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FAQs on Carbon Filtration, Negative Reactions
Related FAQs: Carbon 1,
Carbon 2,
& FAQs on Carbon: Rationale/Use,
Types/Qualities/Selection,
Placement, Renewal,
Sources/Brands, &
Marine
Chemical Filtrants
Related Articles: Marine Chemical Filtrants,
Zeolite
Filters: A Discussion of What Zeolites Are and How They Function by
Jens Kallmeyer, The
ZEOvit System: A New Concept in Reefkeeping by Alexander Girz,
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Are these real? Not much negative in real carbon use... Far outweighed by
benefits |
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Activated Carbon Dust…Will It Hurt My Fish? –
08/19/08
I've done some research through Google trying to figure out the answer to
this question but can’t really seem to find anything.
<<Okay>>
I didn't rinse off my activated carbon when I put it into my QT tanks, so the
water got filled with a light gray cloud.
<<Shouldn’t be a problem>>
It quickly dissipated and the water just had a slight gray coloring to it, which
went away after it slowly settled out. Does that material hurt the fish?
<<Mmm, no…is more unsightly than anything else>>
I'm sure it gets into their gills and they also eat it when they are going for
food plus when they drink...
<<Indeed… But this is no more harmful than fine sand that gets stirred up and
suspended in the water column from time to time>>
I'm a little worried I might have inadvertently caused my fish problems.
<<No need to worry…the fish have experienced/can handle quite turbid
conditions>>
They aren't displaying any signs of problems, but I'm just curious because in
the future I'll be a lot more careful about that if it’s a bad thing to do to
them.
<<All the same I would wash/rinse the carbon before use…if only to flush away
some of the residual Phosphate left from the acid washing (activation) process>>
The fish in question are two Semilarvatus B/F on one tank, then a Purple tang
and a Checkerboard wrasse in the other.
Grant
<<Some beautiful fishes…setting up a Red Sea biotope maybe? Regards, EricR>>
Re:
Activated Carbon Dust...Will It Hurt My Fish?, HLLE - 08/19/08
It's interesting, the only bad things I've read about carbon dust
and problems are that some people attribute it to HLLE.
<<Interesting…have never heard this myself. I wonder what the
logic/reasoning is. HLLE has been mostly attributed to “extended”
environmental and nutritional deficiencies in my experience…and
generally reversible with correction re>>
Sure enough, I had the "dust storm" 2 or 3 days ago and my Purple tang
is now showing signs of HLLE.
<<I’m highly skeptical this one-time exposure to carbon dust is
responsible…if this is even indeed HLLE. It is unusual such would show
up so soon after capture…and doubtful just “2 or 3 days” after exposure
to carbon dust>>
I look at him easily 5 times a day for at least a couple minutes at a
time, whether feeding or just watching to make sure he is healthy.
<<A good thing>>
I saw NO HLLE last night, now today at lunch his left eye has a ring
around it that looks exactly like HLLE.
<<Mmm…perhaps you could provide a picture?>>
It isn't huge like covering his face or anything, but definitely HLLE
and definitely there.
<<Maybe so…but again, unlikely as a result of the carbon dust in my
estimation. Perhaps this fish has been kept in poor conditions/fed
poorly for an extended period before you obtained it. Or perhaps what
you are seeing is a different viral complaint brought in with the fish>>
I've never actually had HLLE develop in a fish, I thought it would take
longer to show up.
<<Indeed>>
Anyway, this fish is pretty much done with quarantine anyway, I think
I'll be putting him into the main display tank tonight, better water
quality for sure and there is live rock and other stuff to graze on.
<<Perhaps for the best…agreed>>
Yes, I am setting up a Red Sea biotope, EXCEPT I've got an Achilles tang
going in ;)
<<An exquisite fish…but not easily kept/cared for. This fish requires a
large and mature system with high oxygen levels and heavy water
movement>>
Otherwise all fish are Red Sea varieties :)
Grant
<<Cheers, EricR>>
R2: Activated
Carbon Dust...Will It Hurt My Fish? (and a bit of grumbling re speed of query
responses) - 08/21/08
I agree, it seems VERY coincidental though that 2 or 3 days after my dust
cloud, my tang is exhibiting signs of HLLE.
<<Is likely just that>>
And yes, you would certainly think it would take longer than 2 or 3 days for
water quality to affect the fish.
<<At least to manifest in this way, yes>>
This was a Diver's Den fish from Live Aquaria, so I don't know if I would blame
it on bad water quality before I purchased the fish, although I suppose in the
shipping process, either to them or to me, the water could have been bad and
started the issue which is just now showing itself.
<<Not in my opinion... The HLLE would not manifest from an “incidental”
encounter such as you describe. Something else is at play here>>
Unfortunately, since I just put him into my 210, the chances of getting a good
picture of it aren't very good.
<<No worries… And likely a moot point now with this move and continued god
nutrition…if this is HLLE>>
Once he gets used to that tank and what not, I'll try to snap one, but hopefully
it just goes away.
Basically, it just looks like light colored skin circling his left eye. I've
seen tons and tons of pictures of HLLE, I'm pretty confident in my diagnosis,
but I suppose I could be wrong.
<<Hard to say…but “you” are in the best position to tell>>
I typically get an answer from "the crew" of WWM within a day of asking a
question.
<<Yes…Bob encourages all to respond within 24hrs>>
Yesterday morning I sent one in and I used the word urgent in the title and have
yet to receive a reply.
<<Hmm, based on the time-stamp of this query it has still only been “a day”…and
I see Bob has replied to you (twice!) since you sent this in>>
Irony at its best :)
<<…?>>
I have some not very important question about dust and I get a nice quick reply
back.
<<Hmmm…then perhaps you should have stated this was “not important” so we could
have ignored it entirely. Seriously mate, we must assume “all” queries are
important to those sending them in. Else…why are we here?>>
I have an urgent question regarding Achilles tangs and I get nothing ;) Oh well.
<<A matter of timing… Your “urgent” query was not in the inbox when I picked up
your, unbeknownst to me at the time, unimportant carbon-dust question. The inbox
is not monitored continuously, but is visited periodically by an all-volunteer
staff who then pick and choose queries to respond to based on their comfort
level/areas of expertise. All are encouraged to attend to
urgent/serious/emergency/ et al queries when possible, and many will grab an
“urgent” query and make a stab at it even if not their best subject…if only to
direct the querior to pertinent data re on the site. But many times a query is
left to be hopefully picked up by someone with a better “take” on the issue>>
Hopefully I can ask you my question, but I'll make it a lot simpler than my
actual email I sent in about it.
<<Okay>>
My tank has only been running for about 2 months.
<<Quite new/young then>>
It has 180 pounds of live rock in the display and a 55 gallon sump. I used live
rock and Red Gracilaria in the sump to combat nitrate buildup, plus I have an
EV-240 skimmer.
<<Nice skimmer>>
My sump is on an opposite lighting schedule as the main tank. All parameters
seem stable. However, everything I've read about the Achilles tang says I need a
mature tank in order to house one...
<<A mature/established/balanced environment is best, yes>>
What exactly is it about a mature tank that is important to an Achilles?
<<A “mature” tank is important to “all” fishes in my opinion, but can be
especially important to the success of sensitive species like the Achilles Tang.
I always encourage hobbyists to allow their systems to run fallow for six months
or more to allow the establishment of sustainable populations of micro- and
macro-organisms without the complications to water chemistry brought on by a
piscine presence, along with the pressures of fish predation/browsing. Doing so
increases the systems bio-diversity which attributes greatly to the overall
“balance” of the system over the long term>>
I can’t see my water quality as getting much better over time, I do weekly 10%
water changes plus I'm basically under stocked and over skimmed for my bioload.
<<Stocking density and filtering capacity are governed by species selection as
much as species numbers. Based on your fish selections thus far and their
environmental requirements and size potential at maturity…I don’t consider you
particularly under stocked (maybe a few Anthiines/Cardinal fishes for some size
diversity) and I certainly don’t consider you over-skimmed>>
Is there some sort of chemical process going on in the tank that doesn't
complete for 6 months?
<<There are a myriad of process going on in a new system (chemical and
biological). Just the difference in the appearance of emergent life from your
live rock in a system left fishless for six months versus one not, would likely
amaze you. Many hobbyists would also tend to experience less of the see-saw
effect of water chemistry if their systems were allowed to “mature” before
stocking>>
A year?
<<Even better>>
For what it's worth, I'm planning on quarantining the tang for at least 6 weeks,
if not 8. So by then, the tank will have been up and stable for 4 months. I was
actually debating not quarantining the tang, but instead just doing a FW dip of
about 5 minutes with a Methylene blue and formalin addition to the dip, which is
my standard FW dip I do when I get in new fish.
<<If this fish comes to you in poor condition, this may be best>>
I've heard the Achilles is very active and I'm just not too sure how long it
will stay "happy" in a 29g quarantine tank.
<<Mmm, yes…I would only keep it here for a few weeks for close scrutiny…and then
only if in good shape…else dip and place in the display as you have described>>
Seems like almost 2 months in QT for a very active fish wouldn't be a good
thing.
<<Not for this fish in this size QT system…agreed>>
This fish is a Diver's Den specimen from Live Aquaria and in the past I have
never gotten any sort of disease (that I know of) from them, so I was thinking
it might just be better to dip and introduce to the display.
<<Maybe…as discussed>>
What are your thoughts on that?
<<You have them…>>
I know how much QT is stressed on your guys’ site and I do agree with it 99% of
the time, I just think there are special cases where QT might not be worth the
stress to the fish, and this might be one of them?
<<I am in much agreement with you here. I’ll even go so far as to say some
species are better off without QT (e.g. – Halichoeres spp.), in my opinion>>
Thanks for all you do!
Grant
<<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>
R3: Activated
Carbon Dust...Will It Hurt My Fish (and a bit of grumbling re speed of query
responses) - 08/21/08
I am sorry that it came across as I was grumbling about the speed of the
reply, that certainly wasn't my intent.
<<No worries Grant, the limitations of this medium indeed makes one’s attitude
difficult to convey…and that works both ways>>
I was saying it was funny that usually I get fast replies and the one time I
said URGENT I didn't get one.
<<I see…and I hope I was able to provide some measure of explanation as to how
that occurs>>
And yes, about 15 minutes after I sent that, Bob responded to my urgent email.
Anyway, I really wasn't complaining about your guys’ service, you do a lot for
me, I was just stating it was funny the way it worked out.
<<Understood>>
As far as my statement about under stocked and over skimmed goes, you're
correct, at maturity my tank will be nicely stocked and skimmed, which is how I
planned it. However I was referring to right now, when I have about 7 inches of
fish in a 210 gallon tank with a skimmer that can handle a much higher bioload.
<<Yet still for the best… I think many times fishes are “damaged” from just
“growing up” in an inadequately supported and/or too small environment. I feel
this is most prevalent with tang species in the hobby, but certainly not limited
to them>>
Anyhoo, it's kind of a moot point.
<<Oh?>>
The fish arrived in a bag that literally reeked of ammonia.
<<Mmm…was the shipment delayed or lost? It sounds like the fish was in the bag
for much too long…and/or maybe in a bag much too small>>
It smelled like something died in there. The tang was barely moving, so I did a
quick acclimation process of about 10-15 minutes instead of the usual hour, and
I skipped the FW dip I was planning because I didn't want to stress an already
very stressed fish.
<<This fish should have been introduced to the display immediately in this
situation. And depending on your acclimation process (i.e. – mixing water), in
this particular instance this may well have been the straw that broke the
camel’s back. Do see Bob’s article re here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm >>
I basically only saw him breathe a couple times throughout the whole process, he
appeared dead when I put him into the QT and I watched him for 20 minutes, I
only saw his gills move once or twice and his mouth kind of twitched once. He
didn't really even attempt to swim, just kind of feebly moved his tail for a few
minutes without much balance control and just ended up settled on the bottom.
Poor fish, it was beautiful too, I always hate to lose fish but especially the
larger, more intelligent and good looking ones.
<<Sounds like it never had a chance…I’m sorry to realize your loss>>
Anyway, again, I want to make clear I appreciate your guys’ service and
definitely don't want to be viewed as grumbling, in my mind when I wrote that
email I was in no way complaining about your service, I was just stating
something I found amusing, no harm no foul.
<<Fair enough mate>>
Grant
<<Regards, EricR>>
|
Black Diamond Activated Carbon and Phosphates
- 06/08/2007
Dear Crew,
<Andy>
I have been battling Cyanobacteria for a few months in my 110g reef tank that
has been running a little over a year. I have read and tried everything to
eliminate the BGA, but to no avail. I siphon off all the BGA from my rocks each
week when I do my water changes, but it grows back full force by the next week's
water change. I have limited my photoperiod, I have been very careful about
feeding, I upgraded my skimmer to an AquaC EV-180, I employ a 30g fuge with
Chaeto, I run a PhosBan reactor with media, I removed my bio-balls, I use RO/DI
water for all my water changes/top-offs . . . you get the picture. The one
variable that I have not eliminated is the use of activated carbon.
<Mmmm, the Chaetomorpha and Phosban material should remove all soluble
phosphate>
In fact, I believe I can trace the start of my problem to a switch from ESV
activated carbon to Black Diamond activated carbon.
<Both are fine products in my experience>
It seems that since I made that switch, the BGA went from being here and there
to being everywhere. I switched because I was thinking the ESV was leaching
phosphates and causing the small amount of BGA I had, but this switch seems to
have only made matters worse. I've read Steven Pro's article on phosphates in
activated carbon, and see that Black Diamond leached 1 ppm of phosphates in the
sample, and I'm thinking this must be my problem. My water parameters check out
fine--0 ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, silicates and phosphates; pH is a steady
8.3; alk is a steady 3.5 meq/L; specific gravity is 1.026; temp is 78-80.
So, today I replaced all my carbon with Purigen and am hoping that this solves
my mystery. Has anyone had similar experiences with Black Diamond (or other
carbons) and do you think the switch to Purigen was a good one? The guy at the
LFS convinced me to try it over Chemi-Pure, as you can regenerate Purigen and it
was about the same price.
Thanks for your help!
Andy
<The API product has been known to pose excess HPO4 issues, but again, as
stated, this should not be a problem here. In fact, I propose removing the
contactor (Phosban) as your real issue may well be a lack of this essential
nutrient... that is fueling the BGA, which can exist at much lower levels than
is healthy for true algae/thallophytes and other purposeful photosynthetic
livestock (e.g. "corals"). Put in another ways SOME phosphate is absolutely
essential... the Cyano may well be being favored by its exclusion here. Bob
Fenner>
Chemi-Pure Sucks... I
Think????? – 04/01/08
I Recently put a bag of Chemi-Pure in my 46 gal bowfront tank thinking it
was gonna help.
<<Help what?>>
Not 24 hours later mushroom corals melting and flame angel is short on breath.
<<…?>>
Pretty sure he’s gonna die. Fungia is no longer extending tentacles and my
seahare doesn't look like it’s doing to good either. I guess the real question
is.. by me changing out regular carbon and adding Chemi-Pure, the amount
suggested by the bottle, I was wondering if the addition of too much carbon or
whatever Chemi-Pure has is what made this happen??????????
<<Not typically, no…especially if you followed the manufacturer’s instructions.
If indeed the Chemi-Pure is at fault here, it’s hard to say what may have caused
this reaction as you have provided no information re water chemistry/tank
conditions, before and after applying the Chemi-Pure. This is a good and well
thought of product, but do remove it and see if things improve. I suppose
there’s always the possibility of some type of contamination…though I suspect
there are other factors at play here. Regards, EricR>> <More likely
the Seahare itself is the cause of issues here. RMF>
Chemi-Pure Overuse... lack of
reading re chemical filtrants, Crypt... 3/6/08
Hello All,
<Jackie>
I am wondering if my tank may have suffered from carbon shock. About 3 weeks ago
I added Chemi-pure to my sump.
<Mmm, even this high-quality product gets "used up" fairly quickly... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/chemFiltrMar.htm
and the linked files above>
I have a 90 gallon reef tank that has been up and running for a little over a
year. About a week after adding the Chemi-pure I noticed that my Kole Eye Tang
was looking a little pale. A few days later he looked as though he may have
developed ich (I think I noticed about 5 or so white dots). I decided to keep an
eye on him for a couple of days (in the mean time I setup my QT tank). Roughly
two days later my Yellow Tang had a few white dots (which I'll assume was ich).
I was able to catch the Kole Eye Tang and move him to my QT tank treated with
Cupramine (spelling)<Corrected>. The QT tank
salinity, temp, and PH matched the main tank. I was not able to catch the Yellow
Tang.
<... if there is a protozoan infestation, all fishes need to be captured,
moved... Draining the tank/system if necessary, most practical>
The next day Kole was upside down pressed against the filter. At this point I'm
very leery of adding other fish to the QT tank (I'm sure you think I'm crazy).
<... is not a QT, but a treatment tank...>
It's been a few days and Yellow no longer has the white dots.
<Cycling... will be back... see WWM re Cryptocaryon life-cycle... treatment
possibilities>
However, she is very pale about the face.
Back to the Chemi-pure. The product I purchased supports a 200 gal tank. I was
not aware when I purchased it that you can't split it up.
So, I called Boyd Chemi-pure and explained my dilemma. He said that I could
still use the 200 units in my 90 gal without adversely effecting the tank
inhabitants.
<I concur>
I'm now wondering if he gave me sound advise.
<Advice>
Is it a coincidence that my fish started to stress out shortly after adding the
Chemi-pure?
<Likely so, yes>
If not, should I remove the Chemi-pure? Not sure if removing it will also cause
additional stress. Can too much carbon adversely affect my corals and inverts?
<Mmm, can... read where you were referred to... but not likely in otherwise
well-set-up and maintained systems>
They seem to be doing fine at this point.
Thanks,
Jackie
<Read... then act, but soon. Bob Fenner>
- Carbon removing trace elements... -
I have heard that if you use activated carbon in a filter, that it will
remove trace elements. True or false??
<True and false, it removes some trace elements, most notably iodine, but
leaves plenty as well.>
I use a Eheim Professional 2 canister filter, which uses a charcoal filter pad
in it. Would this be removing the trace elements I'm adding twice a
week??
<Depends on what you're adding. I would only run carbon once a month for 3-4
days or when you notice any tinge of yellow in the water (best seen in a clean
white bucket). Have fun! -Kevin>
Pat
Auburn, NY
Carbon Causing HLLE?
Hi Crew, thanks for taking my question.
<Sure! Scott F. with you today!>
First let me give you a brief history of my situation.
I have a hippo tang that developed hole in head disease early on. It is stable
(some scaring around the head) and has been there for about a year and a half or
so. Anyway, he developed ich a little while back, I believe it was from a
wrasse that I added without quarantine.
<A lesson learned, huh?>
I put all my fish, 1 tang, 2 clowns and the wrasse in a 35 gallon plastic
container (quarantine) for 8 weeks while I let the tank run fishless to get rid
of the parasites. I decided to use the "siphoning bottom of tank
everyday" method to cure (no copper) and it worked great.
<Well done! Glad to hear that!>
Now to the point. During the eight weeks in quarantine, my hippo tang showed
tremendous improvement regarding the HLLE, the scarring around his head was
reduced by at least 50%. Problem is, I put him back in the display tank and all
the progress has reversed and the scaring went back to the way it was. There is
no way the water quality in the quarantine tank was better than the display. I
was using tap water, a power head, a heater and a sponge filter. The display
tank gets RO + DI water, 20% bi weekly water changes, live rock, live
sand, better diet, steady temp, etc. So I figured it was the lack of carbon use
that helped reverse HLLE. I did not use Carbon at all in the quarantine and run
it constantly in my display tank. So I want to experiment and stop using Carbon
in my display tank.
<Well, that could be one possibility...I'm quite skeptical, because use of
carbon far outweighs any possible ill effects that could happen, IMO. Yes, some
people claim that carbon depletes trace elements, but if you are conducting
regular water changes, this argument doesn't hold up, IMO. Anecdotally, you
could proceed under the hypothesis that carbon contributed to the HLLE
condition, but I don't know how it will work out. An interesting experiment,
however. I commend you for trying! Do consider other possibilities, such as
"stray voltage" in the display tank, or other possible environmental
factors, too...Test for all of the basic parameters, and then some!>
Will this effect my Coral in anyway? I have a Bubble, Torch, Candy Cane, Various
Polyps and Xenia.
<Well, activated carbon helps remove all sorts of allelopathic compounds that
are released by corals on a regular basis. You might see some differences in the
health of these animals if you discontinue its use in this tank.>
Should I increase my water changes, or is it not necessary?
<I'd consider more frequent water changes to help compensate>
Will the protein skimmer pick up the slack? I use a Aqua-C Remora.
<Aggressive protein skimming will definitely help, too.>
Thanks for you input. Ang.
<My pleasure, Ang. Do test your theory, but also look at other possible
factors along the way...I'm sure that you'll have some interesting results to
report! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Carbon Fallout!
Hey folks, how's the Q and A treating you?
<Excellent! Scott F. here today!>
I finally have my tank up and running after months of planning and reading the
best site on the net. You run the best show out there, and I cannot tell enough
people about it.
<Awesome! We're really glad to hear that!>
I had a situation arise and I wanted to know if you could help keep me? I had a
carbon container come apart in my sump. I woke up to black water, and volcanic
ash all over my sand bed and the rock.
<Yuck!>
I have hooked up my Magnum to filter out the dust, but its going really slow, in
fact, I haven't seen any improvement in 8 hours of running it. My protein
skimmer (which I know I should dig a big hole in my yard and bury it in and
unmarked grave), the Red Sea Berlin Turbo, has been useless. I could use some
advice as to what, if any, other things I should be doing to get rid of this
catastrophe.
<I'd consider some good old fashioned water changes, with careful siphoning
of the rocks and substrate. A series of small water changes, in conjunction with
fine mechanical filtration, can really help do the trick!>
My other question is: I purchased a new Mag Drive, 2400gph pump to supply the
closed loop I built for the top rim of the tank for circulation. I put the pump
below the tank in the cabinet and plumbed it from there back up to the tank. I
reduced the 1" inlets and outlets to 1/2 inch to avoid the bulky 1"
around the rim of the tank. I plugged it in today to test it out, and I am
getting a dribble out of the 6 outlets I put into the closed loop. Where did I
go wrong?
<Hmm...Sounds like you are putting a lot of back pressure on the pump with
the reduced tubing. Perhaps that, combined with the outlets, is creating a
problem here. It may take some tweaking on your part, unfortunately. I can't
really give you much more advice, other than to try going for the once inch
diameter tubing and, perhaps, less outlets...Sigh>
Looking forward to hearing from you, its finally getting above 50 here in
Wisconsin, and I need to get outside before it snows here again. Its only April,
we could get a blizzard warning any time.
Quinn.
<Wow! I think it would be cool (no pun intended) to have a blizzard once in a
while, but I imagine that it gets old real fast! Hope that the spring and summer
are awesome for you! Regards, Scott F>
Carbon Problems
Hi, I have been keeping salt water fish for over a year now, and I was trying to move into keeping a reef. I bought a 65 gallon hex tank, to keep the tank for show, in it there is 60 lbs of live rock, 15 lbs live sand, 20 blue leg hermit crabs, 2 juvenile maroon
clowns (one 3 inches the other less than an inch, they get along really well), and a host anemone. I have been running a canister filter, rated for 150 gallons, using activated carbon and filter pad and ceramic rings. Also in the tank I have a
Prizm skimmer and maxi jet 900 power head for circulation. I have tried purchasing Xenia corals but they have all died out slowly over the course of a week or two. My LFS told me that I could not run carbon with the Xenia, I wanted to know if this was true, and was this true of all soft corals?
<I've been using Chemi-Pure for years and have no problems with keeping corals. I do feed DT's phytoplankton and
Cyclop-Eeze weekly.>
I have already stopped using the activated carbon and ceramic rings and the tank conditions have declined, they told me to stop running it at least 30 days before getting the xenia, and the xenia will filter the tank like the carbon did.
<Corals produce most of their food providing ideal lighting conditions exist. Supplemental feedings as I do, benefit the animals. We are trying to duplicate nature here.>
That doesn't sound right, nothing I read indicated that, but I wanted to ask to make sure. Thanks for your help, I love the website, it is like my bible, I must have spent 40+ hours reading it over the last few weeks since I found it.
<Keep enjoying. Reading is fundamental in this hobby. James (Salty Dog)>
Carbon use 8/2/05
Hey crew.<<Hello - Ted here>> I have a 33 gal. Long, at least 25 lbs. Live rock
30 lbs. Live sand. A Fluval 404,marineland bio-wheel 400 and a red sea Prizm
protein skimmer. Should I use carbon <<Yes>> I understand that carbon can
produce high phosphate levels my water parameters r great would like to keep it
like it is. <<Low quality carbon can leach phosphates. High quality carbon
typically does not. Some better brands are Black Diamond, Seachem Matrix Carbon
and Rowa Carbon. Read here for more information on carbon (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chemFiltrMar.htm).>>
Thanks in advance.
Gary
<<You're welcome. Cheers - Ted>>
Loss of vitamins, SW - 09/14/06
Hi WWM crew,
I have a question for you regarding activated carbon. Should I
remove it when I dose multi-vitamins into the tank? If no, won't the
activated carbon absorb the vitamins? Thanks in advance.
Regards.
<Mmm... some... but if the carbon is more than an hour or two old...
exceedingly little... More likely to be skimmed... Bob Fenner>
Using Carbon and Medication Simultaneously...Mmmm - 6/1/07
Hi,
<Hello.>
you guys and your page been a lot of help,
<Thanks.>
but I can't find any info on using these two carbon and kick ick at same
time.
<You shouldn't use activated carbon and any type of medication at the same
time, the carbon will remove/absorb the medication. Furthermore I suggest
researching the kick ich a little deeper, let's just say it's not something
I would use, and I certainly hope this is being done in a QT tank and not
your display. Also please google Steven Pros articles re: ich, they were
originally published on reef-keeping magazine I believe.>
I been told the carbon sucks the O2 out the water is this true?
<Read here; http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chemFiltrMar.htm .>
thank you for your help
<Anytime, Adam J.>
Algae growth (removal of desirable materials by carbon use)
Bob, I was told that the use of carbon would remove the chemicals I put into
the tank.
<Some chemicals>
I was using liquid calcium and pro dKH to grow the purple/pink algae.
<These are not removed by carbon use... a note though: both biominerals and
alkalinity are required for coralline growth, health>
Now I am almost out of the chemicals and still no results. Should I remove the
carbon or not or should I have gotten better chemicals?
Thanks, David Garcia
<"Better" chemicals? Let's move this discussion back a bit... to
talking about your system (what's in it, how it is/was set-up, maintained)...
and what sorts of tests you do, what led you to use such. Bob Fenner>
Carbon, trace elements
Mr. (?Dr.) Fenner,
<Just call me Bob, please, no doctorate.>
My questions concern the use of activated carbon and potential trace element
depletion. From your previous discussions, I gather that the pros of high
quality carbon outweigh the potential/theoretical cons.
<Yes. In almost all settings, circumstances... the types, amounts of
materials removed of more use than retained>
I am currently
addressing a case of HLLE with vitamin (Vita-Chem, Zoecon) and Iodine (Kent
Marine) supplementation of food, but I have removed Chemi-pure because of
concerns regarding additional trace element depletion. Unfortunately,
despite active biological filtration and protein skimming, the water clarity
has decreased.
<Yes... do agree with your approach, concerns, and understand the inputs,
consequences you are observing>
1) As long as vitamin/iodine supplementation of food and regular water
changes (20% every two weeks) are continued, do you envision a problem with
re-adding "fresh" Chemi-pure?
<No>
2) How frequently do you recommend supplementing with Vita-Chem, Zoecon, and
Iodine (i.e., do you rotate these additives)?
<About once a week with all as a general use, and no to rotation... they are
miscible/mixable>
(Note: My current lighting for this fish only system would not sustain live
rock or growth of Caulerpa algae as you have recommended for HLLE.)
<Hmm, perhaps a separate sump/refugium that can/could be linked/attached to
the main system?>
Thanks for your input.
<You are welcome my astute friend. Bob Fenner>
Dana Ascherman
Re: carbon, trace elements
Bob,
Thanks for the prompt response--I'm impressed! Just to clarify regarding my
2nd question: you suggest combining each of these supplements with the food
concurrently, but only once per week (?even though instructions for
Vita-Chem suggest 5 times per week).
<Yes... and not to be confusing... even "spilling" some into the
tanks water directly>
I assume that adding vitamins/iodine
to the water confers little additional benefit if the fish are eating
supplemented food. Sorry to pester you.
<Not necessarily... as they do drink it... but other living mechanisms in the
system also directly/indirectly benefit, in turn benefit the system, other
life... and never a bother>
Dana Ascherman
<Bob Fenner>
Supplements
I have an Marineland eclipse running on a soon to be reef. Should I remove the
carbon? I have been hearing testimonials about removing the carbon filter.
Thanks
>
I endorse the periodic use of activated carbon in most types of marine systems.
It gets "used up" very quickly (minutes to hours) of being added, so I
would just change it out about once a month.
Bob Fenner
Carbon use
bob I was told not to use carbon in my filtration. Reason given is that it will remove trace elements, but trace elements can be replaced .should I
use carbon?
if the answer is yes why ? thanks Rick.
>
This myth was/is dismissed by Tim Hovanec in the most recent issue of Aquarium
Fish Magazine... no to carbon removing anything of real danger... I would use it
about once a month... to remove dissolved organics... color from the water...
that can't be taken out practically in other ways.
Bob Fenner
Carbon/algae
Bob,
I have a new reef tank that is 4 wks. old. 20 gal sump with w/d filter, Berlin
turbo protein skimmer, 100 or so lbs. LR, 25 watt UV ster. and lighting is CSL
4x55 watt PC's(2 blues, 2 white). Livestock consists of 1 yellow tang, 1 blue
damsel, 3 polyps, 2 mushroom, 3 small leathers and a scavenger
"kit"(20 snails 20 ea. hermit crabs, 5 peppermint shrimp, 4 emerald
etc.) Yesterday I added a 10 oz. bag of Chemi-pure. At the same time I cleaned
p/s collection cup. Now p/s is no longer skimming. Is this because of carbon or
do you think it needs further investigation.
<The carbon, resin mix... the Chemi-Pure>
It seems to be producing more bubbles than before but nothing is rising into the
collection cup.
Algae. I had been pretty easily keeping up with the brown algae removal
(scraping it off the glass, stirring up the sand), but now some of it is getting
a little "cottony" on certain pieces of LR. It seems to be growing IMO
where the water flow is the lowest.
<Good observation>
My sump pump is 810 gph. I fear it may be hair algae and don't know if I should
be patient with it and let it run it's course or should be trying to remove it
some other way.
<Don't sweat the hair algae... supplanting the brown... all part of
"nature's way">
I' ve thought about buying a powerhead and aiming it opposite from current
outflow tube and toward where growth is. Not sure how strong I would need and if
it would do anything, water flow now seems pretty strong.
<More is better>
I've considered keeping the lights off for a day or two but don't know if I
should with new inverts in new tank. Also I tested amm, nitrite, nitrate all
undetectable?
<Don't change the light cycle. No worries>
I have not done a water change as of yet because I have not been able to detect
any nitrates. I do have a 32 gal. can filled with 4 day old seawater I keep
circulating with an old powerhead and heater.
<Good protocol>
Thanks again for your help/advice. - Kevin
<Instruct others on your success. Bob Fenner>
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