Bob or Scott V's approval. Reef set-up     6/17/10
Hello Bob, Scott, everyone else in crew land.
<Hello Jeremiah.>
Hope this finds everyone happy and fed! I do have a couple quick questions but I will get to that in a second. I'd like to give a run down of my gear for final approval and my gratitude to the site, and again thanks to Bob and Scott V. for getting me thus far. 3yrs of WWM, Bob's writings, and Scott's patience, I'm ready for my reef. I know that taking almost 3 years to start a tank might sound ridiculous, but I can only imagine the time, MONEY, and wet lives I have saved from taking the time to...as Bob says...READ!!!! I have learned so much and knowledge truly is power, especially in this hobby!
<Congratulations and thank you for all the kind words.>
Thanks to that I have one whole "Reef Room" in the basement. It holds a 75 gallon starphire tank, drilled with [2] 1.5in drains fitted with a [custom blue...thanks Mike] Glassholes.com 1500gph box [the wife let me paint the
room to match the overflow box]. Also another 1.5in drain a little lower going to a "future" closed loop, currently capped. All plumbing is in flexible, braided 1.5 inch pvc draining to a 55gal sump. One drain going straight to the skimmer section [10gal] of the sump, one drain split with one half going to the fuge section of sump [approx 15.5 gal], the other half merely a bleeder line going to the skimmer section. As soon as I drill it, there will be a 55gal DSB fuge halfway between DT and sump on its own stand, positioned on the overflow side. Once its set in place [after live rock curing for water change purposes] the current fuge line will drain to that tank, with the drains [2] from the 55gal fuge going straight to the return section [10gal] of the sump for pod transport heee [that'll be approx 165gal total system water, not too bad eh]! I'll leave the small fuge in the sump for RDP since I want the 55gal fuge to be a display as well with the lighting on same timeframe as DT. As far as equipment, in the sump I have an Eheim 1262 for the return pump with 3/4in braided flex going up the back of the display, wyed into 2 returns with LocLine on the ends, Aqua-C urchin pro skimmer with Mag 5 pump, and one of two ML 150w stealth heaters in the baffles from skimmer to return pump, with the other being in the DT. Up top I have a Nova Extreme 8x54w fixture, [6] 10k bulbs and [2] actinics, 1st hr the 2 actinics and 2 10ks, 10hrs all, then 1hr actinic/10k. 2 Koralia #'4's for extra movement, one on each side pointing toward the front pane. 50gpd dolphin Aqua fx RO filter. Milwaukee brand
refractometer and ph pen. Coralife brand digital thermometer, hydrometer, and shoulder length gloves. I'm using the instant ocean salt mix and reef master test kit. Might I say that every time I go into this room I throw on my GH.com shirt for full effect [dope aquarium stuff haha]!!!
<Haha, Mike will love hearing that!>
I'd also like to add that I accomplished all the above with only 2 emails [3 now], a few follow ups, and a !@#$ LOAD of reading. Literally a couple hundred hours of READING, whether it was Bob's books or using WWM's search tools and indices! Never once have I even been in a saltwater fish store.
Everything came from here, online. Which brings me to my question. I would like to ask your opinion re worthy etailers for live rock and what you think of the rock that's available right now [took too long for Kaelini haha], what would your pick be? I was thinking of going with 40pds of Vanuatu and 55pds of Bali Alor, to diversify life. Just wanted to ask your thoughts first.
<This will be fine for rock. There are so many etailers selling rock nowadays, with widely varied prices. I would just shop around a bit and see what kind of deals you can get. The BB type forums such as our own http://bb.wetwebmedia.com/ are a great place to talk with others about who has the deal going on right now. Short of that my steady backup to compare others to is Liveaquaria.com.>
Do you see anything wrong, or would you change anything with what I got system wise? What do you think?
<Your system sounds great. The only thing I see to warn you about is the refugium draining back into the tank. This does have many benefits, but just be aware you will likely have some microbubbles in the display you will need to deal with, likely with some sort of baffle where the line discharges.>
Bob, I hope they paid you well for the jury duty, <<Zip... the parking cost... lunch, fuel, and time loss is considerable. RMF>> I would rather have teeth pulled! Your wisdom and opinions are appreciated. All this is thanks to you and everything you guys do! The beer is still on me one day!
<Will be the jury pay in itself!><<Oh yeah!>>
Thanks again and look forward to your reply.
Jeremiah
<Welcome, enjoy the new system. Your research and patience will pay off. Scott V.>

Reef Setup Critique – 06/08/10 Hey guys love the site. I'm planning for my first big tank and I made a VERY advanced CAD drawing for you to critique. It’s a 240g Starphire tank. Can you lend a hand and tell me if there is anything you would change? I really appreciate any help you can give me knowing how busy you guys are. Mike Z <<Well Mike (or Dr. John? [name on drawing]… or Cyrus? [name on email addy]…), I’m more than happy to offer my opinions. If I don’t mention something it’s likely because I thought it to be okay as is, but do feel free to specifically question anything later on if you wish. Let’s start at the top and work our way down… Your choice of lighting looks fine, though I would make mention that a pendant system for the halides, utilizing a high quality reflector (my vote goes to the CoralVue ‘Lumen Bright’ reflector…I use these over my 96”x30”x30” reef display), will make the most of your selection in this relatively tall tank. I also very much suggest a 10K bulb over a higher Kelvin temperature bulb for the increased intensity/penetration and overall “more natural” appearance, especially considering the presence of the VHOs which will presumably be Actinic… Moving to the display, I see you have the Tunze controller but don’t specify which 6100 series Stream pump you’ll use. My vote goes to the newer model 6105, just cus I like new toys [grin]. I also suggest you research and configure these flow pumps to provide a “gyre” like flow within the display. Doing so, you will also find the “educators” on the returns to be unnecessary. Do also reconsider the amount of rock you plan to use. Unless it is very dense, 350lbs is just too much if you plan to leave any room for corals to grow and for fishes to swim and grow. A “low profile” with some open space all around will not only look better but will also “function” better re overall water movement/elimination of detritus accumulation/etc. You’ll still need to provide adequate hiding/territory for your fishes based on your stocking plan so it will take a bit of thought, but all will appreciate the open water above the reef…and this will be especially attractive to your fishes/corals with an alternating Gyre flow pattern. As for the oxygenator (Söchting Oxydator), you can use it if you wish, but personally I wouldn’t bother (here in the display, or in the ‘fuge). The use of a good skimmer coupled with good water movement will be more than adequate… Moving on to your plumbing I want to state that I “do not” like valves on gravity drain lines. Your 1.5” drains will safely gravity drain about 750gph each. The addition of any type of valve greatly reduces this and also increases the likelihood of an obstruction at some point. Control your flow rate with a gate-valve on the output side of the return pump (as you show in the drawing), and remove these from your drain lines... Looking at your sump/refugium and the equipment within I think the overall layout and equipment placement is fine though a somewhat larger vessel would be a plus, if this is a possibility. I feel with the use of the vegetable and mud refugium the denitrator is not needed and system would be better served by a phosphate reactor. I also feel the UV sterilizer to be a benefit not worth the maintenance hassle, and even counterproductive to a plankton-generating refugium. Your skimmer is “ok,” but my choice would be a quieter and less power hungry needle-wheel model. Suggest you “split” your heater in to two 250w models for reasons of redundancy and to reduce the chances of cooking the system in the event of a problem with a unit. As for your top-off controller; while the air-pressure switches (I use one to control my RO unit to fill my 50g FW reservoir in my garage) are much more reliable than a float-valve, for the investment here I very highly recommend the Tunze Osmolator for keeping your sump topped up. Now for that check-valve on the return pump…remove it and position your standpipes to control how much transient water volume drains back to the sump. I assure you that sooner or later that check-valve will fail…and it is also robbing much efficiency from your return pump. I think that about does it… I’m not sure what that “backup pump” is about, but the “float switch” causes me a little concern. And you will also be better served by an “in-line” chiller over a “drop-in” model, but I think it a small matter here. Boy, there’s a heck of a lot going on in this drawing but I think I’ve touched on everything I wanted to mention. Be chatting, I’m sure… Eric Russell>>

Re: Reef Setup Critique – 06/09/10 Eric, <<Mike>> Thanks for the quick reply. <<Most welcome>> For aquarium gods you guys respond very quickly. <<Ha! Speaking for myself, I think you give more credit than deserved re your comparison to deities…but thanks much for the vote of confidence [grin]>> I (Cyrus Michael) am putting this together for Dr. John. <<Ah..okay>> Made notes on your lighting recommendations. It’s retro-fitted into the canopy and yes VHO will be actinics. As for the rocks, for a 240 do you think 275lb's is the right number? <<That’s hard to say as it depends much on the type/quality of the rock…but it will likely take less than you imagine. I would suggest starting with a couple boxes (120-160 lbs total) and see what it looks like and go from there. My own 500g system (375g display, 75g sump, 55g refugium) probably has no more than about 200lbs of rock…but I do also employ 1500 lbs of live sand via my DSBs in both the display and the refugium>> The Söchting Oxydator in the display was a redundancy, in the event of a catastrophic failure it would supply vital oxygen to the water; do you think it will work in this regard? <<I honestly don’t know, but it also can’t hurt. Having suffered a wipeout myself due to a failure (caused when a GFCI tripped) of the recirculation pump…with extenuating circumstances…I found it easy and comforting to simply build in some redundancy (i.e. – a second pump on a different circuit)>> I have the denitrator already and it worked wonders on other tanks I’ve had, I can run it in a heavier phosphate removing mode. <<Real good>> I removed the valves on the drains as per your recommendations <<Is best>> and doubled down on the heaters. <<Also better>> The reason I didn't go with the Tunze top-off is that I am running the top-off for evaporation straight off the RO filter. <<Yikes! Not recommended my friend… Keeping up with bio-mineral content can be difficult enough on a large system without putting yourself in a hole by adding the “stripped- out” water directly from the RO filter. I recommend filtering in to a storage vessel and then either treating this water before using as top-off water (can be as simple as placing a large filter bag full of fine aragonite sand in the reservoir)…or my preferred method…running the filtered water through a Kalkwasser Reactor on its way to the sump for use as top-off (this is where the Osmolator would come in). You could utilize the SpectraPure device to keep the top-off “reservoir” filled>> The check valve was another level of redundancy, <<But doomed to fail…sometime>> the standpipes will be adjusted for the sumps water holding capabilities. <<A much more reliable alternative>> I also am drilling a small anti-siphon into the LocLine return pipe at its highest point in the display tank, <<Also not a good idea, in my opinion. While a popular solution, these “holes” often become plugged…usually right before you need one to “work.” It’s much better to simply position the return outlet so it, like the standpipes, will not drain/siphon more water from the display when the pump(s) is off than the sump can hold. Some will argue that this limits the returns ability to provide good water movement within the display. My reply to that is… Don’t rely on the sump return for this. There are many devices/flow pumps available today that provide much better/more useful water motion than the return. Besides, keeping the flow rate from the sump to a “minimum” helps greatly with plumbing issues>> but I removed it for better flow. <<Ah>> I did add a redundant backup return pump activated by a float switch in the event the primary goes down, is there a better way to serve this purpose? <<Nothing is completely foolproof, but running “two” return pumps (e.g. – two smaller pumps vs. one large pump) on separate circuits is a more reliable option>> Are you a fan of flexible PVC for the plumbing? <<I am...the gentle curves (where space allows) are much less constricting than elbows. Some will argue the interior surface has more “drag” than standard smooth pipe…but with properly sized throughputs and matched-up pumps this shouldn’t be an issue>> Also is there any benefit to running both drain pipes into one pipe that goes into one sock? <<Sure, for the obvious simplicity/maintenance re…but this will also reduce overall drain flow capacity somewhat and will need to be considered/allowed for>> I appreciate your help on this very much. <<Is truly my pleasure>> Thank You, Cyrus Michael "Mountain Dew" Julius Zafaranloo III <<Now that’s a name! Cheers my friend… Eric Russell>> R2: Reef Setup Critique – 06/10/10 So Eric, we are down to one issue, the RO water. <<Okay>> Demineralization would be an issue even with the Ca reactor on the system? <<Can be, yes…depending on coral species and stocking densities. I find on my heavily stocked SPS (predominantly) system that even with a Calcium reactor “and” a Kalkwasser reactor I often have the need for additional supplementation>> So if I understand you correctly, could I run the RO directly into the Kalk reactor, then have the top-off system trigger the pump for the top-off? <<Pump? If the RO is hooked up to the Kalkwasser reactor wouldn’t the water be pushed to the sump via the mains water pressure?...thus, why the need for a pump (or does the RO utilize a pump to boost said water pressure?)? At any rate, yes, if the air-switch in the sump is controlling a solenoid that turns water on/off to the RO units then it is feasible to route the RO to the Kalk reactor and then on to the sump>> On another note are you a fan of the Tunze Wavebox 6212 (I give that model because I am not sure if the 7095 will control the 6515)? <<Not especially, though I’ve not used one…mainly because I don’t like the size/bulk of it…even in my 8’ display>> Thanks again, Mike Z <<Happy to share… EricR>> R3: Reef Setup Critique – 06/10/10 Hello Eric, <<Hiya Mike>> I forgot to ask, since you’re a fan of needle-wheel skimmers is there a brand that stands out for you? <<Several, actually… I currently employ an “old” Euro-Reef CS12-3 upgraded with ER modified Eheim pumps, and love it. Euro-Reef has changed their name and are now called Reef Dynamics. Royal Exclusiv (Bubble King/Vertex) and H&S also provide some very nice high-quality skimmers…other options worth considering are the offerings from Deltec, AquaC (though this is not a needle-wheel model), Reef Octopus, and of course the Aerofoamer driven Tunze skimmers>> Also, how about having two pipes drain into one 7" filter sock, can you think of a disadvantage to that? Mike Z <<Should work fine… EricR>> R4: Reef Setup Critique – 06/10/10 Oops, I know that you guys appreciate good grammar so please replace my "your" with a "you're" or a "you are" in case you are not a fan of contractions. Mike Z <<No worries, mate…was taken care of. EricR>> R5: Reef Setup Critique – 06/10/10 I say pump because it seems most top-off units are some type of low water detector that triggers a pump that's in a top-off reservoir to fill the sump, no? <<Yes, indeed you are correct…but you were talking about plumbing the RO directly to the Kalkwasser reactor in which case the mains water pressure would do the “pumping”>> Anyway, if I am going to be dosing vitamins, Coral Vite and stuff like that isn't it a moot point? <<Depends again on the stocking/health, and the rate of growth you are shooting for>> I will have mostly softies with some LPS and fish, really no SPS besides monti's. Now for something completely different. For aquascaping I will be getting some nice 20 - 30 lb pieces of rock that will need securing. My plan is to drill a hole and insert nylon bolts and nuts, is this ok? <<Should be, yes…though “bolting” may not be necessary. You will likely find that much of the rock can be secured by simply drilling/inserting rods of inert material to secure (nylon, acrylic, PVC, etc.)>> Thanks again Eric <<Quite welcome Mike… Eric R>> R6: Reef Setup Critique – 06/13/10 It's been a couple hours since I have emailed you guys so I guess it's time to bug you again. <<No worries Mike>> Onto the lighting...the tank has a canopy with 2 VHO's (I'm going to run actinics on this) and 3 mogul sockets for 400W metal halides. <<I hope there is some means of venting air/heat from this canopy>> What brand bulbs do you guys like? <<Often, what you pay for is what you get… Some bulbs worth looking at include offerings from Ushio, Hamilton, Phoenix and Aqualine-Buschke (not necessarily in that order). I’m currently trying out the CoralVue ReefLux 10K bulb and thus far consider this my fave among 10K bulbs…but it is still early in the testing>> Being that I have actinics would you recommend 14k or 10k? <<A multitude of factors at play here (do peruse WWM re), not the least of which is the planned stocking of this system. Generally my preference would be 10K…more natural appearance, better PAR/penetration…but if this tank is not going to house “high light requiring organisms” the 400w 10K may prove to be too much; considering the close proximity of the bulbs to the water’s surface determined/limited by the use of the canopy, in which case “less potent 14K bulbs” may prove more appropriate for the organisms being kept>> Thanks, Mike <<Happy to share… EricR>> R7: Reef Setup Critique – 06/14/10 Eric, Should I downgrade to 3 x 250W MH's or maybe just 2 x 400W on each end of the canopy? Mike Z <<Hi Mike… I would keep the number of bulbs over this 6’ tank to three. And if I recall accurately this will be a “mixed reef” so 250w bulbs should be plenty strong enough (again, many factors can affect this e.g. – bulb type/brand//color temperature, water clarity, reflector quality, etc.), even with the less than optimum reflectors I would expect to find in a canopy installation. Organisms with high light demands can be placed higher up in the water column and or more directly beneath the bulbs. The lower wattage bulbs would certainly help with energy consumption, and may also help with heat gain. EricR>>

Re: Setup Critique, thru hull diameters mostly    6/17/10 Eric, <Mmm, he's out with a medical issue.> Attached a photo of the tank with newspaper rock to think of aquascaping ideas. Any downsides you can think of or any improvements u would implement to this? <Am not a big fan of such rock stacking m'self... How about bommies instead?> Also, buying the PVC parts and I forgot to ask you- I was thinking of putting disconnect unions at the drain lines by the sump and by the tank just in case I need to remove the sump, is that a bad idea? <A good idea. True-unions> I don't remember if we discussed this but BOTH my drains and returns are 1.5" bulkheads. <I'd make these 2" ID> I am going to keep the 1.5" to the drain and reduce the return PVC to 1", are you OK with that setup? <Not I> Hope all is well and again thank you for helping me. Mike Z <Read here Mike: http://wetwebmedia.com/SystemPIX/PlumbingPix/Oneinchart.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> Re: Setup Critique   6/17/10 GEEZ sorry to write you so many times but that is the burden of being a genius, is it worth it to you guys?? Anyway, I have attached 2 schemes. Being that all the holes drilled in the tank are 1.5" bulkheads (weird isn't it???), <Nope> do you think I should do the standard one drain one return per overflow (scheme 1) or both drains in one and both returns in the other overflow (scheme 2)?? <Two larger drains one return per overflow> Scheme 2 would reduce head length on the pump and be a joy to plumb. What do you think? <Scheme 2... and bump the inside diameter of each to 2". BobF>

Re: Setup Critique   6/17/10 Hi Bob, I hope Eric is OK. SO you don't like the 1.5" for drainage even thought they do 1500gph which is 7 times flow for this tank? <Yep> Upgrading the holes will be a nightmare, there is not enough room in the overflow to put the 2 2" bulks in. <Rats!> as far as the returns are you against doing the 1" ( I know the article said not to use it for drain but didn't mention return) ? <Whatever the pump discharge ID is... is what I would use> Also, do you think I could plumb the sump with 2 drains in one overflow and both returns in the other? <Could... if there's room, yes> It would make plumbing so much easier , is would reduce head pressure and would equalize return outputs....Please say this is OK!!!! <Head?! Who said head!?> HAHAHH, anyway take car <care?> of yourself Bob good to finally get the legend himself. I want to thank you for the years of education you have given me. Mike Z <Glad to have contributed... B>

Re: Setup Critique, pb  6/24/10 Hi Guys. Ordered all the parts I need now I just want to make sure I have covered my PVC basics. I have attached the plans for the plumbing. Please expose any follies I have made. I know you guys aren't ball valve fans on the return but I only kept it because I have the bleeder line in. <Is fine> I was thinking of removing the bleeder line and if I do I would pull that other ball valve as well. I could have sworn I saw that bleeder setup on your site somewhere, why exactly do people install them?? <To divert/use water flow that they consider excess, rather than just restricting the discharge> I was thinking water changes but that makes no sense because it will only release a little water out of the tank before the overflows will stop pulling water down. Thanks again for ALL of your help. mike <Well... I'd use the "diverter line" to service the UV rather than sharing the ETSS Red Dragon pump... the skimmer needs the flow, and slightly higher pressure that the UV would be better run w/o. IF the UV is not fitted with true union connections, I would make sure and provide these, for easy removal of the unit for periodic checking, servicing, replacing of the germicidal lamp/s. Lastly, the general circulation/return pump... IF the FIP/MIP fitting on the discharge is 1" (or even less) there is no benefit in grading up to 1.5" ID through a wye on the return... Either use a reducer bushing of 1" to the 1.5", or just keep the discharge at 1" all the way. BobF>

Re: Setup Critique, pb follow-up    6/25/10 Hi again. So I was thinking that since I am running the drains at one end and the returns on the other end of the tank that I should just forget the wye splitter on the return all together and just run my return pump straight to one return bulkhead and cap off the other hole. <Yes> I mean what really is the point to split one pump to two returns anyway, if its flow I have 3 Tunze 6100's which should be enough. What do you guys think? Thanks so much, Mike <Welcome. B>

Converting to a reef system   6/2/10
Hello again Bob and crew or whoever gets this,
<Hi Jill, Simon with you this afternoon!>
I have severe frustration's regarding my FOWLR tank that I want to convert to an anemone/reef friendly system.
<Ok>
After not being happy for a while with my saltwater LFS I decided to just take matters into my own hands before I finally just give up all together. Here is my system info:
125 gallon, 80/100 lbs live rock, Marineland protein skimmer (not producing enough skimmate), two BioWheels (removed one and replaced with live rock), Harlequin Tusk, Foxface, Copperband Butterfly, Flame Hawkfish, Diamond Goby.
<Hmm, a difficult fish by all accounts>
Ammonia/Nitrite 0, 1.024 Sg, <low> KH 10, PO .5ppm, <high> Nitrate 80ppm, <High> Calcium 520, <Also high> I use RO/DI water with Seachem Reef Salt. This is after a 35 gallon water change this week and a 15 gallon water change last week. I use Chemipure in my filters (replaced one a month) and foam pads replaced weekly.
<I would just remove these>
I also clean the skimmer weekly. I recently (within the last couple of weeks) got rid of my two puffers. I also just recently found out I have been way way overfeeding my tank so have reduced my feedings to two cubes a day.
<Ok. It may take some time to get this nitrate down. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm The phosphate should come down with it>
I, of course, am fighting some hair algae and lots of that red turf algae I believe. It's covering my live rocks.
<Do you mean BGA or Cyanobacteria? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm >
I'm wondering what my best course of action should be to get my tank reef ready. How aggressive can I be with my water changes until I get things back in line?
<As ‘aggressive’ as you like really. Just make sure that it is pre-mixed, aerated, heated first. Also make sure there are no areas in your system that are harbouring build-ups of waste (such as filter pads)>
I have been fighting this protein skimmer for 9 months now, I'm lucky to get 1 cup of icky stuff a week, and am looking into getting an Octopus skimmer.
<I’ve heard good things about these>
I just need to see if it fits into my sump.
<Do you employ a refugium as well? A great tool in this fight http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm>
I have always had high nitrates, hence the removal of one Biowheel. Do you think I would be fine removing the other Biowheel?
<I would, yes, but I doubt that this is the source of your issues.. these do not trap debris>
I also read lots and lots of FAQs about the red turf algae and am wondering if I should remove the live rock that it's on and replace this with some new "live" rock?
<I would rinse it in some water that you remove from the system.. perhaps blow debris out of it using a turkey baster.. this could be a source, especially if you used to have two puffers in there>
I have two corner overflows into my tank but think I still might need to increase my water flow.
<Good water flow is essential.. if you have the money look into Vortech pumps – superior to every other method of providing flow IMO>
I do not add any chemicals to my water unless needed, my magnesium levels have been good ( I didn't test them tonight though) and since I switched to reef salt my calcium is high. How do I lower this?
<have you tested the make-up water for Ca before adding it to the system?>
Is it a danger to anything?
<Can cause a precipitation, and irritate animals>
I do have trouble keeping the KH high enough but it has gone from 7.5 to 10 now as I have been using Seachem Reef builder.
<Ahh! This is a ‘three part’ additive… contains ca & mg as well, probably why your calcium is high. You want to fins a method of raising dKH without raising calcium http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm>
I brought my water into my LFS to be tested and he said my Sg was high at 1.027, he used a refractometer and I just have one of those plastic hydrometers and
tested it at 1.025 that same day so I'm now a little leery about going above 1.024 on my hydrometer.
<These can be inaccurate… best to purchase your own refractometer – good ones can be found cheaply.. try D&D aquarium solutions>
I was lucky enough to have a finger leather coral come in on my live rock with some star polyps, how these haven't died yet is beyond me.
<Tough corals>
They do seem to close up when I do water changes but all lights are off so I'm assuming that's normal?
<They will close up yes>
Basically, I'm just not sure where to start to correct this all. 40 Gallon water changes every week? I don't want to stress my fish out anymore than I already have with my in-experience.
<Once you get the nitrates down they will thank you for it.. especially that Copperband>
Thanks once again and take care.
Jill
<No problem Jill.. do research here on WWM and write back if you have any more questions. Simon>

Re: Converting to a reef system   6/3/10
Hi again Simon and thank you for taking on my questions.
<No problem Jill>
About my calcium levels. This was high (in the 500 range) before I started using the buffer to raise my KH levels.
<Have you tested your test kit? Might be worth getting your results verified, perhaps by a different brand>
I tested my source water mixed with the Seachem reef salt and the calcium was around 320.
<Are you sure? I have used this salt and found it to be much higher than that>
Could it be possible that old baby clam shells are leeching calcium into my system?
<No.. you would have to have a very low pH in the system to dissolve these to any extent that they contributed>
My Goby uses them to "decorate" his cave so I have left them in there for him. The clam shells were left over from the puffers.
<There is no problem with these>
After reading the link you sent me too, I'm figuring I should use baking soda to raise my KH instead of the buffer.
<Food grade can be used, yes, until your Ca & dKH are balanced. Mg is important in this relationship as well – needs to be balanced http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-06/rhf/index.php
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm?h= >
Maybe a decent skimmer will help?
<With the nitrate? Indirectly by removing more waste from the system, yes it will>
When all is said and done, I would like to invest in a calcium
reactor at some point but not until I get it under control.
<Do you have much/ many Scleractinian corals? If not, then such apparatus is not really necessary>
As far as the red algae, it isn't BGA, I went through that hassle and my LFS had me use ChemiClean. I'm wondering if that wasn't the start of
all these other issues,
<Mmmm.. other issues? You mean the Calcium? No.>
outside of the nitrate/phosphate problem that I take full responsibility for. After looking at the pictures on this site I have confirmed its the red hair algae stuff.
<Standard algae control methods apply here.. including the nutrient control that you are working on, as well as lots of elbow grease>
I checked out the Vortech pumps. That is now added to my "shopping" list. I really like the idea of the motor on the outside of the tank. I figured I would have to go with the model MP40 for my size tank.
<Yes – The best pump available>
Ouch!! But I bet it will be worth it.
<When you’re on your on your way home with it sitting on the front seat, you are not quite sure. As soon as you plug it in, it becomes clear why this SO worth it>
I have only live rock, live sand, and some macroalgae in the tank. I really can't figure the reason I am
getting such high Ca when it use to be on the low side. The clam shells are the only thing I can come up with that has changed.
<No.. not this. You have added it somewhere. You write well and with intelligence.. use the articles by RHF, I give you good odds that you should be able to solve this>
One more question on calcium reactors. My understanding is that will help keep the Ca / KH in balance correct?
<Only once they are balanced. At the moment you are unbalanced. Calcium reactors are an automated method of adding two (sometimes three) part solutions to your system. They will not help with your present problem>
Would it add to my high calcium problem at this point?
<Yes>
Thank you...Clueless Jill
<No prob.s… Knackered after moving house and ripping walls down Simon>
Thank you...Clueless Jill

Reverse osmosis...? 5/19/10
Dear Mr. Fenner,
I have been raising freshwater Angelfish and African Cichlids for about a year and a half as a hobbyist in South Florida.
I feel like I want to try a reef tank. I purchased a 120 at an auction. I need to put about $100.00 in the pump and miscellaneous items to put it together. I have been using a sediment=large carbon block=small carbon block for some time now. I very rarely have to use Prime to adjust my water. Right now I have a new 150 gallon a day reverse osmosis system I've been thinking of setting up for my Angelfish babies and the reef tank. If you would be so kind as to advise me of your opinion of my ideas.
<What, which ideas?>
I would really appreciate it. After reading your article on the net; Sea Water, Natural or Synthetic? I believe you know what you are doing.
Many thanks,
Garry
<? Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm
BobF>

New Tank Setup And A Clownish Situation 4/27/10
Hello WWM Crew,
<Hi Jeremy>
Okay so here is the deal. I just got an amazing new 200 gallon tank given to me by a doctor who no longer wanted it in his office.
<Lucky you!>
It is a complete setup with a stand and canopy, T5 HO lighting, as well as filters. It was a African Cichlid setup but he gave those away. I plan to go reef but here is the catch. It comes with 2 filters a Fluval FX5 and the Rapids Pro 3 Plus w/ Protein Skimmer witch
<no witches here, just whiches>
I am kinda getting the hint from reading your articles that these would be nitrate factories
(the canister filter at least).
<Canister filters can become nitrate factories if the pads are not cleaned/changed regularly and the waste on the pad is allowed to denitrify. The Rapids Pro 3 is actually too small for a 200 gallon tank. They are rated for 150 gallon max.>
I am not overly experienced in Reef Setups as this will be my first. I have however had a predatory FOWLR 90
gallon marine setup before so I'm not new to the marine requirements. Now I would like to do this right the first time so if you could give me some start up tips that would be great. I have 150 pounds of Texas Holey Rock that came with the tank. First question is can this be used in marine setups
<You could use this, is basically limestone which will aid in keeping you pH stable as this rock is soluble and will slowly leach calcium, magnesium and carbonates into the water.>
and question 2 will I be able to seed the tank with LR and have eventual coraline coverage on this rock?
<Should, the limestone would be a good base for coraline growth.>
Also should I get a sump and do a refugium and try to sell the filters I have?
<I would, they will improve water quality by reducing nitrates.>
Then there is the maintenance schedule I have never had a tank this big but have always battled with high nitrates.
<Excess nutrients need to be exported efficiently to prevent high nitrate levels. Stocking level also comes into play here. An efficient protein skimmer is most beneficial here.>
What would be an effective water change amount in gallons per week to keep nitrates as close to zero as possible
and of course I'll have to avoid over feeding... Also the tank has already cycled and inside it I have a Maroon Clownfish (starting slow)... wanted a clown of decent size lol even though its quite a bit more aggressive. However I noticed a small white cyst looking protrusion on his mouth this morning. I don't have a picture but its only on the
mouth so I think I can rule out a parasite. Could it be just a possible injury from something inside the tank?
<Yes, likely.>
Anyways if you can give me any tips or thoughts you have I am sure they would be beneficial. Also I will continue to read on and continue learning as I go with hopefully very few mistakes.
<I think at the stage you are in, it will be better to provide you a link to our marine index. Topics/articles found
here should answer all if not most of your questions. Do read, then write if necessary.><<James... where is this link? RMF>>
Thanks in advance for the words and wisdom.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jeremy Wright

Brand New Reef, Stocking Questions/Marine Set-up 2/22/10
Hello guys & gals
<Hello Chris, and please...all the double spacing is not necessary.>
The set up of my tank is fully complete and is currently going through the cycling process Tank is 155 gallons and has approximately 150 lb of live rock
<Good.>
Filtration is a sump with a built in refugium along with a monster skimmer
Calcium reactor is in place
Lighting consists of 2 VHO Actinic and 3 x 20,000K MH.
I have 3 crabs that came along for the ride and 2 baby star fish about the size of a dime
My question is in regards to stocking
I'm thinking to get an anemone first so that it can establish its location in the tank..once there, I'll start to load with corals (primarily softies to begin with)
<You run a risk of the anemone stinging corals and/or other sessile invertebrates should it decide to move.>
Fish will probably begin with a clown or a mated pair if I can find them and then go from there.
Clean up crew will be introduced as soon as I can find a local supplier...
Can you offer any suggestions regarding stocking order or am I on the right path.
<Future fish selected should be compatible with each other and timid fish should be introduced first. Do read/learn about desired fish as to compatibility, requirements/needs before buying.>
Let me know
thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Chris

Re Brand New Reef, Stocking Questions/Marine Set-up 2/22/10
Thanks James
<You're welcome.>
The Reason for introducing the anemone first was so that it could establish it's location in the tank and then add the corals afterwards in an effort to reduce this possibility. I was told that once settled in a spot, they generally don't move.
<No guarantees here.>
Another question is in regards to powerheads. I am purchasing a Koralia 4 and a Koralia 8. From the FAQ it was stated to have them at opposite sides of the tank pointing in to each other. Question is, how important is a wave
maker in all this and can I get by without as they are pretty expensive...
<If you are referring to the Koralia Wavemaker, this unit was specifically designed for use with the 12 volt Koralia Pumps. I'm thinking you are getting the standard Koralia 115 volt pumps which are not designed for use with Wavemakers. I feel a wavemaker better simulates current on the reef rather than a laminar flow. Actually, a decent wavemaker can be had for about 38 bucks. The Aquarium Systems Wavemaker is the one I am referring to and the inexpensive MaxiJet pumps work best with this unit. I've been using one myself for about two years with no problems. See here.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Co
de=NATURAL-WAVE&Category_Code=Wavemaking>
Other current comes from my 2 returns in the corners.
Let me know
Thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Chris

New Start Up (Last Chance)/Marine Set Up, reef  2/15/10
Hello guys, <and gals>
I am finally in the position to build my reef (must be a valentines thing)
<Must be a sweetheart of a tank.>
Waiting for just such an occasion, <occasion> I have been stock piling hardware to change my 155 bow from a cichlid tank and as this is my last shot, I am trying to do it perfect.
<Last shot as in drinking or attempt?>
I have secured a larger sump, skimmer, built in refugium.
Picked up a Tunze nanowave and am looking to pick up another controller to assist with the water flow.
<You may find the nanowave is all you may need.>
Calcium reactor is on the side, just waiting to go (yes, I've been planning this for a while).
<I see.>
Substrate is already approx 2.5" of crushed coral.
Lighting is 2 VHO Actinics, with 3 MH
<Sounds good.>
Questions are
1) Can I continue to use my glass lids as this will reduce evaporation and cut some of the noise in the tank.
<Certainly, and will also protect the lamps>
2) I am planning to use a deep sand bed in my refugium portion of my tank...From what I have read, it should consist of approx 6" of sand, some live rock rubble and Chet...<Chat>. Can I use silicon sand as the base or
would additional crush coral be better.
<The later, silica sand is likely to introduce silicates into the system which can lead to excessive diatom and/or nuisance algae growth.>
3) I have been told to remove the bulk of the crushed coral from underneath the rock and have it sit on egg crating...If I do this, I will then have approx 4" of crushed coral in the tank...is there any pro's or cons to this or should I move some of it to the refugium.
<I do not see any long term pros to the use of eggcrate unless the eggcrate itself is supported slightly above the bottom glass which aids in siphoning up detritus during water changes, but going this route also requires no substrate which is a con, as crushed coral/sand is an aid to maintaining dKH/pH.>
4) The tank currently has 2 returns pointing into the middle of the tank... I was considering plumbing them along the back and then along the braces having the returns shoot down at 45s from there... Other than having to cut the power when feeding will there be any benefits or disadvantages to doing this... On the same tangent, with the addition of the 2 Tunze devices, will this be enough movement.
<The Tunze Nano Waveboxes should handle close to a 300 gallon system if set up properly. Have you been here yet?
http://www.tunze.com/149.html?&L=1&C=US&user_tunzeprod_pi1[predid]=-infoxunter016>
5) I have a Little Giant 4mdqx sc running those returns, so am looking at 1225 gph....is this too much? Should I be reducing the output...I'm thinking to restrict the flow going through the refugium, but how about the overall flow?
<The Waveboxes should provide all the water movement you will need in the
tank itself. I would plumb a true union with a ball valve on the output side of the Little Giant which will allow you
to experiment/control additional flow into the tank. You may want to look at our plumbing information
here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm>
Sorry for all the questions, but I want to do this right the first time
<I hear you. James (Salty Dog)>
Chris

Patch Reef Planning/Stocking/Marine Set-Up 2/7/10 Hey WWM crew! <Hey Rachel> I'm in year 4-5 (suffer from sometimers, can't always remember when I start things) <Just wait until you get older and see what happens.> of my planning for a saltwater tank. It's going to be a few more years yet before I can implement things, but was just wanting some input on my ideas to make sure I'm on the right track. Have been reading and researching so much I fear I'm suffering from information overload. Not a bad thing, but hard to keep it all straight some days. There are times I've begun to wonder if I haven't over thought this whole thing. <The extra time researching/planning before diving in will be a plus for you.> I'm planning some odd little version of a Pacific patch reef biotope (I started out planning a FOWLR), or at least as close as I can possibly get. Will be setup in a 40gal breeder, with a planned 50gal sump (run capacity of 34gal with how I have the baffles setup) and a separate 6gal PodFuge to reside on a shelf above and behind the main tank. More on this at the end of my ramblings here. I'm looking into LED lighting setups, and hopefully in another 4-5 years when I'm ready for setup they'll not cost an arm, leg and other various body parts. <I look forward to that as well.> Basically looking for a few areas to save on power consumption, as with 10+ computers running in our house we already use quite a bit right now. <Yikes! I'm developed quite a vocabulary using just one.> Though, I might get the husband more involved with letting me do this if I add a reef computer to the mix (ha ha). <Ah, a computer geek in the household, a valuable asset these days.> My patch reef is going to be rather selective and probably minimal stocking compared to most. I don't want every coral imaginable, nor umpteen million fish, so I've narrowed down my wish list accordingly. I'm down to the "either or" part of livestock planning I guess. Here's my list: 1 Entacmaea quadricolor - haven't sold myself 100 percent just yet on adding one of these. It's my one "impulse" item on the list. <Corals or an anemone, both do not mix well, especially in small quarters.> Very small selection (no more than 4 types I've picked out) of Palythoa, Zoanthus and Clavularia. Some Chlorodesmis (Maiden's Hair) and Red Gracilaria in the main tank as well - maybe. Looking for different colors/textures with what all I'm putting in the tank. Probably getting a little artsy here, but I can't help it. Planning for future addition of Playgyra, <Platygyra> Favites, Dendorphylliidae, <Dendrophylliidae, and some members of this group can be difficult to keep.> Acanthastrea lordhoweensis frags <Pricey.> as well (just one of each and probably not all I have on my list). Would love to add one T. squamosa or H. hippopus to the list, but I'm not sure on adding a clam to the mix with everything else and my planned LED lighting path. Know my coral selection is probably going to be okay, but still iffy on the clam. <These species will require moderate to high light intensity.> Other Inverts: 1 (or two?) Lysmata amboinensis (Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp) 10 Trochus sp. snails 5 Calcinus laevimanus (Dwarf Zebra Hermit - I like crabs, so must avoid the urge to have too many of them) And now for fish: 1 pair Amphiprion perideraion (Pink Skunk) or Amphiprion sandarcinos < sandaracinos> (Orange Skunk) clowns As far as I can tell from my research, these two are the least aggressive of the clownfish. One book I have even says Orange Skunks don't do well in the home aquarium without a host anemone and that they're timid and will be bullied by more boisterous tank mates. <I would ensure plenty of shelter is provided for these clowns, yes, they are rather timid.> Not quite sure I buy the whole "must have anemone" thing, but then I'm no expert either. <This specie may very well do better with an anemone due to their timidness.> 3 Sphaeramia nematoptera (Spotted Cardinal) <If you are going to have an anemone, do not mix non-immune species of fish with the anemone, they will be at risk.> or 5 Apogon cyanosoma (Orange Lined Cardinal) - leaning more towards these guys <I like these, a little smaller than the above cardinals, a better choice for your system.> 1 Nemateleotris magnifica (Firefish Dartfish) or 1 Ptereleotris zebra (Zebra Barred Dartfish) - though I have read these should be kept in small groups??? <Yes, they do better in groups.> For a final fish, I'm stuck on one of the following four. No matter how much I read, I just can't seem to decide which one would be a better addition to the above stocking list. Amblygobius rainfordi (Rainford's Goby) <A beauty and another requiring an abundance of hiding places.> Valenciennea wardii (Tiger Watchman Goby) - really like the look of these. <Will fight with others of the same specie unless a mated pair. I would not recommend these fish for your system/tank size.> Ecsenius stigmatura (Tailspot Blenny) Ecsenius midas (Midas Blenny) <Needs rocks to hide in, eats food out of the water column, so you need to feed it things that will slowly sink in the tank. They need to be fed quite a bit otherwise they'll die of starvation.> Not going to be too many fish is it? 1 pair clowns, 3-5 cardinals, 1 Dartfish and 1 goby or blenny. <Much so if you planned on putting all of these fish in. I'd stick with four or five smaller fish in this size tank. Make up the difference in coral with attractive easy to keep corals.> I can skip the goby/blenny addition and just go with the others. Would rather have less "happy" fish than one too many. Stocking order should probably be cardinals, Dartfish, clowns, goby/blenny? <Sounds good.> My setup/stocking plans are rather long term as well. If all goes according to plan, I'd be looking at 9-10 months minimum from initial start up to cycle and get a maintenance schedule setup. Then I'll start with the BTA if I get one, or the corals first if no anemone, then start adding fish slowly after a few months or the next summer unless I can get from LFS. <Let your tank age at least three months before adding corals. > Shipping livestock to Wyoming in the middle of winter seems crazy even to me - so plenty of time between livestock additions as we wait for winter to pass <Good idea >. Planning for 40-45 lbs live rock setup in little patch islands in the tank instead of one wall-o-rock. Extra rock in the fuge with Chaeto in the sump. Probably go with a shallower sandbed of about two inches or so. Sorry this has ended up so long - didn't mean to ramble on so much. One more thing before I forget though, just to make sure my crazy idea sounds ok. I'm wanting to avoid powerheads in the main display - but I also don't want too many different pumps running. So I planned for a return loop in the style (sort of) of a closed loop - run off a Mag12 pump (or something similar/better? Pump choice still confuses me) placed in the sump. Going with a Glass-Holes overflow with 2 - 1.5" drains rated at 1500gph total - will this all be too much or not enough? <A good flow rate for your system would be around 400-500 gph.> Fuge will be fed either from the return line, or a second smaller pump in the sump. I want as little equipment in the main tank as I can possibly get away with. Just worried that my return loop won't give the tank enough flow with how I've designed it. <I'd consider adding a Sea Swirl to your return line. Will give you flow to all areas of the tank and minimize flow related equipment in the tank. See here. http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Co de=SEASWIRL&Category_Code=Wavemaking> Link to the image I attached in case it doesn't come through with the email. Just a quick planning model I threw together. <Nice to have a geek in the house, isn't it. Well done. I'm guessing it would take me a week of Sundays to accomplish that.> Doesn't have all the plumbing done yet since I changed a few things, but enough to show the general idea. Green box is my skimmer placeholder (wasn't going to model everything down to the smallest detail). There will also be a 20gal QT with a sponge filter I can keep in the sump and just bring out when needed. http://www.realmofsavage.com/Aqua/Images/New40_1.jpg I had better stop before I end up with some multi-page essay here. <Yes, my fingers are stiffening up:-)> Sure I'll be back when I actually get to set this all up. More reading and research for me over the coming years though. May have to write up a guide on how to survive long term tank planning! <All part of the hobby, enjoy.> Thank you all so much! <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Rachel

Re Patch Reef Planning/Stocking/Marine Set-Up 2/8/10 Thank you James! <You're welcome, and in future queries, always respond to the original thread so I can refresh my mind. I can be difficult to remember every queriors content.> I have people telling me I'm too young to forget as much as I do, must be too much time spent zoning out in front of the computer (haha). Sorry for all my typos, I didn't double check as good as I thought with my slightly funky keyboard here. I press a letter but it doesn't always want to cooperate and my brain reads it and says it's okay. Doh! <Is best to type out your query as a Word document where a spelling and grammar check can be done. Then copy/paste to the email and send.> Gives me some more thought on stocking - either an Orange Skunk/Anemone setup, or a polyp garden with Pink Skunks and other fish. As I said I'm more than happy to cut down on what fish and how many knowing a 40gal breeder doesn't leave one with a lot of room. Will need to see what all fish I can get in through my LFS (only have one, and it's a chain store). They have a pair of Orange Skunks in right now that I go drool over about once a week. Poor little guys aren't selling, probably due to "Nemo" popularity (and not the James Mason Nemo unfortunately). A macro algae/anemone tank might look interesting, but then there were all those Zoanthids calling out to me (that list was harder to cull than my fish list). Thanks be to the fish gods I have some time to think about things still. My husband already thinks I'm crazy, what's a few more years muttering about fish and corals? Pretty sure though that I'm going to be cut off at one tank, only reason I'm so back and forth on stocking right now. Could very easily see myself with an office full of reef tanks eating Ramen for the rest of my life. <Alternating/supplementing with Spam will create a much better culinary experience for you.> If I do go the anemone route, what other families of fish should I research for another possible addition? Would this be an okay tank for one of the blennies? Or just stick to my clown pair and call it good with a few other inverts (shrimp, hermits, snails)? <No blennies, but if I were determined to have a couple of other fish in an anemone/clown system, I'd likely go with the Yellowtail Damsel (Chrysiptera parasema) Is one of the better mannered damselfish and will add some color to your tank. I would introduce the clownfish first in this scenario.> I am planning to make sure my pod population is good and stable before introducing any fish to help supplement feedings since I'm at work all day. <A good idea.> Of course, this is probably one of those things that looks good on paper and who knows what will happen when I get my system up and running. <Your refugium plan should provide a good stock of pods. Several etailers do sell pod cultures and is a good way to initially stock the refugium.> On the Sea Swirls - would two placed at opposite sides of the tank be enough? Or do you think just one with a few other stationary outlets on my return loop work fine? Plumbing/flow is the one area I still confuse myself on a great deal. I know it's relatively simple, but I start getting into all the numbers, rates and such, and my brain just runs off to the hills. <I believe one Sea Swirl would do the trick in your tank coupled to a MagDrive 950. There will be a flow drop using the Sea Swirl and with this in mind, a Mag 950 should give you a good flow rate for your 40 gallon breeder.> 3D modeling is one of my other hobbies. <Ah, so you are responsible for the graphics and not hubby.> I've tried to sketch out diagrams on paper, but modeling is just easier for me - not to mention you can look at it from any angle quick and easy. Have been thinking about doing up various aquarium models and props to help people plan out systems as there is free downloadable software for rendering/viewing. If I ever get that up and running (one of those too many projects, not enough time things) I'll be sure to let you all know. <Yes please, and a link to this software may also be useful to our readers.> Kept it shorter this time, since I gave you a bit of a workout with the last email. I tend to ramble on occasion when my brain fills up. <Detailed queries are generally more helpful in providing better answers/suggestions.> Thank you again, <You're welcome, and allow me to provide you with an index to our marine articles/FAQ's. I believe it will aid you in searching. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm James (Salty Dog)> Rachel

Stocking, set-up questions sans searching... reef  – 01/30/10
Hi again,
<Cindy>
Well previously I asked you about the lighting on my hexagon tank. I have decided to start over. I am getting a 90 gallon tank. I want to have fish with some soft corals. I have live rock, sand, tang, Ocellaris, clown goby, two crabs, banded shrimp, and a serpent starfish in my hexagon now.
I want to start out with mushrooms, finger leather, polyps, and love the rose bubble tip anemone.
<... please read re all these species... and a workable approach at their mixing. Here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above>
. I have read that maybe the anemone shouldn't be in there with other stinging mushrooms.
<Close...>
Since I am spending around 3000$ I want to get the best light and set up.
<Invest your time in study ahead>
I like my LFS? ( is this right for local fish store) but they recommend I get the wave point light, total of 216 watts, 2:54watt actinics and 2:54 10000K.
What do you recommend for a new set up...
<That you read>
I would like to have the capability to do more than the starter corals once I get comfortable. It seems once I got the fish, then I wanted live rock and sand and invertebrates, and now I want soft corals...etc... I know with the 90 gallon you should have 270-450 watts. I also know that the corals can go higher up in the tank and some can go lower according to what they need..
But I also know that if I'm doing this I want to do it right and not be disappointed that I didn't know more and buy a different light., protein skimmer, refugium..Please help and recommend what you would do.. Thank you so very much.
Cindy.
<Please learn to/use the search tool and indices on WWM. You can get input
on how to use our resources where you found how to write us. Bob Fenner>

Bio-load and wrasse compatibility   1/11/10
Hello WWM crew!
<Adam>
I have been keeping freshwater aquariums for 10 years. Most recently I've had a 180 gallon planted community tank that I had to take down when I moved and a 50 gallon planted discus tank that remains one of the highlights of my day.
<Nice>
Last year, my partner and I purchased property to build what I can only describe as the house of our dreams and since a salt water aquarium has always been something I dreamed about, I couldn't resist including a fully built in, two sided, wall mounted tank as a focal feature of the main floor to the plans.
<Great!>
If construction stays on schedule we should be in in 9 months. However, I didn't want something that elaborate and expensive to be my first marine aquarium and began collecting the parts to construct a 'practice' tank in the mean time. I've read more than a few books and have logged more hours than I can count researching the hobby online. I regularly use your site as an awesome resource but I'm hoping I can get some specific advice on my current set up.
<Will offer what I can>
Here's the set up:
- 90 gallon main tank
- 750 watts of lighting (2x 250watt metal halide, 250 watts actinic, LED moonlight)
<Mmm, will likely have to run a chiller to keep water temperature constant, reasonable>
- 25 gallon refugium with live sand and 15 pounds of macro algae covered live rock, fed by drilled in overflow
- Coralife 220 superskimmer (finicky and prone to over flow, but effective if attention is paid) hanging on refugium
- Fluval Fx5 on it's own water circuit (not connected to refugium) - some people think canisters are evil I know, this one came from my 180 and it's always worked beautifully for me. Depending on how nitrates track I will probably use something else on the big tank - it's filled with mechanical, bio and phosphate absorbing media
<A fine component here>
- 80 pounds of live rock in the display
- 2.5 inches of aragonite fine grain sand in main display, inoculated with live sand
<I might add an inch or so>
- 600gph after head loss return pump on refugium, about 800 gph flow rate from Fluval
- 2 Vortech MP10s set opposite each other on reef crest mode ( very random, ever changing flow patterns in the tank)
- The tank is grounded with a titanium probe just to be safe
<Mmm, do read on WWM re... these "grounds" are almost always unnecessary... some induce current themselves...>
I don't have an RO system yet so the tank is filled with treated tap water.
Thankfully I live in Calgary, Canada so our drinking water travels about 150km between the glacier it melts off of and my faucet, is naturally very clean and has an outrageously high natural calcium level. There will be an RO system in the next tank.
<Okay>
tank was cycled first with dead sand and cocktail shrimp (a smell I hope to never experience again ever), then cured live rock and live sand was added.
Parameters:
specific gravity: 1.025
NH3+/NH4: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: around 5ppm
Calcium: 540 - 550 ppm (if I'm reading the test right)
<Mmm, magnesium concentration? You want/need this to be about three times [Ca]... I would mix in some RO water to lower the latter>
pH: 8.2
alkalinity: 11.7
phosphate: undetectable on my test
Corals: Still pretty sparse.
The tank is anchored on either side by a branching frog spawn and a gorgeous Australian elegance coral. 3 kinds of Zoanthid frags, 1 stag horn leather, one mushroom leather, 1 Acropora frag (unknown sp.) and one shelf form SPS that I'm still trying to get an ID on. it's green and glows under LED light. I plan on adding more corals very slowly so I can track calcium level changes.
<I would add all that you intend to soon... to reduce allelopathy. We can talk about this later if you'd like>
The tank finished cycling 4 months ago.
in order of addition I have:
1 neon Dottyback
2 cinnamon clowns (a male/female pair I believe)
1 female lineatus wrasse
1 yellow spotted sand sifting goby (though I haven't seen it since it went in)
1 cleaner wrasse
<Labroides? Not likely to live long>
1 medium sized sohal tang (6.5-7 inches).
<This last will likely get too big, perhaps mean here>
The tank isn't big enough for an adult sohal tang, so I only purchased it knowing that it will have a 240 gallon aquarium to move to as it grows.
<Oh!>
The cleaner wrasse is the first time I didn't extensively research a fish on my own before purchase, taking only the LFS attendants word - and as a result my first major error (I hope). Since the damage is done and it comes down to whether it starves here or somewhere else, I'm going to keep it. I've been taking care to chop Mysis shrimp and krill pieces extra small for it and so far it's been eating ravenously twice a day, so we shall see how it goes. I won't buy another one.
<Good>
I also have about 30 blue legged hermit crabs (which the Dottyback has developed an unfortunate taste for), about 25 various sand sifting and algae grazing snails and two peppermint shrimp. I get a few more custodians each time I go to the store. I would very much like to add one more wrasse, though I'm afraid with the big, dirty tang in there I might be approaching my bio load/space limit.
<Look to Labrid/wrasse species found in the same geographic range... Red Sea into the Gulf of Aden>
I'm hoping to acquire another lineatus wrasse, either a male, or another female if mine changes sex (which apparently they can do when kept alone)
<Yes>
before I track one down. I've been able to find lots of info on wrasse compatibility between other species of wrasse and with other fish, but I don't know if conspecifics of different sex will be an acceptable combination in this tank, or if that is too many fish for this tank.
<You have good odds that another medium sized species will go fine here>
I am ok with waiting till they have a bigger home, but lineatus wrasses are so uncommon and are sold so quickly I would be inclined to jump on the right one if it becomes available. I was initially concerned about the lineatus being to peaceful for such an active and typically aggressive tang, but in the 2 weeks since he came out of quarantine the only aggression I've seen from him has been to his own reflection. He was also at the LFS for 6 months before that with many less aggressive tank mates with no problems - I know because I have been admiring him for months. I certainly won't be adding another tang to a tank he's in however.
<Wise>
Any input you have would be greatly appreciated!
Adam
<Read on my friend. Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner> 

Stocking/Setup/Am I Doing This Right?/Help With Coral – 01/03/10
Dear WWM,
<<Hello Heather>>
Thank you in advance for your help/advice/2 cents etc.
<<Is my pleasure to assist>>
I’ve read so much information and misinformation at this point I don’t know what is right and my eyes are starting to cross from the glare of the computer screen, but I seem to find a lot of good advice on your site.
<<Mmm, indeed…though even among the crew there are many differences of opinion. It is up to you weigh the answers and to use your own good judgment to come to a decision>>
I’m hoping someone might be able to answer some questions for me.
<<I’m happy to try…>>
My Setup-
I have a 55g reef. The tank is a SeaClear System 2 with built-in filtration. Right now it’s running with the SeaClear protein skimmer (crap, but better than nothing) that I am replacing in the next couple of days with a CPR Bak Pak 2.
<<Hmm, a likely improvement…but for only a bit more money, I would recommend you have a look at the AquaC Remora>>
I have mesh bags of Purigen and carbon for chemical filtration. I am running 2 Koralia1’s, 1 Koralia Nano and an Aquabal with a rotating Koralia “wavemaker” attached.
<<Very good>>
The Koralias are aimed at the sides and front respectively and the “wavemaker” diagonally across the length. My light is a 24” CF with 1 65w 12000k and 1 65w Actinic (It‘s shorter than the tank because I upgraded from a 30g, but I keep it to one side and the low light corals to the other and it seems to work for them.).
<<Mmm…I would consider this as “low” lighting for this tank…period. If you plan to keep more than some Corallimorphs, Zoanthids, or azooxanthellate species I suggest adding “at least” another Daylight bulb to this mix>>
There is approx. 50lbs of live Fiji rock in the main tank and about 3lbs in the compartment that was designated for the bioballs. I plan on adjusting some things back there so I can have a slow-flow-thru fuge section that will have Chaeto and hopefully lots of copepods. Oh yeah, and there is 50lbs of live sand. Taking into account the dimensions of the tank 36x15x20 and subtracting for acrylic thickness, displacement from rock and sand, and the fact that the tank is narrower in the middle to allow for the built in filtration compartments, I calculated that I’m only working with roughly 30-32 gallons in the main display and 5-6 in the back filter area.
<<Likely so, yes>>
I know there are inches of fish rules
<<Useless, in my opinion… Each fish/fish species must be evaluated against the system/setup>>
but there are 3” long skinny fish and 3” wide fish.
<<And there are some 3” fishes that would do fine in this tank (e.g. - Some Cardinalfishes)…and some 3” fishes that would not (e.g. - Dwarf Angels).
They have widely diverse feeding habits and it’s all making my head spin.
<<Ah but careful research on your part is key…do read here and among the associated links in blue: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reeflvst.htm >>
I would like to know if my tank could comfortably accommodate a Blue Spot Jawfish or a Coral Beauty or both…?
<<A Blue Spot is possible in this size system given suitable tankmates and environmental conditions (e.g. – a suitable substrate for digging)…please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/jawfishe.htm . The tank is a bit too small for the Coral Beauty in my opinion>>
The fish I already have get along great. They’ve turned this one pile of rock into fish condos and they each have their own ‘apartment‘. With the exception of the Mandarin who cruises all over the tank feeding, they don’t really seem to like to go to the darker side of the tank. Is that odd?
<<Not at all…unless a generally nocturnal species, they will tend to gravitate to the brighter side of the tank>>
The current residents are as follows:
Fish-
2 Ocellaris Clowns (Elizabeth & Mr. Darcy) 3” & 2.5”
1 Firefish Goby (Roxie) 3”
1 Lawnmower Blenny (Teddy) 4.5”
1 Mandarin Dragonet (Matilda) currently 1.5”
Inverts-
1 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
1 Emerald Mithrax Crab
<<This crab may prove troublesome to your smaller fishes as it gets large/larger>>
2 Scarlet reef Hermits
4 Blue leg Hermits
1 Electric Blue Hermit
1 Sand Sifting Star
<<Aside from the tank being too small already for this animal, these Echinoderms are extremely efficient at removing “all” the beneficial biota from your sand bed>>
7 Nassarius Snails (4 are .5” babies)
4 Astrea Snails
4 Margarita Snails
Corals-
1 Branching Hammer with 10 heads
1 Chili Coral
1 Sun Coral cluster
1 Dendrophyllia with 5 various sized heads
1 Rhizotrochus
2 Scleronepthea
1 small field of Daisy Polyps
<<Wow…a low-light and/or azooxanthellate mix for sure…I do hope you are direct-feeding>>
My next question is concerning my Branching Hammer (which I‘ve had for about 6 months). Over the past two weeks I noticed the polyps on 2 of the heads receding so that the mouth in the center was visible. Prior to this I didn’t even realize it had one because it was always so full you could barely see the branches. I searched the web high and low to figure out what was going on and read that they need supplemental feeding and can’t rely on zooxanthellae alone.
<<Mmm, yes…though most do well with only incidental/light feeding given adequate lighting, in my experience…but can be fed small/diced bits of meaty foods>>
I did not know this so I figured it to be the problem.
<<Maybe…or possibly environmental (e.g. – water quality, pestered by fishes, etc.)>>
I squirted some Mysis and Cyclops on them and all of the heads shriveled. They haven’t opened back up since (this was 3 days ago). They’ve been ejecting brown stringy stuff from their mouths. I haven’t introduced anything new to the tank in at least 3 months. The light bulbs are 5 months old and the coral heads are between 6 and 8 inches from them. I have no idea how to proceed. Any advice?
<<Hmm...hard to say, but this could be the expelling of zooxanthellae…and not a good sign if so. Naught to do but wait for the moment and see how this coral responds…but do check and correct your water params as/if needed>>
Lastly, my pH is at a steady 7.8 and I can’t seem to get it to raise up.
<<Have you tested your saltwater mix? Perhaps buffering is needed (I recommend Seachem products for this)>>
My other test results are as follows and hold pretty steady. How do I get the pH up and the KH down a bit? I do a weekly 5g water change.
KH - 15 = 268.5ppm
<<Hmm…perhaps you need to “test” the test kit>>
Calcium - 440
Phosphate - 0 to trace
Nitrate - 10-20
<<This “may” be what is troubling your Hammer Coral after 6-months. I would strive to keep this below 10ppm>>
Nitrite - 0
Ammonia – 0
<<Do test the parameters of your freshly mixed saltwater batches (aerate for 24hrs or more first to allow all chemical reactions and gas exchange time to stabilize/complete…you should also be doing this before each water change). And with the corals you have and the resultant heavy feeding required I suggest you increase the water change volume to 20g, but done every other week. Give this a try and then check your water parameters for any change/improvement and make adjustments as necessary>>
Thank you so much for your time and expertise! I know this was a long one.
<<No worries Heather…happy to share>>
Sincerely,
Heather in CA
<<Cheers… EricR in (chilly!) SC>> 

450 reef display, set up, stkg.    11/17/09
Greetings WWM Crew,
<Hey Jim! JustinN here!>
I'm setting up a 450 gallon reef display (6' x 4' x 32") and had a few questions:
<Quite the display! Lets see what we can help with..>
Do you think a 100 gallon sump is large enough ? It is actually a Eco-System brand but, I wasn't intending of using Miracle Mud. Unless you recommend otherwise ? I was thinking of using a extra 40 gallon tank as a gravity fed refugium. Do you think a 4-8" deep sand bed will be enough to denitrify the 450 display ? or should I get a larger tank for the refugium ?
<100 Gallon sump + 40 gallon refugium sounds about right -- am I to assume that you are going to be utilizing both refugiums for their algal scrubbing abilities? I would forego the Miracle Mud as well -- oolitic grade sand is cheaper, and does just as well (if not better) for denitrifying purposes in a DSB.>
For circulation, I was thinking of going with 4 Vortechs on the back wall and Tunze wave box and streams in the rock work.
<Seems somewhat excessive -- have you looked into closed loop configurations? This may achieve your desired goals with less investment/power usage/over-time maintenance:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbh2oret.htm Otherwise, this configuration would work, just seems like a lot of work to repair in the case of need..>
I will most likely be using 2 Reeflo dart golds for the returns going into two separate manifolds w/penductor outlets. The goals is 30-50x turnover.
<Mmm, I would aim for a lower turnover through the sump and refugium tanks -- the longer the water contact here, the more filtration that will occur.
Closed loop configurations benefit this by allowing the flow you're seeking, while still allowing a slower draw through the sump.>
The rock layout will be similar to Steve Weast's tank in Ultimate Marine Aquariums (2 separate islands with caves, overhangs, & a canyon down the middle). I will be using roughly 400# of Key Largo rock from Marcos Rock. It will be a primarily sps and a few LPSs to give some "motion" in the tank.
<Sounds nice.>
I want to go the Steven Pro route and go fishless for 6 months. I want to give the refugium a chance to build up the pods, mysis shrimp, etc. population.
<A good plan, always wise.>
I'm also a fish guy and would love to have a good mix of fish. A school of various anthias is on the desire list(any recommendations ?).
<Any of the commonly available anthias would do just fine in this setting  -- get a good sized harem would be my suggestion (5 or more total specimen)>
I also would like various wrasses (mystery, solar, Scott's, etc.) and tangs (chevron, purple, Kole, etc.). I don't want any large fish with maybe the exception of blue cheek angel and blue throat trigger (I know they aren't always reef safe).
<At least in the case of the Blue Throat, they are some of the more timid/acceptable in a reef setting.>
Could I mix various pygmy angels together (flame, potter's, & my favorite Japanese) ?
<Mmm -- yes and no -- the Centropyge angels will likely 'mix' (in that they'll co-habitate -- in a setting this big, they'd likely never/rarely come in contact with each other) -- the 'no' portion comes from the Centropyge interruptus -- this fish is exceedingly rare, historically fares very poorly in aquaria, and is actually of a colder water species than most our reef specimen we keep... Won't comfortably live in a reef temperature tank for long. Reef Culture Technologies has managed to succeed in breeding of many Centropyge angels, one of which is the interruptus -- as time goes on, the possibilities of adding this stunning fish to your tank will increase, but as of now, its not a high likelihood, unfortunately.>
Any advice you could impart would be appreciated,
Jim
<Glad to help! -JustinN>

New Tank Set Up, reef  -- 11/17/2009
Hello Crew!
<Hey Steve! JustinN here!>
Thanks for having such a wonderful site!
<We're glad to provide.>
I have a couple of questions/concerns on the new tank I just set up this past weekend. I had a DAS 75 gallon tank w/ the old H39 filter that had the air stone skimmer and spools. I have since transferred all the contents of that tank to a new 90 gallon aquarium.
<Ok>
Here's a list of all that was moved. 60lbs of live sand, 100lbs of live rock, Finger Leather, 2 open Brains, Mushroom rock, Red Flowerpot Coral (has spread 1-1/2" in 4 months!)
<Mmm, is not typical of Goniopora sp. -- usually don't fare well in aquaria.. Do keep an eye.>
Zoanthid rock, Xenia, Clove Polyps, Green Star Polyps, Frogspawn, 3" Yellow Tang, 3" Blue Throat Trigger, 2" Tomato Clown, 3 - 1" Green Chromis, 3" Bicolor Blenny, Long Tentacle Anemone, Cleaner Shrimp, and misc. snails and crabs.
<Sounds nice>
My new set up is a 90 gallon (48x18x24) aquarium w/ dual overflows, Current 6x54 watt T5 light, 20 gallon tank underneath that houses a DAS BX-2 skimmer, and a Mag Drive 7 return pump (very very loud, suggestions on new return pump will be appreciated).
<Perhaps the problem isn't the pump itself -- many have used items such as spare computer mouse pads or other such inert rubber materials to 'pad' the underside of the pump -- largely silences the vibration action. I am somewhat partial to Eheim pumps myself.>
My question is, is this enough filtration for my tank?
<Sounds about right -- perhaps adding a refugium area to your sump, if you have the space -- just a light and a ball of Chaetomorpha algae.>
There's nothing but live rock in the main tank and a huge skimmer underneath. I do a 15 gallon water change every week and all of my levels are great (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 5ppm nitrate). I just want to make sure this tank wont crash on me in a few weeks.
<I see no reason why it would.>
I would also like to add some SPS in the future and wanted to know if the light and filtration I have will support them.
<Lighting MAY be a bit inadequate for some of the more advanced SPS species -- as much great light as T5's put out, they definitely don't have the same overall intensity as Halides. Perhaps a single Halide pendant, down the line, used in addition to your T5 lighting, could round out your lighting needs (and provide a central spot for your SPS colonies to grow).>
Thanks in advance for your help! You guys are the best of the best!
Steve
<Glad to help! -JustinN>

Would LOVE Your Opinion On My 225 Gal Reef... (Hee-hee...Opinions are what we do best!) – 09/24/09
Greetings everyone at WWM!
<<Howdy Jamie…Eric here>>
Wishing that all is well with you.
<<Okay for a Thursday, thanks [grin]>>
I apologize in advance for the multitude of questions I pose.
<<No worries>>
I've finally got to the stage of "setting up" my 225 gallon reef tank and I'm really excited to see what you think about it.
<<Neat!>>
As I've done much studying on your WONDERFUL site, I've planned this according to the future inhabitants
<<Excellent>>
- Reef system with live rock/sand, mainly soft corals, some SPS (maybe), peaceful type fishes. Here is a "thinking list" of creatures with associated questions:
<<Okay>>
Kole Yellow Eye Tangs - will they be more territorial if I get a "pair" or will they enjoy their lives better?
<<A pair “might” work out, but this tank is still a bit small for such in my opinion…is a gamble>>
McCosker's Flasher Wrasse - 1 male and 3 females OR Red Fin Flasher Wrasse in the same combination?
<<Beautiful fishes, but they do suffer when kept with other “boisterous” fishes…better kept when the system is designed around “them”>>
Blue/green reef chromis - school of 5 or more?
<<7 to 9 if you wish…but…I think a better choice for a “schooling” fish would be a small Cardinalfish species. There are several choices among the more “social” species. A couple options might be the Pajama Cardinalfish (Sphaeramia nematoptera), or the Longspine Cardinalfish (Apogon leptacanthus). Aside from the fact that I find the Cardinalfishes more interesting than the Chromis species mentioned, if careful about species selection it my experience that losses from conspecifics aggression are a mute point…unlike the so-called “peaceful” Chromis species>>
Yellow Longnose butterfly fish - again, I'm wondering if having a pair would make them more territorial?
<<Another gamble I think… Dr. Ellen Thayer is of the opinion that just about any marine species available to the hobby can be kept in pairs…given the right conditions/environment. Unfortunately that often equates to just sheer volume and the size of the system. For these “roaming” fishes, 12sqft just does not “equate” most of the time>>
Midas blenny vs. Linear blenny vs. starry blenny - which one do you think will do better in this system?
<<I don’t think it matters much, but any of these may prove to be trouble for the Gobies and/or Dragonettes you have planned>>
Goby and pistol shrimp pair - their behaviour is so interesting that I can't go without a pair,
<<Do try to acquire as such>>
BUT is this system so big that they will disappear?
<<Maybe…but then I have seen this happen in tanks as small as 20g. Despite our wishes, animals don’t always take up stage “front and center” for our viewing pleasure>>
Pair of skunk cleaner shrimps, crabs, hermits...
<<Mmm, I’m not a fan of the Crabs/Hermits… Too opportunistic for my tastes…though I do think I’m in the minority in the hobby re>>
Here is a list of I would like "with caution", and in need of your thoughts, again.
<<Okey-dokey>>
Mandarin goby - I would wait for a long time to get them because I've learned that my system has to be teaming with copepods for them to be successful,
<<And best supplemented “continuously” via an inline plankton producing refugium>>
but I was wondering if they would not do well because of the other more "aggressive" feeders that I've got above.
<<This is a valid concern. These slow moving feeders (ever watch how they carefully scrutinize everything?) are easily outcompeted for available natural foods>>
Blue throat trigger - I've heard and read some success there?
<<I kept a male/female pair in my own SPS dominated 375g reef display>>
Are they worth the risk though?
<<Not the flashiest, but an interesting and intelligent fish…and quite docile as Triggers go…in my experience. A single specimen would likely be a fine choice for your system>
Dimensions on this tank is 72"L 24"W 30"H. It will have a Lifereef LF1 Berlin Filter Systems, the LifeReefugium, and the Lifereef protein skimmer.
<<I see>>
For wave action, I'll be installing two gen2 Vortech propeller pumps Mp40w –
<<Nice>>
I'm not sure where to really put them as the choices are on the back wall of the tank versus the "left" wall so I don't have to look at them, but I'm not sure if that will be enough flow for this size tank.
<<Mmm, unfortunately it is not always possible to hide such (I have four big ole’ Tunze pumps in my display)…best to place them on opposing walls. As for whether they are “enough”…time will tell>>
The lighting system I'm planning on is the Hamilton Technology Belize Sun 6ft 250 W HQI 10K + 4x96W CF with LED.
<<Nice units>>
I like the more "natural" or in my mind "snorkeling" type look so I think the 10K is the one that is less blue.
<<The higher the Kelvin Temperature the more “blue” in the bulb>>
I did have a canopy but after trying to figure a good way to cool the lighting system I thought it would be easier to just go without it.
<<Indeed this is so>>
I'm thinking of using egg crate so that my fishes don't jump out to become fish jerkies.
<<Though any fish can jump from your aquarium, the Flasher Wrasses are the only real threat re among your proposed selections…and just so you know, they “can jump through” the ½” grid of the eggcrate…especially when “pursued”>>
I do wonder about salt creep if that water is exposed like that - what do you think?
<<I prefer an “open” system myself… Any salt creep is minimal (as long as you don’t have a lot of “bubbles”)…>>
I still can go back to the canopy with a retro fit kit of the same caliber but I have to raise it to be at least 12 or 14 inches so that I won't melt the top of my tank.
<<Personally, I wouldn’t bother with the canopy>>
I am planning on at least 4 -5 inches of live sand. The rockscape will be extensive with lots of caves and niches covering most of the back wall with maybe a few small islands near the front of the tank.
<<Do be sure not to overdue/to leave plenty of swimming room for the fishes and growing room for the corals>>
I'm so excited to be sharing this plan with you as it has taken me months of planning to settle down on this.
<<I’m happy to conspire with you>>
I look forward to reading your thoughts and suggestions for adjustments and changes so please feel free to share your thoughts.
<<No problem…have done so>>
I can modify most things with the exception of the tank and Lifereef filtration system as I've already placed an order and Jeff is building it as we speak.
<<Ahh…anticipation!>>
Thanks again for making this site available for fish lovers everywhere and thanks for taking the time.
Jamie Barclay
<<It is a collective effort…happy to share. Eric Russell>>

46 gal. Bowfront Upgrade to Reef 6/22/09
Hey Crew,
< Evening >
I have been doing a lot of reading on your site lately because I am getting ready to upgrade my 46 gallon bowfront setup to a reef.
< Excellent start. Reading and research go along way towards a healthy aquarium. >
I don't have any livestock in the tank right now because of a terrible outage we had recently. This is the first time we have been out for more than an hour in over ten years so I don't think I need to worry about that again anytime soon. But anyway back to the aquarium. I have about 65 pounds of live rock sitting on top of about a 3 inch crushed coral sand bed.
< Crushed coral can be a waste trap. You may want to consider adding a couple of inches of sand before it becomes a problem.>
I have 3 powerheads on a wavemaker that total 480 gph. Is this sufficient?
< 10 Xs turnover is a minimum. I prefer about 20 to 25 Xs. >
I am thinking about getting a couple new powerheads if I need them.
< I would add at least one more or swap one for a larger powerhead. >
As for filtration I have a remora skimmer that does an awesome job and I also have an emperor 400 HOB filter for chemical filtration. I considered upgrading that to a canister filter, but I would rather use the money for better lighting.
< Save it for lighting. Canister filters can become nitrate factories unless properly maintained. >
I am looking at a power compact fixture with a total of 192 watts. Would this be enough to keep LPS or even SPS corals? Maybe an anemone down the road?
< You could keep LPS under the PC with proper placement. Not enough for SPS or anemones. I would save my money and look into a T5 fixture with individual reflectors. Much more efficient lighting. >
If not could I just put another fixture next to it to add another 96 watts? I have enough room above the tank for that but I just didn't know if it would work. The fish I would like to keep include 2 ocellaris clowns, a midas blenny, a Kaudern's cardinal, a purple Pseudochromis, and a bicolor angelfish or a coral beauty -- I haven't decided yet. Thanks for taking the time to help me out.
< Fish stocking list looks ok. The Midas blenny could become aggressive with age and dwarf angels can be coral nippers.
GA Jenkins>
-Aaron

Expanding reef tank
Tank Upgrade, Moving on Up  6/18/2009
Hi,
< Hello!>
I have a 29 gallon reef tank with 4" sand bed, 50 lbs of live rock, Candycane, torch, and various mushroom corals. This tank has been running pretty well ( for about 3 yrs) and without error except for a population
of aiptasia .Which I cant seem to get rid of..
< Even the most diligent of reefers has fought the aiptasia battle. >
I have recently acquired a 55gal Truvu which I want to switch over to.
< I love upgrades!>
I am very nervous about taking the sand out and moving it over there
< I would be too. >
and if I should buy someone's live sand and rock from a similar and well running tank to add to mine or should I just but some aragonite and let my sand bed seed that ? and when I move my sand won't
all the detritus being stirred up stress out my corals ? I already have the full setup and same lighting watts per gallon my 29 has. Thank you for reading this.
< I went through the same thing about 2 years ago. After much consideration my process was as follows::
1) New sand. I bought enough sand for the new setup and used a cup of my tanks to seed it.
2) I added just a few pieces of "live" rock
3) I waited a few weeks for any cycle and to let the bacteria population multiply.
4) A week before the move I did a water change in both tanks.
5) The day of the move I moved everything over. Water, corals, rock and fish.
I used buckets and enough of the old tanks water to cover corals. I then pumped the remaining water into the new tank.
Next I began dripping the fish. Then I added the water from the buckets and the corals. The fish where added when the drip was done. It took me a bit but I had no loss of life and after a few weeks I began to slowly add more live rock to fill in a bit. I hope this helps GA Jenkins >
Adam

Tank Set Up, Return Pump and more 6/15/09
Hello Crew,
<Hello Henk.>
I am setting up a new tank, and am having it made according to following dimensions:
47.2*27.6*27.6 (120cm*70cm*70cm), about 150 gallon.
I chose for these dimensions because I will have a 10cm (4 inch) wooden trim at the bottom of the display tank, and a trim of about 5cm (2inch) on the top.
The bottom trim is meant to cover most part of the Deep Sand Bed in the display tank.
There will be an internal overflow box in the center at the back of the tank, with two standpipes of 2 inches.
The sump will be divided into 4 parts, with one part where the water enters, second compartment with skimmer and Ca reactor, third part actual sump with the return pump, and a fourth part will be a refugium with DSB and macro algae. The refugium will be fed with water directly coming from the display tank, with a means to control the water flow. Water from this refugium will then flow over into the part where the return pump is located.
<Just do be sure to run this restriction off of a T, allowing anything that is restricted by the valve to still continue on from the overflow line to other parts of the sump.>
I am planning to start out with some of the easier LPS, but would like over time to focus on SPS.
Now, for my questions... Regarding the return pump, I read on your site the determining factor for the size of the pump is the flow the overflow can handle, and I have not been able to find how much flow two 2 inch standpipes will be able to handle safely (and preferably without too much noise)?
<A single 2" internal diameter line will handle 1350 gph or so without issues....this does assume there are no horizontal runs in the overflow plumbing.>
Here in Beijing, the German Messner pond pumps are quite popular with reef keepers (seems to be the most widely used import return pump here), but I have not really been able to find any information on European or American message boards or websites regarding the use of these pumps in marine settings, so I am wondering whether or not these pumps are a good choice. I am not sure if you have heard of people using these pumps as return pumps?
<I have never used one, but these are submersible pumps, therefore no "saltwater seal" needed. You will be fine with one of these.>
As for the return into the display tank, I have the option for choosing either 2 or 4 returns, is 4 always better than 2?
<Not always, it can be too large/too many, diffuse flow too much.>
I plan to supplement circulation with 2 Tunze 6105 stream pumps and a multicontroller.
<Nice!>
I am just wondering if I choose 4 returns all located at the back of the tank, won't I have too much laminar flow, compared to when I would choose two returns pointed towards the sides of the tank, where the Tunze pumps will be located?
<Oh, no, just place them in the back. You can use PVC 45 deg elbows or a product called LocLine to direct the flow from each output.>
I am currently considering a return pump of about 2100gph. I assume there won't be much loss, the return pump only would need to pump about 5 feet up in a straight line, before either being divided over 2 or 4 returns.
<The loss is surprising, I would go with four 1/2" or two 3/4" returns for the flow you will end up with.>
Would you advise more flow through the sump, since the overflow might be able to handle more?
<No, this is plenty. Other issues arise, such as noise and micro bubble problems with too much flow through the sump.>
Finally, as to the lighting, if I want to keep my options open to have clams and grow SPS in the tank and not only at the top third of the tank.
Will two 150W metal halides suffice for a tank with this depth, or should I go for the 250W lights?
<250s if you want to be able to set stuff wherever you want.>
I have been reading and learning plenty from your website, and I hope I could run the above questions by you, since it is my first marine tank and people here in Beijing seem to implement a method of reefkeeping quite different from what is advocated on your website (usually with non-flood safe overflows, apparently no DSB tanks here at all, and heavy in-sump mechanical filtering with filter padding).
<Heee, too many people here too!>
Henk Naert
<Scott V.>

Dream Reef Follow Up – 06/13/09
Hi again!
<<Hello Mike>>
I e-mailed you a while back with the plans for my 120x54x34h dream aquarium
<<Ah, very nice! Some 950 gallons…>>
(the subject was "My Dream Reef Aquarium").
<<Hmm…I’m not finding it>>
I thought that you might like to know the changes I have made to the list re lighting, current, and skimming.
<<Great!>>
I would appreciate any input.
<<Certainly>>
After really looking into it, I did decide to use four 400w MHs instead of the ten VHO fluorescents.
<<A much better choice in “my” opinion… Better penetration, aesthetics, bang for the buck…though I do think you could have gotten by with 250w lamps and a good reflector (e.g. – Lumenmax/Lumen Bright)>>
While the VHOs would work,
<<Mmm…depending, here>>
it would mean putting all of the more light-demanding corals in the top 1/3 of the tank.
<<Likely, yes>>
This is not really something that I would like to do. I forgot to mention that in the last e-mail. I added two more of the Rio Polarios,
<<I find these interesting units…but wonder if they justify their cost. If you are of a mind, do let us know your thoughts/observations of these units after you’ve had them for a bit>>
so now there is a turnover of a little over 23 times per hour.
<<Good>>
I also decided on an ASM G-5 instead of the G-4X to go along with the Marineland Pro 300.
<<Wise… And though I think the ASM unit to be a much better piece of gear than the Pro…for what you have invested here I’m surprised you didn’t just opt for an appropriately sized quality skimmer from the start (e.g. – Euro-Reef, H&S, Bubble King, etc.)>>
On another note, what are your thoughts on polycarbonate as a building material for an aquarium?
<<I don’t think I have ever seen it used; and maybe there’s a reason for that? Maybe it’s not “stiff” enough at the thicknesses commonly used in acrylic aquarium building…maybe it discolors over time…or maybe it’s just the difference in price (acrylic appears to be about 30% - 40% cheaper)…admittedly, all speculation on my part. Perhaps this is a question better put to someone who builds such tanks for a living, maybe you could try sending this question to Tenecor and see what they have to say about it>>
I have looked into it a bit and have found some very mixed opinions as well as mixed information.
<<I don’t think I’m am going to clear this up for you either [grin]>>
And on another, what would be a reasonable estimate of the weight of this system once fully set up?
<<Figure 10lbs per gallon (don’t forget to include sumps/refugiums), and then add another 10% just for safety sake if/when figuring load capacity/reinforcement needs of the floor where this system will reside>>
Thanks!
-Mike-
<<Happy to share… EricR>>

Re: Bulkhead depression - final follow-up 2/1/09
Hi guys/gals..
<Hello.>
Hope you are about to enjoy the super bowl right about now. Thought I'd answer back to your ?'s to my ?'s.
<Sure.>
I'll summarize for you:
Re: Durso fluctuating
<<Do you have any slurping or flushing sounds?>>
Yes, but I've continued to research on your site and have come across the air tube method down the air hole. So I'll give that a shot when I get a chance. I've got the fluctuations stable now with just a slightly bigger
hole.
<This will remedy your issue so long as you are not flowing too much relative to the size of the bulkhead.>
The humming sound I was hearing was the flex PVC pipe coming through my wall - from the sump on the other side, and then into the back of the stand. Turns out it was just touching the hole I made in the stand for the return line to come in. So I simply drilled it a little bigger and it cut the hum in half!
<Great!>
Re: Fuge lighting
I've been reading on your site about the LOA fuge light (65w) so I picked it up at Home Depot today. I'll have to figure out how to wire it up as it doesn't come with a cord :(. Can I place this directly on top of my acrylic fuge cover or is that too risky?
<You can so long as it is supported as such you are confident it will not fall in! As for wiring the thing, a cheapo pigtail available at the same Home Depot will do. If you look through the electrical PVC goodies you will also find a 1/2" female threaded waterproof PVC fitting that will seal the cord where it enters the light.>
BTW, my fuge water level is only about 5 1/2" high in a 14" X 12" X 16" square not a lot of water. Knowing the low water level, how should I set this up? 1/2 sand bed with algae? I do have a full 3.5 - 4" DSB in the main tank (65 gal tall).
<That would be fine.>
Re: Skimmer - Vertex IN80
I've read on WWM the head height should be about 1" below the junction where the collection cup goes in (I think it was a EuroReef reference, which looks very similar to the Vertex). Can you verify? I realize it's not an exact science, just trying to get a ball park since I'm new at this.
<That is the ball park, yes, a good place to start.>
Re: Some other banter..
I probably don't have enough life in there to really get things going. I only have a few pieces of donated rock rubble and one bucket worth of old water from a neighbor's water change. I still need to buy my main light for main tank as well so I'm not in a rush. Will add some more rock this week and start to ramp it up slowly.
<Sounds good.>
Thanks in advance!
:)
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>

New Marine Tank Setup (Proceeding Slowly) – 01/30/09
Hello,
<<Hey Mel>>
Your web site has been a great source of information during my investigation into keeping a reef tank...
<<Ah, excellent>>
Now I think I need a bit of reassurance (or not!) that I am on the right track in converting my freshwater cichlid setup into a marine setup.
<<Okay…how can I help?>>
This has so far taken me about two years of research and financial saving after I got interested in the Astrocoeniidae family...
<<Wow…good for you. Most folks tend to “rush right in” and then pay the price for doing so later>>
My tank is 180cm x 42cm x 60cm (approx. 130 gallons)
<<Hmm, if my conversion and calculation is correct…this tank is closer to 180 gallons U.S.>>
which is NOT drilled in order to accommodate a sump.
<<I see… Perhaps you could utilize a pair (for redundancy) of siphon overflows for this>>
I already have a six foot metal halide lighting system which includes three 400W 20000K metal halides and four 4ft T5 actinics.
<<Okay>>
I also have a sand bed with a plenum underneath and will be purchasing live rock to fill about one third of the display. I am thinking about purchasing a Tunze Wavebox and Tunze Reefpack (500L).
<<Great gear... I am a big fan of Tunze’s product line…I use several models of their Stream pumps, and the Osmolator 3155 on my own system>>
I am leaning towards buying the Tunze Wavebox and Reefpack instead of the Aqua C Remora Pro, four Tunze Turbelle Stream 6065's and a couple of Eheim classic 2217 canister filters (Yes, yes, I know canister filters are not the greatest option but I already have them and will clean them out once a week religiously!!). I am interested in keeping members of Acropora and Montipora in this setup - what would be an easy-to-keep coral species to start off with that won't upset these later on keeping in mind a reasonably maintainable six inch zone of clearance between colonies?
<<I have found Montipora digitata (particularly the bright green variety) to be quite easy to maintain and would consider this a good species for a novice such as you. When you decide to move forward with other genera/species, consider obtaining aquacultured specimens (frags from other hobbyists are a great source) as these are generally hardier and easier to keep than wild collected corals>>
I am aware that I will need to master the art of keeping my water parameters at specific levels consistently and so will begin with livestock very slowly.
<<Ah yes… Do consider letting the system run empty (but go ahead and add the live rock) with the lights and filtration operating (put the lights on a timer/s to replicate about a 12-hour lighting cycle) for several months or longer before you begin stocking. This will do much for establishing sustainable colonies of beneficial micro- and macro-fauna in the absence of predatory fish/inverts, as well as give your system some time to find its “balance” re its water chemistry>>
The fish species I am interested in include Anthias, Chromis, Pseudochromis fridmani, Amphiprion percula (no anemone), Paracanthurus hepatus and Gobiodon citrinus.
<<I don’t recommend G. citrinus (or similar species of the genus) for new “SPS” tanks. These fish can overly stress young/small Acropora frags/colonies to the point of demise with their branch-hopping and polyp-picking behaviors>>
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
<<I hope I have given you some food for thought>>
Thank you,
Mel
<<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>

Re: Marine System, reef set-up  11/20/08
Hello Scott (and Crew of course)!
<Hello Michael....I feel like watching Night Rider now for some reason.>
Thank you so much for your much needed advice... YET AGAIN =)
So it seem as though most of my freshwater equipment can be thrown out the window... a pity but on the flip side, it is truly a relief to get a feel for where I should be heading with my tank! Thank you for that guidance once again!
<Very welcome.>
(Truly frustrating over here in Hong Kong due to language barriers, my LFS owner is absolutely amazing when it comes to picking out good specimen but we hit a wall when we try and discuss anything more complex).
<Even without language issues many LFS here in the states sadly fall into the same category.>
Scott, do you think the below setup will be adequate for a reef setup?
Equipment
1) 75 Gallon Tank
2) Euro Reef or AquaC Skimmer
3) 3 Tunze Turbelle Pumps (combined water flow of approximately 11,000
LPH)
4) One Air Pump
5) One Chiller
6) Two Heating Tubes
7) One Metal Halide Light (150W)
1) Aragonite Substrate (1 Inch)
2) 50 pounds live rock, more to come gradually
<Sounds fine, but do just keep the air pump around for a back up. With the Tunzes/skimmer you will have plenty of gas exchange. Air pumps in marine tanks can just be a pain with bubbles in the display.>
Thank you once again for all of your amazing advice and do take good care!
Michael
<Welcome again, do enjoy the new setup. Scott V.>

Re: Marine System 11/26/08
Hello Scott! (And Crew!)
<Michael!>
Thank you once again for your much need guidance! =)
<Very welcome.>
I apologize for my belated response, my beloved (???) company sent me away again... I get this uncanny feeling that they are sapping me of every last ounce of energy before sacking me heehee! What a wonderful industry I work in =P <!!>
Night Rider!!! Who can ever resist... I watch the US channels here in HK and they always have the super old reruns of all those shows I grew up on, brings back good memories... Boy am I getting old hehehe
<Ah, and there is a new Night Rider too!>
Anywhoo~ I followed your advice and ridded myself of all the old F/W equipment (mainly canisters) and am now contently watching my fish FIGHT (struggle rather) against the output from the 3 Tunze NanoStreams! Thank you for enlightening me, I sincerely do appreciate it! (All occupants survived the changes!)
<It is quite shocking how much flow these fish can handle.>
Just a quick update on the ongoings in my little saltwater world... I am not sure if you recall but I had a small 17 gallon tank which I used to de-chlorinize/mix my salt (bought a plastic tub to do this in instead)... this tank had now been "converted" to a small saltwater tank which will house live rock only... with the hopes that I will be able to breed food stuff for my main tank (micro inverts... hopefully)!
Setup:
1) 17.24 gallon tank
2) 1100 LPH canister filter for expanded water capacity (will be removed once I purchase a better skimmer)
3) Nano Skimmer from a company called Dymax with 200 liter capacity (absolutely HATE their products but I had no other option... if you have  an opinion on this brand would love to hear your thoughts!)
4) T5 Light Fixture with deep blue T5 bulbs (8W *2)
5) One small wave maker (Chinese Brand, very low flow, will be upgraded to a Tunze Nanostream once stock is available)
6) 100W heating tube
7) high speed fan to help with the heat in the summer months
8) 2 inch substrate (aragonite)
9) No live rock yet but will add in soon
So that is it for me I guess =)
Oh Scott, I did get a chance to "contribute" a little bit... not much by any means but a start none the less! =)
<Thank you very much.>
Lastly, thank you in kind for all of your great advice. I understand that with this structured community and the wonderful web as your platform, responding to avid hobbyists/fanatics must seem like a walk in the woods.
<Sometimes, but rarely!>
However, for people like me, sites like yours are invaluable. Just your insight on my questions alone have saved me priceless hours of reading and researching. Not to say that reading and researching is bad but this is an alternative means for people without the time or resources to approach an absolutely amazing hobby without having to shy away due to personal constraints/limitations!
Thank you once again Scott!
<Thank you Michael for the encouraging email!>
Most sincerely,
Michael
<Talks soon, Scott V.>

R2: Plans For New 340 Gallon Tank – 11/30/08
Eric,
<<Hi Adam>>
You mentioned you had a similar 300 gallon setup...
<<375 actually…96x30x30>>
How did you do your stand?
<<I built it myself in place (my system is within a wall)…and then had it verified as adequate by a structural engineer (along with the under-floor reinforcements)>>
Material?
<<Wood>>
The guy who is building my tank suggested I just go with a wood stand, as it is what he uses for all of his tanks in the store and everything that he does for customers.
<<Will work fine, with proper engineering/consideration>>
I am worried about the longevity of the stand.
<<Mine has been in use for five years…no visible deterioration>>>>
I don't want the thing to come tumbling down in 10 years.
<<Indeed>>
I looked at these plans for a 300 gallon 8' x 30" tank, but they don't seem sufficient for something just shy of 2 tons!
http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/member-tank-projects/5534-steveks-300-gallon-reef-tank-build.html
<<It does look a bit “anemic” for the task…but then I always tend to over-engineer my projects>>
I thought about using 2" X 6” s instead of 2 x 4 s and 1 x's?
<<Mine is built with 2x6 and 2x4 material. The vertical supports are spaced in the front similar to those in the link; accept they are doubled 2x6s support a “triple 2x6 beam.” The rear vertical supports are doubled 2x4s on 16” centers supporting a “double 2x6 beam.” The ends are enclosed with doubled 2x6s, and the interior of the field is supported with doubled 2x4s hung with galvanized joist-hangers. All laminations (doubled and tripled boards) are “glued and screwed” for rigidity with polyurethane glue and treated deck screws. The top of the stand is covered with a layer of ¾” exterior plywood, screwed to the deck…and a layer of 6mil plastic (runs up the sides of the wall interior about 1.5”) under ¾” plywood was also placed under the stand before construction began>>
I've also considered concrete block with a metal frame on top to support the tank?
<<Have heard of similar…but prefer my wood-built stand. Have also seen all-steel welded and powder-coated stands…nice, if you can afford it>>
Also if wood is to be the material of choice, treated or untreated?
<<I used untreated because of fears of contamination due to the close proximity of the 75g sump and 55g refugium under the tank. In retrospect I don’t think this is much of a concern…and although I don’t see any issues with the untreated stand, if I were to do it over I would use treated lumber just for the peace of mind/possible longevity re moisture concerns>>
I have 3 more weeks to get a stand completed... tying to get plans set and commence... ;) I'm getting excited!
Adam
<<Do let me know if you have any further questions. Good luck! Eric Russell>>

Corrected-The reef epic continues - Seeking final advice prior to set up
Seeking final advice prior to set up 10/19/08
Salutations!
I would first like to thank you all for a fantastic site! I have read so much valuable information I am almost overloaded.
<This is a good thing!>
This is why I bring forth the opportunity below.
Situation:
3 Year long 180 gallon reef project.
Experience: 5 years running a 75 gallon w/50 gallon refugium...and all the joys and nightmares of keeping an unplanned experiment that is this old tank set up.
Goal: 180 Gallon section of gorgeous coral reef (SPS and others) with fish and a clam or two. Low maintenance self sustaining eco-system that is also somewhat eco-friendly.
Progress thus far:
Build 36" tall stand and cabinetry etc...Check
Tile floors: Check
Move tank into house: Check
Design/implementation plan:
1. Build Plenum and add sand (Carib Sea Sea-floor special grade)
2. Fill with freshwater
3. Stabilize
4. Add molly's
5. Add salt over a 1 week period
6. Add dead base rock, Texas Holey rock, DIY reef rocks
7. Wait a month - then seed with good coralline algae
<I would add some actual live rock also, more biodiversity.>
8. Wait a month
9. Start adding fish (Slowly)
Equipment:
Plenum (add sulphur beads to plenum dead space)
<Skip this, with an adequate refugium you will not need this.>
Predator-PDFS-1 Skimmer
2-1500 GPH Overflows (planned) - CPR Overflows
<Do consider actually drilling for an overflow, you will be glad you did. http://www.reefercentral.com/drilling_video.html>
750-1000 Watts light - MH and VHO (Considering LED Setup for heat and power benefits)
<The LEDs are nice, the T5 lighting is better/more cost effective for the time being.>
30Gallon sump/refugium/mud bed
Sulphur denitrator -
In-line UV Sterilizer
<Again, a properly set up and maintained system of this sort will not need the two above.>
CA reactor (Eventually)
<A great addition to a reef.>
RO-DI Auto Top off
<This too, great!>
2-6kgph internal powerheads (considering 1 or 2 EcoTech Marine powerheads)
Rainbow Life-guard 6000 or larger return pump.
Chiller 1/3 hp
Questions:
1. Is this design overkill?
<No, except for the denitrator and UV IMO.>
2. Do I need this much circulation?
Roughly 3kgph average (with a peak potential of 7.5Kgph)
<The flow can work, depending on how it is implemented (not too laminar; one direction). http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm>
3. Am I creating more problems by having the plenum with sulphur media and sump, and sulphur denitrator?
<I think so, would skip this.>
4. Will I do more harm by NOT introducing truly "wild" liverock?
<Live rock is beneficial, should be introduced.>
5. Local home improvement store sells fiberglass screen rated to handle large pets...would you recommend it?
<Yes, this is fine for many apps, including plenums.>
Thank you,
Shaun Drutar
<Welcome, Scott V.>

New system design critique & questions, reef  9/29/08
Hi to all you WWM gurus,
<Hello Chris.>
It's been quite some time since I last wrote to you but here I am back!
First off, the obligatory but still very much heartfelt thanks to you all for the wondrous resource you provide to all us inadequate reefers out here.
<Thank you.>
I have been an obsessive reader of the daily FAQs for around 4 years now & have hardly missed a day! I have also read probably most of the marine section over this time as well (sadly my memory is not up to the job of remembering all of the advice therein!) I also have Bob's CMA book, Anthony's Coral prop book and their joint effort - reef invertebrates - all of which I recommend without hesitation (when is the next Natural Marine Aquarium book due Bob? soon hopefully!)
<No idea, perhaps Bob may.><<Unfortunately all are on hold. RMF>>
For clarity I have put my specific questions at the bottom of this email however any comments you have in addition regarding my plans are as ever more than welcome.
<Okay.>
Anyway, the reason for my email is the planning of my new reef system (mainly SPS with some LPS & of course fishes!)
The plan so far is -
Main Display/Coral growing tank -
60" L x 26" W x 20" H Main tank with approx 18" water depth which should give me around 460 litres/122 US Gallon. This will be fitted with a "coast to coast" weir along the back of the tank (60") drilled for two overflow drains of 32mm (1 1/4") each draining to sump.
Lighting will be 1 x 150w MH & 1 x 250w MH probably with 6500k Iwasaki bulbs (supplemented with actinic tubes)
0In this tank I plan to have patches of sand (retained by glass walls) for Fungia & slipper corals etc, probably Caribsea 0.5-1mm grain, initially 20 - 30kg of Ultra grade Fiji LR (light & porous) in an open structure (possibly 2 sea mounts) supported on eggcrate.
Most water motion will be supplied by Koralia/Tunze style diffused /stream pumps - I'll be shooting for around 20,000 litres per hour here.
Livestock will be mostly SPS with some LPS and moderate fish load (I want to plan for moderate to high here)
Refugium tank -
Slightly above this (just enough to gravity drain to main tank) & off to one side will be a 24" x 24" refugium with a tank height of 18" & a water depth of approx 14" - gives me around 132 litres/35 US gallon water capacity. This is drilled for a 20mm 3/4" drain through side of tank (no weir fitted currently) which will drain to main tank. I aim to supply this with a dedicated pump feed either from the main tank or the sump supplying around 750 litres per hour/200 US Gph with no additional flow in the fuge.
<I would definitely make the drain on this refugium larger, a ¾” is only good for 150 gph reliably and they do clog/plug very easy.>
With this fuge I am aiming to generate plankton/pods & other live foods for the system and nutrient export, to this end the fuge will have Chaeto and a thin substrate of Caribsea Fiji pink 0.5mm - 1mm grain less than 20mm deep with LR rubble This will be lit by 2 x 6400k energy saving bulbs (30w each - equivalent to 2 x 150w conventional bulbs)
There will be no predatory critters in here just Nassarius & Ceriths & hopefully good populations of sand critters.
Sump -
To the side of the Fuge (giving "L" shaped setup to all 3 tanks) will be the sump, 42"L x 21.5"W x 22"H with a water depth of approx 15" which will give me around 221 litres/59 US Gallon water here (leaving a "spare" capacity to full of 103 litres/27 US Gallon for pump failure)
Chamber design yet to be decided but 1st chamber will be where drains from main tank are & Deltec APF600 skimmer and fluidisers for carbon & Rowaphos (all sitting in chamber - raised if need be) with Schuran Pico Calcium reactor feeding to this chamber (to be upgraded at a later date when calcium uptake outstrips this reactor). At the other end of the sump will be the return pump chamber with auto top off and Oceanrunner 3500lph pump returning to main tank - this should give me around 2-2500 litres per hour (530-660 US Galph) at my estimated maximum of 1.5metres of head (likely to be less than this & thus slightly more flow) also here will be the fuge feed pump if I decide to pump from here rather than from the main tank directly.
So, a total system volume of around 813 litres/ 215 US gallons This system is going in my basement where I have loads of space so footprint is not a real issue here
<Great!>
Now - onto my questions!
1. I would like to run a DSB of around 6" depth of sugar fine aragonite sand (unlit) mainly for NNR however any free live foods produced here are clearly more than welcome!, I potentially have an area available in the sump of 21" wide by around 17" long, should I use this space or use a separate container fed from & draining back to the sump?
<Either will work the same, if you have the space a separate container gives you that much more volume and it could make things easier to manage going modular.>
I am tempted more to use the separate container and leave the space in the sump for settling and possibly LR (I want quite an open display without too much LR) .
<Sounds good.>
Would you recommend in sump DSB or remote in this instance - if remote approx what size would you shoot for (surface area), how much water depth above DSB and what flow rate approx.
<Many people have had great success with just a simple 5 gallon bucket as a remote DSB. If you have the room and resources the larger the better with DSBs.>
If in sump will the flow rate through the sump be adequate or need tempering?
<You may have to diffuse the flow as to not blow the sand around, but the amount of flow should be workable.>
2. Is the substrate for the fuge suitable for my intention? (live food production & nutrient export), should I have the LR rubble on top of the thin sand bed or separated by a divider?
<The substrate is good, I would put some LR rubble or even rock in there. LR is a food production media too. More info here, it is constantly being added to: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/podreprofaqs.htm>
3. Is the flow through the fuge adequate in this size of fuge? I think my lights here should be fine.
<Oh yes, both will be fine.>
4. What quantity of LR should I be shooting for bearing in mind the nutrient export from Chaeto harvest & NNR activity of the DSB? - I am figuring maybe around 40kg in total of super porous & light "ultra" Fiji - am I in the right ball park here of do I need to go cap in hand to my wife for an extension of the budget!
<Filtration wise this will be fine. Since you want little rock in the display, aesthetics in the rock count are out. Do keep in mind that many fish require quite a bit of LR in which to graze and hide.>
5. Does the flow through the sump seem about right (considering this is quite a wide sump at 21 1/2")?
<Yes, this will be fine, a very practical/manageable flow.>
5. would you bother with my "sand islands" in the main tank or just go for a thin sand substrate all over?
<I personally would not bother with the islands, but it is your taste that counts here!>
Many thanks as ever.
Cheers
Chris
<Welcome, have fun with this project, Scott V.>

Re: New system design critique & questions, reef  10/1/08
Hi Scott,
<Hello Chris.>
Thanks for the reply.
<My pleasure.>
I agree with adding another drain to the refugium - hole cutter ordered
- lets just hope I don't pop the tank in the process!
<Go slow with light pressure. Let the hole saw do the work and all will be fine.>
I've decided to go for a remote DSB - what size should I be looking at for a system this size? Would a 18"x12" bed be about right at 6" deep?
<This will work, no definite size guidelines here. Just that bigger is better.>
Aragonite is fiendishly expensive in the UK, what are the issues with using some aragonite mixed with silica sand to cut down the cost considerably?
<A few. The shape, silica sand tends to be sharper/more angular which leads to easier "packing out".
The sharpness can also be detrimental to snails and such in the sand. You will also lose some buffering ability.
That being said, some do use silica sand for this purpose, it does work. If it were me I would not mix. There is nothing inherently wrong with mixing the two, I would just either go the cheap route and place all silica or buy aragonite as funds are available.
I would hate to see you spend the money on half aragonite, mix with silica, only to want all aragonite in the future. For more info pro and con visit http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsubfaqs.htm and the linked files above.>
or coral sand?
<Not crushed coral, the large type.>
(it's not a good time for a 2nd mortgage!!)
If this size of DSB is about right what flow rate over should I be shooting for?
<A few hundred gph up to your total sump flow, assuming the flow is diffuse enough to keep the sandbed in tact.>
probably with around 4"-5" of water depth over the sand bed.
<This will be fine.>
Also I've decided to go for 2x150w Halide (possibly adding another 1 or 2 later).
<Sounds good.>
Cheers
Chris
<Talk soon, Scott V.>

Natural Reef Tank? Set up, op.  – 09/22/08
Hi,
<<Hello Sue>>
I have been working with my son for the last 5 years on our reef tank, sharing the learning and the expense. He has moved on to college and I have the reef tank.
<<Good to know you’re staying in the hobby>>
I have been reading everything I can on this hobby.
<<Wise of you>>
I have more time to reacquaint myself with the Wisconsin Reef Society and Reef Central.
<<The/a local hobby club is an excellent resource. Posting queries on the NET such as you are doing here is a helpful recourse in many instances, and certainly welcome…but nothing beats having a knowledgeable hobbyists available to come “lays eyes” on your tank if/when a “situation” develops>>
In doing this, I am quickly becoming overwhelmed by the numerous items used by the members to maintain the reef systems.
<<Oh? Taking your time and reading/researching should these “items” should help with this>>
I do understand many differing corals need differing lights and so on.
<<Indeed… We often encourage hobbyists to “specialize” for these very reasons. How specific depends on the individual wants/likes of the aquarist…but by at least not mixing organisms from differing niches of the reef one can “narrow” the requirements of their system and ultimately increase its chances of success>>
What I am concerned with is----I have only live rock, sand, protein skimmer, power heads working for my tank.
<<Not uncommon…and can be quite successful as such…though the addition of a sump and refugium would be a very worthwhile addition, in my opinion>>
We started off with an expensive Eheim canister filter but emptied it and just run water through, a kind of sump.
<<I see… These units, though pricey as you state, are of very high quality. But unless one is very diligent about maintenance (cleaning the unit at least once a week), they are usually best left off reef systems. Keeping the unit in service but empty as you have done is fine, and does provide some small increase in system volume. It also makes the unit available for “emergency” use re some chemical media. Speaking of which, you might want to consider utilizing a small bit of carbon in the canister filter on a punctuated yet regular basis. Running a cup or two of carbon in the filter for a few days (3-4) every two-three weeks will help to improve the REDOX of the system, help remove nitrogenous solutes, and help keep the water clearer>>
I have kept the fish load very low, one fish our damsel, sadly passed on while we were on vacation. I did add a Sixline wrasse, and tried a magenta Pseudochromis who is in the time out tank now.
<<Mmm, did you research these fishes beforehand? Both can be big trouble in smaller systems>>
I have beautiful frogspawn coral, gorgeous open brain, xenia, some polyp type coral sprang up years later from a live rock and those are growing well, some indo/pacific mushrooms.
<<So…leaning toward that common favorite the mixed garden reef>>
I also have a short spine sea urchin for years, dwarf variety reef crabs, Nassarius snails and a couple turbo snails and some grape Caulerpa in the tank.
<<Do read up re this genus of macroalgae as it can quickly become problematic in reef displays by overgrowing sessile inverts and/or releasing noxious chemicals>>
I use compact fluorescent 10K actinic at about 260 watts. The nitrates are never up, no ammonia; the alkalinity is up around 8.2-8.4 steady,
<<I’m guessing you are referring to the pH here, rather than the alkalinity>>
salinity I run about 1.026 to 1.028,
<<I would strive to keep this closer to NSW values (1.025/1.026)>>
calcium drip made from a milk jug and small tubing, nothing fancy. Will my tank be fine using this method?
<<I suspect it will/has been…but you tell me…is it running fine?>>
I was not feeding often maybe 1 time a week but with our new fish now feed 2 times a day, Formula 1, 2, Cyclops-eeze--all frozen, once a week DT's phytoplankton (live), occasionally Zooplex, Phytoplex.
<<Do be cautious re overuse of the liquid supplements…some even refer to these as no more than “pollution in a bottle”>>
I use Lugol's iodine,
<<Most any system can benefit from iodine/iodide supplementation…but be very cautious here with this very strong iodine solution>>
molybdenum and strontium, these I add per bottle recommendations every 4 days.
<<There is still a need to test to determine dosage, even a need for such. Many systems can supplement these ions quite easily and economically through frequent partial water changes>>
Hopefully, I am not over feeding now.
<<Is easily done… But I am a big proponent of feeding your fishes/reef, and a couple small feedings a day is much preferred over your previous mentioned feeding regimen>>
I try to adjust by the look of the critters and testing; if not what is my tank’s normal, I adjust also with a small water change.
<<Ah! A fine methodology>>
I use RO water from the grocery store---very cheap by the gallon.
<<Mmm…you don’t mention the size of this tank, but even so, I suspect an RO-DI filter would pay dividends here>>
I was having some issues with algae growth a couple years ago and so switched as we have higher phosphates in the drinking water.
<<A good move>>
Although, I have also increased the calcium a bit and that has helped too.
<<Yes…maintaining Calcium and Alkalinity towards the higher end of the scale is thought to hinder the growth of some nuisance alga>>
Not much algae, occasionally a little more Cyanobacteria than I want.
<<Based on some personal experience; keeping your salinity from going above NSW levels may help here. As will reading (if you haven’t already) the articles and other hobbyist’s accounts on the website. Start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm >>
But, I do not have as many snails, reef crabs and cleaner crew as are recommended by some companies in the tank.
<<These “recommendations” are generally unsustainable populations. Many of these critters (e.g. – “reef” crabs) are opportunistic omnivores that will consume much more than the nuisance organisms. You can use these “cleanup crews” if you wish (some here like them, some don’t), but be careful not to employ too many as they will only perish and contribute to fouling the system>>
My questions:
1. I am happy with my tank but am changing lighting to T5 6 bulbs 54 watts each (my lighting fixture is going, the bulbs are good but fixture is not).
<<The T5s are an excellent alternative/upgrade>>
Will that be too bright for my mid-ranged frogspawn?
<<I don’t have enough detail on your system (size/depth of tank, placement of the livestock, etc.) to say with certainty, but these animals are quite adaptable to a wide range of conditions and, as long as properly acclimated to the lighting, will be fine>>
2. Can I keep the light fixture over open water on legs or over a glass covering- or do some people hang the T5 over the open water and how close to the water do they have to be ( the compacts are on legs and over glass)?
<<My preference is to NOT cover the tank to foster better light transmission. Whether supported on legs or suspended is up to you and what works best with your tank configuration…but either way, it is generally recommended to keep fluorescent bulbs within about three inches of the water’s surface to maximize light penetration>>
3. What other corals would be found in the Indo-Pacific area that would complement what I have (I would love your opinion)?
<<My preference would be to steer away from the Corallimorpharians and “polyps” and stick with Euphyllids like your Frogspawn with maybe the addition of Anchor coral (Euphyllia ancora) and/or Bubble coral (Plerogyra spp.). Adding some color variances of Brain coral (Trachyphyllia sp.), with a few Plate corals (Fungiids) scattered on the substrate should make for a nice display. Do keep in mind; the Euphyllids will require adequate separation from everything (some as much as 10”) to prevent them stinging/killing their neighbors with their long sweeper tentacles>>
Do the mushrooms I have belong?
<<A few low in the tank might be okay for a time…but these most noxious of organisms have a way of propagating throughout a tank…and to the detriment of many of the other organisms>>
4. I thought I read somewhere that it is now thought beneficial to place a tank under a window with window light but I cannot find where I read that again, is that true?
<<Hmm, I doubt you would be able to position the tank such that this would prove of much benefit…or at least be worth the possible swings in temperature (drafts or heat build-up…depending). I would not do this solely for this reason>>
5. I would love some reassurance that having a reef tank doesn't have to cost tons of money-
<<This is generally in relation to the “size” of the system…but even then, once the initial costs are done, a balanced system can be left to grow without undue maintenance expense>>
-i.e.: corals will grow to cover open areas,
<<Ah yes… Many hobbyists are in a rush to fill every open space in their tanks (and then have to deal with the problems of overcrowding in the long term), but selecting a few choice specimens and giving them the room and time to grow will make for a healthy and attractive (and more natural) display>>
once the initial expense of live rock, sand, lighting and protein skimmer not much else is needed except maintenance (and up to date light bulbs)-
<<Indeed…as long as you can resist the urge to “add just one more coral/fish”>>
-I do plan to add a refugium as I think that is a great idea for copepod growing.
<<As well as for fostering other planktonic and epiphytic life, increasing bio-diversity and water volume, etc.…a whole host of benefits>>
6. Is there something I am missing as reading the forums on Reef Central has my head swimming with so many items people have?
<<You have the basic components…as well as a bit of time/experience with this system. You stated you make adjustments to the system based on the look of your critters…well, what are they telling you now? If your system is healthy as is, there no need to be concerned with other’s “items”>>
I truly appreciate your information.
<<We’re happy to share>>
I have many of the books but see that new ones are now written and plan to update my books as well.
<<Very good>>
I enjoy reading the questions and answers; I love reading the articles and keep them handy for reference.
<<There is indeed much info available on the site, and may I suggest a Google search on marine setups/maintenance…keep reading/researching!>>
Thank you on the Wet Web Crew!!
Sue
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
<<A pleasure to assist. Regards, EricR…Columbia, SC>>

Re: Natural Reef Tank? – 09/24/08
EricR
<<Hello Sue>>
For some reason I thought I had put the size of the tank in the email. I cannot believe I did not do this.
<<Helpful info for sure…but no worries>>
Anyways, it is 75 gallon the depth from top to top of sand is 20 inches. The substrate is aragonite. I have about 125-150 pounds of live rock mostly Fiji some Tonga (unusual shaped).
<<This is an awful lot of rock…where will the corals have room to grow…fish to swim?>>
The tank has been up and running for 5 or 6 years. I have about 2-3 inches of aragonite.
<<I am a big proponent of DSBs…I would add another inch or so to boost this substrates usefulness>>
Early had up to 4-6 inches but was told by the one who wrote the book to take it down a bit.
<<There are varying opinions for sure, and the grain-size of the substrate also plays a role…but I would still add an inch or two here. My own reef system sports a bed of sugar-fine Aragonite from 6”-8” inches in depth>>
The first year we had large amounts of Caulerpa, then removed all.
<<This genus of Macroalgae can be very useful…and also very problematic. It is likely best that you removed it>>
During this time we did develop hair algae and just removed this mechanically.
<<A little “hair algae” is not necessarily a bad thing as it provides a bit more bio-diversity and habitat for same…and is certainly “natural”>>
The tank is running just beautiful as it is set up with the protein skimmer, powerheads, compact fluorescent lights, heaters, an expensive Eheim canister being used as a sort of make shift sump.
<<Mmm well, perhaps better left alone then… rather than worrying what others are doing to/in their systems>>
We currently have some grape Caulerpa in the tank, if which will be removed and put into a refugium when I can get one added. Which I hope will be in the next couple months.
<<The refugium will be an excellent addition, but I will urge you here to reconsider replacing the Caulerpa with a more “user-friendly” species of Macroalgae like Chaetomorpha linum (https://livecopepods.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=8)>>
I had mentioned that I had a magenta Pseudochromis and Sixline wrasse that did not get along so the Pseudochromis is in a small timeout tank, a 10 gallon for which I have purchased a 29 g BioCube. I had sent an email to the Crew about the wrasse and Pseudochromis. The Crew thought given the tank size and live rock the pseudo and wrasse would be OK but to watch.
<<Generally a “gamble” with both species>>
We all underestimated this Pseudochromis.
<<Not uncommon>>
I have decided to keep the Sixline in the 75 gallon tank.
<<This fish too can be quite the little terror…and will likely make it difficult to add other fishes of similar size/shape/habitat>>
I am trying not to create the "garden variety" type of coral reef tank for my home.
<<Ah good…I myself like to gently steer folks towards specializing a bit by selecting a particular species to keep, a particular habitat/niche of the reef to replicate, or even to just make sure they choose animals all from the same ocean as I believe this makes for a better, healthier, easier to keep, and certainly more “natural” display in the long term. But even so, there’s no disputing the popularity of the mixed garden reef>>
In my plant gardening, I have native prairie plants specific to the soil and area I live.
<<Ah, I see…and no doubt this makes tending your garden all that much easier/successful>>
I am trying to do the same with my tank, although even with reading the books, I am still somewhat confused by which corals grow together in the reef.
<<Unfortunately there is still little hobby data re (though maybe someday when ScottF gets his book completed and published…), but some useful Intel/ideas can be gleaned from diving books and non-hobby “coffee-table” books on the world’s oceans/reefs>>
I have not been able to scuba the reefs but have snorkeled lagoons.
<<An excellent way to observe what life grows/interacts/gets along…or not>>
I have seen plate coral and Acropora, closed brain all in the same lagoon. For now if I can fix my compact fluorescent (I think the ballast on one light is out) I will keep these until I can afford a T5 set up. So I think the LPS is good for the current lights.
<<Okay>>
Once the T5 at about 350 watts I hope that the LPS will be fine.
<<As stated before…if acclimated to the new lighting, all should be fine (see here, and the associated links: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm )>>
What I am also looking for is a South Pacific, French Polynesia reef tank--so when speaking of niches is this what lives in a certain area or what goes together only with light as a consideration?
<<The former…generally speaking these are the different reef zones (fore reef, back reef, reef wall, reef crest, rubble zone, reef flat, etc.). But even so, incorporating “all” the same life found in these niches in to a home aquarium is not always practical. I once saw a picture of a rubble zone in which a largish rock provided home to eleven different species of coral, both hard and soft. It was a spectacular visage, but replicating such in the home aquarium would be very difficult re negative interactions between species…something obviously of less impact on a natural reef with its volume (millions of gallons) of water change/movement>>
I have not yet started to feed the Zooplex or Phytoplex sticking to the frozen Cyclop-Eeze, formulas 1 and 2, mysis shrimp. Should I just not use the Zooplex and Phytoplex?
<<I wouldn’t… Addition of these easily abused and likely unnecessary and, in my opinion, products of questionable utility runs the risk of too easily upsetting the “balance” your system seems to have achieved. However, I would suggest broadening the menu a bit with frozen Glass Worms if you can get them, as well as New Life Spectrum pelleted food>>
In the 75 gallon tank I do not have much room on the substrate for coral.
<<I suppose not, considering all that rock you have>>
The frogspawn I have is huge and branching.
<<And will need room to expand>>
I do have the open brain on the substrate and he is huge also.
<<Depending on the individual/species/color (if it has a funnel or convex shaped skeleton or is of a “red” color variety) this is likely an appropriate placement>>
To keep the ten inch space rule I would be able to add 2 more coral on each end of the tank.
<<Proper spacing, even of like/same species, is very important to reduce the likely hood of negative physical interaction…which consequently, happens most often at night/when the lights are out and you don’t immediately notice>>
I could add the bubble and the hammer/anchor if it is not branching as you recommended.
<<All are aggressive species with strong stings…but are also better suited to the direction your little “biotope” is taking over more chemically noxious Corallimorpharians, Zoanthids, and soft corals…especially given the size and make-up of your system>>
I have seen photos of plate coral on their side up against the rock???? It looked unnatural and so I did not think I would do that; is that OK to place them this way??
<<I would simply place them “flat” on the substrate. These organisms do have the capacity to “move about”…and will likely find positions to their liking on their own as long as you start them off right>>
I was referring to pH not hardness! Glad you caught that, I have been working so many days in a row I cannot think straight!
<<I do understand…in the middle of an “account implementation” myself>>
Off after one more day of work (in a poison center)!
<<Bet you’re looking forward to that>>
The pH of 8.2 to 8.4. For the specific gravity it seems that the coral did better slightly higher than NSW so just try to keep that where all occupants of the tank were happy.
<<Perhaps a difference in readings from the testing device\method used…and fine like you state>>
I can adjust slowly down as I strive for 1.026 and range between 1.025 to 1.026. I had thought to top off the tank with salt water to maintain the same salinity--using less if the tank is more concentrated.
<<Mmm, best to not do this…to big a risk of large swings. Use freshwater for top-offs…and adjust salinity only as/if needed…and can likely be done with your frequent water changes>>
Because that will add more minerals that are natural to the reef, rather than adding the strontium and molybdenum which is what I had been doing until I reviewed the forums of Reef Central and our local reef society. That way I cannot over dose these chemicals.
<<Especially on a tank this size, supplementation of bio-minerals is easily done with frequent partial water changes>>
Given that most of the "clean up crews" are too many critters and starve:
1. Would GARF from Idaho be a trusted place to provide what a tank needs?
<<You can get these critters from most anywhere…but I suggest that “you” do the research and decide how many/much you need>>
2. How many crabs, snails, sand sifting critters are needed?
<<Avoid any “sand-sifting “starfish…the tank isn’t large enough and even then, these critters are very efficient at decimating the beneficial substrate infauna. Crabs and snails (assuming the so-called “reef-safe” hermit crabs and snails here)…perhaps no more than dozen of each>>
3. Can a blue Linckia or small red star live in the tank?
<<You need to research these… Avoid the Linckia species altogether (dismal survival rates), but a small Fromia species could do fine>>
I did read up and actually emailed WetWebMedia about the Pseudochromis and wrasse. I was told the size of tank should be OK but Ooops, we underestimated the Pseudochromis.
<<A highly territorial and aggressive genus…though there are more captive-bred specimens becoming available that seem a bit more “tolerant”>>
So, I am getting a BioCube the 29 gallon just for him. I guess I could put the mushrooms and star polyps in that tank.
<<Indeed!>>
Here I have been so carefully growing these on larger live rock in the main tank. But, I can devote that tank just to mushrooms and the Pseudochromis.
<<With no more fish additions, this should be fine…and fun/attractive too, I think you will find>>
And, leave the other tank as you recommend. I truly believe to keep trying to keep the same animals in the niche together as you suggest.
<<Ah, excellent (ScottF…we have another!>>
I do not have much open area for substrate, and the open brain takes up most of the room--he is huge.
So is the frogspawn.
<<Normally, I would suggest removing some of the rock to make room for growth and fish/water movement…but…I am hesitant to do so here and now. Perhaps when you become a bit more comfortable with what you know/are learning…>>
But I can maybe squeeze in the bubble coral on one side as the frogspawn is in the center. The frogspawn is above to the left of the brain. I should put the star polyps in with the mushrooms, and I have out of nowhere these other coral polyps I think growing. Not sure if I can move all that live rock into the 29 gallon and it will be difficult to re landscape the 75.
<<But still likely for the better>>
Although it would definitely give more substrate room so I could lie more of the Fungia corals down or can these be placed on live rock.
<<Most all live on the bottom substrate…I would not put the animals in among the live rock>>
When I get the refugium would you suggest the mud as I have just received a video from Leng Sy, or a live sand bed?
<<The “mud system” is interesting…but ooh the price! Tis up to you as either should work fine>>
Does the light over the refugium have to remain on for an unnatural 24 hours?
<<If you go with Leng Sy’s mud system then follow the instructions re…if you go with the Chaetomorpha over a DSB then use a reverse-daylight lighting scheme>>
Thank you for your help. The more I read, the more confused I am.
Sue
<<Keep reading my friend…you're getting there. I’m here to advise if/as you need it…but there’s so much more to be gained by searching for and acquiring the information yourself. Regards, Eric Russell>>

R2: Natural Reef Tank? – 09/25/08
EricR--
<<Hiya Sue>>
Thank you,
<<Quite welcome>>
I feel by utilizing the BioCube I can keep my beautiful fish (the mean one), have a place to put the extra live rock that has the mushrooms, Zoanthids on which then will open my tank to more substrate.
<<Agreed>>
I can add finer sand to the top of the aragonite to increase the bed. Yup, I had 4-6 inches but was told to lower it down because of H2S potential by a well respected author of the book.
<<Hydrogen Sulfide is a common concern re deep sand beds, but is a largely overrated concern in my opinion. I have used the DSB methodology for more than a decade and have never encountered problems re H2S. Utilizing a fine substrate and good water flow will go far towards reducing organic buildup which can contribute to the formation of H2S in anoxic regions of the bed. There is no disputing the toxicity of Hydrogen Sulfide gas, but there are a lot of hobbyists out there utilizing deep sand beds with no problems at all re this gas. And by the way, H2S can form in a 2”-3” bed quite readily as well…especially under live rock. To really reduce/eliminate such chances you would need to reduce the depth of the substrate to about ¾” or less. As you can see, opinions will vary widely. It’s up to you to research all aspects and use your own good judgment to make a decision>>
While Leng's idea might be a good one, I am comfortable with what I am doing now so will just continue.
<<Okay>>
Where can one find the macroalgae you recommend? (For sale)
<<I sent you a link in my earlier response re, but here it is again: https://livecopepods.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=8 >>
And, now the BioCube. I am getting this with live sand, some unknown corals as I am getting this from someone in the Wisconsin reef club who has to get rid of some of his tanks, per his wife.
<<Uh-oh>>
It will be arriving just in time for my days off so I can spend time and have some fun.
<<Neat>>
I am moving the larger rocks with the mushrooms so that will be plenty of rock for the BioCube and open space for substrate placement in my tank. The seller will be bringing this over with his live sand and small amount of water. I do have water made and sitting in a 5 gallon container--not enough but I think I will have to go slow, add slowly to what he has brought over. Then I will have to acclimate each rock with mushroom to this new tank and put them in. Then I can put my fish and some frogspawn frags --I can grow this from a mm size to a large piece.
<<Do test the water before adding the livestock…even with the old water, rock, and substrate just “moving these around” may disturb the bio-filter enough and/or release organic compounds and cause this tank to cycle>>
For some reason we like each other. And, then once they are doing well give them away. Should I keep his live sand, I do not know anything about him or his tanks?
<<If the sand is pulled just before he delivers the tank…give it a sniff when you get it and if it doesn’t reek, go ahead and use it. Otherwise, you can rinse it well in clean saltwater and reuse then, though you will likely have rinsed away much of the infauna>>
Will the tank recycle when I add the live rock?
<<Maybe (see above re)>>
How long will I have to wait before I transfer this live rock to the tank once I have added enough water?
<<If there is no rush, it can only help to let the water age a day or two before adding the rock>>
You have been much help, and a great support in my efforts to create the correct bio-niche.
<<Ah…gratifying to know>>
I plan to take my time finding those corals and making sure I have adequate placement.
<<You and your system will be happier for the effort>>
My branching frogspawn is huge and probably time I give some away. But with the opening of the substrate I can add 1 – 3 more corals so that may be just enough for me. As for fish... The only fish in addition to the wrasse I really want is the yellow watchman goby---what is your thought?
<<Should be fine>>
And, a blenny--of this I am not certain, perhaps a bicolor if one fits in my niche I am creating.
<<A little research will tell>>
I am happy with just one fish also. So which ever direction you recommend I will follow.
<<I love fishes… The addition of a couple small fishes will add some “movement” and interest to the tank>>
And, while snorkeling we were surrounded by blue green chromis and thought perhaps a group of 3-5.
<<These rarely remain a “group” in small systems, in my opinion/experience…with the dominant individual causing the demise of the rest…in true Damsel fashion>>
Although increasing fish makes the reef harder to care for which makes me hesitant.
<<Fishes will increase the burden on the system greatly, yes…but if not overdone are quite manageable…and are an attractive and even required (in my opinion) addition to any reef system>>
I am glad you told me about the Linckia.
<<Ah yes>>
They are so pretty but I do not want to endanger their life nor deplete the oceans.
<<Best left to advanced hobbyists for sure>>
Sue
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>