Calcium vs. Alkalinity – 12/11/07
Greetings you wonderful folks,
<<Why...howdy!>>
I apologize if I have overlooked previously discussed similar issues.
<<No worries>>
I couldn't find a match in the postings.
<<Does happen...how can I be of service?>>
I have a 100g reef with several softies and only a handful of fish, crabs, starfish, snails, anemones,
<<Not compatible...>>
and one “acropora” I was told.
<<Okay>>
My question is regarding alkalinity. I have tested the tank water with results of Ca 400 using Hach test kit. My Alkalinity shows 6.5dKH using Salifert kit.
<<Mmm...Alkalinity is low...as I’m sure you are aware>>
For some reason this sounds odd considering 1) most of the postings on your site seem to have issue with the reverse higher alk vs. lower Ca levels;
<<Hmmm...likely just coincidence, or maybe the possibility most hobbyists find it easier to “over-dose” Alkaline boosters. Your case is not an abnormality in the sense that the balance of bio-minerals/Earth-elements can’t be skewed in either direction...they certainly can>>
2) I haven't supplemented Ca for some time now.
<<Your tank probably doesn’t have a high “demand” for such and you are “keeping up” with partial water changes>>
I will now check tap/RO source for Ca levels as per readings on your web site.
<<If you are using RO, I would expect this reading to be low>>
My primary question is first of all, is this real/possible scenario?
<<Certainly... Check a batch of fresh saltwater...is possible your salt-mix is high in Calcium yet low in Alkaline elements, thus creating the imbalance>>
Second, if this is possible (higher Ca w/ lower Alk), is there a way to increase Alk without increasing Ca?
<<Indeed... You can try Seachem’s Reef Builder or Reef Buffer (depending on whether you need/want to impact pH)>>
Is my Ca/Alk level dangerous?
<<Not for the short term, but do try to boost your Alkalinity to about 8-9 dKH for optimal health (while keeping your Ca at/around that 400ppm mark)>>
Thanks for all your wonderful effort and gracious sharing of your wealth of knowledge, many times over. Great, great site.
Wes Jones
Southern CA
<<We’re happy to assist. Eric Russell, Central SC>>

Re: 2 part solution: getting in balance... reading ref. for a more complete understanding  – 10/18/07
Hey thanks a lot for the help. Sorry to bother with more stupid questions. I have Kent tech cb 2 part solution. Solution A is clear and solution B has powder which collects at the bottom. Is solution A the calcium?
<See Kent's website...>
Also, what do I do when I reach my target calcium and alk levels in my main tank. Do I stop adding daily and maybe just once a week? As far as buffering my make-up and water change water do I just keep adding 1 solution (test) then the other solution (test) and keep doing this until I have reached target level. On another note, to clarify, you can add more of one solution than another as desired? Many thanks!
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

My Tanks Calcium and Alkalinity Requirements    9/9/07
My current system has 250 litres of water in the display tank and 100 litres in the sump. I have 10 cm crushed marble 1 – 2 mm sand bed (so this supplies no calcium or alkalinity). I have the following corals
One 8 cm open brain coral
One 8 cm folded brain coral
One 6 cm torch coral
One 12 cm bubble coral
One 10 cm mushroom coral
One 6 cm pineapple coral
One 10 cm frogspawn coral
There very little coralline algae and the tank which is over one year old.
There is one cleaner shrimp, two clown fish, one damsel and one Chromis, none of the fish exceed 5 cm.
I use updated Salifert test kits for all my measurements.
pH 8.3, Calcium 350 and alkalinity 3.5 – 4. Magnesium 1300, NH4 = 0, NO2 = 0 NO3 = 2 ppm
My tank has an open top, and a large area sump, temperature is 27 degrees C. so I have 6 litres of evaporation each day. I add 2 litres three times a day, but slowly (over two minutes) poring this into the tank next to a TUNZE Turbelle 8000 litre/hour pump so water and supplement additions are circulated quickly.
Each morning I add two teaspoon (10 ml.s) of baking soda, and in the evening one teaspoon of CaOH in each two litre container of water (so two teaspoon per day total). I let the water stand for ten minutes, and poor this in and toss out any non dissolved CaOH that settles in the bottom of the jug. This is a saturated solution. The pH before I add the CaOH is 8.3, and 20 – 30 minutes later in may go as high as 8.5 (or less) and this is back to 8.3 about 45 minutes later. This would help in precipitating out PO4. This should add 12 mg/L of calcium per day.
<Okay...>
The web site http://www.advancedaquarist.com has extensive information on this topic even during my transient pH spite there should not be excessive non biologic precipitation of Calcium carbonate (i.e. your substrate turns into concrete)
Non biologic ppt of calcium when
Ca = 410
Alk = 4.2
pH = 8.45
I surface gravel vacuum the substrate about three times a week, and it has not turned into a slab of concrete, though some of what I vacuum up looks like white suspended powder.
Even this level of calcium addition is not enough to meet demand and I have to add liquid calcium Salifert Coral Calcium, about 100 ml.s a week just to maintain my current level of 350. This is more than the container states if used as a sole source of calcium alone. Not adding any calcium at all to my tank causes the calcium level to drop about 10 mg/L per day. The bottle states though that average aquarium depletes 5-8 mg of calcium per liter, each week.
Anthony Calfo has stated that the addition of CaOH using a slurry method (I don’t need to slurry this as I have so much water to replace each day) should meet the demands of most 100 gallon aquariums.
<... am not a fan. Too easy for alkalinity to get out of ratio...>
I was thinking that adding a TUNZE Comline calcium reactor to supplement, my current calcium requirements (I may be able to do away with the baking soda, and use much less Kalkwasser)
<An excellent idea>
I talked to the LFS that has a several hundred gallon tank with a heavy coral load in it, and they don’t seem to be adding the amount of calcium I do. They do not even use a calcium reactor, just supplements.
<Can be done, yes>
Something is very wrong here. All I can think of is that the pH spike may be a lot higher than the test kit is stating, and I am precipitating this out more than I realize. However the colors are easy to read, and it never goes as high as 8.6
<Mmm, doubtful... given the amounts of material you list>
Can you get back to me with your suggestions?
All the Best
Mike Lomb
<Much, actually too much to state here... I would read a bit more: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
and the linked files above, and set upon one course of supplementation... Either the careful use of a two-part commercial system for biomineral (alkaline earths) and alkalinity OR the calcium reactor... Bob Fenner>

Ca/ Alk Questions  7/31/07
Hey guys!
I just started testing a few new parameters in my tanks and got some interesting results... these results span 2 tanks, so I'll keep them separate.
Tank 1:
A smaller tank with only a clam as any sort of carbonate demand. I checked the alkalinity today, and it's 300 KH! I was very surprised, as I thought the clam would have sucked up most of the available carbonate.
<... Mmmm>
I haven't done a water change in about 2 months (ouch) because I had tested the water I was buying to change water with and it had more than detectable levels of nitrate, near 15 ppm.
<... and how much Calcium, Magnesium, alkaline reserve?>
I also checked the PO4 levels in the tank and found them at zero, despite the obscene levels of WONDERFUL grape Caulerpa and hair algae.
<This may be taking up the biomineral (Calcium mostly) and leaving the carbonate, bicarb., behind>
I sent
a pic of this a while ago. I suspect this is because the available PO4 was already fixed in the algae themselves and free PO4 was being taken up?
<Quite likely, yes>
I plan to start algae-picking soon and using phosphate remover to absorb PO4 as it releases from dying algae. Is this a good course of action?
<Mmm, likely regular harvesting of the macro-algae will "do it" here>
Tank 2:
This tank has a pretty low calcium demand, being a small chunk of Favia, some Caulastrea and a Trachyphyllia. However, I tested the calcium and it was 480 ppm! Is this because of the slow-growing nature of the corals, or maybe because something is stunting the growth of the corals (maybe they need more spot feeding?).
<... What re the initial make-up of the system, maintenance, source water?>
There's one question that pertains to both... I've heard rumblings on various reef boards that keeping Ca and Alk high can help other undesirable algaes from reigning over your tank by ,presumably, increasing coralline algae growth. But as it is said, "The plural of anecdote is not data,"
<Interesante>
so I thought I'd bounce that one off you guys.
<Do agree with the idiomatic expression, though not re the general issue of algal predisposition>
Now tank 2 has some hair algae, but it also has a diversity of other algae... many types of Valonia, calcareous greens (in film form), some reds in small quantities, a little Sawblade Caulerpa (Ugg), a veritable slew of Neomeris, some maybe-Tydemania, and a respectable quantity of the venerable coralline, although more on the walls than the rocks...I'd love to get rid of the hair algae, but I guess you can't be completely rid of the stuff!
<Mmm, don't agree>
By contrast, Tank 1 has a very homogenous algal population... grape Caulerpa and prodigious amounts of hair algae---no coralline, as none was on the live rock!
I suspect that the lack of nutrient competition and coralline in Tank 1 has let undesirable algae take root, and quite firmly!
<We concur here>
Every time I try to pull of algae, it gets better, but it always comes back... and seemingly tougher! I plan on letting loose some turbo snails on tank 1 after a thorough picking and add some phosphate remover, coupled with regular water changes with less nitrate-laden water... if such does not avail, I plan on breaking down the tank and starting a mantis species tank with better quality live rock. Is there any other course of action that you can think of here?
<Reading>
Thanks so much for reading my long rant...the questions are liberally sprinkled throughout.
<Here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm
Scroll down... take your time... good notes... Send along data, further questions... BobF>

Need Help - Very High Alkalinity and Very Low Calcium, using WWM  - 7/23/07
Dear Crew,
I have a 90G Reef Tank. I have couple of problems. 6 months ago I had lot of algae problem and I had to take out all of my live rock and rinse with vinegar and dry it SUN for a day (made them as dead rock) and place it back on my tank.
<?... no>
since then I have done several water changes. I had lot of Coralline Algae in by tank which should have been sufficient to spread to my live dead) rock in the last months. But my rocks have not turned purple again yet.
<There are a few factors...>
Only very few places are purple and red even though it has been 6 months since that exercise. All of my tank glass has got coralline algae. But not the rocks.
My dosing chart as below
B-Ionic two part 30ml every day.
10ML Reef Iodide - every other day
For my top-off water I add PH buffer.
Last week I upgraded my lights to T5 lights from VHO.
I had 440W VHO earlier and switched to 312W T5 (6x 52W) Retrofit kit.
My tank parameters are as below.
Phosphate - 0
Nitrate/Nitrite - 0
Ammonia - 0
PH - 7.8
<... low>
Alkalinity - 16.5
<What units? High>
Calcium - 150
<Way too low...>
Two problems
1) VERY High Alkalinity - 16.5
2) Very Low Calcium - 150
Probably low calcium is what preventing the coralline algae growth ?
<Likely at least these>
How to bring down the Alkalinity.
<Read>
Please advise.
<Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm>
Thank you so much for your help.
Regards,
Suresh
<RMF>

Calcium and Alkalinity question for newbie!  – 07/19/07
Hello everyone at WWM.
I'm a newbie-1 year into the marine hobby after many years of freshwater fish. I still have a 180g Clown loach and rainbowfish tank.:)
<nice>
I am fairly new to marine aquaria and am a bit confused and after searching all over your website, I can't seem to find what I am looking for being there is so much info to sift through. I have spent many hrs here. So I have a few questions for you if you have the time. I have picked up A LOT of great help in general looking here as well. Thanks for that!
Here is the history of my tank before I throw out the big question(s). :)
My tank is a 4 1/2 month old 55g (set up as the GARF 's bulletproof system on March 3rd) I have seen a lot of differing opinions regarding their info on setting up a reef, but it has seemed to work out well for me. Nothing has gone wrong and it made this pretty easy in setting up. I began dosing my tank as they suggested, but I began to think that this was "a lot" so I stopped.
Also, I previously had a 12g nano reef for about a year that has been upgraded to this 55g.
My params are:
*Salinity 1.025* -just a bit higher than this
*Ca+* is testing at *580ppm* -WOW! high, I know. This is where one of my questions lies. ;)
*KH* is testing at *110 mg/L (6.14 dKH)* a bit low here. This is the 2nd part of my question. ;)
*PO4 *is between 0 and* 0.25*
*Nitrate* is *20ppm* (I feed my tank very well!) Hoping water changes brings this down soon.
<Yikes. It's good to feed your tank well, but if this doesn't come done soon you'll have to consider less feeding or using more filtration.>
Nitrite 0
*Ammonia 0* I think. It is a test strip and difficult to be sure here.
<Most test strips are inferior testing tools. I encourage you to get a more conventional test kit.>
*Temp 83**
So my tank is a 55g DSB with plenum (Seaflor special Grade Reef Sand -LIVE sand) and GARF grunge.
CPR large hang on refugium with Chaetomorpha growing out of control and lots of good bugs! :)
<cool>
I have about 20 lbs of live rock that came from my nano and another 70 lbs of base rock that is now thriving with life. As well as the live sand that came from my nano. Maybe 25 lbs or so.
My livestock is:
**2 Ocellaris clowns* (one from the nano) and a **Mandarin* that came from here as well. I got VERY lucky with him as he eats Ocean Nutrition formulas 1 and 2 as well as the live bugs. (Info I found out after I bought him, that he may starve to death.)
<If he's eating Ocean Nutrition you are really lucky! Sometimes it's difficult to even get them to eat supplemented live food.>
But he is fat and happy! I research everything now before I buy!
<good>
**2 blue damsels* (tried to catch them, but they are too smart for me. They have actually not bothered anyone else and hope they stay this way)
**3 Chromis*
**3 Chalk Basslets*
and *1 very happy little rock-grazing *Coral Beauty*.
There are various hermits and snails (maybe 25-30 total) and 1 Astrea snail.
I have 2 Maxijet 1200's, a PowerSweep, and a Emperor 400 set up for the carbon filtration.
There is a lot of flow, but still not enough to keep debris from settling on the rocks and behind them as well.
<More flow wouldn't hurt. However, short of putting a fire hose in your tank, nothing will completely prevent debris from collecting anywhere at any time.>
It seems that if I add any more, my fish won't be able to swim.
<Actually, you'd be surprised what reef fish can swim in.>
I was checking into adding 2 of the Hydor Koralia Water Circulation Pumps to my system. Do you have any input regarding these?
<I've never had these specific pumps myself, but Hydor as a brand has never disappointed me.>
and my lighting is the Nova Extreme T-5 Fixtures w/Lunar Lights. They are on day/night timers and my refugium is off set with the lighting and it comes on at night (hence, the overgrowing Chaeto).
For my reef I have a rock of *blue/purple mushrooms*, a rock full of *orange mushrooms*, a few various *striped green mushrooms* and *green Rhodactis mushrooms* from my nano that are all multiplying rather quickly, various *zoanthid/paly frags* ( 11 types ), a small colony of *green star polyps*, a tiny colony of *pink star polyps*, a small colony of *RPE's* "red people eaters" and a *green toadstool mushroom,* about 3-4" when fully expanded and plumped* *up and which is thriving as well. I bought this for my clowns which still haven't hosted in it. They seem to like the heater more. ;)
There is definite coral fragging happening in my future. ( I am patiently waiting for the new release of Anthony Calfo's book of Coral Propagation as I can't find a copy anywhere. Sigh! ) I have another 55 cycling especially for this. ;)
I also have a RODI unit I use for my water. I do not have a skimmer yet, but am thinking about your suggestions of the Aqua C Remora very soon.
<Remoras are awesome. I'd strongly encourage you to get one. This will likely help with your nitrate issues too.>
So, now that you have a history of my set-up, my main question is regarding my Alk and Calcium readings. My Alk is testing a bit low and ca is reading high.
<This is a very common situation. Think of alkalinity and calcium as being on opposite ends of a teeter totter. When one goes up the other goes down and vice versa.>
My calcium began testing high a few weeks ago, so I stopped adding any ca to the tank. I had been adding coral vital/purple up alternating and adding about 2-3x/week in the hopes of coralline growth.
<You don't need these products. I suggest you stop dosing them. If not forever, then at least until you can correct your water chemistry.>
My Ph just recently has stabilized to 8.3-8.5 during the day after adding a
Sea Chem reef buffer and reef builder. It was hanging around the 8.0 mark.
BTW. When is a new tank, not considered "new" and finished stabilizing?
<It depends on who you ask. But generally, reef tanks are considered "new" if they're less than a year old.>
After searching all over your site, I did see some others who had questions about bad test kits. I am thinking that this is a possibility for my calcium test. All I have done over the past 2 weeks or so is water changes (5g weekly) and slowly adjust the pH. So, is there any reason that my Ca level should be testing so high?
<580ppm is a pretty outrageous calcium reading. There *might* be something wrong with your test kit. You should probably try a different brand of test kit (Salifert is good) to get a "second opinion.">
I am confused about why it is high and what I should do to lower this level and raise my alk.
<Assuming your calcium is too high >450ppm, then you can lower this by raising the alk with baking soda or washing soda. Mix up a teaspoon in some RO/DI water and add it to the tank. Do this daily until your alk is where it should be.>
Are calcium and Alk additives supposed to be added to the tank together or can they be added separately?
<When something isn't right, you should add them separately. This gives you more control and better awareness of what you're actually doing/adding.>
In other words, can I adjust the Alk without adding/adjusting Ca?
<Assuming your calcium is >450ppm, then yes... and this is what you should do. However, you should keep measuring your calcium after every teaspoon of baking soda or washing soda you add to make sure you're not causing your calcium to plummet too far.>
I have noticed that my coralline growth has slowed, if not stopped, and it looks as if some is receding and fading away. How could this be if my Ca readings are high?
<Coralline needs more than calcium. If your alkalinity is too low, this might be why the growth as slowed.>
Bad test kit?
<Possibly>
Also, shouldn't my corals be using this Ca for growth? All my softy's are doing very well, and none seem to be lacking anywhere.
<Soft corals need less calcium.>
I have Nutrafin Ca+ test kit that expires in 09), What do you recommend I try next?
<Try Salifert.>
I also recently saw on your pages of valuable info, that make-up water and replacement water is supposed to be aerated, then buffered, then add salt and add to the tank 24 hrs later. (I believe this is what I saw) This is the first I have seen of this. I have been aerating my RODI make-up water for only an hour or so before adding to my tank. (both salt and top-off) I haven't had anyone react badly to this. I am glad I found this out.
Thanks! Could you tell me why this is needed as I didn't see it on your site?
<Different aquarists strive for different levels of prudence. We tell you what is ideal (i.e. what we believe to be the best way to do things). But many aquarist do things their own way. Aerating the water helps with pH and oxygen levels. Circulating the water for 24 hours helps make sure the salt is completely dissolved. Buffering helps keep the water chemistry stable. Will your tank suddenly crash if you don't always do exactly as we tell you to? Mmm... probably not.>
Also, I still am getting diatom algae on my glass (daily glass cleaning) and on the surface of my sand.
<Relax, your tank is still new. Adding a protein skimmer should help a lot.>
I stir the top of the sand a couple times a week as well. I don't want to vacuum the sand as I don't want to suck up any little bugs that my Mandarin eats. Is this enough in keeping the sand clean? I am going to add about 20 Nassarius snails as I only have 2 at the current moment. Is this okay to do?
<20 is way too many! Try adding five.>
Any other suggestions are very welcomed and I am sorry for all this information and I hope I didn't confuse you with my questions.
<No problem, I hope this helps.>
Thanks so much, again.
Jody
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Cal/Alk help – 06/04/07
Hello Crew
<Wayne>
I've read your Cal/Alk pages, and I have to say I'm a little overwhelmed. So much info, and on top of that, chemistry is definitely not one of my strengths. So. I'm trying, and could use your help.
First...my system
210g been running for 6 months now (upgraded from 120 that was running for 1year), 55 gal Sump/Ref, AquaC EV240, Aquamedic Oceanlight T5/MH combo (3x250w, 4x39w T5), 230# of LR
Livestock
9" Volitans Lion
1" Yellowtail Damsel
4" Emperor Angel
5" Harlequin Tusk
4" Sohal Tang
<Do keep your eye on this alpha fish... there may be issues with the Emperor, other fishes going forward>
3 - Colt Corals (Fragged)
2 - Devils Hand Leathers (Fragged)
1 - Large Zoa colony
1 - Open Brain Coral - Had him for 2 weeks. I've been trying to feed finely minced frozen meats. Won't eat, and haven't seen tentacles yet.
<... Please see WWM re...>
Auto Top off with RODI water, and 30 gal water changes/gravel vacuuming are done weekly with RODI water that's buffered with SeaChem's Reef Buffer. I use Instant Ocean Salt mix.
I dose Iron every week to help my Chaeto grow.
<Mmm, don't do this w/o testing for...>
I have not been successful. The Chaeto has not grown for over a year (when I had my 120 also). I've tried new Chaeto, increasing water flow, using different lighting, alternating light cycles... just not growing.
<Something/s amiss here...>
Besides the Chaeto and Open Brain, all is well. Surprisingly, algae in my tank is not all that bad. Maybe it's the weekly water changes?... ok let me get to my point.
<Okay>
I want to add 3-4 more corals Frogspawn or Torch coral, Montipora, and Acropora. After that...I'd like to think I'm done! ;-)
To get ready for these new additions, I'm starting to think about Cal/Alk additives. I just tested my Calcium 340 mg/l.
I used SeaChem's Alk test kit which leads me to my first question. The test kit says that 1 drop = .5 meg/l followed by "The number of drops to get to yellow divided by 2 is the total alkalinity." My test took 6 drops. Is my Meq/l, 3.0?
<This>
or 1.5? The reason I'm questioning this is that I also tested the reference water (which is supposed to read 4 meq/l) that came with the kit. This took 9 drops.
<About right>
Following their instructions that would equal a little over 2 meq/l. If I follow the 1 drop = .5 meq/l method, than the reference sample is closer to what it's supposed to be 4.5 meq/l. Any experience with this test kit?
<I think you're dividing by 2 twice here>
So.. with a Cal reading of 340, and my Alk reading is 3.0, I'm assuming I don't have to add alk/cal supplements now.
<Mmmm>
But should I add now, knowing that over the next few months, I'll be adding more coral? If my Alk reading is 1.5 meq/l, than I think I need to add something. Are my assumptions correct?
<I would be reading, looking about for means of boosting both alkaline reserve AND biomineral concentration here>
If I do have to add, I plan on adding B Ionic 2 part additive. If I start adding B Ionic, Should I stop using the Seachem Reef Buffer for my top-off, and "water change" water?
<Mmm... no, not necessarily... I WOULD buffer the new water ahead of use...>
I read that B Ionic shouldn't be used in mixing tanks. If that's the case, what should I buffer with?
<You could use this product alone (the two parts) w/ or w/o the SeaChem line... or use just the latter's products... but they are miscible>
What other supplements should I add considering my wish list of corals? Iodine, Strontium, Magnesium?
<Mmmm, you should READ re these... I suggest a good book... the Net is hard (well, at least for me) to follow re such expansive topics... better to have ideas, concepts, principles laid out systematically, completely... See Baensch's, Fossa and Nilsen's tomes here>
Is there an "all in one" reef additive that contains everything I need?
<Uh, no>
Or will my weekly water changes be enough to meet the demands of my tank?
<Along with feeding... Could be... only testing, experience can/will tell>
Would increased Cal/Alk aid in my Chaeto growth, and Open Brain issue?
<Likely so>
Thanks for all your help!
Wayne
<A few good books Wayne... Bob Fenner>

Switching from Calcium +3 to Kent two part A and B? Makeup water??  - 02/21/07
Hello my name is Brian and I have a 45 gallon reef tank with a ten gallon refugium.   
<Hi Brian, welcome to AA -- Aquatics Anonymous. *grin* I'm JustinN, glad to help.>
For over two years I have been using Reef Success Calcium+3 in addition to Kent Superbuffer-dKH.  I kept my calcium level at 400ppm.  
<Excellent>
I was scared to hear that by using the calcium+3 for long periods of time I could eventually cause "marine snow."
<This is a bit of a misnomer here... the problem is people who don't dose appropriately, meaning they don't test for what they are dosing, they simply follow the instructions on the product. If you are maintaining things as you say you are, I would not be concerned.>
Is this true even with the addition of the SuperBuffer?  
<All depends on your application, which I believe you have correct.>
In fear I purchased the Kent 2 part calcium, but I don't know how to transition.  What would be the best steps??   
<Personally, I would not change what has obviously been working for a while for you.>
Another problem is that a gallon of water precipitates from my system every 2 days and I need to add it back regularly.  Before I would just add 5 ml of calcium+3 and 5ml of SuperBuffer to a five gallon bucket of fresh water which had a powerhead for water movement.  I would add makeup water from this bucket to my tank and my calcium levels would stay constant 400ppm.  
<Excellent game plan, my friend. I would continue this regimen.>
I am afraid that if I don't add calcium to my makeup water my calcium level would slowly lower.  
<Likely you could manage it without the top-off water step, but why change something that's been keeping stability for you? Stability is THE key here!>
So how do I add the Kent 2 part calcium to makeup water???  Thanks for listening!!    
<If you were to attempt to add the 2 part solution (I assume this is a typical 2 part solution, where one part is a calcium supplement and the other is alkalinity), I would add your dosage of either one or the other to your top-off water, and mix the other in a small amount of fresh water and add to the sump directly. However, I firmly believe you shouldn't change a thing, from the game plan that has been working for you for so long. Hope this helps! -JustinN>

Calcium Precipitation - 2/21/07
<Hey Ray, JustinN with you today.>
Thanks for your response,
<As I'm not the original responder, I cannot take credit, but I'm sure whomever did respond is quite welcome.>
I would, however, like more detail on the snow effect I notice with adding the calcium supplement I use.  What more information do you need?
<Don't think any information is needed from you on this one, pretty self explanatory.>
Your input is greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Ray   
<Well, Ray, the "snow effect" is the precipitation of calcium out of your water. This is occurring because your water chemistry is skewed, out of whack. This problem stems from the misapplication of buffering and calcium supplements. To simplify the concept, water can only retain so much of the calcium solution, and when this amount is exceeded, it causes the calcium to bind and become unusable, creating the snow globe effect you speak of. First as far as solutions go: Stop dosing! Get a reliable alkalinity test, get a reliable calcium test, and have a thorough read through this excellent article: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm and the linked files in blue. Don't skim this article, read it, know it, learn it, live it! Every time that you cause a precipitory event in your tank, you are starting a roller coaster of chemical stability that you no longer have control over! Good luck, my friend. -JustinN>

Alkalinity, calcium and pH  2/18/07
Hi Everyone,
I have a 72 gal FOWLR tank (with a 1" bed of live sand - aragonite) that is almost 4 months old with 2 percula clowns, a six line wrasse, a yellow tang, and a coral beauty angel. I have a regal tang in quarantine almost ready to join the others. The fish are very happy and healthy, but I'm not!
<!>
My problem is that my alkalinity has gotten too high (6.57 meq/l), my pH hovers around 8.0 to 8.15, and my calcium level is 280ppm. I think I know how this happened. In my quest to raise the ph, I added Proper pH 8.2
<Mmm, this product should only be used in freshwater settings>
to excess not realizing that it was cranking up the alkalinity. My question is this:  How do I correct this situation?
<Mmm, best with time going by, regular water changes... and leaving this product out>
My plan is to do 10% water changes daily (or every other day - I routinely do them weekly)
<Good... but I'd stick with the weekly... with pre-mixed/stored water... and 20-25%>
to gradually bring down the alkalinity using RO/DI water (with Instant Ocean salt).  This is where I get a little lost.  What do I do to get pH and calcium levels in order.  My goal is pH = 8.3, calcium = 350-400 ppm, and alkalinity = 3.5 meq/l.  Are these proper values for a FOWLR system?
<Yes>
  I'm trying to increase the coralline algae growth on my live rock.  I need a plan of attack - a recipe for success if you will.  Hope you can help. Thanks in advance. Mike.
<Thank you for writing so clearly, thoroughly... The water changes with the Aquarium Systems salt mix, the stock, substrate you list... should "do it"... in a few months time. Bob Fenner>

Alkali calcium chloride prills 94%    2/16/07
Greeting to all,
<David>
I'm trying to create a two part calcium-alkalinity solution.  Would Alkali Calcium Chloride Prills 94% be adequate for aquarium use?
<Mmm, no>
  It is supposed to be min. 94% pure Calcium Chloride, maybe 5% Alkali Chloride and a 1% max of other impurities.  If this doesn't match up with what
you guys know please advise. Let me know if this product is safe for aquarium use.
Thank you very much in advanced.
Sincerely yours,
David
<Is a relatively "harsh" formulation... meant to be readily soluble... for use in de-icing roads, reducing the alkalinity of cement mixes... Not useful for biological systems. Bob Fenner>

Dosing Question – 2/8/07
<Hi Scotty, Brenda here tonight>
First of all, let me say you guys are the best!!!
<Thank you!>
Now, I searched the forums and got some of my answer to this question, but need you to finish it.
<I’ll try>
I add part 1 and part 2 of the Oceans Blend calcium and alkalinity supplement.  I have added over 48 ml in the last 72 hours, but my test kit is showing no increase in calcium (stays at 350ppm).  My pH has been rising, even though I have added an equal amount of part II (alkalinity).  
<I need actual results of pH>
I do not have an alkalinity test kit yet (will get one soon), so I have no idea to see where that is, and am basing any decision I make on an unknown.
<Yikes!  Please stop!  You will also need a Magnesium test kit.  Mg should be in the 1300 – 1500 ppm range for everything to balance properly.>
So my question is should I continue with both parts until my calcium gets to 400 ppm.
<No>
Should I use one for a few doses without the other as a way to balance out the pH?  Or should I just sit tight and let things get settled?
<Sit tight until you get some more test kits.>
Best idea is to listen to what you guys <or gals> have to say.
<Never dose calcium, alkalinity or magnesium into your tank until you know what your levels are.  Please read for a better understanding:  www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm  
www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/rhf/feature/index.htm
www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/oct2003/chem.htm
www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-03/rhf/index.php#3  
Also, here is a calculator to help you with dosing.  It sure makes my life easier:  http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chemcalc.html >
Scotty, NY
<Good luck Scotty, and be patient!   Brenda>

High alkalinity low PH and low calcium, knowledge from reading  2/1/07
Hey Hey
<KB>
I have a Question about High alkalinity low PH and low calcium. I was adding in a PH buffer
<Product? Make up?>
but when my Alkalinity skyrocketed and PH didn't move I stopped adding it. My Alkalinity 3 days ago was at 6.4, PH at 8.1 and Calcium at 300. I did 30% water change and added calcium
<Just Calcium, as in Ca?>
(which I have been doing for the past 3 weeks.) and the Alkalinity went down to 5.7 but still very high. My brother had an aquarium as well but recently joined the military and asked me to take care of some Zoas for him. Sense I have inherited them they have not opened and I don't want to kill them. I was just wondering 1. If the zoas not opening can be because of the wacky stated of the tank?
<Maybe, or your efforts at changing such. All this needs to be done through water changes (the new water adjusted outside the tank) and gradually>
And 2. How do I go about getting my tank back to normal? It's a 30 gallon tank with 250W metal halide lights I have a 15 gallon sump and a prism protein skimmer. It been up and running for about 3 years with only 3 fish in it. In the last 3-4 months started adding coral.
<I'd stop here... until you know what you're doing>
Any Ideas (keeping in mine I'm a student so I can't go out and buy a calcium reactor or spend crazy amounts of money I love my tank but sadly am pretty damn poor.) Any suggestions would be much-appreciated thanks in advance
Kyle
<You need to read... re what pH, alkalinity are... the effects of adding Ca products. Please start here: http://wetwebmedia.com/watrqualmar.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

High dKH  2/1/07
Hello.  I appreciate the time you folks take in answering all the  questions thrown at you.  I have been spending hours on your website going  through all the data. My question is this:  My alkalinity is at 20 dKH  and my pH is at 8.3.  If I lower my dKH to acceptable levels (8-12 dKH),  will it lower my pH below acceptable levels for a marine aquarium?
<Mmm, possibly... depending on the means utilized to lower, and the percentages of what is involved in rendering the KH what it is...>
  I  believe my pH should still be stable and remain at 8.3 considering my dKH is so  high to begin with.  Is this correct?
R/
Jeff
<Mmm... do you have a notion, input as to the nature of the high, too-high KH? Is this from your "starting", tap water? If so, I would just blend in some less-solute-laden source... like RO, DI, or RODI. Bob Fenner>

Kalkwasser/Calcium Reading 1/22/07
Hello how is everyone doing.
<Hi, so far, so good.>
Pretty crazy here in Ohio with the snow and everything.
<Brrr>
I have a 125 gallon reef tank and I have read just about every article on Kalkwasser mixing and dosing. I am currently using one method which involves a quart of RO water, half teaspoon Kalkwasser and 15 ml of distilled vinegar. However, ever method that I have used I have not seen any satisfaction with. What I mean is when I test the Kalkwasser with my pinpoint calcium monitor( and yes it definitely perfectly calibrated) I get calcium readings of 180 or 200 ppm !!!! I do not know if I am not reading into some hidden water chemistry or I am doing  something wrong. The calcium in my main tank is at 328 ppm right now only do to dosing calcium chloride (aka: liquid calcium) I have a calcium reactor with new media and it is only there to keep dKH levels stable. I cannot keep calcium levels up without using excessive calcium chloride. The tank does not have a   top, and the filtration methods are a wet and dry, Tunze protein skimmer and refugium. Please help Thank you
Water parameters
PH 8.0
Ca 328
DKH 10
Sal 1.25
Amm 0
N 0
Nitrate 0
ReDox 355
Phos 0
<I'd try getting your dKH down to around 8-8.5.  Higher alkalinity readings can cause calcium to precipitate.  Secondly, try mixing the Kalkwasser without the vinegar and see if your readings don't go up.  Vinegar is an acetic acid and may cause erroneous readings on your meter.  You may also want to try reducing the
vinegar to 10ml.  James (Salty Dog)>