Tank Rebuilding   2/3/07
Hey again,
I'm not sure I quite understand the concept of the SeaSwirl..
<Ah... yes>
is it a pump in itself or do I have to connect it (if so, how?)
<The latter... Please read here: http://www.sea-swirl.com/>
to the return from the built in overflow..? Another option for me is to use a Tunze Turbelle stream kit 6100 + a single controller, and maybe one other small powerhead in the
back of the tank.
<This is a vastly superior arrangement>
Another question, do you have any idea of how I might convert a Wet/Dry w/ a skimmer and return pump in it, into a refugium?
<Yes>
I am going to have to raise the water level in the wet dry almost to the top correct?
<Or perhaps build/install a baffle to raise the water level in a section... likely the "front" area where water comes first>
and I am going to replace my skimmer with a Aqua C hang on tank version, but I am not sure what to do about the return pump, can it sit on the sand or mud in the refugium or would i have to raise it on something?
<Best to read on WWM re... there are other issues you are not likely (apparently) aware of... that are also covered there>
Next, as you might be able to tell I am pretty much redoing my tank and going full blown reef style for the first time. You have heard about the circulation, the filtration, now the lighting,
(https://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=15486&prodid=30699&catid=3)
this is the fixture I am considering, however I have heard that Halides can cause excessive heat to enter the aquarium if not raised high enough.. since my ceiling cannot hold a hanging fixture, can you tell if this fixture is one that I connect to the tank? or is it also of the hanging variety?
<Does connect, set on the tanks edges... as shown>
If it does connect to the tank will it be far enough away from the water that it wont cause too much heat?
<Mmm, likely will be fine...>
This whole renovation process has been quite mind boggling...
<The planning, anticipation can/should be a good deal of fun...>
and I haven't even started! Yes, one more question I will not have the room for a calcium reactor so I will have to add trace elements manually.. which brand do you recommend?
<Mmm, posted... am a big fan of Bob Stark's B-Ionic for beginners as yourself>
and will additives be necessary if I maintain 10% weekly water changes with Reef Crystals?
<Mmm, not at first likely...>
Thank you so much,
Christian
(75 gallon tank w/ 440 watts VHO lighting 2 wt 2 bl,80 lbs LR and <1" LS
SeaLife Systems Skimmer (one getting replaced))
<I strongly encourage you to read a good deal more before making the purchases listed... So you have a much better idea, "comfort level" with your choices... AND to join, participate in a marine/reef hobby club in your area (a great deal of fun, input of use here...) and the chance of your picking up a local "guru"... Bob Fenner>

Set-up, stocking questions--a mixed bag   1/27/07
Hey hey.
<What do you say?>
I have a 60 gallon, rectangular, soon-to-be reef tank that's been up and running for 9 months.
<Welcome to the reef my friend.>
I've asked you all a few questions before (to much benefit) and now I think I'll try to get all the rest of them out of the way at once.
<Alrightly>
So...After many hours of tinkering, upgrading, and hundreds of hours of research (mostly on WWM), I'm almost satisfied with my set-up.
<Very good!  Key word there being almost... if you make it to satisfaction, I hope your time there is longer than the 10 minutes that most reef aquarists experience.>  
My tank has a built-in overflow with bio-balls and a sponge filter inside, with a 1-inch bulkhead return to my 20-gallon sump. My return pump is a Rio 2500, which I am replacing with a Rio 10HF. This will increase the flow from ~330gph to ~510 gph (at 6ft of head). Do you think this will be too much?
<Will have to watch, a 1 inch bulkhead should handle around 600 gallons per hour.>
I'm concerned about the adequacy of my drain and the turnover in the sump/refugium (see below).
<Understandable.>
I also have two Maxijet 1200 powerheads in my display, a 1 to 1.5 inch live sand bed, and tons of live rock, maybe 80 to 100 pounds.
It is lit with Coralife 260W (total) PC 10K and actinics. This fixture is mounted in my canopy. Coralife states the light is only to be used over covered aquariums. Mine is covered at the moment, but when summer rolls around it might get pretty warm. I have a small fan in the canopy (which has an open back) and can put a fan over the sump, but if heat is still an issue do you think it'd be okay to drill a bunch of small holes in the tank covers for more ventilation?
<I would think this would be OK.>
Moving on. I made the sump into a refugium, in the sense that I added Chaetomorpha, an 18W PC light, and live rock. The Chaetomorpha is doing great (despite the relative low light), and my nitrates are always below 5ppm. I just added a culture of live copepods into it, also. There's not too much room in there for much substrate due to the equipment (there's also a skimmer in there), but I've read that copepods prefer it. I think I could put about an inch in there (maybe in a casserole dish?), if it'd be worthwhile.
<A possibility.>
Another concern I have is that the copepods will get filtered out by the skimmer, which has a sponge filter on the outlet to reduce bubbles. I've heard many people prefer no mechanical filtration, or bio-balls for that matter. Would you take out the bio-balls (over a period of weeks) and/or the sponges?
<You could if you find your Nitrates are increasing.  I think I would lose the bioballs immediately, may be worth trying to keep the sponge just as a physical barrier for the microfauna.>
My fishes at the moment are an ocellaris clown, a royal Gramma, a yellow-streak fairy wrasse (C. luteovittatus), and a neon goby. I'm thinking of adding 3 chromis and later down the road--here it comes--a mandarin or Rainford's Goby.
<Please allow your tank to establish itself for several months and build up a large supply of microfauna before attempting either of these fish.  In general the Rainford's Goby (Amblygobius rainfordi) is a better choice.>
I know they are difficult, so if you recommend against it I will probably go with a flame angel or coral beauty instead.
<Would be a better choice as long as you re aware of the risk of these angels nipping at your corals.>
My Gramma is very shy, and I'm hoping that the Chromis will make him more comfortable about coming out of the rockwork.  
<May, may not.>
As for invertebrates, I'm thinking a Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp, a Fromia Star, a Hawaiian feather duster, pulsing xenia, Green Star Polyps, a leather coral, and torch or frogspawn. I'll do more research on the exact species before I buy, and will make sure to keep plenty of space between them. What do you think of the plan, in general?
<Fromia is a poor choice.  I would not add this.  It is doomed to starvation.>
Okay, one last thing. I just set up a 10-gallon quarantine tank and put it's sponge filter in my sump to grow bacteria. I'll add 75% tank water and 25% new water.  How long do you think it'll take to cycle?  
<Mmm, not sure, seeding the sponge will help, but you should monitor your levels with a test kit.>
Sorry to bombard you with questions, I guess I'm a bit of a perfectionist.
<As are many others.>
Thanks again for all your help.
<Welcome!  -Mich>
Scott

Re: Ich, Low pH, Low Calcium, Possibly Elevated Magnesium... reef filtr.     1/21/07
Mich, Now that I have the protein skimmer up and running what should I do next?...live rock or new filter?
<Definitely live rock.>
What kind of filter would you recommend?  From what I've read wet/dry is the way to go. any particular brand or set up?  I've been on the Dr Fosters website trying to get a better idea of what they are and how they work.  Again, don't really want to rely on the LFS around here.  
<Wise to not rely on LFS, better to rely on yourself.  Please do some reading on this topic.  Wet/dry will produce measurable nitrate levels.  Here are some suggested readings for you to start with:  
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reeffilt.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reef1.htm
Thanks!! Jennifer
<Welcome,  -Mich>

Re: Ich, Low pH, Low Calcium, Possibly Elevated Magnesium... skimmer f'    1/21/07
Thanks for all of you help Mich!!!  
<Hi Jennifer, You're welcome!>
Got the protein skimmer up and running and I know it's supposed to have a 24-48 hr break in but within 3 hrs I have dirty water in the bottom of the skimmer.. YIKES!!
<Yep, not surprising.>
I hope that's a good thing!  Jennifer
<Just like Martha, It's a good thing...  -Mich>

Message for Crew Member Chuck Rambo - "I Got a new tank for Christmas"   1/12/06
<That soils engineer type told me he put this in my in-folder because it is "marine"...>
I saw your message to Bob about the lack of emails from newbies that received new tanks for Christmas.  Well, "I got a new tank for Christmas" and we're all newbies in one way or another.
<Oh yes>
I am going from a 65 gallon reef to a 75 gallon reef. While the new tank is only 10 gallons, the extra foot in length should make for a much nicer setup.  99% of my questions I can answer by reading the daily FAQs and researching the archives, but when I saw your message to Bob, I figured I would run a few things by you since I am working on a new setup.
Here's what I plan to do.... Suggestions and criticism are welcome.
- 75 Gallon "reef ready" glass aquarium with stand and canopy.
<Mmm, do take a read on WWM, elsewhere re the fitting/plumbing of such reef not-so ready set-ups... Companies have improved the number and size of through-puts, but...>
- 440 watts of VHO with 2 Actinic white and 2 Super Actinic bulbs. 3 moonlights controlled by a Lunar Tracker.
<Okay... but I'd likely switch out some of the actinic for more white... more functional and aesthetic IMO>
- 30ish (30X16X18) gallon sump/refugium with ASM G-1X skimmer and Mag 18 return pump
- Tunze TS07 kit with one 6000 power head and one controller (on order)
- 90 to 130 pounds of live rock depending on how much makes it look aesthetically pleasing and still be functional.  80 pounds are in current reef and 50 pounds are curing.
- Shallow sand bed in display and Miracle mud and Chaeto in sump.
- Red Sea 100mg ozonizer and ORP controller
- Two 250 watt heaters
I realize that everyone has an opinion but I welcome yours, Bob's, Salty Dog's, Eric's, Sabrina', Justin's, and any other crew members that care to offer one.  The more ideas/opinions/suggestions one has, the better the decisions one can make.
<Agreed>
I currently have 5 fish - 2 black Perculas, 1 Carpenter Fairy Wrasse, 1 Court Jester Goby, and 1 Bicolor Blenny.
Corals are LPS and some softies but I would like to try some SPS like Montipora if possible.
Here are the areas where I appreciate your opinions.
Circulation - I had originally planned a closed loop system with a Mag 24 sump return pump feeding the loop.  However, the quote/unquote "Mega Flow" portion of my quote/unquote "reef ready" aquarium will only handle 700 gph,
<Yes... if that>
or so the propaganda that was attached to the aquarium claims. I went ahead and plumbed a 1/2 inch PVC loop with four 1/2 outlets that should be able to produce approximately 200 gph from each nozzle with a Mag 18 after losses.
<Sounds about right>
According to what I have read on this site, this will not be enough to produce the random, turbulent flow I need.
<Mmm, no, not by itself>
I am leaving it in place because it will at least disperse the sump return water more evenly and I ordered the 1850gph Tunze kit to augment the flow.  Do you think this set up will be sufficient to allow me to tweak and manipulate the flow to meet the needs of Montis?
<Yes, likely so>
Also, can you suggest how you would position the Tunze to get the results needed.
<Something of this power... flow rate... by itself... needs to be mounted up near the surface, on the side, facing toward the other end... as you will find... surprisingly forceful...>
Refugium - I am currently using Carib Sea Miracle Mud at about a 1.5 inch depth in my refugium.  I have been using this for about 3 months and the main thing that I have noticed is that my skimmate doesn't smell nearly as bad as it did when I employed a DSB in the refugium.  Also, all the corals look as good or better.  So I plan to continue with the Miracle Mud approach.   I have read on this site about mixing and layering the mud and sand.  The mud has some very fine particles and could use some sand on top to keep it in place.  Will a layer of sand on top of the mud significantly inhibit or slow the release of the trace elements from the mud?
<Mmm, not much, enough to be concerned if there is sufficient mud period>
Can a DSB go on top of the mud and the benefits of both be realized?
<Mmm, better to make two separate areas here>
If so, what are your recommendations for the desired depth of each?
<Posted on WWM. http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm
scroll down...>
This website and the dedication of hobbyists like you and the rest of the crew are a godsend.  You willingly devote your time and efforts to share knowledge and experience in an effort to help others get the most enjoyment out of this hobby.
<Yep>
"If I had only known then what I know now", I WOULD have tested my water, I WOULD have done water changes, I would NOT have mixed incompatible species together only to watch them stress each other until one died, I would NOT have spent $30 on a blood red fire shrimp that only lasted 30 seconds because I also had a Huma Picasso Triggerfish in the little 65 gallon,
<Snack time!>
I would NOT have lost $390 dollars worth of fish because I didn't quarantine and introduced velvet into my tank, and so on and so on. I learn something new from this site every day and have had pretty good success for the past 3 years because of it.
<And this scant knowledge and inspiration coupled with your intelligence and application...>
  I am trying to forget the years preceding my finding this site.
Thanks for everything.  I promote this site at every opportunity.
P.S.  I hope my grammar will past inspection with a minimal amount of editing on your part.
<Heeeee! Better than mine! Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Conversion...FO To Reef 12/27/06
G'day Crew!
<So far, so good, Dan.>
I'm currently in the process of converting a FO aquarium to one that can hold some soft corals such as corallimorphs, zoanthids and some leather corals, as well as a bubble tip anemone.
<Not a good idea mixing corals with anemones.>
My tank specifications are below
It's an AquaOne120 (280 L capacity) that includes an inbuilt filter/lighting system. The filter sits on top of the aquarium and contains filter wool, mesh and ceramic noodles. I have two full spectrum fluorescents and one 10000K Actinic (all 30W). I also have a hang-on Jebo120 Protein Skimmer that I have modified the tank to accommodate. Currently my tank holds:
20 kg live rock( I plan on slowly adding more)
1 Flame Angel
1 Pinstripe Wrasse
<Is known to eat certain types of snails, tubeworms, etc, and requires a tight fitting lid as it is a jumper.>
1 Valentini puffer
<This guy will eat invertebrates such as found in reef tanks (shrimp, crabs, etc), and is semi-aggressive toward other fish, often
taking bites out of their fins.>
2 Saddleback Clownfish
4 Green Chromis
Some Corallimorphs, Zoanthids, a head of Duncanopsammia axifuga containing about 20 polyps, and three bubble tip anemones (I had a large one that recently divided - I am going to sell two of them).
Water stats read Ammonia = 0, Nitrite = 0 and Nitrate = 20 ppm and everything is running well as I do a lot of maintenance on it.
I have a couple of questions.
Firstly, since I am upgrading my system to take some more corals I am going to invest in a new filter. I have discussed this with the guys at my LFS and am leaning towards purchasing a 1200 L/hr canister filter. I will keep the older filter running too but replace its media with bio-balls. I know this is an unconventional configuration, but due to the nature of this aquarium I am really limited as to what I can do with it. I would like to add several more fish including a yellow tang, long-nosed hawkfish, midas blenny and maybe some PJ cardinalfish or a Comet Grouper (Marine Betta),
<The comet won't fit into this scenario, a predator which does not appreciate bright light such as you will need for your corals.  With your other
fish, the tang will grow too large for the size tank you have.  Need to make a choice here.>
as well as some more corals.
Do you think this is a workable configuration for what I'd like to achieve?
<Yes, with my exceptions.>
Would these stocking levels be too high?
<Yes, if you include all but the betta and puffer.>
And is my lighting going to be ok to sustain the corals I plan on keeping? (soft corals) Are there any species in particular you would recommend?
<Your 90 watts of lighting isn't going to do the trick.  For soft corals, you will need to be around 350+ watts.  You didn't mention the depth of
your tank, so an accurate wattage number cannot be given.>
Thanks in advance!
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Daniel

Re:  Conversion.. FO To Reef 1/9/07
Dear Crew,
<Dan>
Thanks for the reply to my last email (James)
<You're welcome, and sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner.  Too many things going on right now.>
I've been in consultation with my LFS about changing the lighting system on my tank. They seem to think that the 90W coming from my fluorescents should be sufficient to keep these soft corals if I change the bulbs regularly, say every 6 months. They tell me that the corals we get here (Australia) are largely collected from deep water.
<How deep is deep?  You didn't mention what types of corals so I assumed so hard corals would be included in your scenario.>
They seemed to think that 350W was a big overkill for keeping soft corals.
<Tis, if that is all one wants.>
One other option they did suggest was to install 4 x 55W power compacts, but that still only gives 220W - not quite the 350W you suggest. What do you think about this?
<Need more info on the corals you wish to keep.>
And one additional piece of information that you mentioned, my tank has a depth of 20inches.
<OK>
Also, you said that a yellow tang would outgrow my 280L (75 gal) system. >From my reading I was under the impression that yellow tangs are ok in tanks over 55 gal. I will also give the comet a miss, but FYI the valentini puffer is actually very well behaved and tends to mind his own business, I may have been lucky in getting a good one!
<You may have.  As for the tang, they can attain a length of up to 8" under aquarium conditions, to me, a little large for a four foot tank, but for must have aquarists, I wouldn't put one in a tank smaller than 55 gallons.  In short, these guys just do better in larger systems.>
Your advice is massively appreciated, you guys to a fantastic job with your website!
<Thank you.  James (Salty Dog)>
Daniel

Reef Set-up Qs 12/20/06
Good day everyone, (Hoping for an answer from Bob, Anthony or Steven)
<Good day to you Jeremy, Mich with you tonight.  I hope you're not too disappointed.>
I think I have finally confused myself to the point that I'm not sure what I'm doing any more and have no idea in which direction to proceed.
<Hehehe, yes, I have been there too.  Sounds like information overload to me.  Step away from the books, step away from the computer.  Slowly inhale, slowly exhale, repeat.>  
I've read several books and a great many of the articles and FAQ on WetWebMedia which I found very helpful and now I'm hoping for a little personalized advice.
<I shall try.>
I have kept reef aquariums for about 7 years and have kept a wide variety of corals and livestock.  
<OK>
I set up my initial tank with the advice of my LFS owner and have tried to educate myself with books and articles to fill in the gaps, but I have deviated from my initial setup very little.  
<OK>
I would have to say that my success thus far has been a combination of blind luck and good advice.
<As is often the case.>
After moving cross-country and selling off my tank I am at the point of contemplating setting up another reef system.  
<It's like a bad horror flick that just sucks you back in.>
I've spent about a month reading everything I can get my hands on, but all I've managed to do is completely confuse myself.
<Ah, yes information overload indeed.>
I have most enjoyed keeping LPS corals and mushrooms and polyps and xenia, I like the movement and the colors and the interesting shapes.  
<Yes, lots of beautiful creature fall into these categories.>
I also have always kept an anemone with either a single or mated pair of clowns.  I think I would like to set up a tank geared towards caring for this type of reef life.  
<OK>
Are any of the above not compatible in lighting or water condition requirements with each other?
<Mmm, with appropriate placement should be OK together.>
I want to set up a manageable reef tank. I've had 58gal, 110 gal, and175 gal tanks in the past and honestly the 175 was a bit much.  I'm thinking about a 135 gal that is 72Wx18Dx25T.Is there a problem with a tank that is only 18" deep?
<No, easier to setup/maintain in many ways.>
The tanks I've had in the past ran VHO lights on icecap ballasts and I ran an ecosystem mud filtration system, no skimmer, no refugium, no other filters. I am planning on running the ecosystem filter again, but based on the advise of your site will probably add a protein skimmer.
<I would highly recommend a protein skimmer.>
Anything else I should consider?  I assume that a deep sand bed is still not recommended with a mud system?
<Are you committed to the mud system?  I think a deep sand bed would be a better choice.>
How large should a refugium be for this size tank?
<I think bigger is better in this case.  I would try to get a sump that is as big as I could fit into the stand or what ever your limiting factor is.  I would dedicate a good portion of the sump to the refugium.>
My biggest confusion centers around lighting, lots has changed since I last set up a tank.  I gather that there are more efficient lighting systems than VHO on the market now.  
<VHO is still quite popular.>
Knowing what I want to keep, what type of lighting system would you recommend?  PC? Halide? HQI? T-5?   I want something that is going to provide as much lighting as needed, but not too much.  I'd also like something that is not going to break the bank each month with my electric bill.  I'd rather pay a little more up front to get reduced energy consumption.  I like the look of the Current Orbit lighting systems, but don't know which one would be the most appropriate or if there is a better solution. What would you use if you were me?
<All could be used.  This is really very much a personal choice.  Each lighting possibility/combination has benefits and draw backs.  This is something you really need to figure out for yourself.  Many things to consider.>  
My last concern is with setting up a species/region specific tank.  I have done the mixed garden type of setup in the past and I think it would be nice to set up a system more in keeping with a particular region and stocking fish and coral that would naturally be found in close proximity to each other.
<A good philosophy.>
My only problem is that I don't know enough to know what regions you would find LPS corals in and what fish would be found in the same locations. If you were setting up a tank that focused on LPS corals what region would you base it on and what would you stock it with? Corals? Fish? Inverts? Anemone?
<I think you might enjoy a book by John H. Tullock.  The book is titled Natural Reef Aquariums, simplified approaches to creating living saltwater microcosms. There are several chapters dedicated to setting up systems which reflect the wild reefs of various geographical areas.  I think you will find several corals of your liking in the chapter titled The Gulf of Mexico.>  
Sorry for the length of this e-mail, but I really appreciate any help you are able to provide...thanks...Jeremy
<I hope I have been of assistance.  -Mich>

New System In The Works!  - 12/06/06
First let me say thanks for establishing this forum for avid salt water enthusiasts.  I’d be remiss it I didn’t also offer a heartfelt thanks to the WWM team for their expert advice.
<And thank you for the kind words! Scott F. here tonight!>
I am a frequent visitor to your site.  I just purchased the Conscientious Marine Aquarist and can’t wait to read it.  I’ll be setting up a 180 gallon reef aquarium. It will house predominately stony corals, but I have minimal experience with them.  I had a 150 gallon reef tank 6 years ago (my how things change in a short period of time), but with the exception of a Hammer & Galaxea, it was stocked with soft corals.  Fish will consist of Anthias (unsure what type: recommendations?), a Scott’s Fairy Wrasse, Chromis or other dither fish that Anthias associate with (suggestions), 3 tangs: Powder Blue, Sohal, and Purple, a Blackcap or Dottyback, a pair of shrimp gobies/pistol shrimp, a pair of cleaner shrimp and later, a Mandarin & Tridacna clams.
<That's quite a big fish load! I'd cut the Tang choice to one of them- most likely, the Purple Tang. Tangs get quite large, need significant amounts of physical space (3 would need hundreds of gallons) and can be aggressive in tight quarters You'll be surprised how tight 180 gallons can e with 3 tangs!).>
I have a 180 gallon All-Glass stand (24” clearance
to tank) and I plan to set-up a 180 gallon acrylic aquarium.  I’ve read on your site that if I go acrylic, I’ll need to place plywood under the entire aquarium.  Is it possible to use additional plywood to “raise” the tank to accommodate an AquaC-240 skimmer without affecting the structural integrity of the stand?
<Well, I think what we're getting here is that you need to make sure that the tank is on a very level surface for long-term structural integrity.>
I’m also considering a Euro-Reef skimmer since these two are the models you prefer.  Based upon my desires, is the Euro-Reef worth the extra $?
<Yes, they really are. I've used a number of high end skimmers in my time, including Deltec, Tunze, and Euroreef. I must say how impressed that I am with my Euroreef! It's simple, well-built, and amazingly productive. Worth every penny, IMO.>
  Lighting will consist of 3 MH (2-175 & 1-250), & two blue actinics for aesthetics.  How high above the water level should the lights be mounted?
<I'd opt for 6 inches or so, myself.>
With the Scott's, should the tank be covered?
<You might want to cover the tank- they are jumpers. At the very least, you could use some eggcrate over the cutouts for protection.>
I will incorporate a Wave2K as well.  Would you recommend 1 center or 2?
<I'd start with one, as they are rather expensive, and you won't know your tank's water movement needs until the rockwork is set>
You’re a proponent of Calcium Reactors.  Should it be set up initially or can it be added later?
<Well, it would be nice to have it set from day one, but you can also use two part additives (like B-Ionic) or Kalkwasser until you assess your systems calcium needs.>
What do you think of U/V & Ozone?
<Both have their place, but I'd be more inclined to use ozone before UV; I think ti is more useful for most of us.>
I welcome your feedback on this set-up.  I want to do it right the first time and will invest the time, money & resources
necessary to prevent replacing inefficient equipment later.  You can’t put a price on having a piece of the ocean in your living room!!
<Amen to that! Don't skimp on your components. Get the best ones that you can and think about the long term. Get some feedback from other hobbyists, and make your choices based on the needs of your inhabitants.>
Thanks again and God Bless you this Christmas!
<You're quite welcome! And the very best to you and yours this holiday season! Regards, Scott F.>  

New Set-Up- New Questions!  11/01/06
Hey crew,
<Scott F. your Crew Member today!>
First off let me start by saying, "Thank you for a great resource on the net!" This place has been a great spot for all sorts of late night and bathroom reading.
<That's why laptop computers were invented! LOL>
I know my question has been answered in different ways and
different places but I want to make sure I am on the right track. I am setting up a new 55 Gallon reef tank. I have been out of the saltwater hobby due to grad school for a few years now. (A yellow tang buys a lot of Raman Noodles!).
<And peanut butter!>
I would like to keep corals and the works with this set-up. I used to run a 38 Gallon set up with only live rock, sand, and a skimmer for my filters. I just got passed a 55 Gallon tank for me to "play" with. It came with a Aqua Clear Aquatics Wet/Dry, another Red Sea Skimmer (I have two now), 75lbs of live sand, and two 48" PC (one 4 x 65W and one 2 x 65W). I also have a 20 Gallon I was going to hook up as a refugium.
<Sounds nice!>
First off let me start by telling you the "advice" I have gotten from my LFS and you tell me if this sounds off to you. Run the overflow from the 55G to the 20G refugium. Run a skimmer in the refugium with a heater. Use a pump to pump from the refugium to the Wet/dry. Use the bio-balls in the wet dry with a carbon filter under the ball but before the drip pan (seems kind of hard
to change the carbon that way), put the other skimmer in the sump of the wet dry, and maybe think about putting another heater in the sump before returning to "super clean" water back to the tank. I also might want to consider running a 36W UV set up in the refugium as well. Does something seem over kill here or is it just me?!?
<I'd dump the bioballs from the wet dry. I would also use the carbon "passively" in a media bag just kept in the sump where water can flow through it and you can easily access it.>
Second, I have read many different things about using a wet/dry. I have never used one before and am a bit weary of how they work. I just went and bought 2 gallons of bio balls but now am reading about how they are useless. Any thoughts?
<Well, not useless...They are actually really efficient. It's just that they tend to accumulate nitrate over time, which is sort of counterproductive in most reef systems.>
Third, Can you give me a clue as to a R/O system that I should be looking at. I am in the market because running to the LFS for water to change every week is a chore (plus you see what I have to deal with at my LFS as far as advice). Should I be looking at a 3 stage, 4 stage, 6 stage, or hiring a person from the South Pacific to bring me Fiji water?!?
<I have used a Kent "Maxxima" 3 stage RO/DI system for years with good results. Captive Purity and Spectra Pure are also nice systems
They also have come out with "Sea Water" taken from the ocean. This is new to me but at 4 gallons for $14 sound like a rip off. Any truth to the claims that it is the best things around since frozen brine shrimp?!?
<Well, it can be useful, but there are so many good brands of synthetic salt mixes out there that it seems more economical to buy a good RO/DI unit and a quality salt mix. Over time, this will be just fine, IMO.>
Fourth, (I know I have met my three question quota for the day but bear with me.) What are your thoughts on UV lights? My last saltwater set up got a plague of green hair algae before I took it down a few years ago. I fought that stuff for about a year before it finally got the better of me. I have read conflicting reports on if a UV set up works but I would also hate to deal with algae ever again.
<Well, algae is a reality; we have to live with some of it. Nutrient export (i.e.; water changes, use of chemical filtration media and overall good husbandry techniques) are the key to combating nuisance algae. UV has it's place, but I've never used it much and I would rather invest my money elsewhere.>
Ok that is about all I got for this session. Thank you so much for your help to all of us new (and starting out again) in the hobby.
Brandon Gray
<Best of luck to you, Brandon! Regards, Scott F.>