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FAQs on Carbon Filtration, Negative Reactions
Related FAQs: Carbon 1,
Carbon 2, & FAQs on
Carbon: Rationale/Use,
Types/Qualities/Selection, Placement,
Renewal, Sources/Brands, &
Marine Chemical Filtrants Related
Articles: Marine Chemical Filtrants,
Zeolite Filters: A Discussion of What Zeolites Are and How They
Function by Jens Kallmeyer,
The ZEOvit System: A New Concept in Reefkeeping by Alexander
Girz, |
Are these real? Not much negative in real carbon use... Far
outweighed by benefits; though some "brands", varieties do have
contaminants |
Hair Algae and it's "Nemesis"?!? 8/24/09
Greetings to my favorite people at WWM!
<Hello to you Jamie>
Interesting observation that I like to share with you. I currently have
three tanks. Their parameters are all very similar as I use the same RO
water mixed with Coralife Reef Salt and I perform a 15% water change on
them every week. There are only TWO differences (Okay, I'm painting with
really broad strokes!) - they are the inhabitants and the presence or
not of CARBON in the filtration system.
<Mmm... often there are other more subtle diff.s, but let's see...>
Tank 1: Carbon; Green Spotted Mandarin Goby, Barnacle Blenny, Eyelash
Blenny, Yasha Hase Goby, Pistol Shrimp, Peppermint Shrimp, Skunk Cleaner
Shrimp plus Hermit Crabs.
Tank 2: NO Carbon; Flame Angel, Bicolor Blenny, Black Percula Clown plus
Hermit Crabs.
Tank 3: Carbon; Rainbow Fairy Wrasse, Flame Hawk Fish, 2 Pajama
Cardinals, Lawnmower Blenny, Pink Spotted Watchman Goby plus Hermit
Crabs.
Tank 1 and 3 have been infested with hair algae over the past 4 months.
Tank 2 have consistently been without hair algae or slime algae, not
even a hint!
All tanks have been set up for more than one year and I do the same
routine for all three tanks, feeding in the same fashion. Tank 2 is the
"cleanest", absolutely no signs of hair algae and the tank has a general
clean
appearance - minimal detritus on rocks and macro algae where the other
two sometimes get that dirty, ash covered look and lots of stuff to blow
off during my weekly water changes.
<Ahhh!>
For several weeks, I was thinking that maybe the carbon was leaking
something back to the tank to encourage algae growth, but I renew them
with fresh carbon every two weeks, so maybe just the presence of
carbon... Then today I did an experiment during my weekly water change.
I took a green hair algae and red slime algae covered water return from
Tank 1 and swapped it with the coralline covered one from Tank 2. Within
five hours, that return is cleared of all green hair and red slime
algae! Yippi! Well, now, I'm guessing that one of the inhabitants in
Tank 2 is having a feast eating this stuff, I just can't decide if it is
the Flame Angel or the Bicolor Blenny.
<Could be both, either>
My bet is the Bicolor Blenny but the Flame Angel is the one showing most
interest. As I'm writing this, I placed a piece of hair algae covered
Zoanthid in the front...I want to watch nature in action, and so far,
the
Flame Angel is the one showing interest.
Thank you, each and every one on the WWM team, for creating this site
that helps all of us fish lovers to not only learn about the wonderful
creatures that we share our earth with, but also encouraging sound
stewardship to these wonderful creatures!
Jamie Barclay
<May, might I suggest an experiment with the carbon? Do soak some bit, a
tablespoon or so, in a jar of your RO water for a day or two and test
for soluble Phosphate... Some "brands" do leach this often rate-limiting
noisome algae nutrient. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Carbon and Kalkwasser.
3/13/2009
Hello all,
<Hi Tom>
Quick question:
<Quicker answer.>
Does activated carbon remove Kalkwasser?
<Possibly to some very minor degree.>
I am asking because the point in my sump where I would like to drip
Kalkwasser immediately flows through the activated carbon/PhosPure
section of my sump. I don't want to waste Kalk and carbon!
<Not a worry>
Thanks so much in advance! You guys are THE BEST!
<Thank you>
-Tom
<Mike>
Saltwater Aquarium Questions 2/19/09
Poly Filter, Algae Control,
Drunk Snails
Good Morning,
<Hi Jackie>
Happy
Thursday!!!
I have two questions. Will using a Poly pad in my sump
lessen the effectiveness of additives i.e. B-Ionics, Iodine, Trace
Elements?
<Shouldn't have much effect on the B-Ionics but will have
some effect on Iodine and will remove heavy metal trace elements.>
I
think I'm seeing more green hair algae growth since adding the pad.
<What are your nitrate/phosphate levels? Do read here Jackie.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm>
I have Cerith snails
that appear to be passed out (on their backs) during the day,
<Kind
of how I was last night:)>
but are very active at night. Is that
normal?
<Sure, can be. Mine are most active during the evening.>
Your advice/information is greatly appreciated.
<You're welcome.
James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks,
Jackie
Nitrate Sponge & Phosban Don't Mix! 1/29/09
Hi Crew,
<Hello BC>
This is more a commentary than a question. Hopefully it
might prevent some other person from making the same mistake.
I have
a 90g Reef Tank with a 40g sump with circulation pumps, heaters and a
Turboflotor 1000 Multi Skimmer (which I love and highly recommend). I
like to be able to run a little Polyfilter or other media without going
full canister filter, so I also have a Aquaclear 110 hooked on the back
of the sump. I've run Kent Marine Nitrate Sponge in a twin setup on my
FOWLR 90g for years. Where's the problem? I added Phosban to the mix.
I've never used the products but was having a problem with hair algae
and figured it might help with the phosphates I assume are feeding them
even though tests kits read zero across the board for phosphates,
ammonia, nitrite & nitrates.
<Likely>
Anyway, I added both the
Kent Marine Nitrate Sponge and the Phosban at the same time. Wince. In
hindsight, I probably shouldn't have, but there you go. The skimmer
immediately started having a fit-- producing copious amounts of super
wet foam. I removed both the Nitrate Sponge and the Phosban (once I
narrowed down the cause) and slipped in some Polyfilter hoping it might
help. I'd just performed a water change so I didn't have any more aged
water on hand. The corals and fish looked fine--perky, so I crossed my
fingers, disconnected the frothing skimmer and waited until the next day
hoping things would "right" themselves. They didn't--although the corals
and fish looked no worse for wear. I performed another 20 gallon water
change. The skimmer improved marginally--it took 30 seconds to fill the
cup instead of 10. I decided a huge water change was in order. The
following evening I changed 50 gallons. It seems to have worked. The
foam is still a little wet, but its gradually improving.
The only
thing I can figure out is that there was a reaction between the Nitrate
Sponge and the Phosban that effected the water. At first I figured an
airline on the skimmer was clogged, but it wasn't. I also tested the
unit in my FOWLR tank. It produced normal, dry foam there. I tested the
skimmer on the new patch of water, to see if their was something funny
coming in through the tap. Again, no problem. I don't use any water
conditioner since I always let my water age for at least 24 hours. I'd
added nothing else to the tank. Unless it was the Phosban alone (which I
doubt), then it had to be the combination of the two. Have you ever
heard of this? Do you know of anyone who runs both these medias
together? It was a real pain in the rear. Thankfully I didn't loose any
live stock to it, in fact, my corals seem happier than I've ever seen
them--must be all that nice new water!
Anyway, I saw nothing on your
site about a possible conflict between the two, so I thought I'd put
this out there.
<Wondering if the Phosban should have been rinsed out
thoroughly before use. As far as the Nitrate Sponge, it's just a porous
zeolite that fosters anaerobic bacteria aiding your denitrification
system in converting nitrate to nitrogen. It has no properties that
directly remove nitrate from saltwater. This product should cause no
reactions with Phosban.
Might be something else going on here. Bob
may have some input here.><<Nope. Nothing new. RMF>>
Cheers!
<Good
day to you. James (Salty Dog)>
BC
Activated Carbon Dust…Will It Hurt My Fish? – 08/19/08
I've
done some research through Google trying to figure out the answer to
this question but can’t really seem to find anything.
<<Okay>>
I didn't rinse off my activated carbon when I put it into my QT
tanks, so the water got filled with a light gray cloud.
<<Shouldn’t be a problem>>
It quickly dissipated and the water
just had a slight gray coloring to it, which went away after it
slowly settled out. Does that material hurt the fish?
<<Mmm,
no…is more unsightly than anything else>>
I'm sure it gets into
their gills and they also eat it when they are going for food plus
when they drink...
<<Indeed… But this is no more harmful than
fine sand that gets stirred up and suspended in the water column
from time to time>>
I'm a little worried I might have
inadvertently caused my fish problems.
<<No need to worry…the
fish have experienced/can handle quite turbid conditions>>
They
aren't displaying any signs of problems, but I'm just curious
because in the future I'll be a lot more careful about that if it’s
a bad thing to do to them.
<<All the same I would wash/rinse the
carbon before use…if only to flush away some of the residual
Phosphate left from the acid washing (activation) process>>
The
fish in question are two Semilarvatus B/F on one tank, then a Purple
tang and a Checkerboard wrasse in the other.
Grant
<<Some
beautiful fishes…setting up a Red Sea biotope maybe? Regards,
EricR>>
Re: Activated Carbon Dust...Will It Hurt My Fish?, HLLE -
08/19/08
It's interesting, the only bad things I've read
about carbon dust and problems are that some people attribute it to
HLLE.
<<Interesting…have never heard this myself. I wonder what
the logic/reasoning is. HLLE has been mostly attributed to
“extended” environmental and nutritional deficiencies in my
experience…and generally reversible with correction re>>
Sure
enough, I had the "dust storm" 2 or 3 days ago and my Purple tang is
now showing signs of HLLE.
<<I’m highly skeptical this one-time
exposure to carbon dust is responsible…if this is even indeed HLLE.
It is unusual such would show up so soon after capture…and doubtful
just “2 or 3 days” after exposure to carbon dust>>
I look at him
easily 5 times a day for at least a couple minutes at a time,
whether feeding or just watching to make sure he is healthy.
<<A
good thing>>
I saw NO HLLE last night, now today at lunch his
left eye has a ring around it that looks exactly like HLLE.
<<Mmm…perhaps you could provide a picture?>>
It isn't huge like
covering his face or anything, but definitely HLLE and definitely
there.
<<Maybe so…but again, unlikely as a result of the carbon
dust in my estimation. Perhaps this fish has been kept in poor
conditions/fed poorly for an extended period before you obtained it.
Or perhaps what you are seeing is a different viral complaint
brought in with the fish>>
I've never actually had HLLE develop
in a fish, I thought it would take longer to show up.
<<Indeed>>
Anyway, this fish is pretty much done with quarantine anyway, I
think I'll be putting him into the main display tank tonight, better
water quality for sure and there is live rock and other stuff to
graze on.
<<Perhaps for the best…agreed>>
Yes, I am setting up
a Red Sea biotope, EXCEPT I've got an Achilles tang going in ;)
<<An exquisite fish…but not easily kept/cared for. This fish
requires a large and mature system with high oxygen levels and heavy
water movement>>
Otherwise all fish are Red Sea varieties :)
Grant
<<Cheers, EricR>>
R2: Activated Carbon Dust...Will It Hurt My Fish? (and a bit of
grumbling re speed of query responses) - 08/21/08
I agree, it
seems VERY coincidental though that 2 or 3 days after my dust cloud,
my tang is exhibiting signs of HLLE.
<<Is likely just that>>
And yes, you would certainly think it would take longer than 2 or 3
days for water quality to affect the fish.
<<At least to manifest
in this way, yes>>
This was a Diver's Den fish from Live Aquaria,
so I don't know if I would blame it on bad water quality before I
purchased the fish, although I suppose in the shipping process,
either to them or to me, the water could have been bad and started
the issue which is just now showing itself.
<<Not in my
opinion... The HLLE would not manifest from an “incidental”
encounter such as you describe. Something else is at play here>>
Unfortunately, since I just put him into my 210, the chances of
getting a good picture of it aren't very good.
<<No worries… And
likely a moot point now with this move and continued god
nutrition…if this is HLLE>>
Once he gets used to that tank and
what not, I'll try to snap one, but hopefully it just goes away.
Basically, it just looks like light colored skin circling his left
eye. I've seen tons and tons of pictures of HLLE, I'm pretty
confident in my diagnosis, but I suppose I could be wrong.
<<Hard
to say…but “you” are in the best position to tell>>
I typically
get an answer from "the crew" of WWM within a day of asking a
question.
<<Yes…Bob encourages all to respond within 24hrs>>
Yesterday morning I sent one in and I used the word urgent in the
title and have yet to receive a reply.
<<Hmm, based on the
time-stamp of this query it has still only been “a day”…and I see
Bob has replied to you (twice!) since you sent this in>>
Irony at
its best :)
<<…?>>
I have some not very important question
about dust and I get a nice quick reply back.
<<Hmmm…then perhaps
you should have stated this was “not important” so we could have
ignored it entirely. Seriously mate, we must assume “all” queries
are important to those sending them in. Else…why are we here?>>
I
have an urgent question regarding Achilles tangs and I get nothing
;) Oh well.
<<A matter of timing… Your “urgent” query was not in
the inbox when I picked up your, unbeknownst to me at the time,
unimportant carbon-dust question. The inbox is not monitored
continuously, but is visited periodically by an all-volunteer staff
who then pick and choose queries to respond to based on their
comfort level/areas of expertise. All are encouraged to attend to
urgent/serious/emergency/ et al queries when possible, and many will
grab an “urgent” query and make a stab at it even if not their best
subject…if only to direct the querior to pertinent data re on the
site. But many times a query is left to be hopefully picked up by
someone with a better “take” on the issue>>
Hopefully I can ask
you my question, but I'll make it a lot simpler than my actual email
I sent in about it.
<<Okay>>
My tank has only been running
for about 2 months.
<<Quite new/young then>>
It has 180 pounds
of live rock in the display and a 55 gallon sump. I used live rock
and Red Gracilaria in the sump to combat nitrate buildup, plus I
have an EV-240 skimmer.
<<Nice skimmer>>
My sump is on an
opposite lighting schedule as the main tank. All parameters seem
stable. However, everything I've read about the Achilles tang says I
need a mature tank in order to house one...
<<A
mature/established/balanced environment is best, yes>>
What
exactly is it about a mature tank that is important to an Achilles?
<<A “mature” tank is important to “all” fishes in my opinion, but
can be especially important to the success of sensitive species like
the Achilles Tang. I always encourage hobbyists to allow their
systems to run fallow for six months or more to allow the
establishment of sustainable populations of micro- and
macro-organisms without the complications to water chemistry brought
on by a piscine presence, along with the pressures of fish
predation/browsing. Doing so increases the systems bio-diversity
which attributes greatly to the overall “balance” of the system over
the long term>>
I can’t see my water quality as getting much
better over time, I do weekly 10% water changes plus I'm basically
under stocked and over skimmed for my bioload.
<<Stocking density
and filtering capacity are governed by species selection as much as
species numbers. Based on your fish selections thus far and their
environmental requirements and size potential at maturity…I don’t
consider you particularly under stocked (maybe a few
Anthiines/Cardinal fishes for some size diversity) and I certainly
don’t consider you over-skimmed>>
Is there some sort of chemical
process going on in the tank that doesn't complete for 6 months?
<<There are a myriad of process going on in a new system (chemical
and biological). Just the difference in the appearance of emergent
life from your live rock in a system left fishless for six months
versus one not, would likely amaze you. Many hobbyists would also
tend to experience less of the see-saw effect of water chemistry if
their systems were allowed to “mature” before stocking>>
A year?
<<Even better>>
For what it's worth, I'm planning on quarantining
the tang for at least 6 weeks, if not 8. So by then, the tank will
have been up and stable for 4 months. I was actually debating not
quarantining the tang, but instead just doing a FW dip of about 5
minutes with a Methylene blue and formalin addition to the dip,
which is my standard FW dip I do when I get in new fish.
<<If
this fish comes to you in poor condition, this may be best>>
I've
heard the Achilles is very active and I'm just not too sure how long
it will stay "happy" in a 29g quarantine tank.
<<Mmm, yes…I would
only keep it here for a few weeks for close scrutiny…and then only
if in good shape…else dip and place in the display as you have
described>>
Seems like almost 2 months in QT for a very active
fish wouldn't be a good thing.
<<Not for this fish in this size
QT system…agreed>>
This fish is a Diver's Den specimen from Live
Aquaria and in the past I have never gotten any sort of disease
(that I know of) from them, so I was thinking it might just be
better to dip and introduce to the display.
<<Maybe…as
discussed>>
What are your thoughts on that?
<<You have them…>>
I know how much QT is stressed on your guys’ site and I do agree
with it 99% of the time, I just think there are special cases where
QT might not be worth the stress to the fish, and this might be one
of them?
<<I am in much agreement with you here. I’ll even go so
far as to say some species are better off without QT (e.g. –
Halichoeres spp.), in my opinion>>
Thanks for all you do!
Grant
<<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>
R3: Activated Carbon Dust...Will It Hurt My Fish (and a bit of
grumbling re speed of query responses) - 08/21/08
I am sorry
that it came across as I was grumbling about the speed of the reply,
that certainly wasn't my intent.
<<No worries Grant, the
limitations of this medium indeed makes one’s attitude difficult to
convey…and that works both ways>>
I was saying it was funny that
usually I get fast replies and the one time I said URGENT I didn't
get one.
<<I see…and I hope I was able to provide some measure of
explanation as to how that occurs>>
And yes, about 15 minutes
after I sent that, Bob responded to my urgent email. Anyway, I
really wasn't complaining about your guys’ service, you do a lot for
me, I was just stating it was funny the way it worked out.
<<Understood>>
As far as my statement about under stocked and
over skimmed goes, you're correct, at maturity my tank will be
nicely stocked and skimmed, which is how I planned it. However I was
referring to right now, when I have about 7 inches of fish in a 210
gallon tank with a skimmer that can handle a much higher bioload.
<<Yet still for the best… I think many times fishes are “damaged”
from just “growing up” in an inadequately supported and/or too small
environment. I feel this is most prevalent with tang species in the
hobby, but certainly not limited to them>>
Anyhoo, it's kind of a
moot point.
<<Oh?>>
The fish arrived in a bag that literally
reeked of ammonia.
<<Mmm…was the shipment delayed or lost? It
sounds like the fish was in the bag for much too long…and/or maybe
in a bag much too small>>
It smelled like something died in
there. The tang was barely moving, so I did a quick acclimation
process of about 10-15 minutes instead of the usual hour, and I
skipped the FW dip I was planning because I didn't want to stress an
already very stressed fish.
<<This fish should have been
introduced to the display immediately in this situation. And
depending on your acclimation process (i.e. – mixing water), in this
particular instance this may well have been the straw that broke the
camel’s back. Do see Bob’s article re here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm >>
I basically only saw
him breathe a couple times throughout the whole process, he appeared
dead when I put him into the QT and I watched him for 20 minutes, I
only saw his gills move once or twice and his mouth kind of twitched
once. He didn't really even attempt to swim, just kind of feebly
moved his tail for a few minutes without much balance control and
just ended up settled on the bottom. Poor fish, it was beautiful
too, I always hate to lose fish but especially the larger, more
intelligent and good looking ones.
<<Sounds like it never had a
chance…I’m sorry to realize your loss>>
Anyway, again, I want to
make clear I appreciate your guys’ service and definitely don't want
to be viewed as grumbling, in my mind when I wrote that email I was
in no way complaining about your service, I was just stating
something I found amusing, no harm no foul.
<<Fair enough mate>>
Grant
<<Regards, EricR>> |
Black Diamond Activated Carbon and Phosphates - 06/08/2007
Dear
Crew,
<Andy>
I have been battling Cyanobacteria for a few months
in my 110g reef tank that has been running a little over a year. I have
read and tried everything to eliminate the BGA, but to no avail. I
siphon off all the BGA from my rocks each week when I do my water
changes, but it grows back full force by the next week's water change. I
have limited my photoperiod, I have been very careful about feeding, I
upgraded my skimmer to an AquaC EV-180, I employ a 30g fuge with Chaeto,
I run a PhosBan reactor with media, I removed my bio-balls, I use RO/DI
water for all my water changes/top-offs . . . you get the picture. The
one variable that I have not eliminated is the use of activated carbon.
<Mmmm, the Chaetomorpha and Phosban material should remove all soluble
phosphate>
In fact, I believe I can trace the start of my problem to
a switch from ESV activated carbon to Black Diamond activated carbon.
<Both are fine products in my experience>
It seems that since I made
that switch, the BGA went from being here and there to being everywhere.
I switched because I was thinking the ESV was leaching phosphates and
causing the small amount of BGA I had, but this switch seems to have
only made matters worse. I've read Steven Pro's article on phosphates in
activated carbon, and see that Black Diamond leached 1 ppm of phosphates
in the sample, and I'm thinking this must be my problem. My water
parameters check out fine--0 ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, silicates and
phosphates; pH is a steady 8.3; alk is a steady 3.5 meq/L; specific
gravity is 1.026; temp is 78-80.
So, today I replaced all my carbon
with Purigen and am hoping that this solves my mystery. Has anyone had
similar experiences with Black Diamond (or other carbons) and do you
think the switch to Purigen was a good one? The guy at the LFS convinced
me to try it over Chemi-Pure, as you can regenerate Purigen and it was
about the same price.
Thanks for your help!
Andy
<The API
product has been known to pose excess HPO4 issues, but again, as stated,
this should not be a problem here. In fact, I propose removing the
contactor (Phosban) as your real issue may well be a lack of this
essential nutrient... that is fueling the BGA, which can exist at much
lower levels than is healthy for true algae/thallophytes and other
purposeful photosynthetic livestock (e.g. "corals"). Put in another ways
SOME phosphate is absolutely essential... the Cyano may well be being
favored by its exclusion here. Bob Fenner>
Chemi-Pure Sucks... I Think????? – 04/01/08
I Recently put a bag
of Chemi-Pure in my 46 gal bowfront tank thinking it was gonna help.
<<Help what?>>
Not 24 hours later mushroom corals melting and flame
angel is short on breath.
<<…?>>
Pretty sure he’s gonna die.
Fungia is no longer extending tentacles and my seahare doesn't look like
it’s doing to good either. I guess the real question is.. by me changing
out regular carbon and adding Chemi-Pure, the amount suggested by the
bottle, I was wondering if the addition of too much carbon or whatever
Chemi-Pure has is what made this happen??????????
<<Not typically,
no…especially if you followed the manufacturer’s instructions. If indeed
the Chemi-Pure is at fault here, it’s hard to say what may have caused
this reaction as you have provided no information re water
chemistry/tank conditions, before and after applying the Chemi-Pure.
This is a good and well thought of product, but do remove it and see if
things improve. I suppose there’s always the possibility of some type of
contamination…though I suspect there are other factors at play here.
Regards, EricR>> <More likely the Seahare itself is the cause of
issues here. RMF>
Chemi-Pure Overuse... lack of reading re chemical filtrants, Crypt...
3/6/08
Hello All,
<Jackie>
I am wondering if my tank may
have suffered from carbon shock. About 3 weeks ago I added Chemi-pure to
my sump.
<Mmm, even this high-quality product gets "used up" fairly
quickly... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/chemFiltrMar.htm
and the
linked files above>
I have a 90 gallon reef tank that has been up and
running for a little over a year. About a week after adding the
Chemi-pure I noticed that my Kole Eye Tang was looking a little pale. A
few days later he looked as though he may have developed ich (I think I
noticed about 5 or so white dots). I decided to keep an eye on him for a
couple of days (in the mean time I setup my QT tank). Roughly two days
later my Yellow Tang had a few white dots (which I'll assume was ich). I
was able to catch the Kole Eye Tang and move him to my QT tank treated
with Cupramine (spelling)<Corrected>. The QT tank
salinity, temp, and
PH matched the main tank. I was not able to catch the Yellow Tang.
<... if there is a protozoan infestation, all fishes need to be
captured, moved... Draining the tank/system if necessary, most
practical>
The next day Kole was upside down pressed against the
filter. At this point I'm very leery of adding other fish to the QT tank
(I'm sure you think I'm crazy).
<... is not a QT, but a treatment
tank...>
It's been a few days and Yellow no longer has the white
dots.
<Cycling... will be back... see WWM re Cryptocaryon
life-cycle... treatment possibilities>
However, she is very pale
about the face.
Back to the Chemi-pure. The product I purchased
supports a 200 gal tank. I was not aware when I purchased it that you
can't split it up.
So, I called Boyd Chemi-pure and explained my
dilemma. He said that I could still use the 200 units in my 90 gal
without adversely effecting the tank inhabitants.
<I concur>
I'm
now wondering if he gave me sound advise.
<Advice>
Is it a
coincidence that my fish started to stress out shortly after adding the
Chemi-pure?
<Likely so, yes>
If not, should I remove the
Chemi-pure? Not sure if removing it will also cause additional stress.
Can too much carbon adversely affect my corals and inverts?
<Mmm,
can... read where you were referred to... but not likely in otherwise
well-set-up and maintained systems>
They seem to be doing fine at
this point.
Thanks,
Jackie
<Read... then act, but soon. Bob
Fenner> - Carbon removing trace elements... -
I
have heard that if you use activated carbon in a filter, that it will
remove trace elements. True or false??
<True and false, it removes
some trace elements, most notably iodine, but leaves plenty as well.>
I use a Eheim Professional 2 canister filter, which uses a charcoal
filter pad in it. Would this be removing the trace elements I'm adding
twice a week??
<Depends on what you're adding. I would only run
carbon once a month for 3-4 days or when you notice any tinge of yellow
in the water (best seen in a clean white bucket). Have fun! -Kevin>
Pat
Auburn, NY Carbon Causing HLLE?
Hi Crew, thanks
for taking my question.
<Sure! Scott F. with you today!>
First let
me give you a brief history of my situation.
I have a hippo tang that
developed hole in head disease early on. It is stable (some scaring
around the head) and has been there for about a year and a half or so.
Anyway, he developed ich a little while back, I believe it was from a
wrasse that I added without quarantine.
<A lesson learned, huh?>
I
put all my fish, 1 tang, 2 clowns and the wrasse in a 35 gallon plastic
container (quarantine) for 8 weeks while I let the tank run fishless to
get rid of the parasites. I decided to use the "siphoning bottom of
tank everyday" method to cure (no copper) and it worked great.
<Well
done! Glad to hear that!>
Now to the point. During the eight weeks in
quarantine, my hippo tang showed tremendous improvement regarding the
HLLE, the scarring around his head was reduced by at least 50%. Problem
is, I put him back in the display tank and all the progress has reversed
and the scaring went back to the way it was. There is no way the water
quality in the quarantine tank was better than the display. I was using
tap water, a power head, a heater and a sponge filter. The display
tank gets RO + DI water, 20% bi weekly water changes, live rock, live
sand, better diet, steady temp, etc. So I figured it was the lack of
carbon use that helped reverse HLLE. I did not use Carbon at all in the
quarantine and run it constantly in my display tank. So I want to
experiment and stop using Carbon in my display tank.
<Well, that
could be one possibility...I'm quite skeptical, because use of carbon
far outweighs any possible ill effects that could happen, IMO. Yes, some
people claim that carbon depletes trace elements, but if you are
conducting regular water changes, this argument doesn't hold up, IMO.
Anecdotally, you could proceed under the hypothesis that carbon
contributed to the HLLE condition, but I don't know how it will work
out. An interesting experiment, however. I commend you for trying! Do
consider other possibilities, such as "stray voltage" in the display
tank, or other possible environmental factors, too...Test for all of the
basic parameters, and then some!>
Will this effect my Coral in
anyway? I have a Bubble, Torch, Candy Cane, Various Polyps and Xenia.
<Well, activated carbon helps remove all sorts of allelopathic compounds
that are released by corals on a regular basis. You might see some
differences in the health of these animals if you discontinue its use in
this tank.>
Should I increase my water changes, or is it not
necessary?
<I'd consider more frequent water changes to help
compensate>
Will the protein skimmer pick up the slack? I use a
Aqua-C Remora.
<Aggressive protein skimming will definitely help,
too.>
Thanks for you input. Ang.
<My pleasure, Ang. Do test your
theory, but also look at other possible factors along the way...I'm sure
that you'll have some interesting results to report! Good luck! Regards,
Scott F> Carbon Fallout!
Hey folks, how's the Q and A
treating you?
<Excellent! Scott F. here today!>
I finally have my
tank up and running after months of planning and reading the best site
on the net. You run the best show out there, and I cannot tell enough
people about it.
<Awesome! We're really glad to hear that!>
I had
a situation arise and I wanted to know if you could help keep me? I had
a carbon container come apart in my sump. I woke up to black water, and
volcanic ash all over my sand bed and the rock.
<Yuck!>
I have
hooked up my Magnum to filter out the dust, but its going really slow,
in fact, I haven't seen any improvement in 8 hours of running it. My
protein skimmer (which I know I should dig a big hole in my yard and
bury it in and unmarked grave), the Red Sea Berlin Turbo, has been
useless. I could use some advice as to what, if any, other things I
should be doing to get rid of this catastrophe.
<I'd consider some
good old fashioned water changes, with careful siphoning of the rocks
and substrate. A series of small water changes, in conjunction with fine
mechanical filtration, can really help do the trick!>
My other
question is: I purchased a new Mag Drive, 2400gph pump to supply the
closed loop I built for the top rim of the tank for circulation. I put
the pump below the tank in the cabinet and plumbed it from there back up
to the tank. I reduced the 1" inlets and outlets to 1/2 inch to avoid
the bulky 1" around the rim of the tank. I plugged it in today to test
it out, and I am getting a dribble out of the 6 outlets I put into the
closed loop. Where did I go wrong?
<Hmm...Sounds like you are putting
a lot of back pressure on the pump with the reduced tubing. Perhaps
that, combined with the outlets, is creating a problem here. It may take
some tweaking on your part, unfortunately. I can't really give you much
more advice, other than to try going for the once inch diameter tubing
and, perhaps, less outlets...Sigh>
Looking forward to hearing from
you, its finally getting above 50 here in Wisconsin, and I need to get
outside before it snows here again. Its only April, we could get a
blizzard warning any time.
Quinn.
<Wow! I think it would be cool
(no pun intended) to have a blizzard once in a while, but I imagine that
it gets old real fast! Hope that the spring and summer are awesome for
you! Regards, Scott F> Carbon Problems
Hi, I have been
keeping salt water fish for over a year now, and I was trying to move
into keeping a reef. I bought a 65 gallon hex tank, to keep the tank for
show, in it there is 60 lbs of live rock, 15 lbs live sand, 20 blue leg
hermit crabs, 2 juvenile maroon clowns (one 3 inches the other less than
an inch, they get along really well), and a host anemone. I have been
running a canister filter, rated for 150 gallons, using activated carbon
and filter pad and ceramic rings. Also in the tank I have a Prizm
skimmer and maxi jet 900 power head for circulation. I have tried
purchasing Xenia corals but they have all died out slowly over the
course of a week or two. My LFS told me that I could not run carbon with
the Xenia, I wanted to know if this was true, and was this true of all
soft corals?
<I've been using Chemi-Pure for years and have no
problems with keeping corals. I do feed DT's phytoplankton and
Cyclop-Eeze weekly.>
I have already stopped using the activated
carbon and ceramic rings and the tank conditions have declined, they
told me to stop running it at least 30 days before getting the xenia,
and the xenia will filter the tank like the carbon did.
<Corals
produce most of their food providing ideal lighting conditions exist.
Supplemental feedings as I do, benefit the animals. We are trying to
duplicate nature here.>
That doesn't sound right, nothing I read
indicated that, but I wanted to ask to make sure. Thanks for your help,
I love the website, it is like my bible, I must have spent 40+ hours
reading it over the last few weeks since I found it.
<Keep enjoying.
Reading is fundamental in this hobby. James (Salty Dog)> Carbon
use 8/2/05
Hey crew.<<Hello - Ted here>> I have a 33 gal.
Long, at least 25 lbs. Live rock 30 lbs. Live sand. A Fluval
404,marineland bio-wheel 400 and a red sea Prizm protein skimmer. Should
I use carbon <<Yes>> I understand that carbon can produce high phosphate
levels my water parameters r great would like to keep it like it is.
<<Low quality carbon can leach phosphates. High quality carbon typically
does not. Some better brands are Black Diamond, Seachem Matrix Carbon
and Rowa Carbon. Read here for more information on carbon (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chemFiltrMar.htm).>>
Thanks in advance.
Gary
<<You're welcome. Cheers - Ted>>
Loss of vitamins, SW - 09/14/06
Hi WWM crew,
I have a
question for you regarding activated carbon. Should I remove it when I
dose multi-vitamins into the tank? If no, won't the activated carbon
absorb the vitamins? Thanks in advance.
Regards.
<Mmm...
some... but if the carbon is more than an hour or two old... exceedingly
little... More likely to be skimmed... Bob Fenner>
Using Carbon and Medication Simultaneously...Mmmm - 6/1/07
Hi,
<Hello.>
you guys and your page been a lot of help,
<Thanks.>
but I can't find any info on using these two carbon and kick ick at same
time.
<You shouldn't use activated carbon and any type of medication
at the same time, the carbon will remove/absorb the medication.
Furthermore I suggest researching the kick ich a little deeper, let's
just say it's not something I would use, and I certainly hope this is
being done in a QT tank and not your display. Also please google Steven
Pros articles re: ich, they were originally published on reef-keeping
magazine I believe.>
I been told the carbon sucks the O2 out the
water is this true?
<Read here;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chemFiltrMar.htm .>
thank you for your
help
<Anytime, Adam J.>
Algae growth (removal of desirable materials by carbon use)
Bob,
I was told that the use of carbon would remove the chemicals I put into
the tank.
<Some chemicals>
I was using liquid calcium and pro dKH
to grow the purple/pink algae.
<These are not removed by carbon
use... a note though: both biominerals and alkalinity are required for
coralline growth, health>
Now I am almost out of the chemicals and
still no results. Should I remove the carbon or not or should I have
gotten better chemicals?
Thanks, David Garcia
<"Better" chemicals?
Let's move this discussion back a bit... to talking about your system
(what's in it, how it is/was set-up, maintained)... and what sorts of
tests you do, what led you to use such. Bob Fenner> Carbon, trace
elements
Mr. (?Dr.) Fenner,
<Just call me Bob, please, no
doctorate.>
My questions concern the use of activated carbon and
potential trace element depletion. From your previous discussions, I
gather that the pros of high quality carbon outweigh the
potential/theoretical cons.
<Yes. In almost all settings,
circumstances... the types, amounts of materials removed of more use
than retained>
I am currently addressing a case of HLLE with vitamin
(Vita-Chem, Zoecon) and Iodine (Kent Marine) supplementation of food,
but I have removed Chemi-pure because of concerns regarding additional
trace element depletion. Unfortunately, despite active biological
filtration and protein skimming, the water clarity has decreased.
<Yes... do agree with your approach, concerns, and understand the
inputs, consequences you are observing>
1) As long as vitamin/iodine
supplementation of food and regular water changes (20% every two weeks)
are continued, do you envision a problem with re-adding "fresh"
Chemi-pure?
<No>
2) How frequently do you recommend supplementing
with Vita-Chem, Zoecon, and Iodine (i.e., do you rotate these
additives)?
<About once a week with all as a general use, and no to
rotation... they are miscible/mixable>
(Note: My current lighting for
this fish only system would not sustain live rock or growth of Caulerpa
algae as you have recommended for HLLE.)
<Hmm, perhaps a separate
sump/refugium that can/could be linked/attached to the main system?>
Thanks for your input.
<You are welcome my astute friend. Bob Fenner>
Dana Ascherman Re: carbon, trace elements
Bob,
Thanks
for the prompt response--I'm impressed! Just to clarify regarding my 2nd
question: you suggest combining each of these supplements with the food
concurrently, but only once per week (?even though instructions for
Vita-Chem suggest 5 times per week).
<Yes... and not to be
confusing... even "spilling" some into the tanks water directly>
I
assume that adding vitamins/iodine to the water confers little
additional benefit if the fish are eating supplemented food. Sorry to
pester you.
<Not necessarily... as they do drink it... but other
living mechanisms in the system also directly/indirectly benefit, in
turn benefit the system, other life... and never a bother>
Dana
Ascherman
<Bob Fenner> Supplements
I have an
Marineland eclipse running on a soon to be reef. Should I remove the
carbon? I have been hearing testimonials about removing the carbon
filter. Thanks
>
I endorse the periodic use of activated carbon in
most types of marine systems. It gets "used up" very quickly (minutes to
hours) of being added, so I would just change it out about once a month.
Bob Fenner Carbon use
bob I was told not to use carbon
in my filtration. Reason given is that it will remove trace elements,
but trace elements can be replaced .should I use carbon?
if the
answer is yes why ? thanks Rick.
>
This myth was/is dismissed by
Tim Hovanec in the most recent issue of Aquarium Fish Magazine... no to
carbon removing anything of real danger... I would use it about once a
month... to remove dissolved organics... color from the water... that
can't be taken out practically in other ways.
Bob Fenner
Carbon/algae
Bob,
I have a new reef tank that is 4 wks. old.
20 gal sump with w/d filter, Berlin turbo protein skimmer, 100 or so
lbs. LR, 25 watt UV ster. and lighting is CSL 4x55 watt PC's(2 blues, 2
white). Livestock consists of 1 yellow tang, 1 blue damsel, 3 polyps, 2
mushroom, 3 small leathers and a scavenger "kit"(20 snails 20 ea. hermit
crabs, 5 peppermint shrimp, 4 emerald etc.) Yesterday I added a 10 oz.
bag of Chemi-pure. At the same time I cleaned p/s collection cup. Now
p/s is no longer skimming. Is this because of carbon or do you think it
needs further investigation.
<The carbon, resin mix... the
Chemi-Pure>
It seems to be producing more bubbles than before but
nothing is rising into the collection cup.
Algae. I had been pretty
easily keeping up with the brown algae removal (scraping it off the
glass, stirring up the sand), but now some of it is getting a little
"cottony" on certain pieces of LR. It seems to be growing IMO where the
water flow is the lowest.
<Good observation>
My sump pump is 810
gph. I fear it may be hair algae and don't know if I should be patient
with it and let it run it's course or should be trying to remove it some
other way.
<Don't sweat the hair algae... supplanting the brown...
all part of "nature's way">
I' ve thought about buying a powerhead
and aiming it opposite from current outflow tube and toward where growth
is. Not sure how strong I would need and if it would do anything, water
flow now seems pretty strong.
<More is better>
I've considered
keeping the lights off for a day or two but don't know if I should with
new inverts in new tank. Also I tested amm, nitrite, nitrate all
undetectable?
<Don't change the light cycle. No worries>
I have
not done a water change as of yet because I have not been able to detect
any nitrates. I do have a 32 gal. can filled with 4 day old seawater I
keep circulating with an old powerhead and heater.
<Good protocol>
Thanks again for your help/advice. - Kevin
<Instruct others on your
success. Bob Fenner>
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