DSB question and more 6/16/08 Hi.. <Hello Mohamed!> Better to give you details on my reef aquarium.. I have a 90 gallon aquarium with a 25 gallon sump, OR1200 return pump, AquaC EV180 skimmer, 1 Tunze stream 6060, 2x 150w 14k Metal halides, 4x54w Aquamedic actinic T5 lamps and 2x54w T5 white 10k lamps. <Sounds like a great setup.> I have a 4.5inch DSB with no plenum. Is this okay??? <Yes, definitely.> Secondly, my sand bed is very dirty most of the time... what should I do to remedy this? Will more flow help?? <More flow is one of the primary tools to keep the sand from accumulating detritus. Small sand stirrers such as Nassarius snails can be helpful too. If your sand is dirty with algae or BGA, that is another issue.> How’s the algae free sure flow mod for the Maxijet 1200?? <It is great, I love them. I was part of the pack the last few years fabricating my own, the new drop in kits are lifesavers. Low power draw, quiet and tons of flow.> Furthermore, the sand I use is very fine... about 0.5mm or less. It is about 2 years old. Due to this, a lot of sand keeps blowing in my tank and it always goes on top of rocks and stuff no matter where I point the Tunze. I’m going insane trying to control it even without the Tunze. <It will take a bit of trial and error to get it right, but it can be done. You will likely find it easier to keep your sandbed in place throughout most of the tank with the addition of another powerhead (such as the MJ mod). Colliding the flow from the two can provide a greater, but more dissipated flow. With one the directional flow can be tough, digging troughs that other sand then falls into, continuing the cycle.> Note: Tunze is on the back top right corner of my 48"x24"x18" tank and is pointing straight to the other end (length wise). Should I use a coarser grain of sand to avoid this problem?(2-3mm).. If so, how do I do it in an established aquarium? <You can if you wish. I personally like the sugar fine sand. If you do want to switch you can siphon out the sand with your water changes over a period of a few weeks, then replace with the new. One word of warning: if your rocks are supported by the sand you will end up with a rockslide. If this is the case you may have to teardown the system to switch. Again, the fine stuff can work with some experimentation with flow.> Also, I got Caribsea Aragamilk and have been using it for 3 weeks and my calcium is still 300-320ppm.. I stopped using Kalk due to pH fluctuations. Also on your recommendation, I have purchased a Milwaukee ph controller and GEO 618 calcium reactor to remedy this but the shipment has not yet arrived (will do so in a week). Will the reactor be able to pull the calcium up to the 400s? <It can, but with an increase in alkalinity too. You will want your Ca and Alk in balance, then use the reactor to keep it that way.> Is there anything DIY I can do in the meantime? <For the amount of time you are looking at you will want to simply buy a small quantity of another Ca supplement or increase your water changes to get things in balance, assuming your salt has a higher level of Ca (it should). > Thanks a bunch and I hope you guys can help me make my tank look good... PS: how’s the blue background at the back of the tank? Should I change it? <Looks good if you like blue backgrounds ? A personal choice that will be covered in coralline with time!> Mohamed. <Welcome, thank you for writing, Scott V.>

Calcium supplement question... culture, keeping Nephtheids   6/12/08 Hello <Howsit?> I have a 500 gallon total system for non photosynthetic organisms and have been working with Dendronephthya and Scleronephthya for some years. (I published an article on Reef Central under Dendronephthya Husbandry a few months ago about my friend Chuck Stottlemire's tank). The trouble is, Chuck's tank has done VERY well with these organisms; mine hasn't. (The trick seems to have been continuous feeding of phytoplankton and rotifer product). <Necessary... in particular, a mix of "right sized" organisms> My organisms slowly die like everyone else's. For years I have supplemented to NSW values with silica. I haven't checked the alkalinity or calcium for years, since there was little calcification/ coralline growth. <Mmm... these materials still get "used up" in captive settings> I fussed with phosphate issues, which I suspected was the problem (up to 2ppm); when I lowered the phosphate with vodka I would get initially better expansion then things worsened... <Ethanol is not a long term solution...> Long story short, I checked alkalinity and found it to be 26 DKH, calcium 280. Hmmm... no alkalinity additives for years, weekly 10% water changes with moderately hard water. After staying up half through the night trying to figure this out, I think I found the problem- chronic silica additions add alkalinity, just as nitrate additions would. (I have supplemented nitrate as well when the macroalgae shriveled with undetectable nitrate). This presumably forced the calcium down. <A mis-balance all the way around> After one large jar of calcium chloride, <... not a good idea> I got impatient and bought a calcium supplement from the pool industry; <Ditto!> I read the chemical spec sheet, and it contained 98% calcium chloride, 1% strontium chloride, and a little magnesium, no other additives. I've been spooning this stuff in. Over one week, the calcium rose to 380, the alkalinity then started to fall now in the range of 16 DKH. <You tell me what I know> I have read somewhere that some of the soft corals prefer a NSW DKH of 8-12 for optimum polyp extension, which is where I want to go. <Okay...> Needless to say, Nephtheids look terrible. However, sponges, snails, fish all look fine. Question: 1) Do you agree the silica was the cause? (Actually, my stupidity is the proximate cause, but is the silica the mediating factor?) <Only one of a few listed and not> 2) Is the pool industry additive safe? <Not really> 3) Am I going to have to ultimately add so much chloride that the whole system is poisonous and massive water changes are needed? <This would happen in time, but likely other factors will cause you to give up first> 4) If water changes, I was thinking of continuous water changes of 1000 gallons over a week or so via doser/exchanger. This would still leave about 30% or the original water in the system. Is this enough? <Likely so... I would be reading... perhaps a few good tomes on general marine aquarium water chemistry. I would (categorically) NOT use calcium chloride as a long-term, habitual supplement, NOT use C2H5OH either, NOT supplement Si02... for a system of this size, type I WOULD look into a calcium reactor, and a very large refugium and DSB and the culture (likely separately of nano, pico-plankton et al. sizes) if your intention is to sustain Nephtheids. Bob Fenner> Thanks as always Charles Matthews M.D. Re: calcium supplement question... and Silicon...  6/12/08 Bob, thanks for the thoughtful reply. To clarify, I wasn't considering using calcium chloride long term, but to bring up calcium until I could restart a balanced supplement (rather than do a 1000 gallon water change). <Understood> My reading (I suspect I've read anything you might suggest- I particularly follow Holmes-Farley) suggests this would be a standard approach first as a temporary measure, <We don't differ often, but this is one case. I taught H.S. Chemistry and Physics... and have spent many hours trying to formulate, practice if you will on my fellow aquarists, just how to "make known what needs"... Am very sure that you have similar sensibility in your dealings as a doctor of medicine... I assure you my short statements here (and I guess most everywhere) are borne of much experience and background/related knowledge. I would go so far as to state that I would in most all cases never supplement with calcium chloride... for a few reasons... again, these are archived on WWM, in articles and books by me...> since this imbalance wouldn't be corrected by just adding a calcium reactor or other balanced product (at least on any reasonable time scale for water changes). <Correct... I would execute at least one massive water change here... hundreds of gallons...> Are you thinking that I would have been better in this particular system (rather in a general say SPS system) by not correcting the imbalance first at all, and just going with my 10% weekly water changes? Or just proceeding to changing 1000 gallons or so first? <I'd change a large percentage... If you can/could, all of it> Also, the silica additions were Holmes-Farley inspired, <Again... we disagree. Silicate is not a rate-limiting material for what most all hobbyists want to do... I take it you are purposely/trying to culture diatoms/bacillariophyceans> and I thought it was interesting that this seemed to be the problem, and I've not seen this discussed before by him or any others. The addition of nitrate alone, such as for a planted tank, will raise alkalinity during conversion to N2,, <Only temporarily> and I presumed that the same change occurs with silica; <Almost w/ no measure... are you administering some form of silicon dioxide? This has a very low solubility in water> this was the cause over time for the reason calcium and alkalinity became skewed. <Mmm, I am dubious to the extreme> Silica depletes over a few days in my system with improved diatom growth and benthic grazers, so I was happy about this; silica additions have been discussed by Delbeek and Sprung in vol.. 3 as well... Adding silica, I think would increase alkalinity over time when NSW values are maintained by additions; <How?> if however you add silica to a diatom culture, and then add the diatoms strained of culture water, I wouldn't expect the same alkalinity problem. So, although some authors have been suggesting adding silica in this context to stimulate diatom growth, the problem of gradually increasing alkalinity will been to be monitored, and would need calcium supplementation to maintain balance. <Yes... these values are more important than silica/te/Silicon concentration> This makes the whole approach of adding silica to the tank problematic because of the increased chloride. <? You're adding a salt of Si2? Tetrachloride? So much that you believe there is size-able introduction of excess chloride?> Adding a silica based mud refugium, or silica sand, might be a better option if stimulating diatom growth in aquaculture is desired. Do you think I've got the silica problem understood now? <Again... I am not a fan of supplementing Silicon in any format... in specialty cases (perhaps as yours) where you want more of what this will get you (e.g. Diatoms), as you state, it is best to culture these elsewhere, rinse the medium before introduction into another system> Thanks as always <Welcome. BobF> Re: calcium supplement question... Now just Silicon  6/12/08 I was using the Holmes-Farley recipe of "water glass" silica, 12 drops whisked into a quart of cold water and poured into the sump once daily. <Have just re-read RHF pc. on: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2003/feature.htm The amount you've been adding is miniscule...> This maintained silical levels NSW by Salifert test kit, then declined to undetectable over a few days if stopped. <Yes... soluble silicates can/do fall by about 50% a day in most settings...> The mechanism I was postulating- and I haven't seen this discussed- would be that the silica and the nitrate charges are similar. The mechanism would be the same as if you added nitrate regularly. <Mmm, chemically perhaps, but not biochemically... depending on what is "going on" in a given system, NO3 can be rapidly converted/absorbed-incorporated or not.> As I understand it, during the ammonia catabolism cycle, the conversion of nitrite to nitrate is an acidifying reaction; <Yes... aerobic nitrification is reductive... results in acidification> the conversion of nitrate to nitrogen gas restores that alkalinity. <Can... but this actual balance (anaerobic to hypoxic) is rare as hen's teeth in captive marine systems> If you skipped the nitrate-nitrogen step and just added nitrate alone, that would produce increase in alkalinity long term. <Mmm, no... much more going on here... try this and see... and we can speculate re some major reaction series re> Along the same lines, an imbalance with decline in alkalinity as opposed to a balanced decline, will occur due to water changes that export nitrate. <Among other contributing influences... overall respiration, metabolism, deamination period... drives down pH, nicks away at alkaline reserve> I presume the conversion of silica to biological forms of silica is an alkalinizing reaction similar to the conversion of nitrate to N2. <I do think so... You may find this interesting/pertinent: http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/7204971/claims.html> What you think, Bob? (smiley emoticon!). <Keep on keeping on Charles. BobF> Re: calcium supplement question Bob- the ion that goes with the silicate is sodium (sodium silicate). 6/12/08 <Mmm, yes... in this supplementation scheme> I am presuming that the silicate charge is like the nitrate charge after dissociation. <I don't know if I'm following you here... the valence charge of each dissociated molecular species as ions? Silicon, like carbon, can share up to 4 electrons per atom... can/does exist in different valence states depending on local chemistry... As a very common element (makes up more than a quarter of this planet's crust) Silicon rarely exists in elemental form... the same is the case in our aquariums... I do want to emphasize to any browsers to CAREFULLY read RHF's article/s re sodium silicate use... this material is very caustic (alkaline). BobF> <<Is the issue here one of whether folks should supplement (somehow) with Silicon... for the purpose/s of promoting Diatom et al. growth (many organism groups use, are rate-limited in captive systems by a lack of...) to the possible exclusion of "pest" green et al. algal growth? Each must decide for themselves, but I am of the opinion that such supplementation should only be done with sufficient knowledge and great care... as there are a few important downsides to such practice. RMF>>

Carbonate Super Saturation (Bio-Mineral Imbalance) – 04/02/08
Hey guys,
<<Tom>>
I have a dilemma and just wondered what the best methodology was here.
<<Okay…let’s see>>
I have a 900 gallon system,
<<Neat>>
I definitely have carbonate super saturation (though haven’t seen any snow).
<<…?>>
I am running a large reactor now with 50 lbs of Gen-X media, it’s a diy yourself but Alk coming out is 29 dKH and pH is 6.5.
<<Okay>>
This is all the result of low magnesium and a kalk accidental overdose,
<<Ah, I see>>
but long story short I am looking for a permanent fix here.
<Mmm…>>
If Alk is 8, ca is 320, if I add buffer Alk drops to 6, ca is literally dropping on its own right now by 80 ppm in under 24 hrs with the reactor running.
<<A serious “out of balance” condition exists… And even though you don’t “see snow,” I think you are experiencing a precipitous event at a microscopic level>>
I thought I had it pinged yesterday with Alk of 8 dKH and ca of 400, pH dropped from 8.15 to 8.07 during the day. MG is 1500 (that’s because I have been running the reactor 24x7 to keep ca and Alk up). There are 2 300 gal tanks a sump and a 160gal display.
<<Wow…one of the few with support volumes greater than the display…excellent>>
The display has 1/2" of sand in it; some of it has solidified due to the super saturation.
<<No doubt>>
This is what I am thinking, vacuum out the sand, cut out and drain one 300 gal tank making the system size smaller,
<<I don’t understand this…>>
NO MORE BUFFERS,
<<Agreed>>
and good water changes until the reactor handles the load itself.
<<This sounds smart to me>>
From there I would bring the 300 back online with additional new water added to the system over a period of days.
<<Ahh…okay>>
The other way is to cut out the display as well but if I do so I fear it may be too much change too fast.
<<Possibly…and the water changes should help quickly>>
Finally, the only other place carbonate could have settled is in my trash can DSB (Calfo’s bucket), but I really don’t want to cut it out as it is well established and I don’t want to have to deal with SPS and nitrates!
<<No need to remove it…but do check to make sure water can still get in to/through it>>
Let me know what you guys think, thanks for any guidance here.
Tom
<<You have my thoughts re, Tom. Good luck with the recovery. EricR>>

Calcium Issue?...Maybe Not – 10/17/07
I have a 55G reef tank up and running successfully for two and a half years.
<<Excellent>>
I have always used the two part supplement B-Ionic on a daily basis, the same dosage for all this time.
<<Hopefully validated by testing...>>
Recently, within the last month it seems the tank has stopped using the calcium. I mean I have stopped using the B-Ionic and the calcium has remained at 450ppm for at least three weeks now.
<<Perhaps other environmental issues/conditions have slowed growth of your corals>>
I understand that corals go through periods when they stop using as much calcium but does this scenario seem right to you?
<<Hard to say without much more detail about your system, water chemistry, livestock, maintenance, etc.... But yes, is likely nothing to worry about>>
Should I continue to dose with B-Ionic or wait until the calcium levels begin to drop?
<<Don’t dose if the tank doesn’t need it...but you make no mention of your Alkalinity here>>
The tank has 0 ammonia and nitrite. The nitrates are high at 20ppm but water changes are quickly changing this reading.
<<Ah, perhaps a clue! If you have “stepped-up” water changes to deal with the Nitrates then this is likely what is maintaining your Calcium level>>
pH is 8.0 and steady, without the B-Ionic.
<<But is a bit low...>>
The corals look healthy, perhaps not thriving, they are not spreading at this point.
<<And their appearance, continued good health are your best indicators whether something is truly amiss here>>
But I am perplexed as to the cause of this new chemistry. How long can a reef tank maintain pH/alkalinity and calcium without some additional supplementation?
<<A very nebulous question as virtually every tank is different...but...many tanks, unless very heavily stocked, are able to maintain a balance of bio-minerals/Earth elements through simple partial water changes. If dosing/supplementation is required, well, your test kits are your best resource for knowing what to dose and how much...let them be your guide>>
Should I be concerned or is this a normal phenomenon? Please Advise. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
<<Continue to monitor water parameters, ensuring “all” are in line/balance...but likely the water changes are providing all the supplementation you need right now. EricR>>

Calcium Additives/Cloudy Water 10/6/07
A couple of days ago I added Seachem's Reef Calcium and Reef Advantage Calcium at the same time. Since that moment of adding these supplements two days ago, I have had a cloudy tank. This is the first time in a long time that I have added calcium supplements to my tank. My next step was to add Seachem's Reef Builder buffer product. I have stopped all supplement additions due to this cloudiness. Luckily, this addition of Reef Calcium and Reef Advantage is the only change I have made to the tank, so I do not have to worry about another cause of this cloudiness. I do not believe of a coincidence with another cause. I have kept reef tanks for many years and have never had any problems, except for algae. I have NEVER had any problems with cloudiness. In the past I had used Kent products and this is the first time I have used the Seachem line of products. It’s frustrating and depressing, I have really appreciated the clarity of my tanks over the years.  Four questions for the possible cause of this cloudiness. 1. Could it be because I haven't added a calcium supplement for so long and now am deciding to do so?
<No.>
2. Could it be that I added these 2 chemicals at the same time?
<Possibly.>
3. Could it be that I have not yet added the Reef Builder buffer.
<No.>
4. Could it be the use of the Seachem products? Remember, I had only used Kent products in the past.
<No, I use their products with no problem. I'm wondering what your alkalinity level was before you added the calcium. A high alkalinity level could cause this reaction. I'd give SeaChem a buzz and get their view on this.>
As with many other problems I have read about, it seems the next step should be a water change.
<Do a alkalinity test, see where you're at.>
Thanks for any help you can provide. I do appreciate your site, it has made all of this much more interesting and enjoyable. Thanks once again.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Low Calcium/Mis-Balanced Water Chemistry – 10/01/07
Good Morning WWM crew!
<<Evening now>>
Hi Eric!
<<Hello my friend>>
Just to give you a little update on the Ich, the fish are alive and eating well, no signs of disease, just waiting for time to pass by, making water changes and adding copper.
<<No more (Copper) than necessary/recommended I hope>>
One more question about that, I have a little Maxi-Jet that usually use to mix freshly made saltwater in the quarantine tank, since I have been dosing Copper, can I still use the powerhead to mix salt? Or will it leach Copper to my new water?
<<Should be fine>>
Should I not ever use this powerhead for anything to do with my main display or is it safe?
<<Nothing to fear, mate…use the powerhead as you please>>
Thanks.
<<Quite welcome>>
Ok, sorry, moving on the main question… I have been observing little growth on my corals lately and started testing all my parameters more diligently, found out with an API test and a Seachem test Calcium around 275,
<<Low…as I’m sure you are aware…strive for 360ppm – 420ppm>>
I moved one of my frags yesterday and I notice a little piece off the base was a little brittle and suspected Ca as the culprit.
<<Mmm, not always...other things could affect the strength of the skeleton (growth rate, water flow, etc.)
I have been working very hard to get dKH up and now Ca seems to be low.
<<Can be mutually exclusive>>
I tested my dKH twice with both tests (also Seachem and API) and I got 8 dKH, this has been steady for a couple of months now. My pH is at 8.3 during the day and around 8.0 in the morning with lights off. I top off with RO/DI 2-teaspoons of Kalk per gallon, also adding 60 ml of C-Balance daily. I know I have a lot of frags, but should not be using this much Ca you think?
<<It might be worth utilizing some Calcium Chloride or Calcium Gluconate (my preference) to raise the Ca level to about 400ppm…then use the Kalkwasser/Two-Part Solution to maintain>>
I do 10% water changes with Reef Crystals salt once a week.
<<Let’s try something… Change your regimen to 10% every two weeks (will still be “plenty”). This will give your tank a better chance to “balance” itself between changes and the inevitable chemical “shake-up” resultant re…let’s see what happens>>
I tested Mg for the third time in a month and each time it reads between 1225 to 1250 or so. I add Reef Mg once a week just to keep level steady.
<<Coral health/growth requires a “balance” in water chemistry…get that Calcium up a bit>>
I just bought a Sybon refractometer and I love that thing!
<<Neat>>
I was using a Deep Six Hydrometer (ashamed) and I realized my SG was at 1.031!!
<<A bit high, indeed>>
I started by adding less salt this weekend did a 15% water change, lowered SG to 1.029, will continue this until reaches around 1.025.
<<Ah good>>
I have removed all of my soft corals, except for a small piece of Pipe Organ, removed several other LPS corals I gave to a friend. I do not see where the calcium is going!!
<<Check the “checker”…perhaps a new test kit…>>
I have started this morning with Kalk shots, dissolved less than 1/4 teaspoon in glass of RE/DI (cold), did this twice while monitoring with digital Milwaukee pH meter.
<<Do be cautious here…good to be monitoring “live” with the meter>>
Anything you can see I am doing wrong?
<<A matter of mis-balanced water chemistry… And best/most easily corrected with frequent water changes with a “quality” salt mix>>
Thanks,
Sebastian
<<Regards, EricR>>

Sick Leather Coral, lack of data, awareness of Ca...  4/25/07 
Dear Rob  ( and Steve Allen if still there!)
<Steve is no longer here unfortunately>
I have a 90 gallon, inverts + fish, over an approx 25 gallon refugium.  The tank is several years up and does moderately well.
I recently started measuring the dKH and calcium levels  and have found the calcium to be quite low.
<Measures...>
I normally use Tech CB and had been told to use only one part of the A/B combo for a while to raise my calcium (my dKH is 9, pH about 8.5).
<Can be done...>
The trouble is that one fish store employee said to use only part A, while the other said to use only part B!
<... http://www.kentmarine.com/saltwater/buffers/techcb-parts-a-b.htm>
WHICH one should I be using alone ??
<A>
Also in the meantime I got some Kent Turbo –calcium and have been adding 1/3 to ½  teaspoon daily for over 2 weeks with no real change in calcium levels- measured today at only  200.
<... something amiss here... interaction with other material/s... being poured in...>
Everything in the tank seems to be well still except  a large hand-sized leather which has been very droopy and usually not showing the short 2mm needle –like protrusions from its surface- a sign of stress in the past.
(see photo)
<Yes, is>
What would you suggest to raise ca++
<That you read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
and the linked files above>
And is the leather just more sensitive to low Ca or just doing poorly for other reasons?
<Can't tell from here...>
Thanx
Jay
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alcyondisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above... And hopefully gain an understanding of what is involved, going on here... You present no real/useful data... Bob Fenner>

Calcium Levels...Is It From GARF/DIY Rock 4/17/07
Hello,
<Hello Graham>
A little over two months ago I transferred the livestock inhabiting my existing 55 gallon reef over to my new 90 gallon setup. At that time I decided to add a 15 gallon Caulerpa refugium with a 4" DSB. I also added two large rocks I had made using the GARF Aragonite/Portland Cement formula.
<I'm not really fond about some of their ideas.>
About three weeks after the transfer and the addition of the refugium I began testing calcium levels with a Salifert Test Kit I had just purchased. Over the last two months I have got the following results, in order from oldest to most recent: 540, 530, 590, 650 ppm. Based on the postings in your forums the latter is not possible. However, I recently tested saltwater made with fresh water from the RO/DI and Instant Ocean Reef Crystals to SG 1.024 and it tested at 330 ppm with the same test kit. This would indicate that the test is working properly. Also, since the beginning of this testing I have been tracking the Alkalinity with a Salifert KH Test Kit. I have tested it over this two month period and got the following results in order from oldest to most recent: 5.8, 6.4, 8, 7.5, 7.7, 6.4, 6.4, 5.8 ppm. During the time between the 5.8 and 7.7 readings I had been supplementing the tank with Kent Pro-Buffer dKH. When I stopped supplementing it fell back down as expected. I have done several small water changes (~10-15 gallons at a time) with no real effect on the calcium level. I can only assume that these calcium levels are a result of adding a large volume of fresh aragonite to the system. Is this a correct assumption?
<Yes and No.  Depending on the type of Portland Cement you used, and I'm assuming you used a ASTM type, the calcium levels you are reading are quite justified.  A major component of this type of cement are hydraulic calcium silicates along with calcium sulfate as an inter ground addition.
Now, in addition to the aragonite, zowie!>
Also, what is the best course of action?
<Too late now, but if I were to make rockwork with this method (and I wouldn't for the obvious reasons you mention), I would have let it cure for at least two weeks, and then, soak it in freshwater for another two weeks doing daily flushings with a garden hose.>  
Should I perform several large water changes over the next few weeks to get the excess calcium out of the water?
<At this stage, I would remove the DIY rock and do let it soak in freshwater and completely change the water every couple of days until a two week period is completed.
Yikes, what am I saying, just throw the damn stuff out and get some real live rock, is not worth the bother.>
All my corals have been suffering since the change (various LPS, mushrooms, zoos). They are somewhat bleached and never fully extend anymore.
<Could be from another additive found in some types of Portland Cement...tricalcium aluminate.>
Is a very high calcium level detrimental to their health?
<Cannot answer that, Bob?> <<Oh yes... trouble in several regards... See the related and influenced factors of pH, alkalinity... RMF>>
I am not sure if this is due to the excessive calcium levels or the fact that my MH?s are well overdue for a change (new ones are on their way as we speak).
<I'd bet from the mess you created.>
All other tank parameters that I monitor (Nitrites, Nitrates, Phosphates, Ammonia) are in check. Your advice is much appreciated.
Thanks,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Graham

High Calcium and Suspect Salt Mix – 03/15/07
I have been battling high calcium 550 to 650 for the past month doing constant water changes but seeing no drop.
<<Mmm, have you validated the accuracy of the test kit?  Perhaps trying a fresh kit and/or different brand (Salifert, Seachem, Hach)>>
Noticed my toadstool, zoanthids, and 4 week old xenia slowly shrivel up over last week.  I couldn't understand with a ph of 8.4, dKH 10, nitrates .10, alk (now I can't remember, but I do remember it was a good range),
<<dKH is your alkalinity reading.  The acceptable range is generally 8 – 10 dKH, though with your calcium level you are better of letting this drop to 7- 8 until you can identify the problem and make corrections>>
phos. 1,
<<Pretty high phosphate level, I would strive to get this reading down to .02 or less>>
why, with so many water changes, the calcium was sky high?
<<Likely the source water or salt mix>>
Decided to test my R/O water with Instant Ocean salt mix (kept in a 50 gal. Rubbermaid container) and it, too, reads 550-600.
<<I’m hearing more and more of concerns/problems re this brand of salt mix...very disconcerting considering this has been my absolute favorite and most recommended brand for three decades...>>
The only thing I add to my R/O water (that I buy from Wal-Mart Culligan machine) is Seachem buffer 8.3, (I just started that) before I add the Instant ocean mix.
<<Hmm...I wouldn’t think it would matter, but try omitting the buffer and see what your test reads.  Also, test the water from your R/O unit “before” adding the salt mix to rule out a bad membrane/high calcium levels from the source water>>
This is the first time I've ever had a problem with high calcium.  Snowstorm galore!
<<Indeed, yikes!>>
However, I had added some calcium to my tank a few weeks ago, but since then have done water changes that should have brought it down.
<<Not with a calcium reading of 600 mg in your change water>>
Could I have gotten a bad batch of Instant Ocean?  (I order from Drs. Foster & Smith the 160 gal. bucket.)    
<<Maybe so...I’ve had some questionable samples myself lately...and makes me suspicious re the ever-dropping “sale-price” of this product lately>>
I have also been battling green algae and red hair algae.
<<Your high phosphate reading isn’t helping here>>
I bought two more powerheads to help with the algae.  Blew off some of the live rock with turkey baster, and made a storm out of that.  (geez)  Seems like after I did that, the algae blooms were worse and the corals started looking bad.
<<Hmm...do you have any purposeful chemical filtration?  Adding a small canister filter with carbon and Poly-Filter will help...you should probably also consider utilizing an iron-based phosphate remover to get your phosphate level down (the Poly-Filter will help with this too)>>
The live rock looks like it has sand lightly sprinkled on it and my snails and one cleaner shrimp has died and as I said before, the few soft corals I have do not look well at all.
<<All a result of the chemical imbalances your tank is experiencing>>
Fish are doing fine.  I feed them twice a day, but only enough for them to be able to eat within 1 min.  My tank is a 100 gal., 6 mos. old, with wet/dry trickle system - bio balls having been replaced with live rock, Super Skimmer by Coralife,
<<Do make sure this skimmer is working well>>
5 powerheads, 1" of live sand, although, with all the vacuuming off the top of the sand due to all the algae, I doubt there is even an inch left!   1 Blue Hippo, 1 yellow tang, 1 Midas Blenny, 2 clowns, 1 PJ cardinal, some snails, 1 turbo snail.  Things just seem to be out of control.  Almost out of salt, so just ordered another bucket.  I hope that will test out better than the one I just finished with the high calcium.
<<Do let me know>>
I have no idea how to lower my calcium other than water changes and not adding anymore calcium or iodine, and just stick to straight out water changes, although, when my replacement water tests out of the calcium level of 550 +, I can't even do that.
<<Agreed...>>
Any help would be greatly appreciated...I have read so much on your website, that I am dizzy.  I've read everything on calcium, alk, phosphate, and different salts to use, all the algae sites.  I need some personal help.  Thank you ever so much...what we any of us do without this site?  I've tried the chat site, but seems like too much guess work going on there... a lot of people like me trying to help people like me!  (Oh Geez!)  ha-ha  Sometimes I've been lucky to get a pro, but not of late.  Thanks for your help...  Linda in GA       
<<Well Linda, at this point I would try a different salt mix (Seachem, Tropic-Marin) to get things back in balance...and quickly!  And do also employ the chemical filtration I have suggested.  Make these changes and then give me a shout back if need be.  EricR in SC>>

High Calcium and Suspect Salt Mix -Re: Instant Ocean/High Calcium  03/15/07
Hey Eric
<<Linda>>
- thanks for the quick response
<<Quite welcome>>
...guess what?  It was the test kit I had...decided last night to buy a new one...now my calcium readings are 355,  phos. .05, alk 9, nitrates .05, PH 8.4...things are testing better than I thought!!!
<<Excellent news!  Always best to "test the testers" before effecting changes>>
However, NOW I am really stumped as to why my softies are shrinking up?
<<Indeed>>
Could it be low calcium levels?
<<No...355 is quite acceptable>>
I do have PhosGuard in the sump, along with Reef Carbon.
<<Ahh...the PhosGuard may be the culprit.  As much as I like the Seachem product line, their aluminum based phosphate remover is not to my liking.  The aluminum will leach in to the water and can mal-affect some corals.  I recommend you replace this aluminum-based phosphate remover with one of the available iron-based products>>
My skimmer produces approx. 1/4-1/3 cup each day.
<<You might try letting the skimmer run a bit more "wet" (double the skimmate output) for a few weeks.  This, and boosting/maintaining pH at 8.4 - 8.6 for 3-4 weeks can help with your alga issues>>
I have to clean the pump once a month in vinegar & baking soda solution.
<<Have to?  Seems a bit excessive>>
I called my fave fish store (not Local...my fave is in Atlanta) - they use Instant Ocean salt and they test theirs out and have had no problems with it...their tests were calc. 360.  So, it isn't the Instant Ocean after all, thank goodness.
<<Good to know...though I'm still suspicious for other reasons>>
I have 4x96 PC with 125lbs live rock.  The PC's are left on 8 hrs a day.
<<I would increase the photo-period to at least 10-hours per day, and 12 would be better...much closer to natural periods in the tropics...from where your corals originated>>
Temp is around 80.  I keep vacuuming the top of my sand bed (1" thick and getting thinner due to vacuuming) due to the red algae build-up and green algae seems to be mostly on the right side of the tank?  Which is the side facing the wall.  The water I use is from Culligan (Wal-Mart) out of the machine, .33-cents a gallon, I tested the phosphate it read 0.  I find it funny that I use the same salt, water, live sand, live rock for my 29 gal. seahorse tank that sits in the same room this tank does, but the seahorse tank has no lighting...there is never any problem with algae.  The room these two tanks are in is bright.
<<Yes...the artificial lighting on the reef tank is the "catalyst" for the algae growth...but not the cause.  Your nitrate level doesn't appear to be out of bounds, though your phosphate is still a bit high.  Remove/replace the aluminum material and see if your corals respond...they may be able to utilize/out compete for whatever is feeding the alga once they are healthy again.  Bump up your pH and increase/keep good water flow throughout the tank.  If things don't start to improve give me another shout and we'll see what we can figure out>>
Thanks so much for your help.
Linda in GA
<<A pleasure to share.  Eric Russell>>

High Calcium Levels - 05/20/05
Hi there.
<Hello>
I've searched your articles but can't seem to find an answer to my question and so was wondering whether you could help?
<I will try <G>.>
My problem is a very high calcium level which is rising! May 15 - 580mg/L to 670mg/L May 20.
<You're not dosing anything?...tis strange.>
dKH for both dates was 8.6 and 8.3 respectively and pH 7.98 and 8.15.  SG has been constant at 1.024 and Magnesium on May 15 was 1275mg/L.
<All good.>
I really can't see how the calcium level has increased as no water change has been done and water has been topped up well before taking both readings.
<Hmm...Are you adding anything to your top-off water that may contribute to this?>
Should I suspect a faulty Calcium kit or is something more sinister
happening with my water chemistry?  I've got mainly soft corals with a couple of LPS hard corals.  Water volume is about 120 gallons in total.  I really would appreciate any help and advice.
<Definitely get a new/different kit.  I suspect this is the culprit.>
Many thanks, Tony Fenton.
<Regards, Eric R.>

High Calcium and Nitrates in a Reef Tank - 3/8/2006
Hello,
<<Hello Adrian.>>
HELP!  I'm facing few problems with my saltwater reef-fish 55-galon tank.  
1) High calcium level.  It's ~600.  I tried the baking soda method but no help.  I used the red sea and another brand of test kit to test the calcium level and both yield similar result.
<<What salt mix do you use? Are you adding calcium?  Try doing several water changes using Instant Ocean, or another high-quality salt mix.>>
2) High nitrate.  It's ~100.  I already reduced the quantity of food.  Hopefully that will bring it down.  Do you know any other quicker way?  I'm already changing 15-20% of water biweekly.
<<Test your source water.  If it has low/no nitrates, change the water more often to bring it down.  Also, look into refugiums, covered on WWM.>>
3) Red algae on rocks.  I see patches of red algae everywhere sometimes even on the sand.  See attachment.  I read articles on your site and the algae sounds like bacteria.
<<Likely Cyanobacteria/BGA.>>
Hopefully reducing the quantity of food will minimize or get rid of this problem.  Do you know any other way?
<<Physical removal, limiting nutrients through food, and adding a refugium are a few that come to mind.  Read on WWM.>>
4) Hair-like plant/things on rocks.  See attachment.  The plant is few millimeter long, yellowish/beige.  What's it?  And how to get rid of it?
<<Your picture is unclear.>>
I checked the water condition:
Ph 8.0-8.3
Nitrite, 0
Ammonia, 0
Alkalinity, high (good according to the kit)
Specific gravity, 1.024
Temp, 77 degree
Nitrate, ~100
Calcium, ~600
Thanks,
Adrian
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>

Tank Problems/Sketchy Info...Look To The Water Changes - 06/18/06
Dear Crew,
<<Chris>>
Just when I thought I was getting the hang of things, disaster strikes.
<<Uh-oh>>
I have a light fish load--a sleeper goby, a yellow tang (small) and a cleaner shrimp.  I just found the shrimp dead, and I am very surprised since it seemed okay as recently as this morning.
<<Was there some sort of trauma/environmental issue involved?  May be nothing more than "old age" here>>
My pH is a consistent 8.5-8.6, and I'd  been dosing twice a day with calcium to get levels up to normal (it had been hovering around 180 but even with twice a day dosing only went up to 220).
<<Mmm, though not deleterious in my opinion, your pH is a bit on the high side with no clue/explanation as to why.  And what is your alkalinity reading?  Be careful that you don't mal-affect/disrupt the balance between your alkalinity and calcium by dosing the calcium product only.  It is best in my opinion to "dose" calcium and a buffer (alkalinity) together as a two-part system unless making a "one-time adjustment" (monitored with a reliable test kit) at which time a calcium chloride or calcium gluconate supplement is effective>>
Anyway, I also added a nice zoanthid at the same time as the goby, about two and a half weeks ago.  I'd written earlier that it never
fully opened like it had in the store.  You suggested moving it lower in the tank (it had been near the top).  Since doing that a week or so ago, the zo's are slowly disintegrating, and even the pods that were opening are no longer.
<<Likely something environmental other than your lighting at play here>>
This is pretty bad--I don't know what to do or what information I could offer that could explain things.  Many thanks... here are my specs for your review--please let me know if there are any other specs which would help with a diagnosis.
Tank: 37G high w/ 10G sump and skimmer
Lighting:  130W CF
Water (RO):  Salinity .022 / pH 8.5-8.6 / Calcium 220 / LOW nitrates / Temp 83-84
<<Okay, a few things to mention here.  Firstly...STOP dosing!  On a tank this size it should be a simple matter to keep the water elements in appropriate concentration/balance with simple water changes (20% twice monthly).  Are you buffering your RO water before adding the salt mix (can be done easily with plain baking soda)?  Do you let the mix stabilize a "minimum" of 24-hours before adding it to the tank?  What brand of salt mix are you using?  Perhaps a change to one of the more consistent mixes (in my opinion) would help...Instant Ocean and Tropic Marin get my top votes.  Your salinity is a factor as well and may be a contributor to the demise of the zoanthids...increase this to natural seawater levels (1.025-1.026 s.g.).  Next..."LOW nitrates" is of no help...what is the specific reading?  Anything much over 5ppm is likely also a contributor to your coral/invert's failing health.  Again...water changes will help with this too.  Lastly, the water temp, while at the upper limit, should not have been a direct problem if the animals were properly acclimated.  But that's not to say you shouldn't do something to bring it down a bit...you don't have much "buffer zone" here if something should drive it up further>>
My water temp is obviously high.  I don't have air conditioning and keep the room dark all day long to avoid sun-heating.  I'm sure this is a cause, but is it THE cause?
<<Hard to say...maybe just a/the catalyst>>
If not, what else could it be?
<<Likely a combination of things as I've alluded>>
I know a chiller would help but would a room air conditioner be an option?
<<Indeed, yes!  As would adding a small fan to blow across the water's surface for some evaporative cooling>>
Thanks again for everything.
<<Always welcome>>
Sadly,
Chris
Los Angeles, CA
<<Chin-up mate!  Buffer your RO water, verify the efficacy of your salt mix, increase the salinity, perform a large initial water change followed by frequent partial water changes as outlined, and reduce water temperature by a few degrees and you'll likely see an improvement in overall tank health rather quickly...though it may be too late already for the zoanthids.  And not to pour salt on a open wound...but this tank is way too small for the continued good health of the yellow tang.  Please do consider trading it back to the store for a more suitable inhabitant.  EricR, Columbia, SC>>

Reef tank problems Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium – 2/20/07
Hello,
<Hi Bryan, Brenda here>
I have a 90 gallon saltwater tank that has been set up for almost eight years. For the first seven years I used 4x96W PC with actinic/white bulbs and never had any major problems. My tank had a lot of mushrooms, polyps, xenia, leathers and a few hard corals like cup corals/pagodas. Then I switched to 250W MH lighting with 14K bulbs. Over the course of 18 months I lost almost all of my coral. I found out that my calcium and alkalinity were really low (due to the MH lighting I guess).
<No, Not the lighting.>
I had been dosing just Kalkwasser up to this point, which apparently wasn't enough to meet the needs of my reef.
<Are you testing for Magnesium?>
I have since started using B-ionic two-part solution. This has helped my calcium and alkalinity to some degree but I cannot seem to keep the Ca over 380. My Alk is usually around 3.8 to 4.2. I had acquired some new corals awhile back (polyps and Montipora) and they are starting to look washed out and the polyps aren't opening up much now. My tank has very little coralline and what is there looks really washed out. I'm not sure what the problem is, but I'm about to give up on MH and go back to PC since I never had trouble before. My MH lights are 8 inches above water surface and I run them 10-11 hours a day. Do you think my tank is getting too much light or not enough?
<Not a lighting issue>
The bulbs are only a few months old (ordered from Hamilton). Why can't I keep my calcium above 380? I've even been doing double doses of B-ionic and it doesn't seem to make much difference on the Ca levels. I started adding Fiji Gold on top of Kalkwasser and Bi-ionic. My sand bed is only about one inch deep and is kind of old. Is there a possible buffering problem? I do 7-10 gallon water changes every 5-10 days using r/o water.
<Sounds like you are low on Magnesium.  Purchase a Magnesium test kit.  Magnesium should be in the 1300 – 1500 range.  Here is an article to help you understand the importance of Magnesium, and its relationship to Calcium and Alkalinity.  http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/oct2003/chem.htm  >
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
-Bryan
<Any time Bryan!  Good luck!  Brenda>

Obscenely high calcium   2/20/07
Hello WWM Crew,
  I have been using your site for 6 years now
<Whew, tempus fugit; time whips>
and I thank you for your effort to keep my animals alive. I can always find what I need by searching the e-mail caches and articles, until now.
  I have a 125g reef (180g total system volume) that I took down for 6 months while we built our home. I kept the corals in a jetted bathtub in the sun for that period of time. Shortly after setting it up again, I did a bad thing. After 10+ years in the hobby I thought I had idiot-proofed myself with all I've read and experienced; apparently I'm not there yet.
  I overdosed turbo calcium...to 1400.
<Yeeikes!>
I was thinking about something else and put in a heaping cup. I now know what a snowstorm looks like. I figured I had a couple water changes in the future to solve it, but no. I started out by doing 3X50% water changes and when that only got it down to 800 I did a 100% change.
  The day after that change my calcium was at 600. Three days later, today, my calcium is at 740. So it's rising.
<Interesting>
During that 100% change I siphoned and mixed up all the aragonite substrate just in case some of the calcium precipitated out of solution and stuck in the sand.
<Good move>
I mixed it with my hands and the siphon very thoroughly. I rinsed the live rock in saltwater before replacing it, too.
  I can't find anyone at my LFS or aquarium society who has heard of calcium so high or the anomaly of rising calcium. I use Instant Ocean, not Reef Crystals to mix my water.
  My alkalinity is at around 8dkh but it fluctuates lower.
<I'll bet... in fact... I would raise this... the best way to precipitate out the remaining excess Calcium... and do get/use a Magnesium test kit... these two processes will rectify the situation here in good time>
Obviously I can't keep alk up with calcium this high. I had tried to drive the alk higher so the calcium might be driven lower.
<Oh! Good... how?>
  As you can imagine, some of my SPS are not happy with rapid tissue necrosis. Coralline algae: not happy and receding. LPS: very happy and growing well for some reason. The local fish store was accommodating enough to take a few of my favorite SPS until I get this figured out.
<All can/will likely straighten itself out in time... Life is slow/er to respond to the insult, correction... expect a lag... sort of like auto traffic; Iraq and the U.S. economic collapse>
  Any ideas that would help me finally solve this 2 month dilemma?
  And no, my Salifert test kit is not inaccurate. The fish store came up with the same test result.
  Thank you,
  Dan
<The Magnesium (cheap supplementation with Epsom Salt, over time...), and the single part or equivalent of two-part alk/Alk. earth supplements (carbonates, bicarbonates... perhaps with a little borate)... Time going by... Bob Fenner>

My crazy "reef" system (Calcium concern)
Bob (or whoever is answering today)
<A few of us>
Let me describe my current status of a 55g I have set up.  It relies very heavily on plant life (macros)
<Mmm, macrophytes are not "plants", but algae>
in an in tank refug, has two 4' utility fixtures overdriving 2x t-8 bulbs. Plus two 4' utility fixtures behind point forward to light up the in tank refug (an egg crate crammed in there about 3" from the back glass). Back tubes are 4100K
<This temperature/incandescence is too low... should be 5,500 Kelvin minimum>
3300 lumen, top tubes are t-8 6500k and actinic. I have Chaeto, Caulerpa profilera plus some grape and a red grape.  substrate is silica play sand, rocks are silica/lava/quartz type base rocks.
<Am sure you've read admonitions re silicates and aquariums>
I also have an external sump/refug with a DIY filter box with crushed oyster shells as filter media and some red landscape lava rocks at the entrance/exit.  A mag 5 provides ~ 5x water flow between the display and sump/refug.
<Neat, sounds like a good DIY system>
Tank has a yellow tang (1 3/4 years), firefish, two wild caught gobies, watchman gobies, two "Nemos" and anemone (both about 1 year). Corals include button, zoos, yellow and green star types , frogspawn, a green leather, a pinkish/brown star polyps, several green Ricordea, open brain (~ 1.5 years), a purple gorgonian, and a dark green hard coral with small polyps.  All corals are opening nicely with nice polyp extension.  the dark green hard coral has experienced nice growth including several of my accidental frags.
I do no water changes just replace the evaporative water.
<Not indefinitely>
I use straight untreated tap water in all my tanks. but I do use cold water ran for a minute from a faucet used many times daily.
Ph is ~8.4 just before light off and under 7.8 just before lights on.  (aquarium phar***** test kit).
Whew!!!! now for my question.  I added the crushed oyster shells to get my calcium up.  the 55g and my 20l I use for macro algae culture both and 250-300 ppm calcium with the red sea test kit (measures 50ppm steps).  I got a SeaChem (sp)  test kit and then added the crushed oyster shells.  calcium rose over 6 weeks or so to 400ppm in the 55g. And has stayed there for at least 6 months.  But the 20L macro tank with the same percentage of evaporation and same substrate, has remained at under 300ppm Ca.
<The algae are taking up the alkaline earth materials.>
It seems to me that at least some low level of calcium buffering is being provided by the shells.  What do you think?
Bob
<See above. I wouldn't be concerned with the 300 ppm. Calcium if your system's are doing what you want them to. Bob Fenner>

Calcium woes
Hi I hope your all doing well! 
<smashing... I've got music... I've got rhythm.. who could ask for anything more?>
As usual I hope you can help or answer a few Calcium problems. 
<one more calcium question from you bub and I'm gonna send you a subscription to a reptile magazine <G>>
If this is Anthony 
<you guessed it <VBG>>
you may remember that I did a large massive water change this summer after I had problems raising my Calcium. After the change all my parameters were good. Calcium 380-400, DKH 10-11, 
<excellent and as they should have been>
PH after lights on for 8 HRS 8.3 , ORP 350, Magnesium 1350. 
<just ducky>
However since then my Calcium has been eroding slightly each week, even though I have gone to 15g water change every two weeks on my 125g tank. My calcium has been in the 240-260 range the last week, and I can't seem to get it to rise ( the other parameters remain unchanged). The Kalk slurry doesn't seem to get the calcium into solution, 
<it simply must... there is something else here at play>
so I tried T.M. Bio-Calcium the last two days and I have had little luck, 
<were you only using Kalk prior to this or was there some two-part as well. If two-part, be sure to shake vigorously before every single dose... the calcium part settles severely and can cause a serious imbalance in dosing>
probably because I am afraid to use too much...just putting in 3-4 teaspoons/day to see if the Calcium changes. I will try the old Kalk in a bucket, and drip 5 gallons tonight, but if the Kalk slurry doesn't work, I have little faith that the drip method will. 
<agreed>
Is there any suggestions you have on what may be going on? 
<I don't know what else if anything you are dosing... is it really just water changes and Kalk, my friend? If so... I am a bit stumped. Mag is fine... pH is reasonable. I'm assuming that you don't over buffer evap water>
I think I might just bite the bullet and buy a calcium reactor, but this is expensive...and the Kalk should work. 
<agreed on all counts here. Do buy, they are expensive, and yes... the Kalk should work>
I also realize that the reactor only works well if your reef is in "balance" to start, 
<exactly... but water changes will assure this>
so I don't think the reactor will fix my problem. 
<it may if you stop all other supplements for the reactor>
Thanks Larry P.S. All corals still seem fine, the Xenia I purchased this summer is three times the size, I've cut off a piece and it is doing well on the other side of my tank.
<awesome... and hoping to see you on a fine track soon. Anthony>

Re: Calcium woes solved? Two part-fiasco!
Thanks Anthony, great speed, and really great patience. I was wondering if I should write...
<never hesitate, my friend.. Its only a crime to not ask>
Thought I may get an answer like "how can someone who has been is this hobby for so long ask so many $#%^ calcium questions. (The reptile quote made me grin) 
<Ha! the intent <G>>
I think you may have finally said something that is the root cause of my problem. 
<Amen and pass the ammunition!>
I was using B-Ionic two part, however as knuckle heads go, I was dosing the Alk portion, but grabbed the Alk portion again for part two. 
<Doh! Houston... we have a problem>
I noticed immediately as the water clouded so I stopped and decided to pour the remaining back in the alk container.......well I put it in the calcium bottle. 
<Sweet vicar in a tutu!!!!>
It did not seem to make much difference it just precipitated a little in the bottom of the container.
<oh, you do have a reptile mag subscription coming... <G>>
However here is my problem.....since then (about two months) I have NEVER shaken the containers for fear of disturbing the precipitation. 
<and it never crossed your mind to buy a new supplement and waste $20 rather than risk the several thousand dollar investment in your tank <G>? Not to mention your time and worry on the efficacy of the matter...heehee. How about this one... if it was actually safe to keep the two parts together in the first place, you'd think they mfg would put them together in the same bottle as testimony to their marketing genius <G>. OK... one more :) Or... if it was OK to keep the two parts together as long as you didn't shake them, why not sell them in one bottle with two straws!!! More profitable and what a novel boon to sales! OK... I think I'm done now. Thank you for putting up with my sense of humor, bud. Heehee... I still can't get over the sheer number of fish friends that write in to us here at WWM for this kind of abuse. The root meaning of "aquarist" must surely be synonymous with "masochist". I love this country>
So I believe this may be my problem, 
<ahhh... ya>
although I have not used B-Ionic for about 4-5 days, the 1 gallon container is almost empty which means my water is probably unbalanced as you state below.
<"unbalanced" isn't the first word that I would use to describe your water chemistry now... but who really wants really wants to hear a Haiku that rhymes with "trucked" anyway?>
So how do I fix this? 
<"Dilution is the solution to pollution">
I hope not massive water changes again, 
<that would make you "beat like a red-headed step child" at this point. Water changes it is>
I'm on my third bucket of salt in the last few months. (I will however if it makes sense) Is there some way I can measure something to determine what is out of whack? 
<aside from the inability to maintain normal and balanced water chemistry against all odds?>
Here are some measurements I did a day or two ago with my Magnesium test. Total Alk 4 meq/l or 11.2 DKH, Borate Alk 3.5 meq/l, Carbonate Alk 1.5 MEG/l. Does this tell you anything? 
<yes... you have a complete set of test kits. Excellent my friend>
I am truly amazed that my tank has suffered no loss with my supplementing/fussing. 
<corals are quite tough... and the water changes have surely spared much>
Possibly due to not going overboard enough to have induced a snow storm. 
<agreed>
If you ever do make it up...the beers on me! Larry
<Dutch, my friend! You have been most accommodating to my sense of humour. Best regards... now go build those biceps and do some water changes! Anthony>

Re: Calcium and Two Part shenanigans
I have to respond, but am having trouble through my near convulsive laughter.....
<and never be ashamed of involuntary incontinence>
I know you should never mix the two parts together, but I applied Larry's knucklehead rule which says... do not mix equal portions together, so if I accidentally dumped a little bit of the Alk into the calcium, it would just end up on the bottom of the gallon container, and I'll just dispose of the last few inches in the bottom. I can't believe I am actually writing this. (or that I thought this was O.K.) I really was stupid.... plain and simple, to even try to justify this action! 
<Ha! alas... we all have our moments>
I will get new B-Ionic tomorrow, mix up a big batch of water, repeat as in summer...onwards and upwards. 
<rock on my brother>
BTW I don't mind any sarcasm, although I have to say I don't really find anything abusive in your writing comments. 
<all well intended at any rate <G>>
No one is harder on me than myself, you should hear what I have been calling myself this afternoon.....and to think I offer advice....maybe I should warn others to beware of the source....me! Last comment, I do read the daily writing on this site and I have laughed at the bone head moves some reefer's make...I guess I need to add my name to the list.....
<which list: bone-heads or reefers? (I'll reserve my opinion)>
hopefully I taught myself something...you can always learn...just don't do stupid things you know are stupid then ignore the consequences. Thanks Larry, I'll have a double martini to night forget the beer!
<best regards! Anthony>

The Ying-Yang of Calcium/Alkaline Reserve
Hi all,
<Hi Don!>
Hmmmm, just when I think I have a grasp on something, it slips away.
<You aren't that far away my friend!  Read on.>
First, tank spec: 75G (18x18x48) 100#LR, 1200gph flow with powerheads (stop! I know!), Remora Pro skimmer, 4" course aragonite sand bed, 110W PC Actinic 12hrs/day and 220W 10K PC 11 hrs/day, temp 80F, SG 1.025, ammonia/nitrate/nitrite 0, phosphorous 0, magnesium 1220-1280, calcium 400-420 and alk 12-15 dKH, weekly 7G water changes with IO salt. 5G refugium that has been up about 2 wks. Change water is RO/DI aerated at least 3 days then add salt and aerate 4 more days. Pods and other critters abound! Inhabitants 2 Amphiprion ocellaris, 2 Nemateleotris magnifica, 1 Lysmata amboinensis, 1 Mithrax sculptus, a colony of about 20 Parazoanthus species, a colony of about 15 Actinodiscus cardinalis, 1 Sarcophyton sp. frag (cut by Mr. Calfo himself!) assorted Astrea/Cerith snails. The mushrooms have been in the tank about 6 months and have doubled in number and after seeing Anthony's presentation a couple weeks ago am trying to muster the fortitude to hack a few off the rock and transplant them. The yellow polyps have been in about a month and already there are half dozen babies growing from the parents and coralline has gone crazy the last 3 weeks. So, something is right, would like to get the alkalinity down - pH up though. BTW, for others reading this, I am feeding the yellow polyps Fenner Food every other day and the growth has been phenomenal! (Thanks Bob!)
<If you were to ask Bob, he would tell you to stop worrying so much, a slightly depressed pH has it's advantages...but there is something you can do, no worries.>
I am adding B-ionic and SeaChem Reef Advantage, nothing else.
About a month ago I was having trouble with depressed calcium (250-300ppm) and was up to 50ml B-ionic 1 and 70ml B-ionic 2. At Craig's advice, I did 5 daily 10% (7G) water changes, backed the b-ionic down to 20ml (1ml/4G as directed) each and used SeaChem reef advantage to slowly bring the tank to 400ppm calcium. (Not difficult as the water changes go me up to about 350) Then did a calcium starve for 5 days and calculated the calcium use. Since then, I have been able to keep the calcium at 400-420ppm, thanks Craig! But, I have continued the alkalinity battle.
It has varied from 12-15dKh, occasionally down to 11 but not below, over this time. And, the pH is low 7.9 to 8.1.  About 10 days ago I brought the B-ionic down to 10ml of each (1ml / 8G as directed with dosing calc) and still can't get the alk down. I know I am flirting with a precip snow storm but can't figure out where the additional alk is coming from. Maybe the rise in coralline growth? Overfeeding?  
<It's coming from the b-ionic. The part 1 is buffer/carbonate alk additive. The part 2 is calcium, etc.  Before you had an ionic imbalance the other direction, now you are in the saturation area.>
My thoughts are this: Stop the b-ionic for a while and continue the calcium additive and monitor. Maybe bi-weekly water changes. Should I use a buffer (SeaChem marine has been suggested before). I was hesitant to add the buffer as the label states it will RAISE alk. Am I just waiting for the system to center? I can't believe that I am that far away from stability (which I am striving for before adding any more corals). Thanks much, Don
<No worries Don, you are right there. I honestly would suggest Kalkwasser dripped as usual (at night) to maintain calcium, push your pH to where you want it, and then test alk and supplement buffer/alk supplement to maintain alk. With *just* Kalk, your carbonate alk will lower over time (likely a week or so). Please don't feel alone, this is the most widely misunderstood area of marine husbandry!  Anthony wrote a piece to help simplify it for our WWM readers that he is still working on. Let me refer you to it and see if it helps you. Go to: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm  I would follow his first choices in your case and also follow his advice to maintain parameters in the mean (mid point).  Don't hesitate to write if you need any further assistance. (and let those levels fall to the mean)  Craig>

High Alkalinity & Calcium
Hello,
My alkalinity and calcium seem quite high for my FOWLR tank, yet my pH stays rather low. Alkalinity is 5 meq/L, calcium is 450, and pH ranges from 8.0 to 8.2.
<These are all fine.>
Are these numbers anything to be concerned about?
<No, not really. As long as they all stay consistent.>
What is the best way to get my pH up without getting my alkalinity and calcium any higher?
<Aggressive protein skimming to remove dissolved organics that affect pH.>
I've added quite a bit of Macroalgae and that has helped somewhat.
<Yes, helps in several ways; taking up the dissolved organics mentioned above and also consuming CO2 during the daytime.>
Thanks for your input. Chip
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Re: High Alkalinity & Calcium
Steven,
Thanks for the reply. As a follow-up, my AquaC skimmer (only 4 weeks old) occasionally goes on 'strike' for two days or more after a water change and after I've had my hands in the tank. Is it normal for it to go this long without skimming?
<Yes, it is disrupted briefly.>
It eventually resumes, but it just seems to take a while. Also, I will be putting a raccoon butterfly in this tank. I've read on WWM that they like higher pH and salinity. My salinity is currently 1.023. Should I increase it for the butterfly? Is my pH (8.0-8.2) okay?
<I would increase both to natural seawater conditions; 1.025 and 8.4>
Thanks again, Chip
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

High Alkalinity & Calcium III
Steven,
Thanks again for the reply. Okay, so how do I increase the pH without raising the alkalinity and calcium?
<Water changes, protein skimming, activated carbon, etc.>
And is the 8.4 you suggested the LOWEST the pH should go? -Chip
<About average, anywhere between 8.2-8.6 depending on time of day, supplements used, lighting, photosynthetic animals, etc. -Steven Pro>

Calcium Troubles
After having reviewed the correspondence below, I would have to recommend that this is one of those rare instances where a CaCl supplement maybe in order. With calcium levels being the only parameter out of whack and with your tank's apparently very high demand for calcium, this option gets you back on track and hopefully after that you will be able to maintain with your Ca reactor. The only other option, and what I generally recommend, is to perform a series of large water changes to correct. I would do 50% every other day until you get the everything back on track. The only problem with that is the cost and time when you take into consideration your tank's demand. You are going to have to go through a lot of salt and labor to keep up the pace with your tank. Sincerely, Steven Pro
<Thanks much Steve. I concur. Bob F>
Hi Bob,
I have a calcium related problem that you may be able to help me with as after reading all of the information posted on yours and other websites I am at a loss for what to do. A while ago I installed the Dupla Ca
reactor that we talked about. You might recall that the media supplied with this unit was very poor in terms of solubility and Ca output. The situation has not improved and I am still awaiting the arrival of some Korallith media from Diana (should hopefully arrive in the next week or two).
My tanks calcium levels have fallen to 200ppm as measured by a Hagen and Red Sea tests (both agree and are new). Alk is 120ppm, phosphate 0ppm, nitrate 0ppm, Ph between 8.2-8.5. The tank holds approx 700L, and is packed with live rock, moderately stocked with various corals, a clam and several fish (blue tang, yellow tang, two dwarf angels, bicolour blenny and 5 damsels). (see photo)
The question is, until I can get hold of more suitable reactor media how can I raise the calcium by 150-200ppm without creating other complications with ionic balance etc. I have already performed three large water changes (35%)with an Australian salt mix that has 400ppm Ca but this only pushes up the Ca by about 70ppm to then only fall again within a few days (clam and coralline algae really growing well and sucking it up I suspect).
I have been dripping in 5 litres of saturated Kalkwasser (made according to Seachem instructions with RO water), but 5 litres dripped in overnight will only raise the Ca of 150L of water by 24mg/L. I have 700L of water that I need to raise Ca in. A quick calculation suggests that I would need to drip in 17L overnight to raise the tanks water by 24mg/L. This is obviously impractical and would probably spike the pH (and at the same time my tank is probably consuming the Ca at this rate).
Other options include:
1. The liquid SeaChem supplements available in Australia (reef complete and Calcium) are from what I can gather not really suitable due to problems with ionic balance etc.
2. Kent marine turbo calcium but this (correct me if I am wrong) also has problems with creating water chemistry imbalances.
3. The 2 part Seachem powder additives Reef Builder and Reef Advantage. But again are these compatible.
My question is which path should I take? Continued large scale water changes will only stress my fish and livestock (water is mixed properly with RO, buffered and aerated etc for several days before). The volumes of Kalkwasser using a drip method are two big to add and I am not sure about the other products?
Can you please give some best bet some suggestions as to what to use until I get the Ca reactor back on track? I realize that there is probably no easy answer on this one.
Another piece of information just in, is that Seachem are apparently going to export an aragonite media to Australia, pending Quarantine approval. Are you familiar with this brand and how it stacks up as it may be the only other option to Dupla in Australia. The other medias are technically not allowed into Australia due to Quarantine issues.
Your help would be really appreciated on this one. Cheers, Paul Grundy
<Paul, I'm forwarding your query to Steve (Pro), friend, cohort here. He
knows much more than I re these matters, individual products. Cheers, Bob F>

By The Numbers....
Dear Crew,
<Scott F. your Crew Member tonight>
I have a new 20 gallon minireef with 20 lbs. live sand and 20 lbs. live rock.  It completed cycling 2 days ago, and I go back for 20 more lbs. LR and the cleaning crew tomorrow.  I use DI water and Coralife salt mix.  I have salinity at 35 and SG at 1.026 (in an attempt to mimic natural seawater as best I can).  My salt mix tests out at a pH of 8.0, alk of 3 meq/L (or approx. 8.4 dKH), with a Ca level of 510 ppm.
<Wow! That's really high....>
This last figure seemed a bit high to me, but I thought maybe it will work out well once I put my LR and LS and critters in.  (I ran the system with just the salt water for three days before adding anything to get a good feel of all the equipment, evaporation, etc., as this is my first marine and reef tank.)  The current tank water tests out as follows: ammonia - 0, nitrite - 0, nitrate - 4 mg/L, Ca - 500 ppm, pH - 7.95, alk - 3 meq/L.  I am concerned about that high Ca and relatively low pH.  Hangers-on with the rock included several species of sponge (including a beautiful 3.5" pink vase sponge, orange ball, various encrusting and boring, red finger), several anemones (sponge, turtle grass) as well as a gorgonian of some sort and several other little mobile creatures (snails, crabs, etc.) and sessile things as yet unidentified.  I lost a couple of the sponges in the cycling, but want to keep the rest.  Anyway, I am afraid to use a 2-part Ca buffer to raise pH since my Ca is already so high.
<Well, the alk is quite adequate...And is a good indication that your system can hold it's pH to a certain point...When did you take the pH reading? As you know, it is often lower right after the lights come on...>
One more thing -- I have only been running my lights 5 hours per day until the cleaning crew arrives, so I know that is a factor.  Should I do anything at this point to raise the pH?  Just leave it be for a little while longer?
<Yep- I'd leave it be...>
I would use Kalk but w/ the 20 gallon and no sump, this would be really difficult.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much! Erin
<Well, Erin- you're doing a great job with regular testing. However, if it were me, I'd do exactly what you're thinking...Give things a bit more time, and wait until you can ramp up the lighting for a longer photoperiod. Also, don't get overly fixated on specific "numbers", as we hobbyists tend to do...Yes, it is important to achieve certain minimum water quality targets, but it is not worth you tearing your hair out! Just relax and let your animals "talk" to you...If things are out of whack, they'll tell you in many ways- believe me! Perform aggressive and appropriate regular maintenance (water changes, etc). Just hang in there- You're doing fine. I'll bet that the pH will correct itself in time...If not let's talk again...Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Calcium
I tested my tank for calcium and i found that i have 700ppm. I know it should be at 350ppm-450ppm. Is there any harm in having 700ppm.
<Yes... a few important problems... inability of your livestock to uptake other materials... precipitation of carbonates...>
How do i lower it
etc?
<Hmm, stop doing whatever you're doing to elevate it... change some water with pre-made synthetic of lower calcium concentration... There are a few ways to extract biominerals that we can discuss if necessary... Bob Fenner>
-Matt

Help? Question
Hi, I have an question to ask you if you don't mind. I have a 55 G reef tank that has been set up now for about a year. Everything is testing fine but my alk. is testing at 5.00 meq/l and my ph is 8.0 How can by ph not be higher than this value if my alkalinity is high? 
<Easily... these measures are not directly positively correlated. Alkalinity is a measure of.... resistance to downward movement of pH... is simply a static value... a place... one can be high, the other low...>
I'm trying to get my ph to a stable 8.2. I did accomplish this for a time with Proper PH 8.2 buffer but it dropped back to 8.0. My calcium is about 460. 
<Ah! Likely your focus on driving the biomineral content of your water is your real nemesis here... self-caused. Please read through the various sections on pH, alkalinity, calcium... posted on our site: WetWebMedia.com and accompanying FAQs pages>
What is causing my ph to drop if my alk. levels are high? Please help... thanks
<You can only help yourself... give up your fixation on any one given value... the linearity of your thinking is the source of the "trouble" here. Bob Fenner.>