Re: Long tentacle plate coral
Re: Coral/Health...Get That Black Light Out Of There 3/17/08
Hi James,
<Hello Ranjith>
Ok. Got that black light out. Funny though it is a product made specifically for aquariums (Azoo black light).
<Mmm, Snake Oil was also misrepresented.>
The MH are in a protective case and the filaments are not exposed.
The filaments are also UV shielded.
Thus they should not be causing any UV radiation right?
<Shouldn't be.>
Or do you suggest I place a clear acrylic sheet on top of the tank additionally?
<Covering the tank does reduce evaporation and the possibility of one of your fish
jumping out. I have lost fish in my early years not using a cover.>
You mentioned that the tank looks void of life.
Please can you be a bit more descriptive?
I went through the links you mentioned but "<the tank looks void of life, not a healthy looking system to my eyes>"
This does not tell me anything :(
<Outside of the animals in the picture, it just appeared sterile looking to me.
Not much life detected on the live rock. Was not meant to mean you have an unhealthy system, just live rock with little or no life present. I believe I owe you an apology being your tank is so new and any life forms may have disappeared from die off.
If the rock is of good quality, new life forms should gradually appear. I should not have mentioned this, had nothing to do with the query.>
I forgot to mention but I also have a Weipro 1024 protein skimmer that skims nicely.
<Not familiar with that product.>
Have a bit of a problem with the plumbing that leaks so working on it and hope to be done by tomorrow.
Cheers
<And a good day to you. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith

Plate Coral placement and feather duster   3/21/07
Hope you are doing well!
<Quite!  And wish you the same!>
I have a question about my plate coral. I have had this coral in my 55gal. tank for well over 6 months, and it seems to be doing great. It has grown some, eats like crazy, and inflates greatly during the day, almost doubling in size with tentacles extending to an inch or so. Inflated, I would say that this coral is about 5-6in. in diameter and looks most like the Fungia fungites specimen pictured on the following link, with the pink outer rim and maybe a little more greenish tint:  
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fungiidae.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fungiidae.htm
Mine also seems a little "meatier" during the day, with longer tentacles.  My first question is about how big do these corals generally get in an aquarium?
<Depends, can get pretty big.>
I try to do plenty of research before buying my corals, but I haven't been able to find their maximum size. Secondly, when my coral is fully inflated, it is somewhat scrunched up against a rock and also pressed against the side of the glass. So I am curious if I should manually move the coral, when it is deflated of course? I know that these corals often move themselves, so I am reluctant to move it due to the fact that if they can move and it is unhappy, wouldn't it just move itself? To me it appears "happy" just a little scrunched during the day.
<Yes, leave it be.>
Finally, I have a couple places I can move this coral, one being next to my giant feather duster and a candy cane coral. Can the tentacles of my plate coral damage the FD or the stalk of the candy cane?
<I would not place here... irritants>
Any suggestions and guidance is greatly appreciated as always!
<I wouldn't disturb, is happy, don't mess up a good thing.>
Thank you in advance for your help and a wonderful website!!!
<Welcome and thank you for your kind words.  -Mich>
Nick

Confused - Plate Coral and Conflicting WWM Info. Fungia hlth... placement     02/17/07
Hi Bob and crew!
<Hi Laura!  Mich here.>
I have had a beautiful Heliofungia actiniformis for about a month now in my 55 gal reef. It sits on the 5 inch DSB with moderate current and lighting.  Its gorgeous white tentacles with yellow tips are always full and extended 24/7.  However it has suddenly become unhappy.  The tentacles look a bit shriveled, and are no longer white, but a tan color!  
<Mmm, maybe the tentacles were a little bleached to start out with and is actually gaining health and color.>
Water tests show nothing different with the parameters, and the only thing I can point to is either 1) the addition of a nearby hairy mushroom (Rhodactis indo.), or
<Usually Fungia win the battle in the coral wars, but Rhodactis is a worthy opponent.>
2)the changing of one 175W 10k halide bulb (did not change both).  
<Mmm, this could be, as I think you may actually be seeing an improvement in coloring.>
The plate coral excreted a large white ball of mucus that resembled a fluffy cloud, and actually looks like a large cluster of the tiny Mysid that it has been eating.  
<And now expelling waste product... Only one orifice here, what goes in, must come out.>
Is this coral sick or dying?  
<I don't think so.>
What could be happening here?  
<Mmm, sounds like some normal functions.>
I was considering moving it, but after searching through WWM and reading two conflicting FAQ answers on this page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fungiidsysfaqs.htm -- one titled "Heliofungia long-tentacled plate coral", and the one right under it -- that discuss whether this coral should or should not be placed on the rocks, I am confused as to what to do.  Please let me know which info is correct, as I do not want to risk this coral's health any further by doing something wrong. 
<<Another example of bad advice by AdamB... another more show than go individual. RMF>> 
<Best on the sand bed.  These corals are actually capable of moving.  Placing one on the rocks increase the risk of tissue damage which is best avoided.>  
Thanks so much for your help!  Laura
<You're welcome!  -Mich>

Heliofungia Actiniformis: Plate Coral on Rock: never
Buenos dias. 
<greetings my friend!>
I have a plate coral that is in trouble due to an accident. I recently purchased it and it was doing great for the first couple of days. Then I injured it by dropping the top of it against the glass while moving it. It has not opened up fully for about a week now and it is deteriorating. 
<alas... do keep it on the sand bottom with moderate to strong water movement on the edges. Siphon away decay as necessary. Add iodine as per mfg suggested dose if you do not already. Remove if decay seems rapid (to QT tank hopefully)>
It is pulling back from the edges and I can see the skeleton in the middle too. 
<it may recover in time>
I tried moving it closer to the MH and higher current for a few days but that didn't help. 
<yikes! Not possible, my friend. First of all... moving a stressed or damaged coral to brighter light is very stressful and sometimes fatal. Lower light and increased feeding is always better. Furthermore... Heliofungia can never be placed on rock. That will sign its death certificate. They only occur on sift sand in the wild and will suffer from abraded tissue with polyp cycles on rock. Always keep on soft sand. Feed this species 3-5 times weekly minimum too with very finely minced meaty foods>
I now have it in my refugium under low lighting and moderate current.
<OK... and perhaps stronger current would be better>
While transferring it I noticed the bottom of it has a reddish spot covering about half of the underside. Is there anything I can do to save this coral? My water chemistry is good. Temp fluctuates between 77.5 and 78.5. Lighting in tank is 3x 150 watt HQI MH (tank is 24 " deep). 
<all water quality is fine, my friend... keep up the good work!>
By the way, did Mr. Fenner go to Mexico for the aquaculture conference? I translated some documents for him and was just curious if he got them back. It was a while ago. Thanks.
<Gerardo... we thank you so much for your help with the translations. Alas, the trip fell through. The organizers must have had some trouble. They did not answer any of our requests for travel and contact information and did not try to contact us by phone for travel arrangements until 2 days before the event. By that point we assumed the event was long since canceled and made other plans in our schedules. It is unfortunate... we were really looking forward to seeing that beautiful city in Mexico. But again, we thank you for your help in trying to contact the committee.>
Gerardo Gomez
<with kind regards, Anthony>

Re: Heliofungia Actiniformis, Dilution is the Solution to Pollution: High ALK
I will try what you suggested to revive the plate coral. I mentioned my water chemistry was good but I hadn't checked my calcium hardness and it is WAY too high. I have checked it twice and it is reading over 20dKH with a LaMotte kit (it actually reads it as CaCO3 at 4515 ppm).
<YIKES!>
My pH is steady at 8.2 and Alkalinity is 2.75 meq/L. I have a calcium reactor hooked up filled with Korallith and water flowing through it but I have yet to connect the C02 tank. When I originally filled the tank I overdosed on Seachem's Marine buffer to the point that a precipitate formed all over everything (I am still trying to remove it). 
<ahhh, yes... I see>
I did a water change but have been adding Marine Buffer to replacement water (RODI) to bring pH to same level. 
<agreed... but do aerate before any buffer or salt>
Any suggestions on what I should do next? 
<indeed... a string of large water changes. As they say, "Dilution is the Solution to Pollution.">
Sorry to hear the trip to Mexico fell through. It sounded like it would have been interesting. 
<yes... I was dreadfully sorry to miss it. We were so surprised to get a call 2 days before the event!>
Thank you again. Regards, Gerardo
<my pleasure, Anthony>

Coral placement (Plate Anemone Coral)
Hello, I have a Heliofungia actiniformis placed about 8 inches below a Euphyllia ancora.  Both apparently healthy with skeletal growth and extension.
<hmmm... is the Helio on the sand bottom... must be to survive long term. They are free-living corals and will suffer if kept on rock and likely die within a year or so>
Lately the Helio. Has extended its tentacles towards the Euphyllia (only towards this coral, all other tentacles remain similar previous length). Is it "targeting" the Euphyllia?
<indeed... quite possibly modified sweeper tentacles in defense of the very aggressive (tentacles and allelopathic secretions) ancora Hammer coral>
If so, do you have any personal experience with placement of these species you could share? Best, Michael
<popular thinking is 6-10" for non-aggressive species, 10"+ for aggressive. Be sure to feed both (especially the Euphyllia) very very fine minced meaty foods 3-5 times weekly for long term success. Best regards, Anthony>

Tank With Problems? (Cont'd)
A Fungia isn't expanding as much as he was and seems to be white around the mouth (while writing this
just after moving him he doesn't seem as white around his mouth but hasn't expanded more!). He was shedding mucus earlier and I moved him to a better
current. Does this sound like the problem with him?
>> <Well, Fungiids will eat a wide variety of foods, and in nature they tend
to cast a mucous net in order to capture food. This could be a simply a
normal behaviour of a hungry specimen. On the other hand, excessive mucous
shedding could be a sign of injury or stress. I am assuming that this specimen is located on the sand? Fungiids should always be placed on soft sand substrates, not on the rocks, where they are susceptible to injury. You probably already know this, but I just thought I'd bring it up as another possibility..>
Yes he's on coral gravel. I don't think the mucus is excessive, but I wouldn't know. When I added some food his tentacles didn't expand if he is hungry. But with no light (when he expanded most at first) he still looks deeper purple and this includes inside his mouth which seems white in the daytime but pink at night.
<I've seen this color "change" before; I believe that it's a normal reaction to the lighting.>
The Trochus, Physogyra and all the macroalgae seem to be ok, and the tests do say the water is ok.
<Phosphate as well, yes?>
I don't know. I asked for it checked for all that mattered. Phosphate wasn't mentioned, just nitrate, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and iodine. I have the first three test kits myself but for some reason despite exactly following what he does, I get several times the nitrate reading with the same brand of nitrate test kit. I thought it was 50 but its actually less than 10..
<Well, these corals can certainly tolerate, even thrive, in those conditions. I mentioned phosphate because studies have shown that high levels of phosphate can impede calcification...and both the Fungiids and Penicillus utilize calcium...>
The Penicillus though, is now a stump but started
losing green colour and stiffness before). I know Penicillus grows in sand but I have coral gravel. Does this matter?
<I've seen it grow in crushed coral. Sand is better, but the crushed coral should be okay, as long as other conditions are acceptable to the algae>
Are there any special conditions? I use hw Marinemix and don't use additives since calcium and hardness were raised to acceptable and the iodine came back as saturated.
<I believe that the conditions that you're providing are fine for this species...I'd give it some time to make a "comeback">
If my aquarium is a 23 UK gallon then could I add a Kole tang to clear the Cyanobacteria if it returns? I know it seems a bit small.
<Yep- I think that the tank is too small for a tang. Besides, tangs tend not to eat Cyanobacteria, in my experience. Koles do a nice job on diatoms, both in the sand and on the rocks/glass, however.>
I've never had diatoms.
<That's great!>
Alternatively is three Fluval + 2 internal filters enough water movement for this size of tank if I keep Physogyra and Fungia?
<Yes- these should be fine for these species. Remember, you don't want too much current on the Physogyra, as they can be damaged in a direct, high current situation. >
The water flow seems biased to the top, could this be why Cyanobacteria was growing along the bottom (but also on taxifolia)?
<Excellent observation, and quite correct, IMO. Among other things, lack of circulation is a contributing factor to a thriving Cyanobacteria population!>
Im really worried now about what might be wrong.
<I'd keep an eye on all water conditions in this tank, maintain a good maintenance protocol (i.e.; regular water changes, protein skimming and skimmer maintenance, etc.>, and consistent environmental conditions...look beyond the obvious if you are seeing continuous decline of your animals. With patient attention to water quality, you should see your animals improve steadily.>
There's just my Fungia seems less healthy now and he seems to be streaming for food. I've been feeding him every couple or three days - perhaps I should feed him more?
<If the specimen is demonstrating this behaviour, you certainly could try feeding a bit more, although these corals are not particularly demanding about feeding...Keep up the observing and learning. It really sounds to me like you've got a good handle on things. Regards, Scott F>

Tongue corals 3/30/03
hello, I was wondering what the care is for a tongue coral, like the water
flow, lighting, how often to feed them thanks     jim
<there are several genera called by this name. All need to be kept on the sand and fed weekly with fine meaty foods. Water flow should be moderate to strong random turbulent. Lighting depends on the depth of the tank and fixtures used. Please read through the articles in our archives at wetwebmedia.com for more info on reef lighting. Kind regards, Anthony>

Fungiids must be placed on sand bottom 5/21/04
Hi,
<howdy>
I have a 70 gallon corner tank with a hanging pendant which has a 250 watt 12,000k metal halide and two 36 watt actinic bulbs in it. I recently purchased a Fungia to go in my tank (I currently have some LPS and soft corals). When I brought it home I placed it on my sand bed at first. 
<very good... they must be placed on the sand bottom. They will die in time if placed on rock. Many possible reasons: abrasion from polyp cycles against rock, lack of DSB micronutrients, etc.>
However, I have a yellow-headed Jawfish that is constantly moving my sand around, so I was considering moving the Fungia up about 4-5 inches on a flat piece of rock. 
<please don't. And no worries... Fungiids naturally shed this sand. They derive nutrition from it too>
The rock itself is pretty flat with a few perforations. 
<no matter... the Fungiid will likely die on/from it in time>
I just wanted your opinion about putting the Fungia on the rock. Accommodations can be made to keep it on the sand but I would like to have your opinion. Thanks! Andy
<best regards, Anthony>

Heliofungia long-tentacled plate coral
Hi guys--Love this site.  Trying to decide on above coral, offered by my LFS, for my 65 gal, 24" deep tank, 2X96watt 50/50 bulbs, 15 gal refuge, etc.  Question:  I have Trachyphyllia, xenia, some 'shrooms, bubble, finger leather, cabbage leather (one of each)--will Helio be compatible, should I place in sand or on LR, how far from Trachy should it be (also now in sand)??  Thanks for your anticipated response....Barry
<< I would read up on them in some different books to see what is recommended. For me, I prefer to keep them in lower water motion, but higher lighting.  I personally wouldn't put one in a tank with two 96 watt pc.s.  I would probably recommend them for halide users.  If you do get one, I would put it close to the lights, on the rock work. Hope that helps. >>
<<  Adam Blundell  >> <Adam... poor advice... all too often... RMF... Place where this species is found in the wild... on the sandy substrate. RMF>

Heliofungia care 10/05/04
Hi Anthony:
<cheers, Greg>
Hope all is well (and the various writing projects are coming along).  
<plugging away feverishly at times <G>>
It's been a while since I needed to solicit your advice, but....   I have a beautiful Heliofungia actinoformis (bright green body with white-tipped brown tentacles) that has begun to look very odd.  At least to me.  
<beautiful coral... but rather difficult to keep and extremely sensitive to damage and mishandling. They must be kept on fine (sugar-sized, oolitic) sand and favor deep mature sand beds (over 4" and over 1year old) to thrive if not survive! Never place them on rocks for any reason. They are also only satisfied by zooxanthellate symbiosis less than 80%... that means heavy feeding. Yet you cannot easily target feed them organismally (particles). Rather, they need nanoplankton which aquarists cannot readily supply... short of sand stirring of that deep mature DSB, etc. You begin to see the challenges of this coral and why many starve to death slowly in captivity after some months>
I have had him on a soft sand bottom in my 110g reef tank (24" deep) for approximately a month.  The tank has dual 250w MH 10K lighting and I have been feeding him fine foods two or three times a week.
<all sounds good... although the lights may be a tad bright for this specimen>
The problem is that he has begun to show mesenterial filaments from the base of about a dozen of his tentacles.  It's as if he has a bunch of tiny holes in him.  
<perhaps some nibbling by a Centropyge or Zebrasoma in the tank? Common>
If this had happened initially I would have though "mishandling."  But it seems strange that this would show up after he has looked so good for a month.  I know that's not long really, but the little "holes" are confusing me.  Also, he is in light flow, so I don't think the current has caused the "injury."
<Hmmm... you really do seem aware of its needs and have done the right things IMO>
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.  As always, thank you and all the other volunteers for sharing your time and opinions.  Certainly service to the greater good! Take care, Greg
<I'm wondering if it isn't just finally showing signs of wear from the rigors or import. My advice here is to simply let it be. You are doing all the right things as far as I can tell. Best to leave the stressed beast rest quietly. Do look for possible nibblers in the meantime. kindly, Anthony>

Heliofungia care II 10/05/04
Thanks for the response.  I do have an Eibli in the tank, but he has been in with various species of Euphyllia, Nemenzophyllia, and Plerogyra and Physogyra for about six months
<six months is hardly a track record, my friend... not safe yet <G>>
and I have not had any problems with them or noticed him nipping at any of them (he is my personal fave...I'd hate to
remove him without knowing he's the culprit).  In your experience, do the Centropyge pick on Heliofungia more than other LPS?
<they are in fact more prone to nipping corals than most other Centropyge... this is a strong candidate here>
(Maybe he's mad I added something to "his" tank without proper consultation!!)  As to the lights, I mounted them about 16" above the tank due to my love for the LPS,
<ah, good>
I hope this is high enough...that's the advice I got from various sources when I had the opportunity to pick up the lights on the cheap.  
<I agree with the distance... but doubt the savings on the initial purchase can compare to the expense of extra/unnecessary ongoing cost of operation>
I bought the 250s because I am planning to set up a longer SPS tank in the near future and thought I could lower the lights to the proper height at that time and "strategically place" my LPS corals toward the edges of the tank so they would get bright indirect light.
<yes... perhaps :)>
Also, you gave me a thought.  I have been feeding the Helio with
zooplankton, but also with finely crushed Formula One.  
<both are likely too large... Cyclop-eeze might even be a little big, but very good if taken>
It seems to eat both, but do you think that maybe the Formula One was too large and could have caused a massive outbreak of bacteria that has had a deleterious effect on him?  
<too large, yes>
Just a thought.  I have read several sources (including the BOCP, I believe) that said "finely shredded" ocean meats were appropriate for these corals.  Anyway, what do you think?
<true... very fine matter>
Finally, the coral is definitely taking a turn for the worse.  Everyday, fewer and fewer of his tentacles are coming out and he has started to get an abnormally thick mucus layer.  
<aieee! The mucus layer (if clear) is a feeding strategy! Please do not remove. Fungiids produce this daily... wait for bacteria and nanoplankton to stick to it... then suck it back in to digest it>
I siphon this off, but do you think an iodine bath or other therapy might be appropriate at this point.  
<almost never... more harm than good (stress)>
Or should I just leave him to his fate and continue "supportive therapy"?  Thanks for the support.  Good luck with the books.  Take care, Greg
<always welcome my friend>
P.S., if this coral doesn't make it, I would like to try again (after an appropriate grieving period of course... reading and learning more than grieving, but still).  Do you have any recommendations as to where/who has the appropriate knowledge/technique to supply well-handled, healthy
specimens?  
<always/only local... never buy this one sight unseen>
Or would your advice be to leave these guys in the ocean and
break out the scuba gear?  Thanks again.
<there are definitely better Fungiids. DO check out Cycloseris species... some bright orange ones are imported. Anthony>

Slipper Coral Health 
I recently purchased a pink slipper coral. I have a 55 gallon tank. The tank
has been matured for one year. I have recently noticed that on one end of the
pink slipper about one inch the tentacles have turned to white.
My salinity is at 30 PPT and the gravity is 1.022. My PH is at 8.2, nitrite
is at 0, nitrate is 0, alkalinity is 3.5, phosphate is 1.0, and calcium 450.
I do 25% water changes weekly.
Any information you can share on this problem is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
<Hmm, may not be a problem per se... your phosphate is a bit high... but the discoloration could be (and most likely is) a temporary reaction to... another life form... something touched, stung this animal... it should recover, re-color in time. A periodic use of iodide and vitamin preparation will spur this on. These issues are touched on in FAQs files of the same name on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner>
Sincerely, Walter

PLATE CORAL DISASTER
I had a 55gal. reef that was 8-9 months mature. being my first set up with
relative success
(minimum losses)& inadequate everything I decided to upgrade my set-up. My
plate thrived
in the small tank. My new tank is 155gl. bow; reef rd;150 aqua clear skim
w/2400 Mag drive pump in a 55gl. sump ,2 icecap430 ballasts with 4-5` URI
bulbs(2 blue). IS TOO MUCH CIRCULATION POSSIBLE?
<Yes, but very rare in captive systems... more troublesome are constant, linear (one directional) "blowing" of water against specimens>
I was told I could never
replicate the ocean .the plate seemed to be under stress, as it was at the
sand level and in the line of blowing aragonite from water flow.) Water tests
show all is good,&this took place immed. after transfer. I approx. 250# live
rock(150 existing,100# from. LFS which cured in his tank for at least
2wks.Rest of tank is remarkable, brain bigger than thought
possible. mushrooms are same. br. hammer is thriving, finger leather sat
next to plate) along w/toad stool other side of plate) are finery/gorgo has
never looked better. I strongly feel water flow contributed substrate
blast) to my financial & mental woes.
<Does sound like it... though Plates (Fungiids) are capable of moving... they do not "like" substrates blown against them... or settling on them for that matter>
ALTHOUGH IM A ROOKIE, I HAVE MUCH
VESTED IN MY PASSION, AND DON'T KNOW WHO TO TUSTIN A CARPENTER BY TRADE
AND VERY DISS. BY THE ALL-GLASS STAND. MY LFS SAID BRING BACK THE STAND
&THEY WILL REPLACE IT (HAHAHAHA)I WAITED FOR 4 WEEKS FOR THIS TANK ON
A TWO WEEK SPEC. ORDER. AFTER $5,000 I EXPECT A LITTLE BIT MORE
FOR MY $$$ .ONE OF MY HOODS ARE CHIPPED, I WAS TOLD BRING IT BACK &THEY
WOULD HAVE A REPLACEMENT IN 4-6 WEEKS? WHEN YOU CANT TRUST THE LFS, WHO CAN
YOU TRUST
<Yourself my friend... no need to "shout" (all capitals). I will gladly offer you my opinions (and you can find a few tens of thousands of such on aquarium matters archived on our website: www.WetWebMedia.com). Please try to learn, understand the underlying principles behind all's opinions and consult with books, others you come to trust ahead of any important act/decision. Help is available. Bob Fenner>

Plate Coral, Again
The new long-tentacled plate coral looked great for three weeks--almost always inflated to over twice the diameter of its calcareous plate and three times the thickness. It started declining this weekend. It has a small dead spot on one side, and only 3/4 of it inflates now. It started acting weird this weekend, but I thought I'd leave it alone and see if it rallied. It looks like it is doing the same thing the last one did--sometimes rapidly deflating, but not retracting, its tentacles.
I've read on the internet that these corals tend to do well for a while and then just crash suddenly. My water has been good--I checked it today and had ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and phosphates all "0". Calcium got low this weekend--to 300 ppm--and I'm getting it back up with supplements pending receipt of the reactor. I've managed to get it back to around 360, but can't seem to get it any higher than that. Aren't these supposed to be some of the easier corals to take care of?
<Not necessarily... highly variable on the basis of immediate past histories, damage from falling, rubbing/touching other organisms, water quality and changes (likely here), light/lighting, parasites...>
This specimen is on the bottom of the tank in live sand. The water is moderately turbulent in that location. Lighting is VHO--2 actinic white and 2 actinic blue--440 watts total over the 115 gal DAS. What is this coral telling me, other than perhaps these species are not as easy to take care of as I thought? What should I do? (I've tried to refrain from moving it when it looked weird, due to stress--I thought the "collapse" if its polyps may have been due to the lowered calcium level.) 
<It will move itself if it can in your system... if it wants>
Incidentally, I did try feeding it some krill this weekend. The last plate coral I tried went into decline right after I tried to feed it krill--but I'm thinking this is a coincidence and that this is environmental or lighting-related.
Thanks for your thoughts, once again.
<Need to write up this part of an upcoming book (a section on the Fungiids). Hopefully something will "come up" from that endeavor... Finishing the Anabantoids today... Bob Fenner>
--James Deets

Re: Plate Coral, Again
Thanks for the quick reply--I think the best course here is to keep the Ca level up and watch and wait. Incidentally, I went back last night and reviewed our correspondence in relation to the last plate coral problem (that are posted in the Fungiid FAQ section of WWM). The one factor (besides the feeding) in common to the rapid decline of both of these corals is that there was a significant "crash" in the Ca level right before the decline began. In both cases, Ca dropped to 300 ppm or lower, and then the decline began rapidly. Could be coincidence, but I'd advance the hypothesis that the low Ca was at least a contributing factor, if not the cause of the initial decline, which in each case led to a recession of tissue around the edge, creating a "portal" for infection that quickly consumes the coral.
<Yes, likely a cause-effect>
Related to the Ca drop is another possibility (which I wasn't aware of until installing a pH monitor on Monday) and which is probably even more likely. And that is stress from the pH swing caused by use of the calcium supplement. Although the instructions on the product say that it won't affect pH, the first time I supplemented after installing the pH monitor, the pH dropped 0.25 (from 8.14 to 7.89 in a matter of minutes). So the Ca drop, in and of itself, may not be as much the cause as the pH swings from using the supplement.
<Yes>
If this plate coral doesn't pull through, no more LPS until the Ca reactor (which is arriving today) is up and everything is stabilized, and the coralline algae begins to really flourish. . .
<Ah, you're learning...>
On the positive side, at least I'm perhaps providing some more fodder for your piece on the Fungiids, as well as some additional material for the FAQs on these species. (although I'd certainly rather be reading the FAQs to learn from someone else's mistakes). Maybe someone will learn from mine, however.
<Yes my friend.>
I'll let you know what my numbers look like after one week of using the Ca reactor. Thanks again! (And also, thanks for your agreement about the ID of the Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura--I guess I really am learning something here--and it's a great fish!)
<Very good. Bob Fenner>

Plate Coral
Hi guys. I bought a LT plate coral about a week ago. I put it on the substrate in the tank and it wouldn't open up. I moved it to a rock higher up in the tank and it looks great. I know it can inflate and fall over or even tear growing tissue there. 
<This is still dangerous, my friend for many reasons. And they are never found on rock/hard substrates in the wild>
Is this an indication of too little lighting? 
<could be, or it just needed time to acclimate to the new lighting. Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm>
I have a 120 with 300 watts of PC. 
<this is indeed modest lighting. The tank is too deep to support this animal with these lights possibly and it WILL die within a year if you move it up onto the rocks. This is really not a beginners coral. Please do research this animal more. Daily feedings of finely shredded meats are necessary. Else it will die of attrition within a year just the same>
This coral is sooo pretty. BTW my flame angle seems to like picking at it. 
<and will do so until the coral dies. They must be separated>
Thanks for the help! -Becky
<please do read, learn more before you buy such animals>

Fungia repanda
Robert- 
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I recently purchased a Fungia Repanda disk coral. Within a couple of
days I noticed a white fungus covering a small portion of it. 
<yes... the LPS corals injure easily. This animal was kept on the substrate... not on rock in the store or your tank, right?>
It is white and sort of transparent. Its only about 1/8 of a inch by and 1/8 of a inch in size. 
<the current doesn't blow the necrotic mass away? If not, do adjust for more random turbulent action and you should manually siphon the infection away gently>
The rest of the coral does expand but the white area is suppressed by
this fungus. Might this white pox or white plague? 
<Impossible to diagnose without a picture or live specimen and then inaccurate without a scope... most likely a simple bacterial infection>
Would the this coral benefit more from Lugol's solution dip or a Kent tech D dip? Please let me know what you think. Thanks Anj
<yes, my friend...good thinking. One drop of undiluted Lugol's solution per five gallons of water for a short bath up to fifteen minutes (p421 of my book). Do not give up on this animal at any point! Fungiids are the most incredibly regenerative animals. Parents that suffer an infection and become apparently, completely denuded of tissue have sat in aquaria for months(6+) like a bare skeleton only to form tiny babies (Acanthocauli...asexual daughter colonies) from a decalcified skeleton (they can even form them from the underside if flipped over (photograph on p 229 of Book of Coral Propagation)). Maintain superb water quality in the meantime...skim aggressively, do not abuse iodine but add small frequent daily doses rather than less often weekly ones. We may need to take a more aggressive course of action if you apprise us that the condition progresses. Best regards, Anthony Calfo>

Re: Fungia repanda
Are you suggesting not to keep this coral on the substrate bottom? 
<my apologies for unclear wording. No, on the contrary... Fungiids simply must be kept on the soft substrate bottom>
Also, what is the best way to feed this coral? Is similar to the Open brain such as feeding it minced meat when its tentacles are extended??-
<exactly correct, my friend.. a meaty diet of zooplankton substitutes>
Please let me know. Thanks An
<best regards, Anthony Calfo>