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FAQs on Lined Wrasses, Genus Pseudocheilinus Selection

Related Articles: Lined Wrasses

Related FAQs:  Lined Wrasses 1, Lined Wrasses 2, Lined Wrasse Identification, Lined Wrasse Behavior, Lined Wrasse Compatibility, Lined Wrasse Systems, Lined Wrasse Feeding, Lined Wrasse Disease, Lined Wrasse Reproduction, Wrasses, Wrasses 2Wrasse Identification, Wrasse Behavior, Wrasse Selection, Wrasse Compatibility, Wrasse Systems, Wrasse Feeding, Wrasse Disease, Wrasse Reproduction

Do get along with most invertebrates. Fromia indica. A gorgeous specimen and pic from Scott today.

Sixline Wrasse Pair     1/6/17
Hope your having a good night Bob.
<Hi Jason... This is Gabe>
I have a few questions for you tonight involving a pair of Sixline wrasse I have in my 40G breeder tank. When I bought them they were in the same tank and I watched them for about 20 minutes and saw zero chasing nor any aggression between them and decided to buy them hoping they might be a bonded pair.
<Possibly a bonded pair. Did you talk to the people at the LFS? They may be able to confirm this>
The larger one is about 2 1/2-3 inches and the smaller one about 1 1/2-2 inches and they have been in there together for about 3 weeks. There still is no aggression nor any chasing and they often swim near each other.
<Sounds good>
The both eat well and pick thru the live rock. In the tank with them is a fat 3 inch Singapore Angel that will get moved in the next few months,
<This angelfish will need to be moved as soon as you can. Singapore Angels should be in tanks of 120 gallons or larger
>
a tuxedo urchin,
<Be aware that Sixlines enjoy picking at Urchins. It is one of their favorite live foods>

two large peppermint shrimp, some Xenia, some mushrooms, Tongue coral, and some Duncan's. There is also zero aggression between the wrasses and the Angel.
<This is good, but the angel will still need to be moved regardless of how happy it is now.>
Do you think they may be a pair and stay relatively peaceful towards one another or do you think they will eventually fight with one another?
<I can't honestly say for sure. I have personally kept pairs of Sixlines in the past but only because I can confirm with the wholesaler that they are a pair. Only time will tell. If you do notice any aggression at all, you should move one of them.>
Do you think removing the Angel could change the dynamics between the wrasses?
<It could, but I don't think it is likely>
After removing the Angel I would like to add something else but don't want to chance changing the dynamics between the two Sixlines, any thoughts?
<It is up to you. You can pick and choose specimens that you want, and experiment with what works and what doesn't>
I have a juvenile red Coris wrasse around 2 1/2 inches
<Not reef safe or invert safe. They will eat your corals and the peppermint shrimp>

and a 2 1/2 inch Ctenochaetus binotatus in separate quarantine tanks right now.
<The tang could work with the wrasses>
Do you think the Singapore Angel, juvenile red Coris wrasse, and Ctenochaetus binotatus would be ok together in a 55G until I set up the 6ft 135G I have in the garage or should I leave in quarantine until the 135G is setup which might take up to 6 months from now?
<I see now... You weren't planning on putting the Coris wrasse in the 40 gallon. My bad. If you think it is going to take you six months to set up the tank, I would definitely leave the two in quarantine. It would be better for them both>
Thanks in advance for any and all help and advice. I really appreciate the hard work you and your team do to keep this website up and running with the valuable information it contains. Have a great night! Jason
<Thanks for using WetWeb, Jason. Feel free to contact us again if you have any further questions. Cheers, Gabe>
Re: Sixline Wrasse Pair    1/7/17

Thanks for the reply Gabe!
<My pleasure, Jason>
I really do enjoy reading the website and learning, just ask my wife.
<Haha! I believe you>
You are correct that is was never my intention to put the Red Coris in the 40 due to their eventual size and the fact they would eat what I have in the tank.
<Glad to hear it. The Coris would've demolished everything it could>
Based off of your comment about the tang do you think it would be ok in the 40 at least till I make room in one of my 75g if not long term, I know 40 is small when it comes to tangs.
<The tang should be in a 75 or larger as you already know. It really depends on how long it will take to get the 75 gallon ready. How big is the QT tank that it is currently in?>
I can't really move the Singapore right now as it was originally intended for the 75g till the 135 could be setup but the Powder Blue Tang that is in there didn't take too kindly to his presence which isn't unexpected and I'm not sure the Singapore is big enough at 3 inches for the 5-6 inch Rhinopias that is in my other 75G.
<You really need to find a tank for the angel. You might have to move some other things around to find it a home.>
I know some of the animals I have are in too small of a tank but IME they should be fine in the short term and took advantage of acquiring healthy individuals.
<It pains me to admit it, but I have kept large fish in small tanks as well. It really depends on the health of the fish, how happy it is and how it behaves in the tank. Some species do better than others in small(er) tanks.>
Thanks again! Jason
<The pleasure is all mine, Jason. Write us any time you need help, and let me know if you have any further questions. Cheers, Gabe>

Pseudocheilinus tetrataenia (RMF, any comments on the genus and centrepiece fish generally)<<Oh yes. Writing re currently>>   12/29/10
On a distantly-related note; I have decided to maintain only one solitary fish in my 29 gallon tank. For the record, I did successfully find suitable homes for and relocate my other pets. :)
<Cool.>
Understocking is definitely the way to go, and I have been trying to pick a good fish (one that does well on its own). I think I'm going to keep a single wrasse; most likely a Pseudocheilinus tetrataenia (or a Pseudocheilinus tetrataenia if I can find one).
<<...? Do you mean a hexataenia... Sixline, as an alternative? Both are suitable here, as solo fishes>>
Going by the rather strict and conservative stocking guidelines of WWM, is this a good situation for the fish?
<I haven't kept wrasse for a long time -- I'm more interesting in freshwater fish -- but my experiences of Pseudocheilinus hexataenia at least were entirely positive. Not reef-safe fish perhaps because of their
tendency to nibble at tubeworms and such, but the genus tends to be fairly peaceful by wrasse standards. Do read Bob's piece here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pseudocheilinus.htm >
I know people have WAY more fish in even smaller tanks but I want to keep my water quality high and my fish happy. The main disadvantage of these wrasses seems to be potential aggression, but as a solo fish, I don't see that being a problem.
<Indeed.>
Another question - when kept solo, will the coloration of these lined wrasses diminish as greatly as the male flasher wrasses without the presence of females?
<No, in fact these wrasses aren't sexually dimorphic at all, so far as I know.>
<<This is so>>
I'd also appreciate any personal recommendations (i.e. what would you do) for a single, solitary fish in this much tank, especially if the wrasses suggested aren't ideal solo fish.
<I'm a very big fan of Hawkfish as centrepiece fish, thanks to their combination of near-legendary hardiness and overall peacefulness towards stuff they can't swallow whole. I've also had good success with Hogfish, though these are a bit large and predatory, so somewhat difficult to keep in community settings if tankmates aren't chosen with care. In recent years Filefish have become more available, in the UK at least. I think they combine much of the good things about triggerfish without their bad points.>
Thanks!
Victor
<Cheers, Neale.>

Just a quick stocking question. 11/14/10
Hey Crew,
<Eli>
I have a 27 gallon aquarium, Which currently houses one orange spotted shrimp goby, two peppermint shrimp , two scarlet hermit crabs and a couple of blue legged hermits. Along with some pulsing xenia and metallic green star polyps. I wanted to add maybe one or two more fish and be completed with my setup. Aside from corals and more live rock to be added later. But back to my question do you think it would be ok to add a Pygmy angelfish (*Centropyge argi) followed by a Sixline wrasse? *
<I do think the Cherub would be a fab addition, but if you go w/ this Pseudocheilinus species (I would not) DO keep an eye on it... this sp. can be VERY picky, as in picking on other livestock, particularly in small volumes such as yours>
*Thanks in advance for any info!*
*you guys are awesome.*
**
*Eli*
<Thank you. Bob Fenner>
Re: Just a quick stocking question.
Thanks so much for your quick response! On your advice I won't even try the six line wrasse. Do you think 2 or 3 blue green Chromis would be alright or am I borderline overstocking?
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chromis.htm
and the linked files above. B>
Thanks again,
Eli
Re: Just a quick stocking question. 11/14/10
I immediately read your link. Definitely got my answer, I think ill just stick to the angel. Thanks so Much for your input.
Eli
<Ah good. B>

Mystery Wrasse Harem Possible?  9/22/10
Hello Crew,
<Cassidy>
Just a quick question this time J Is it possible to have a harem of either 3 or 5 Mystery Wrasses together in a 300G?
<Mmm, yes... this is one of the more asocial members of the genus though... and not easily sexed. I would only try a pair here myself... and have the means (a tough job, likely requiring removing all decor, other sessile livestock) to separate them>
There are currently no other wrasses in the tank. It houses 3 tangs, 4 clowns, a few blennies, flame angel, 5 Anthias, and 2 Chromis.
I could not really find any info about this online or WetWebMedia.
<Me neither>
Do they change sex?
<Yes... are protogynic... like other Labrids>
Or would they need to be purchased as a certain sex?
<Can, could be purchased as smaller (hopefully) initial state/females. I have never seen juveniles offered in the trade, and only rarely seen this fish while out diving in Australia period>
What ratio is ideal? All female and one male? Or partners? Or??
<Again, congeners (members of the same genus) are encountered most often as individuals, then pairs... I have not personally ever seen Pseudocheilinus spp. in a haremic or shoaling arrangement>
Thanks for any info you may have,
Cassidy
<Welcome! Please do relate your observations re this species behavior. Bob Fenner>
Re: Mystery Wrasse Harem Possible?
Bob,
<Cass>
Thanks for your input. Just ordered two 'smallish' ones to try out here.
I will let you know how things progress. I am going to see what happens.
I have another tank if they decide they hate each other.
<Ah, good>
Hopefully they will play nice.
-Cassidy
<Let's hope! Cheers, BobF>

Lined Wrasse sel., ID  10/16/08 Hello I have had luck with the 6 line wrasse, but in the past have had no luck keeping the 12 line wrasse... I was wondering if they are not as good shippers as the 6 line or if I am just doing something wrong. <The "twelve line" that is the eight-line (this and the four are mistakenly sold/labeled/called the twelve) is a bit more skittish, does not adapt as easily, well as the four and six line. The Fourline is about the same in hardiness as the Six> The 12 line is also not found as often as the 6 line... Any ideas to keeping one of these??? Pseudocheilinus tetrataenia <The four-line? It's care, housing is identical to the six... Pretty much as the bit-larger 12... See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/pseudocheilinus.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> Thank you, Paul
Re: Lined Wrasse sel., ID   10/17/08
Bob, <Pablo> So what you are saying is basically once you have one adapted.. they are about the same to take care of as the six line or do they have more requirements? <The former... very similar> Thank you again Bob... Paul <Welcome. B>

Wrasse question... Lined comp., Flashers sel.  -- 1/26/08 Hello Bob and Crew, A quick thank you for helping me so much with this hobby. Your site and books are invaluable. I have a 125g reef tank with 100 pounds of live rock, 130 pounds of live sand and miscellaneous corals. My question is, with a six line wrasse in the tank, could I add 1 male flasher wrasse and two females without the six line attacking them? <Likely so here in this volume, shape system> I've read that flashers get along with other wrasse and that you need a few females in order for the male to flash. <This is so... and possibly another male> I'm just uncertain about how the six line will behave. <Lined wrasses can indeed be "bullies", but you very likely have enough room here...> There are lots of hiding places and space in the tank as I hardly have much livestock to speak of. Thanks! Just incase you were wondering 3 Chromis 1 scribbled Rabbitfish 1 six line wrasse 2 pajama cardinals 1 juvenile orange shoulder tang <Interesting... will be the alpha animal here in time> 1 juvenile hippo tang 2 skunk cleaner shrimp basic small clean up crew, snails, crabs, etc. thank you, Alan <Bob Fenner>

Wrasse compatibility <Actually sel. to eat/control>, red bugs, <and comp. w/> Anthias    9/11/07  Hi Crew, Would you be able to help with the best choice for a small wrasse that likes to eat Acropora red bugs? <Um, this is not how one deals with red bugs.> From reading the FAQs it looks like the Six Line is an option, but I've seen them be aggressive and I have a trio of Bartlett's Anthias that I wouldn't want to be harassed. The tank is a 135G reef with 100+ lbs of live rock. Can you think of a small, red bug eating wrasse (or other fish/invert) that would tend to be less territorial than a Six Line? And do you think I would need more than one bug-eater in this size tank? <If you have a red bug infestation, you need to treat it with Interceptor. There's no aquarium fish (known to aquarists) that will solve this problem. See here: http://www.ericborneman.com/Tegastes-content/Dorton%20treatment.htm And maybe here too: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acrodisfaqs.htm> Thanks, Tom <De nada, Sara M.>
Re: Wrasse compatibility, red bugs, Anthias   9/12/07
Hi Sara, Thank you, I do like getting more than one opinion because I did see suggestions in the WWM FAQs to "consider stocking some small wrasses", or to try a "Red Sea Pseudochromid, small wrasse" when I searched WWM for info on red bugs. <Yes, one of the cool things about WWM is that it stores queries spanning several years (and from many different people). The use of Interceptor for red bugs is still a very new idea. Dorton developed his protocol in 2004 (just 3 years ago). You must have read some of the responses of Eric R. who is not so warm to the idea of using of Interceptor or any such deadly (and largely under-studied) medication on whole systems. See here for his take on it: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/swmitefaqs.htm. Generally, I certainly agree with him. I do think aquarists often jump to extreme treatments too quickly. I even did it myself in my first response to your query. I jumped to the conclusion that you must have a pervasive and devastating infestation of the dreaded Tegastes acroporanus. But I did you a disservice in not explaining the very real possibility that these bugs you have might not be T. acroporanus. Regarding fish, many of them eat little bugs. And some fish are not so picky and could eat red bugs along with everything else they might be hunting. And so in that way, they might serve as a bit of a preventive measure. However, anyone who's ever had a really bad red bug infestation will tell you that the fish just don't eat them fast enough even when they do eat them.> Also saw replies that made me think these critters may not be that much of a problem, potentially being more commensal than parasitic. <Please accept my apologies for not thinking to mention this myself. It is a possibility. However, finding them on dying corals does make them a bit more suspect. Still, they could just be scavengers.> What has your experience been with red bugs...big problem, or not so big? <I've personally never had Tegastes acroporanus. However, I have been scared by many different hardly visible "bugs" I've seen crawling on my coral. I once had some that looked just like red bugs except that they were black. There are just soooo many different types of "bugs" that can get into our aquariums. See here: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-10/rs/index.php Certainly there are people who can tell you all about how red bugs destroyed whole colonies of their corals. Others may tell you that they've seen them in their tank and they never became a problem. Personally, I wonder if the people who claim to have them but that the bugs never became a problem truly had red bugs (i.e. Tegastes acroporanus) and not some other kind of less aggressive copepod (like maybe my "black bugs" which disappeared as mysteriously and they came).> The red bug infestation in my tank seems to be limited to a few of the weaker-looking Acro frags/small colonies, at least so far. I'm not sure if the red bugs are causing these Acros to be slower growing and have poor polyp extension, or if it's the other way around. <very astute and good question to be thinking about> I do pay close attention to the water conditions and husbandry, and have several other Acros and other SPS (Stylophora, Montipora, Seriatopora) that show good color, polyps, and growth. I've just figured that some specimens don't do as well in aquariums as others do, or at least in mine. <This is possible. Or, you could have the dreaded red bugs. Hmm, this is where a picture could help.> Also, thank you for the Borneman link. If I do go with the Interceptor treatment, could you help clarify a couple of things for me? Since several of these Acros are growing on very large pieces of live rock that are integral to the support structure, removing them for treatment would be difficult...would you consider treating your whole tank if you were in my situation? <Actually, the protocol described on that site (developed by Dustin Dorton) calls for both quarantining of the corals AND treatment of the whole tank. However, as mentioned, the use of Interceptor is still a new idea. If you can confirm that you actually do have the predatory red bugs (and not just some kind of scavenging copepod), you could experiment with just treating the whole tank with a low dose (without removing the corals). However, you should definitely try to make sure you actually do have Tegastes acroporanus before trying this.> I don't keep any crabs or shrimp. I know the pods would suffer, but those could be re-seeded. Also, is Interceptor considered safe for Crocea clams? From what I've read, it appears to be safe but would like to get your view. <I don't see any reason to expect Interceptor to hurt clams. Clams are quite dissimilar from crustaceans biologically. But again [the disclaimer] we just don't know a lot about this medication when using it on an entire 'ecosystem.' > Thanks, Tom <Thank you for the thought provoking query, Sara M.> <<Well done Sara. RMF>>
Re: Wrasse compatibility, red bugs, Anthias
Sara, thank you very much for your time and advice. I'll see if I can get my hands on a better camera, but here's the best picture I could get with the camera I have. The color of this 1.5" Acro frag is normally more yellow, but is lately a lighter shade. You can see what looks like small reddish "bugs" on it. <Ugh, yeah, it does look like these could be the bad guys. Have you tried to blow them off with a powerhead? ...because the bad ones tend to cling on hard to the coral and are difficult to remove. If the damage seems slow and confined to a few corals, you can still wait and see what happens with them. But if they start jumping to other Acropora colonies, I'd seriously start thinking about the Interceptor. You could always start off with a very low dose...> Tom <Best, Sara M.>

Stocking Question: 75 Gallon Reef Tank. Tang and Wrasse? Stocking Question For A 75G Reef 'A Little Paranoia Can Be A Good Thing -- 09/01/07 Hello Crew Member, <<Hello Skot>> Awesome site. <<Thank you>> You've turned what was potentially an expensive and frustrating hobby into a rewarding and very expensive hobby ;) <<Ha, indeed!>> Seriously though, your site has kept me from "giving up" through a series of unfortunate events including a leaky tank, leaky protein skimmer and suspect stand'¦ All problems I've solved with the help of your site. Thanks. <<We are pleased to know this>> Now for my Question. I have a 75 gallon acrylic tank. Around 80lbs of live rock. 3 inches of sand. Euro-Reef RS 80 skimmer. <<Good skimmer>> 30 gallon sump with refugium (incidentally I'm completely fascinated by the refugium. When my main display lights go out and the refuge lights come on I sit and stare at all the life in there. Really cool.) <<Oh yes 'much interesting life to be observed in these 'protected' environments that is overlooked/not seen/even missing, in the main display tank>> This setup is about 3 months old and I plan to make it a reef tank. A majority of the water, sand and rock are from a 1 year old 55gallon system I was running. I've got 20 misc snails and another 20 misc hermits. I purchased the Indio-Pacific Sea Farms Refugium Starter Kit about 6 weeks ago for my refugium which also contains some Miracle Mud, sand, and live rock. I've 2 Percula Clowns, 2 Banggai Cardinals and 1 Orange Sleeper Goby (all from my previous tank). I also have a small patch of mushrooms and a small patch of zoos. Levels are: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 5ppm, <<Do strive to keep this from climbing any higher>> 79 degrees, pH 8.2, sg 1.22. <<This last should be at NSW levels (1.025/1.026)>> I'm paranoid about overstocking. <<Mmm, yes 'this will prove to be to your (and your livestock's) benefit>> There are two additional fish I have my eye on for down the line. First I'm interested in the six line wrasse. <<Can be nasty little buggers>> My research suggests I have room for this fish as it stays relatively small and appears compatible with my current livestock. Is my assessment correct? <<In this instance, yes, I believe so 'but addition of this wrasse will likely mean you won't be able to add any other similarly sized/shaped fishes after it becomes established>> Next I'm interested in a Yellow Tang. <<Mmm 'I knew there was going to be a 'tang in the mix'>> I realize my tank is the minimum recommended size for this fish. <<Yes>> Would it be wiser for me to steer clear of this guy? <<Hmm'¦considering the size/number of tankmates, the fact you don't have a 'tank full' of rock which will allow this fish room to move around, and considering the refugium'¦yes, I think adding a Yellow Tang will be fine here>> Is my tank already reaching capacity? <<Not 'right now''¦but will be close once you add the tang>> Will my additional (sump/fuge) 30gallons of water flow help provide a good home for this tang? <<That 'and the other considerations I mentioned>> If the tang is a "no" do I have room for another smaller fish or am I at capacity? <<Adding the tang will be fine>> Sorry to bombard you with questions. <<No worries>> I've been at the hobby for a little over a year now and I consider myself a fairly disciplined person. I have no desire to irresponsibly overstock my tank or make a foolish misstep that can be avoided. Having said that, there's a whole lot I don't know. <<Ah well then 'there's much reading/research ahead of you my friend>> Thanks for the help, Skot <<Happy to assist. EricR>>

Vietnamese" Sixline Wrasse 3/3/2004 Dear Crew Member: I was at my LFS yesterday, and they have now added the prefix "Vietnamese" to their sixline wrasses.  I do not currently have a world atlas, so I would like to know if this counts as Indo-Pacific or what?  Either way, is this location considered ideal for this species, or can you think of any other reason why they would indicate it's location?  They do not mention it for their other fish.  Thanks, Rich <Hi Rich.  livestock sometimes carries the country of origin as a way to imply quality since some areas of collection have better reputations than others.  I don't know that Vietnam has a particularly good reputation, but livestock from Vietnam is a relative novelty in the trade (but becoming more common).   In most cases, by the time a fish gets to the retailer, there is no way to trace where it came from, and that is why it is uncommon for the country of origin to be listed.  Best Regards.  Adam>

- Six Line, Eight Line, Who's Counting? - Hi crew, <Hi.> A few weeks ago, I bought what was supposed to be a 6-line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) from my LFS.  After closer observation and a quick review at fishbase.org, it appears that this fish was actually an 8-line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus octotaenia).  Unfortunately, the wrasse died mysteriously after 2 week in my QT so I was never able to see it swim in my 180g reef tank.  Bob suggested a shorter QT period for wrasses (with a FW dip) in one of my previous emails so I will try this next time. My questions now are: 1.  Are there advantages/disadvantages of an 8-line wrasse vs. 6-line?  (I have read several WWM postings about aggressive 8-lie wrasses, but 6-line wrasse comments seem to be generally positive). <Not really... they both fill a very similar niche. Personally, I've found sixline wrasses to be just as pugnacious as eight lines... typically once they've been in the tank for a while. Either way, with some larger fish around they tend to stay in line, pardon the terrible pun.> 2. I would also like to add a flasher wrasse, such as a Paracheilinus carpenteri and a canary wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus).  Would these wrasses live peacefully with a 6-line or 8-line wrasse? <I think so, sure. I have a mix of wrasses in my tank... they tend not to bother each other, although my Tuskfish does have its grumpy moments and chases the fairy and mystery wrasses around, nothing ever results from it [no damage].> (I also have a mixture of several tangs, a pair of maroon clowns, Banggai cardinals, mandarin and Firefish - all established for nearly 2 years). 3.  Since carpenter wrasses are difficult to find, could you recommend a similar flasher wrasse that would live peacefully in my tank? <Seems to me that these aren't all that hard to find... when working in a fish store in San Diego, we used to get these in pretty regularly and on demand. Depending on where you live, you may end up having to use The Marine Center or similarly well connected online supplier.> 4.  Since the QT period should be cut short, how much QT time is adequate to catch any problems yet not over-stress the fish? <With these fish, you'd almost do best to just give them a pH-adjusted, freshwater dip and put them directly in the display. If you do quarantine, a week should do... would give the fish time to relax, not be hassled by other fish/competition.> Is iodine helpful in a dip for fish or is this only useful for corals? <Really best left to the corals.> I typically use Methylene blue for freshwater fish dips but, considering this reduced QT period, I am not sure is this is adequate. <The Methylene blue doesn't really provide much in the way of direct therapy in a dip - it's dark color and oxygenating properties help calm the fish, but you could just as easily go without this additive. A good long dip - five minutes plus should do the trick.> As always, thank you for taking the time to help all of us with our questions -  There is a wealth of invaluable information on wetwebmedia.com! <Cheers, J -- >
- Six Line, Eight Line, Who's Counting? Follow-up -
Thank you for the advice regarding wrasse selection for my tank. <My pleasure.> So it sounds like there should be no difference in aggression between a 6-line and an 8-line wrasse but I forgot to mention one other key consideration...  I was also considering the 6-line wrasse to help control flatworms. It seems that 6-line wrasses are always mentioned to help reduce flatworm populations but I have not noticed 8-line wrasses mention for such use. Are 8-line wrasses equally efficient at reducing flatworm populations (as 6-line wrasses)? <While I've heard that sixline wrasses "can" control flatworms, I've yet to actually see one do it. That doesn't mean that your Pseudocheilinus wrasse won't eat flatworms, but I also wouldn't bet the bank on it. I would guess, however, that the sharp eyes and diet preferences would be similar throughout the genus.> Thanks again for the help! --Greg
<Cheers, J -- >

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