Ammonia levels showing toxic, but fish happy as can be.....what gives?
Hang in the tank ammonia monitors - Not to be trusted. 3/14/2009
<Hi Jim>
OK, I am hoping you all can shed some light for me here.
<Will give it a shot.>
I have been reading and reading stuff on your site and all over the web, and I can't seem to find an answer to this. I am using a Martel Live NH3 in tank meter to monitor my ammonia levels in the tank. (I am gone during the week and this helps my wife keep track of things for me till I get home on Thursdays.) I have been battling this ammonia issue now for about 4 weeks.
<I think I see the problem already.>
Here are the details on my tank setup:
115 Gallon Tank
Community Fish (Angels, Mollies, Platys, Guppies, Tetras, Danios, Cory Cats, Plecos)
No live plants
47 Fish Total
Vortex Diatom XL filter
<I wouldn't run this all the time.>
Penn Plax Cascade 1200 Canister Filter
Now according to the meter, my fish are exposed to toxic levels of ammonia, but you sure could not tell it by looking at them in the tank! They all are happy and healthy as far as I can tell. They are active, even playful. So I am at a loss as to why my ammonia levels are so high. I even changed the meter thinking that maybe the meter was faulty. The new meter took a couple of days, but it too is showing toxic levels of ammonia.
<I am NOT a fan of these devices. Too many incidents of false readings.
Do you have a regular test kit? A simple API kit for ammonia runs about $10.00 (US). MUCH more accurate than these monitors, Better yet, the Fresh Water master test kit, will test for all of the necessary water parameters, usually for less than $30.00 US. Also, when you do water changes, where is your source water coming from and how does it test?>
As for overfeeding, I am balancing between flake crisps, pellet, and then algae tabs (Plecos). I don't think I am overfeeding. Since I am balancing their food. I provide less than what each food specifies for the amount of fish I have in the tank. And with the exception of two fish who never seem to stop eating, J their belly's do not show signs of overfeeding and they are all excited when it comes time to feed. I feed once a day. So I don't think I am overfeeding.
<Water tests would confirm, but based upon what you are telling me, I would agree.>
On to filtering. I know there are three categories of filtering, mechanical, chemical, and biological. I use my vortex diatom XL continuously, so it is
providing both "water polishing" and mechanical filtering. And my Penn Plax Cascade 1200 is providing all three.
<Diatom filters should only be used a few hours at a time for polishing the water, then removed and cleaned completely. Really unnecessary for day to day use Also, how often and how are you cleaning out your canister filter?>
On to water changes, per some info I found on the web about severe ammonia problems, I did 50% water changes every day last week. What a chore and still no affect on the ammonia levels showing on the meter. But my planned schedule is to do 25% weekly and 50% every 6 months (opportunity to clean UGF).
<10% - 20% weekly is fine.>
I have a theory that I am hoping you all can help me confirm, but I think it is a matter of math at this point. By that I mean, ammonia control falls
into the realm of biological filtering and water changes. I have both going on, but in terms of biological filtering, I think that I don't have enough biological filtering going on. What are your thoughts on that?
<It is possible, again, without a definitive test, it is impossible to tell. You likely have more biological filtration than you think. The surfaces of the gravel and any decorations have a coating of bacteria as well.>
To that point I am going to install an under gravel filter (UGF) this weekend. I ran one in my 55 gallon tank for years, but when I purchased this new tank the sales people talked me out of a UGF stating it was "old school" and not needed
anymore.
<They still have their uses, but yes, they are pretty much 'old school" You would likely do more damage adding one at this point.>
Well finding an article on your site "5 Pros & 5 Cons of Under gravel Filters" I have decided that they are not as "old school" as the salesman would have me believe. I am going to install one in this tank to increase the volume of biological filtering going on in my tank. I would like to know your thoughts on that.
<Again, I would NOT add one at this point.>
And one other question that I would like to pose to you about filtering for comment is this, one of my buddies is a hobbyist as well, and he is always saying, "you cannot have too much filtering going on". Do you agree with that statement?
<You cannot have too much filtration within reason, given the size of the tank.>
I was also thinking of adding another canister filter to increase the filtering levels for my tank. Thoughts? Comments?
<This is what I would do. It would add additional filtration AND water movement. Rena makes a good canister filter, and you absolutely cannot beat an Eheim.>
<Please do get a 'real' test kit and really see what is going on in your tank.>
Thanks,
<You are very welcome, please do let me know what you find.>
Jim
<Mike>

Green Chromis and QT ammonia 04/28/2008
Hello again crew!
<<Hello, Andrew here this afternoon>>
After reading your Chromis FAQ, I was unable to determine what course of action I should take. So I hope you can give me some direction, as I've read different opinions from the crew regarding my situation.
<<Lets see what we can do then>>
I bought (1 week ago) in QT (30 gal) 17 green Chromis, and 2 purple Firefish. These fish are all in QT now. The largest Chromis is 1", and the Firefish are maybe 1.5". These fish will be the first additions to my 210.
<<WOW>>
My QT parameters are... Ammonia (free ammonia)- 0, Nitrites - 0, nitrates - 2-5ppm, PH - 8.0, Salinity 1.025. I have several PVC fittings for the fish to hide, and am feeding Spectrum pellets, and Mysis Shrimp, and blood worms. All soaked in Selcon. I feed a pinch of pellets in the morning, and half a cube of mysis or blood worms at night. I've only done one 50% water change as my ammonia and nitrite levels remain steady. I did the water change just after the 2nd fish died. My ammonia test kit (Seachem) still works great as the reference sample confirmed.
<<Ok....Feeding once per day is ample here>>
After 4 days, I found a chromis dead with what looked like bruising behind its right gills. 2 days later another Chromis developed bruising on the top of its head, and died within 4 hrs. This morning, I found another dead Chromis. This one looked fine, and didn't show any signs of bruising or damage.
<<This will be due to over crowding in the QT tank>>
I did net these fish. Several different opinions from the crew were mentioned on your Chromis faq page...one said that netting could cause the bruising and ultimate death, another said the QT was too small and to quickly move them into the display tank, while another suggested to start medicating for "hemorrhagic septicemia".
I'm not really sure what to do. Can you help shed some light on this?
<<Cut the level of stock in the QT tank. This is far too many for such a small aquarium I'm afraid>>
Also, the Seachem test kit says I only need to test for Free ammonia because Free ammonia is the toxic form of ammonia. The only other test kit I've used is from API. From my past experience, I'm sure this test would come back with ammonia of 1.0 or higher. From what the Seachem kit says, the API kit is testing "Total ammonia" which isn't toxic to fish, and therefore doesn't require a water change.
<<In my opinion, both ways of testing ammonia are acceptable. Testing for Free-Ammonia id just -another- way / method. Personally, i use the API kits and find them acceptable>>
Am I doing the right thing by only testing and responding to "Free Ammonia" readings?
<<Yes. The only thing i see wrong is the stocking levels of the QT tank, and this does need to be resolved before more untimely deaths occur.>>
Thanks for all your help! Wayne
<<Thanks for the questions Wayne, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Copper Worries 7/13/07
Hi. I have been treating with copper since yesterday and have read everything I could find in your site about it. The one thing I don't see is right after I treat the water with CopperSafe I see a big jump in ammonia??
<... the Copper kills nitrifying bacteria... this is stated several times... but very likely here the chelating agent is an alkanoamine... It's the source (likely a false positive) of the ammonia here>>
Im taking the water out of my other tank that has no ammonia or nitrite whatsoever. My worry is will the ammonia kill my fish? I lost a lot of fish in my early days from ammonia then anything else. Im changing out the treated water twice a day but the ammonia jumps to 1.00 ppm as soon as I added the copper to fresh established water. This is more of a worry then a question as I feel Im following everything to the letter I've learned from your site. Please don't ask me to read as I get lost in all different things in there and haven't found one that addresses these concerns. Im sure others have these concerns also. Thanks So Much Rick
<The reading is spurious. B>

Nessler Rgt. concern   4/21/07
Hello Crew,
<Howdy>
I work at a LFS and regularly recommend Amquel and Wardley products.
The warning labels on these products and many others warns against use with Nessler reactor test kits.
<As they should...>
I know many of my customers use the test kits and have received odd readings when testing their tank parameters. It also becomes very annoying when customers have no idea what chemicals or kits they are using. My question is how likely is that additives effect test kits.
<Very...>
What is the likelihood of a reaction happening when someone is using too many additives.
<?... Am not following you here... The Nessler's Reagent will/can give false readings in a test vial... for ammonia... with water that has been treated with certain water conditioners (containing PVP...)... but this/these false readings are not "in the tank"... the test water should be discarded... not poured back in...>
( I have a customer who insists on adding 6 different additives to his freshwater tank every week.)
Thank you for your time and patience.
           Ann
<Mmm, please refer them here... Not a good idea... we are in agreement here. Bob Fenner>

Re: Ammonia!!! Study...  4/14/07
Hi WWM,
The water I use gets delivered to my home and is stored in a 2000 litre tank at the back of my house.
<Nice to have>
I have used it about ten times and never had a problem. I had a dying coral and yesterday I took it out of the tank and then did a 50-55%(350 litres) water change and now the tests are showing no ammonia.
<Can be transient...>
For the next few days I am going to feed my fish lightly and see what happens. I am going to test the water for ammonia everyday until the problem resides. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals ammonia test is also hard to read.
Thank you, Maison
<... I would get a better test kit... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mtestbrands.htm
and the linked files above... It occurs to me to suggest that for what you have invested monetarily, you don't appear to have concomitant knowledge/awareness... Perhaps a good reference book, some time spent with it... Bob Fenner>

Strange Things & Ammonia Too... water cond. artifact of testing... or is it there?   3/28/07
Hi all,
<Rochelle>
    First of all, LOVE your site! I've done a ton of research on it.
<Ah, good>
Second let's get to my inquiry. I apologize if it gets lengthy; I feel the need to give you as much info as possible.
<There is time>
OK, now, I had a 30gal saltwater tank, never any problems, except of course that pesky brown algae. I then acquired a 55gal tank, which I converted to saltwater. I added things from the 30gal to the 55 to make it cycle faster, water, live sand, a few LR, and filter media. I added one of blue my Chromis a few days later. Parameters were perfect. 2 days after that I added my emerald crab, still things are great. No ammonia, nitrates or nitrites. I then added 5 pounds of "new/fresh" live rock.
<Ding!>
Ammonia went to 1.0!  Water change done and still the ammonia was 1.0.
<Takes a while...>
I then removed the new live rock 2 days after putting it in and cleaned it up more, removing anything dead that I didn't see before, I even went after it with my handy dandy tooth brush. It's now alone in a 10gal tank with air, heat and filtration until it can learn to behave itself. (Thanks to Bob on that advice) confused because the rest of the 50 pounds of that rock from that same shipment is in my friends tank, which is having no problems with ammonia. After things were going well again in the tank and I had no ammonia, I acclimated in the rest of my critters over the course of 2 days. current critters in my 55 are... 3 Blue Chromis, 1 Yellow Damsel, 1 Purple Basslet, 1 Yellow Clown Goby, 1 green Clown Goby, 1 Hermit Crab, 1 Emerald Crab, 1 yellow cucumber, 1 7" red sea star,
<Yikes... king of big>
1 Pincushion Urchin, 1 Pencil Urchin, 1 Pink Tip Haitian Anemone, 1 snail and numerous baby brittle stars that hitchhiked on the rock. (See that need for a bigger home?) I understand the tank had to catch up biologically but how high will the ammonia go?
<Hopefully not much at all... any is problematical>
Now..... Mich has identified that my sea star is sick; he has a small hole on his body, (bought him with a white spot, it just didn't turn into a hole until recently) still eats and moves about the tank.
<Mmm... keep your eye on it...>
My Green Goby watches over him and cleans around his wound and I'm pleased to say, it looks to be healing. Now let's get to the other problems shall we? Now keep in mind, all my critters lived together in my 30gal with no problems or water issues. (Except for the hole in the sea star). I have been battling ammonia since I took that problem live rock out!
(Yes there is ammonia in the 10gal tank where that rock is now housed by itself, so I know this was part of the problem) I have done water changes up to 60% 3 times, with smaller water changes in between 10-15% over the last 7 days. I use Instant Ocean salt and store bought distilled water by the gallon, I mix my water right in the gallon jug I buy my water in. here are my water parameters, salinity 1.024, alkalinity 300, PH 8.4, nitrates are less than 5, nitrites 0, temp is 80 (heater isn't coming on due to my upstairs apartment & warm air temp up here) ammonia is .25, I'm sure it would be higher if I wasn't so obsessed with water changes. I have 40 pounds crushed coral with 25 pounds live sand. I don't know what is causing my ammonia problem. I've used 'Prime' and 'bio-safe' to try to bring it down.
<Mmm... do hold off on these... they may well be giving you a false positive on the ammonia test... Perhaps a small experiment with adding a bit of these products to some fresh water... and testing for ammonia...>
I thought maybe I've done so many water changes I've flushed all the beneficial bacteria, so I used some 'Cycle'
<Not a generally dependable source of nitrifiers...>
. I can't pinpoint the cause of the ammonia nor can I bring it down. Even after a water change (or 3) it only dilutes and rises again. I can't get it to 0 but I can get it below .25 with water changes. The only thing I haven't tried is that cheap stuff Wal-mart sells made by jungle, even though it says "safe for saltwater" I'm skeptical of the effectiveness and the health of my critters after use. Do you have any ideas?
<Yes... the experiment alluded to above. I do think this is "it">
The tank was never cleaned with any chemicals and I don't use Windex or ammonia containing chemicals around it. I'm at a loss. The previous owner of the tank said she never had any problem with parameters.
(Wondering if it was the tank itself, even though things were fine for a while)
    I don't know if this helps but I have cut down on the feeding, and I've noticed that my urchins and my Anemone kind of hanging around amongst and under the LR, which concerns me, usually the urchins are on the glass or feeding off the rock. On my last trip by the tank, I did notice the Anemone has shriveled and the pincushion is missing a lot of his spines and what he does have on him for spines appear droopy, Due to the Ammonia?
<Mmm, or perhaps just the move, lack of biota to eat...>
Does the water temp have anything to do with anything?
<Can, yes>
I did change my light source 4 days ago from standard 40 watt fluorescent to an 18,000K power glow fluorescent. With a 12 hour on 12 off cycle. I have just he basic hang on double filter for an up to 75 gal tank, (saving for a better filter.) I've also increased the amount of carbon in the filter hoping that would help. so far no luck with anything. Please give me any info you can think of that will save my critters and lower my ammonia. I wish I could crawl under a rock and shrivel up like the Anemone about now. You know, my fish seem happy as can be, swimming, active, even the yellow Damsel continues to fan holes in the sand. Crabs are crawling around; the cucumber is trying to filter feed. I don't understand.  
Confusion has set in here.
Thanks in advance.
Rochelle
<Do take a read here as well: http://wetwebmedia.com/ammmarmeas.htm
Patience, that test... Bob Fenner>

Ammonia sensing & water management   1/30/06
Hello Dr. Fenner:
<Mmm, no doctorate... Just Bob, please>
I am writing to ask, hopefully, if you might help us by giving a little guidance with respect to ammonia in aquaria, as a water-quality issue; specifically regarding the need for continuous monitoring of ammonia, as well as pH.  From searching the web, I am impressed by what you have done, your credentials in the field, and interest in promoting the safe, successful maintenance of fish in a healthy environment. As I am looking for professional advice from one who knows the need and can sort out the reality from the hype for us, I hope that you might have a moment to address our inquiry.
<Okay>
My company develops optical sensors, primarily for biomedical R&D.  We made one for visually determining the ppm ammonia (not ammonium) in water, useful
in the range of  0.05 to 1 ppm, even up to 5 ppm .  It is suitable for continuous monitoring of tank water, has a reversible color-response to NH3, and is long lasting.  We have been encouraged that this would be a useful product - for the freshwater pet industry - but for the marine environment, we were told that a more sensitive sensor is needed in order to measure lower ammonia levels.
<Mmm, no... the stated range is efficacious>
So we made another sensor rendition that can be used for visual monitoring in the 0.005 to 0.1 ppm range. Thus, with the two sensors, we can cover the complete NH3 range that we think should be needed for aquarists. We are interested in the business opportunity that exists for ammonia testing.  Current thinking is that we provide two products: one for freshwater and one for marine.  The plan is to include a visual pH sensor (range 6-9) along with each ammonia sensor, so that both parameters can be monitored continuously and provide more value.
However, a question of interest is if there is really a need for two separate ammonia sensors?  If no ammonia is the goal of a well-maintained system, and any detectable ammonia indicates that a problem exists that needs attention, then will the 0.005 to 0.1 ppm higher sensitivity sensor be all that is needed to cover all aquarists’ concerns?
<The "higher" scale is all that is of interest, saleable>
With respect to the “business opportunity” we are most interested in getting sound advise to help define and bring into focus who has the most interest, what and where is the greatest need, and the scope or size of the potential market(s). For instance, does visual monitoring present more value to the fresh or saltwater hobbyist, the retail store, pond operators, breeders, or the shippers and the distribution process?
<Mmm, actually to all... the presence of ammonia/ammonium is a critical parameter determining health of aquatic livestock... for everyone. Likely your product, depending on price, would be attractive to all levels>
Do the preponderance of conventional manual tests (strips or liquid-sample based ammonium test kits) cover the need?
<Mmm, yes. The vast majority of tests/kits in the ornamental aquatics hobby interest are simple colorimetric assays... some repackaging of dry reagents by Hach, some sales by LaMotte and others, but many cheapy repackaged liquid reagent types on the low/freshwater end. There are some sales of colorimeters, spectrophotometric/titrametric means in our hobby/business, but these are few>
Through various lines of inquiry, we have gotten confounding feedback. It ranges from encouragement that there is considerable need, to not so much interest because testing is only important during the aquarium setup phase while it is stabilizing?
<Mainly, but this (and other aspects of nitrogen accumulation) are principal concerns when "something" is apparently wrong... and actually very real ongoing concerns in captive aquatic systems period>
One store will say that NH3 is more important than pH, and another just the opposite.
<Mmm, these two phenomena and resulting toxicity are intimately related... as you will know. Toxicity of ammonia increases abruptly with increasing pH...>
We are well familiar with the literature and the science of ammonia measurement, ammonia and water quality maintenance, and the theory of proper management.  But we do not have a good real-world perspective of the practicing of ammonia testing in the field.
<Mmm, ask away and I will try to relate my impressions, level of confidence, underlying rationale/referents>
What I simply would like to know is if you think that we have something worthwhile and we should pursue it?  And if so, would you be interested in
helping us gain guidance how best to introduce it to the industry, or be able to recommend someone else that could do so?
<Is worthwhile... mainly depending on ultimate retail pricing... there are issues of distribution, how many levels there... parallels in other test gear, controller technology, sales that you might investigate (Hanna, Milwaukee, YSI... others have tried to make inroads to "pet-fish" markets with variable success...>
I would greatly appreciate the opportunity to talk with you by phone, even briefly, in regards to this inquiry. Even better, if convenient for you, I
will be in the LA area (Irvine) all next week and would be most pleased to have a chance to personally meet you.
<... At this juncture, emailing will likely suffice. Am glad to help you>
Thank you very much for your attention. I will be looking forward to your response. My contact information is given below including my cell phone. If amenable to me calling you, your number and a best time to reach you would be appreciated.
Best regards,
David Putnam
<Had some parallel conversations (though largely unrelated), this weekend, giving a pitch here in Dallas... with a young fellow/aquaculturist who has a facility in Baltimore producing seahorses... re how to approach the presumed market, consumer... best... and avoid proverbially "shooting oneself in the foot". The ornamental, scientific, industry field might well be receptive to your product. Please do reply re your guess as to probable retail... as this will determine largely the scope of the present, likely future market. Bob Fenner>

Ammonia (testing, understanding) problems   2/10/06
Hi All,
<Jeri>
Sorry this is so long, but I am trying to include all info for you. We are having constant ammonia problems (2weeks now) and I need help finding the source. We have a 200-gallon FOWLR and several inverts. We have a Tunze filtration system, which is built in a rail system that hangs in the tank. It uses foam filters, Granovit (biological), and we have carbon. We also have a Tunze Protein skimmer on the rail system. The pump for the system moves 900GPH not sure about the pump on protein skimmer. We have several powerheads in the tank moving another 700GPH. We are looking to upgrade to the Tunze stream kits real soon. Tank has been up and running since October 2005. I contacted Roger at Tunze USA to make sure our filtration was sufficient and he feels it is for what we have.
<Is and nice gear... just pricey>
That was after telling him we would be willing to upgrade if necessary.($$$) We have a DSB 4 - 5" Oolite Aragamax. Total of 180lbs of rock only about 75lbs being good live rock.
The other was live rock but had been sitting outside for 6 months after the previous owner tore down his tank. We have VHO lighting about 600watts.
The fish we have are Bluethroat trigger (6in), niger trigger (2in), Tennent Tang (4in), Flag Fin Angel (2.5in), Flame Angel (2in), 2 clowns(1.5in). We have a cleaner shrimp, 4 peppermint shrimps, 70 hermit crabs, 25 super Nassarius snails, 10 pacific conch, 7 zebra turbo snails, 4 tiger tail sea cucumbers, 2 sand sifting stars, 4 Burgundy stars, and 5 large brittle stars. Ammonia this morning .50ppm (aquarium pHarm & jungle),
<Get better test kits...>
nitrite 0 , nitrate 15ppm, salinity 1.025, temp 76, ph 8. We normally keep ph 8.3 - 8.4 but I know that ammonia is more toxic at higher ph levels, so I haven't been aggressively buffering the tank. The SeaChem ammonia  test is interesting. it says no free ammonia but .35 total ammonia. I will be doing at least a 40gal water change today.
<Oh! Not to worry... much here... the "total" measure here is largely artifactual... not of real concern>
Even when I perform water changes I am not getting a good reduction in ammonia numbers.
<Mmm, no... how to convey what you are seeing here? The "bound up" ammonia (the non-free) is "other materials" in suspension, solution...>
I have used 3 tests (aquarium pHarm, SeaChem, & jungle), and taken it to a fish store. Always running at a minimum of .25ppm. I
have tried adding bio Spira, which normally does the trick, but it is not working this time. I am doing 20 - 25% water changes daily or at least every other day
with no luck. We use RO water. I did use Amquel+
<This material will give you a false positive for the test kits you list...>
Sunday when the kits were saying .75ppm ammonia and I was out of salt at 8:30pm. (Salt normally Coralife, but using Kent marine since Monday )
<Get rid of these inferior brands as well... look to Instant Ocean, SeaChem, Tropic Marin...>
So I couldn't do a water change. I did a 40 gal water change Monday, added bio Spira Tuesday (protein skimmer off), did 40 gal Wed, Thurs. ammonia still at
.5 the fish seem good. Healthy appetites. We have cut down the feeding,
<Good>
in hopes that the ammonia was from overfeeding. Problem with that is our large trigger (Chloe) took a chunk out of a burgundy starfish. A leg
actually. I found the leg this morning and got it out of the tank. I am on the look out for dead animals but we have a lot of hiding places.
We have had a couple of losses. We had 3 sand sifters start to turn white very rapidly and removed them from the tank before death. We had a cucumber turn itself
inside out and removed it. Any limbs I find I am removing. We had a small Xenia but it is shriveled right now and I think I will remove it today.
<These losses, and the stress of the water changes is likely the root cause here... dying bits of live rock...>
This is our first time with sand substrate, is there anyway to deep clean sand? What can I do to check for dead animals under the sand?
<Best not to fool with this here/now>
Can the sustained ammonia reading be caused from a sick or dying animal?
<Yes>
Should we expect a nitrite spike?
<No, not likely>
Should I pull rock out to see if anything is dying or dead in places I cannot see from the outside?
<I would not>
Just not sure what to do other than daily water changes. I will be turning the protein skimmer back on today so hopefully that will help.
<Yes, I would run this flat out>
Can you help me understand the difference between Free & Total ammonia and how to remove both of them from my tank?
<Only be concerned with the free ammonia...>
Two more questions. How long does it take for rock to become live rock?
<?... in the wild? Weeks to years... in aquariums... longer>
How long does it take a DSB to begin to help removing nitrates?
<A few to several weeks>
As always thank you so much for any help. Jeri
<When in doubt, do nothing... switch the test kits (Hach, LaMotte...) to match your expensivo filter gear, and the salt mix, stop using the Amquel... instead make-up and store new water for a week or more... and you'll be fine. Bob Fenner>

Free Vs Total Ammonia - 10/2/06
Hi
<Hello Glenn>
I could not find a good explanation anywhere of what Free vs. Total Ammonia means. I have a SeaChem test that tests both my free ammonia comes in at .0, but my total ammonia usually comes in at .05-.1 is this a  reason for worry?
what is the difference between free and total? Which is the biggest concern
<Hello Glenn.... Free ammonia is NH3. When this accepts a further hydrogen ion it becomes ammonium, NH4+ which is much less toxic. Therefore, since the ratio of NH3 to NH4 is affected by the number of hydrogen ions in solution,
the ratio is affected dynamically by the pH. At lower pHs, NH4 dominates. "Total ammonia" refers to NH3 + NH4+.
In normal situations, detection of any ammonia is a sign that the biological filter is not working optimally. However, If your source water contains chloramine (chlorine-ammonia), the water conditioner you are using is likely breaking the chlorine-ammonia bond, and sequestering the ammonia (or even worse - not - if your conditioner is not rated for chloramines). This will still show up on a Nessler-based ammonia test.
Another confusion is whether the test kit measures the amount of "ammonia ion" or amount of "ammonia-nitrogen". suffice to say it should tell you in the instructions and provide a conversion factor to allow you to convert between these different measures.>
thank you
<You're welcome! Best regards from Shanghai, John>
Glenn A. Baker

Ich and ammonia   3/16/06
Dear Crew,
<Scott>
I have been hanging out and fighting the good fight against the ich since Feb 6th, although I am now down to 2 fish, a tomato clown and my emperor angel.  The emperor has its adult coloration and is about 6" or so.   The angel eats, but I haven't seen the clown eat.  Either it's eating behind my back or I'll have one fish before too long.  I had inquired earlier in the month about my fighting against both the ich and the ammonia.  I had panicked and put my emperor back into the display tank about three weeks ago and he immediately was reinfested at that time.  Fortunately I was able to catch him again within about an hour and put him back in the hospital tank.  Because of that move however, I still have evidence of ich on my two fish in the hospital tank and have been treating with copper the past three weeks.
<With testing... daily>
  Hopefully with another week or so of Cu treatment that will be taken care of, and I was hoping to put the fish back into my display by the end of this month.
I really am not rushed to put them back and would rather be safe than sorry all except for one thing.  I cannot for the life of me control the ammonia levels in my hospital tank.  It is a 20 gallon tank down to only two fish with limited feedings every couple of days with immediate siphoning of uneaten debris.  I am using CopperSafe as my copper treatment.  I have an airstone and vigorous circulation with a hang on the back filter system (approx turnover of 5x the tank volume/10 minutes) with massive amounts of filter sponge material, some of which had been removed from my main system originally.  Even if the tank was "overstocked," one would think that the ammonia levels would build up slowly over a couple of days, but this literally only takes 12-24 hours after 80-100% water changes to get to toxic levels again.
<Numbers please>
My only defense is AmmoLock
<May complex the copper... and is very likely giving you a "False positive" on your ammonia reading here>
and massive, frequent water changes daily) which goes through massive amounts of salt, AmmoLock and copper.  This has become unmanageable!  
Am I missing something??
<Perhaps a larger treatment tank, even more limited feeding, pre-made and stored new water... Is the ammonia more than one ppm?>
  Even if I put those sponges in new without any initial bacteria it should have cycled naturally by now.  I am using CopperSafe which says it shouldn't kill off the biological filter, but I am suspicious that this is the culprit.  Copper levels have consistently been therapeutic.  I can't imagine this 20 gallon tank is THAT overstocked with 2 barely fed fish.  My spec. gravity is about 1.012
<... this is killing your beneficial microbes...>
to help with the ich.  Also, every 3-4 days or so it seems like I have bacterial blooms which require that I wipe off the glass and rinse out the sponges during a 100% water change).  I am careful to rinse out the sponges in the tank's own water and not freshwater.    
Even if I do make it through this ich fighting extravaganza, I am very nervous about the future of my hobby.  I will NEVER fight this ich again if I can help it, which means strict quarantines and I'm undecided but maybe prophylactic copper treatments before introduction in the future of all future residents.
<A hard lesson learned>
  But I must not be doing something right because I can't fight off this ammonia.  Even if I had a 40 gallon quarantine, that would only mean that I would have 4 ppm of ammonia and not 8, which is not any less toxic, just more difficult to dilute.  Heck, I have a spare 120 gallon tank in the next room.  This is where I have been mixing my water.  I could easily (and have considered) putting the fish in there-in fact, the water is pretreated with Cu, but I am very afraid about the ammonia levels in there because I wouldn't be able to do 80-100% water changes or neutralize such massive amounts of water with AmmoLock.  
Any advice you have is greatly appreciated.  I need an in-home consultation!   I would have paid well for it and still come out way ahead!
Thanks,
Scott
<Do raise the spg back up... and test the AmmoLock with your ammonia test kit to see if it is giving you a/the false positive... and hang in there. Bob Fenner>