300 gal with a crack,,, Not What It's Cracked Up To Be 11/10/06
I just received a 300 gallon tank for free from a friend. He got it from a teacher because the school was no longer going to fund to have a saltwater tank anymore. It is an old tank at least 10-14 years. I was planning on resealing it to prevent any leaks, but after I washed the tank out I noticed in one of the corners about half way down there is a defect that I would guess is a crack. My best way to explain it is that it is the size of half of an American quarter and is rounded. It does not go past the silicon on the inside of the tank, it is only where the two corners connect. It is on the larger panel and I fear that would be costly to buy a new panel. The tank is huge after all. I wanted to turn it into a freshwater tank. Is this going to be a problem? If the crack is on the corner and before the silicon plus it is rounded, the chances of it spreading is less likely right? Or will the tank fail under the weight of the water?
<Michelle, I wouldn't fill it if it were mine, but it wouldn't hurt to have it looked at by someone knowledgeable.  I'd certainly have it looked at by someone in the know before
I'd fill it.  James (Salty Dog)>
~Michelle~

Cracked Bottom Tank   9/26/06
Hello.  Wonderful, informative site. I bought a used tank, unfortunately, the bottom panel is cracked.  Long story, a sad story, that led to me buying it anyway :-)
It is 75gal, with these dimensions: (44x15x26.5 w/.5"glass)
I read the entire FAQ at http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqrepairfaqs.htm
It looks like - I'll need to replace the bottom panel of glass
- This replacement is fairly easily done, but you need to do it right so that you have confidence that it won't leak later!
Ok!  How fun!  After reading your FAQ I have a couple unanswered questions:- Do I need a special kind of glass?  (tempered, hardened, ??)
< Usually these tanks are made with the cheapest glass around so go with regular glass of the same thickness.>
- Where can I get this glass?  (I guess Home Depot, right?)
< You could start there but I think you will end up at a glass shop.>
- About how much is this glass going to cost me?
< Glass is not cheap. Compare the cost of glass to the cost of buying a new tank.>
- Instead of using glass, could I still get a good seal with Plexiglas, or even plywood covered w/ epoxy?
< In Canada and areas that don't have access to inexpensive aquariums, many aquarists have built wooden aquariums with a glass front. Check the internet for info on epoxy and wood requirements.>
Would this be cheaper?  Is it advisable?
< Sounds like too much work and money for something that may not work. I have seen some aquarists simply silicon a new piece of glass over the existing bottom. But I would be concerned depending on the crack. How about doing what everybody else does and keep reptiles in it?-Chuck>
Thank you! ~Jeff

Tank Repair  9/6/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
About 3 years ago, my mother gave me the fish tank that my grandfather had custom made. It is a corner tank in the shape of a diamond - there's a 45 angle at the back and two sides and then the front has a bigger angle connecting the two - a typical diamond shape. I set it up then, ran for a while, but the fish died and I didn't have the $/time to set it all up again.  Last year, for my birthday, I set it up again with no problems.  About a month ago I noticed a wet spot around the bottom rim, looking closer I realized that there was a leak coming from about the center of the front large angle on the left side when looking at it.  We quickly unloaded the water and got the fish out. Then we cleaned it with some rubbing alcohol and siliconed the outside seam from top to bottom.  (There's a yellowish colored seam that connects the two pieces of glass and then another clear seam (Thinking silicone) on the inside and out of just this weird seam).  We let it stand for 2 two days, replaced the water and the fish and everything seemed to be fine. About a week later my husband was checking out his silicone job and noticed that that same seam at the very top, about 1 inch down cocked over about 1/4 inch, went about 4 inches down and then cocked back over to where the seam was supposed to be - this included the yellowish inner seam. I'm very surprised that the glass didn't crack, but it didn't.  We took the whole thing apart and I can't find anyone around here that fixes fish tanks. I did a google search and found this site, checked out a couple of the questions, but no one has a problem quite like this one.  To try to give you an idea, instead of the glass butting up against each other, it only slightly connects on the inside of the tank and the outside (because of that weird angle) doesn't at all, that's where that yellowish stuff comes in. So, I didn't know if I should use the same technique and silicone that you recommend for all the other fixes - (I didn't know if I should get something that was stronger or something.  Thanks for all of your help.
<I don't see any reason you can't just remove all the silicone on the inside of the leaking side (or the whole tank, to be sure) & re-seal it with silicone.  Be sure to remove everything with a razor blade.    ~PP>

Tank perimeter trim and back wall over flow vents   8/30/06
Hey crew!
<Jean-T>
I made a sump out of an old 55 gal tank. I added silicone over the existing silicone
<Not a good practice... doesn't adhere well. Should be cut out, replaced...>
just to be safe. (I know this is somewhat useless since its the film between the glass that does the job..
<Oh! Yes>
but I feel better still)
I noticed that the plastic perimeter trim on the top and bottom of the tank was cracked in all corners.
<Mmm, this is more for assembly, looks than structural...>
I am having a hard time finding replacements at local pet shops and have no  credit cards to order them via internet.
<Make a deal with someone who does... send them a check in advance...>
Do I really need this trim ?
<Mmm, very likely not>
I have 4 baffles in the sump so this may compensate as reinforcement??
<To some extent yes... I wouldn't worry re... you probably won't have this filled very high...>
   Also I have 4 drains across the top of my back wall (1 inch bulk head)  and my pump will be pushing 1200 gph.
Do I need to pipe  vents into the overflows so they can draw air?
<Mmm, likely a very good idea to have "tees" at the down junctions... may well have to aspirate these to cut the "gurgling" noise... See WWM...>
  I once herd that if no vent is present it can greatly lessen flow? is his true?
<Mmm, in some cases these small diameter lines can/do operate as siphons... but this is not a good idea all the way around... if the size, number of drains is insufficient and one or more should become occluded...>
Do you think my drains will handle 1200 gph?
<No... all this is gone over and over...>
my return to the tank is via  4   3/4 inch  returns ? does this sound right for 1200 gph in a 90 gal tank?
<Depends on the pumping mechanism, but no... not real 1,200 gallons per hour>
tanks so ever very much for your precious time! thanks!!!!!!!!!!
  Tristan!!!
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
Scroll down to the areas on plumbing, overflows, bulkheads, noise... and read... Better to re-drill, fit large-enough through-puts now. Bob Fenner>

-Removing the Supports-   8/29/06
Bob:
<Evening, Justin with you tonight>
First of all I am new as an aquarium hobbyist. Anyway my friend was moving out of town and gave me his 55 gallon tank. The only thing I needed was a light and filter to start my first planted freshwater aquarium. I purchased a canister filter and a light source that had a lunar light in the center. In retrospect, a very bone head move I made, I cut the plastic bracing strip in the center of the tank.
<Uh oh......>
So the lunar light was now visible on the tank. I have filled the tank and was unable to place the hood on. Then I realized the glass had bowed. I, however, then was able to force the hood on. I have since removed approximately 1/3 of the tank's water. I assume the plastic bracing strip is essential!
<Yes, it keeps the center of the tank from bowing, and cracking, spilling 55 gallons of water on your floor.....>
I have the plastic I cut out. Can I use screws to replace the cut out portion lengthwise leaving a little window in the center? Will that brace my aquarium enough? Or should I repair in another manner? I hope the tank is not doomed!!! thank you every much in advance for answering my question!!
Sincerely,
Michael Becht
<Drain your tank down totally, and DO NOT fill it, it probably will crack under the pressure created by the bowing in the center. Ask your fish store to order you a new 55 gallon outer top brace.  Once that comes, remove all the silicone from the old brace, and yank it off, resilicone the new one in, let dry for 24-48 hours, and you should be fine.>
<Justin>

How do I de-contaminate my fish tank after my brother tried to clean the silicone off with petrol ?   8/24/06
Hello Bob ! Please help. I bought a second hand tank and had removed the inside panels as I wanted to install an external filter rather than using the overflow system.
Problem is I removed the panels and cut off the excess silicone with a blade.
My brother then decided to clean the silicone smudges with a cloth soaked in petrol ! He is not very bright !
Please advise how do I de-contaminate the tank before adding fish ?
Please advise ! oh mighty wise one !
Thank you
<Wipe with a solvent... Xylene, even Acetone, wash the tank in turn with plenty of water and coarse salt. Bob Fenner>
From Denny Moodley, South Africa

Overflow Noise/Glass Scratches - 08/15/06
Hi,
<<Hello!>>
I have a 54G RR Corner tank with a 1" drain and a 3/4" return.
<<Sadly undersized throughputs...even on this volume of water>>
I bought the whole reef set up used, but I can't imagine how the previous owner tolerated the noise!
<<Mmm, indeed...you can't really put much water through a 1" drain before it becomes problematic>>
I installed a 1.25" Durso standpipe (1" did not work, now I follow directions, doh!).  I have a 1/8" drilled hole in the top of the T of the Durso.  It was fascinating to watch the relationship between the air hole size, the drain line position relative to the sump water level, and the gurgling and flushing effect.
<<Ah yes, you are finding out just how "fiddly" it can be.  I would like to suggest you try enlarging the hole just enough to push some airline tubing through and down in to the standpipe.  This will help with aspirating/releasing air from the drain line and often eases the gurgling sounds.  It will take some experimentation to determine the best length/diameter tubing to insert>>
As I slowly increased the air hole from a pinhole up to 1/8", I observed the step by step decrease in flushing effect amplitude.  
<<Yes...allowing that air I mentioned to escape more readily>>
It started at about a 3-inch oscillation, at 1/8, it was gone completely.  Adjusting the drain pipe position also impacted the flushing effect and required small changes in the air hole.  
<<Pretty much all comes down to eliminating the obstructions (air bubbles) to the water flow>>   
OK, on to my questions:  I have extensive bubbling/gurgling noise in the sump from the drain.
<<From air that is "carried" down the line by the water>>
I have read on WWM two things to try: A "T" or "Y" fitting on the drain line, and aspirating the drain line from the top with air line tubing.
<<Yes indeedy...though I prefer a 45- or 90-degree ell fitting on the end of the drain line>>
I am confused about the specifics of both of these.  For the T or Y fitting, how is it positioned?
<<Is of little consequence...just position to direct flow in the direction you desire>>
I am guessing that it goes at the bottom of the drain line, with one leg submerged and one leg above the sump water level?
<<Mmm, okay...I think I'm with you now.  The purpose of the fitting on the end of the drain line is to "slow" the rush of water a bit.  So...experiment with the position to determine which gives you best results.  Either way you position it, I find that having the end of the drain line completely submerged usually works best.  And do be aware, it is usually not practical to expect a 1" drain to flow more than about 300/350 gph without much hassle and noise, as you seem to be experiencing>>
For the aspiration tubing, is the tube supposed to have its own hole separate from the existing air line in the Durso T cap?
<<Refer to my earlier comments re>>
Or does it simply go down the same hole?
<<Yup!>>
It also seems to me that the bubble/gurgle would be reduced if I had the water break on some live rock rubble or other irregular surface.
<<Can give it a try>>
I think I have seen reference to using filter pad material.
<<A detritus trap>>  
Next question: Even though I only have about a 2-inch drop from the overflow wall to the top of the water behind it, it still makes an annoying, trickle noise that induces the need to visit the bathroom at night (tank is in the bedroom).
<<Hee!>>
I am thinking of installing some kind of stepladder down to the surface.  Or perhaps a piece of filter pad would also suffice.  How have you seen this done?
<<Raise the height of the standpipe to raise the surface of the water in the overflow...it only needs to "fall" a fraction of an inch or so>>   
Last, the tank is used, and has a good number of extremely fine scratches that are visible depending on angle and lighting.  I have read that you generally shy away from glass polishing/buffing, but that usually seemed to be because the emailer was asking about significant/deep scratches.  What do you think about using a commercial buffer on an orbital drill pad, and follow with a thorough cleaning?
<<I think you'll do one of two things...nothing at all...or make it worse.  Scratches in glass "can" be repaired/removed, but unless you really know what you're doing/have done this before, I recommend you refer to a professional for advice/consultation.  You may find it is easier/cheaper to replace the tank...or learn to ignore/accept the scratches>>
Jack
<<Regards, EricR>>

Aquarium Repair...Braces Broke Loose   8/14/06
Hi Bob,
<James today, Steve.>
I was given your name as someone who has significant expertise in tank repair.
I have a 135 reef ready oceanic tank where both the top braces have broken.
I am fearful that I will not be able to obtain a replacement before this could break.  Is there anything I can buy - or do to provide some insurance?
<I'd go with a 1/2 inch pipe clamp with wood backups on the clamps and just snug it up to a point where you can just feel some resistance in the screw, then give it another 1/4 turn.> <<... RMF would drain this tank first...>>
Thanks,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Steve Mc.
<In future queries, do not auto sign with all your personal info.  I have deleted this for your privacy as these FAQ's are read by thousands of people on a daily basis.>

Repairing glass tank with acrylic...Yikes!   7/22/06
Hi,
<Hello Beth>   
I have been reading through your threads, but have come up with conflicting replies to this question.
Yesterday I purchased a new 100 gal glass tank.  The cart I was using to get it into the house collapsed breaking the back panel of the tank.  Luckily it did not do any damage to the other piece which is one solid piece with rounded corners.  It would be more cost effective to repair the tank by using an acrylic panel instead of glass.  I have come up with not possible to yes you can in the faq's.  
Can I replace this back panel with an acrylic one?  Will the tank be structurally sound if I do?  What should I use to adhere these two materials together?
<Beth, I would not feel comfortable in doing this.  I would have it professionally repaired.  You may want to check your homeowners insurance.  This accident may even be covered.>   
Thank you for your time and help.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Beth

Re: Repairing glass tank with acrylic  7/23/06
Thank you, I have not found a place that does repairs yet in my area.
  Beth
<Acrylic cannot really be adhered to glass in this repair... Your only real option for repair is to replace the broken glass with glass. Bob Fenner>

Question about 110 gallon fish tank- please look , :) , Glass Aq. repair   7/7/06
Hi there I came across your site and reviewed the many questions that were answered in the aquarium repair sections. I did not see what I was looking
for and was hoping to get expert advice.
<Good... we really need a comprehensive couple of articles with good pix here... showing how to cut out old beads, hold panels together...>
I recently got a 110 gallon freshwater aquarium from a reputable neighbor.
They upgraded and I got the tank pretty cheap. They included a low metal stand for it as well, but it is rusting on the top. I plan to clean up and
sand down as much rust as possible.
<Good... and coat the metal with a rust-inhibiting paint... Do take care re support in turn under this stand...>
The fish tank is very heavy and it was myself and my boyfriend who brought it into the apartment, its very heavy!
<I know>
There was a point when bringing it in that it was vertical on its nose and was "dropped" on its side in the grass, it was slowed down to not shatter as
it fell over but it did fall to the side. This did not create any cracks or chips that I could see. Would this have loosened anything? Structure wise?
<Not likely, no>
Most everything looks pretty tight, no loose silicone. The only damage I see is the secondary wooden trim and the primary hard plastic/metal? trim has
come undone at the base on one corner.
<Can either just "push" this in place while filling, or use Silastic to re-fit it permanently. Is more ornamental than functional, but you want the tank to "sit" evenly on its edges on the stand>
There's also a "chip"/shard about 1/2 inch on the outside of the tank near the edge of the seam. The tank appears to have double panes of glass on the
sides, but its hard to tell,
<Mmm... unusual. Some commercial glass tank manufacturers over the years did make aquariums with doubled bottoms. Never doubled sides as far as I'm aware>
it looks very thick compared to my 20 gallon.
<Is>
The chip doesn't worry me, its the bottom where the trim has come loose along with the silicone holding it onto the glass. Is this seen as a real problem?
<Not likely, no>
I don't want 110 gallons of water damage in my apartment. Also, is it a bad thing to store the tank on its side vertically up?
<Should be of no consequence. Not a problem>
The sides seem very strong and durable for storing it this way but I wasn't sure if it compromised the structure or not. It has a black hard plastic or metal panes
around the top and bottom glued on and additional wood paneling that's very thick on top of that, it seems sound.
Thanks for any advice you can provide me, hopefully it will be good news so my fishies can move up in their world. Kristin
<The chip is more concern to me... I would try filling outdoors on the stand... once the latter is spiffed up. Bob Fenner>

Re: Question about 110 gallon fish tank- please look , :)   7/7/06
Thank you for your quick reply!
That's a good idea to show pictures of the process of restructuring a tank- most helpful to those who are visually inclined. I in turn will get you a
photo of the chip on my tank- it almost seems like its a inverted bubble more than a chip, its so smooth. Hopefully I can get my camera back within
the week. Thank you again! Kristin
<Thank you for the follow up... will post your pic with our corr. when you send it along. Bob Fenner>

Repairing a 30g Leaker  6/19/06
Hi
<Hi John, Pufferpunk here>
I found your website and was wondering if you could help me. I recently bought a 30 long on a very nice wooden stand, as I have several large convicts I was happy to find it. When I filled it I found a leak on the upper right front side coming through the seal I immediately emptied it below the leak line and went to repair it with aquarium grade silicone. I went far below the leak line and all the way up to the top. I waited 48 hours and filled it. The leak had slowed but was still present. Now I live in CO and it's very arid here but I was wondering if I let the tank dry out in that area for a couple of days and then go at it with the sealant again am I just beating a dead horse. I guess my question is.
Do I need to do anything special to repair the seal on the tank in that area and is there something I can do that's not too drastic.
<I have repaired many a tank, from a 10g hex to a 125g tank.  Be sure to take a razor blade & scrape off all remaining silicone, all the way to the bottom of the tank on that side.  Clean thoroughly (no soap, Oxyclean works great) & wipe with alcohol.  Let dry & try again.  ~PP>
Thanks for your time, John G <<Need to do all inside seams... you'll see. RMF>>
Durango CO

Juwel Vision 260 missing top cross brace...  6/15/06
Hiya
<And you>
I can't find any info on specifically Juwel vision 260l ( bow fronted) tanks where the top cross brace is missing and how to go about replacing it.
<Maybe not this brand/model specifically, but here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqrepairfaqs.htm
and the linked files above... Or use the Google search tool on WWM with the terms "glass tank center brace" and look at the cached versions>
I bought this tank last week, set it up on Sunday and NOW i realize it should have a cross brace at the top (it has one as part of the plastic trim at the bottom) - why i never noticed i don't know.
This tank is now FULL its bowing out slightly (as in the front and back flaps don't meet the sides of the tank by about 2/8" and i realize i must do something NOW.
<Yes... drain it down at least halfway in the meanwhile>
Do Juwel do replacements, the brace was plastic and has been removed possibly by the *insert expletive here* guy who sold it me who had used it as a marine tank with MH lighting, so i can only assume it was originally part of the plastic top trim (its not quite 'trim' it does seem fairly structural).
Since its unlikely i can get a replacement quickly (I've looked and i can only find replacement hood flaps) can you suggest some sort of DIY construction - i do have available some pine planks and suitable screws to make a temp. cross brace but something made of metal that sits below the lighting unit would eventually be better.
I'm also rubbish at DIY...
<I would not do this then... have a stockist recommend someone>
I'm going to drop the water level by about 2/3ds will that help or should i drop it more - tank is currently understocked but i have nowhere else to put the inhabitants.
<And sell or lease you a replacement tank in the meanwhile>
Hope you can help as i am panicking right now.
Emma
<I'd contact Juwel re or one of their larger, more local distributors: http://search.msn.com/results.asp?a=e44a7d1edf2ab77f1c37cb562cde7f61577fcd3f6225690ade0a d40bd4d3d7f5&RS=CHECKED&Form=HM&cp=1252&v=1&q=who+makes+Juwel+aquariums%3F
Bob Fenner>

Re: Juwel vision 260 missing top cross brace...  6/15/06
Thank you for your prompt reply and help.
<Welcome Emma>
I have contacted my best LFS who are Juwel distributors and whilst sadly 90% of the staff have gone to the pub to watch the football,
<Heee! So is our roommate of 14 years... Peter, from Yorkshire>
the person I spoke to believes it IS possible to order replacement plastic top trim and cross brace from Juwel so hopefully I can order that
tomorrow. Meanwhile I have someone making me a metal cross brace that should sit under the hood.
<Ah, good>
I have dropped the tank level to just over 1/2 full (anything less and my angelfish cannot swim upright! they are BIG).
<Mmm, good as well>
Thank you again for your help - I have been reading the wetwebmedia for over a year now and have found all kinds of useful information, its
now one of the first places I turn to when in doubt.
Emma
<A pleasure to serve. Bob Fenner>

Big Mistake...How do I fix it? 100% Silicone, Toxic systems   6/13/06
I hate to bother you as I know you guys are busy helping people with real problems that can be solved but here goes anyway. I had a very badly
designed sump setup (wet/dry u-tubed to a 10 gallon refugium u-tubed to a 10 gallon sump)
<Yikes... U-tubes are not to be trusted...>
that I tore down hoping to build something similar (no u-tubes, entirely in a 55) using the EPDM baffling I read about here. Well, after setting it up with the EPDM, I realized that the baffles were not going to stay in place, water pushing them over. I quickly used GE Silicone II to silicone the baffles into place. (I did not notice until way too late that it says "not for use on aquariums").
<Yikes... want to avoid types with "Mildewcides", other additives... Use only 100%...>
  I also only let it dry for about 12 hours.
<Needs 24...>
I have removed the sump completely while I allow the new silicone to cure. I performed about a 50% water change. All of my fish seem to be O.K. I have no filtration at all while the silicone is curing.  So, since I have lost every SPS in my tank and all of my soft corals look terrible and my 10-12" anemone has shriveled up to about 2" I was wondering what you think I should do to help alleviate the problems and get my tank ready to house corals again?
<... if it were me/mine, I'd cut away all the present Silicone and re-do this with 100%... Or, buy a new sump...>
How long should I wait before trying to add any corals again?
Thanking you in advance for the extreme wealth of knowledge you provide to me and many other people with this aquarium obsession.
<Do take the long view here... You don't want to have mal-lingering dread re toxicity issues... cut out this "door/window" Silastic and replace it. Bob Fenner>

Leak Repair Advice Needed :)    6/4/06
Hello Crew, (my heroes)
<C>
Thank you for all the valuable info, effort, experience, and time you put in for anyone who might be lost like me here. LFS fish store I work at had a problem with one of the "feeder" (I hate this term) tanks. Basically a 90gal tank with a leak at the right bottom part and in the middle.
<Sounds like a Marineland unit...>
Silicon kind of stretched and started a minor leak. This I assumed cause by the weight of the water leaning on that side because after looking I saw it was not level.
<Could easily be...>
The tank was under warranty so I got the "trash". Questions:
1- Well would the razor/reseal trick work in this case and be reliable?
<Should do fine... if all is cut away, replaced>
2- And/or Should I patch the repair job with a 90degree acrylic piece all the way to the corners?
<Mmm, no... acrylic to acrylic bonds poorly with Silastic, acrylic to glass even more poorly>
3- Also should I completely remove the trim or just try to clean it up with razor/acetone and not mess with the whole trim?
<I'd do the whole inside trim for sure.>
A million thanks
CBora.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Large Tank Questions and Outcome of Silicone II  5/29/06
Hey guys, wanted to bounce a few plywood tank questions off of ya and provide experience input concerning Silicone II. First things first, I have two large tanks which I recently set back up (long story), I used swimming pool paint which worked VERY well and had no adverse effects on SPS or other livestock. Long story short, when I set them back up, I used Silicone II to reseal the corners of the tanks. It has now been 2 months, I am getting consistent trite readings of .025 (Salifert), not high but it should be 0. I am now faced with daunting task of replacing the silicone with Silicone I. (I tried everything including adding live bacteria, carbon, Purigen, all types of stuff, bottom line, at least in my experience is that Silicone II isn't reef safe, live rock is 8 years old)
<Yikes...>
Now on to the large tank questions. I searched all over, including GARF for info on epoxies. Swimming pool paint with plywood tanks works for several years but ultimately you end up with micro cracks in the paint that need to be patched with silicone or repainted. I am building a tank that would be approximately 1500 gallons, I want to use a reef safe epoxy but I cant locate where to buy Rustoleum or DuPont potable water epoxies, do you guys know of anywhere, or know of any alternative epoxies that might work?
<Mmm, I'd look into your local swimming pool supply places here. I have used Nelson/Nelsonite with good results as well as (more pricey) Spar products (intended for the boating industry)>
I have also come to the conclusion that since this will be a reef, I am best using glass versus acrylic since acrylic will ultimately get pitted by coralline (I even looked into Polycarbonate but from  what I understand it bows too easily). The glass dimensions would be front panel 96"x30", would 3/4" Starbrite or Starfire glass be thick enough in your experience?
<Yes>
From what I have read it is reinforced glass, and while pricey, is much stronger
As always thanks,
Tom
<Thank you for sharing Tom. Bob Fenner>

Chips in tank   5/28/06
Hello,
<Mornin'>
I have spent some considerable time trying to locate an answer to my question, with no luck so far.  I had recently acquired a used 75 gallon aquarium.  Since it is about 5 or so years of age, the scratches on the tank did not concern me.  There is a chip on the outside edge of the tank, but the glass is very thick and it looks only to be a surface nick.  Do I need to be concerned about that?
<Maybe yes/no... Less so if "near the top", not deep/large...>
As far as I can see, it's not near the silicone.  The tank has been set up for about 2 weeks now, with fish and plants in it for the last week and a half.  While maintaining the tank today, I noticed some chips/nicks on the inside of the tank walls.  I'm not sure if they were there when I first acquired the tank or if they somehow recently appeared (though I wouldn't know how).  I am using a Coralife lighting system with full spectrum lights for the plants, which can cause the water to get hotter, even though the lights come with fans.  I have also installed another fan which is helping to circulate the air under the canopy and keep the water temp down, but the temperature of the water is still
slightly over what the heater is set at.
It varies around 80-81 degrees (which I have been told by a fish "expert" that that is no cause of concern; although it did get to 82 degrees today, but not sure if that is influenced by the room temp being at 81-82, not yet using the AC).
<This should be fine>
Anyway, the chips/nicks are very small, the biggest one no larger than the pinpoint of a pen and they are in the middle of the glass, not anywhere near the silicon sealant; there are a handful or so on the same panel though very small in size.    Should I be concerned about these chips?
<Seems like you are... but likely no problem>
I don't want to come home to a carpet full of water and dead fish/plants, so it has me a little worried.  Any suggestions as to how I can seal or fix the chips, apart from buying a new tank (which is something I would prefer not to do, especially since the glass of this tank is very thick).  Thank you for any help you can provide!
Michella
<Mmm, some glass can be "filled"... some shallow pitting can be "ground down"... but these are very likely cost-prohibitive (more than a new tank). If the tank is fine thus far, it will likely continue to be. Bob Fenner>

Removing fish during silicone curing?    5/27/06
I just had a mishap with my 25 gallon aquarium. I hit the corner of the tank about 3" from the top and it chipped the edge and made a crack extending out and up about 3".
< That is no fun at all! >
The inside corner seal is intact and so far the water just beads up on the outside of the crack.
< So far is key here! >
I brought the water level down below the crack which I temporarily sealed on the outside of the take with duct tape until I can fix the problem.
< You aren't from the south, are you? Around here, we use duct tape for just about everything! >
My question is, since the crack is high enough to repair the tank without draining it completely do I have to remove the plants, angel fish and crayfish while the silicone cures?
< It would be a good idea not to have them in the tank while it cures. >
The fish are still small and I was hoping to wait till Christmas to get a larger tank.
< That is always a great Christmas present! >
Will sealing the crack with silicone give me this extra time or do I just call it an early Christmas?
< I would call it a much warranted early Christmas present. >
I know 100% silicone is safe for fish after it's cured, but I can't find any info about during the curing process.
< The fumes given off are fairly toxic while curing. It is better to err on the side of caution! >
Thanks for your help.
< You are very welcome! >
Sue
< RichardB >

Aquarium repairs 5/18/06
Hi,
<Hello>
I would like to know what type of glass is typically used for aquariums. I was told by someone that "sapphire glass" is to be used, but they didn't know how to get it.
<Probably referring to "Starfire" glass, which a high grade of glass used on high end aquariums, tends to be very expensive.  Unnecessary, but does look very nice>
Can just regular clear glass be used? And the reason I ask is I'm replacing a front pane on a 40 gal tank. I'm not fretting about the repair, just the glass I need.
<As long as the thickness is correct, a normal pane of glass available at a local glass shop should suffice.  When in doubt verify that the strength of the glass is appropriate with the glass shop.>                                                           Thank very much for your time and valued info.
<Chris>

Leaking 300g Glass Tank - 05/15/2006
Hi, I read through all of you FAQ's on tank repair and did not find my problem, so here goes...
<Alright....>
I have a 300 gallon tank purchased many years ago, last year I moved  it into a new house and moved the tank. Heavy Machinery vibrated my house and the tank sprung a leak (lost about 200 gallons onto new carpet and into the  basement!)  
<Yeeee-ikes!>
I drained the tank, took out the old silicone, cleaned the  seams with alcohol and put in the new silicone. It held about a year!  And last night sprung a leak again (in the exact same place!)
<Nooooo!>
about 8 inches from the bottom. My wife is sick of the tank ruining the house.... and wants it gone!
<Understandable.>
I love the tank, but I don't know what else to do? Is there an epoxy or something stronger I can use?
<Just silicone....  Maybe a thicker, wider seal this time....  But I find it disconcerting that it leaked in exactly the same place again.  I would be concerned about a problem with the glass in that spot.>
The Tank has a frame on the top and bottom with screws that could be tightened, I am scared to tighten them with fear of going to far and cracking the glass.
<Not knowing enough about your specific tank, I'm not qualified to make a recommendation on that.>
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
<To be quite honest, I would suggest that you look into getting an acrylic aquarium, or having one built to match the dimensions of your current tank so you can re-use your same stand, canopy, etc....  And you can approach your wife with the reassurance that a professionally built acrylic tank is pretty unlikely to leak under normal circumstances.  The expense of the acrylic tank may very well be worth it, considering the money you'll save in carpeting the next time the glass one springs a leak....  Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Center Brace on 150G Oceanic  - 05/10/2006
Hi,
<Hello Joe>
I'm looking at a used 150G Oceanic, and seller says he dropped it while moving, which broke the center brace.
He removed what remained of the center brace.
Can I safely go with this tank if I get the local glass shop to cut me a "brace" of the same size?
<Likely so, yes>
From reading FAQs, it looks like I'll first want to remove all traces of the old silicone.  You've said to use an
"organic" solvent?  Which one is best/easiest for this purpose?
<Xylene is best IMO/E, but others with a high evaporation rate will do. I'd wear chemical resistant gloves and use in an area of good ventilation... good single-edged razors remove most all. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Joe

Re: Center Brace on 150G Oceanic  - 5/11/06
Thanks for the reply!  Would a correctly-sized piece of acrylic work just as well, or is it best to "stick" with glass?
<Good question, and no... should be glass... of adequate thickness... 3/8, even 1/2", and 100% Silastic/Silicone. Bob Fenner>

New aquarium cracked/shipped - 2/5/06
Hey! I bought a new, second hand, fish tank to day, quite large about1m long 30cm wide and 40cm tall (for £10!!!!),
<sounds like a good deal>
but as I was getting it in my house I clipped it on my garden wall and it has taken quite a big chip out of the corner and a crack is running about 6cm down it.
<Oh no!>
Is there a way i can repair it (because I cant afford a new tank!!)
The chip might've been OK, but the crack sounds far too dodgy... Only option likely left is to replace the side panel(s) with new glass. Depending on the glass shops you approach, it may be cheaper/easier to hunt around on message boards or auction sites for another tank.>
If you could help that would be great!
Thanks Robyn
<Best regards,  John>

Glass aquarium repair  4/28/06
Hey guys,
   <And some of the tender gender>
  I have looked on several sites but have not found anyone else with my problem.  Currently own several tanks including a bowfront 46G and a generic 55g.
<Not a problem>
Over the past 5 months, both of these tanks have been sitting outside in hot/humid Florida with no water inside.  After bringing them inside and washing them in order to reset up, I noticed air bubbles along the seal of the 55 (actually on the inside of the seal not in contact with the air) and on the 46 bowfront the glue is slightly separating from the glass (not enough to leak but its there.  The tanks don't leak (at least not enough to be noticed) but I want to avoid the coming BOOM and soaked carpet.  I am thinking of resealing both tanks to prevent the waterfall.  If they aren't leaking, should I bother with the reseal?
<Mmm, I would not... if these were commercially made, there is more of a chance of trouble with cutting out, replacing the Silastic than not. I would test fill these tanks in a safe place... on stands... and see if they leak.>
If/when I release, do I need to be using clamps or how should I keep the glass steady and square?   
  Thank you   
  Your avid fan,   
  DK
<Can be clamped, even just sturdy-taped if the panels are set on a level, planar surface during construction, particularly if the bottom is not "floated" (i.e. the sides, front/back viewing panels are set on it. Bob Fenner>

Older tank  - 04/27/06
Hi, I bought a 75g that never had a center brace (top or bottom).  It is a lot heaver than my friends 75g.   So I was wondering how old this tank could be, is the glass tempered and if adding a center brace to the top would be a good idea?
Thanks
     Phil
<Mmm... have never seen a commercially made 75 that didn't have a center brace... I would likely add one here. Bob Fenner>

Equipment/Tank Bracing  04/17/2006
Hello Crew,
<Hello Garen>
I am afraid I just did something stupid that I can't fix now.  I have a 46 gallon bowfront aquarium and I just got a Metal Halide light to illuminate the tank.  Well, there was this flimsy plastic piece that ran across the middle of the tank (front to back) and it is (was) attached to the plastic rim that borders the top of the tank.  Seeing that this plastic piece was in the center and I of course wanted to center the new light over the tank, I proceeded to detach this center piece by means of an acrylic-cutting knife.  I didn't know how much purpose this plastic piece served until I severed it from the front part of the aquarium.  After cutting the piece from the front I noticed that the "bow" front of the aquarium moved out about 1/2" to 3/4" !!  I figured that I was screwed anyway so I removed the center piece from the back part of the tank.  Do y'all think that I am going to wake up to a bunch of carpet-surfing fish in the morning or will the tank be okay?  If it isn't going to be okay, then do you guys have any suggestions on how to remedy this problem that I created?
<"Uh oh" was an understatement, that is a sizeable increase on a tank that size.  I'd ask the dealer where you bought the tank to order you a new top piece and replace.  You will have to drain enough water until new brace fits on the tank.  Obviously the light cannot be placed in the same position it was.  You will need to raise the fixture and add a cooling fan between the fixture and the tank.>  
Thank you,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Garen Wright

Equipment/Aquariums/Repair  04/17/2006
Bob,
<James today.>
I have an urgent question!  This evening, I noticed that the center brace on my 55 gal saltwater aquarium had somehow melted and broken in two.  As a
result, the glass is bowed out about 1/2 inch on either side of the tank.
Do I need a new tank immediately, and do you have any hints on transferring all of the critters to a new setup without die off?
<Some braces are installed to support glass tops and lighting.  A thin glass thickness will require use of bracing.  You really
need to contact the tank manufacturer and find out if it is necessary.>
Thanks!!!
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Philip J. Stokes

Re: Equipment/Aquariums/Repair   4/21/06
Dear Mr. Dog,  <Phil>
Thanks for your guidance.  <You're welcome.> For future reference, All-Glass Aquarium says that the center brace is required for the structural integrity of the tank.
When the glass is bowed, it can cause the seams to peel apart over time, and with a 55 gal tank it could cause rupture or eventual leakage.
All-Glass does sell replacement frame parts, but installation should usually take place in a clean, dry tank.
I ended up repairing the brace using a piece of 1/4" plexi-glass and some nylon bolts.  I drilled through the old brace and connected the two sides
back together with the plastic.  It's held up pretty well so far and I think it will do until I decide to get a bigger tank someday.
<Problem solved.>
Thanks again!  <You're welcome and thank you for the update.  Will post on our site.  James (Salty Dog)>
Phil

-Tank Leaking-  - 04/15/06
I have a 150 gallon show tank. Last night I noticed a leak coming from somewhere on the bottom of the tank.
<Not good>
I do not see any cracks. I have removed everything from the tank and now I am trying to figure out what to do. I have read some of the postings on your web site regarding leaks. My question is I think the inner seal on the back side - bottom of the tank is where it is leaking from. Do I need to just remove the silicone on that side and reseal it ?
<Probably that is all it needs, however if it is down and apart, you might as well reseal the entire edge or the tank.  if one seal gave way,  the others might not be far behind.>
or do I need to disassemble the whole bottom of the tank and reseal? The leak itself was a slow steady drip and water was as even around the top of the trim on the tank. That being said do I also need to remove the trim and reseal that as well? Any advice will be very much appreciated.
  Thank You
  Zoltan
<Resealing just the side that is leaking should fix the issue, however a complete reseal of that panels inner edges will probably be wise.  Is the tank not level on its stand?  If it isn't it can cause undo pressure on the seals and create a leak.> <<RMF would definitely at least try resealing all the inside seams (can leak in one area on the inside, a totally different area on the outside... and for sure, test this tank outdoors before re-setting up inside>>
<Justin (Jager)>

Pulling An Aquarium Out Of Storage    4/4/06
Hi crew, I was browsing your site, but didn't find quite the answer I need...
I have just pulled my things out of storage, including a 29 gallon aquarium.  It has been stored for 2 years (nicely wrapped and crated by professionals). My question is this...should I be concerned about the quality of the seal?  Is there a way I can test it without filling the whole thing? It was only about 2 years old when it went into storage.
Thanks! Jill
< Usually aquariums placed in direct sun and stored outdoors are the ones that are the biggest risk. Push on the silicon seal in the corners. It should still feel spongy with some push. As long as it is not hard I would think it is OK. I would still fill it up to double check.-Chuck>

Cracked tank      3/17/06
Hello
I have a 4ft tank and it has a crack at the top of a side panel about 2inch down, and wanted to know if it will hold with water in and if not what is best way to repair it?
Thanks
Stephen Smith
<... need to remove, replace this panel. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/aqrepairfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Poor English, glass tank const. concern  3/16/06
have noticed that were the two pieces of glass connect at the corner of my tank theirs a air bubble. Its very small the size of a period, theirs 3 very very small bubbles next to it but their so small you couldn't tell they're bubbles. its hard to explain exactly were they are but their between two slaps of glass, were the glass lays on top of each other. The bubbles may have been their forever and they have not gotten bigger. I was told that it should not cause a leak and that this is common and not to worry, is that true should I worry?
>> Do not worry, it is common for these small bubbles to show in the silicone. Unless they grow continuously it will not be a threat to the tank. Oliver.

Re: Air Bubble In Silicone - 03/16/2006
Sorry about the punctuation,
<And grammar, spelling, lack of capitalization...Still not fixed?>
but I realized I forgot to add that it's really like three air bubbles but the biggest one is the size of a period. You don't think I should worry?
<Only about your poor mastery of the English language. - Josh>

Air Bubble In Silicone - 03/15/2006
I have a question about my tank. My tank has a small bubble were the two pieces of glass connect at the corner of the tank. I think it has been there for a while or maybe forever but I just noticed it two weeks ago and the bubble has not gotten any bigger. When I say bubble its very small like the size of this period.
<Not uncommon. Just an air bubble, no trouble. In the future, please capitalize the proper nouns/beginnings of sentences. Helps us out. Thanks. - Josh>
pls help

Where Did You Guys Get Your Facts From - 03/25/2006
Hi, where did you guys get your facts from. Meaning, where did you learn this.
<The same way you would learn anything I suppose. Reading, researching, talking to others, sharing experiences...Josh>   <<And some wonder what has happened to the U.S.... RMF>>

Can A Scratch Get Bigger Or Wider Over Time - 03/25/2006
Dude, one last question then I will never bother you with my bad English again. Can a scratch get bigger or wider over time?
<No, at least not without being a SERIOUS "scratch". A crack on the other hand...Josh>