Newish SW system, yellowing   6/9/08
Hello,
first I want to say thanks for helping out people like me that love this hobby. I have a couple of questions. i have a new 75g Oceanic with a Oceanic 20g wet/dry with bio media, and Oceanic skimmer, wave maker with four power heads for current, MagDrive 7 for the sump, Lighting I have a coral life double actinic 65w and double white light 65w also for lighting 2 -48" coral life and lunar lights, I also have a pump for air to the bio-media chamber inside the sump and an extra air hose airing the media balls. My tank runs at temp 77-79. I've had it running for 7 days with nothing but semi live rock and the sand from my old tank.
Now my tank has a yellow brownish tint to it, I just added reef active carbon. hope it will work. Now should i use carbon?
<Mmm, yes... likely a good idea. I take it the system is/will be pretty much pre-cycled from moving so much of the older tanks contents>
What's wronged with my tank?
<Likely just microbial/algal proliferation...>
I just bought an red sea ozoniser should I use it now or wait till later?
<I would add, turn it on>
Any advise will be greatly appreciated. what should I run the ozone at?
<Perhaps a "target" of about 325 micro-Siemens per cm... with an upper limit of 375>
Thank you
GARCIA, JORGE
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Dropped a Tiny Screw in My Saltwater Tank – 05/23/08
Hi Eric,
<<Hello Michael>>
I have a problem.
<<Uh oh>>
Accidentally dropped a (tiny) screw into my tank.
<<Mmm, I see (I wonder how you say “oh crap!” in Danish? [grin] >>
Tried to find it, but was unsuccessful (Actually, almost turned the tank upside down to find it). What do I do? Please don’t tell me that I have to break down the tank.
<<Ah, not at all my friend… The “tiny screw” will very likely pass unnoticed in your system. But for some added peace of mind; if you aren’t already doing so, you can add a heavy-metal scavenging media like Poly-Filter to your filtration system (I would (I do!) run this media all the time).
Thanks,
Michael Fick
Denmark
<<Regards, Eric Russell…South Carolina, USA>>

RE: Dropped a Tiny Screw in My Saltwater Tank – 05/24/08
Hi Eric,
<<Hello Michael>>
Thanks for your reply.
<<Quite welcome>>
That was a relief!
<<Ah good>>
So you don’t think there will be a "Rust issue?"
<<Considering the amount of metal and the volume of water involved…no>>
That was my primary concern.
<<I don’t really think you need be>>
I don’t think that Poly-Filters are available in Denmark, but I will check it out.
<<Hmm…perhaps an Internet order then…>>
Thanks Eric
<<My pleasure, Michael>>
P.S. The Danish translation for "oh crap!" is "Sikke noget lort!"
<<Haha! Thank you for this my friend. Eric Russell>>

High ORP Readings 5/16/08
Hi team,
<Hi Dave>
My ORP readings consistently range from ~450 first thing in the morning before the lights come on, dipping to ~425 by the end of the day. Then they rise through the night cycle and repeat again the next day. They've been like this for some 9+ months ever since setting up my 900l reef system.
<I little on the high side.>
I've read that readings over 400 can be dangerous but touch wood I haven't had any casualties for either fish or inverts. Current hosts are a 4" Hippo Tang, a 4" Yellow Tang, a 3" Potter's Angel, 2 Yellow Tailed Damsels and a cleaner shrimp. There are 2 mushroom corals, a large pulsating xenia, a small euphyllia torch coral and 2 trachyphyllia. All are thriving in the 650 l main display with 120kg of live rock. There is a 250 l sump/refugium that has a 6" DSB, 20kg of live rock and an abundance of Caulerpa verticalla running under 2 x T5 daylight tubes on reverse cycle to the display.  I do have an ozoniser which is set to come on at readings below 350 and turn off at 400 and feeds into the venturi of my Aqua Medic skimmer. The ORB probe is connected to this unit and the probe is submerged in the baffles prior to the sump return chamber. With readings always over the 400 mark, this unit has rarely come on save for once when I was away on holiday over Christmas for 3 weeks and hadn't done a water change for several weeks. Upon return the readings were down to 320. I did a good sized (20%) water change and the readings returned to their 400+ state.  I also have 2 x 25 UV which are in line on the output of 2 x Eheim Pro II canister filters that contain mechanical filtration, carbon and PO4 absorbent material. These are maintained every 4 weeks at least.
Water parameters are perfect. OK just kidding :-) here they are...
Salinity 1.026
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Temp 25C - 26C
PH 8.0 - 8.2
Calcium 450
Q. Should I be concerned with these high ORP readings?
<I'm almost certain your probe needs to be checked with a calibration solution. Your readings should be closer to 350 in your system. I'd really be surprised if indeed they were that high. James (Salty Dog)>
Cheers
Dave

29 gallon reef not looking good. 05/10/2008
I have a problem and I am not sure what it is. Three days ago all my corals shrunk up and are not looking good, I need some advice.
<Ok>>
First of all, I have been running this tank for years with no problems, I installed a gate vale inline in the sump for the pump and that is when I noticed a problem. Could there be contaminates in the valve that are causing my tank major stress?
<<Highly doubt>>
Here is what I have:
29 gal tank
30 lbs live rock with 2" sand and crushed coral bed
Euro reef skimmer
Mag 5 return with CPR overflow
250 watt MH 10000K 14" above tank
Salinity 1.025
Ph 8.1
Amm/Nitite/nitrate - 0
Alk 10 dkh
Ca 380 ppm <<A little low>><Hmm... not necessarily for these types of corals. -Sara M.>
Phosphate 0
Livestock - Frogspawn, colonial polyps, mushrooms, other polyp I am not sure what it is - Coral banded shrimp - clown fish - watchman goby. The fish seem normal even though the goby is not as active. The shrimp seems like he is not doing well. He is not moving and was wondering if he was going to shed his skin and it is just coincidence.
<<More info is really required. Lighting times, feeding times, foods etc etc. How often do you water change, and how much?
Like I said everything was looking good and now it is really hating it.
Any help would be great.
<<Thanks, A Nixon>>

Good intentions, but now I'm stuck... 4/21/08
Crew,
<Hello, Scott V. with you.>
Thanks so much for the great resource you've got here!
<Thank you!!>
I hope I make it far enough in the hobby to use them beyond this week!
<You assuredly will.>
I've been trying to search for some answers on your site as to my particular problem, but I didn't see any - hopefully, this is not a repost. I recently got some live sand (20 lbs) and water in the hopes of helping to cycle my first 20g tank along. In addition to water, I also got a heater, some test kits, a powerhead, and a filter.
<What kind of filter, size?>
I kept the sand sealed in two large Ziploc bags filled with the tank water, and brought it all home. The next day, I placed the sand into my new aquarium with the water, envisioning a neat little micro-community.
<Any truly live sand should be added ASAP, before the bags become anoxic.>
Unfortunately, it seems things have taken a turn for the worse. Over the last two days, I've been noticing an increasing amount of light brownish detritus covering my sand bed, and I've noticed that the water is starting to smell 'funny'. My test kits showed about a .5 on my ammonia (yikes!), a 3.5 ppm on my nitrite, and an alarming 200 ppm on my nitrate - as dark as it could get.
<Hmm, not good.>
Water is a decent 76F, and specific gravity is 1.025.
<Good numbers.>
Is there any hope?
<Oh yes.>
LFS guy said I should just scrap the whole thing and start over, but I found this advice to be a bit suspect as he proceeded to quote me the prices on everything I would need to "start it right this time", which came out to well over a hundred dollars.
<I feel the same way here.>
Any advice would be most appreciated!
<Without knowing your filtration specifics, if the sand was truly live, it was likely killed off by a night in the Ziploc bags. This accounts for your high readings. Give it time, the numbers will go down (except nitrates, need some water changes) as the tank continues to cycle. Starting over will accomplish nothing. If anything needs to be replaced it is the water, hardly $100! The sand can and should be rinsed to remove any dead matter. The water quality will not ruin the filter or tank. Wait this out before adding any livestock.>
Thanks in advance,
DS
<Welcome, Scott V.>

White specks 4-19-08
Hi Crew,
<How goes it? Mike with you today>
Great Site, a real Godsend.
<Thanks - it helps us all>
My tank is battling an infestation of a small white flake like organism that swims around in the water and irritate the fish. I believe my fish are stressed and flashing against rocks and the tank to relieve themselves. Could you please recommend a course of treatment?
<Weird. Do you have a picture? Also, what are you water parameters and inhabitants?>
I have a seventy five litre tank with an Eheim canister filter, air pump and air disk. In my battle with the "organism" I recently removed the crushed coral as it contained multiple small organisms in it, which I suspected may have been connected to white flake in the water.
Thank you in advance for your help, Warm Regards,
<Get back to me, but do read regarding curing marine ich...likely the popular 'cures' to marine ich will also eliminate this parasite>
Darren
<M. Maddox>

Help please my water went cloudy white, SW... BTA sucked up...  03/05/2008
Hi Crew, love your website and am learning a lot from it ( thank you )
<<Hello, Andrew today, and thanks for the comments>>
Could you please help me with my marine tank problem?
<<I'll do my best>>
Tank is 220L volume and this morning i came downstairs to find the water in the tank had gone very cloudy white.
I have since found out what it is, believe it or not the bubble anemone had been sucked into my 6000lph powerhead.
<<Such a shame to hear this>>
My question is this, will this kill my canister filters and what do i have to do to the water in my tank now.
<<No, it wont kill your canister filters, simply keep good water changes, and the tank will clear up soon enough>>
I have changed 20% of the water (RO) that's all i had made up ready. The problem is i am away now for four days. The tank has now cleared and tested the water NH4,NO2,NO3,PH salt and temperature are all fine.
<<As long as all the above tests are showing up correctly, i would not worry about this issue, maybe just learn from it>>
My fish and feather dusters, corals and crabs seem fine also.
<<This is good>>
I would be grateful if you could help me with this cloudy water problem ( it is not cloudy now but is the water contaminated )
<<You did the right thing by attacking the issue with water changes. It should be fine now its cleared>>
Thank you so much. Regards..........Martin Steelton
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Salinity and other water chem Q's  2-10-08
Hi gang. I love the site. It's the best reference on the web!
<Thanks - I agree>
I had a couple of questions for you. First my tank and parameters. I have a 92 gal. corner bow, about a 30 gal. refugium, and a 30 gal. sump. I cycled it with 100lbs. of live rock and its been up for 5 weeks.? Here's some pics.
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc57/tonycip111/IMGP1047.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc57/tonycip111/IMGP1049.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc57/tonycip111/IMGP1061.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc57/tonycip111/IMGP1060.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc57/tonycip111/IMGP1062.jpg[/IMG]
I made the stand and hood. Niceeee!!!
<Yes it is, it looks really good. Nice job>
Sorry, back to the subject, the water parameters.
pH is between 8.17 to 8.24 depending on time of day.
SG 1.026.
alkalinity 11dkh or 3.93l.
Ammonia .1 (I find it vary hard to read. I use the LaMotte and the 0.05,and the.1 are all close variations of yellow) I tried a dip stick, but it's not sensitive enough. Do you know of one that might be easier to read. If this is right, I don't know why. All I have in the tank is about 40 various snails to clean up the algae and 2 peppermint shrimp to eat up the 6 or so pest anemones (which there not doing! I can't even find them!)
<Looks good to me, except the ammonia obviously. There are a couple of possibilities here - that the rock is still curing, that you don't have enough water flow, or that you don't have enough rock. I'd be inclined to think the first one. What's your (hopefully random, turbulent) water flow look like? Regarding the 'pest' anemones, which I'm assuming are Aiptasia or Majano, I would run the tank 'stockless' and feed very little, while attempting to manually remove the ones you find. These guys could be a nightmare if not taken care of soon!>
I also seem to have about 4 clams of some sort, also on the rock. They open and close so I know there alive; could they be a problem?
<No, beneficial if anything>
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 2
Carbon dioxide <7 (another hard to read LaMotte kit.)
Dissolved oxygen 6.2 low?
<No>
Calcium 330
Magnesium 1275
Silica 0
Phosphate .1 (I also have a phosphate reactor running. I don't know why its still .1.)
<Due to the dieoff/cycling...change your media>
Looking at this data, what jumps out at you?
<Nothing, other than the ammonia>
My thoughts are (other then the ammonia) calcium is low.
<Looks fine to me...a little on the low side, but that allows for a higher alkalinity which I prefer anyway, unless you plan on having several Tridacnids>
How would you raise it? by adding:
a) Kalkwasser (drip)
b) turbo calcium (Kent)
c) liquid calcium (Kent)
d) reef calcium (SeaChem)
e) none of the above
<Kalkwasser is always my preferred method of calcium delivery, whether via drip, shot, in the top off water, or via reactor>
This is what I have on hand.
I have something that I don't know what they are, I have about 3 of them in the rock. They have 8 arms that look like roots which they extend to filter feed. They take 1 arm at a time, and put it in their mouth. It's fascinating to watch. Here's a pic. What do you think this is? Or where do I even begin to look to find out?
[IMG] http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc57/tonycip111/IMGP1065.jpg[/IMG]
there's two visible in/on this rock.
<Looks like it could be a Crinoid - see if you can get a clearer pic. By the way, where did your order your live rock, and where is it from geographically? Looks like very nice rock!>
Thanks for your time and expertise.
<Anytime, get back to me about the water movement, but I'm betting your ammonia is due to your live rock, which seems to be covered in animals, which leads to an increase in die-off vs. less populated rock. I'm betting your ammonia goes away given another week or so>
Tony
<M. Maddox>

Re: Salinity and other water chem Q's Part II   2-11-08
Thanks for the fast reply. Here's what I have for water flow. From the sump, a blue-line 1000, pumping about 650 gal.hr. In the tank there's a mag 18(supposedly 1800 gal/hr) in a closed loop which is built in the hood- see pic.
I also have 2 Koralia power heads. 1 is 1200 gal/hr; the other is 600 gal/hr. see pics.
<Looks good>
The live rock. 50 lbs., came from http://www.gulf-view.com/prem_coraline.html
It looked like it came right out of the ocean.
<Yes, it does - I've been on reefs that didn't have rock that nice!>
He sent it air freight same day, and I picked it up at the airport as soon as it arrived,
with minimum time out of water. 80 lbs of Fiji came from Mr Marine on e-bay, and was stripped pretty clean.
I kind of scrubbed off the Florida rock when I got it. It had some sponges on it, and I scrubbed most of them off except this one in the pic.
Since then, it has cracked, and it looks like copepods or something are crawling in it, and it has pitted up some. Could this be my ammonia problem?
<Possibly/partly...as I said earlier, things will be dying, especially off of rock that populated, and IMO all will be fine given another 1-2 weeks. Patience>
Should I remove it?
<Only if it's obviously dying/decaying>
As for the Aiptasia, I don't see how I'm going to be able to get them out. There's no way to cut them out. They act like they have eyes and
when ever I get close they duck for cover. I pulled out a rock and scrubbed the spot but didn't even touch it. I may have killed one with a turkey baster
full of boiling water, but I have one in the crux of a couple of live clams. I don't want to boil them.
<Try a syringe of "Joe's Juice" or Kalkwasser paste and inject them in the base>
What do you think of Nudibranchs? Should I get a couple, then pass them on to others.
<Berghia spp. are a possibility, but only that. Yes, they will eat the anemones, but they'll also possibly starve to death before they even find the anemones. It's possible to find them tank bred online, I would purchase a few of these if that's what you decide to do>
I was hoping the peppermint shrimp were going to eat them.
Here are the pics. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc57/tonycip111/IMGP1070.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc57/tonycip111/IMGP1069.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc57/tonycip111/IMGP0971.jpg[/IMG]
Initially, I didn't think I was getting enough flow, so I capped the inside two flow outlets you see in the pic.
<Nice job on the DIY work, it looks good. Let me know if you still have detectable ammonia in two weeks. M. Maddox>

Unit conversions  1/8/08
hey not to be a jerk but there are actually 4 quarts to a gallon and two pints to a quart :)
<Heeee! I must have been drinking too many pints! Thank you for this>
also since I didn't see anything specific on the page and it might be helpful. There are approximately:
3.8 liters per gallon
976 ml (.976 l per quart)
2.2 lbs per kilo
231 cubic inches per gallon
a pints a pound the world around, as such a gallon is approx 8 pounds (8.33)
Celsius to Fahrenheit is 9/5(C) + 32 = F
hope this is helpful to at least some one :)
Cheers
<Danke. Bob Fenner>

Potassium too low, Boron too high, other possible issues....
Water Quality And Going Overboard 1/1/08
Hey WetWebMedia folks....
<Hello Glenn>
I send a water sample weekly to a lab for testing from my 600 gallon FOWLR system.
<Wowsie, pretty pricey isn't it?>
As you can see from the most recent tests, the Potassium component (too low and dropping) seems to be an issue, while the Boron (suspecting my salt mix is the culprit here, using Instant Ocean Reef Crystals for the last two years) is too high. If salt mix is a/the probable bad guy, would appreciate recommendations on alternative mix.
<You are going overboard with the lab work. Reef Crystals is one of the better salt mixes out there. Bi-monthly 10% water changes should provide all the essential elements needed by your inhabitants. Calcium will have to be maintained by additives.>
The magnesium component is coming back (using supplemental addition little by little), but I do not see any of my usual suppliers (Drs. Foster & Smith and Marine Depot) offering a straight Potassium supplement/additive.
<I don't know if anyone sells such...Bob?><<I don't... and don't know of anyone who does presently... this element is not often in short supply. RMF>>
I don't want to be "chasing numbers" but some of these seem to be potentially serious problems. Or, am I concentrating on those numbers that look most out-of-whack, while missing something more fundamental?
Your general guidance re: the apparent health/appearance of the organisms in the system plays a part here... everything from fish to inverts is fine:
good color, vigor and appetite across the board. Some small issue with hair algae, but hey, what's new?
I do about a 75 gallon water change regime weekly, source water comes from a 5-stage RO (no DI, no Hi-S stage) unit. Two large Euro-Reef protein skimmers pull the crud out.
<Sounds like a good plan to me.>
PS - The letters H, G, L simply are my way of referencing High, Good or Low concentrations as a quick overview.
Water Testing Results 11/01/07 11/08/07 11/20/07 12/03/07
12/10/07 12/17/07 12/24/07 Ammonia .010 G .007 G .005 G 0.014 G .006 G 0.001 G .002
G Nitrite .007 G .007 G .006 G 0.003 G .007 G .005 G .003 G Nitrate 2.3 G
1.2 G 1.3 G 1.7 G 1.4 G 1.4 G 1.3 G Phosphate .10 G .11 G .25 G .24 G .26 G .26
H .02 G Silica 1.6 H .6 H 0.0 G .5 G 1.0 H 1.3 H 0.6 H Potassium 287 L 271
L 253 L 248 L 234 L 210 L 207 L Calcium 258 L 286 L 258 L 241 L 202 L 391 G
401 G Boron 5.9 G 9.8 H 13.1 H 16.7 H 11.4 H 12.1 H 13.1 H Molybdenum 0.1 G
0.1 G 0.1 G 0.1 G 0.1 G 0.1 G 0.3 H Strontium 5.2 G 4.7 L 12.1 H 10.4 G 11.8 G
5.9 G 6.7 G Magnesium 960 L 1021 L 1049 L 838 L 963 L 776 L 902 L Iodine .03
G .01 L .01 L .03 G .02 L .05 G .06 G Copper .04 H .01 G .03 G .01 G .02 G
.02 G .02 G Alkalinity 3.96 G 4.01 G 3.36 G 4.09 G 3.89 G 3.42 G 3.03 G
Salinity 1.020 1.020 1.020 1.020 1.020 1.018 1.018 pH 8.000 7.950 8.000 8.250
8.350 8.400 8.350 ORP 350 335 345 365 365 375 380
<I do not see any serious problems here at all. The ORP/pH/alkalinity levels you have certainly attest to good water quality in the regard that excess nutrients/dissolved waste are very low. Just keep doing what you are doing my friend. I'm curious to know what the fee is for one lab test. You may be wasting your money here. >
Thanks for your feedback and suggestions/recommendations/insight.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Sincerely,
Glenn Brokaw

Reef water chemistry question, reading   11/26/07
Hello,
I will get right to it. I have a 125 gallon reef tank. It has been up and running for about 4 years now with minimal problems. Until now. Actually I am not sure if it is a problem or not. This is where you come in. The PH level has always been about 8.4 but my alkalinity measures at 15DKH, while my calcium levels remain low at 225.
<Mmmm>
I am about 2 weeks overdue for a water change, but I am not sure if that will do the trick. I dose calcium nightly in a 1 gallon container and drip it into the sump (slurry method).
<As... Kalk...?>
I have been doing so for a while. I only use Instant Ocean salt mix, so I don't think that is the problem.
<Actually... there have been quite a few folks write in that they have experienced anomalies since the co. (A.S.) sold>
Is this level of Alkalinity a problem?
<Can/could be, yes... the "laid down" matrix of alkaline earths in the skeletons of biomineralizing life in your system could well be marginalized... easily breakable... as well as the physiologies of the life mal-affected>
I have stopped using C-balance since I noticed this high level. I have not noticed and problems with my hammer coral or torch corals. How can I raise my Ca level higher with causing an imbalance somewhere else? Any suggestions or are my parameters OK?.. Happy Holidays and thank you...John
<Thanks... please peruse the articles and FAQs files here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm
about the ninth tray down. Bob Fenner>

Calcium Issue?...Maybe Not – 10/17/07
I have a 55G reef tank up and running successfully for two and a half years.
<<Excellent>>
I have always used the two part supplement B-Ionic on a daily basis, the same dosage for all this time.
<<Hopefully validated by testing...>>
Recently, within the last month it seems the tank has stopped using the calcium. I mean I have stopped using the B-Ionic and the calcium has remained at 450ppm for at least three weeks now.
<<Perhaps other environmental issues/conditions have slowed growth of your corals>>
I understand that corals go through periods when they stop using as much calcium but does this scenario seem right to you?
<<Hard to say without much more detail about your system, water chemistry, livestock, maintenance, etc.... But yes, is likely nothing to worry about>>
Should I continue to dose with B-Ionic or wait until the calcium levels begin to drop?
<<Don’t dose if the tank doesn’t need it...but you make no mention of your Alkalinity here>>
The tank has 0 ammonia and nitrite. The nitrates are high at 20ppm but water changes are quickly changing this reading.
<<Ah, perhaps a clue! If you have “stepped-up” water changes to deal with the Nitrates then this is likely what is maintaining your Calcium level>>
pH is 8.0 and steady, without the B-Ionic.
<<But is a bit low...>>
The corals look healthy, perhaps not thriving, they are not spreading at this point.
<<And their appearance, continued good health are your best indicators whether something is truly amiss here>>
But I am perplexed as to the cause of this new chemistry. How long can a reef tank maintain pH/alkalinity and calcium without some additional supplementation?
<<A very nebulous question as virtually every tank is different...but...many tanks, unless very heavily stocked, are able to maintain a balance of bio-minerals/Earth elements through simple partial water changes. If dosing/supplementation is required, well, your test kits are your best resource for knowing what to dose and how much...let them be your guide>>
Should I be concerned or is this a normal phenomenon? Please Advise. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
<<Continue to monitor water parameters, ensuring “all” are in line/balance...but likely the water changes are providing all the supplementation you need right now. EricR>>

Re: Water parameters help! Follow-up – 6/15/07
<Hey Chris! Sorry for the delay!>
Sorry, I do weekly 30% water changes and I use Instant Ocean salt... forgot to mention that... <Ah! That is a good practice then!> I am currently not testing for my Calcium levels, just my nitrates, nitrites, alkalinity, and pH... any other ideas?
<Should test for Ca periodically since you are supplementing it, but that is not really related to the question at hand. I did forget to mention the 3rd major means of reducing nitrate and that is by using macroalgae to utilize it. Nitrate is fertilizer for plants. It didn't sound like you have room for that in the setup you have, but is always worth considering. Read re refugiums. The question is - Where are the nitrates coming from? Source water? Test it, for sure! Feeding too much? Make sure to rinse the frozen food before putting in tank. Maybe try feeding less often if your fish aren't thin. And leave off the brine shrimp - not as nutritious as the alternatives.> Should I put the sponge back in then? <The sponge would provide mechanical filtration and provide a place for the aerobic bacteria to convert ammonia/nitrite to nitrate. This is only a problem if there is no anaerobic area in the tank to further break down the nitrate. You may not be able to achieve this, so again, I think water changes (with nitrate-free source water) is your best best. I would use the sponge, but rinse it out frequently to avoid excess accumulation of crud.> Also, I heard that you can take out the bio balls in one of the back compartments and replace them with small bits of live rock... would this help at all? <I would try this with the biggest bits you can fit. Be careful not too take out too much of your biological filtration at once though. Live rock is definitely preferred to bio-balls, as it has a chance of helping with the nitrate reduction, the balls don't.> Also, I just took out the emerald crab...<yes, he could have been a problem in this space eventually grabbing a fish.>
so the inhabitants are now the perc, the Dottyback, and the shrimp... thanks
in advance for all of the helpful advice. <With your water change regimen this should be working for you. I suspect your source water may be coming with nitrates, lots are having problems with this this year it seems. Alex.>

Cloudy Water, Marine  4/16/07
Hi there,
<Hello>
I have read your articles and wondered if you could come up with a solution to a problem I am having. The water in my marine tank seems to have a 'milky' cloud that I am unable to get rid of.
<Usually due to either a bacterial bloom caused by high ammonia/nitrite or sand particles.>
I have a 110lt marine tank that is approx 4 months old.  <About 29 US Gallons I believe.>
The levels of nitrate/nitrite etc are ok <define ok> as is the ph level of 8.2 I have an Ehiem filter system that is large enough to handle a 200lt tank and an air stone. The fish in the tank are a trigger/clown/file/tailfin and a wrasse.  <Wow, too much life in such a small tank, my guess this is the source of the problem.>
I take out approx 15% of the tank every two weeks or so and use a buffer to keep the levels constant. The temp. is fine as is the salt density.
Over the last 4 weeks or so the water has started to become cloudy and looks quite 'milky'. I have tried turning off the light for a few days and I have also added some 'cotton wool' to the filter to try and sift out the algae to no avail.
The fish 'seem' fine and happily eat whatever I give them.
Any help or thoughts would be very welcome.
Thanks
David.  
<Too much life and probably overfeeding is leading to poor water quality I am guessing.  This leading to a bacterial bloom which causes the cloudiness.>
<Chris>

Cloudy Water, Marine  Part II 4/16/07
Thanks for the input...will cut down on the feed and see what happens.
David
<Need to take a look at your stocking, ultimate cause of this problem.>

Purified water testing & trace elements Water Quality 4/8/07
Hello,
<Hi Greg.>
I've been  testing my make-up water via a Salifert alkalinity test kit.  The water is  purified via an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water  Purifier.
<A very expensive way to purify water.  An RO purifier will save you much money here.>
I  always get 0 dKH when testing. The thing is though, recently I got close enough  to the aerating/stored make-up water to notice a fishy stink.
<Is the water being circulated/aerated?>
So I tested  alkalinity and it read 0.  So I'm thinking the alkalinity test obviously isn't  sufficient.
<???Alkalinity has nothing to do with water purity.>
I'm  guessing a TDS meter will do the trick.  What is the best way to catch the purifier before it produces anything less than perfect water?
If you think a meter is the way to go, will the Pocket TDS Meter from Marine Depot do the trick? The reason I ask is, it seems like it might be cheaply made @  $29.95.
<Total Dissolved Solids testing is used to check the effectiveness of RO units and I believe would also tell you the condition of the media in your water purifier.
As for the meter MD sells, I'd ask them that question.>
Also, I use a Poly Filter  and dose Seachem's Reef  Builder and Reef Advantage Calcium.  Should I remove the Poly Filter for four days every time I add these to my tank? Will the Poly Filter remove a  significant amount of trace elements from either of these two  products?
<No.  If regular water changes are carried out, you will replenish any lost trace elements.>
I really don't care if it removes the magnesium, strontium, etc.  All I worry about being absorbed is the calcium and alkalinity.
<No worries here.>
How  much, if any, will it remove from these two products?
<Would be negligible at best.>
One more question. My make-up water (for water  change) only has 960 ppm of Mg. I'm shooting for 1050. I've got Epsom  salts and I'm wondering if I can just add the powder directly to my make-up water after it's been aerated, buffered, brought to correct spg and pH. If  not, how should I do this?  Dilute in purified water and then add to  make-up water? The tank's magnesium level is at 915 ppm and would like this  also to be 1050 since I maintain calcium around 350 ppm. Am I going about this  in the right manner?
<I would mix the Epsom salts in a separate container and add directly to tank when needed.  As for other additives, follow manufacturers directions.  James (Salty Dog)>
Take care,  Greg

Water Change 3/17/07
Hi WetWeb Media,
<Hello>
I was wondering, can your water get a little cloudy even after it has cycled and if so how long can it take to clear up? <Can but often a sign of too much ammonia/nitrite, not a good thing.> I have been told it is just some bacteria in the water that should clear up as the tank ages. <Yes, but check your water parameters.> Jeff
(Thanks for your quick response on the last question)
<Sure>
<Chris>

Re: Cloudy Water 3/19/07
Hey it's Jeff again,
<Hello>
Thanks for your answer. But here's my next question, I have check the water and Ammonia is at (0) Nitrite (0) and Nitrates are around 5.0 PPM. Do you think it is just the tank needing to age a little bit. <Maybe, could it be small sand particles?>  Keep in mind I am not going to get any livestock until I know 100% what the problem is.  <Good> Is it possible it's just the bacteria settling in the tank after the cycle. <The bacteria we are trying to culture does not live in the water, only attached to surfaces.> Also the water is not exactly cloudy it just looks like tiny little particles are floating around. <Sounds like it might be blowing sand or something similar.> From the front it looks clear but on the sides you can see the particles. I'm sure it's just going to take patience it always does with aquariums. <Yep> Thank you again for the last few answers! Jeff
<Anytime>
<Chris>

Alkalinity, calcium and pH  2/18/07
Hi Everyone,
I have a 72 gal FOWLR tank (with a 1" bed of live sand - aragonite) that is almost 4 months old with 2 percula clowns, a six line wrasse, a yellow tang, and a coral beauty angel. I have a regal tang in quarantine almost ready to join the others. The fish are very happy and healthy, but I'm not!
<!>
My problem is that my alkalinity has gotten too high (6.57 meq/l), my pH hovers around 8.0 to 8.15, and my calcium level is 280ppm. I think I know how this happened. In my quest to raise the ph, I added Proper pH 8.2
<Mmm, this product should only be used in freshwater settings>
to excess not realizing that it was cranking up the alkalinity. My question is this:  How do I correct this situation?
<Mmm, best with time going by, regular water changes... and leaving this product out>
My plan is to do 10% water changes daily (or every other day - I routinely do them weekly)
<Good... but I'd stick with the weekly... with pre-mixed/stored water... and 20-25%>
to gradually bring down the alkalinity using RO/DI water (with Instant Ocean salt).  This is where I get a little lost.  What do I do to get pH and calcium levels in order.  My goal is pH = 8.3, calcium = 350-400 ppm, and alkalinity = 3.5 meq/l.  Are these proper values for a FOWLR system?
<Yes>
  I'm trying to increase the coralline algae growth on my live rock.  I need a plan of attack - a recipe for success if you will.  Hope you can help. Thanks in advance. Mike.
<Thank you for writing so clearly, thoroughly... The water changes with the Aquarium Systems salt mix, the stock, substrate you list... should "do it"... in a few months time. Bob Fenner>

High dKH  2/1/07
Hello.  I appreciate the time you folks take in answering all the  questions thrown at you.  I have been spending hours on your website going  through all the data. My question is this:  My alkalinity is at 20 dKH  and my pH is at 8.3.  If I lower my dKH to acceptable levels (8-12 dKH),  will it lower my pH below acceptable levels for a marine aquarium?
<Mmm, possibly... depending on the means utilized to lower, and the percentages of what is involved in rendering the KH what it is...>
  I  believe my pH should still be stable and remain at 8.3 considering my dKH is so  high to begin with.  Is this correct?
R/
Jeff
<Mmm... do you have a notion, input as to the nature of the high, too-high KH? Is this from your "starting", tap water? If so, I would just blend in some less-solute-laden source... like RO, DI, or RODI. Bob Fenner>

No loss of life, but phosphates and ammonia spiking even after water change, HELP!  - 1/22/07
Tank setup: 120 gal, 30 gal sump, overflow into sump, onto charcoal and phosphate pad (phosphate pad also one in overflow because currently having a brown algae bloom).
<Caused or allowed by... what?>
Pro clear aquatic skimmer in sump, water returns to tank via two lines on each side of the tank. System has been set up since April 06.  Various Rio pumps in tank to give flow. Calcium is reading at 440, Last week ammonia .25, nitrate 5.0, nitrite 0, phosphate .5, PH OK. Ammonia, phosphate has elevated lately so did 20% water change. 1 day after water change ammonia .5, nitrate between 5 and 10 ppm, no nitrites and phosphate is still .5. (aquarium pharmaceuticals test kits). Ammonia and phosphate are still elevated after water change and using phosphate pad. Using well water (no chlorine), does have trace of nitrate and phosphate, but usually get small algae bloom and it works it’s way out as well as when I vacuum.
Tank has about 100 lbs live rock and other rock put in at the time of setup. 1 yellow tang, 1 clown, 2 chromis, 1 mandarin, 1 dragon net, 1 coral beauty, 1 bi color Pseudochromis, 4 blue leg crabs, 50 some odd snails (and lots of snail eggs lately (Nassarius – I saw her at work),
<Heeee! Your employ is with gastropods?>
carpet xenia, yellow star, 5 other small colonies of polyps, and 1 flaming scallop,
<...>
one very large (10” bristle worm I’ve been trying to catch, ½ dozen other smaller bristles that I see). Now the skimmer – while I was doing water change, figured I’d pull the skimmer and clean it too. First time I took apart the skimmer and cleaned the inside of the pump – was working fine before I pulled it. Was some brown gunk on magnet, not too bad, put it all back together. I lost the seal from the pump feed to the reaction chamber so I siliconed it as I was getting huge bubbles from skimmer and it was just foaming and pushing water out. Also siliconed from the pump to the intake because I thought this may be another possible place for air to leak in. Looking at the skimmer in action, don’t see anything unusual. I also added an air restrictor on the end of the air intake. This has helped reduce the amount of foaming, but the bubbles in the chamber are much larger than before I took the skimmer apart and cleaned it.
<Something amiss here... likely with the air mix, or gunk in the injector area>
I’m opting to just get a new skimmer as it seems to be pulling extra air and making huge bubbles and not really skimming, just making foam, although the air restrictor has slowed this down considerably (never had to used it before). Lately I have had a decent die back of large 1/2 inch amphipods in the tank  I had a LOT of them. Would this cause an elevation in the ammonia and phosphates?
<Actually... whatever caused their loss...>
I’ve also had to move my polyps up high as yes – the amphipods are munching on them at night and they have died back some (not touching the carpet or star corals). Will ammonia increase when something in the tank dies?
<Often so, yes>
Why didn’t the levels drop after the water change?
<Likely a root cause of trouble here IS the water... I would install, use RO for your potable and pet-fish uses>
No loss of life yet, but not sure what to do now. Will test again tomorrow night and can do another water change (crystal sea marine mix as always, water at 1.024), but what else
should I be looking for?
<An inexpensive RO device...>
I have been feeding daily frozen brine, 2 pellets for the crabs or they attack my snails and every three days with Chromax. This last week I’ve cut feeding back from once a day to every other while monitoring the water. I supplement with iodine, coral Vite and strontium and molybdenum (Kent). I usually cut back on these after water change because the water should have everything it needs (usually wait two weeks before supplementing). I do a water change every 6 weeks as it is such a huge undertaking for the size tank I have. Can you recommend a good skimmer?
<Yes... posted on WWM... likely an Aqua-C product here>
If I’m having an issue with the one I have now, don’t want another one. It was doing well until I pulled it apart to clean it, but it is less than a year old. How long should a skimmer last anyway?
<Read my friend... a good skimmer is a once in a life-time purchase. Read. Bob Fenner>

Re: Help water SW chemistry
Thanks for the help and reassurance.  The tank is about a month old at this point.  I have been adding buffer with the calcium supplements so as not to have further drops in pH.
<Mmm, through water changes... not directly to the system>
  When it starts to get to 7.8 I worry about the shrimp and crabs.
<Endeavour to understand the reasons for the reductive behavior here... countervailing strategies for buffering...>
  I plan on more corals over the next few months as the tank matures further.
<Do take your time... research...>
I switched to the Kent reactor calcium supplement since it seems to be an all in one and has no chloride (do you have an opinion about this product).
<I'd switch to SeaChem's superior line...>
So I guess I should stop adding buffer and just watch what the pH does?
<Mmm, no...>
  Is there any bad effects from the very high Alk that I am currently running.
<Yes...>
  I plan on a 25% water change this weekend so it should correct somewhat.
<I hope so...>
Oh one last thing what do you think of the remora C skimmer....
<Is a fine product>
being a Hex tank my space is limited.
Thanks again for all your help
Regards
Carlos David
<Have you read on WWM re calcium, alkalinity, pH? I would... Bob Fenner>

Salt Water Cloudiness in New Setup 1/19/07
Hello,
<Hi Steve>
I have a 75 gallon saltwater aquarium that I have had set up for 1 month.  I used a product that is supposed to cycle the tank overnight.  
<Welcome! I hope that doesn't mean you added livestock too early...>
I am running a ProClear 150 wet/dry with protein skimmer, and have added 2 damsels that were fine so I added a puffer.  
<Fine is a relative term, and damsels are notoriously tough when it comes to water conditions. You (and your system) would be best served to have a full test kit available here, with ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and Ph tests for starters so you know for sure instead of gauging water quality by outward appearances of your fishies.>
The brown algae started growing everywhere and I did a water change and now have cloudy water, almost like the filter is not filtering due to the white cloudy material shooting into the tank.  Did I do a water change to soon?  
<Could be air bubbles from the salt mix, or stirred up detritus from the sand bed?  I need more info. When were fish added in relation to the initial setup? What do you use for source water, and how do you mix it? What are your current test values?>
What to do?  
<Buy a test kit or at least bring some water to be tested at your LFS.>
I have lost one damsel and the other I think will be gone in the morning due to very rapid breathing.  The puffer is still eating but not a lot of movement.  Any help would be grateful.
<Suggest some reading for you:
http://wetwebmedia.com/toxictk.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i2/marine_planning/marine_planning.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcyclefaqs.htm
Remember, some of this hobby seems very tedious. Lots of learning, and frantic searching to fix the mistakes we *all* made/make, but it is all necessary to become successful in the hobby. I would read the links above, and any blue links that catch your eye on those pages.
-Graham T.>
Thanks,
Steve