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FAQs on Lined Wrasses, Genus Pseudocheilinus 2
Related Articles: Lined Wrasses,
Related FAQs: Lined Wrasses 1,
Lined Wrasse Identification, Lined
Wrasse Behavior, Lined Wrasse
Compatibility, Lined Wrasse
Selection, Lined Wrasse Systems,
Lined Wrasse Feeding, Lined Wrasse
Disease, Lined Wrasse
Reproduction, Wrasses,
Wrasses 2, Wrasse Identification,
Wrasse Behavior, Wrasse Selection,
Wrasse Compatibility, Wrasse Systems,
Wrasse Feeding, Wrasse Disease,
Wrasse Reproduction, |
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Pseudocheilinus ocellatus,
gen. 5/14/09
Dear crews of WWM,
<Nigel>
I was informed that the Mystery Wrasse () which origins from Marshall
Island or Hawaii looks different from those that is found in Vanuatu.
<Mmm, have dived in HI several hundred times and never seen this fish
there... Am wondering if I've mistaken it for the very common P.
evanidus?>
Those from Hawaii/Marshall Island are more purplish in colour from
juvenile till adult but will lose its bar as it grows old. However,
those from Vanuatu are more pinkish in colour and the bar will stay
throughout its growth.
Is there any where I could read up more about them?
<Mmm, yes>
I have read through
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2003/Fish.htm but could not
get
my answer. I have attached the picture of 1 from Hawaii and another 1
from Vanuatu.
Hawaii mystery picture courtesy of liveaquaria.com
Thanks
Nigel
<Don't know that I have seen any reference to different care for the one
geographical race vs. t'other... What little I know re them, the genus
period is archived on WWM. Otherwise, recent tomes covering Labrids...
by Kuiter/Debelius, Hiroyuki Tanaka, Scott Michael... Bob Fenner>
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Nasty Six-Line Wrasse - 5/2/2006 Hello to all the Wet Web Media
Gurus- <<HA! Happy helpers, :).>> I have developed a problem
with my two favorite fish- both wrasses. After recently re-entering the
hobby, I have been operating a 30 gallon reef tank for about a
year. Parameters of the tank are: 76 degrees F PH 8.1 SPG
1.024 All my tests show that ammonia, nitrite/trate, calcium,
alkalinity, etc. are good and consistent. <<Numbers are always
helpful.>> I do a 5 gallon water change every week. <<Good to
hear.>> The tank has live sand and rock, a substandard protein
skimmer (upgraded SeaClone 100), <<Ouch>> a power head for
circulation, some air stones for aeration, and a three stage trickle
filter with a sponge, carbon, and bio-balls (which I just heard are
bad???). <<Not BAD, just not a favorite of many.>> The tank is
crowded- residents listed are in the order added: 1 blue/green
Chromis 1 cleaner shrimp 1 peppermint shrimp 2 small snails
1 fairy wrasse <<Many species possible.>> mushrooms 1 small
clown fish (1 1/2") lawnmower blenny <<Tank is much too small
for this guy.>> 2 turbo snails 1 hammer coral 2" bubble tip
anemone 1 six-line wrasse 3 feather duster worms Also, looks
like there are some zoos, small brittles, a hermit crab, and
unfortunately a tree or colt coral that all came in as hitchhikers. Now
before you yell at me - I realize the errors of my ways and I am
currently in the process of setting up a 72 gallon tank to house these
guys. <<You read my mind! Are you running proper light/feeding the
anemone?>> Here's my problem: The six-line has been bullying the
fairy wrasse. <<Not uncommon.>> She has marks on her body and a
small piece of her fin is nipped. <<Poor girl.>> I've pulled her
out of the display and put her into a 10 gallon quarantine tank. I've
tried giving the six-line a "time-out" in the quarantine, rearranging
the tank, etc. Should I even attempt to put my poor beat up fairy into
the 72 gallon with the six-line? I suspect that the current crowded
tank is exacerbating the bullying problem. <<I agree.>> I'd like
to keep both of them if possible but I really don't want to keep the
fairy in quarantine for the rest of her life. Please advise.
<<Get the larger tank set up ASAP. Introduce both fish at the same
time, and watch them. You may need to choose one over the other, but my
guess is larger quarters will go a long way here.>> Thanks,
Stephanie D. <<Glad to help. Lisa.>>
Mystery Wrasse and Masudes Hog... Incomp. of Pseudocheilinus and
Bodianus spp. 4/8/06 I am getting a Mystery
Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus ocellatus) tomorrow and want to know if I can
add him to a 90 gallon reef tank. <This is a very gentle species,
genus...> I have a 4" Bodianus masudai in a 90 gallon along with a
few other fish. <In the same tank?... Might be a problem> The
masudai has only been aggressive to one other fish (a Halichoeres
chrysus that is no longer in the 90 gallon.) Otherwise he seems to leave
everything else alone. I also have a 58 gallon reef tank that is
only 2 months old and has two Tangerine Skunk Clowns (Amphiprion
sandaracinos) and a Candy Hog (Bodianus bimaculatus). <The genus
Bodianus, Hogfishes can be quite territorial...> I would really
rather put the Mystery Wrasse in my 90, it is much more established, and
in a more prominent area of the house, but I hate to take a chance with
a $200 fish. What is your advice? Thanks, Bill Edgel
<... To place this fish in yet another system... not with a
Bodianus/alpha fish present... too similar in appearance, users of
similar niche... Likely to be trouble in either tank here. Research
before you buy... Bob Fenner>
Cocoon Swallowing Wrasse
3/28/06 I have a problem with my Six-Line
Wrasse. For the two weeks that I have had him he has being doing fine
in my 50 gallon tank with his Engineer and Clown Goby pals. This
morning I got up and was surprised to see that my wrasse was still
hanging out in his sleeping cocoon. <Late sleeper?> After
breakfast I saw him spit out and then suck back in a small wad of his
cocoon material. <Not uncommon... some consume this...> He
kept on doing this and it looked like he was choking on it because his
breathing seemed a little labored. That was a few hours ago and I can
no longer see the wad of cocoon that was in his mouth. He keeps his
mouth partially open and swims kind of funny. He will not eat now when
just yesterday he had a huge appetite for the Mysis that I feed him.
<Perhaps it just over-ate?> sometimes he shakes and twitches and I
think the wad of cocoon is still in his throat or something. Is there
anything that I can do to help him? <Mmm, just good care,
maintenance> It is now the next day and he has
disappeared. All day yesterday he was acting as I described above. In
the evening he returned to the hole where he likes to sleep and just sat
there breathing heavily. At this point I could see more cocoon material
hanging out of his mouth. I would have guessed that he spits out mucus
to create the cocoon but I seems to cause him so much trouble. Around
ten thirty I could not find him anywhere and have not seen him since. I
just don't know what to do. He didn't look very happy at all when I saw
him last. Sorry that my original query was not written well. I
didn't realize that was a requirement. <Ah, yes... all is posted...
I wouldn't worry here. If your other livestock and water quality are
fine... Bob Fenner>
Peppermint shrimp to rid Aiptasia ? Or
feed a wrasse? - 2/4/2006 Hello to the crew !
I have a relatively simple 50 gallon reef,
which has slowly been over run with Aiptasia. I went to my LFS and was
told peppermint shrimp should do the trick, so I purchased three of
them. The following day I looked for them and they are no where to be
found ? <Maybe> I'm wondering what could have happened to them.
I only have two fish, one being a yellow tang and the other a six-line
wrasse. <The last could have consumed them> Do either of these
fish have shrimp on the menu ? <Yep> I also lost a cleaner
shrimp about two months ago, which I had for approximately one year. One
day he was there, the next gone. Any clues ? What about the possibility
of a bristle worm ? If one of these guys is the culprit, what is the
best way to deal with my quickly spreading Aiptasia problem ? <See
WWM re... Bob Fenner>
Thanks
for the input.
Trever
from Santa Barbara, Ca.
The Legend of the Predatory Six-Line
- 2/4/2006 Hello gang, <Hi Fred.> your site and
books ;-) have been invaluable to me and I thank you again (and ahead of
time). <Quite welcome.> My issue at hand is my skunk cleaner
shrimp. He is wonderful and cool but he is constantly stepping on my
zoos, mushrooms, yellow polyps and candy cane coral. <Sounds like
normal Lysmata behavior to me.> This causes them to never be fully
open for very long. In addition he steals whatever food they collect.
<Ditto on the above comment.> I cannot use the inverted soda bottle
method because my corals are far to spread out, it would be easier to
place him in a soda bottle (which of course isn't happening). I've
thought about giving him away and replacing him with a six line wrasse.
<For what? These wrasses are not “cleaners”, they will not remove
parasites nor dead tissue from your other animals. A neon goby would be
a much better choice for this.> I've read that the six line would
eat my only hermit crab and eventually eat my snails. <No they stay
relatively small for wrasses, your hermits and herbivorous snails are
safe generally speaking. The six-line wrasse is much more of a threat to
your micro-fauna and ‘pod population than it is your “clean-up” crew.>
So to those who keep six lines, what do you do about algae? <See
above, and remember live animals are not the only way to keep algae at
bay, look into refugiums and nutrient control in general.> I'm
afraid that without my team of snails my tank will be over run with
algae. Will the six line really eat 2" turbo snails? <No.> Or is
he more of a danger to tiny snails? <Very tiny snails, such as those
“pyramid” snails that afflict Tridacnids…many clam keepers love
six-lines for this reason.> I have a 55 with zoos, mushrooms, yellow
polyps, candy cane and a short tentacle plate. Current inhabitants are a
Coral Beauty, 2 Scissortail gobies, red legged hermit crab, few
assorted snails. I'd like to add two ocellaris clowns a six line and a
fridmani Pseudochromis sans the skunk cleaner shrimp of course. Any
thoughts? <I would skip the fridmani, I’d say your full up after the
addition of the clowns and the wrasse.> You guys ROCK!!!!!
<Thank you.> Fred <Adam J.>
My 6 line wrasse needs help 2/1/06 I am trying to
save a 6 line wrasse I bought about 4 weeks ago. It had a large abdomen
at the time but seemed otherwise healthy. Over the last few weeks
its abdomen has swelled greatly. Its now has severe buoyancy problems,
it tries to wedge its self to stay upright and flips upside down if
not moving. Its vent is inflamed, and at times a thick ivory colored
mass seems to protrude then retract. I am treating with MelaFix
<Worse than worthless> in a hospital tank, and suspecting an
intestinal worm or other parasite. <Maybe> The fish is still
eating well. Is there any thing I can do to help this fish or is
euthanasia the best option? Thank you for your help, Kim
<Only if in your opinion the animal is "overly" suffering. I would add a
level teaspoon of Epsom Salt per ten gallons of system water here... and
see if "this too passes". Bob Fenner> Re: my 6 line wrasse needs
help 2/2/06 Hi Bob, Thanks for the response! I will
try your suggestion, I hadn't considered Epsom salt. <A
very useful, inexpensive, readily available, safe cathartic> I did
use Prazipro last night, which is fish Droncit and ordered Discomed on
line last night when no one in town had it. I gave a brief, 2-3 minute
dip, which it didn't seem to enjoy much as it thrashed about, I removed
it when its breathing became labored. But right away worms began being
expelled. <Interesting> They were almost ½ inch long, very
thin on one end with the thicker part the last to come out. <Likely
either nematodes or acanthocephalans> One was still alive but died
right away. I looked at it under a microscope and didn't see any obvious
segments. <Cutting a coronal section near the distal (head) end and
looking end-on may reveal a roundworm definitive triradiate esophagus>
The fish abdomen was much smaller this morning and it seems a bit better
able to maintain its balance. Two more questions if I may: If it
survives, I am wondering how I will know when it is "cured" and safe to
go into a tank? <A few weeks...> This is my first
experience with this problem, so I am also wondering how infectious this
type of problem can be? <Mmm, as in
spreading to other fish species? Not very in general... and all fishes
(and humans for that matter) have gut and parasite fauna> I had
hoped the MelaFix would help with the vent inflammation, I take it your
not a fan. I will stop using it today. <I would (stop)>
Looking forward to seeing you again at the WMC, Morgan tells me he may
be coming as well. It should be a great time. Thanks again for
your help. Kim <Will indeed... and twill be a hoot. See you
then/there. Bob Fenner> Re: Much improved but still has balance
problems... 2/7/06 The 6 line wrasse I wrote you
about is doing much better, the swelling is about gone. Tomorrow will
be 1 week on the dewormer so I plan to stop that treatment.
<Good> I have been using the 1 tsp per gallon Epsom salt treatment
as well. The only remaining symptom is the balance
problem. This hasn't gone away. <May, with time, or
no> Other than a few more days on the Epsom is there anything else
you would suggest to correct this problem? Thanks, Kim <Only
good nutrition and water quality... and precious time going by. Bob
Fenner> |
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