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FAQs on Marine Environmental Disease: Poisoning; Endo- and
Exo-genous; Not From Livestock
Related Articles: Environmental
Disease, Establishing Nutrient
Cycling, Marine
Water Quality,
Maintenance, Related FAQs:
Environmental Disease 1, Marine
Environmental Disease 2, Marine Env.
Disease 3, Marine Env. Disease 4,
Marine Env. Disease 5,
Marine Env. Disease 6, Marine
Env. Disease 7,
Marine Env. Disease 8, Marine Env.
Disease 9, Marine Env. Disease 10,
Marine Env. Disease 11, Marine Env.
Disease 12, Marine Env. Disease 13,
& FAQs on Environmental Disease By Cause/Types:
Environmental Deficiencies, Oxygen/Gas
Problems, Mis-stocking: Psychological
Challenges, (Aggressive
Behavior, Territoriality, ),
Physiological Challenges (e.g. Metabolites, Allelopathy, Stinging),
& Troubleshooting/Fixing, |
Metabolites most often... sometimes endogenous rhythms, wars twixt
microbes... Metals, oh yeah... And a biggie: so-called "fish
medicines"... There are a bunch of bogus ones about, that won't
treat much of anything, but can/do interrupt nitrification... |
Major Problem/Bleach Poisoning 9/8/09
Hello,
<Hello TenASea>
I had a major disaster, my husband was adding top off water to my tank
and accidentally added bleach water,
<May God have mercy on his soul.>
within about an hour or so I noticed all my fish were dead. It was not a
small amount of bleach...as soon as
this was realized (about 2 hrs after incident) I began pulling out my
corals (Zoas, torch, bubbles mushrooms, etc..), clams, and
inverts....lucky for me I have a small quarantine tank running and was
able to move them but did not have time to acclimate to new water...my
small tank is not set up to handle all the stuff in there now,,, no
lights, little filtration, ...I'm not even sure if my coral and clams
will live or not...but is there anything I can do now...and what needs
to be done for my 125 g tank so I can add my clams back.... urgently
needing help
<I would be very surprised if anything lives after that major disaster.
You have a major problem on your hands right now. Bleach will be
absorbed by your rock and substrate and will be difficult to remove in
it's present state. Without knowing the concentration of bleach added,
you will likely need to completely tear down the 125. My advice would be
to remove the substrate and discard, empty the sea water out of the
tank, refill with fresh water and filter water using a Poly Filter pad
which will eventually remove the bleach from the water. Two or more pads
may be needed depending on the concentration of the bleach.
Test daily with a chlorine test kit until no trace of chlorine exists.
<<All free chlorine is long gone... converted to chlorides... RMF>>
Then empty the tank and refill with fresh water and let run for another
week. You will of course end up with base rock which will/can eventually
be seeded by new live rock. You will essentially be starting over.
Bob/crew, any input to smoothen her road?
<<You've about done it. RMF>>
James (Salty Dog)>
fish death; SW, diagnosing a
toxic situation 8/7/09
Hi I need your help diagnosing a problem I have with my tank. The tank
is a 120g with 50g sump Aqua-C EV 180 skimmer. Tank has been up for 3
years now and I can't keep fish alive in it.
<!?>
The most recent even was about 4 months ago I lost all my fish to what I
thought was Marine velvet but ruled that out as the fish didn't have the
haze over their bodies so figured it was Flukes.
<...>
I let the tank sit Fallow for 10 weeks and while this was happening I
Quarantined the new fish for 4 weeks, the fish showed no signs of any
disease in QT so when introduces to my DT I dipped them in ph adjusted
Freshwater with Methylene Blue for 5 minutes. In the tank I put a
Chocolate Tang a Kole Tang a Longnose Hawkfish a Royal Gramma and a
Banggai Cardinal.
Everything seemed fine for about a week and a half then the Chocolate
Tang quit being active and started to stay under an overhanging rock and
wouldn't eat 2 days later dead. Then the Kole Tang was fine then about 3
days after the Mimic died the Kole started acting like it was spooked
and started hiding in the rocks the next morning when the lights came on
I found it dead neither fish had any visible signs of disease on their
bodies or fins. The Royal Gramma did the same thing went into hiding one
day and found it dead the next day. The Banggai died as well but before
it did it was having a hard time hovering like they do it was kind of
flicking its body to stay balanced the good thing I guess is I could get
a look at the fish with a magnifying glass and all its fins were
deteriorating like
something was eating them it had a whitish streak on its eye and body
was partially covered with a white dusting. The Hawkfish I got out of
the tank and shoes no signs of anything and I can look at him with a
magnifying
glass as well as he'll hover in front to see what's going on. I fed the
fish Mysis, Algae sheets and homemade fish food (the recipe from the
Conscientious Aquarist book). The tank has about 200lbs of live
rock,50lbs live sand and more rock ,rubble and Chaeto in the refugium.
Tested water regularly and S.G. is 1.026 temp constant 78f Amm 0 Nitrite
0 Nitrate 5.
Water changes are done 10% every other week. Please help me with my tank
as this battle has been going on for about 2 years now This is the 4th
time I've lost fish.
<... something is toxic in your system... Some source of poisoning
exists... Likely metallic, though it could be biological... I would run
a couple sheets of Polyfilter in your water flow path for a preliminary
look/see (by colour) of what may be in your system... Do you have access
to a store or college lab that could do some simple metal assays for
you? Bob Fenner>
URGENT: Staple fell into tank! 12/11/08
Hey, guys. I
email quite frequently but haven't had a problem this urgent in a long
time.
<Jon>
I have a 39G tank. I accidentally dropped a staple
into the back chamber.
Tried everything to remove it (mainly because
I have no idea where it went).
Tried using a long car magnet to try
and recover it but nothing.
<Good... better to use something a bit
stronger... an algae scrubbing one...>
Just wondering, will this have
seriously deleterious effects on the tank or should doing a few decently
large water changes over the next few months (along with weekly 10%
changes) help the situation?
- Jonathan
<Mmm, thirty nine
gallons... with the use of some decent (fresh) chemical filtrant that
removes metals (PolyFilter, Activated Carbon), you should be fine here.
Iron (Fe) is a sort of medium necessary element in most the life found
on reefs. Bob Fenner>
Re: URGENT: Staple fell into tank! -12/11/08
I think I
will stop dosing Iron as I have been doing as well. All that extra Iron
for free now (sarcasm)!
<Heeee!>
Thanks a lot, Bob. Was freaking
out quite bad since there is a lot of money invested in the tank now via
inverts.
- Jon
<This bit of added ferrous ion will not do any harm
Jon... I've seen "downstream" the effects of large rusting ship hulks
stuck on reefs... they're often more vibrant... BobF>
Rusting Bolt 9/24/08
Good Afternoon Crew, et al.
I have a
maintenance account which consists of an approximately 350 gallon
saltwater aquarium with a Living Color artificial reef backdrop
insert...I love these inserts, by the way. It has been up and running
for about a year now and quite frankly has been nothing but hassle with
regards to keeping anything alive and healthy.
The filtration system
consists of a 50 gallon sump with Live Rock, PM XL-1 Skimmer, Nu-Clear
Canister w/Carbon, 120 watt Aqua UV Sterilizer, 3/4 HP Arctica Chiller
and 3 Pan World 200PS return pumps. The salt mix used is Tropic Marin
and parameters are generally Temp: 78 - 80F, SG: 1.023, pH: 7.9 - 8.1
NH4, NO3: 0 and NO2: 10 -15ppm.
I have had some trouble keeping
specimens alive in this system and I think I may have stumbled upon the
reason on Monday. After becoming thoroughly frustrated, I took the
entire filtration system apart to perform a complete inspection and
found an approximate 1/2" bolt had at some point during construction
fallen into the sump and was buried under all of the live rock. The only
way I knew it was a bolt is because the washer, which must be stainless
steel, was still visible- the rest of the bolt had turned into a great
big mass of iron oxide.
Could this be the problem I've been having
all along? I immediately removed the bolt and placed poly filters onto
the spill of the sump into the pump chamber.
<I think this was likely
the problem...or a big part of it. Get the water cleaned up, and I
suspect you'll have much better luck with this system.>
Thanks for
your time...once again.
<No problem>
Scott C. Wirtz
<Benjamin>
Yellow Tang banging against glass, env.-chemically burned, pH 8.8
8/16/08
Hello Crew,
<Cielo>
I have a 5 inch yellow tang
that I picked out on Mother's day 08 from our LFS.
Up until now all
my fishes have been healthy. A little background on my tank: I have a 55
gallon tank
<Not really sufficient space...>
with 60lbs of live
sand and 30lbs of live rock, a protein skimmer, and a whisper filter.
Three days ago I made a 20 gallon water change. 2 Mornings after that
change I woke up to a noise and found that it was my yellow tang banging
himself against the light hood of the tank, almost like he wanted to get
out.
<Mmmm>
Then he began darting against the glass and hitting
himself against it. I noticed that he had red or pink on the inside of
his lips and also across his body.
The next day he stopped eating. I
checked my levels and they read: Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 0, but
my PH was 8.8
<Yeeikes! Caustic>
so I went to the LFS and
purchased a buffer.
I was told I should quarantine
<?>
him so
that I wouldn't need to medicate the whole tank as the other fish are
fine. The medication I purchased is the Myracid Two.
<... Maracyn...
Minocycline... of no use here>
I only had a 5 gallon tank
<Much
too small...>
available to make a QT out of, and so that is where I
placed my Tang. Right now he's on his side at the bottom of the tank, he
is hardly breathing.
<...>
At least in the display tank he was
still swimming around. Should I place him back in the display tank? I
need your advice.
~L from PA
<YES, now! Bob Fenner>
Stainless steel clamps 10/19/05
Hi Crew!
<Howdy Steve, Ali
here...>
Sorry, I just sent an email regarding a different question
and meant to include this one.
<No worries...>
I have a 215
gallon tank with a large wet/dry underneath. Most of the plumbing is
located under the main tank, in between it and the wet/dry below. The
installers (LFS technicians) routed the plumbing very neatly and
efficiently, however they used metal clamps around the fittings and
clear tubing. They appear to be stainless and just barely above any
water level, however because we have a cabinet enclosing the wet/dry,
there is quite a bit of humidity and most everything is constantly
wet. Could this be a problem?
<Yes.>
Please advise because I do
not want to be poisoning my fish and live rocks with metals leaching
into the water as the metal clamps corrode. Your comments are greatly
appreciated. Regards, Steven
<Yikes Steven! It's safe to say that
you should avoid any type of metal clamps on your pump connections.
Granted, the stainless steel pumps will last a bit longer in a saltwater
environment versus other metal clamps, however even they will still
rust. Definitely not a good thing. There is also a chance that your
clamps may be Zinc or Aluminum plated - this definitely a big 'no no'.
I'd suggest you remove the clamps ASAP and opt for either a few strong
zip-ties or plastic hose clamps. Give me a buzz down at M.D. and I'll
set you up with a pack of them. Dedicate an hour or so during the next
couple of days to getting under your tank and swapping those metal
clamps out. I know messing around with your plumbing can be a tedious
task at times, however it's important you get in there immediately and
be proactive. Talk to you soon Steven, Adios! - Ali A.>
My never ending money pit..... Poss. issues with synthetic marine decor
1/31/06
Hello,
<Hi there>
My name is Matthew and first
off let me say I love your book when I purchased all my aquarium
supplies it was one of the first things the store clerk had me put in my
cart, The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. Every time I buy something for
my tank I always thumb through the pages to see what your opinion is.
Anyway here is my dilemma.... I have a 75 gallon bow front tank. At this
time I have
1 Hippo Tang (2 to 3 inches very healthy)
1 Niger
Trigger ( 3 inches) newly acquired seems very healthy likes to hide in
the live rock and eats all the time.
1 Clarki Clown ( 2 inches)
seems healthy
Numerous hermit crabs ( a mix of red legs and zebra a
little of everything) Snails ( a mix of everything algae eating I could
find) 1 small queen conch and 1 chocolate chip starfish.
<I do hope
your trigger leaves these invertebrates alone...>
I have about 35 -
40 lbs of live rock, 2 inches of sand and crushed coral, 2 power heads
(300 gph) 1 Rena canister filter ( 375 gph) and a CPR Bak Pak protein
skimmer with the built in bio filter. About 4 weeks ago I purchased a
faux anemone, I read the package to read any care instructions to find
out that you have to wash it very good to make sure there is no residue
that may affect your protein skimmer. I rinsed it for about 1 hour and
then put it in my tank . Later that night my protein skimmer overflowed
with water, I turned it off rinsed it out and put it back on my tank.
For two weeks straight I ran this skimmer at the setting which it had
been out the entire time I owned it. It always ran fine collecting
waste. For two weeks I ran the skimmer no waste. I opened the water
intake more for two more weeks no waste. the whole time doing my Monday
water changes and readings. 8.2 ph, 0 nitrite, 10- 20 nitrate, 0 ammonia
and 1.022 - 1.024 salinity. All this skimmer wanted to do was dump
millions of are bubbles into my tank. Looking on the internet a lot of
people had a lot of different opinions about un dissolved micro bubbles
in your tank and the affect it may have on the oxygen exchange. Thinking
there was some sort of weird chemical in my tank, from the faux anemone,
<I would remove this... see if this curtails the excess bubbling>
I
have been running Kent Marine Carbon in my canister for almost two days.
Also for those two days I have been running my newly acquired CPR Bak
Pak (no waste yet just micro bubble in my tank) the skimmer seems to be
working fine the entire chamber is filled with micro bubbles but no
waste. I don't know what to do algae is overtaking my tank red slime and
green algae. I have 384 watts of power compact lights 2 96 watt white 2
96 watt blues. What is your opinion what should I do? Any help would be
greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Matthew McGlynn
<I have heard
some disturbing input re some of the material, manufacture of synthetic
decor... I hope you will not have real trouble... but I would remove
this and see. Bob Fenner>
Undergravel Filter
Hi Bob <Hi Robert sorry for the delay in
getting to back to you. MacL here, Bob is off at the Galapagos and
the rest of us are very envious!>
I have a 60 gallon tank, and
have enjoyed it for the past four months I've had it. it has all the
usual, a sump filter, skimmer, etc.....etc. but the other day I
purchased the death of my fish, an undergravel filter. Yes I had
purchased this item after seeing another tank with one in and
thought that's actually not a bad idea as I noticed a lot of crap
on the bottom of my tank floor where
little flow gets to.
so I wondered down to my local pet/fish
store and got the undergravel tray and a power head to "suck the
crap out of it".
I put the undergravel tray in, and powered up
the powerhead looking good I thought.
put all the fishes and my
one shrimp back in there newly decorated home. Everything was
looking good, fish seemed happy so did the corals coming out to full
bloom. Two days later disaster hit, my yellow tail damsel was
swimming side ways. I did an emergency 30% water change and still
the fishes seem sick. There eyes are completely black and there
breathing is heavy. all my levels are text book levels I'm stumped I
have a large air stone going all the time. <I would have thought
your ammonia or nitrite levels would have been high. When you put
the undergravel in, it has to go through a "cycle" yet again with
the ammonia rising and then the nitrites as at the beginning of your
tank. You already had some bacteria in the tank so it should have
been fairly quick but when you moved your sand or crushed coral to
place the undergravel you had to have disturbed your bacterial bed
there.>
PH 8.3
ammonia/nitrite/nitrate all at 0
phosphate 0
calcium 420-430
but yet my fish are not getting
any better, at the mo I have made a small tank, to see if they get
better. fingers crossed P.S. the undergravel filter doesn't have
gravel over it, the gravel is around the outside of it and I have
placed my live rock on top of the undergravel filter. (By definition
an undergravel filter needs to have some type of medium to filter
through. <Generally in a salt system that is crushed coral or sand.
It sounds like you might be looking at something similar to a plenum
system. I would encourage you to look at the FAQs on WetWebMedia
about the plenum system. I think what's happened is that you have
destroyed your bacterial bed Robert. Or a least seriously messed
with it. This should show some kind of ammonia rise however so you
not having one seriously has me stumped. Have you double checked
your water? Did you take your ammonia readings before or after the
water change? You say you've set up a small tank to move the fish
into as a type of quarantine? Watch for ammonia rises there as
well.>
Please Help....
Regards
Robert Gravel
Filter
<Hi Robert, MacL here again>
Thanks for the
reply, disturbing the sand could have been the culprit. I got my
hands on a book and all the symptoms point to poisoning of some
sort, so I did a 70% water change and everything is back to normal,
as for the source of my poisoning problem maybe it was from
disturbing the sand but I would have thought with a four to five
month setup there wouldn't be
much to effect the balance of the
tank, but nothings impossible. <Had you touched anything then
touched the tank? Put anything new into the tank? Sprayed anything
around the tank?> I had done my tests as soon as I noticed the sick
fish and got the fish store to double check and their readings were
a match. <It never hurts to double check, I once got a bad bunch of
chemicals>
Thanks for the reminder on watching the levels in the
quarantine tank, levels are good but salinity is the hardest one as
the tank is only a 12Gal, I need to upgrade that to.
My corals
also were effected but all seem back to normal. <Great to
hear> Well luckily have been reasonably patient with the setup and
not put a huge amount of live stock in there all at ounce, I think
I'll leave the tank alone for now and think twice before acting on
my sudden urges. Thanks again. <Good luck and please keep us
updated. MacL |
Rapid Breathing Onset
I have a 55 gal marine reef system. Tank is going on three months now
and seem to be cycled with 85 pounds of live rocks<Use care...it's
"cycled, but not "established" which takes nearly a year>. My live stock
are yellow tang, 3 Chromis, mated pair black saddle back clown fish,
true Percula clown fish, engineer goby, small brittle starfish, arrow
crab, and a pistol shrimp. Seriously I thought fight would break out
among the clown fish but they seem to get along<I've had the same
results, but who am I to argue?>. Anyway my question is yesterday my
fishes were all fine, they normally are aggressive eater when its
feeding time and they look pretty healthy. well the problem is the next
day majority of all my fishes are breathing rapidly like they were going
to die. One of my clown is breathing extremely fast as if he was going
to die and the day before he was eating fine. All the fishes are not
acting usual and appetite is gone too. They only thing that seem to be
normal is my inverts. what do you think the problem could be. I also
removed the carbon media a couple days so I could treat the whole tank
with Kick Ich
a medication that was said to be reef safe
<First
off, there's no such thing as a reef safe, effective medication. The
only thing this usually cures is excessus dollerus in the walletus>
. I check my water and my Ph is the only thing out of place.
Ph in
main tank 7.8
Ph in sump 7.7
nitrate- undetectable
nitrite-
undetectable
ammonia undetectable
Do
you think it cold be the medication that is dropping the Ph or do you
think it is the missing carbon media? Or do you think there are other
reason my fish are acting so strangely. they way there acting I don't
think there going to make it.<You don't mention why you treated the tank
for ick. If it was merely for the rapid breathing, you blew it, and
should immediately always think of extra water changes as the FIRST LINE
OF DEFENSE and never treat your main tank. You're tank is actually
overcrowded and if you, like many, tend to overfeed, that's likely the
source of your problem. You also don't mention having a skimmer which
you NEED with that fish load in a tank that small.
for now, do 5
gal. water changes every other day, which should alleviate the breathing
problem and gradually raise your pH as well. There are products for
raising pH, but that's a time bomb best not played with. Chemicals and
medications are reached for way to easily, ending up BEING the problem
in almost 90% of the situations.> DOH! I Broke the
Thermometer, Now What?
>Hi Bob and team.
>>Hello, Marina
tonight.
>I'm afraid I've had a disaster in my 200 gallon reef
aquarium. While recently double checking my chiller reading, I stupidly
left a thermometer in my sump. I found it this morning, broken at the
pump intake.
>>Oh my, thusly the term "disaster". It's not as
disastrous as you think, though.
>The lead balls have been sucked
into the pump and the mercury is gone.
>>Not mercury anymore, my
friend, usually alcohol (with a dye) is used in modern thermometers.
>Everything in the tank looks OK so far (corals and fish), but I can't
imagine that'll last. What should I do? I'm sure water changes, carbon
and PolyFilters will help but I can't imagine I'm ever going to find the
lead balls?
>>No, I don't imagine you will, either. But I wouldn't
expect such a small amount to be a very big problem in the short or long
run anyway. If you're very concerned about the contents, contact the
manufacturer, but to the best of my knowledge the potential for mercury
would be the biggest issue and as far as I know it hasn't been used for
quite a few years. You're correct, water changes, carbon, and
PolyFilters will help, though I don't know at all how readily lead
actually dissolves in water (thinking of wrecks of Spanish galleons and
all the lead shot/balls they find, all encrusted with stuff).
>Any
advice you can give would be great. I hate the thought of tearing down
my tank and starting again. Dave.
>>No, no, no, I really don't think
you'll need to go so far. Between the water changes and the chemical
filtration you should be able to deal with the small amount of dye
released. For "next time", get a bit of clear plastic tubing, the kind
used for undergravel filter lift tubes, along with caps. The caps can be
the same clear plastic, or PVC that fits. Glue one end (I'd use
Superglue-cyanoacrylate) on permanently, leave the other so you can slip
it on and off. Drill some holes in the tube, and it will protect the
future thermometer from such terrible mishaps. Marina Cleaning
magnet in tank, Eclipse Modification
Hello Mr. Fenner,
I just
finished reading today's Q&A's & the last one about lighting for the
Eclipse system. I started an experimental 25g Eclipse system a few
months back & am thoroughly happy w/it. The CustromSeaLife retro
PowerCompacts are terrific lights. And very easy to install.
I cut
the back of the plastic and have added a protein skimmer and a couple of
power heads.
<Thank you for this input>
This little tank is
supporting (I know you wont like this)-A mated pair of true Perc's, a
Flameback angel (African), a yellow assessor, a orange spotted blenny.
All very small fish.
Also, a torch coral, a hammer coral, an
Alveopora, a frilly mushroom and a small bubble tip anemone. Everything
is thriving! I highly recommend this lighting setup.
On another
note-My brother leaves his algae cleanup magnet in his 180g reef tank,
set up in Nov.01, & now he is noticing that the corals are dying or not
looking as great on the left side of the tank (where the magnet is).
Could there be a chemical reaction of some sort going on in that portion
of the tank?
<Yes. Most aquarium magnets are safe for leaving in a
system... but not all. I would pull these out when not in use... Please
have your brother contact us re water chemistry checking, use of
Polyfilter... as moves to correct the situation. Bob Fenner>
Welcome
back & thanks in advance.
Craig Formalin Med. Poisoning
effects
Talk about a bad day...
I lost my grey and Koran
angels today (see old email below...).
I had an outbreak of ick on
Tuesday and we started a treatment recommended by my local store using
Formulite II. Per their direction, I removed my carbon and inverts
(shrimp, urchin, and hermits) and added the medication - Two drops per
gallon. I then did the second of the 3 recommended treatments on
Thursday PM. On Friday everyone was looking great and everyone was
eating like a bunch of hungry truck drivers.
The two angels from
Friday to Saturday morning developed a major amount 'slime' on their
bodies and got foggy eyes. I'm guessing the medication caused this.
Anyway, I threw carbon in my baskets and I did a RO water change of 15
gallons again per the local rec.- but both angels were dead by 5:00 pm.
They looked like they were dipped in slim when I pulled them out.
Where did I go wrong? So far my remaining family is looking fine but
obviously I'm very concerned and my wife is really bummed out. Today was
a very expensive day and I am open for any suggestions...
Thanks,
Tom Tengowski
P.S. - The black cap also died earlier this week
also...I can't get a break.
>>
ARRGGGGHHHH, I'm so sorry to hear
of your fish losses. And do not, repeat DO NOT ever encourage the use of
formalin/formaldehyde in any format's use in hobbyist's aquariums. These
compounds are outright poisons (cross linkers of peptides), and are
deadly dangerous to all forms of life. Yes, the medication did kill your
fishes, blinding them, causing excess slime production... Don't know if
I can state "where you went wrong", I cannot profess to state, but you
reacted properly (with close observation, the water change, returning
the carbon). Do return the Formulite to your dealer and ask them to
explain what they think happened. Hopefully you have not killed off the
bulk of your beneficial microbes. If it were me, I'd test your water and
be very careful about (slowly) returning the other livestock... Take
Your Time. Bob Fenner
Endogenous poisoning event
I have
a 40 breeder reef for a year with 2 Anthias, 1 black cap, 2 clowns, 1
yellow tang.
Running wet/dry system with red sea skimmer; all health
, I feed them at night the next day when I got back home, took a look at
my tank and my tang was dead. So I did a water test water, everything
looked all good to the graph but I took it in to the pet shop and got it
tested to, it was good. I told them the story they didn't know what to
say. Come home feed my fish. The next day when I came back from work 1
of my Anthias and my blackcap flipped on me to, test water to it was
still good. So I did a water change feed the fish. Next day the other
Anthias died, water still good. I didn't do any cleaning around the
tank. 2 weeks gone by 1 of my clown couldn't swim upright just side ways
and couldn't eat for so I took him out. One more thing my corals closed
up for a long time before opened up again for over 2 weeks, even though
their open its not the same as before, they don't expand as big as they
should be. Came you give me any answers to my problem?
Thank you,
Souk Her
>>
Hmm, sounds to me like an "inside job" of poisoning by
one of your livestock... Like a sea cucumber... or other organism...
maybe even just a reproduction event by some microbe... that led to
slow/chronic poisoning... All will probably be fine by now (the poison
is probably gone), but I would do a very large (half) water change
before adding any more fishes... and maybe a unit of activated carbon in
a bag in your filter/flow path.
Bob Fenner
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