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FAQs on Parasitic Marine Worm Diseases 3
Related Articles: Marine
Parasitic
Disease, Parasitic Worms, Roundworms,
Related FAQs: Fish
Worm Diseases 1,
Marine Worm Parasites 2, & FAQs on
Marine Worm Parasites: Diagnosis/Symptomology,
Etiology/Prevention,
Cures That Don't
Work, Cures That Do Work,
Products/Manufacturers...
Flukes/Trematodes,
Tapeworms/Cestodes,
Leeches/Hirudineans,
"Other" Worms and Worm-Like Parasites...
Paravortex/Black Spot Disease, Anthelminthics/Vermifuges... De-wormers
(Piperazine, Praziquantel...) &
FAQs,
Yellow Tang Disease, Parasitic
Disease 2, Parasitic Disease 3, Parasitic
Marine Tanks, Parasitic Reef Tanks,
Cryptocaryoniasis, Marine Ich,
Marine Velvet
Disease Biological
Cleaners,
Treating Parasitic Disease, Using
Hyposalinity to Treat Parasitic Disease, Roundworms, Yellow
Tangs, Tang Health/Disease,
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ID - Please
Can you tell me what is hanging from my purple tangs rear end?? It's
certainly not the usual muck. Thank you, Julie.
<Mmm, appears to be a good-sized mass of worms... likely Nematodes...
though it might be Acanthocephalans... I would be treating this
fish/system with a vermifuge... Likely Levamisole... please see WWM re
such. Bob Fenner> |
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Nematode treatment, not Cu
11/4/07
Dear Crew,
<Mark>
My yellow tang appeared to have "small strings" coming from its vent. I merely
observed for 3 weeks, but the fish started to hide excessively and become
lethargic. Water tests showed good water quality:
pH=8.1 in a.m. - 8.4 in p.m.
Hardness=9dGH
Ammonia=0
Nitrite=0
Nitrate<5ppm
Phosphate<.5ppm
So I captured the tang and put him in a quarantine tank and treated with .50ppm
ionic copper.
<Mmmm, I would not have done this>
I know tangs don't always do well with copper, but I like using it because I can
test how much is present vs. " the dumping and hoping you added enough/not too
much" method associated with most other treatments.
<Good point>
I did not try a freshwater dip because I have had poor luck/skill with its use .
Anyway, my yellow tang seems to be responding well to the treatment so far (2
days). So how long should the tang be treated? And how long should the display
tank (90 gallon reef) remain fallow?
Thanks,
Mark
<If you had a microscope... I would cease the copper exposure and try an
anthelminthic here instead... in both the treatment and main tank... Prazi-....
see WWM re. Bob Fenner>
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Coppering White Face
Tang.( Acanthurus japonicus). Crypt... And flukes...
10/23/07
Last Monday I purchased what appeared to be a healthy, eating and
active white face tang from my LFS. After bringing him home, giving a FW
dip with Methylene blue, acclimating and placing in my QT. I noticed a
small thread like thing hanging from his fin. I believe this was an
anchor worm.
<Mmm>
Over the next four days I did 2 more FW dips (I always use Methylene
blue). The worm never detached. But I did notice a few small critters in
the rinse container afterwards. I've got pics of these and will attach
them for you. I was able to view them through my handy dandy kiddy CSI
lab microscope at 200 mag.
<Neat!>
Even able to get a pic through the microscope with my wife's digital
camera on macro setting. Kinda neat to see. I'll post it also. But these
aren't really the subject of my question, as Friday afternoon I noticed
the spots indicative of ick. I began coppering Saturday morning. Using
Cupramine. I am now up to the recommended .50 ppm dosage and want to be
sure I do this delicate fish right. Is this what dosage you would
suggest for this fish with this product?
<For this product, how the active ingredient is measured, this is about
right>
Or do I need to lower it down? I noticed somewhere here you recommended
a lower dosage? But with Cupramine? The directions say .50.
<Keep it near this... measure at least daily>
I brought that up over 48 hours as directed. Also I though I saw where
you recommended not using continuous copper on this fish.
<Yes... there are other/better medicants to use on/with Acanthuroids>
Does that mean only with baths?
<Another viable approach, yes>
Or can I continue with the 14 day treatment as indicated?
<You can... will be debilitating>
I would like to actually remove the fish as soon as possible from the QT
to the DT. Not in a rush here, but trying to do the right thing and
limit exposure. As well as guaranteeing an Ick free DT. I do not want to
go down that road again! I'll do whatever it takes to guarantee my 125
and 65 stays ick free. But If I treated the powder brown for 7 days and
then removed him and placed it in the 125. Would that cover my bases
here.
<I would at least add a pH adjusted FW and Formalin dip/bath twixt the
QT/TT and DT here>
It seems to me I would be killing any ick that are free swimming (I
forget the term). Trying to attach now. So in 7 days then all ick would
have dropped off and not allowed to attach again. Thereby assuring a
properly timed "transfer". Of course I'll continue the treatment of the
QT for the duration to guarantee its safe for the next addition. If this
looks like a viable option, I would like to use it. But wont risk the
infestation of the 125. If its OK to treat it for the 14 days and this
isn't a viable option, I'll continue this coarse.
<course>
Thank You so very much for your help. You site has been an incredible
contribution to my success in this hobby.
Charlie Bunch
<In the meanwhile I'd read re the causative organism, it's treatment...
Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm
and the many linked files above. Bob Fenner> |
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