Algae growth on Dendro 6-15-2009 Hello. I have a beautiful Dendro <... the stony coral Dendrophyllia...> that I bought a few months ago. I bought one head, and 4 baby heads have sprouted since I bought it. It's been doing great and I do feed it once or twice a week. <Mmm, I'd kick this up a bit... See WWM re the family> I just noticed though, some type of dark brown algae growing on the back half of the base of the Dendro. <A bad sign> It seems to be close to the main head, but not growing over it yet. I don't see that algae on any of the surrounding rock or anywhere else in the tank. It looks smooth and almost like a sponge growth. I don't have a picture of the algae, but here is a picture of the Dendro I took a couple months ago. Are Dendros susceptible to algae or some other type of growth? <... just when their health is impaired> Thanks! Pam http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/matsis1234/DendroNewCamera.jpg <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

More info - Algae growth on Dendro 6-15-2009 Hello. Thought I should include a little more info about my set up and tank parameters. I have a large Duncan colony and a Sun Coral, and I do not see the dark brown/black growth on those corals or any other corals in my tank, nor do I see it on any rock. It seems to be isolated to the Dendro. My tank is just over two years old. I can try to get a picture of the algae on the Dendro, but it might be tough because it's on the back half of the coral (base of the coral only, not the heads). My tank set up and parameters are: 53 gallon display with 10 gallon sump / Elos skimmer rated for 150 gallons 10% bi-weekly water changes with Coral Life Salt 150 MH bulb and 4 24w T5 bulbs. Replaced all bulbs about 2 weeks ago, and raised the light fixture an inch or two after changing the bulbs. Salinity 1.025 Temp -79-81 Nitrates: 5-10 Phosphates - Not sure, but I do run Phosban in a Two Little Fishies reactor and changed it out about a month ago <... I wouldn't... again, please follow directions and search, read before writing us... BobF> Alk 7 PH 8.3 lights on / 8.1 lights off Calcium 350 Mag 1170 Algae growth on Dendro - Not Algae after all. 6-15-2009 Thanks Bob. I will increase the feedings. I pulled out the Dendro last night and put it in a little bowl of tank water, to try and see if I could scrape off the algae. <I would not do this> I found that it's not algae at all. It's the skeleton turning black. The heads look totally healthy, and it eats really well when I feed it, and captures some food on its own. Is the black skeleton a sign of disease, or a sign of starvation? <Perhaps neither... maybe allelopathy, losing to one of the other species/Cnidarians... perhaps just a "blem"... of transient nature... Do search, read re the former on WWM> Could underfeeding it cause this? Should I be feeding it every day or every other day instead of 1-2 times a week? <Yes... t'were it me... again... just read re the family...> I did read through the Dendro FAQ on WWM, and didn't find anything that appeared to be related. <Oh...> Thanks! Pam <Perhaps a bit of iodine/ide, time going by... B> Re: Algae growth on Dendro - Not Algae after all. Nor reading...  5/16/09 Thanks B. I'll take your suggestions and research allelopathy. I have mostly LPS in my tank so I thought I was pretty safe from allelopathy.... <... indeed, NOT immune> I have a good sized Frogspawn, Hammer, <Very stinging... near and distal> Duncan, Sun Coral, Small Acan. No SPS, and only one small colony of zoo's <Can be very toxic...> and nothing else for softies. The Dendro was close the sun coral and about 5" from the Frogspawn. I moved it to the far side of the tank last night, away from the Frogspawn. <Good... again... stop writing, start reading in earnest. B> Thanks for the help. Pam

Re: Goniopora Worms. Now Dendrophylliid beh./hlth. 05/27/09
Lynn,
<She's asked that one other of us resp. here>
OK - one last question and I promise I will leave you alone!
<No worries>
I have a beautiful Pagoda Coral. It is one of the corals that I have had the longest and it has thrived in it's current location. All of the polyps (I believe that is what they are called) open daily and are beautiful - deep brown with a green "eye" in the center. Yesterday, one of the polyps did not open and it appears to either be encased in a clear bubble, or have a clear bubble on the side. None the less, it did not open yesterday and has not opened today. Tons of light - good water quality - good calcium level - good water flow. Any ideas what the issue could be?
<Mmm, might have gotten "stung" by something... other animals can release tissues... Or bitten by a fish... or maybe just a good bit of sand/grit got into it. I would not panic. Most likely self-healing. Bob Fenner>
Thanks so much!
Brian

Re: Duncan coral, hlth.  – 4/30/09
Hi there,
<Howsit?>
I wrote a few weeks ago with concerns of a Duncan coral that had fallen on an Echinata and suffered a severe sting. About one quarter of the large colony was necrotic and there was severe tissue recession. I am happy to report that the coral has made a full recovery and has even shown signs of new polyp development. Thanks again!
Tyson
<Yay! Congrats on the recovery and thank you for this update. BobF>

Help broken Dendro – 03/22/09
Hi Crew,
<Hi Rachel, BrianG here,>
I am hoping that you can help. I purchased a "Dendro" <Dendrophyllia californica. I presume> I placed it in my tank, fully opened and is beautiful, felt it was worth every bloody cent that I paid for it,
<They are worth every penny and magnificent looking.>
 however my black clowns were picking at it, so I decided to move it....bad decision on my part, as
when I pulled it from the tank, I went to set it down on the counter to move the rock underneath the "Dendro "and it dropped on the floor, and one side of the large head cracked <Oops!>. Is it doomed, is there anything I can do to help him, beside kick myself?
<Don't kick yourself yet, you should be fine. I cut Dendro's all the time and sometimes cut wrong and slice into the skeleton. They are pretty resilient and usually heal up quite well. Search this site for "Dendrophyllia" for care and feeding suggestions..>
 I took every ounce of me to purchase him, as he was the most I have ever spent on a coral, Please help?
<Good luck with your new coral!!!>
By the way, I love your site....
thanks
Rachel

Tubastrea tissue receding 01/16/09 Hello, I have a Tubastrea coral that I purchased about six weeks ago in my 265 gal. tank. I placed it in an area with dim lighting that I can gain access to for feeding. It is on top of a rock on the floor of my aquarium under a rock ledge (see photo). When I first purchased this coral, the polyps were not extending and so it took several days of blowing Cyclop-eeze over them before they started coming out. <This is normal. Sometimes they take even longer to start feeding in a new tank.> The polyps would extend more and more each day and I took a picture of the coral one night when all of the polyps were extended. Once the polyps started extending completely, I changed the diet to chopped pieces of krill and hand-fed each polyp that I could and squirted Cyclop-eeze on it to feed any polyps I may have missed. I feed every other day. <Good work!> The coral was flourishing. A couple of days ago, I noticed the tissue on one of the tubes seemed to be receding (see photo); I wasn't certain at first, but the next day, the tube was completely hollow. This morning, it looks like the tissue on the tube directly in front of it is starting to recede as well (I haven't had a chance to take a photo of this yet). The yellow blob that you see on the coral is some sort of sponge and it was attached to the coral when I purchased it, but it was more on the side of the coral and has just recently moved to the top. I check the levels of nitrites, nitrates, ammonia, calcium and pH on a regular basis and I add iodine once a week. I have researched your website looking for clues on what could be the reason for this and I see a common theme of possible starvation. I have read on other websites that once the tissue has started to recede in a tube, algae can grow inside and start a chain reaction of recession in the rest of the tubes. I really thought that I was feeding frequently enough. <You are.> Is the solution to this simply more feeding or do you think I have another problem? Is the sponge possibly doing any damage? <Not a sponge... as you note in your follow-up, looks like Wendletrap snail.> Please help, I hate seeing what was once a thriving coral wasting away one tube at a time. Thanks, Susan ---- To Whom It May Concern: I submitted this earlier today and have since then found out that the "sponge" is, in fact, a Wendletrap snail, which I have read is a threat to my Tubastrea. So, I have removed it. Is there anything else I need to do to my coral in addition to physically removing it with tongs? <If the snail is now gone, I think the coral will recover. You might want to increase water flow to the area if possible... to help keep algae from growing (and debris collecting) on the exposed skeleton.> Please help. <Keep up the good work. :-) > Thanks, Susan <De nada, Sara M.>

Duncanopsammia HELP!!   10/9/08
Hi all you geniuses!!
<Mmmm, not I>
I am looking for some insight and after searching endlessly I have, again, found myself at your feet. Ok here it is: I had purchased a Duncanopsammia frag of 2 heads, which within 2 months has turned into 8 heads. Then, like a week ago, the polyps stopped opening up, for no apparent reason. I am sure there IS a reason, but I cant seem to find it. I have a mixed reef,
<Mmm, perhaps this is "it">
with a couple sps frags, and mostly LPS, but nothing else seems to be bothered, everything is opening and extending just fine.
<So... not due to some deficiency, food, water quality-wise>
They did open up for a couple days, but not as large as they have been up until recently. My methods of compassion so to speak have been, moving them higher, moving them lower, moving them into more flow, less flow, shade, no shade, and nothing seems to matter. I did make a slight change in lighting when this started, but I can't tell you if it was before or after the Duncan problem. I have a 2x250 watt HQI with 4x65 watt actinic supp. and I changed the actinics to 50/50 because that was all I had, but then today have changed them back to the old bulbs to see if this made a difference in the Duncanopsammias extensions. But unfortunately, it did not, and they are still shriveled up to a belly button look alike. Any help would be so much appreciated! Oh and I do regular water changes of 10-15% weekly, and 20-15% monthly... Thank you in advance!! Tanya PS please use email XXXX address for replies, I use that one more frequently.
<Most likely is a case of allelopathy if as you state, other Cnidarians appear fine. I would move this colony elsewhere in the short haul, re-acclimate it here if you'd like through the methods mentioned here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Duncanopsammia HELP!! 10/12/08
Hi Bob! I just wanted to say thank you for saving my Duncans! You were right, and I found the culprit. I had the Duncan mini colony about 6 inches away from a colt coral, and it had been there since I got it, and so it didn't dawn on me that it would all of a sudden be attacked, and so when I got your email, I inspected the area and moved the Duncanopsammia to the other side of the tank, it was far left, so I moved it far right. The very next day, it was open.
<Ahh!>
I had also moved a small toadstool closer to it (again, about 6 inches) and that is when it started acting weird, so it could have been either the colt or the stool. In any case, the outcome is great, and your awesome advice worked!! Thanks so much! Tanya
<Welcome my friend. BobF>

Ailing Pagoda and angry Perculas 10/8/08
Hello!
<Hi>
I have a small 8 gallon BioCube at my office with some live rock, mushrooms, anthelia, polyps, and a pagoda cup coral. I have 2 false percula clowns, a neon goby and a yellow watchman goby.
<That is too much life for such a small tank.>
My tank has been up and running for about 1 1/2 years now with all the same fish and corals. Recently, my pH became very low (7.4) despite weekly water changes, and adding buffer. Out of desperation (my first mistake) I purchased a buffering powder that after adding 1/2 of a packet would miraculously adjust my pH to 8.2. Yeah, right. As soon as I added it, my pagoda seemed to shrink before my eyes!
<Probably pH shock.>
It's polyps retracted and it stayed like this for about a week. I was sure I killed it, however it is opening up again although the polyps are smaller? It's just not the same! So my first question is, what did I do and can it be remedied?
<You most likely raised the pH too fast, not much can be done now except maintain good water quality.>
My second problem is related to the percula clowns. They made their home in the pagoda cup and guarded it if I tried to get near it. I removed the pagoda to put it in a 58 gal we have at home in order to try to nurse it along. They are ANGRY!!! The female is attacking other corals in the tank now and is not a happy camper.
<Is looking for a new home.>
I didn't know if I should try to replace the pagoda with another coral in hopes that they might take to it, or if once they have a home they never adapt to another one?
<Can find a new home if they find something to their liking.>
Do I put the pagoda back in the tank and see if it recovers?
<I would leave it in the more stable larger tank.>
Another tidbit... I tested the 8 gal. and figured out the calcium levels were too high which was causing the low pH. I have since gotten the parameters back to normal.
<Good, but the inherent problem of small tanks, parameters can change radically quickly in small water volumes.>
Thanks for your tips!
Wendy
<Welcome>
<Chris>

dying pagoda coral...i don't want to lose it -09/09/08 my pagoda is a dome shape not a cup shape, very green and pretty and i heard domed shaped is rare. <Uh, no, not rare. These animals change shape as they grow. They only start out in the cup shape, then grow out of it.> i have had it 3 years. i noticed it had a dead spot in the middle last week, no big deal happened before and went away...this time, it got bigger. i did a 30% water change, next day added Chemi pure, and i recently replaced an old filter (put old bio media in it and fresh carbon) and replaced a bulb and got a new power head....now its more dead with more holes in the tissue between the polyps. I  tried moving it, damage is still being seen all the polyps open just fine but the green between them is rapidly disappearing don't want to lose this coral, it is my favorite one! <Ok, firstly I need to know your water parameters (temp, salinity, etc.). Without knowing those, the most I can tell you is that this looks like either 1) sediment damage resulting from inadequate water flow, or, 2) it's starving to death (resulting from inadequate feeding)... or both.> i attached a photo of it (taken after lights out) the spots not covered in algae are new and the white spots just appeared today <Yikes... please slow down. Sometimes when our corals get sick we do too much all at once trying to save it and just end up stressing the coral out. Please do write back with your water parameters. In the mean time the only thing I would suggest you do is perhaps increase the water flow over the coral (but not too much). Best, Sara M.>

Re: dying pagoda coral...i don't want to lose it 09/09/08 to be honest i have not done any testing on my water in 2 years, (bad practice, i know, but i have not needed to, even now this is the only coral with a problem, the one SPS i keep is also just fine) aside from checking the salinity when i do a water change. <What is your salinity, temp, pH, alkalinity...? I honestly can't help you much without this info.> what confuses me is i also have a purple cup pagoda living right next to the green and it is just fine. <Hmm... has this purple one been in the tank longer? Perhaps there is some negative interaction going on here.> i have never directly feed it before though i have seen it grab brine shrimp and food pellets. can i squirt some frozen brine on it? <Yes... that might help (do turn off the pumps for a bit while you do this). Just be careful to also keep your water clean. Best, Sara M.> Re: dying pagoda coral...i don't want to lose it 09/10/08 i have had the green for 3 years, the purple for 8 months. i separated them just in case. only a tiny bit of tissue has receded since last night i have no testing supplies... <Not even a hydrometer or refractometer? ...how do you do water changes? I'm sorry to nag, but you're really asking for trouble here. In well established tanks, you probably don't have to measure nitrates/nitrites/etc. But you still need to at least measure salinity, temp, pH, alkalinity and calcium.> but are there any pests or disease that can harm them? anything not related to water conditions? <They are not known to have pest problems. They often suffer from poor water quality, starvation, negative interaction with other corals, etc. Repeating herself, Sara M.> <<Sara... send back to fix English, search... RMF>>

Potential problem with Tigertail cuke, and Dendrophylliid hlth.   2/10/08
Hi crew-
<Jim>
I have a very healthy 75g reef tank with a 20g sump and 10g refugium.
This morning, I noticed something odd - my 6-ish inch long Tigertail cuke was scaling the wall of my aquarium - never seen THAT happen before!
He has been in this system for a few years, and reproduced (by splitting)
once a while ago (I pulled out his buddy).
My wife noticed a white gash or laceration running down his body, at least several inches long.
We did the smart thing and pulled him immediately from the tank.
Suggestions?
<Mmm, isolate... oh, I see below...>
I don't have an isolated system to put him in so that he can heal up.
Am I better off without him in a system this size at any rate?
<Well...>
Should I euthanize him or take him to a LFS?
<The last>
I presume that the one thing I should NOT do is to put him back into my system.
<Not necessarily... life IS risk... some minor sub-risks are to be weighed, chosen...>
All other inhabitants of the system are FINE.
Here is what the system looks like:
http://picasaweb.google.com/javagiant/Reef12808
<Wow, quite a mix... Soft and hard corals, other cnidarians, including an anemone... an apparently healthy powder blue tang...>
While I am writing, I do have a recent addition (the Turbinaria)
<I see this... on the right>
that I could swear is shrinking a little.
Color is great and polyps are well extended.
I did some research, and have begun spot feeding.
Will that do it, or does he need more light?
<May need to be moved further from the actinarian... see WWM re compatibility... Otherwise, just patience>
I have 2 x 175mh and 2 4' actinic VHO tubes running on this system.
Should I move him up, so he gets more light?
<I would not>
I have been keeping him debris free - anything else I should be doing?
many thanks-
Jim Gray
<From the sparkling looks of your system, obvious health of your livestock... Running a public aquarium or helping at an LFS. Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

My Green Pagoda Coral Isn’t “Green” – 07/09/07
I bought a green pagoda from a LFS but it was all cream colored.
<<The “cream” color in not uncommon for this Turbinaria species>>
The salesperson told me the color would come back to green with yellow polyps but it has not. Is there anything I can do to get it to color up or is it lost forever?
<<If this specimen was indeed “green” to begin with, the color change may be due to collection/transport stresses, a reaction to the change in intensity and quality of lighting from its collection point...or just the difference in water chemistry/environmental conditions period. It’s hard to say if the color change is permanent...provide the coral with optimum conditions and time will tell. EricR>>
Thanks.

Black Spot On Sun Coral (Tubastraea), no useful data 6/22/07
Hi. I have a sun coral that I bought approximately 6 weeks ago. Today, I noticed that there is a small (approx 2mm in diameter), circular black spot on one of the larger cups. Otherwise, the coral seems happy and healthy, and none of the other cups (or corals in the tank) appear to be affected. I would be very grateful if you could advise me as to whether this is something to worry about - and, if so, what steps I could take to ameliorate the problem. Thanks very much in advance. Lindsey.
<Mmm, could be of concern... no useful info. re the set-up, maint., water quality tests... you are making sure each polyp is getting fed? Is this specimen near more strongly stinging, more noxiously exudating species? Have you read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrodisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above? Bob Fenner>

Re: Black Spot On Sun Coral (Tubastraea)  6/23/07
Hi Bob: Thank you for your response! My tank is very new (about 3 months) and is 55 gallons. I have a protein skimmer and trickle filtration. My ammonia tests at nil, phosphates undetectable, alkalinity at 12.8 (I know that's on the high end, but my PH is 8.2, so that's not a problem, right?),
<No, not likely>
calcium is 360, salinity at 1.025. There is a frogspawn coral to the right of the sun coral -
<... trouble>
I thought there was enough separation between the two,
<Needs to be a foot or more... and even then, chemically...>
but the affected cup is on the left hand side - which is closest to the frogspawn - and is, as I mentioned, one of the larger cups and would definitely reach in that direction when fully extended so perhaps it has been stung?
<Yes>
I checked again this morning and the spot has not enlarged at all and is still affecting that specific cup only, so I have moved the frogspawn over to the right a little. I do feed each cup at least 5 times a week with Mysis shrimp.
<Good>
The other occupants of the tank (aside from corals) are: 2 anthias, one clown tang (small),
<Needs more room...>
cleaner shrimp, fire shrimp and 2 clowns. If you have any other suggestions I would really appreciate them as I am just starting out in this hobby and I love your site! Thanks again, Lindsey.
<Mmm, do see WWM re the Tubastraea and Euphyllia... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
Bob Fenner>
 

Orange Sun Coral - 03/23/07
Hi!
<<Hello!>>
I recently acquired an orange Sun Coral which the LFS near my home had not been having too much luck with.
<<Not unusual...generally requires special attention/some direct feeding to prosper>>
I placed it in a tunnel out of direct light and offered it food (live baby brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, Microvert, Marine Snow etc.) every evening after the lights were off.
<<The variety of food is good (though feeding well every 2-3 days may be enough), but placing out of direct light is not always necessary.  Tubastrea species are sometimes found on the "lighted" side of the reef (I have two colonies exposed to direct lighting), though Dendrophylliid species are most often in "shaded" positions.  What is most important is that these corals receive very good water flow>>
It did appear to be eating.  Here is my problem and resultant question.  About 3 days ago I noticed that the majority of the polyps had been covered with orange colored "bubbles" causing the Tubastrea to resemble Bubble Coral.
<<Mmm, haven't ever witnessed this...but doesn't sound good to me>>
The few remaining normal appearing polyps traveled off its original rock and have attached themselves to the side of the tunnel.
<<Ahh...what you may have is a Dendrophyllia species and not a Tubastrea species.  In my experience, Tubastrea have connective tissue between the polyps that would prevent individual polyps from "relocating"...Dendrophyllia, again in my experience, does not have this connective tissue and looks like a bunch of polyps "glued" to a rock.  Admittedly these are subjective observations and an examination of the coral's skeleton is likely required for a positive ID>>
What are the "bubbles" on the once beautifully tentacled Sun Coral?
<<Hmm...possibly a bacterial infection or encroachment of Cyanobacteria.  Difficult to say really, but very likely a symptom of its environment.  Or maybe it was just "too far gone" when you acquired it>>
Any assistance/information you can give me will be greatly appreciated as I am truly in a quandary about this.
<<Do ensure the coral is receiving plenty of vigorous water flow.  If this doesn't clear up the "bubbles", you may want to consider a mild iodine dip/bath, but some corals may not respond well to these...do read here and among the associated links:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm>>
Many thanks,
Gigi
<<Happy to share, EricR>>
 

Purple/ blue skeleton (Turbinaria reniformis)  - 04/27/06
Hi Bob/ Staff
I got a huge cup coral today with a purple/ blue skeleton (Turbinaria reniformis).
<... have never seen a Turbinaria with such a color skeleton... are brownish to yellowish with light green highlight. Your might have been dyed>
Info on these babies are pretty scarce/ am suspecting there not to popular. But anyway, It is  producing a huge amount of  slime and the polyps are closed. Why is it producing and excreting such large amounts of slime.
<From handling, being moved, reaction to other cnidarians?>
2nd, The white polyps are closed, do they only open @ certain times?
<Yes... when the animal/colony is established, healthy, feeding. Please see WWM re Dendrophylliids. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for your time.
John

Re: Purple/ blue skeleton (Turbinaria reniformis)  4/27/06
thanks for the reply Bob.
<Bob is at a conference, Jen S. here.>
I must have spoken too soon because the coral opened up beautifully today.
<Wonderful!>
And I was a bit inaccurate with the description of its coloration, its actually a yellowish bluish green. Anyway, I tested Nitrates today and they were about 25 PPM.
<Too high>
Is this a dangerous for the cup coral or my yellow polyps?
<Absolutely.  Do a 20% water change, clean up any detritus, replace filter media, clean skimmer… so on.>
I will look on WWM in the mean time to find ways to lower the nitrates. Thanks again,
<Good deal.  Have a great night, Jen S.>
Mr. John

Re: Purple/ blue skeleton (Turbinaria reniformis)   4/30/06
to Jen S.
I did a big water change and reduced them to about 10 - 15 mg/ l. can I repeat  water changes tomorrow to lower them more? thanks
<I wouldn't change too much too quickly.  Every other day would be good.  Jen S.>
 

Turbinaria "Cup Coral"
Dear Bob:
Happy holidays to you and your family.
<And to you and yours>
I have e-mailed you within the last few months regarding my 92 gallon reef
tank that has had a horrible hair algae problem. You indicated that my tank
was probably "off center" and to be patient, maybe introducing a Lawnmower
Blenny or Tang. I have not introduced any of these new fish yet, but I did
recently convert my sand bed to a deep sand bed (brushed all rock in a
separate container during this process). I also performed about a 25% water
change during this changeover. Everything looks great now, and I hope this
will persist.
<Ah, good>
My question to you now regards my Turbinaria cup coral. During the last few
months when my tank was creating the hair algae disaster, this coral stopped
extending it's polyps. The coral was not dead, as on a couple of occasions
it did spew out some black film. Since I had this coral high up in my VHO
lit tank and did replace my lamps around the time the polyps stopped
extending, I thought it may be unhappy due to the light intensity change
instead of water chemistry.
<Both... perhaps more of the latter>
When I performed by sand bed change a week ago,
I decided to place this coral more in the middle of the tank. However,
still, the polyps do not extend (not even at night).
Since the polyps have now not extended for about 3 months, do you think it
is dead? Do you think there is any hope? The coral has not changed color.
<You will know, by sight, smell if/when this animal has perished... do try feeding it. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm
the FAQs beyond. Bob Fenner>
Thank you.
John Rowe

Re: Turbinaria "Cup Coral"
Thanks, Bob. I should have read your section before e-mailing.
<Do wish there was a scheme for more easily making WWM available, accessible>
I have the Turbinaria peltata coral, and I'll try the feeding recommendation.
I do feed the tank with live phytoplankton, but apparently this is not
enough. Unfortunately, my LFS did not inform me of the need to feed.
<Ah>
Thanks again.
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>
John

Re: help me cup coral  10/3/05
All apologies, this was typed up real fast on my way to our weekend house. I have a 12 gallon Nano cube pushing about 5 watts per gal. Would it be better suited in there? <Be better than where it was.  Problem with keeping SPS's in small systems is that water parameters can change too fast.> When I returned on Sunday, the polyps were closer to coming out. I originally went to the LFS for a Monti cap but was steered toward the cup coral because of the lighting, but we know how that goes. <Your 5 watts/gallon needs to have some actinic light if you don't already have it.  James (Salty Dog)>

Cup coral  10/3/05
It does have actinics. Should I transfer it now while it still isn't open? Or is it too stressful to do that? <Can't get any worse than what it is.  Try it.  Keep in mind that these corals are not the easiest in the world to keep.  Have you been adding iodine, strontium, etc to the tank and doing weekly 10% water changes?  James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Cup coral  10/4/05
I know that now but...yes I keep up w/ the water changes. There isn't anything in that tank but a hammer coral, a few zoo's and a few Ricordea. If I have to I can upgrade the lights to a 96x2 watt. Still not what your suggesting but better. I was told the "watts per gal." rule didn't apply because power compacts were far better than fluorescents just like MH are to PC and thus cannot be compared. <The watts/gallon is a starting point keeping in mind that too much light is certainly not detrimental.  You have to understand also that yes, the PC's have more light output, but the watts/gallon guideline is based on VHO/HQI/MH/PC.  The depth of the tank would be a factor in deciding if more or less light is needed.  James (Salty Dog)>

Turbinaria
Mr. Fenner
My Turbinaria (peltata?) don't open the polyps. After one or two weeks in my aquarium in the upper part under a powerhead the coral don't show signs of stay alive. Do you have some advice? Thanks, Nelson 
<Hmm, a few possibilities here. Please read through our coverage of the family: http://wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm
the associated FAQs page,
The large polyp stony corals, stony corals, and associated FAQs pages... and we'll chat further. Bob Fenner>

Turbinaria problem
I have a cup coral that stated to lose some of its polyps in one area.
In their place is a hole with two slender antennae protruding. It's
happened over the course of a week and started with one and now has 9 or
so missing. Most of the empty holes show antennae. I 've checked at
night with a flashlight but have never seen any worms on the coral
head. Any ideas or suggestions? It's a lovely piece and I don't want
to lose it.
Many thanks-- Dean Decker
<Hmm, you might not have much choice here... does sound like some marauding species of boring (as in drilling, not yawning) of polychaete worm (maybe with some accomplices) have taken up residence in your Dendrophylliid... I would just "hand on and hope" at this point... Very unlikely that a predator (like a Pseudocheilinus sp. Wrasse) would/could clear them out... this or a Stenopid, Palaemonid shrimp might help though... worth a try. Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/bristlewrmfaqs.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/shrimp.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/pseudocheilinus.htm
Bob Fenner>

TURBINARIA DAMAGE???
Hey Bob,
Just purchased a yellow Turbinaria the other day and my wall hammer welcomed it with a long sweeper tentacle. Well a few days later after moving the hammer well out of reach (unbelievable what a reach it has) I am noticing a small grey black decaying patch on my Turbinaria. Question is what to do remove damage via exacto knife or leave it alone??? Thanks again Rob Huss
<Hmm, I would leave this colony be at this point... generally will regenerate. Bob Fenner>

Help - Cup coral
1st of all, this is the best BB I have ever encountered. Your help is priceless. Now that the smooching is over, let me get to the problem at hand. I have a cup coral (Turbinaria peltata...I think...maybe pagoda) I enclosed a picture just in case. I have had it for a year, but recently, it is having troubles. The polyps do not extend at all. It was doing fine under a 55 watt PC. Now, that I have added an additional 55w Actinic, is hasn't opened. I do not recall if the light addition & polyp shyness happened at the same time or not. Regardless, it has been 1-2 months, and still no change. I am afraid that I might lose my favorite coral. I must add, that throughout the 1st year, I did not add a supplement to the tank such as Coralvite, Essential Elements, etc. I merely fed the coral just as I fed my 2 clowns. Nitrates, Nitrites, PH, all good. Calcium a little low. Should I of added Strontium? Please tell me the appropriate manner in which to care for these corals, as I am afraid that I have failed.
<It appears that you doubled your lighting and shocked your coral. This is a very unnatural thing to occur, but you are lucky because Turbinarias are very resilient. Since you only gave general references to water quality, here is what your coral needs; a pH above 8.2, Calcium above 400 ppm, fed 2-3 times per week with something small like Sweetwater Zooplankton or Mysis Shrimp, and it may benefit from some iodine. I do not use or recommend most of the magical elixirs for reef tanks. I follow the Fennerism, if you cannot test for it, do not dose for it. -Steven Pro>

Fading pagoda
I have a yellow pagoda coral, sorry no pic.
<There are two main types of "pagoda" coral: Turbinaria reniformis and t. peltata. T. reniformis is commonly yellow in color, has a thin but dense skeleton, and grows in a turbinate form (whorling plates). T. peltata usually only forms a single cup shape but can also have a few "whorls". The skeleton is thicker than that of the former and has big bushy polyps. T. peltata does not have a yellow color morph, so if you have this species, it's most definitely dyed.>
I have a it about a week or so. all my levels are right where there supposed to be. its at mid tank in my  55g.
I have a HQ1 150Wx1 MH. its seems to be fading fast on one side of it. doesn't seem to be dyed, the other side of it
is keeping its vivid color.
<Sounds like the halide is bleaching it. Put it off to the side in low, indirect light for now until it regains it's color. Only then should you try to begin the slow process of acclimating it to your lighting>
it does have die off on the outer edges of it though, from when I bought it.
any info would be great on what you  would try in this situation.
<Eh, I wouldn't worry about the dead spots unless some algae got a foothold and started encroaching on the living tissue. Good luck!  -Kevin- >
                                    Thanks,
                                                IRV

Turbinaria care 9/15/04
Hi recently purchased a Turbinaria peltata, turban, platter saucer coral, it was in good shape 3 days ago, now, right in the middle it looks to be dying it has a brown spot with stringy stuff coming out,
<could just be digestion... no worries just yet>
what can I do for it my water is in good shape, everything except my nitrates are at 20 which I have done a  water change 25 percent I will test water again, is there anything I can dip the coral in to help it, I am running power compacts, so I don't think this is a problem, my tank has been up and going for months now, everything else fish and other corals are ok, no corals close to it WHERE SHOULD I PLACE THIS CORAL RIGHT NOW IT IS SITTING ON A ROCK IS THIS OK??? I HAVE 125 GALLON AQUARIUM, THANKS
<this coral is highly adaptable... please do have patience my friend. Share a pic when/if you can for better ID of the problem. Anthony>

Turbinaria and algae.
Hello Again Crew
<< Hi there, Blundell here. >>
You helped me out once before so I will call on you once again.  I have a pagoda coral I believe it is Turbinaria peltata that I inherited from a friends aquarium when he left the hobby.  When I received it, it was not extending its polyps but since has come to fully extend and feed once again.  The problem is there is a patch in the center of the coral that has died and Green hair algae has a foot hold.  My water conditions are relatively good with my only concern being my nitrates somewhere between 10 and 20 ppm.  I have managed to win my battle with hair algae in most places except on this coral. The algae seems to do much better in this location than any other even though circulation is good.  I have tried to clean it of with a toothbrush but I am worried about damaging the coral.  Other that trying to keep my nutrient export up, feed lots and keep water conditions good is there anything that I can do? << Hermits and snails.  Also, it isn't such a bad thing, so I don't know if I'd get worked up about it. >>  Also is this species of coral completely non photosynthetic? << I have a difficult time believing so.  Calfo may say otherwise, but their color changing responses to lighting conditions give me reason to believe they are photosynthetic. >>
Lonnie Chin
<<  Blundell  >>

Tubastrea (sun polyps) losing color - 2/17/05
Hello Crew! <Hey Elmer>
I must say that I'm an avid reader of your web site, learning  a lot of things. <Great! Me too, actually> Thanks for that. <Thanks for coming here and being part of it all. It is why we do what we do> I have a beautiful sun/tube coral (Tubastrea aurea) which is in my aquarium for about 3 months now. <Fed well I hope?> I noticed that it started to lose its orange color at the base of its tubes. <Fading or actually turning colors?> It started as one spot three weeks ago that is gradually enlarging through time. <Hmmmm>  Now, most of the bases and in between the tubes are grayish in color. <How is the flow around this coral??>  Is this a sign of a dying coral? <Very possible. How do you feed this coral? This is a non-photosynthetic coral so it will need feeding somewhat frequently. At least every three to five days>  It is sitting at the bottom of my aquarium, not in a shaded area. <Not necessarily an issue but I have usually spotted these corals growing caves and overhangs usually upside down>  My water parameters are very good. <OK Be sure to check it and maybe even have someone check if possible. Maybe a local fish store?>  I have a 50g aquarium (5 months old), 192w fluorescent lighting, Arctica chiller maintained at 77F, 60lbs live rock, CPR Cyclone CY 194 sump/skimmer/filtration system with carbon, RowaPhos, and BioBale inside. <You can take out the BioBale if you would like, otherwise sounds very nice> I have a flame angel, yellow tang, 2 damsels, a Banggai cardinal, 2 soft corals, 2 LPS corals, a starfish, and 2 cleaner shrimps. <Good selection. Keep an eye on the damsels. Destructo twins for sure>
This tube coral is my first coral. It is beautiful and I earnestly don't want to lose it. <Again, be aware they like a medium flow and need to be fed regularly as stated above. Try a mixture of various Mysid, Cyclops-eeze, baby brine, Omega one etc and try target feeding if you don't already. Very likely they do get some food left over from the fish feedings but better to target. Again, to reiterate, this is not a coral that requires lighting.> It still continues to expose its yellow tentacles at night time. <A good time to feed it> Please advise. <I can't say for sure that this coral is dying, but I think increase the flow, maybe hang it in an overhang or cave, and target feed when tentacle are exposed will get the coral back on track.> Many thanks for your help. <Hopefully I have helped. Remains to be seen. Thanks for being part of it all. ~Paul>
Regards,
Elmer