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FAQs about Burrfishes, Porcupinefishes Compatibility
Related Articles:
Burrfishes/Porcupinefishes, Puffers in
General,
Puffer Care and Information,
A Saltwater Puffer Primer: Big Pufferfish! by Mike Maddox,
Pufferfish Dentistry
By Kelly Jedlicki and Anthony Calfo,
True Puffers,
Freshwater Puffers, Tobies/Sharpnose
Puffers, Boxfishes,
Puffer Care and Information
by John (Magnus) Champlin,
Things That My Puffers Have Told Me by Justin Petrey,
Related FAQs: Diodontids 1,
Diodontids 2, Diodontids 3,
Burrfish Identification, Burrfish
Behavior, Burrfish Selection,
Burrfish Systems, Burrfish Feeding,
Burrfish Disease, Burrfish
Reproduction, Puffers in General, Puffer
Selection, Puffer Behavior,
Puffer Systems, Puffer Feeding,
Puffer Disease,
Puffer Dentistry,
Puffer Reproduction, True Puffers,
Freshwater to Brackish Puffers,
Tobies/Sharpnose Puffers, Boxfishes,
Need to be kept with peaceful, non-aggressive feeders... to get
their share of foods. | 
|
With Lionfish species?
Damsels? | Not a good idea... eat all the food,
possibly the Lion/s. Maybe get poked...
Tasty! |
Puffer ate my Chromis! & Stocking question 4/3/2009
Hello from Florida and thank you for all you do for the saltwater keeper
community, I cannot tell you how many times I have had your website's
search feature save me from making utterly stupid mistakes with my
tanks.
<Hi Dante, thank you for the kind words. This is Mike, also from
Florida.>
A truly wonderful website and a most knowledgeable and helpful staff of
experts. I tried to find answers for my questions through the web and by
reading 4 different books but just can't seem to find answers, so here I
am risking asking a stupid question.
<The only stupid question is the one that goes unasked.>
Here are my tank's basics:
110 gallon "tall" tank that is 48" wide and 30" tall.
120 lbs live rock
3" aragonite substrate
30% Water change every 2 weeks.
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5ppm
Temperature 78F
Ph 8.2
Additives: CaribSea Purple Up
Wet/Dry Filter with bioballs
In the Sump:
Coralife 125 Needle wheel skimmer
1.5 Kg of Seachem Denitrate
1 liter of Seachem Purigen
1 liter of Marineland Black Diamond
1 Polyfilter.
<Thank you for the detail, it makes it much easier to troubleshoot
problems.>
Livestock:
26" Zebra Moray Eel ((Gymnomuraena zebra)
3" Porcupine Puffer (Diodon holocanthus)
5" Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens)
4" One Spot Foxface (Siganus Unimaculatus)
1- 0.5" Blue-Green Reef Chromis (Chromis Viridis)
1-1" Blue-Green Reef Chromis (Chromis Viridis)
Running for 4 months
My fish are quarantined by my LFS in a separate system as a favor from
the owner.
<Excellent>
2 weeks ago, I added 15 Chromis weighing the possibility of adding too
many with the safety numbers provide from the Puffer and I ended up
wrong.
<Ouch>
I took the risk because in my opinion there just wasn't enough activity
in the tank. Puffer ate 8 of them and gave heart attacks to 5, leaving
only 2, one of which is one of the smallest ones. The 2 that are left
swim in front of the puffer and all around him and he doesn't seem to
care. Any insight as to why he has spared 2 of them?
<He hasn't gotten around to eating them yet. Do make sure you are
feeding your puffer the appropriate foods, it can help with aggression
issues.>
I really like the variety that the smaller fish bring, could I add 2 or
three aggressive damsels, or would they also become lunch?
<Depending on the size and\or temperament, it is a definite
possibility.>
Additionally, I cannot decide on what to finish stocking with. I like
the Niger Trigger but it gets too large and would eat the Chromis, a
Maroon Clown would beat up the Chromis or damsels (if I add them), a
Coral Beauty angel or fire angel seem too delicate, Heniochus butterfly
also seems too delicate. Another tang would fight with my yellow.
< I agree with, though a large enough Maroon Clown could probably hold
its own, they are more aggressive than other Clowns and get to 6" in
length.>
Those are the fish I've been looking at. Is there any possibility that
any or some of them could work out well? I do not want fish that won't
be active, hide, sit on the substrate all day, get too large for me to
properly care for them, will eat my fish, or will fight with and kill my
fish. It seems I may have to get rid
of the 2 remaining chromis and not get damsels to go the predatory fish
route, or be super diligent and take a risk by going the delicate fish
route.
<I would return the Chromis (if you can catch them)>
I am responsible for my current and future fish for being taken from the
ocean and I want to provide the best care possible. Any suggestions at
all would be wonderful. I am stumped, please guide me and help me avoid
making a mistake with stocking my fish tank. Any other suggestions you
may have about my setup would certainly be welcome.
<Any tankmates for a Puffer need to be able to defend themselves,
unfortunately, this limits what you can put in with them. I think a
larger Maroon Clown, perhaps a pair, without an Anemone would be
appropriate
here.
I am not fond of Damsels personally, I find they get too belligerent
over time to anything, up to and including you.>
Thank you so much, and you have my greatest respect as the experts that
you are. Thanks again for
providing such a great resource to us all.
<My Pleasure, do write back if you have other questions..
-Dante
<Mike>
Re: Puffer ate my Chromis! & Stocking question 4/3/2009
<Hi Dante>
Thank you so much for such an incredibly quick response. I will try to
remove the Chromis today and spare their lives. I will also have my LFS
order me a maroon clown to start the quarantine.
<Very Good>
Just one more question. Am I correct in assuming that the other
possibilities are out? In other words, the trigger gets too large and
aggressive.
<Too big, Yes>
The coral beauty, and Heniochus are just too delicate & high
maintenance, or would large ones likely do well? Would another tang
would probably just create conflict with my current one, regardless of
size?
<Not so much delicate or high maintenance, although some of them are,
but more apt to get beaten up by the Puffer. The problem with adding
another Tang is it will get larger - thus overcrowding your tank.>
I've read countless profiles and compatibility info as well as FAQ's and
possible diseases on these species and that's what they seem to convey.
I would really like more color and movement in my tank but don't want to
doom a new addition due to my ignorance. Thank you so much for your help
and support.
<My Pleasure>
-Dante
<Mike>
Lionfish and Puffer 3/7/09
I am wanting to put a lionfish and porcupine puffer in a 75 gallon tank.
<Really?> I read on your site that the puffer will eat the lions fins,
<They can, will.> but I also read on your site that if you get them and the
lion is bigger and you introduce them at the same time they are fine together.
<Possible.> What do I do? <Fairly simple here, these cannot be kept
together in a tank this size of tank. See:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/puffercompfaqs.htm> ~ Cari ~ <Scott V.>
Lionfish/Boxfish Compatibility –
03/07/09 Hello Crew, <Kevin> First off, love the site is a
huge help. <Ah, good> Currently in the process of establishing a new tank.
It is a 4x2x2 and will contain two ribbon eels and two dwarf fuzzy lionfish.
<Mmm... Kev... Ribbon eels are very hard to keep... and Lions are too likely to
spine/sting them...> I have spent a lot of time preparing myself and my tank
for these two especially the eels. I have noticed that on the compatibility
chart on LiveAquaria.com *linked from a previous FAQ*
(www.liveaquaria.com/general/compatibility_chart.cfm) that the boxfish is
compatible with eels and lions. <Mmm, somewhat... but not really... Like all
"puffers", too likely to sample/bite both groups of fishes> I suppose my
question is simply, how can this tiny little fish <Which species? Some
Ostraciids get feet long> be compatible when everything I have read tells me
the lion will eat whatever will fit in its mouth, which would be easily be the
boxfish? Thanks in advance Kevin <I'd re-think this entire stocking
plan... It won't work. Bob Fenner>
Solar Wrasse in a Puffer Tank ~
01/12/09 Hello, <Hello Jessy here> I am about to purchase a
Solar Wrasse to replace my Coris that bellied up this weekend. <Sorry to
hear. My Coris is one of my favorite fish> The question that I have, will the
Solar Wrasse and my puffer get along? Right now I have a 30 cube with my
porcupine puffer and a clown (soon to be upgraded to a 90 bow front)...The
puffer has eaten a couple of fish when they were sleeping, he never bothered the
Coris because he would ditch in the sand at night. I have read that Solar
Wrasses do not go to sand but rather find a hiding place in the rock? <You
are right that the solar wrasse sleeps in the rock and the Coris sleeps in the
sand. I would assume that if the puffer can fit it in its mouth the fish will be
in danger sleeping in the rocks. Just as all your other fish have fallen victim
to the hungry puffer. It will be at your own risk that you add this beauty of a
wrasse> Any suggestions would be fantastic. Thanks. Timothy N. Wells
<Regards, Jessy> <<This system is too small for this Puffer alone... will
very likely damage any other fish. RMF>>
Dog faced / Porcupine puffer, comp. 06/30/08 Hello, I
have a 10cm dog faced puffer just finishing quarantine and going into my
900 gallon main tank. <Finally a Dogface puffer in a tank with
sufficient size!> I have also bought a 25cm porcupine puffer which
will of course be going into the quarantine tank once vacated by the
doggie. In addition to the main tank, I have a 185 gallon tank on the
same system. Will I be able to put the puffers together in the main tank
or should I put one of them in the 185g tank? The main tank is very
under stocked so there is a lot of room. <I am assuming your
porcupine puffer is a Diodon holocanthus (?). Unless you have an
unusually aggressive Porcupine puffer (or extremely nippy Dogface) they
should get along fine in your main tank, especially since the larger
fish is added last. I would certainly watch their first meetings and
feedings, though.> Thanks again, James. <Cheers and good luck.
Marco.> Spiny
Box Puffer and Radiata Lionfish, in/comp. 4/11/08 Hey
folks, My name is Jordan and I'm new to marine aquariums but I learned
early on that homework is a crucially important role in the well being
and longevity of your fish and aquarium. <Hi Jordan, Pufferpunk here.
Well put!> Anyway, I've been searching all over the web and I've so
far gathered only speculation not much personal experience so here goes:
Question: Are Spiny box puffers compatible with Radiata Lion fish? <I
kept my juvenile Spiny boxfish (Chilomycterus schoepfi), with a dwarf
fuzzy lion in a 40g tank & they ignored each other. As far as the
Radiata lionfish , are you sure you’ll be able to find one for sale? The
Radiata Lionfish is not available in the shops as often as other
Lionfishes and because of this is more expensive and highly sought after
by saltwater hobbyists. Radiata Lionfish are very similar looking to the
Antennata Lionfish (Pterois antennata) but is distinguished by the
horizontal lines on the caudal peduncle. Lionfish in general are usually
fairly hardy but they do need excellent filtration and highly oxygenated
water provided through the use of powerheads and airstones. My other
concern would be that Spiny boxfish have a poor rate of survival in
captivity, due to most coming in with severe internal parasites (needing
to be treated several times to totally irradiate them) & then getting
them to eat. You may have a difficult time getting your Radiata lionfish
to start eating also.> System Information: I have a 75 gallon tank
with an Emperor 400 filter, 100 LBS of sand substrate (50lbs non live
sand underneath 50 lbs of live sand.) 50 lbs of live rock. Will continue
to add porous non-live rock. The tank is in day 6 since I've added the
live rock. It is still cycling. I will cycle for about 3-4 weeks to
allow for the die off to be filtered out and the ammonia levels to
stabilize. My water clarity is crystal clear SG is at a stable 1.023 and
pH is sitting at an optimal 8.3. Running a particulate filter and after
week one I will add the carbon filter in addition to the particulate. I
will add the live rock nutrients in week 2 to allow for better live rock
health. <Not necessary.> I have a single runner light set up with
a full spectrum fluorescent bulb. A foot long bubbler tube on the back
glass of the tank centered behind the rock. <A freshwater HOB filter
isn’t generally on a marine tank, unless you want to use it for chemical
filtration. I suggest a good protein skimmer instead.> What I'm
thinking: Since the lionfish enjoys darker environments and the puffer
fish enjoy brightly lit aquariums, I'd do a semi-opaque plastic insert
in half of the bulb runner to dim down half of the tank. <Better
idea: Radiata lionfish are nocturnal in the wild and like to hang out in
caves and crevices so it's a good idea to try and replicate this in the
home aquarium. Create a cave with the live rock in your tank to make
them feel secure. Once they are acclimated to the tank and more
comfortable with their surroundings they should come out more and hide
less.> I was planning on having clown fish in the tank for about 2-3
weeks prior to adding the puffer and lionfish to ensure a stable bio
system and that the tank is well established. <Not necessary if you
are regularly testing the water. Ammonia will spike, then nitrite &
after the nitrate spikes & ammonia/nitrite are 0, you can do a large
water change, bringing down the nitrate & add your fish.> If it turns
out that they will co-habitate well, I will add them into the tank
together on the same day. For diet I was thinking of feeding them
saturated brine or ghost shrimp (I've heard ghost are equally viable for
marine or fresh water) for their staple. The only thing I can think of
is that the puffer would eat all the shrimp before the Radiata would
have a chance to feed. Also they will grow to similar size and the other
fish that I would add would generally be no smaller than 4" ideally.
<Live foods are a good start to getting these fish to eat, as this is
what they are used to in the wild. You really need to get them onto more
nutritious meaty (dead) foods (& crunchy foods, for the puffer’s teeth)
ASAP. This can be time-consuming, as you will have to bounce foods off a
thread for each of these fish for some time, before they recognize it as
food.> Also, in the future I will be adding more porous non-live rock
into the tank to create more hiding places and even add a few slab rocks
to allow for caves. <I’d get that décor (cave) set, before adding
the fish.> The other fish I would add into the tank would be Damsels
any non-aggressive species larger than 4" to avoid them becoming din-din
for the Radiata or the puffer. <Anything smaller than the lion can
become a potential dinner.> At smaller sizes I'm sure that the 75
gallon tank would be sufficiently large to cut down on territorial
disputes. I am intending to upgrade to a 125/250 gallon tank a year or
so down the road also. I generally do not want fish larger than 1 foot
so the community would be a large community of 4-6" fish in exception to
the puffer mayhap a second stripped burr fish (which I'm positive you
know is the same thing as a spiny box puffer.) <My concern would be
that the puffer can grow to a foot & will create quite a large bioload
in any tank. I highly suggest plumbing in as large a sump as you can fit
& include a well-functioning refugium. It is not recommended to keep 2
similar puffers together in the same tank. 1 spiny & 1 smooth (like a
dogface) would be better.> I am looking for personal experiences more
than speculation. I am looking forward to the feedback, as your site is
very helpful. Thank you. <I recently had to give up my Spiny
boxfish. I rescued it at a tiny 2” & knew I’d never have sufficient room
to keep him. I have kept many, many puffers in my time & this fish was
by far, my favorite of all time! The friendliest, most personable,
CUTEST puffer, I’ve ever had the joy of having in my care. He never
killed any of my shrimp, snails or crabs & never was hassled by the
dwarf lion. Stating that, every puffer is different. Puffers are known
for their constant fin-nipping, especially of fish with long flowing
fins. Be warned… ~PP>
Porcupine puffer (Diodon holacanthus) compatibility 3/9/08
I have a 6" Porcupine puffer that I've quarantined for approx. 2 months
(he went thru a bout of ick but now he's cured). He is eating very well,
very alert, and looks good. Question: I have a 500 gallon FOWLR tank
w/ 700#'s live rock (w/ 160 gal sump with huge skimmer) with the
following harmonious inhabitants - 3' Snowflake eel, 2.5' Zebra eel, 5"
Gray angel, 5" Chrysurus angel, 5" Blueface angel, 4" Koran angel, 5"
Rectangular trigger, 7" Guinea Fowl puffer, 12" Lionfish, 6" Bird
wrasse, 8" Desjardini tang, 4" Vlamingi tang, 8" diameter Cortez
stingray (rock bed elevated off sand bed by 6" throughout the tank's 10'
length), and a 12" Broomtail wrasse. Do you think the Porcupine puffer
would make a compatible addition? <I do> I know that nothing's
guaranteed, and I've heard that these puffer types are susceptible to
ick, but if everyone settles in and gets along, I thought the tendency
toward ick would be minimized and this puffer would make a good fit.
What do you think? Thanks in advance for your advice. <I am very
glad... makes two of us, little doubt... that you quarantined this
puffer. It should go fine with the animals listed, in this sized
volume... Bob Fenner>
Chilomycterus antillarum (bridled Burrfish) compatibility – 03/07/08
Hi Crew <Rob> I have used your site for many hours of research and
have even asked a few questions so I am hoping you can help me out. I
recently acquired a Bridled Burrfish approx 3 inches long <Wow,
small> he was at the LFS looking very sorry for himself with a very
concave abdomen, my wife who is a veterinary nurse felt sorry for him so
he was duly bought home to live in a 500 gallon (UK) . He is feeding
well and actually tells you he is hungry and will practically eat out of
your hand!!! <Yes... intelligent fishes (Tetraodontiforms)> Anyway
my question is (well my wife wants to know) is can we get another of
these fish as there was still one at LFS who was in slightly better
condition but whom my wife is worrying about. We have read up about
compatibility with other fish but cant find anything about two burrfish
living together thanks in advance. Yours Rob Hill <Two should
be fine in this volume, starting at this sort of small size. Bob Fenner>
Sick Porcupine Puffer... maybe poked by a Lion, reading
9/28/07 Hi, I have a 100gal. tank with a porq puffer(3 in),
<Will need more room...> 2 yellow tang, and a sm red Volitans
lionfish. The lion (King) and puffer Dave) seem to be best friends
and are always around each other. Over the past few days i have noticed
Dave hiding a lot and only coming out when its time to eat, but my main
concern is two spots or regions on his sides that seamed to have just
appeared. The spots are about the size of a pea and one is light grey
and the other is dark grey. <Mmm, might have gotten poked by the
king> the spots look as if his skin is dying. I have checked my water
parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph...ect) <No such word...
etc., short for et cetera res, is Latin for "and other things"...>
and they are all fine. I have since put him in a QT and i am wondering
what I can do to help him or what is wrong. Also all the other fish are
fine. Thanks <... Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BurrfishDisFAQ2.htm and the linked files
above. Bob Fenner> Problems Feeding My Lionfish
(Puffer/Lionfish Incompatibility) – 05/08/07 Dear Bob,
<<Hello Jason...Eric here this A.M.>> I recently acquires a Lionfish
and a Porcupine Puffer. <<Neat fishes...though not really
compatible>> My problem comes in at feeding time. <<Indeed>>
The Puffer eats everything I put into the tank so the Lionfish doesn't
have a chance to eat. <<Just one of several reasons these two
species do not do well together in typical home displays>> Any
suggestions as to how I can distract the Puffer from taking everything
away from the Lionfish? At one point the Lionfish was ready to suck in
a prawn and the Puffer practically took it out of the Lionfish
mouth. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Best regards,
Jason <<Obviously, the best solution is to have these fishes in
separate systems. Failing that, you can try fabricating/inserting some
type of divider (a piece of acrylic sheet) at feeding times to “corral”
the Puffer away from the Lionfish to give the latter time enough to
feed. Do also keep an eye on these two, especially for signs of fin
damage on the Lionfish as sooner or later the Puffer will likely begin
to chew on its tankmate.. Regards, EricR>> Coris, Porc Puffer
comp. - 1/22/07 Hi there! <Hey, Gary! JustinN with you
today.> Can you please confirm or refute the following
statement. It will go a long in deciding if a Red Coris wrasse would be
compatible with my porcupine puffer. Thanks! <Ok> "Any fish or
animal ( including a Red Coris) that buries in the sand can
inadvertently be bitten by a puffer. It is their natural feeding/hunting
instinct to blow the sand at night and look for food. Many buried
wrasses have fallen victim to a puffer's teeth". <Confirmed, my
friend. -JustinN> Gary Porcupine Puffers (Diodon
holocanthus) and selecting compatible wrasse 1/5/07
Hey guys, <Hey Gary!> I'm looking for a wrasse that would be
compatible with my porcupine puffer. <Porcupine Puffers (Diodon
holocanthus) may nip or attempt to eat smaller active fishes. I would
avoid smaller wrasses such as Fairy (Cirrhilabrus) and Flasher
(Pseudocheilinus) wrasses.> Would a Lunare wrasse be a good tank
mate with my Porc? <Yes, I think this would be an
appropriate choice, assuming this is a fish only system and your tank is
at least 75 gallons.> The Lunare wrasse is beautiful and has lots of
personality, but it seems that they also have a bad reputation as a
nasty fish. <Obviously there are many variables. But I
think as long as the Lunare (Thalassoma lunare) is not housed with
smaller fish, or fish that are similar in shape and size it should be
okay, but it goes without saying that any new introduction should be
carefully observed for any type of problems.>
Thanks for your advice and guidance. <Welcome, good
luck! -Mich> Gary Adding Puffer with an
Aggressive Fish 1/3/07 <Hi, Pufferpunk here I have had my
hippo tang (Dory) in a 125gal FOWLR tank for over a year now. She is
6-7 in long, eats like a pig, & gets along with everyone in the tank,
including a Foxface, Naso tang, Achilles tang (who will be traded as
soon as I can catch him for chasing the Naso), flame angel & Lamarck
angel. I added a 4 in Porc puffer a couple of days ago after he
finished his stint in the QT. The main part of his diet consists of
frozen or freeze dried krill which he eats with gusto. When I feed him
in this tank, Dory the Pig wants in on the action and tries to take his
food & nips at his tail. My puffer doesn't like this too well & hangs
out in his own little cave most of the day, until feeding time, but
swims around freely at night. Is there something I can do to make
feeding time easier on my puffer or will Dory chill out when she gets
used to the newcomer (or he bites back)? Thank you. <Your puffer
will grow to 12" requires a minimum of 100g of room for himself. Adding
more fish, would require a bigger tank. Adding him to a tank with an
aggressive fish is a bad idea. They don't swim as well as more
streamlined fish. They like a quiet, non-aggressive tank to live
in. He may always be bothered by Dory & might eventually stop eating if
having to constantly compete for food. Also, a consistent diet of krill
will cause nutrition deficiencies, causing lock-jaw in puffers. He must
be fed a varied diet of crustaceans: squid, clam. oyster, shrimp,
etc. You have a decision to make here... ~PP>
Porcupine puffer? Feeding, comp., sys. 11/12/06 I have a
75 gallon wet/dry w/sump have 3 damsels 2 purple tip anemones and 1
coral rock that comes to look like flowers moving then goes back into
the rock I have 45-50 lbs. of live rock in the tank also, I want to put
a Porcupine puffer in there about 2-3 inches long, everyone tells me the
porcupine puffer will kill my coral and 2 anemones, is this true?
<Is a possibility, yes> I asked before I purchased them if I could
put that with a porcupine puffer before I bought them and still now they
tell me I can, can I ? also a pet store will not! sell me the
porcupine puffer fish they have had for 1 week now, they tell me they
don't know if it ate or not, then they put live shrimp in there, the
puffer looks at it , but he won't eat it, then he goes up and down the
side of the tank? is there a reason for the up and down up and down the
tank? is it sick? or maybe wants a different food? <Might be
reacting to its reflection... see WWM re Diodontids and marine puffer
feeding...> my water is osmosis, the nitrates and ph and everything
is good, but I want to add the porcupine without it having any problems.
thanks, ICE <Will outgrow this size system as well... If it were
me/mine, I'd look to other species. Bob Fenner>
Re:
Porcupine puffer? Feeding, comp., sys. - 12/29/06 <Hello,
Mich here.> happy to announce I have 2 porcupine puffers and they
get along well with each other and all my other fish and don't bother
anything yet lol <"Yet" being the key word here! -Mich>
Porcupine Puffer Compatibility - 8-14-2006 Hi. We were wondering
if you could help us with the planning phase of a new tank. <<I
shall try!>> We did check the forums, but could not figure out for
sure if this mix would work together. We are moving to a new home and
are going to be acquiring a new 180-gallon tank with sump to replace the
current 55-gallon tank. Currently we have a porcupine puffer (2 1/2"),
devil damsel (who is actually very passive), <<May not be with
age.>> Domino damsel (who will be returned), a globe urchin, and a
hermit crab. The puffer is quite passive and has not harmed the inverts
(although we are prepared for the possibility). We are trying to figure
out what to mix with our current collection. We were thinking of a lunar
or green coris wrasse, coral beauty, flame angel, yellow tang, and a
regal tang. Would this all work together? <<The angels will likely
fight, as may the tangs, or all of them with each other. Do be sure to
add them at the same time to have a chance at peace.>> Our Puffer's
safety is paramount to us and we do not want to add anything that will
harm him. <<He is quite small now. For him to 'rule the roost',
allow him to grow some. Also be aware that he poses a threat to your
other fish.>> Do you think that this would be enough fish, or do we
have room for more? Do you have any suggestions for what else we could
add? <<I personally like species tanks for my puffers, but perhaps a
school of Chromis.>> Thanks for all your help, your web site has
been a great assistance to us. <<Glad to help. Lisa.>> Pam &
Tobe Ptereleotris evides (black Dartfish) immunity to Porcupine
Poison? 7/16/06 Hi, <Hello there> the
question I have is short, the reason is not. I will add the reason just
in case I am on the wrong track. <Okay> Q. Having trawled around
the Web & your as always excellent site I cannot confirm a suspicion, If
the Black Dartfish (Ptereleotris evides) is known at all, to be
resilient or immune to the Porcupine Puffer's toxin (released when
stressed)? <Mmm, don't know> The reason for this question is
that this morning I woke up to a tank of dead fish. The porcupine puffer
was stressed but the two black Dartfish were fine. <Interesting...
could be that they were the smallest... had/have the largest percentage
gill surface area... more sedentary/less need for dissolved oxygen...>
Tank: 90ukgal - 3 year old Filters Fluval 404 on spray bar,
Fluval 304 & LAC 828 Vecton UV15 sterilizer Deltec MCE 600
(considering changing due to bearing noise problem) Lid houses 2 T5
lights & Marine blue Live rock, 3/4" to 1" sand, no corals RO
changes Water quality spot on bar 1mg/l Phosphate (before water
change) Fish established 1- 3 Years: 5" Pink tail Trigger - RIP
Cleaner Wrasse - RIP 4.5" Blue Cheek Goby - RIP Two 4" Monos -
RIP 4" Sailfin Tang - RIP 5" Birdnose Wrasse in final transition
from female to male - RIP 5" Porcupine Puffer - now RIP Two
3.5"-4" Black Dartfish - fine (now, just incase, in other marine tank)
Circumstance: On light feeding last night I noticed two light rocks
out of position (dislodged) - so I repositioned. This morning I
awoke & found all but the puffer & Dartfish dead (Pinktail was
floating). At 80 degrees F & a topped up water level to the spray bar,
<He's likely the one who was "bothering" the puffer> I initially
wondered about oxygen depravation. <Me too> After a couple of
phone calls once the dead were removed, I setup a hasty water change &
did 30% approximately 40 min.s later. <Good move> As my one
available QT tank was set for freshwater due to an ongoing ammonia
problem in my Discus tank (due to a piece of wood in the inlet tube
of my Eheim Wet/Dry making it run low - still awaiting it to cycle as do
daily waterchanges) & the other QT tank is rearing toadfish; I shot
down to my LFS and got some more carbon media. When I left the
Porcupine was still stressed, when I got back he was slightly puffed up
& RIP. On removal he was coated in slime (I assume another toxin
release) & the same rocks were dislodged again. <Strange about the
rocks...> So far I assume a toxin release (some of the RIP fish were
agape - & fairly quick after feeding last night as two out of 4
defrosted frozen shrimp were still left; a big oddity), but to my
amazement the Dartfish were fine/happy??? Taking no chances (I do
anything to help my fish) I transferred them into my reef tank (open
topped with 6" rise above the water, I will be watching for jumps
till I can be sure of the other tank). <Good> I am told the
carbon should clear up the toxin now, but still wonder about the tough
little Black Dartfish. <Me too> Any input would be greatly
welcome/appreciated. Ed <It may well be that microdesmids are
more "immune" to tetradotoxins... or perhaps it was/is something to do
with gaseous exchange at play here. If it were me, mine, I would likely
change about all the water out of the contaminated system... for general
purposes. Bob Fenner>
Re: Ptereleotris evides (black
Dartfish) immunity to Porcupine Poison? 7/18/06 Hi Bob
Fenner, <Ed> Cheers for the reply. Water is being changed + new
carbon (again) & new PolyFilter (told it would be a good idea -
certainly no harm). <Agreed. Bob Fenner> Thanks Ed
Puffer and red Volitans 03/07/06 Hello, I have spent
many countless days/nights searching through your site, and i believe
now it is unavoidable* (at least i think it is) but to ask you the ?
is there anyway i can keep my porcupine puffer with a Volitans lionfish.
<Not a good idea. Have seen done (successfully and not) many times...
but two real problems. One that the Puffer might bite (but good) the
Lion, and more commonly that the Lion will have great difficulties
feeding with the Puffer there...> I personally did not choose the
combination but my wife who went to a certain (very educated I must say,
educated as most common betta owners) LFS name specific PetCo,
<"It's the people, not the store name"> no need discriminate etc.,
but anyhow i have a Volitans with a porcupine and i am wondering if
there is any way that i can make them coexist, i understand its the
porcupines nature to nip at long fins, so i am looking for a way to
sell the Volitans, or provide a comfortable (safe) environment for both
of them. The tank that the Volitans and the porcupine are in is a
75 gallon <Will ultimately be too small for either> with a
divider in the center (estimated 37.5 gallons each) far to small for
each of them individually. In other words what actions can i take to
give them a happy environment? <Really? Two larger tanks... see what
we've both written above> (in addition i have tried to sell the
Volitans but there is not a high demand in my area) any help/suggestions
appreciated Ryan <Classifieds, Craigslist... signs up at the
local fish stores, a call to local marine clubs. Bob Fenner>
Longspine Porcupine Puffer Q 8/24/05 Hey, I have some questions
on Longspine Porcupine Puffers. I have looked through so many books..
first most of them don't have info on Porcupine Puffers, but they do
other ones... okay getting to the point... I wanted to know if a
Porcupine Puffer could be reef safe. <Define "safe"... can/will eat
most any sedentary invertebrate... and fishes for that matter... big
waste producers...> some books so not recommended... others say
"caution", mainly because they eat inverts.. ok (sorry about all the
info) but I was also told just keep an eye on clams. (which I have).
Well to my point once again... I bought a porcupine Puffer today and put
him in my Reef tank, b/c his tank isn't ready yet. and so far he's
just swimming around... up and down the glass. He hasn't touched or bite
anything yet.. so I guess I see tonight if he nips at clams.. YAY
for me.. but ok.. wanted to know if you think they can be reef safe..
and if not, why? Thanks for reading what I had to say, and please
respond when you can, Thanks a lot, Steph <Bob Fenner>
Hungry Puffer 8/15/05 Hi. I have a 55 gallon FO tank. I have a
porcupine puffer (4-5 inches now) who has eaten my two damsels over the
last week. <Happens...> I also have a percula clown and a
small yellow tang. I added the puffer about 6 months ago and at the
time of purchase was unaware how large it would get. <Pays to
investigate...> I then figured I would keep it until it outgrew my
tank. <... dismal> Maybe that time is now. I really don't want
to return him to the LFS but it may be in the best interest of the
remaining fish. <Yes... and the puffers> I have been feeding the
puffer more in hopes of keeping his mind off the clown. Will this work?
<To some extent... but all are likely mal-affected by declining water
quality as a consequence...> What do you suggest? Also if I do
return the puffer could I replace him with a Niger trigger <Not a
good choice, your system is too small, the fish too aggressive> or
would he go after the clown too? I hope to upgrade to a larger tank
(125 I hope) in about a year. Would he be OK in a 55 until then.
Thanks, Chris <No... Enjoy investigating your choices... Bob
Fenner>
Porcupine puffer problem... just crowding 7/18/05
Hello, I have 2 porcupine puffers they are between 5 and 6 inches
long in a 50 gallon tank. I have had them since they were 2 inches long
and now they are fighting a few times a week. Is this normal????
<Mmm, yes> Is it a feeding issue? I feed them frozen krill everyday.
Can you help? Thanks, Tony <Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/puffersysfaqs.htm and on to and
through the linked files at top where you lead yourself. Your animals
need much more space... and to be separated... Bob Fenner>
Fish Computability 7/9/05 Hi, Sal here. <Me here, I
think...> I am going to be setting up a 75 gal. fish only aquarium
and I have a question what kind of clownfish would be compatible with a
porcupine puffer? <I've had a larger maroon, and later on a sebae
with mine for several years, with no problems. In my experience,
porcupines leave clownfish alone> Also if nothing what do you
recommend for fish space? I have heard many different rules, but is it
1in. of fish per gallon, or is it 2? what are your recommendations?
<Using "inches per gallon" is a horrible way to determine stocking
capacity. What you need to look at is the adult size, and the
bioload. The adult size of a porcupine is pretty large, topping out at
a potential 20", but more commonly around 12" in an aquarium. You're
going to need a much larger aquarium as your fish grows. As for
tankmates, I really wouldn't put a lot else in there, as your porky will
be very active and messy! Also, when emailing us please use proper
capitalization, punctuation, and grammar as these responses are archived
for future viewing. Thanks - M. Maddox>
Too much flow for
Burrfish? Bob, <Louis> Thank you for taking the time to
respond to my questions. After thinking about my system and the welfare
of its inhabitants, I finally decided to trade in my puffer, Burrfish
and both eels. It was becoming apparent that my tank ( a 117 gallon)
was too small to house these animals, and I don't think that I will
attempt to keep a puffer or Burrfish again unless my tank is a 240
gallon unit or one of larger capacity. <You are wise here> It
was pretty sad to do, because the Burrfish was a great fish, as was the
dogface puffer. Based on my experience with trying to keep both of
these fish, I would have to advise people to not keep these two fish
together in a tank. <Me too... never seen in close proximity in the
wild...> The dogface, at least mine anyway, is too timid a
personality to compete with the aggressive Burrfish, and I think that
the personalities clashed causing stress on the dogface. He hid in a
cave quite a bit. <Bingo> I am now changing directions with my
tank, and I plan on keeping soft corals and gobies. I should be able to
provide a suitable environment for these small fish and other
invertebrates like clams and shrimp. I will send in a picture when I
feel that the tank is successful. <Real good> Thank you for your
guidance. Lou <Thank you for yours. Bob Fenner>
Porcupine puffer Hi, I purchased a porcupine puffer yesterday and
seemed to be doing great in my tank . He appeared to be getting along
with all my other fish which include: dogface puffer, yellow tang, hippo
tang, Huma trigger, maroon clown, and a copperband butterfly. the
porcupine is the biggest fish in the tank now. this morning I noticed
that my maroon clown's fins are all frayed and looks like he has bite
marks, the yellow tang's top fin is frayed and his white spine or spike
is broken, and the hippo tang's spine/spike is broken as well. is it
normal for a porcupine puffer to be this aggressive? <<Well, I'm not
sure I would use the word aggressive, rather the word opportunistic
comes to mind. For starters, these puffers are quite active at night,
when most of your other fish are wedged into a nook with their tails
sticking out. Next the puffer is quite a curious fish with a fondness
for food, so they will sample just about anything they find, including
their tankmates... just in case they want to be food. Is quite
typical.>> will this behavior continue or is it just cause he is new to
the tank? <<I would predict that the behavior will continue.>>
Thanks, JPK <<Cheers, J -- >> A Tale of Tails Happy
New Year, Bob! I have noticed something peculiar occurring with the 2
Banggai cardinals in our tank. Both of them have mysteriously lost about
1/2" from their tails, one on the upper portion and one from the lower.
The Christmas wrasse also seems to have had a little of his tail nipped
as well. Based on the listing of our inhabitants below, I am curious
as to whom you think may be the culprit, and if I need to be concerned.
All three fish seem to be eating normally, and, except for the tails,
have good appearances and behavior. We do notice the squirrelfish
chasing the wrasse quite a bit, but the squirrel seems to chase many of
our fish, including the cardinals and the Anthias. Here are the
inhabitants of our 95-gallon tank: 2 Banggai cardinals, 1 blue hippo
tang, 1 yellow-eyed (Kole) tang, 1 squirrelfish, 1 clownfish, 1
Christmas wrasse, 1 porcupine Pufferfish, 1 flame hawkfish, 1 coral
beauty, 1 female lyretail Anthias and 1 Foxface Rabbitfish. Also, I
am thinking about adding a longnose hawkfish and a pair of Banner
Butterfly (Heniochus acuminatus). Do you foresee any problems with
adding these three fish based on our current inhabitants? Any possible
problems between the longnose hawk and the flame hawk? Thanks, Mitch
<<Hmm, off-hand I'd suspect the Puffer... these can be wily and nippy in
the cover of night... The new possible additions should go... and maybe
even lessen inter-species aggression by crowding... And the two Hawks
should strike a balance in your size system... If it were me, I'd start
that Puffer on a steady diet of Krill (frozen/defrosted). That should
take his mind off his tankmates tails... And if I were you, I'd start
saving, planning for your next (reef) tank... where you can move the
more peaceable animals to... as you are mixing a wide range of
behavioral types... and seem ready for the personal evolution. Bob
Fenner>> Crowding Large Marine Puffers, other fishes together
Hello, I've got a question about adding a new fish to my tank one day
this week I am going to be getting a Mappa puffer and I was wondering
how should I put him in my tank with another puffer. My other puffer is
a stars and stripes and he usually don't get along with other puffers. I
think the only reason they don't get along because the last puffer I
tried I just adjusted him and put him in what other way should I go by
doing this? <I hope this is a very large system, relative to the
sizes of these Diodontid puffers... they can be mixed but the bigger the
tank, the better. Please read over the sections on "Acclimation", "Dips,
Baths" posted on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com, and consider placing a
transparent (acrylic panel, sturdy, chemically inert netting...) between
these two puffers for a few days... and being around when you remove it
for the day to watch them> Have you ever seen the mappas do fine with
other puffers because this is only a 125. The other fish is an Asfur
angel and an assasi trigger. I talked to the guy at the marine center
and he said he wouldn't recommend the one they have their now because
it probably wouldn't last with any other fish like that is that
usually true for the mappas? <If these puffers are small (four inches
or less) for now (they get MUCH larger) I give you better than good odds
for now... you will need a much larger system in future> The angel
has been finning my puffer is what it looks like because the angel goes
up next to my puffer then my puffer just takes off swimming is this
stressing out or hurting my puffer? <Probably not helping it...>
What should I do with the angel? <You need a larger system> Do you
think he will be a problem? <Get a BIGGER TANK, or trade your
livestock in for smaller species> What could I do to stop this? What
other fish would you recommend in my tank for now it doesn't matter how
big they will get because I will have a bigger tank with in about a year
and a half? <This is too late... too long. Read over the livestock
selection, survey materials on the WWM site, invest some time in reading
current reference books on marine aquarium keeping, join a marine hobby
club in your area, attend hobby conferences, develop a relationship with
a local "marine" guru who can help guide you, join the hobby listservs
(they're free) on the internet and browse them and their archives
daily... open your mind to the possibilities, probabilities,
potentialities of what you're doing here.... Would you like to live in a
ten by twenty foot "world" with three, four other large animals? Trade
these animals in... or provide them with what they need to live in the
way of space, etc...Bob Fenner> Fish Compatibility Hi
Bob, I recently found your site and have been spending many hours
reading the FAQ's section. Your definitely a first rate source for info.
<Glad we have found each other> I'm setting up a 125 gallon Sea Clear
system II as a fish only tank. It has the optional skimmer installed as
well as 8 24" mixture of actinic, trichromatic and 50/50 tubes (Which it
came with). <The skimmers on these units are puny... I would add
another> I also installed a UV sterilizer for as a extra measure. The
live stock I currently have are 1 blue damsel, 1 yellow tail damsel and
1 Long spined porcupine, and just about 20 pounds live Fiji rock (I plan
to purchase more in a few weeks). Question 1: Will the addition of a
Naso Tang, 3 Yellow Sailfin tangs, 1Emperor Angel, and 1 Percula clown
be a good mix for the livestock I already have? <I would place a
smaller species of Angel... perhaps a Centropyge or Genicanthus species>
Question 2: Will the addition of a Copperband Butterfly eat brown glass
anemone? <Likely yes... but do wait for your new live rock to cure
before trying one of them... not easily adapted to changing conditions>
as well as mix with the other live stock I plan to purchase? <Yes, it
should> Question 3: Will a orchid dotty back do well as a later
addition to the tank as well as eat bristle worms? <Possibly, but
you're getting to a crowded state here with these animals growing...>
Question4: What supplements other than (Kent) Calcium (for the LR)
should I use for this tank? <Possibly an alkalinity booster...>
Any help from you will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Steve-
<You're well on your way. Keep studying... the more you know, the
greater your enjoyment, appreciation and expertise at the interest will
be. Bob Fenner> Re: Fish Compatibility Dear Bob,
Please help me identify the "could be" reason why my porcupine died. I
bought him from a reputable fish shop about five days ago along with
20lbs. cured Fiji LR, I made sure to acclimate him in his plastic bag to
my system water for about 15 - 20 minutes (the pet shop were purchased
is only 10 minutes away)`, then slowly added my tank water to his bag.
He seemed fine. All my water parameters are good with the exception of
high phosphate, which I recently added Hagen "GREEN" phosphate remover
filters (I added tonight after he died). This morning he was fine, he
ate and was swimming around normally. (The past 5 days I have been
feeding him frozen brine and a bit of flake) I was going to start
feeding him frozen krill as well. Tonight around 6pm I noticed he was
breathing sporadically and his spins were a bit erect, just enough to
notice. The porcupine soon started to look like he was "chocking" the he
completely puffed up and then he died. His tank mates, 2 damsels, did
not harass him. Could he have had some sort of parasite that caused
this? I don't understand why he died. Any information you can give will
be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Steve <Very sorry to read of the
loss of your Puffer. From what you relate, it does seem that this
specimen was adapting well to its new home... I don't doubt the
possibility of some sort of internal problem, parasitic or otherwise.
More likely is the consequence of capture, handling from the wild... and
even greater the chance that this specimen ate something in your system
it shouldn't have (like a rock, hermit crab, shell...). You might want
to dissect/have the animal dissected if this will grant you peace of
mind. Otherwise, I would not be dissuaded from trying another in this
system. Bob Fenner, who refers you to the Diodontid puffer FAQs on the
site: www.WetWebMedia.com for much more.> Re: skipped the clown
trigger Is there a non-invertebrate sand-cleaner that would come
survive my Huma trigger and Holocanthus puffer? <A few family choices
here... Look at the Mullids, Goatfishes. Bob Fenner> Live Rock,
Nitrate I am very new to saltwater tanks, and I have a few
questions. <Okay> First off I have a acrylic hexagon tank (about
18 gallons) with one porcupine puffer, about 4.5 inches long, and one
blue damsel. The porcupine puffer is a very messy eater and the damsel
doesn't seem to help much. <Not "its" job> Do you know of any
small scavengers that wouldn't be eaten by the porcupine puffer? <Not
really... in this setting... the size, shape of the tank... are too
limiting... it's too small for the puffer alone in reality> I have
about 1.5 pounds of live rock. I was wondering if it really does remove
nitrate from the water, and if you would recommend getting more live
rock. At what nitrate level do you recommend doing a partial water
change? Thanks, Ariel <More live rock would help, and I would do
regular water changes (likely 20-25% every two weeks, with pre-made
water... Please read over the following parts of our website on water
changes, puffers...:http://wetwebmedia.com/diodontpuffers.htm,
http://wetwebmedia.com/water.htm And live rock, nitrate FAQs...Bob
Fenner> Porcupine Puffers I assume that Bob is out
diving now (I'm so jealous, maybe next time he would pack me in his
suitcase <Do have some pretty good size luggage...> so I can go
too!) so this is for Zo. <Not to pre-empt that bad boy, but am not
outtahere till tomorrow AM...> I good friend of mine has her heart
set on getting a porcupine puffer fish. We have been tank and accessory
searching and she has found a 54 gallon corner tank that she loves. It
has a built in overflow with holes drilled in the bottom of the tank. Is
that an ok shape for a puffer or do they need more side-to-side room?
<Should be okay for a couple of years> I told her that she needs a
heck of a filtration system as puffers are very messy eaters and she has
decided to get some live rock for biological filter (we know that the
puffer will snack on it but she doesn't care much about inverts right
now) and a really good skimmer, maybe an ETSS or such, opinions?
<All good ideas... but the skimmer, I'd save a few dollars and settle on
just a HOB model like a Turboflotor, CPR Bak-Pak or Aqua-C Remora... or
something equivalent> And finally she would like the puffer to have a
tankmate. Maybe a trigger, or an angel? <A tang would be better...
like a Yellow, Zebrasoma flavescens... not a trigger, too mean... and
large... and the Angel would likely hide in this size system (could only
have a Dwarf variety due to volume)> She wants to do this right and I
want her to be successful as I have been with my little 46 gallon.
<I will help you... this is my desire as well> Thanks for any advice
you can give. As always, keep up the good work, Olivia Guthrie
<Please introduce your friend to our site (www.WetWebMedia.com) and have
her contact me if she has questions, concerns. Bob Fenner>
Porcupine Puffer/herbivores I have a year old, 45 gallon marine
tank with a Porcupine Puffer, a tomato clown, a Cheekspot wrasse (I
think) <Does it look like Halichoeres hortulanus pictured here?:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/halichoeres.htm> and about 25 pounds of
live rock. I'm running a Fluval 302 canister filter, a 9 watt UV
sterilizer, red sea hang on protein skimmer, and two power heads for
circulation. I need herbivores! About 2 months ago I lost my yellow
tang to ick :-(. I'm not sure I want another, the one I had was so
aggressive and territorial! I'm planning on going to my LFS this
weekend to get a hippo tang, (this tang is less aggressive and
territorial then the yellow?), but thought I would check with you for
a second herbivore that will go with my current livestock. <For
small algae of most kinds consider a Tang of the genus Ctenochaetus:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ctenocha.htm> Eventually I would like to
get a bubble tip anemone for my tomato clown, and possibly a snowflake
eel. I would like to keep the tank load light, and keep my algae
under as much control as possible. I toss in about 15 hermit crabs
every 3 or 4 months, but they end up as midnight snacks for the puffer,
and the wrasse too probably. <Yes> I have tried to keep turbo
snails and Astrea snails, but for some reason they just keep dying. Is
this common? <Under some circumstances> Is the puffer eating
these too? <Very likely> Any advise you have will be much
appreciated. <Read here re algae eaters for marine systems:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algeatrcontfaqs.htm and consider the
species listed there. If this is mainly a "filamentous algae concern"
get one of the two blenny species listed... Also, peruse the "algae
control" links/sections... there are many ways to curtail pest algae in
captive systems. Bob Fenner> Rebekah Dupre Diodon
holacanthus, appetite for destruction!! Hi Robert, my newest
addition to my tank is "Canth" a 4" Diodon holacanthus. He's terribly
cute, even without his tail. I must report however that his last problem
would be eating!! He's successfully taken out half of the pajama
cardinal fish population(2 fish) in one day, this a mere 24 hours after
eating about 7 goldfish (bad combo I know, I thought they'd be too big
for him). He's also tried so far unsuccessfully to devour everything
else in sight. Rocks, fingers, decent sized yellowtail blue damsels,
tomato clowns, and any unlucky feeder fish who ventures into the system,
no one seems safe. He's a strange, yet endearing little character,
who has been known to puff up (very much unprovoked) at will, and
perform all sorts of aquatic acrobatics. In short, I'm in love, but I
can't stand the thought of devoting the whole tank to this ferocious
little angel- faced demon. What short of some large pelagic marine
mammal will be safe from that ravenous appetite? (Also I'd like him not
to loose any more body parts of his own). Thanks for the insight. -Ben
PS: for your peace of mind, the rest of his peace loving tankmates are
going back to the pet store tomorrow (those who make it through the
night anyway) <Mmm, this does appear to be an extreme case of a
puffer "eating everything, everybody"... sometimes over a period of a
few weeks, such individuals will "slow down" and learn to take just
certain preferred foodstuffs... otherwise, it's the "Bass and
Triggerfish" possibilities for tankmates... fast, smart, otherwise
unpalatable life that can/will not be eaten. Some examples of this more
tough fare can be found under "Bass", "Triggerfish" on the
WetWebMedia.com site. Bob Fenner> Puffer vs. Puffer
Hello Bob, I'd like to thank you for all of your help in the past and
hopefully you can help once again. Just got a dog face puffer and
introduced him into a tank with a Niger trigger, porcupine puffer, Koran
angel and bird wrasse. He's half the size of the porcupine and the
porcupine has been taking advantage of this. He's bitten him numerous
times and the dog face has big round bite marks that look like outlined
circles on his skin. He has places to hide and has been doing just that.
Its only been two days but he's been beaten up pretty badly. He still
makes attempts to come out from hiding but one look at Mr. Porcupine and
back to his hiding place. Do you think that he can survive in this
tank? <Likely not... once this sort of "bullying" is established,
puffers can be merciless, unending in their heckling... A mechanism for
assuring forage between/amongst similar-niche using species. Unless you
have a huge (hundreds of gallons) system, I would separate these two
immediately> If so, is there any medication I can give him to help
him heal from all the bites? <Best to soak the animals food in a
liquid vitamin supplement. Perhaps try one of the popular "tonics" like
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "Melafix". Puffers do have amazing "powers of
regeneration". Bob Fenner> Thanks again, Ben Ventura Fish
Compatibility <Anthony Calfo here in your service> Can you
keep a Burrfish or porcupine fish in a twenty long <tank is too small
for either one of these fish alone... Burrfish are not at all hardy
anyway... please do avoid> with a fire goby, scissor tail goby and a
purple Firefish, <in most parts of the world... the above listed fish
are considered "bait" for Pufferfish. Please consider a good marine
aquarium reference book to help you through the wonderful maze of
questions you have as a beginner. Bob Fenner's Conscientious Marine
aquarist, Dick Mills The Marine Aquarium and Mike Paletta's The new
Marine Aquarium are all good choices to start with> some other like
shrimp and crabs in a reef tank if so what species and any special
requirements? <none of the fish you mentioned above are suitable
beginner fish... I'd recommend you start with more durable fish at first
like clownfish. Anthony>
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