tracey <Do
take a scan on/over WWM re these species... best to not let
proliferate/cover too much of your LR. Bob Fenner> |
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| To cut or not to cut, that is the
question! 3/26/07 Hello again guys and gals! I
wasn't sure what to think about this coral this morning when I
came in, I noticed a small area on it that appears to be dead
or dying tissue. (Close up) <I see this> see the light spot
on the underside of the small "nub" sticking out? What
would that be? <Mmm... a sort of ecdysis perhaps...
maybe a bitten off injury... could be a "stung" reaction
area by another Cnidarian> This coral stays completely open and
extended all day, this photo was taken during the dawn
hours of the tanks light cycle so this coral was
just opening. Water Parameters:
PH - 8.4 during the day No3 - <2 Po4 - <.3 dKH - 12.5
Ca - 400 NH4 - 0 No2 - 0 SG - 1.025 Temp - 76 - 78
degrees F Any input on what this is or what to do would
be wonderful, thank you so much! Brian Crenshaw <I
wouldn't do much of anything here... Do you utilize Iodine-ide
in your system... See WWM re> PS sorry for the mix up with the
photos! Also, any idea what the white spots are in the
third photo? <Mmm, maybe Ascidians... BobF> |
Re: To cut or not to cut, that is the
question! 3/27/07 Hello again Bob, How are you
today? <Fine, but bushed... traveling> About the small white
ovals I mentioned before, would it be possible that those
might be coco worms developing? <Mmm, no not likely> Mine
have spawned twice now, and it has been about 2 - 3 weeks since the
first time. Every time I do a water change towards the
end of my tanks dusk cycle with slightly cooler,
and slightly less saline water than what is in the main
tank the male coco worm gets to work sending his
streamers of sperm out and almost as soon as he is done
the female starts sending out pink streams of eggs out into
the water. I do plan on experimenting and testing this further
but those conditions seem to work like a charm. It is quite
fun to watch, like a discovery channel special! <Sounds
great... Perhaps a more "close-up" photograph...> The
leather coral I mentioned in the previous email seems to be
doing alright, it shed off some skin yesterday and seems to be
a bit more perky today. I was (am) thinking that perhaps
it was stung by my torch coral. About three weeks ago I
was moving some things around in the tank and I bumped
one of the torches heads pretty hard (I felt terrible about it) and
early last week I noticed that head starting to
"wither away" it is now nearly completely
gone, no sign of any kind of infection ex: brown jelly or any
other type that I am aware of. While this head was
wearing away could a piece have broken off been caught
by the current and blown into the leather stinging it
on impact and causing that kind of damage? <Mmm,
yes> As far as the damaged area of the leather coral
is concerned should I remove it, or just keep an eye on it?
<I'd do the latter> Would it possibly grow
back? <Yes, certainly> Also, with no sign of infection on the
torch, should anything be done to it, or am I doing the
right thing by just watching it for further problems?
<Read... on WWM re Euphylliid, Scleractinian Disease/s...>
Current water parameters in the aquarium are still the same: PH -
8.4 during the day No3 - <2 Po4 - <.3 dKH - 12.5
Ca - 400 NH4 - 0 No2 - 0 SG - 1.025 Temp - 76 -
78 degrees F There is a bit of sponge growth in the tank
now too, I found 6 Syconoid sponges growing on a couple of
pieces of live rock. From the readings I have taken from the
tank, I know the dKH is high, but does anything else look off
to you? <No> I read on WWM that these sponges typically
grow if the tank has poor skimming, over feeding, basically
poor water quality. I have been feeding the tank very lightly
every other day, mainly for the inverts 3 cleaner shrimp,
7 Nassarius snails, and lots and lots of amphipods. After I
did the water change I also had a brown algae bloom, it
mainly appeared on the sand bed wherever light hits it,
and in small patches on a few live rocks, it looks a
bit slimy so I am guessing perhaps that some of what I
am seeing might be bacteria rather than algae?
<Possibly> I really hope my microscope gets here today. I am
considering purchasing some Cerith snails to stir up the sand
bed more, would this in your opinion be a wise purchase? <Are
useful species>
Thank you,
Brian Crenshaw
<BobF> |
Re: follow up on "coral surgery".
Alcyoniid hlth. 4/4/07 Hello Bob, How are you
today? <Fine my friend, thank you> I wanted to let you know
the Sinularia coral with the stung and dying patch on it is doing
great now, I took it out of the display tank and placed it in a
large casserole dish mostly full of aquarium water where I used an
Exacto knife to cut away the dead and infected tissue. I also use
vinyl gloves any time I am handling corals so my skin oils
don't damage any parts of them. <Very good> After the
"surgery" I then placed the coral in a Lugol's dip
for 17 minutes and then let it sit in some clean salt water of the
same temperature, specific gravity, ph, and so on of the aquarium
for about 2 hours where it did shed some skin. Today it is open,
perky and looking loads better! I did have a couple of other
questions for you. You mentioned in the previous email that it is
not a good Idea to place 2 Sinularia sp. corals in the same
aquarium, <Correct... they compete for space in the wild... a
dispersal mechanism... helps to ensure survival of the
species...> I have no idea if mine are clones or not, and I am
not sure how to tell. They do seem to be doing well though, and
have been for a month now (not long I know). What is the danger in
keeping these together? Should I leave them together if they seem
to be fine, and do something if the situation becomes other than
favorable? <No likely need for overt reaction... just something
to be aware of...> Or would you recommend removing one right
away? I also have a large Cladiella sp. coral in this tank that is
doing quite well, all three corals are on different levels of the
tank, the Cladiella sp. is at the highest point in the tank almost
4 inches from the surface and loves it! I am doing bi-weekly water
changes on the tank until the new filtration system arrives. All
animals are doing well, I figured out what the white ovals in the
tank are (we talked about those in a previous email), they turned
out to be Nerite snail eggs, <Ahh!> now all 4 species of
snail introduced intentionally into the aquarium have reproduced.
My coco worms have twice now in front of my fiancé© and
I. Today I noticed my feather dusters seem to be splitting into
two, I am guessing this is a form of asexual reproduction. I now
have 5 Xenia colonies where there was once one, and my Anthelia
coral has now become 7 colonies! My crocea clams are also showing
wonderful growth! Have you ever heard of Life Reef Filtration
Systems by Jeff Turcheck? <Yes> If so, what is your opinion
on his products? <Their products appear to be well made> I
was considering getting a filtration system made by him. Yesterday
we also introduced our first fish back to the reef after nearly 5
weeks of the aquarium running fallow. He had been in quarantine for
4 weeks and was losing weight from not eating, he is very healthy
other than that. He is stuffing himself with amphipods and small
crustaceans in the sand and rock, and seems extremely happy! He
likes sitting in places where he can "people watch". My
last question for you is about 3 "Yasha haze" gobies I
have, they have had some black spots on them for what must be 2
weeks now, I can't Identify what they are, I have done
freshwater dips with Methylene blue, and they are in quarantine
with copper in the system, any suggestions or ideas on what this
might be? <Likely just some sort of "stress
markings"... I would not expose such small fishes to long
periods of quarantine or much chemical use> I will try to get
some good photos to send you so you can see what I am dealing with
on them. As always thank you for your help and time Bob! Brian
Crenshaw
<Thank you. Bob Fenner> |
| Re: Sinularia hlth., repro.
4/13/07 Hello Bob and Crew! I had another concern to run by you
today. My Sinularia sp. coral is having a possible issue again. I
don't know if you remember what happened before or not but my
Sinularia coral had a small branch that developed a white (ish)
area on it. We both agreed that it was most likely stung and
infected. I had cut the infected branch off and it is almost
completely healed now and doing great. Now, however there is
another branch doing it and this time I know it wasn't injured.
Could this be some form of reproduction? <Mmm, possibly> I
know some corals will drop branches and those will attach to
substrate and grow. Have you seen/ heard of this type of coral
doing that? <Yes> The "infected" area seems to
spread around the arm to be dropped and thins out an area until it
breaks off. At least it seems so, when I was cutting the arm off of
it the first time it just broke off, then I cut the rest of the
light area off. What would you recommend I do with this coral?
Thank you as always for your time and consideration. Take care,
Brian <Have heard/read of this "dispersal
mechanism"... a version of "fragmentation", asexual
reproduction... Does it portend something "missing",
"overly-stressful" in this colony's environment? Bob
Fenner> |
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Dying mumps leather coral 3/23/07 Dear
Crew, <Elizabeth> Recently, I added a piece of Fiji (cured) rock,
a Firefish, a 6 line wrasse, a hairy mushroom coral, and a mumps
leather <Lobophytum...> into my mini reef (there is only a few
established pieces of rock other than the previously
mentioned). Water quality is good, lighting, skimming,
etc. After acclimation, the 6 line was great, the hairy
mushrooms are thriving ... the Firefish died within 24 hrs and the
mumps coral had a small black lesion on it. I didn't
know that I should've taken care of this ... now, I
do. Several days later, the mumps coral had a thick coat of
slime on it. <Mmm, not atypical behavior...> I called
the LFS and they told me to let it go and it was just
acclimating. But then ... tonight ... it disintegrated into
the water. <Best to remove once loose...> All that is
left of it ... is a couple spines and a white fleshy foot. <Oh! The
Soft Coral itself! Yikes> I am over my head here ... but I am
assuming it is dead, correct? <Likely so> Do I remove it from the
tank? <I would, yes> The LFS said to let it be and it might
regrow? <Not likely... I'd at the very least carefully (scoop it
up in a container underwater), move this to isolation> Hmm ... I
will only keep two fish in my 20 gallon tank - <... too small...>
so I need to find a good match for the wrasse and do lots of reading on
corals! <Is too small for this wrasse as well...> I won't
trust the LFS anymore ... :( Thanks for anything you can tell me, Liz
<Mmm, start reading here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alcyoniids.htm
and onto the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
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