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FAQs on Reef Set-Up 12 Related Articles: Reef Systems, Reef Set-Up,
Being Conscientious
Save money and the
reefs By Jennifer Smith,
Refugiums, Reef Filtration,
Marine System Plumbing, Marine
Aquarium Set-Up, Fish-Only Marine Set-up,
FOWLR/Fish and Invertebrate Systems,
Coldwater Systems, Small Systems,
Large Systems,
Refugiums, Marine Biotope, Marine
Landscaping, Fishwatcher's
Guides,
Related FAQs: Reef Set-Up 1, Reef
Set-Up 2, Reef Set-Up 3, Reef
Set-Up 4, Reef Set-Up 5,
Reef Set-Up 6,
Reef Set-Up 7, Reef
Set-Up 8, Reef
Set-Up 9, Reef Set-Up 10,
Reef Set-Up 11, & Reef Tanks,
Reef Lighting, Reef
Lighting 2, Reef Filtration, &
Reef Livestocking, Reef
Livestocking 2, Reef Feeding,
Reef Disease,
Reef Maintenance,
Marine
System Plumbing, Marine Aquarium Set-Up, Live
Rock, Live Sand,
Fish-Only Marine Set-ups, FOWLR/Fish
and Invertebrate Systems, Coldwater Systems, Small
Systems, Large Systems, Reef Maintenance, Biotopic
presentations, Algal Filtration in
General, Mud Filtration 1,
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The New Setup, Marine 9/1/08
Hi guys,
<Nick>
How are you all?
<Speaking for myself, great.>
After having had some experience with a couple of freshwater aquariums I have
decided to check out the marine tanks. There is a local business that is
offering a deal on a complete setup. I would like to use the tank for a full
reef setup but after reading about the needs of lighting for corals and things I
would just like your opinion before I go ahead and make a costly mistake.
Tank: 48"L x 18"W x 20"H
Filtration: 1100 LPH internal canister filter, under the tank trickle filter
with 2100 LPH return pump and protein skimmer
<If you plan on a full blown reef with live rock, I would skip the trickle and
canister filters altogether. These turn into nitrate factories; your live rock
can provide the biofiltration. http://wetwebmedia.com/reeffilt.htm and the
related FAQs will give you more info on this. Do also look into the protein
skimmer provided, they are not all equal.>
Heating: 200 Watt heater
Lighting: 4' Twin T5 High Output Light with 14000K tubes
I've read that many setups have blue light actinic tubes. Do I need them or is
the lighting in this setup sufficient for what I need?
<Actinics are really not needed for your corals, we humans in general just like
the look they provide for the tank. The lighting above is a good start,
depending on what you wish to keep you will likely end up needing to add more
light than this. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
I look forward to your reply. Thanks.
Regards,
Nick
<Welcome, Scott V.>
PS Can you please recommend any decent reading material to help make the change
to marine as smooth as possible. Thanks again.
<I would start with Bob Fenner’s book “The Conscientious Marine Aquarist”. The
second addition was recently released (yellow Lemonpeel Angel on the cover).
Just reading through the pages of WWM can provide you with a wealth of
knowledge. Do continue educate yourself before dropping the big bucks on a
system. I think all of us have many hundreds, if not thousands of dollars worth
of equipment we would not have bought after some education. Welcome to reefing!>
Just to let
you know how it came together...
SW set-up trilogy
8/21/08
Thank you all for your tremendous advice. When answering questions, the crew
often asked for feedback on how things went, so here is an update.
Mostly just an update for your info, but there are one or two questions near the
end. Most specifically about the specifig gravity of my new batch of salt water.
I know it is a little long but I am using it to track my progress for my own use
in addition to letting the crew know how well things went so far.
Enclosed below is just the text of my aquarium diary. You can see the version
with pictures included on the following web site...
http://mysite.verizon.net/ah30k/myaquariumdiary/
<http://mysite.verizon.net/ah30k/myaquariumdiary/> . I am still missing a few
pictures since my digital camera is MIA, but I will eventually find it and
upload the missing pics.
Thanks again!
ah30k
---------------
Below is a diary of how I set up our family marine tank:
Here is how our progression played out, from the impulse buying of a 175g tank
via eBay to the current state of the aquarium. Thanks to all the help from the
Crew at WetWebMedia.com who answered my many questions and were one of the few
unbiased source of advice I could find on the net!
Partial motivations are acknowledging the advice from others which was
successfully put into practice, seeking additional suggestions and simply
documenting my travels down the road.
Day 1 of the journey began 7/2/08 with an impulse buy of a new larger tank to
upgrade the family’s small freshwater system. I bought a used tank with all the
fix’ins off eBay and picked it up about a week later.
The tank is a 175g Oceanic Reef Ready tank with hood, glass tops and stand.
Photo 1 - eBay Purchase
I researched galore for what seemed like months with little to show for it. I
often seemed to take backwards steps and wondered if I would ever actually be
able to add any livestock. Since the tank is so large and heavy I knew I would
have little ability to move things around once established.
One worry seems to be power so I routed an unused 240v/30a electric dryer outlet
(we have natural gas for our dryer) on the opposite side of the wall into the
tank area and now have two dedicated 120v/30a circuits for the tank. Don’t tell
the building inspector!
Based on WWM research, I figured I would need more circulation and drainage than
the reef-ready tank could provide. The stock tank only had two 1” Durso
standpipes, one in each overflow box. I decided to go with an additional closed
loop system containing two additional 1 ½ bulkheads on the back wall and a
custom return manifold.
Before bringing the tank inside, my glazier neighbor drilled the two additional
drain holes on the back wall for a closed loop system. He laughed at the
internet groups that claim drilling tanks is easy for rookies, thanked them all
for keeping him in business and kindly offered to help me drill the glass. He
used a vacuum mounted professional drill from his shop with a professional
hole-saw to drill my tank and refugium. Anyone need an unused glass-holes.com
hole saw for a 1 1/2 bulkhead? Never been used! No offense to glass-holes, but I
could not turn down the professional help!
While the tank was outside, I painted the back panel with a blue top-center area
fading to black area which camouflaged the drain holes and overflow boxes. I
thought this was a good compromise for the blue which I think looks good and the
black which hides the internal mechanicals & plumbing. I also painted the one
exposed overflow area on the side of the tank which would be visible from the
living room. I was less concerned with aquarium safe paint for the external
surfaces and went with standard Rustolium spray paint. Everything was looking
great except for the white nuts that mount the bulkheads! I then painted the
nuts with what I sure hope is aquarium safe paint. It would be nice to be able
to buy these nuts in black but I could not find any.
Photo 2 - Tank with holes and paint
Time to move the tank inside and start the fun work!
I built the custom return manifold and plumbed an eBay’ed Iwaki MD-70-RLT (which
claimed to be new and sure looked it) via the two new bulkheads on the back
glass. I used the same paint I used on the bulkhead nuts for the manifold and
laid on about three or four coats of paint on the exposed areas.
Photo 3 – Unassembled return manifold
Photo 4 - Return manifold in tank
Photo 5 - Closed loop system
So far, so good and I am feeling pretty good. It seems to be coming together.
Based on my research, I decided to go with a refugium, DSB (in the refugium) and
skimmer as the main filtration method. As a result, I removed the wet/dry and
bartered (two lbs of fresh coffee beans from a family member) for a 50g tank to
use as the refugium which would be located under the tank in the stand.
Darn! The 50g tank I hoped to use for the refugium does not fit under my stand
due to the support frame around the refugium tank sticking out a ¼” more than
the tank on both the front and back. Plan B is to plumb through the floor, under
the laundry room and to the garage (about 5 or 6 ft away). I know climate may be
challenging in the garage but I can hopefully insulate the tank in the winter
cold or summer heat (PA).
This may turn out to be OK in the long-run since it will cut down on the noise
and make maintenance easier.
I am holding off on partitions in the refugium for now. I’ll use the moveable
partitions I read about here after things are up and running.
WWM - Pressure Locking Baffles
Based on WWM research that 1” Dursos will only yield 200 – 300 gph, I converted
the two stock ¾ returns to Durso drains to improve flow. To get return lines
back to the tank, I threw two quick temporary return lines over the back edge of
the tank for now.
I plumbed the refugium & T4 pump in the garage to the main tank under the
laundry room. I hope the turns do not introduce too much back pressure; I used
dual 45° elbows rather than one 90° elbow whenever possible to ease the flow.
I took about 30 trips to Lowes and must have spent a fortune on fittings, pipes,
tools and acrylic panels but things are looking up!
Photo 6 - Refugium in garage and associated plumbing
I fired up the tank for a leak test on 8/10/08. Man this is nerve wracking but I
have been waiting for this! I put the garden hose in the refugium and plugged in
the T4. Nothing! A quick Google search suggested priming the pump. I started
sucking on one of the 1” return lines while my son sealed of the other return
but quickly started to worry about a big circular hickey on my mouth for the
next week and aborted Plan A. Plan B is to find another source of suction. While
using the house vacuum is to be very much discouraged, I thought I could be
careful and pull out before the water made it into the vacuum.
Success and now the T4 is pumping from the refugium into the main tank.
Man, the T4 is transferring the water into the main tank faster than the garden
hose can keep up so I need to keep unplugging the pump to let the refugium
refill. It is SUPER quiet as well. Very impressed with the Velocity T4 (also now
called the Poseidon PS4 I think) so far. All looks good so far.
Uh, oh. Water is dripping into the cabinet under the tank.
Found a loose hose clamp and a pin hole leak in one of the used drain pipes from
the original standpipes. To fix the drain without emptying the whole tank, I
removed the top portion of the converted 3/4 standpipes to lower the water level
in the tank leaving the leaking one high and dry. Water level dropped just as
planned. Oops! If he water drops in the main tank, where does it go? Uh, oh. Out
in the garage there is a waterfall coming from the refugium all over the garage
floor.
It is coming from the overflow bulkhead I installed but never plumbed.
My impatience with getting the system running burned me. Had I actually plumbed
the overflow out to the yard it would have been a non-event.
Not much was damaged and I guess a leak is better in the garage than in the
family room.
Fixed that leak and successfully ran the refugium/tank combo. Although the
Dursos are not gurgling at all, the overflows are still a little loud from the
falling water about three inches. It seems to be more coming from the areas I
cut into the overflows to make room for the manifold so I may seal that area up
a bit with silicone. I think I can raise the water level by raising the Dursos
but I am really not in the mood for the extra work.
Feeling confident, I fired up the Iwaki closed loop system and manifold.
Darn that pump is SO much louder than the T4 which is nearly silent.
The Iwaki sounds like a shop-vac and is not very wife-friendly! Note the irony
in the fact that the silent T4 pump is now in my garage and the loud one is in
my family room. This is definitely not good! Back to Lowes and time to move the
Iwaki into the garage as well. BTW, Lowes has a much more impressive selection
of plumbing fittings than Home Depot. I was so ready to move on to the next step
and am not too pumped (no pun intended) about going back to plumbing work ?. I
was kind of pleased with how the closed-loop looked and now I have to cut it
out.
Oh well, so goes like and if this is my big problem in life, I guess I am lucky.
Photo 7 - Garage area with refugium and closed-loop pump Success!
On to the lights… Ahhhhh! HO, VHO, T5, MH, HQI, shallow water, deep water????
What to do???
I have about 25 ½" of water depth after accounting for sand (72" wide) and want
to keep anemones and eventually corals. I have a hood with about 7" of clearance
but can and will likely leave the three top access panels open to improve
ventilation. Looks like T5-HO and MH retrofits are the way to go since I have
more than two feet of water but I am really running short of cash! Since I hear
you should really establish your tank for a year before adding the non-fishes I
will only do the T5s for now. I can add HQI retrofits later. I ordered two
Current Nova Extreme 36” T5 HO retro fixtures (each has individual reflectors on
1x39w 10k and 1x39w 460nm bulbs) for a total of 2x39w 10k & 2x39w 460nm or 156
total watts. I know this is woefully under-powered but I want to see how well
these retrofits fit under the hood. From there I can plan out the extra space
for two or three 250w HQIs and more T5s. For now I really only need enough light
to get the LR cured, tank stabilized and introduce the first couple of fish.
Also, I read on one of the ReefCentral Tank of the Month selections of someone
with even a deeper tank running with just T5-HOs. We’ll see.
Time to drain the tap water, make a batch of DI filtered water, de-chlorinate
(DI doesn't dechlorinate does it?), order the LR and aragonite and add the salt.
The saltwater should be ready to go by the time I have time to pick up the LR.
On 8/16/08 I made a tank full of water but am totally stumped by the SG readings
I am getting. A dunk of the measuring device tells me my SG is off the chart
high. I used a bucket of Instant Ocean (160g) plus some more of a second bucket
to the manufacturer’s specifications thinking I had about 200g of water in the
main tank and the refugium. Why am I so high on the SP???? I will check again
when I return from a business trip later this week but I am nervous because I am
bringing home 200 lb of WSI LR with me from the airport. If I can’t get the
water right very quickly then I risk leaving the LR out of water too long. Wish
me luck!
======== Estimates of future below here (planning) ========
Next steps are to get the LR in the tank and start thinking of the refugium
design. I read that DSBs want raw unfiltered water and skimmers like constant
water levels so I came up with the following design. Area #1 is the tank return
area with nothing in it. Overflows into the DSB area. Then overflows into the
skimmer area and finally overflows into the return area.
Photo 8- Refugium Design
I am using 1” of sand in the main tank. I know this ½” < x < 3” zone is
dangerous by some accounts but I want enough to come close to the lip of the
stand surrounding the tank and am not willing to go DSB in the main tank. I
don’t think it would look good and don’t need the extra expense of all that
sand. Maybe a risk but I am thinking of sticking with just shy of 1”. If this is
super trouble as opposed to just a little dangerous, please someone let me know.
<<A really good write up of your own personal experiences. Emails such as this
are invaluable to others seeking info in the hobby. Many thanks for sharing this
with us / viewers. Regards. A Nixon>>
Questions from a Newbie 8/13/08
New to the saltwater world, been reading a lot. Have had a 55g
freshwater tank for over a year. I have purchased an up and running 55g
saltwater with 5 fish, couple crabs, bunch of hermits and snails and a
shrimp, live rock (27 rocks, don't know how to estimate lbs) and sand
(about 2" deep). Uses 2 fluval cartridge filters, 204 and 404. (Nitrates
160, Salinity 1.030 when I got it! Nitrates 40, Salinity 1.023 now,
working the nitrates down with water changes.)
I have also purchased a 120g tank with a 30g sump that I am planning to
startup.
<Okay.>
My questions:
1) The setup came with one overflow box, 1" bulkhead. I'm thinking of
using 2 overflow boxes, 1" B/H in each or a rated 1200 GPH, but from
reading your site planning on 600 GPH, then using a ¾" return to a
Current Switching Valve (3iQ Ventures) fed from a Rio 20HF HyperFlow for
the return pump (870 GPH at my head height that I will adjust with a
ball valve) and 2 Hydor Koralia #2 Powerheads (600 GPH each) for a total
of about 1800 GPH total circulation. How does this setup sound?
<There are many numbers floating around about how much a 1” drain can
flow, 300 gph is the actual number. Also, consider running an extra
overflow or two for redundancy, if two will flow what you are running,
use three or four overflows. One will likely fail in time and this will
keep the water in the tank. Do also consider drilling this tank before
setting up, it is a far more reliable method to transit water to the
sump.>
2) The sump (pic attached) has ½" openings between chambers. This seems
very limiting to me. Will I have to reconfigure or will this work?
<This is a bit small, but can work. The issue you may run into with
higher flows is higher water velocity through these openings. This means
that the baffles will be less effective at stopping bubbles.>
3) I am planning a 5" DSB in the refugium in the sump. Do I still need a
DSB in the display tank or can I go 2" deep there? (looking for ways to
reduce startup costs, but willing to invest if best for the long run)
<You can run a DSB in one or the other, the more the better. If you do
not run a DSB in the display, 1” or less is all that is needed/wanted.>
4) Not sure the best way to start the new tank and transfer the fish,
sand and rock. I'm thinking of filling the new tank with new water and
half of the live rock from existing tank, then cycle for a month or
until all the numbers look good. Then move the fish and the remaining
rock. With this plan, I'm not sure how to move the sand without making a
mess of either the existing tank before I move the fish or the new tank
after it is up and running. I'll obviously be buying a bunch of new sand
but would like to use the existing also. Your thoughts?
<I would just move everything at once. One move is less disturbing,
moving half your rock out disrupts some of the filtration on your
existing tank, and you should not need to cycle/cure your existing rock
in the new system. You may even consider bringing the Fluval filter over
to the new system for the first few weeks to help out.>
Thanks for your help and for your great site.
Jeff Gaines
<Welcome and thank you, Scott V.>
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Setting Up Plumbing on a Large Reef Tank – 07/25/08
Hello all,
<<Greetings Larry>>
I've just taken delivery on a used 540 gallon tank (8' x 3' x 3').
<<Very nice>>
It is drilled in back with two 2" bulkheads in the top corners (about 2" from
the top), four 1" bulkheads evenly spaced between the 2" bulkheads, and five 1"
bulkheads evenly spaced around 6" from the bottom.
<<Wow…lots to work with here…excellent>>
When I get it set up, it will be primarily stocked with LPS from the Faviidae
and Caryophyllidae families. I plan to have flow at a rate of about 10 times
volume per hour (5400 gallons per hour). Do you think that will be an
appropriate turnover for the system?
<<I’m a big proponent of heavy and vigorous flow Larry… Some may disagree, but I
would plan on at least twice this volume of flow. In tanks of size such as this,
the 5400gph you are planning will be disappointing…and deficient for the overall
best health of your corals/system>>
I expect to get about 3700 gph flow from my existing pair of Tunze 6000s unless
I alternate them with the 7095 controller, which would reduce the flow rate.
<<As the owner of an eight-foot long reef tank myself, and outfitted with seven
Tunze Stream pumps of differing models…these pumps will have trouble providing
sufficient flow along the entire length…best to run them opposing each other and
together on the controller set to “Pulse” for maximum effect/water movement in
this large tank, in my opinion>>
I would like to feed by sump about 600 gph as this is the flow rate required by
my protein skimmer.
<<That’s fine…though you certainly have the overflows to go a bit more with any
problem…how ‘bout 1200gph?>>
The remainder of the flow I would like to get via closed-loop(s).
<<You have the throughputs!>>
I'm stuck in figuring out how to tie all of the bulkheads together appropriately
to achieve my circulation goals.
<<I would “tee” the deeper intakes to one or more likely two external
closed-loop pumps>>
The prior owner used the corner 2" bulkheads as feeds to his sump and the four
1" bulkheads along the top as returns from the sump. If I did that, I don't
think that I will get sufficient flow from the remaining bulkheads to generate
the volume that I desire.
<<Not true necessarily. The hydro-dynamics of a closed-loop are much different
than those of a gravity drain. If you have a 2000gph pump with a 1” intake port,
then you only need one 1” bulkhead to supply the pump. Granted, using bigger or
multiple supply bulkheads will reduce the “force” of the water flow at the
intake if this is a concern>>
I am considering running the 2" bulkheads to the sump, building a return that
goes over the back instead of through the existing bulkheads.
<<okay>>
That would leave me nine 1" bulkheads for closed-loops.
<<More than sufficient>>
I could then run two closed-loops, each fed by two of the bulkheads along the
top of the tanks and returning by two of the bulkheads along the bottom of the
tank.
<<This is okay…as long as the upper bulkheads are deep enough to not become
“exposed” by fluctuating water levels…and will certainly make keeping the
intakes clean/open much easier than if they are deep or buried within the
rockwork>>
I would either close off the fifth bulkhead along the bottom or split one of the
returns three ways instead of two.
<<Okay>>
Is this a reasonable/viable plan?
<<It is>>
Am I off base or missing something?
<<Perhaps only in your perception of how many bulkheads are “required” to feed
the closed-loop pump. But as stated…more bulkheads will mean less suction force
per bulkhead and less chance of “trapping “ livestock against the intake>>
Also, do you have any recommendations for pumps that would be appropriate for
running the circulation?
<<Ah yes… Large Iwaki pumps for the closed-loops and an Eheim submersible for
the sump return. Dolphin and Sequence pumps would give higher flow rates for the
closed-loops, but you would need to increase the size of the intake bulkheads in
the tank to match that of the chosen pump model. Though you “might” be able to
keep from starving the pumps by utilizing more than one intake per pump as you
have planned>>
I could use my Iwaki MD-100 for the sump, but it generates much more flow than I
am planning for the sump and has high energy consumption.
<<Would work for one of the closed-loops>>
I would prefer something more efficient than the Iwaki.
<<All things considered (quality, longevity)…a difficult task>>
Thanks for your help!
Larry
<<Larry, if this tank is going to be positioned in/near a frequently used family
living space you may well find the closed-loops and their associated pumps to be
too much noise. If this is the case, you may want to consider spending the money
re on more and bigger Tunze Stream pumps to provide for the flow in the
tank…energy consumption will be a fraction of as well. Regards, EricR>>
Re: Setting Up Plumbing on a Large Reef
Tank – 07/26/08
Okay, I was having trouble figuring out the flow as I was looking at the
throughput for 1" bulkheads on an open-loop, which is considerably more limited.
<<Ah yes>>
I'm not certain I understand why a 1" bulkhead has different throughput for an
open-loop than it would for a closed-loop, perhaps you can elaborate a little.
<<The open-loop or “gravity” drain is just that, it relies on gravity and the
weight of the water to make passage through the plumbing. Air entrapment,
turbulence, bends, et al, severely hamper and restrict the flow rate on a
gravity drain system…though much of this can be alleviated by using
large-diameter (1.5” and greater) plumbing and throughputs. On a closed-loop,
the water is “pumped or drawn” in to the plumbing by the direct connection to
the pump volute. The “power assist” so to speak, enables the water to flow much
more smoothly and efficiently through the plumbing enabling a much smaller
diameter throughput to flow at a much higher rate than a gravity system.
Essentially, merely matching the plumbing and bulkhead to the size of the input
on the pump is sufficient to meet the flow demands of that pump>>
I will look into upping the total flow for the tank.
<<Okay>>
I am hesitant to go with 20 times volume as I have seen my Euphyllia unhappy
when they get too much flow.
<<A good point...and improper “application” of the flow can cause damage to this
fleshy coral from moving/abrading against its sharp skeleton. Still…I think you
can apply more flow if cautious in your placement of these animals>>
I have to be careful with the setup in my existing 225 gallon tank to insure
that they are somewhat sheltered.
<<Yes>>
Of course it is easier to dial back flow than to increase it.
<<Indeed>>
The setup you describe on the Tunzes is exactly how they are set up in the
existing tank. Since they are not on full force, let’s say I am getting around
2500 gph out of the Tunzes. I could increase the flow through the open-loop. As
you rightly point out, the 2" bulkheads certainly support it.
<<Yes>>
What if I used the top row of bulkheads as the prior owner did, with the 2" for
outlet to the sump and the 1" as returns.
<<A quick word here… Even if you upsize to a 1200gph pump, you only “need” one
of those 1” returns. You can certainly use more, but the flow strength from
multiple returns will be quite meager. Another option and one which I employ on
my own system is to use multiple “return pumps.” With your 2” drains, a pair of
Eheim 1262s would not be a problem at all. This would give you a combined flow
rate of 1800gph before headloss, and the redundancy would make your system all
the more secure in the event of a pump failure (do also try to put the pumps on
different circuits or at least different GFCI outlets)>>
That leaves five 1" bulkheads near the bottom to play with. I could use one as
an input to a Sequence Dart and return the water to the other four via an Oceans
Motions 4 way.
<<I like this but for the match-up of the 1” bulkhead and the chosen pump. The
Sequence Dart “has a 2” intake” for a reason. I really think the 1” bulkhead
would starve this pump of water and create a micro-bubble nightmare for you. You
could use one of the 2” throughputs to feed the pump…though you may have to
supplement the remaining 2” drain with one or two of the 1” bulkheads if you do
this, depending on the size of the sump return pump(s) you choose>>
Or, I could do two separate closed-loops, running each with a Dart.
<<True, though you would need t use both 2” throughputs here…and turn to the 1”
throughputs to feed the sump thus limiting your pump choices there>>
Since the Darts are rated at around 3500 gallons per hour, how much actual flow
would I get in those scenarios?
<<The closed-loops will give you pretty close to the rated flow capacity of the
pumps as long as you match your plumbing to the inputs “and” outputs of the pump
volute (note that the output port on the Dart is 1.5”). Reducing either will
effect the flow rate, while reducing the intake diameter may well create more
severe issues. Perhaps a bit more exploring of pumps/options/configurations? Be
chatting, Eric Russell>>
Query Marine Setup, 7/20/08
Hi
<Hello>
I have a 150 litre salt water tank running with:
1 Clown Fish;
Yellow Tang;
<Needs a bigger tank.>
10 kilos live rock;
2 Banded Shrimp;
2 Anemones;
2 soft corals;
<May have problems with allelopathy combining corals and anemones in this sized
tank.>
1 Red Stripped Sand-sifting Gobi; and
1 Valentino Puffer.
I am running the system with the following:
Berlin Air Lift 90 Gallon Skimmer;
Deep Sand Bed Filter;
Wet and Dry Trickle Filter;
Refugium (with live rock, sand and Caulerpa).
I am currently running the system in this order, I was wondering if this is the
best and most effective order to run it in?
<Should be fine.>
Also, can you recommend, or is my current skimmer the best for my system?
<Generally with skimmers you get what you pay for, see here for more on the more
common models,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm .>
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers!
Shaun
<Chris>
Upgrading to 120g tank, reef set-up
– 07/16/08
Hello all...I am fairly new, since February, and have learned a lot
since I got the fever. Thank you very much for being a big part of the
learning experience.
<A pleasure to share>
I have a 75 gallon mixed reef tank with about 80 pounds of live rock,
two Koralia 2 pumps, and Sea Clone, ( I know, now)
skimmer. The LFS gave me direction and when I looked around, this is the
way they were setup and they have Sea Clones on everything.
<Good that they use what they promote... Are these modified?>
This is also the only skimmer they sell.
<Mmm, I would not do this though>
I was running compact fluorescents and have just upgraded to T5, HO
lights. Early on, I was told that I had everything I needed to keep the
reef alive and thriving.
I have as livestock, a Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown, 4 Blue-Green Chromis,
Purple Fire fish, 6 Blue Spot sand sifting Goby,
<Six of these?>
male and female Anthias
(not sure what type... male is pink/purple and female is orange/pink),
<A few possibilities here>
1 Cleaner Shrimp and a few snails and red legged hermits.
The rest are, Green Open Brain, Rose BTA, Small Sebae,
<Mmm... these anemones are getting along... and with the other
Cnidarians...>
various Zoanthids
Frags, Xenia Frag, Favia Frag, Candy Coral Frag, a couple hammer frags
and a purple Ricordea frag and a few mushroom Frags.
Some of these I had purchased and some I have inherited from a neighbor
that had to move. This is why I am upgrading to the 120.
My plan for the 120 is: The standard? 120 tank, 48" X 24" x 24" with
stand. It is "reef Ready"
<See WWM re this term... most such tanks are not adequately drilled>
and I will be installing a DIY sump/refugium that I will be making out
of a 30 gallon long tank and Plexiglas using silicone as the sealant.
<Mmm, Silastic does not adhere well to Plexiglas... if these are
through-put fittings, I'd go with gaskets, threadings...>
I will be using the same T5 lighting, 2 Blue Actinic, 3 White and one
Purple, or at least this is what I received when getting the light. I
will be purchasing an Aqua medic Turboflotor 1000 and OR 2700 Pump for
the sump, and a return pump. I will be upgrading my heater to a higher
grade as well.
I plan on going to 2 Koralia 4 units for the bigger tank, but I thought
I read somewhere that with the sump and refugium, the pump heads may not
be necessary.
<Good to have more circulation, redundancy... I would add>
I can't find that article any more, so I'm not sure if I read it
correctly or not.
I will be adding more live rock and live sand into the new tank.
I think I have hit all the bases for the background. The questions I am
having are:
Should the 30G tank be big enough for the sump/fuge?
<The bigger the better...>
Will the T1000 Skimmer be adequate for the tank or should the footprint
(7.25" X 16") be smaller for this sump?
<S/b fine... I would choose an AquaC, EuroReef or RK2 unit myself...>
Are the power heads necessary when using a sump?
<See above. Of use>
When transferring everything to the new 120g tank, do I need to let
everything cycle again before adding the existing livestock, or is this
basically doing a major water change?
<More this latter>
And finally, is there anything listed that won't work, something I am
forgetting or something I should change?
<Heeeee! Naught that "jumps out">
Thanks in advance for all the help.
Patrick
<Thank you for sharing Patrick. Bob Fenner>
Re: Upgrading to 120g tank – 07/16/08
Bob,
<Patrick>
Thanks for getting back to me. I also sent an email about the same thing
from my Hotmail account. I saw some response in researching that
some emails may have been sent to spam heaven,
<Heeeee... Or spam h, e, double hockey sticks!>
so I thought I would be double sure. Hope it doesn't get too annoying.
<Hopefully>
Clarifications: The blue dot Goby is only one, but it had six blue dots
on it's face, so I thought maybe it was more correct.
<I see. Thank you for this clarification>
The two anemones seem to be doing fine together...
<Can indeed "learn" to get along... in "propitious circumstances">
They are at opposite sides of the tank.
Is it possible to keep them in the same tank, or should I possibly think
of getting rid of one?
<If they're staying put so to speak, all else (esp. stinging-celled
life) apparently co-existing... I would not be overly concerned>
I was reading a little about the "Reef Ready" tanks, but I may have
missed the drilling part. Will look into that again before it's too
late.
<Good... do use the left shared border link to "Ask WWM... a question"
to view the cached view with these words>
The sump design I guess calls for glass baffles instead of Plexiglas. I
thought plexi would be easier to work with, but, I am finding out that
"beneficial" isn't always "easier"
<Ah yes... 'tis so>
Looks like the K4 Pump heads stay, which I think was going to happen any
way. In the second email I sent, I mentioned a few skimmers that I was
going to choose from and would still like your opinion.
<Oh, sorry... did not read thoroughly... Do you re-mention all here?
Elsewise I can resurrect the second (thought duplicitous) email>
The T1000, ASM G-2, MSX Octopus 160 or the Aqua C EV-180.
<The last is superior hands down. Other good choices are makes by RK2
and EuroReef>
Looks like you have mentioned the Aqua C. With the other choices I have
mentioned, would I be going wrong with any of them? Price is a concern
but not a deciding factor.
<I understand... in very short time, the difference in initial cost is
greatly overshadowed by inefficiency costs in poorly designed,
engineered, constructed products in this category of aquarium gear. Am
sure you understand this>
Thanks for all the information, everywhere about everything. Hope all is
well with you and yours as well as the rest of the crew.
Take care and Happy Diving,
Patrick
<Thank you my/our friend. As a matter of fact, have just come back out
to HI... to visit, dive with new, old cohorts... Cheers! BobF>
Re: Upgrading to 120g tank
7/17/2008
Thanks again. The info is much appreciated and priceless. I'll be
looking for the Aqua C EV-180, hopefully at a local establishment.
<A worthwhile investment, I assure you. As a matter of note, the folks
at MarineDepot (.com) are the exclusive distributor...>
It's been a long time since I was stationed in HI, and I wish I had the
interest then as I do now. Looking forward to going back one of these
days just for the snorkeling. Who knows, I may even take up scuba by
then.
Take care, Friend.
Patrick J. O'Curran
<I do hope we meet... above and below water. Cheers, BobF>
|
55 Gallon Flat Back Hex Lighting Question,
Reef set-up 6/26/08
Hello!
<William>
I just recently went to a club meeting at which Bob Fenner spoke for a few hours
and I must say that I learned a great deal J.
<Me too>
My question relates to a new tank that I am setting up. I purchased a 55 gallon
acrylic flat back hex tank (48 long x 20 tall x 16 deep) used from a LFS used
this summer (darn being a poor college student).
<Richer than I was!>
It came with a Marineland Canister Filter, Coralife 4x64W PC light, stand, and a
10 inch tall canopy. I recently purchased a Pacific Coast Imports RPS-1000
skimmer to go with a sump/refugium that I am putting together to go underneath
the tank. The plan is to be patient and set up the tank when I go back to school
in early August so I am gathering all the pieces for the tank before I go.
<Good>
Currently I have a 37gallon tank (30 long x 24tall x 12 deep) with about 50
pounds of live rock. I am running a Koralia nano, Koralia 2, and a powerhead
from Petco for water flow. I am using a BAKPAK 2 skimmer hanging on the back of
the tank. Also a 250w/ 2x24w T5's combination light by Sunlight Supply
(Maristar). The tank has been running for around 10 months and going strong. I
have two percula clowns, a mandarin, and a peppermint shrimp. There is also a
GBTA,
<Mmm... this may eat your Mandarin>
and a purple long tentacle anemone.
<And not a good idea to mix anemones! Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/CnidIndex2.htm>
A little bit of xenia, some Zoa's, a green/pink Yuma, and some sun coral (the
non light using kind, can't remember the name for it). The GBTA has been in the
tank for about 8 months and the long tentacle about 6 and a half months.
<Well... looks like they're getting along>
My question is that when I move the inhabitants to the new tank what would be
the best light for the new tank?
<Posted... for a two foot depth of watter... of this length system... two
smaller watt MHs of about 14K temp.>
The only thing that I would be adding to this tank is possibly a few more LPS
and maybe a Kole Tang.
(would also like to know if he will be unsuitable for a 55g as I will be keeping
this tank for sure for two more years at school). I am interested in something
along the lines of MH as that seems to be treating the anemone's well and that
is the main focus for the new tank the relationship between the Percula's and
anemone's. I am planning to have about a 3 inch sandbed in the new tank as the
long tentacle is buried very deeply in my 3-4 inch sandbed in the 37g tank. So I
am just wondering what would be the best wattage lighting for this tank as I
don't want to have too much on the tank, and I don't plan on having sps anytime
soon, the anemone just fascinate me too much to get away from.
Thank you so much in advance I seem to have run into a wall on this one.
~Will Bowen
<And here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the tray at bottom. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Reef Tank Temperature, Livestock, and General
Advice – 06/20/08
I have a 55 gallon reef I retrofitted w- 325 watts of Coralife compact
fluorescent ½ 10K & ½ Actinic (sufficient for corals below)
<<Mmm, is debatable…I prefer to see a 70-30 mix of 10K to Actinic lighting…a
50-50 mix may look nice, but it is not as “useful” to the photosynthetic
organisms>>
under a hood w- a rear opening. I have 2 cooling fans salvaged (so not sure the
CFM) from an old PC, one @ each end, one inlet & one exhaust.
<<A useful employment>>
The temperature consistently stays @ 82 degrees.
<<This is not “terrible” in my opinion>>
Prior to adding the fans it spiked to 86 & I lost 2 clown fish.
<<Hmm, would have expected this to be more of a problem to your corals than your
fishes…perhaps there are/were other aggravating circumstances>>
My question is can I get away w- the 82 degrees since there is not a swing in
temperature?
<<It is my opinion that, yes, you can. This may not be an “ideal” temperature as
touted by many…but it is certainly “survivable” in my experience…and maybe even
more “natural,” if you’ve ever heard/read Dr. Ron Shimek. As far as temperature
goes, I’ve been diving off the Big Island of Hawai’i a few times now (and
talking/thinking about it…getting the urge to go again!) and the water
temperature was during those visits was 82F…and not just at the surface but down
to about a 100ft depth. I would also like to add that my own reef system often
sees temperatures of up to 85F (with no mortalities re) during the hot summer
months here in SC>>
It seems to be pushing the limits I see published for acceptable range but I
have also read in more than one source that the swing is more important than the
actual temperature.
<<That too is debated by some, but having to take unknown factors/possible
aggravating circumstances in to consideration would deem some measure of
stability to be a good thing. In other words…for captive systems, it may be best
to keep the “straws” that could break the camel’s back to a minimum>>
How much affect does ambient air temperature actually have?
<<It does have an effect…but the heat producing devices of the system (pumps,
lights, etc.) are generally an overriding factor>>
We keep the house @ about 76-78 degrees but I could possibly add a window unit
in this room (assuming I can ever get the window unstuck).
<<You would likely need to keep the room uncomfortably cool to have much effect
here. But adding more/more powerful fans to step up evaporative cooling is
certainly an option…I would put one over your sump as well>>
Filtration & Flow:
50 pounds live rock w- 1" sand bed
Wet / Dry w- filter pad & Seachem Purigen & PhosGuard & charcoal (plan to
replace PhosGuard & charcoal w- Seachem's SeaGel)
Could I put the media in the overflow or should they stay where the bio balls
would go? No bio balls.
<<I would keep this where you have it. I am not a fan of placing items
within/restricting overflows>>
Excalibur SV1 skimmer in sump
600 GPH return
2 600 GPH Koralia 2 in opposite top corners
1 600 GPH power head next to overflow behind the rock ¾ of way down tank. The
overflow is off-center @ about 1/3 of the tank length.
Is the above sufficient when compared w- the info above & below?
<<Livestock incompatibilities aside…yes>>
Inhabitants as follows:
2 Peppermint Shrimp
2 False Perc's
1 Brittle Star
6 Red Leg Hermits
20ish Astrea (increase)
Green Sinularia
Xenia
Finger Leather (Lobophytum)
Green Stripe Mushroom (Actinodiscus)
Bubble Coral (Plerogyra sinuosa)
Ruffled Ridge (Turbinaria)
Candy Cane (Caulastrea)
Green Star Polyp (Briareum)
Pink Tip Anemone (Condylactis, (passiflora or gigantea not sure))
<<Mmm…trouble waiting…in this mix of sessile inverts>>
Mistake w- the anemone? It is new.
<<In my opinion…yes. This tank is too small and likely too densely populated for
such an animal. I predict problems one way or the other>>
Water parameters:
Salinity 1.023 (should I raise slightly?)
<<Yes…closer to NSW levels of 1.025/1.026>>
Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite consistently 0
Calcium 420
Carbonate Hardness KH 8
PH 8.2-8.3
Would like to add to tank:
1 Six Line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)
<<Can be a terror in this relatively small system…even if added last>>
1 Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus)
<<Again…the size of the tank may preclude this fish getting enough to eat/being
able to meet its nutritional requirements>>
1 Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto)
<<An excellent choice for this size system>>
2 Kaudern's Cardinal's (Pterapogon kauderni)
Would the additional livestock on the wish list be too much for this tank & do
you see any compatibility issues?
<<You don’t list any “current” piscine livestock…if that is the case then no,
not “too” much…otherwise, compatibility issues are already noted>>
I think I may have done too much to fast but have had no major problems as of
yet. Would definitely like your opinion of the overall system & any advice on
changes that may need to be made.
<<Your “mechanicals” seem fine, though “I” would likely upgrade the skimmer to a
suitable Euro-Reef or AquaC model. And you have my thoughts on your livestock as
well>>
Thanks for all you do, your site has been my best source of information.
<<Is quite the collective effort…we are pleased you have found it to be of
benefit. Regards, EricR>>
Reef Tank Temperature, Livestock,
and General Advice – 06/22/08
Thank you so much for the detailed & informative reply,
<<Quite welcome>>
you guys are the best!
<<Thank you…talented and knowledgeable ladies here too>>
The lights that caused the spike were added in advance of all corals
except for the 1 Turbinaria & 1 Actinodiscus that came with the tank.
<<Okay>>
I feel much better knowing someone with your depth of experience is
successful at these temperatures.
<<Mmm, yes…well…no room for error at these extremes (85F/86F)…But I
think your tank’s current temperature of 82F is quite manageable>>
I will definitely add an additional fan over for the sump though.
<<Will help>>
As far as current fish there are the 2 False Perc's that is all.
<<I see>>
Was the anemone the only "problem child" you saw in my invert mix?
<<You have a popular “garden variety” mix of organisms which are
problematic if not managed well…but yes, the anemone is the real
“problem child” there>>
For the Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus) would it be acceptable to
supplement feeding with an algae clip?
<<These fish sometimes just don’t take to prepared foods…might be best
to culture algae on some live rock in a separate container and “swap
out” as needed
Funny you mention the 6 Line as a terror,
<<Have seen such in almost all instances…even in large (300g+) tanks>>
just two days ago at one of our LFS's they had a Gramma loreto &
Pseudocheilinus hexataenia in the same tank & the Gramma appeared to be
the bully!
<<Gramma loreto can be pugnacious…and differing circumstances/conditions
govern behavior…but this situation would likely reverse with time as the
Pseudocheilinus acclimates/matures>>
I will keep my eyes on Craig’s list for a more suitable skimmer.
<<Excellent>>
Have a great weekend (maybe a trip to Hawaii?)
<<Ahh, if only it were that easy! [grin]…but perhaps a trip in the not
too distant future>>
Thanks
<<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>
(I just so happen to have one of my 5 Coralife's dead center that is a
50/50 so I can replace that with the 10K & get to a 60/40)
<<Real good…is a more “useful” mix. EricR>>
|
Custom 85 Gallon, reef set-up/stkg.
6/19/08
First of all thank you for the informative articles and information posted on
your web-site.
I have been running FO and reef tanks for two years now and test my water
parameters at least weekly. The only issues I ever have are phosphate levels.
I just purchased a 36 x 18 x 30 custom tank from my local aquarium specialist.
This tank will used for fish and coral.
I plan on purchasing a refugium, fluidized sand bed filter, 9 watt Turbo Twist
UV Sterilizer and Fission skimmer.
My fish bio-load will be minimal (5-6 fish). Lighting will consist of one 150
watt 14K metal halide and one 150 watt 20K metal halide.
I will have a 50/50 mixture of lace rock and live rock. I guess my question is
does this set-up look sufficient enough?
<Mmm... yes...>
I do a 10% water change weekly.
Feeding consist of brine, mysis shrimp and romaine lettuce
<Mmmm, not this>
for my Yellow Tang.
Any information will be greatly appreciated.
Nick
<I do like the shape of this volume... Do write back with specifics (e.g.
species you'd like to use) if you'd like. Bob Fenner>
Custom 85 Gallon, Cnid. sel, reading
6/22/08
Back to you WWC...
<?>
I have looked at some of the compatibility issues surrounding corals and
was amazed...
<Me too>
My goal with the new tank is to have a few large <no frags> pieces that
will live together in harmony.
<Ok>
We like leather corals, Blastos, zoanthids, Kenya trees, etc... What
would be a good mixture that will last long term?
<... for you to read further. B> |
Re: Filter feeder setup
6/13/08
Filter feeder setup... GARF non-substrate grunge
Hi crew,
<Sal... my bro-in-laws name...>
I am going to setup up a filter feeder tank and ive been doing considerable
research. Im sure this will come as no surprise to you, but the more i read the
more confused i get. I am hoping to keep the non photosynthetic gorgonians in
this set up. I called the people over at GARF since they have a proven track
record at keeping these guys. They are big fans of their GARF grunge.
<Mmmm... is "just some old guy in the back with dead live rock and a hammer..."
This quote from a prev. employee there>
They think that i should use this as the substrate for both my tank and
refugium. My only issue with this is that there are some rather large pieces of
rubble, shell etc. Will this not become a nutrient trap?
<Yes>
Is this substrate supposed to be used for a plenum system only ( i don't want a
plenum). Should i install a 4" DSB with sugar fine aragonite and then add 1" of
GARF grunge over this in both the tank and refugium?
<I'd skip this sham completely... leave out the "grunge">
Should i go with the oolitic sand in the main tank only and grunge in the
refugium only?
<Just the sand everywhere>
If so what depth? I am not going to have a skimmer on this tank because this
will be a filter feeder tank. Please let me know what u think. Im trying to do
my own research but it seems experience is much more important. thanks for all
your help.
Peace,
Sal
<And you, Bob Fenner>
Re: Filter feeder setup
6/13/08
Bob,
You’re bro in law must be one cool cat. Thanks for the recommendation. I will be
going oolitic sand throughout. One last ? If u don’t mind. Do u agree with the
lack of a protein skimmer in this tank?
Peace,
Sal
<Mmm, no... I would run a good skimmer, if not continuously, then on a regular
punctuated basis... a few hours every day. B>
| |
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