FAQs about Dendrophylliid Coral Foods/Feeding/Nutrition Related Articles: Dendrophylliid Corals,  Related FAQs: Dendrophylliids 1, Dendrophylliids 2, Dendrophylliid Identification, Dendrophylliid Behavior, Dendrophylliid Compatibility, Dendrophylliid Selection, Dendrophylliid Systems, Dendrophylliid Disease, Dendrophylliid Reproduction, Stony/True Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral Placement,  Foods/Feeding/Nutrition, Disease/Health, Propagation, Growing Reef Corals,  Stony Coral Behavior,

Dendro Skin Receding         1/21/17 Hello WWM Crew, <Howsit Eric?> I have a Dendro colony and a handful of frags that came from the colony. I noticed in the last year or so the skin of the Dendros have been very slowly receding from the base towards the head. On a few of the frags the skin will recede and leave a baby head behind. <Evidence of (too much) stress> No heads have died, the tentacles are always fully extended, and they always eat when I feed them about once a week. <Boing! Make that once a day> Is the skin receding normal? <Nope> Attached is a picture of a few frags that have the skin receding but also seem to be growing the skeleton taller. Thanks, Eric <Do you dose Iodide-ate? I would once a week; during regular maintenance. Bob Fenner

Question about feeding green branching sun coral    1/26/12 Good evening to the WetWebMedia crew! <Susan> I love your site and use and recommend you often. I couldn't find a good answer for this on your site, though, so I thought I'd email and ask. <Ok> Two months ago, I acquired a pair of green branching sun corals from a local LFS specializing in corals who knew I had success with orange suns and wanted a rare sun to add to my DT. (You can see my parent colony on the upper left. The smaller orange dot mid-photo is a spawn from the parent, which has spawned twice for me and given me 29 surviving baby suns, which are in the live rock behind this image.) <I see these> My question is...the orange sun eats once a day, a combination of frozen Hikari mini Mysis and enriched frozen brine. I give it one fast day a week. <I'd feed all just two or three times per week. Sufficient and less issues w/ pollution> The green suns have learned to open when I feed my seahorses ( this is a seahorse species tank) and want to be fed FAR more often than the orange sun. <Yes... Do look into PE Mysis for your horses if they're of size> The last week or so, they have wanted feeding three times a day (every time the seahorses eat) and although I do not feed them that often, I have fed them twice a day this week. They have not regurgitated or spit out any food or waste. In fact, they have started emerging faster and waiting longer for food, as if they want to be fed twice daily. Both have started putting put new heads since I started feeding more frequently. I took this photo during tonight's feed. This is typical of the corals "begging." My question is...as long as they are showing growth and begging like this, am I harming them by feeding twice a day in relatively small amounts? (By small amounts, I mean 1-2 brine or one mini Mysid per open head.) <Mmm, not likely trouble, no> I know suns do notoriously badly in captivity, so I want these to do as well as my orange ones. Thanks so much in advance for your help, and sorry about the novel-length question! Susan <Thank you for positing it. Bob Fenner>

Re: Question about feeding green branching sun coral    1/26/12 Thank you Bob, for your response! <Welcome Suse> I will see about giving the corals a couple more fast days. It amuses me that they "beg" (in their way) as much as the seahorses do. <Yes... Tubastrea spp. only open during the night in the wild for the most part... so, like many Scleractinians, some Alcyonaceans, they are indeed responding to your operant conditioning> The tank gets 2 x 15% water changes a week because of the seahorses, so fortunately the water quality stays fairly pristine (the reason I dared feed slightly more). Thanks for the recommendation on the PE Mysis. The horses actually do get a combination of PE and Hikari (they seem to like both) but I'd read on your site a year ago (when I was getting started with sun corals) that suns do better with small and/or chopped food, so I don't offer them the PE. <Ok> Thanks a ton, both for the answer and for the resource you provide. I hope to be able to share good news of the greens spawning someday too. Susan <Cheers, BobF> Re: Question about feeding green branching sun coral    1/26/12 Thank you Bob, for your response! <Welcome Suse> I will see about giving the corals a couple more fast days. It amuses me that they "beg" (in their way) as much as the seahorses do. <Yes... Tubastrea spp. only open during the night in the wild for the most part... so, like many Scleractinians, some Alcyonaceans, they are indeed responding to your operant conditioning> The tank gets 2 x 15% water changes a week because of the seahorses, so fortunately the water quality stays fairly pristine (the reason I dared feed slightly more). Thanks for the recommendation on the PE Mysis. The horses actually do get a combination of PE and Hikari (they seem to like both) but I'd read on your site a year ago (when I was getting started with sun corals) that suns do better with small and/or chopped food, so I don't offer them the PE. <Ok> Thanks a ton, both for the answer and for the resource you provide. I hope to be able to share good news of the greens spawning someday too. Susan <Cheers, BobF> Update on Green Branching Sun Coral    4/28/14 A couple of months ago, I wrote for advice about feeding my green branching sun corals. Short summary: I was concerned about overfeeding, since the corals seemed hungry all the time and were begging for food 2-3 times a day (every time I fed my seahorses). On your advice, I stuck with small amounts of food and kept an eye on the corals to make sure they weren't regurgitating (they don't). They seem to do better with two very small feedings than one larger one. <Ah good> Turns out, the corals were heading into a growth spurt. I've seen about a 20% overall size increase in the last 2 months, and many of the heads have doubled in size. I've attached a photo from last night - these corals open under full T-5 lighting - <A learned behavior... open mostly only during the night in the wild> I target feed them daily and they've learned to associate "lights on" with food. They eat a combination of (frozen) Spirulina-enriched brine, mini Mysis, and "reef caviar" (capelin roe), and probably get some live Phyto and oyster feast from what I add to the tank. Anyway, just wanted to email to say thank you - and to share the photo of green suns doing well in captivity! <Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>    crop

Red Sun Coral/Dendrophylliid Feeding 3/31/2011
<Hello Tom>
I recently purchased a beautiful Sun Coral. I've had it a week, and it still has not opened to eat. I tried to entice it by using an eye dropper with Phytofeast, placing mysis shrimp on the cups, but so far no takers.
Any other tricks to try?
<I suggest having a quick read here, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm,
and then on to the Dendrophylliid Feeding FAQs here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrofdgfaqs.htm.
And then off to Dendrophylliid behavior here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrobehfaqs.htm.>
Thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Tom

Sun coral feeding during a 2 weeks vacation  6/6/10
Dear WWM crew,
First of all, congratulation for this great site. It has been a source of excellent info in the past for me. The time has come however to ask my own question.
<Well okay!>
In one month from now I will be going on vacation for 2 weeks and I am worried about feeding the tank.
Here is some basic information on the tank.
Main Tank: 60 Liters
RDSB: 10kg Ocean Direct sand with prefilter
Frag Tank: 15 Liters, In-line. At the moment empty with only live rock and no lights
Refugium: 20 Liters, Chaeto, Reverse Daylight Lighting
Inhabitants:
2x Percula
2x Lysmata debelius
Euphyllias
Acanthastrea
Tubastrea (healthy, small colony, alternated feeding with Mysis, brine, krill, Cyclop-eeze every other day, expands for multiple hours per day)
The system has been running for more that half a year (RDSB 2 months now) and I can see a very good population of pods in the tank an hour after the lights go out.
As you might have guessed, the main problem is related to the feeding of the Tubastrea. Although I could ask family members to care for the tank, I do not feel comfortable in asking them to come multiple times a week to feed the sun coral (rather labor intensive especially if you dont know how to do it).
My question is, what would you recommend me to do to keep the sun coral happy (placement in refugium etc etc), given the minimum effort by friends/family in feeding the tank.
By the way, do you think that feeding the tank with Cyclops-eeze 2 times per week would be enough for the Tubastrea?
<Yes, and for here, the vacation, I would risk having someone who you practice with feed the Tubastrea just twice while you're gone... i.e. once per week. This should be sufficient and not "that" risky. Bob Fenner>
Thank you for you help
Regards,
I. Mylothridis
Re: Sun coral feeding during a 2 weeks vacation  6/6/10
Thanks Bob,
I guess I will start the lectures soon to be on time lol.
<Good idea Ioannis!>
Thanks for you reply
Regards,
I. Mylothridis
<Welcome my friend. Cheers, BobF>

Re: Sun coral feeding during a 2 weeks vacation   6/14/10
Dear Bob,
<Ioannis>
Sorry to bother you again, but I have a really quick question.
I am rearranging some corals in my DT and I would like to place the sun polyps at a specific place. That place however has a relatively good intensity of light (middle-top of the tank, under led lighting).
Considering that I have no issues with algae in my tank (haven't had to clean my glass for the last month at all), do you think that there would be any risk (algae growth or irritation?) of placing the sun polyps under such lighting?
<Likely not a problem. I do encourage folks who keep Dendrophylliids, Goniopora, Catalaphyllia... to place them in such open settings, to facilitate feeding every polyp. I don't think this case will result in photo-shock or algal issues>
Thank you beforehand,
I. Mylothridis
<Welcome. BobF>

Sun coral feeding 01/12/09 Good morning, Yet another dilemma! I have a sun coral that I brought home the day before Christmas. The LFS instructed me to feed twice a week with brine shrimp. This did not appear to be adequate, as the coral only put on a slight display while feeding. When I informed the LFS of this behavior, I was told to feed daily. The coral appears to be two separate animals, each with multiple mouths, one more pale than the other. The pale side seems to eat better (appears inflated). I've not seen a big colorful display. I've read that some reefers actually remove their sun coral from the display tank, place it in a small container, and feed it there. Have you had any experience with these corals? <I have multiple experiences with these corals myself. They can be a bit difficult. Instead of removing the coral, I would suggest you make something to serve as a "feeding dome" to give it time to feed. This can be an inverted "critter keeper" or something you make out of a cut up two liter bottle. Basically, it just needs to cover the coral and trap the food onto the coral. Keep this on the coral (with food) for an hour or two. Then turn remove it, turn the pumps back on and see what happens. These corals require a lot of TLC and patience.> Thank you Pat <Good luck and de nada, Sara M.>

Re: sun coral feeding 01/13/09 Good News! When I got home last night and the sun coal was looking better than it ever had (both sides inflated with mouths open without being prompted by food) While I was feeding it I was able to see it eat more than I ever had before. <Very cool, thanks for sharing.> Thanks for your advice for a feeding dome. I'm sure I will need to implement that once I re-introduce fish. Pat <Good idea... the fish will try to steal food from the coral. Best, Sara M.>

Feeding (Or Not!) Sun Coral -- 02/13/08 Hey There, Jake here. <<Hiya Jake'¦Eric here>> I was wondering does a sun coral HAVE to be fed shrimp and meaty foods? <<Yes'¦Tubastrea sp. are quite the voracious carnivore>> Or can it survive on plankton alone? <<Not in the closed systems we keep'¦unless specifically designed for such>> Because I have not fed my sun coral anything but DT's phytoplankton for a month and it seems fine. <<An inappropriate food'¦am sure the coral is not 'consuming' such a diet. Fine meaty foods ARE required'¦along with 'direct' feedings of such. These corals can look fine for months while still starving, as yours most assuredly is doing>> Thanks for all you guys <<and gals>> help. <<Happy to assist, Jake'¦now feed that coral [grin]! EricR>> Re: Feeding (Or Not!) Sun Coral - 02/14/08 Thanks for all your guys help. <<Happy to share>> What would be a good food for the sun coral? <<Any minced meaty foods of a marine origin, but for simplicity/convenience, small frozen Mysis Shrimp and frozen Cyclops-eeze are good fare. Giving these foods an occasional soak in Selcon or Vita-Chem is also beneficial>> Every time I try to shoot some food its way my cleaner shrimp looks like it takes the food before the sun coral can consume it. <<A common problem'¦ I know of some hobbyists h=who go to the extent of removing the coral to a small container of tank water outside the aquarium for feeding>> And I have been putting some Cyclops-eeze in a turkey baster and shooting it at the sun coral. <<Can be effective'¦ Try adding the frozen Mysis this way as well'¦with enough to keep the shrimp occupied/away. The coral will likely need such direct feedings at least 4-times a week...more if the polyps begin to recede/disappear>> Is that a good food for it? <<Indeed>> Thanks again guys <<Quite welcome. EricR>>

Sun Coral Help, fdg.    6/30/07 Hi guys! I just purchased my first Sun Coral. It seems very healthy with about 25 polyps on it. I have done my research and understand that I need to feed it every 2 or 3 days and that it does not need to be in strong light. I have placed it in the shadow of an overhang at the bottom of my tank. <I'd lean more towards every other day. But some people get away with feeding less often.> My only issue is that it only comes out to feed when the lights are off. Otherwise it stays tight inside. I have been feeding it in the night for now, but have heard that they can be switched over from their nocturnal habits. <Yes, they can be "trained" to expect food around a certain time.> Can you give me some advise on HOW to do this? <Just move the feeding time slowly towards lights-on hours. Feeding it every day for several days while it's in "training" might help the coral get used to the new routine faster. It might also simply switch on its own if you usually feed the tank during the day (especially if you feed around the same time every day).> Thanks! Keith <happy to help Sara M.>

Re: coral advice... comp. f'?   3/21/07 Thanks Brandon, for the quick and detailed response. <No problem.> After reading your reply and researching further, I have come to the conclusion that this is not the right coral for me, or rather; I am not the right keeper for this coral. <Sorry to hear that.  They can be quite rewarding.> But after more consideration, I think I would prefer to spend some time to try to get this animal healthy, and sell or trade it to another enthusiast who WILL make an appropriate keeper. <There are quite a few.> If I just it back to the LFS they will likely just throw it back in with their semi-cured Live rock. <Not uncommon.> Now, unless another person spots it AND recognizes it AND is willing to make the effort to properly maintain it, this would be basically like throwing it away. That just would not feel right. <Agreed.> Here is what I am considering: I have a 2.5 gallon HEX tank with UG filter and lights. I would like to set up a solitaire habitat for this coral, and spend the next few weeks giving the daily or bi-daily feedings it requires. I would like to use the 2.5 gallon for this, but will never find a skimmer that would fit. I do think that it would be easy enough to change 25 to 50 percent of the water two to three times weekly. For filtration, I would be using an air driven UG plate with a bio-pad from my existing filer placed underneath and cover it with crushed coral. I have small submersible 50w heater that will fit in the tank as well. This Sun Coral would be the only organism in this tank and it will be a temporary situation. <Hmmmm.> Does this sound like something that might work? <I think that it would be easier on you and the coral alike to try something a little different.  Get a deep bowl and place the coral in it.  When you want to feed it all you have to do is remove the bowl (water still inside), and feed it that way.  The left over food can be discarded, and you can then place the bowl with the coral in it, back into the tank.  This method was proposed to me when I was inquiring about keeping Tubastrea Micracantha.  Brandon.> Green Tubastraea sp. Captive Care of Tubastraea micrantha  2/4/07 Hello All! <Greetings!  Mich here.> Recently, after some extensive research I have decided to purchase a nice piece of Sun Coral. My hesitation was due to the fact that each polyp needed to be fed quite regularly. <Regular feeding is imperative.> I began shopping for a Sun Coral recently and came across a dark green one! I have never seen one or even heard of it in such a color. I purchased it after taking the advise of the LFS's manager that it was no different than the other Sun Corals. My question basically is, was he right? <Not so much. It is in the same genus, but the species is different.  It sounds like you have Tubastraea micrantha.  It could possibly be Tubastraea diaphana, but I will assume it is the former.  More info here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm This coral has a notoriously poor survival record and requires a very fast current and large amounts of food.  I do hope you have a great protein skimmer.> I have tried researching on the Internet and yes, WetWebMedia.com and was not able to find any one mention a Sun Coral of this color, although, there was a website with professional photography of reefs around the world showing a green Sun Coral similar to mines, but no mention of it otherwise.      The coral came with some smaller YELLOW polyps beginning to grow around it. I will be feeding this coral at least three times a week or can I cut down on the feedings.   <Should be fed daily.> I culture my own phytoplankton and add about one full plastic cup a day, 1/2 in the morning and 1/2 at night, can this substitute the feedings? <Malnutrition is the biggest challenge these corals face in captivity, daily targeted feedings with mysids, diced fish, and zooplankton soaked in Selcon would be most appropriate.>      In addition, I have been getting conflicting information on where I can place the coral, in caves, dark areas, or in a lighted area? <Where it can be most easily fed without getting so much light that it get overgrown with algae.> I would have liked to place the coral higher up in my 24" tall 90 gallon tank where water flow is more abundant, only problem is, I'm afraid the 150w halides may burn the coral? <Shouldn't burn it.  I'd be more concerned about water flow and feedings.> Just so you know, I have an LPS dominant tank, 90 gallons with a 50 gallons tank used as a refuge with Caulerpas and Chaetomorpha. Thank you for any advice you can provide. <Hope you're up for a challenge my friend!  -Mich>

Sun Coral fdg. and Hitchhiker Soft Coral ID  1/25/07 Hi Bob, <Debra> Regarding that red macroalgae that you thought might be a Galaxaura and a possible cold water macroalgae, since I paid $30 for it I took it back for credit and ended up getting a sun coral that came in on their Tuesday shipment.  I asked about it and was told, "Easy to care for, just put it in a cave." <?...> After getting it home I started reading all about it and thought, "What have I gotten myself into now!"  Anyway, I've been doing lots of research and reading forums. <Better to do ahead of time my friend> I've had the coral for about a week now.  It actually came on a piece of shell as opposed to a piece of rock, which had made handling and placement very difficult.  Last night I finally used a mix of Marineland Hold Fast (which by itself doesn't work well) and Loctite Super Glue Gel to place it on a small Tonga branch.  This will keep the babies near the edge out of the sand and give it a more stable base.  During this process a small corner of the shell broke and a small brownish fuzzy slime was attached.  Could I possibly have damaged the coral there? <Mmm, maybe... but not likely>   None of the coral was detached, just a small corner of shell underneath.  The all appear to be healthy... for now.  There is no discoloration at the base, so far it's all a peachy/pink color with no gray or black spots. I tried counting how many there are in this colony but stopped at 35.  For feeding I basically took the recipe from your book using frozen shrimp, a small piece of red snapper filet I had in the freezer, oysters (not frozen), and a couple cubes of mysis shrimp and brine shrimp all blended in a processor; placed in egg crate to form cubes and then frozen.  At feeding time I grate a cube into a small cup and mix in some Cyclop-Eeze or Sweetwater Zooplankton and Selcon.  Last Friday (1/19) I just started adding Kent Coral-Vite and Live Farms BioPlankton, which I plan to continue once weekly.  I also plan to purchase this weekend some DT Phytoplankton. <Mmm... don't eat phytoplankton...>   Because this is a 10-gallon tank I'm concerned about waste in the tank <Me too... very easy to pollute> so I currently have rigged a plastic cereal container cut to a depth of 5 inches with suction cups that I place the coral in (keeping all in the tank-nothing exits the water) and then attach the container to the inside of the tank glass so the edge of the container is just above the tank water level.  Then I feed them inside the container.  My confusion comes in with all the different things I've read.  I see feeding requirements varying anywhere between twice daily to once weekly. <Mmm, 2-3 times/week is likely about right... can get by on once> Based on what I read I also thought they ate pretty fast. <Not really... once each polyp is open... a few tens of minutes likely>   A really helpful site with pictures was at http://www.melevsreef.com/suncoral.html.   <Thank you for this> But he said his corals ate a cube of food in 10 minutes and he feeds them once a week.  Another site mentioned something about 'slimed the food so they could eat'.  And most everything I read gave the impression that these guys eat fairly fast.  So until yesterday I've been letting them sit there for 30 minutes, didn't think they were eating and then put them back in the tank; <Mmm... you will/would actually witness the feeding...> thinking they might still be getting adjusted and wouldn't eat.  After seeing that bit about slime, I watched them more closely last night.  They were in the container last night from lights out at 6:30 to 9:00 p.m. and they were still eating.  These guys are super slow eaters. Is that normal? <Depending on "circumstances", yes> I did notice that the water around them seemed to change and food seemed to float around them.  I previously thought it was something in the food I mixed up that caused the sliminess and that I was polluting the water around them.  So consequently I was using a turkey baster to blow it off them. (Duh)  What exactly is their feeding process? <Polypoid... filter out suspended zooplankters mostly> How does this slime aid them in eating? <Helps them to glom onto with their tentacles> Around the middle of their feeding time I begin stirring up the food that has settled on the container bottom and siphon some of it out with a turkey baster, replacing lost water with water from the tank.  This stirred food gets circulated around the colony and trapped within so they continue feeding.  I notice that they swell up a lot like a balloon being blown up.  Do you know why that is?   <Activity... food stimulation> Is this normal as well? <Yes> Especially after feeding and they're placed back on the substrate.  I have not yet seen their polyps fully extended, just little bits here and there poking out.  I'm also concerned about this nightly moving them about. <Not to be>   Once I know they're eating well and seem to be settled in I would like to try using the 'hat' method for feeding.  Do you think that might cause a nutrient issue in my small tank? <Oh yes. Easily> A staff person at the LFS said he has Sun Coral in a 3-1/2 gallon and that I'm too paranoid. <... I disagree> That I should use a product by Seachem in a filter bag that absorbs nutrients from the water, which will turn to brown (possibly Purigen).  The product is then soaked in bleach for cleaning and then soaked in Seachem Prime to remove the chlorine.  Do you recommend that? <Is worth trying here>    Or am I right at being concerned about excess nutrients in the tank? <Yes> My only other tank inhabitants are a cleaner shrimp L. amboinensis, and typical clean up crew.  I'm still considering what fish to get and I'm considering a Cardinalfish, either Pajama or Orange striped, and maybe a blenny. I'm still researching.  Your advice on this would be very welcome. <Is posted... this tank is too small for any but a very small species that doesn't move around much>   The Yellow Clown Goby I had even though I upped his feeding to hourly and he was eating kept losing weight. <Gobiodon are SPS, mainly Acropora spp. obligate corallivores...> I had a lot of copepods and he was snacking on them too, but he didn't make it.  So as much as I'd love to have a clown goby I'm afraid to try again.    <Not suitable here...> Today I went to the LFS to see if I could find a small piece of live rock I could use to make a longer ledge over the sun coral (although they don't seem to be bothered by the lighting- 40W PC 50/50)  I did find the perfect size rock for that, but also found a small rock with soft coral on it at the bottom of the bin and purchased both for $3.  The coral was laying/flopped on its side.  I set up a 1-1/2 gallon tank with some PVC pipe and egg crate shelf to place them on and used a mix of water from my 10-gallon tank and premixed change water.  I placed the rocks in there. no, I did not acclimate the coral. started the nano filter put in some Live Farms BioPlankton and put a 13W 50/50 light over the tank.  Within a minute they both raised up.  Is this Capnella? <Might well be>   Is this (hopefully) a photosynthetic coral? <Is>     I also had them place on hold green star polyps and eventually plan to get some zoanthids.  If it is Capnella, is it a peaceful type?  For a small tank I'd prefer not to have WWIII in there.   <Is peaceful enough... given care in assembling small colonies, good husbandry... you should be fine here> Thank you again for all your help. Regards,  Debra P. <Thank you for sharing your adventure, odyssey. Bob Fenner>

Feed me Seymore: Starving Tubastraea   12/16/06 Hi guys and gals! <Hello there Lisa, Mich here.> Once again, thank you for taking the time to review and respond to my question.  I always appreciate it. <You are quite welcome.  The pleasure is mine.> I've had this coral for about a month now.  I was told it was a fire coral.   <Mmm, nope.> But it doesn't look like any of the fire corals I've seen, and it doesn't seem to sting. <Mmm, because it's not.> I'm also not sure it's doing well.   <Doesn't look real happy.> It doesn't seem to change much but I've noticed one of the corals seems to be receding.   <Yes, that appears to be the case.> Since I can't really identify it, I'm not sure of it's flow, lighting and feeding needs. <Best to educate yourself before assuming responsibility for any living creature.>   I'm hoping you experts will know and will tell me what I need to do. <This is a coral in the genus Tubastraea, commonly called a sun coral.  It is non-photosynthetic, meaning that it cannot get any of its' energy requirements from the sun or artificial lighting.  Kind of ironic that it is called a sun coral.  It must be feed regularly by it's caretaker.  Mysid shrimp soaked in a vitamin supplement such as Selcon would be ideal.  The feeding should be done after the tank lights go off.  It may take several days of attempted feedings before the polyps open, especially in this situation where there is this much tissue recession.  Eventually it will automatically extend its' polyps when the lights go out in anticipation of its' next meal.  It should be placed in an area where it receives good water flow.  It can be placed in a well lit area, but doesn't need to be as long as the water flow is   decent.  It is a beautiful coral, but will need some dedication on your part to bring it back to health. Thanks, <You're welcome. -Mich> Lisa

Re: Feed me Seymore: Starving Tubastraea   12/16/06 Hi again THANK YOU SO MUCH for your reply. <Hello Lisa, Mich here again.  You are quite welcome.> If this coral does not depend on the light, I assume it's location in the tank (currently high up nearer to the light) is <not?> as important? <This coral will not benefit or be harmed by any light it receives.  It does require good water movement.> Can this coral be placed on the substrate?   <Certainly.> Do I need to use a dome to feed it? <No.  Turn off you circulation and use a turkey baster to gently blow the Mysid over the polyps, with time, the polyps will open and a Pavlovian conditioned response should develop, especially if you do this consistently after lights go out.>     Thanks again, <Welcome -Mich> Lisa Your edification:   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm

Re: Feed me Seymore: Starving Tubastraea   12/17/06 Thanks Mich. <You are very welcome.> While the lights were out, I relocated the colony <Tubastraea / sun polyp> to a less intensely lighted area and offered it some smashed Mysid in Selcon.  Just a test of course, night is optimum.  Polyps did open!   <Yay!  This is terrific news.> We'll do as instructed. <Excellent.> With appreciation, <Thank you for the follow up.  -Mich> Lisa

Double Tubastrea feeding  - 5/19/2006 Hello, I did a lot of search, but couldn't find information on how to feed big Tubastrea (it doesn't fit 2L bottle hut), two colonies together, connected by live tissue, cupped shape, and it tends to become a ball shape. Image attached, more on http://community.webshots.com/album/550490835hrPkpG (to save your bandwidth). <Thank you for this... and does appear to be a nice, healthy colony> Most of polyps are not oriented up - to feed individually, and food just slides down to the bottom. 1 gal bottle "hut" could work if the colony was flat, placed on the sand, so food will not flow out from the bottom part of the hut. Placing bottom polyps facing the sand will cause their death (starvation or suffocation). <Likely so in time> And how to remove excess of food after feeding is finished - floating particles and some excess are always left. Too much for my nano-tank to handle. <Bingo> Tried to remove and feed Tubastrea in separate bowl, very time consuming and I think that exposing coral to the air when returning in the tank from the food saturated water will do no good in the long term. <Agreed> Now Tubastrea is in separate pico-tank permanently, with few partial water changes after each feeding (again, partial because of possible air exposure). Still, it's very annoying for both - coral and me. <... perhaps a larger system?> I asked on forums about dividing colonies and did a web search - without success. Now even dividing will not help - both parts tend to become of ball shape, with a lot of polyps facing sideways and down. Can you advice some approach in solving this problem? Thanks, Elena. P.S. I have a nice red Bryozoan - can I send it's picture for your Bryozoan page, may be you'll post some info on them? <Certainly, thank you for this/these> <I would support this piece on a section of cut PVC pipe of sufficient height, feed it as you state by covering, introducing foods during the early evening (when the polyps will open and you can be there to remove the cover afterwards...). In the long-er term, a larger, perhaps more specialized setting (large refugium) for this Dendrophylliid... Bob Fenner>

Feeding Sun coral  3/20/06 Hello, <Hello!>   I bought some Cyclops for this awesome looking coral!!! When they open up should I blow  a puff of this food with my turkey blaster on top of the coral? Or do they get enough food in the water with the DT I'm feeding my clam, or should I target feed? <I would absolutely target feed this coral.  Your method of using a turkey baster is what I use and seems to work pretty well.  A mix of DT's and Cyclop-eeze should be enough to feed this critter, however you could also make you own feed mash of fresh or frozen chopped up in a blender.  This may be better for you and cheaper in the long run.>   Thanx for your time!!! <No problem.  Enjoy and have fun, Jen S.>

Tubastrea on Oyster  12/12/05 Howdy, <Hello Mike> I purchased a Tubastrea Sun Coral a few weeks ago after doing some  research about it.  I put it in the QT, and began to feed it.  It  opened up to eat after almost no effort.  Then, much to my chagrin, the  rock it was on also opened up.  It appears the rock is a kind of  bivalve resembling the Honeycomb Oysters on page 225 of your "Reef  Invertebrates", book. So, how difficult to keep are these oysters?  Do you have any tips for   keeping it healthy? <Mike, oysters do rather poorly in reef tanks as they are filter feeders and require food on a daily basis.  Here is a link with more info for you.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bivalvia.htm>     Also, I have an 11 day vacation in one month,  can the Tubastrea go for 11 days without direct feeding? <I think that would be pushing it, I wouldn't.  I've heard of people keeping them for over a year feeding DT's Live Phytoplankton two or three times a week.><<Really? RMF>> The procedure to  feed is so complex, after all you've got to spray with juice, wait 10 minutes to  open, feed each polyp, don't overfeed.  I think my friends are very lazy,  and I want them to do as little as possible to my fish tanks. <Mike, I think you will just have to find a good nanny. I'm posting a link on Sun Corals, FAQ's on feeding etc that you may find helpful.  http://www.google.com/custom?q=Sun+Coral&sa=Google+Search&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com> Thanks, <You're welcome and Happy Holidays to you.  James (Salty Dog)> Mike

Feeding Tubastrea Sun Coral Do you have any tips on feeding a sun coral (Tubastrea)?   I can't seem to get the polyps to extend so I can feed it. Thanks, Alan <much has been written on this subject abroad on the 'Net. I also have a section in my book (Coral Propagation) for feeding Tubastrea with a slurry in a basin. For starters, train the polyps to open by simply putting a little bit of meaty juice (tablespoon) from thawed frozen food (Mysis shrimp) into the tank at the same time every night. Do this for a week or two until the animals is trained to open and wait at that time. Then introduce meaty fare (yes... Mysis is a great start). Target feed with a saltwater slurry... or put the coral in a floating cup several times weekly and concentrate the food (to prevent overfeeding the tank) Best regards, Anthony Calfo>

Sun Polyps Hi Anthony.  <hello, dear> Just wanted to say that I love your book. I wish it would have come out before I set up my tank.  <thank you... do share you knowledge with others as always> I really like all the aquascaping ideas. I'm sure my husband is going to hate them, well at least the tanks that follow! So my question is about my sun polyps.  <I assume that we are talking about Tubastrea and not the zoantharian, Protopalythoa. Both called sun polyps> I can't get them to grab any food. I've tried your idea of feeding them in a small container. I take a turkey baster and create some water movement, still no pretty flower polyps come out. How long should I keep trying this before I give up?  <never give up... its just that so many are so starved for so long on import that they take weeks of daily stimulation before they open again. Save some money on food and simply squeeze/crush a krill or shrimp head (seriously) in the feeding bowl every night at the same time. Do be VERY consistent with this. These corals have demonstrated a clear response to punctual feeding cycles. I suspect yours will open within two weeks. Do follow up to tell us if it does not> Could MH lighting hurt this little guy in the long run?  <absolutely not. Light has nothing to do with their health. A number of them do occur in full sun... they simply cannot compete with nuisance algae very well... hence why so many live under overhands> The coral still looks healthy. The polyps retracted look full. They don't look caved in like at some of the pet shops around here. I've only have them for about a week.  <have patience... you will have great fun with this beauty in the future. After it comes around... start soaking the food in Selcon or some other like HUFA rich/fatty supplement for health vigor and spawning. Also, pursue the information from Joe Yaillo (NY) in the bibliography of my book. He wrote an outstanding article on breeding the orange sun coral> Enlighten me! <enlighten you...hmmmm: Confucius say... man who stands on toilet is high on pot> Thanks Lots!-Becky <my pleasure. Anthony Calfo>

Feeding Tubastrea sun coral 3/11/04 Hi, how often do I have to feed the Sun Coral (Tubastrea)? And, what types of food are best? Cyclop-eeze? Thanks, Adam <Cyclop-eeze is an excellent food, but cannot be used alone like any whole food (limited in various nutrients/vitamins). Offer your Tubastrea a variety of 4-6 meaty foods of marine origin (mysids, Pacifica plankton, minced krill, etc) several times weekly. And be sure to feed each polyp... they are individuals and not colonial. There are many interesting feeding tricks for Tubastrea (feeding hats, removal to feeding cups for slurries, etc). This coral is best kept in a species tank... they are too hard to feed in a typical reef tank of zooxanthellate corals without ruining water quality or starving the sun coral. This coral has been spawned many times in captivity. Do research more on the subject. Kindly, Anthony> Tubastrea Food I have had a Tubastrea, (orange cup) for about a year now. It has slowly died off from lack of food on my part. I'm not only afraid to pollute the tank with daily 'injections', but it's really no easy task to get to it. I am on a crusade now however to save it. First of all, how hard should the water flow be for this guy? <Medium currents should be fine. If you would like me to try to be more specific, around 3" of water should pass by the coral in a time frame of 1 second, Meaning that that water would travel 3" every second.> I do have a powerhead about 2 feet away from it, so that the water just sort of flows over it.  Does it need a strong current? <Strong current isn't needed.> Next, what is the best food to feed it,  Phytoplex Phytoplankton,  or, could I pulverize some frozen food and add Reef Plus with vitamins and amino acids, by Seachem? <The Tubastrea is not a herbivore, therefore phytoplankton based foods would not benefit the coral very much. I would recommend you feed it brine shrimp, shrimp, diced fish, and squid 3x weekly. Remember to feed each polyp rather than one or two individuals. You may want to look into creating a feeding cap. This can be made by cutting a 2L soda bottle in half (keep the side with the cap). You would want to first drill a small hole in the cap. Once the hole is drilled, you may take a few feet of tubing and stick one end of the tubing through the hole you have drilled. Now, you will see half of the 2L bottle and some tubing coming out of the cap. On the end of the tubing, you may want to have a syringe attached. Once the syringe is attached, you're done. You can then place this "Feeding cap" over the Tubastrea. Then, suck some DT's live phytoplankton or any other foods in the syringe and inject it into the tubing (which is connected into the bottle). The food will then be injected into the bottle for the Tubastrea to feed on. As I stated above, be sure to also try to inject some meaty foods into the mouths of the Tubastrea. If you need any further instructions on how to make this feeding cap, please do not hesitate to email one of us back.> As always, it's a pleasure to chat with all of you at WWM! I really enjoy it! <Thanks! Take Care, Graham Stephan.> Pam

Re: Tubastrea food Sounds like a great idea, but when you say DT's live phytoplankton, is that the same as  Phytoplex Phytoplankton?? <No. DT's phytoplankton is live phytoplankton, unlike Phytoplex. Phytoplex is dead phytoplankton which won't benefit the coral very much.> Just want to be sure I order the right product! thank you <No problem!> Pam Take Care, Graham Stephan 

Re: Tubastrea food Ahhhhh, I see. Okay, one more thing about these phytoplankton. You say that Tubastrea are NOT plant eaters. But, phytoplankton are microscopic plants that live in the ocean,.. can you explain this? <Earlier I stated that phytoplankton wouldn't benefit the coral that much. I then used phytoplankton as an example for what you could inject into the feeding cap. Phytoplankton is often used to feed some species of non photosynthesis gorgonians, tunicates, or sponges, which is why I used it as an example. In the same sentence I also implied that you could also inject other types of foods into the feeding cap. I was trying to use phytoplankton of just an example of what you can inject into the "feeding chamber," rather than what you should feed as the corals food source. I apologize if I was unclear and my message sounded misleading, but was not my intention. I hope this helps! If you have any further questions please do not hesitate to email one of us back.> Graham Stephan WWM Crew Thanks, Pam

Question about sun polyps Hi << Hi. >> I searched your faq to see if anyone else had asked this but couldn't find what I need to know.  I did get lots of knowledge about the sun polyps, at least enough to know the guy at the fish store lied when he said they were for beginners. I have two of them.  I was going to put them in a tiny cube tank by themselves, but I'm having problems setting that tank up so they are now in my Nano cube with my other 3 corals and 4 fish.  I was reading that they like current, so I placed one near the water return intake and one in the center of the tank in kind of a little cave-like area.  They poof up at night and wiggled a lot the first couple days but didn't open with flowers.  I tried feeding lots and now the one in the center of the tank opens completely late afternoon after I turn off the tank light for the night.  That one is peachy color.  The other one is a darker red-orange and while it poofs way up and wiggles, only one or two of the little "hands" come out.    Does this mean it is not feeding? << I think the key to sun polyps is feeding.  I live close to the "The Sun Polyp Goddess" and I've seen her tanks many times.  She feeds them directly with like an eye dropper twice a day.  Usually after feeding the rest of the tank, which get the polyps in a feeding state as they smell food.  Then she carefully drops food onto each individual polyp.  Yes time consuming. >>  Why would one open and not the other? Is the current too strong for the one that won't open (the red-orange one) and should I move it closer to my other coral. << Well the color difference is probably a lighting difference.  The water flow idea is that these polyps need food.  So they need current to bring them food.  However, they can grow just fine in caves without any current, as long as you feed them.  So the current is only part of the issue, does that make sense? >>   These are my favorite corals in the tank and I want to keep my little pets alive and happy.  If I can get the little cube tank going is that a good place for them to be? << Sure, they do fine anywhere, as long as they get attention. >> They would be by themselves and I could feed them daily.  Right now I'm trying to feed them every other day. << Yep just keep feeding them. >> Thanks for any help. Alexandra <<  Blundell  >> Feeding Tubastraea Good morning, <Good evening Alex> I got one of these corals and I was wondering, I'm feeding it out side of the tank in a plastic cup. How long should it be in that cup, he feeds really slow??? <I would really be concerned about taking him out of the tank to feed him. If nothing else after an amount of time you would get temperature fluctuation.> I fed him yesterday for the first time and he was still eating after 20 min, then I put him in the tank with a feeding hat (cool idea I got from your web site)<Good to know it helped.> I didn't want my fish to eat his food, 4 hrs later he had finished. I do not know how long should he be out from the tank. I have him in side the tank under some live rock. He has some light but not to much. Does he need to be in total darkness??? <It does not need to be in darkness or sunlight, since it's non-photosynthetic.  It really wouldn't respond any different to either situation. I have mine located at the front of the tank so I can check for polyp extension. Good luck, MacL> Thanks

Tubastraea coral, again. Hello again, <Hi again Alex> I'm sorry, but I'm new on this coral. <Not a problem that's what I'm here for.> When you meant polyp extension that means they only open when there hungry???<I generally feed to get the polyp extensions and yes when I see polyp extension on mine I try to feed it. It responds then when I can see it. And I know it gets all the food. I also try to feed each polyp individually.>  And how many times do you feed yours a week???  <Probably 5 times a week.>  Thank you so much. <I hope I have helped you with this.  I'd like to recommend Anthony Calfo's Coral Reef Propagation book and Eric Borneman's Aquarium Corals. They are such amazing reference books.>

Tubastraea Or Sun Corals Hello, <Hi Alex, MacL here>   I wanted to buy the beautiful Tubastraea coral!!! But I was reading that they are very hard to feed. <They do need consistent feeding. But I wouldn't call them very hard to feed. Its just important that you feed every single polyp.> If I should get one, what would be the best way to feed them???  <There are wonderful directions for a feeding cap http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corlfdgfaq3.htm, I think you will find this cap very useful to feed hard to feed creatures like the sun corals.> Thanks  

Tubastrea Feeding Tips  hey guys,  <Hi! Ryan with you today>  Thanks for all the help in the past it's helped myself and many others out tremendously. <Glad to hear it> Unfortunately I'm going to have to bug you again. <Why I'm here> I have some orange cup corals of the non photosynthetic kind. <Gotcha> There are a couple different variations of the species so I'll just give you the name I've been using for ID. <My advise when it comes to the species names of lower inverts is to take all with a grain of salt...> It's a Tubastrea coccina that is an LPS coral my problem is I don't know what to feed it. I've been using invertebrate foods such as PhytoPlex, ChromaPlex, and Zooplex on varying cycles but it doesn't seem to be keeping them in good health. <All bottled supplements with little benefits- You'll need to get some frozen high quality foods, as well as some decent coral food like Coral Heaven or Cyclop-eeze. These guys are quite the feeders- They'll require feeding every other day to flourish> I have two of these corals and they're mounted under a ledge in my aquarium just like in nature. <Feed them Mysis shrimp with tweezers> I've read that you need to target feed these types of corals, but I've also read that you don't and if you do what can I feed them? <See above> I've also tried feeding my fish at night when its polyps star to emerge so it can catch some of the fishes food but that I don't think is working too well either. <Nope, you'll need to target feed them. If you cut the top off a 2-liter soda bottle, you can put this around your polyps and then use a feeding syringe to really give them a decent chance at eating> I really don't want to lose this coral so I'd appreciate any info you have on them. I also seem to be having a micro bubble problem in my tank. I have a CPR overflow box that drains the water to my refugium/sump. Problem is it keeps blowing tiny bubbles down into my sump and creating a really annoying salt creep problem all around the top where the big bubbles pop and slash and such. Any simple remedies like egg crate on the surface of the water? <Sometimes a piece of bridal veil netting somewhere in the line to the sump can help- Really it's just fine tuning. Tinker, tinker my friend. Have a good one, Ryan> I don't know. Please help out. Chris aka fishtank

Feeding sun polyps Hope you guys and girls get this, having some problems getting through to you. I bought a sun polyp from my LFS, they forgot to tell me how difficult feeding this beautiful invert is (should have done some research). What I did was cut the bottom out of a margarine tub and when he comes out (usually 30 minutes after lights out) I place the tub over the animal and squirt zoo plankton inside the tub and every polyp eats. << Good idea. >> I was worried about too many nutrients flooding the entire tank, but this works great for me and the sun polyp. This has got to be one of the most beautiful inverts that I have seen. I thought you might want to pass this on to others and it could help with the flooding of food while feeding these creatures. << Will share this info, thanks. >> Thanks Jerry S. <<  Blundell  >>

Tubastrea sun polyp feeding/dying 11/28/04 My little sun polyps are coming out to feed easily now, but the pale orange one does better than the red-orange one. The area around the red-orange one is turning white (with two of the little polyps completely gone... <clearly sounds like those polyps are starving... need more food or the right kind/size of food. Do try/use Cyclop-eeze as a primary staple... really outstanding for these corals> that was an area pushed up against the sand where they could not feed), <move the coral my friend or make a feeding hat (do a keyword search for "Tubastrea feeding hat")> but I am concerned about the rest of the polyps because many of them seem to have this white (it's hard) stuff around them. Is the entire coral dying?   <the white is starving polyps/bleached> If so, what did I do wrong? <you can save these polyps in mere months with resumed feeding> Alexandra

Re: question about sun polyp Thank you so much for your help with my little sun polyps. <Anthony is out...> I have moved them to a little cube tank by themselves and am feeding them with the filter off.   <Good> I have one more question if you don't mind. I am feeding them a mixture of frozen Cyclop-eeze mixed with phytoplankton and they seem to love it.  I am using an eye dropper and squirting it right on top of each polyp.   <Okay> How often should I feed them since they were starving and want to save them? <About every other day is fine. This predaceous coral does not need that much actual food, and it's best to be on guard re the possibility of the ill-effects of overfeeding. Bob Fenner> Thanks Alexandra

Feeding Turbinaria Dear Crew < Hi > I have had a Turbinaria in my tank for some time now (12 weeks). In all this time its polyps are just coming out but never fully. I have a calcium reactor and my water parameters are as follows pH 8.4 mg 1100 Calcium 440 phosphates 0.08 hardness 12 DKH Lighting 3 60W fluorescents 1 actinic blue (60W) 1 T5 lamp (80W) on for 12 hours The coral is placed 6ins from the top in medium flow. I have started to offer meat juice and phyto to this coral at lights out on a daily basis to no avail. The polyps remain retracted. Before this I was offering zooplankton and phyto twice a week. Any ideas as to what maybe going wrong? Could the coral be laying down deposits and not ready for feeding??  < Possible. I almost wonder if it would do even better tucked away down lower under a ledge. I know that the "sun polyp goddess" uses a long straw to feed her Turbinaria frozen brine shrimp. Maybe try that. Otherwise, keep good water chemistry and wait it out. > PS I regularly dose daily with iodine and strontium too.  Any help greatly appreciated. < Blundell >

Feeding Turbinaria continued Thanks for the info I have moved the coral to midway down my tank, still in medium flow over a branch rock overhang. I am keeping my calcium at a constant 440ppm with Kalkwasser additions to see if that will coax the polyps out to feed. Not to question you chaps but the coral is a Turbinaria sp, not Tubastrea the non photosynthetic species I have.  < Very similar requirements and feeding for these corals. I think the lower light, overhang, with food is my advise. >  I believe Turbinaria is a wide ranging photosynthetic species, which tolerates a wide range of spectrums.  < Yes it does. I think (and I could certainly be wrong) that it will be more likely to actively feed if it can't get all its energy needs from light. >  Does the polyp extension need to be a common feature with this coral day to day?  < Surprisingly this coral will open for a few days, then stay closed up for a few days. I don't really understand that. >  I will keep you posted on events. I am trying feeding during the day, at lights out and just before lights out. Any further info appreciated  < Well here is my other thought. I wouldn't worry about it. If it doesn't open up, oh well. I think it can and will do fine with healthy water regardless of its amount of feeding. > < Blundell > 

Re: Turbinaria peltata Dear Bob, Thanks for the reply. I believe we have some confusion. I constantly have to add buffer to maintain my tank at the normal to high level as per my Red Sea Test Kit. This kit only gives a general low/normal/high coloration scale. No numerical values are given. I try to keep it at the high normal to low high reading. According to my LFS, this is about 10/12 DKH. My thoughts were as follows. Three things to affect the corals' current condition. Food - Since I am feeding a mixture of products at three to four times per week and it readily accepts whatever I feed it, I have eliminated this as the causation. More on this below. Lighting - I only had 100 watts of light previously. My feeling was that maybe this may be the reason for the receding tissue. I had wanted to upgrade my lighting, so I purchased a 260 watt Coralife unit.  <This by itself will "do it"... burn the specimen as you sent the pic> Water Flow - I only have the Emperor 400 on this half of the tank. It produces a slight waving of the polyps. I have a HOT Magnum on the other end of the tank also. It has the swivel head on the exit and I switch it from one side to the other at least two/three times per day to get some random turbulence. I was thinking of adding another power head to the lower portion of the tank on this side also. However, I want to see if the lights make an improvement. Changing too many things at one time increases the number of variables. No way of knowing what actually helped. <I agree> More questions on Coral Feeding: After months of reading WetWebMedia, CMA and Reef Invertebrates, I have some questions of coral feeding. Please excuse me if I missed it somewhere. <Sure> On plating types of Corals such as this T. peltata that have numerous polyps, does each and every polyp have to receive nutrition in order to survive, or is it simply a collection point? <The latter> For example, if one area of the coral receives more nutrition because of flow, location of polyps, will the polyps that receive the most nutrition feed the entire colony and will the area that does not receive as much food gradually recede away or not plate in that general area. For example, the area that the tissue is receding is on the back side of the coral and it is difficult to target feed. I pose the same question regarding the LPS corals such as the Mussidae corals. Will the polyps that do not receive as much nutrition die in that general area, or will the polyps that receive the most nutrition support the entire colony. Thanks, Dean <Some Dendrophylliids (e.g. Tubastrea) need to have each polyp fed, others share... the mussids inclusive. Bob Fenner>  

Turbinaria peltata Follow-up Dear Bob and Crew, <Dean> I want to update you on the problem I was having with my Turbinaria peltata.  I am happy to report that the tissue has stopped receding.  It appears that the coral is starting to take back some of the territory that it lost.  There was some apparent light shock after upgrading of my lighting.  But I believe that the upgrade was a positive move.  I went from 100 watts to 260 watts. <!> Also, I have increased the number of times per week that I target feed this coral. I am now feeding this coral at least three times per week.  Some weeks it gets target fed four times per week.  I believe all is good now. <Good> I do have some additional of questions. I had a coral put on hold for me at the LFS.  I was told by the assistant, who seems to be very knowledgeable, that it was a  Yellow Scroll Coral AKA Turbinaria reniformis.  After some research on your site, I came to the same conclusion.  I also decided that with my level of experience, and the steadily improving conditions of my tank, this was a coral I could keep in my system.  However, I found some additional material on your site that make me believe this identification my not be correct.  I was reviewing the section on "The Best Corals for Your Reef System" and ran across the section on Montipora Corals.  Specifically the section of pictures "More Montiporas in Aquariums"  I now believe what I have is a Montipora.  Could you please review the attached picture and give me your opinion. <This is Turbinaria... not an Acroporid> I have a mushroom in my tank that has grown to the point that it is touching my brain coral. <Best to separate... ASAP> The brain is losing this battle.  My question is, can I take a pair of scissors and trim off the offending edge of the mushroom without hurting the mushroom.   <Best to break it off and move, if you can't just re-arrange the rock it is attached to... or move the Brain...> It will be about one inch x 1/4" section that will be removed. And, if I cut this section up into smaller pieces, will these pieces grow into another mushroom. I dose my tank every evening with Kalk for my make-up water.  My drip mechanism leaves about 1 1/2" of fluid in the bottom of the container. Does this material need to be discarded every time or can I add a little less Kalk and just add more water. <Eventually has to be tossed, but not every time> Thanks for your kind assistance and happy reefing. Dean <Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Tubastrea feeding plan 4 April 2005 Hello Crew,  <Hi Alex, MacL here with you tonight.> I have a feeding plan that I would like to try on my sun polyp coral! And I want you guys to tall me if It's a good one. I would like to try coral vital and Cyclop-eeze mixed together with tank water, when the polyps open, with a turkey blaster blow a puff of food into a feeder hat. What do you guys think?  <I think it sounds really nice. I use DT's and Cyclop-eeze the exact same way.> 

Tubastraea Feeding follow-up 7 April 2005 Hello one more time MacL <Hey!>   How do I know when my coral has finished eating? (I know kind of a silly question). Not silly whatsoever, I generally judge it done when all the food disappears in the cap but I have a friend who leaves him on for an hour and no longer. His corals are thriving as well. I think you can safely judge by how fast they eat and by how they respond.> But I want to do this right. Thanks again!!!