My Yellow Tang, hlth., env.    10/3/08 Hi! Ted K Here Thank everything that's wet your site exists. The problem is my wife think I read to much now. LOL I have been reading so many FAQs, and have come close to finding a description of the problem. I still haven't found the answer??? My tank is 110g tall 120lbs of LR, w/ inverts and fish. Water parameters are all good and have been for a year or so. I have a Yellow Tang that has been in the tank from the beginning and in the last few weeks he has been breathing very rapidly. His mouth looks like its stuck open he stopped eating and there are little red soars around his entire mouth. <I see this in your excellent photo> The soars resemble little red lines. I have attached a pic. If you need more info please reply. I hope you can help!!! Thanks in advance Ted <The reddening is termed "septicemia"... "dirty blood"... evidence of something/s not right water quality wise in this system... Perhaps other life poisoning this fish, maybe simply metabolite accumulation. I would be testing your water, changing a good deal of it, cleaning up your skimmer... Perhaps looking into long-term ways of making the system more stable, optimized. Please peruse WWM re: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm Bob Fenner>

New Tank Problems... env., iatrogenic...  9/8/08
Hi my name is Curtis. I set up a 95 gallon salt water tank a month and a half ago. I have 2 Magnum 350 canister filters on it with a strong Corallife protein skimmer (hang on version).
I started the tank up with 90 pounds of live rock and a good 2-3 inches of live sand.
<I would increase this to 4-5” for a true DSB.>
After the first week I had good water conditions. I put a few damsel fish in and shortly after a Harlequin Tusk and Niger trigger. They seemed to be doing great. One week later I added a spotted Foxface rabbit fish.
<You need a larger system for all of these.>
Again things seemed ok. I then purchased a Passer angel. The angel did ok for a few days and then developed ich. It soon died a few days later.
<This needs a larger, well established system. Even on its own.>
I removed the angel and waited a about a week. I then came across a good sized Emperor angel and a large Majestic angel.
<Ditto on the above.>
After putting them into my tank a few days later the Tuskfish seemed very weak. The water tested high nitrite and ammonia levels around 1.5.
<Deadly.>
It was all down hill from there. The Tuskfish was the first to die. The angels got bad white spot and died. I removed the Niger before this happened because it was a bully. I am left with only the Foxface and 1 damsel. The ammonia is still a .25 or a little less and finally today nitrite is close to 0.
<Anything above 0 on these is too high.>
Nitrate is 20 range. The Foxface still seems to breathing fast and a clear discharge is coming off of its body from time to time.
<This fish needs to be moved to a more suitable, stable system; even a quarantine tank until you can get the system stable. Do take care moving it, these fish do have venomous spines. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/rabbitfi.htm.>
Was this too much too fast and what can I do to get back on track?
<Yes too much period and much too fast. You really need to take a step back and read about what is going on. Read up on cycling, quarantine and please do carefully research future additions regarding compatibility with your system and each other.>
Thanks Curtis
<Welcome, Scott V.>

New Tank Problems 9/8/08 9/9/08
Thanks Scott,
<Welcome, happy to help.>
Everyone at the fish stores where telling me not to do any water changes because my water had not cycled yet.
<If it is not cycled, why add so many (large) fish? Are you utilizing any live rock, if so, water changes are in order.>
I could not understand why I had nitrate levels within the first week if my water had not yet had cycled.
<Some ammonia has made the cycle, not all of it. The sign of the cycle being complete is 0 ammonia (even wait a week past this), not showing some nitrate.>
Thanks for the help. I have had tanks for 20 years and
never have had problems like this. I want to have the best possible water conditions and environment for my fish. Most of my tanks have been reef tanks. They seem to be easy after a while. I believe that a once a week water change always keep thing pretty good.
<It does.>
I just did not know when to do the first water change during this big nightmare.
<Start now!>
Curtis
<Scott V.>

Re: New Tank Problems 9/9/08
Thanks,
<Welcome.>
Should I do a water change?
<Yes, likely a series of them.>
Nitrite is 0 but ammonia is still .25 and nitrate is 20. My ph is 8.2. The tank has been going for about 7 weeks now. Also is my 2 magnum filters not strong enough? Do I need to increase my filtration?
<The filters will be enough with an appropriately stocked tank; this is a stocking issue, not an equipment issue. Do read up on Cryptocaryoniasis, Ich. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm You really need to step back, let this tank run fallow for a while and research what you can and can’t keep, within your system and with each other. Use the tools of WWM, other sites and books that are out there. It will make all the difference. Scott V.>

Porcupine Puffer Help... actually, just reading re mis-stocking, maint. of FO sys.   7/4/08
Ok, will start with my set-up. 65 Gallon,
<A Diodontid needs more room than this>
have a CPR BakPak and Red Sea
Prizm Skimmers. Filstar Canister Filter rated to 75 Gallons, currently filled with live rock as the media. 2 Powerheads. Have 60-70 Pounds of Live rock and about 50 pounds of live sand. System has been running for about 6 months with 2 Volitans lionfish.
<These also...>
I had my water tested before adding my little porcupine and it read 7.9 pH,
<Too low...>
10 Nitrate, 0.2 Nitrite, and 0.2 ammonia,
<... both deadly toxic>
Salinity was 1.018.
<Too low...>
The puffer is only about 4" right now. I am planning on getting a bigger tank, probably 125 within 6-8 months.
<Too late>
So I figured water was at good quality before adding my puffer, and I had time before getting my bigger tank for him to grow a little. I have had my porcupine for about a week now. The first 4-5 days he was fine and healthy just swimming about the tank checking things out. The sixth day was when he finally ate something, just a couple of krill. Couldn't get him to accept the silversides. On day 7 I woke up to the blue in his eyes gone, they are also larger than normal and slightly hazy, he also had a film coming off his spikes and around his eyes.
<Good observations>
He was swimming around bumping into everything as if he couldn't see. When he wasn't swimming and was laying on the sand he is breathing heavy and appears to "cough" every 5-10 seconds. Before today I had been doing about 5 gallon water changes every other day. I panicked a little and did a quick 7.5 gallon water change before testing the water. I then ran to my LFS to grab some meds.
<... environmental>
I was given a Malachite Green and some Maracyn-Two. I came home, set him up in a freshwater bath with the malachite green for about 20 minutes. While this was going on I tested the water. pH 7.9, 0.2 Nitrite, 0.15 Ammonia, 40-50 for Nitrate, and 1.023 for salinity. I then did another 7.5 gallons of water change. Put puffer back into my main tank and added the recommended dosage of Maracyn-Two to the tank (2 Packets per 20 gallons, so I added 6 packets). Also every water change has been with mixed RO water and salt to a 1.025 Salinity. The 2 lions seem to be in great health still.
That's the story up to today. I think I have solved the stuff that was found on his spikes. As he coughs he is blowing the sand up around and onto his back. So it seems to be just stuff he is kicking up out of the sand. My question is this. How many and how frequent water changes should I be doing from this point forward to get him healthy again, should I be doing a daily freshwater bath with the Malachite Green, and should I continue with the recommended five day dosing of the Maracyn-Two. Any other meds you can recommend?
Your help is appreciated.
<... No "meds" needed, nor desired. But reading (by you) is... see WWM re the Systems for these species, Ammonia, Nitrite... You're headed for disaster... at a fast clip. Bob Fenner>

Hippo tang with Velvet? - 7/2/08 Hey guys, http://www.zaita.com/Images/Hippo01.jpg http://www.zaita.com/Images/Hippo02.jpg <I see> I noticed these marks on my Hippo today, she was fine yesterday. She seems to have a scratch in front of them going up her body as well. I thought maybe velvet, but I am thinking it's something more? <Mmm, something different. Twere this Amyloodiniumiasis, all your fishes would be dead> Maybe she got stuck in a rock and had to wiggle free? It is only on 1 side of her body too. <A possibility, but there is a much greater likelihood that this area is resultant from a "brush" with the Cnidarian life in your system... perhaps the Euphyllia just in view> Tank is 125g, 12months old. She was first fish introduced and is now about 15cm in length. No new additions for the last 12 weeks. She is housed with 2 Scopas tangs who she bosses around, a few smaller fish and a COB whom she ignores. She rules the tank quite happily. Her appetite, attitude and breathing all appear to be normal. She is fed Nori, enriched Spirulina and enriched frozen brine. She has previously had white-spot but it was only ever 1 or 2 spots that left after a week. Apart from that she has been a healthy blue tang. She was looking perfectly normal yesterday too. Thanks heaps guys, really love the site and it's an invaluable resource. Regards, Scott. <Thank you for your kind words Scott. I would "do" nothing extraordinary here. Very likely this area will heal w/in a few weeks, the fish all the smarter for paying closer attention to the "decor". Bob Fenner>

Compressed gas duster 06/06/2008
Hello WWM Crew,
<<Hello, Andrew today>>
Someone who will remain nameless used a compressed gas duster (the kind to clean off computer keyboards) on the hood of our saltwater Nanocube. They realized quickly that the compressed gas (along with its propellant such as difluoroethane) could have gotten into the tank so within 10 minutes all of the fish were evacuated into a very stable refugium of another tank, and the fish are fine.
We've done about 1/3 water change (~ 7gal of 20gal) in the Nano). Our plan is to watch the (prolific) algae and (small white) starfish as a barometer of water quality before returning the fish in two or three days. Should we do more of a water change? Other suggestions?
<<A couple of larger 50 - 60% water changes should suffice, and lots of monitoring of the tank, should all be fine>>
Blessings,
BJ Mora
<<Thanks for the questions. A Nixon>>
 

Tank temp spikes and affect on Sailfin Tang 05/23/08
Hi guys,
<including gals I trust>
I love your site and have gotten many helpful hints on keeping my tank healthy. Everything has been great-until now.
My set up:
120 gallon saltwater tank
Euro Reef Protein Skimmer
2 Koralia 4 Powerheads
130 lbs live rock
Phos-ban phosphate reactor to include activated carbon
Wet dry sump with bio balls
Livestock:
9 in. Red Sea Sailfin Tang
<... needs more room>
7 in. six bar angel
2 in. maroon clown
6 inch Niger trigger
6 small blue-green Chromis
Brown spotted goby
4 large turbo snails
1 red Pilipino hermit crab
The inhabitants have been in the tank for over two years now and I have only lost snails when the crab got hungry. I currently live in Tampa, FL and went on a weeks vacation with my wife. We had someone come by to look after the house and feed and take care of the fish every evening. This time of year (May) it starts to really warm up, as you would expect. I maintain the temperature in the house during the day, to also help keep the aquarium cool. As luck would have it, my 2 year old A/C unit fizzled out, spiking the temperatures in the house to over 93 degrees and the tank almost as hot. Unfortunately, the house sitter couldn't get an A/C tech there, as it was the weekend, and did everything he could to get the temperature in the aquarium down. This included floating bags of ice in the top and adding cool RO water. He managed to get things down to 88 degrees in the tank, but obviously still way too high. By the time I got back into the country to fix the A/C, we still had all of our inhabitants (except a snail, who was eaten by the crab.)
By the time we got home, the livestock had been subjected to at least three days of this-according to the sitter. To no ones surprise, everyone was hiding except for the Chromis. Everyone looked stressed, but are coming along with the exception of my Sailfin tang. The day I got home, he had developed large white spots (lesions on his head and around his eyes that almost looked powdery.) The day before I got there, the sitter said he appeared "fine." His breathing is labored and one side of his gills are enflamed and red inside. He is not eating and now the large spots seem to be almost peeling off in chunks, exposing soft pink underneath. I gradually got the water back down to 80 degrees F over the next day and the others are swimming around more and starting to nibble on food. I've been careful to feed just a little food after all the drama in the tank. I'm worried about the tang though as he seems to be exhibiting signs of HLLE-just a guess. In addition to solving my temperature issues, I did a 25% water change and removed the carbon. What do you recommend in addition? If this is HLLE, is my tang going to make it?
<Likely will be fine... just take some time to heal>
Help,
Rich in Hot Tampa
<HLLE, neuromast destruction syndromes are largely environmental... fix this and... Bob Fenner>

Marine Tank Mass Suicide 05/14/08
Hello,
<Hiya Jeremy, Darrel here tonight>
Love your site. Great information.
<Thank you. I must say that you show a great deal of style, taste and dare I say it - intelligence for noticing!>
I have a 75 gallon reef setup. All of my parameters are good: ammonia/nitrite 0, nitrates <20, temp at 78, s/g 1.026. The fish in the tank are a clarkii pair, diamond goby, clown goby, powder brown tang, and yellow tang.
<OK -- except to say that "Nitrates <20" are very common words. As long was we all understand that lower is better and while "<20" is OK ... "undetectable" is better. Or, as I tell my son three times a week "You look bored, do another water change!">
Recently, the two tangs committed suicide. They were wedging themselves in spaces in the live rock that were much too small for them. I would come home from work, and they would be stuck and breathing heavily. I would free them, but they would do it again as soon as they were free. Needless to say, the abuse on their bodies finally caused their death.
<Sorry for your loss, Jeremy>
I attempted to replace the yellow tang, only to have him do the same thing after two days in the main tank (it only took one time for him to be dead).
<This is one of those letter that conveys a lot of information from your perspective but actually leaves more to OUR imagination than you might imagine. TANGS are funny fish. They routinely wedge themselves into places that look in every measurable way too small for them. The Blue Hippo Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus) is an incredible jokester, frequently laying on it's side and breathing irregularly, giving off every possible indication of imminent death ... sometimes as a response to stress and other times just apparently for grins ... only to swim off and swim "right" just as soon as they're sure we're properly worried.>
<So the question is: How sure are you that they wouldn't have come out on their own? Much like cats, Jeremy. Ever notice that the trees that line your neighborhood streets aren't littered with the bodies of dead cats? It's because almost without exception a cat can eventually get down from any place it gets into. Same with fish. Scuba divers rarely find remnants of fish in crevices. I suspect that you are correct when you theorize that the process of freeing them was as damaging (and stressful) as whatever the root cause (if any). Unless I had a clear cut case of a fallen or shifted rock, I'd be inclined to let any fish that appears wedged in somewhere simply stay there overnight.>
My question is - Is something or someone in my tank causing the fish to freak out enough to slam into the live rocks until they are dead? All my parameters are fine. Someone mentioned that maybe some of my
equipment is shorting out sending electric current into the water. Is that possible?
<Possible, sure. Likely? Not so much. Even minute amounts of current in the water would be detrimental to the system but you'd likely see aberrant behavior in all fishes, not just the tangs. The problem is that most digital volt meters you would be able to access measure in milliamps and you'd need micro amps to find a small leakage.>
Help! I of course don't intend to add anything to the tank until I have this remedied, but I love the swimming motion of tangs and would love to have another one.
<Tangs are about my favorite, too and most tanks would be blah without them, so I concur. How long was the last Yellow Tang in quarantine before it was introduced into the main tank? Was his behavior change INSTANT in the main tank? How long did you wait to see if he'd free himself? What, exactly, did you do to free him?>
Thank your for you help on this!
<Write back with those answers Jeremy, meanwhile I'll go fishing for suggestions (PUN ALERT) from my more learned colleagues>
Jeremy in Omaha, NE

saltwater fish behavior and cause of death... env. Ridiculous mix of species in too small system... too much money, too little knowledge   5/5/08
Hello. I have had my saltwater reef tank established for almost nine months now and just recently problems have began to occur. My tank consists of a few hardy corals, a emporer anglefish, clown fish with a anenome,
<... the Angel name is tellingly mis-spelled, and need to know the species of Anemone>
a sargassum trigger fish, and a kole tang. Its 65 gallons,
<... you're not joking? This mix of species won't fit in such a small volume>
with about 55 pounds of live rock, and a few snails and hermits.
<... will be eaten by the Balistid>
My trigger fish had begun to be very timid, hiding in the rocks for days, only comming out to eat, and now has died. All my elements are where they should be, but the alkilinity hasnt been very stable. Its not horrible but not where it should be. I'm wondering if that could be why he died. And now I've began to notice my anglefish displaying unusual behavior. He will often go to the right side of the tank, between live rock and the glass, and just hover. I really hope he is'nt going to die also. Could you give me any advice?
Gayle
<Read... re the needs of the life you intend to keep BEFORE purchasing it. What you list won't work. Bob Fenner>

Saltwater tank infection   5/4/08
Hi Crew,
My tank had been up and running for almost a year now with no major set backs until the water level in my skimmer raised too high and began pumping water into the collection jug, overflowing onto the floor.
<Yuck!>
My auto top off replenished the falling water level overnight with freshwater and it took quite a toll on my fish. Sad to report I lost two fish almost immediately and three others gradually deteriorated over the next few days. One of those three is still alive and eating (yellow tang) but his future is uncertain. A clown fish, cleaner goby, chromis, inverts and corals seemed unaffected thankfully. I had recently introduced one of the fish who may not have been quarantined properly and my assessment is that following the shock of the freshwater flood, the remaining fish became susceptible to something the new addition introduced, hence the gradual deterioration over the next few days.
<Well-described>
Since it spread so easily to the other fish I'm assuming bacterial rather than parasitic.
<Mmm, actually, there are some very "fast onset" protozoan conditions... as in overnight>
The fish had no external sign of disease other than frayed fins, pale colors, stressed out behavior and toward the very end two of them had some sores or discoloration spots. From everyone I talked to I was best to keep the water param.s perfect and slowly raise the salinity back up rather than pulling out the three deteriorating fish and trying to treat with meds
<I am in agreement>
(and I was not convinced that any effective meds were reef safe to add to the display) in a quarantine, but I basically just ended up watching the two fish die (and possibly a third).
Anyway- my question is this: once the remaining livestock seem back to full health how long should I wait to add new fish and/or are there any measures I should be taking at this point besides monitoring water parameters?
<A month or so and no>
And yes, I will make sure every fish is definitely quarantined properly before adding to my tank and fail safe the collection jug set up so it can't happen again. Thanks for the response.
-Brian
<Thank you for relating (and so well) your trial and thought-processes. You have saved many other organisms and heartaches thereby. Bob Fenner>

Green Chromis and QT ammonia 04/28/2008
Hello again crew!
<<Hello, Andrew here this afternoon>>
After reading your Chromis FAQ, I was unable to determine what course of action I should take. So I hope you can give me some direction, as I've read different opinions from the crew regarding my situation.
<<Lets see what we can do then>>
I bought (1 week ago) in QT (30 gal) 17 green Chromis, and 2 purple Firefish. These fish are all in QT now. The largest Chromis is 1", and the Firefish are maybe 1.5". These fish will be the first additions to my 210.
<<WOW>>
My QT parameters are... Ammonia (free ammonia)- 0, Nitrites - 0, nitrates - 2-5ppm, PH - 8.0, Salinity 1.025. I have several PVC fittings for the fish to hide, and am feeding Spectrum pellets, and Mysis Shrimp, and blood worms. All soaked in Selcon. I feed a pinch of pellets in the morning, and half a cube of mysis or blood worms at night. I've only done one 50% water change as my ammonia and nitrite levels remain steady. I did the water change just after the 2nd fish died. My ammonia test kit (Seachem) still works great as the reference sample confirmed.
<<Ok....Feeding once per day is ample here>>
After 4 days, I found a chromis dead with what looked like bruising behind its right gills. 2 days later another Chromis developed bruising on the top of its head, and died within 4 hrs. This morning, I found another dead Chromis. This one looked fine, and didn't show any signs of bruising or damage.
<<This will be due to over crowding in the QT tank>>
I did net these fish. Several different opinions from the crew were mentioned on your Chromis faq page...one said that netting could cause the bruising and ultimate death, another said the QT was too small and to quickly move them into the display tank, while another suggested to start medicating for "hemorrhagic septicemia".
I'm not really sure what to do. Can you help shed some light on this?
<<Cut the level of stock in the QT tank. This is far too many for such a small aquarium I'm afraid>>
Also, the Seachem test kit says I only need to test for Free ammonia because Free ammonia is the toxic form of ammonia. The only other test kit I've used is from API. From my past experience, I'm sure this test would come back with ammonia of 1.0 or higher. From what the Seachem kit says, the API kit is testing "Total ammonia" which isn't toxic to fish, and therefore doesn't require a water change.
<<In my opinion, both ways of testing ammonia are acceptable. Testing for Free-Ammonia id just -another- way / method. Personally, i use the API kits and find them acceptable>>
Am I doing the right thing by only testing and responding to "Free Ammonia" readings?
<<Yes. The only thing i see wrong is the stocking levels of the QT tank, and this does need to be resolved before more untimely deaths occur.>>
Thanks for all your help! Wayne
<<Thanks for the questions Wayne, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Fish health.... What? Env. dis, SW...?  -02/27/08
Hi again, it's me. I know getting a bit annoying. Anyway, can high ammonia and nitrite cause fin and tail rot or is it just from aggression and unsuitable water parameters? Thanks again for your wise words.
<Well, nigh ammonia (and nitrite) can cause these illnesses BECAUSE they cause stress, reduced immunity to the infectious agents that do cause the fin and tail rot (same goes for aggression/over or improper stocking). Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/infectio.htm
Best,
Sara M.>

Has my leaf fish poisoned my tank?    2/16/08
Hi,
<Hello Francesca>
I had until today a pink leaf fish (Taenionotus triacanthus). Last night our skimmer went absolutely crazy for no apparent reason.
<? something...>
On inspection today the skimmer had calmed down but I noticed my Scribbled angel had dark patches surrounding his gills where the usual bright yellow stripe is usually found and was struggling to swim and the other fish were starting to nip at him. When checking the other tank mates, we discovered the leaf fish had died. It was hard to tell as it sat still for long periods of time anyway. I am now concerned that it may have released toxins upon its death.
Are they known to do this?
<Yes>
So far only the Scribbled Angel appears to be affected and I have added some activated carbon to be on the safe side.
Should I be looking at removing the livestock from the tank?
<Perhaps... I would at least execute a large water change, increase aeration... But if you have other stable system/s...>
I have removed the angelfish who is now swimming in a bucket full of tank water from my other marine tank and appears to be breathing easier.
Thanks
Francesca
<Mmm, all Scorpaeniform fishes are toxic to some degree... Think how slow this species moves... makes sense that it would have such defense. Bob Fenner>

Caulerpa prolifera, bad exp. related     2/16/08
Hello Crew,
After reading many of the WWM Caulerpa prolifera links and FAQ's I would like to share my experience with this macroalgae. Tank: 29 gallon - BioWheel filter, 3 powerheads bounced off walls and moved 1-2 times/week, Fluval canister - carbon and sponge media rotated weekly. Water parameters test normal - Ammonia 0, Nitrates always under 10, Salinity 1.023-.025, Temp - 79-80 F. Do not dose - weekly 4-5 gallon water changes with Instant Ocean salt. Excellent LFS test my water for other parameters that I do not test for and all are within normal range. (Because I don't dose, I don't regularly test for Calcium, phosphates, other trace elements - rely on the water changes and the LFS for tests every 1-2 months). The inhabitants are 2 false Percs., a mating pair (4 clutches of eggs since Dec. '07) and they have been the only 'fish' inhabitants for 2+ years. Until recently, I had 4 hermit crabs (some 2 years old as well) and an emerald crab, happily there for almost a year. Tons of purple coralline everywhere, about 25 lbs live rock, several forms of red macroalgae, 3 thriving colonies of brown polyps and one lone mushroom (Ricordea) - polyps and mushroom also 2+ years in this tank. Several other types of macros - mostly red and not nuisance (Identified on your site - thanks!)
Now to the Caulerpa prolifera - On January 2, 2008, I added a handful of the weed into my tank, along with a properly acclimated cleaner shrimp from my trusty LFS. The shrimp very sadly died within 48 hours - like it was being poisoned. I did water changes immediately and did not want to introduce another shrimp or any other creature. Within 10 days, my emerald crab was MIA and now presumed deceased. I am down to 2 hermit crabs. Polyps and mushroom are shriveled up and only partially extend after the water changes. Thankfully, the clownfish seem fine - still producing a clutch - but not like they were prior to the introduction of the Caulerpa prolifera.
After reading everything I can find on your site and from the countless hours monitoring the health of my little tank, I think the Caulerpa is killing my inverts. Plan to carefully remove all of it today, followed up with even more rigorous water changes and increased carbon. I'll keep you posted on the progress. With a 29 gallon tank, the Caulerpa may be too great a risk - simply not enough water volume to handle any toxins released - even with water changes. Any thoughts on this matter?
<Is a possibility here for sure>
The recent problems in my tank brings me to another question. I do not have a protein skimmer because of the low bioload and frequent water changes and because the original inhabitants have been thriving for so long.
<Mmm, would help>
However, recent events have changed my mind - scared me, really and I'm going to purchase an HOB/HOT skimmer. Choices are the Tunze Nano or Aqua C Remora Nano (rated for 25 gallons). There are many reviews on your site - any personal preferences?
<Both are excellent here>
Do you think the Aqua C Nano is sufficient?
<Yes, likely so>
Is the Aqua C Pre-bubble box required?
<Might be... try it w/o and see>
(I don't plan to add anything else except 2-3 hermits and a cleaner shrimp if and when the polyps unfurl/things get healthy again) Thanks for this site and all your work.
Cheers, Kellie McIvor
<It will likely take a few careful vacuuming/water change procedures to rid yourself of the Caulerpa... but I'd proceed. I do encourage you to skim out the weedy bits, turf them into your garden and not down the sanitary sewer... if yours discharges more/less directly to the sea... as this noxious weed can be too-easily transplanted in this fashion. Bob Fenner>