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Tank upgrade, reef?... Poor ideas/notions, not
reading 4/24/07 To Crew I have been reading over your
site, but I am not sure if I am on the right track. I hope you will
spare your time for some advice. I am upgrading my current 75 gallon
tank with heavy bio-load to a 150 gallon tank. My current 75 has: 2
canister filters, aqua c skimmer, shell substrate and some LR.
Occupants are a black volitans, porcupine puffer, majestic angel,
marine Betta, cardinal, maroon clown, Bannerfish, sailfin tang, ch.
chip starfish, black spike urchin and 3 tube anemones (separated as to
not sting each other). <Don't have to touch to toxify this
system, each other... See WWM re Cerianthus... is this the genus these
animals are?> My concerns regarding the 150 are: Use of a 1"
sand bed is more beneficial than shells, due to more organisms
inhibiting the sand. I am going to use regular aragonite sand and use 1
bag of "live" sand to seed the "non-live". The LR
will also be used, with the addition of more when the $$ allows.
Depending on the filtration, the skimmer can be placed in the filter
area. Due to the size of the tank, using the 2-3 watts per gallon rule,
can the heater be put in the filter area? <Can> If so, would a
500 watt digital thermometer <?> in the filter and the temp probe
in the main display be advised or would it be advised to use 2 250
watts in the main display? <The latter> My main confusion is the
filtration. The tank is not drilled, and I don't have the means to
drill it. <The manufacturer can/will, as well as your LFS
likely...> (If able, is there a formula for how many, what size
& where to place, the outlets?) <Yes, posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm scroll down, the
second tray...> Here I will use the CPR brand vs. the U-tube,
<Not recommended...> I understand they are recommended? <Not
by use> I not sure which to utilize here: Canisters- I've heard
Eheim Pro Series are a good filter. <Not the best approach to marine
filtration... again... Why didn't you look, read before writing
here?> These don't rely on gravity and use little electric.
Would they be able to maintain a 150 sufficiently with weekly
maintenance? <No> Wet/Dry/Trickle- One rated over 150 gallons.
These using bio-balls would help with the heavy bio-load and messy
eaters? (watching the nitrates, of course). Sump- Making a model of the
29 gallon sump featured on the site. With the use of no bio-balls? If a
W/D/T or sump is advised, would it be of use to use a canister for
carbon and water movement? In your opinion, would you benefit more from
the use of boxed "seawater" or synthetic salt mix for
bacteria and cycle time? Lastly, if the use of a Magnum HOT filter is
used for a QT or hospital tank, can you use the sponge sleeve in the
main filter to seed? Or these are not recommended. Thank you in advance
for your time and valued opinion for the health of my livestock.
<Have just skipped down. Please... follow instructions. Use the
indices, search tool on WWM... the answers to your simple questions
above and much of the needed related material is gone over and over
already there. Bob Fenner> In a fix and need advice, SW set-up... pb... 4/21/07 Bob <Tom> Thanks for the advice and for getting me headed in the right direction. I want to take the time to comment on the great information you and your staff provide. I have learned so much over the past month and would have made an expensive mistake it if had not been for the information provided in the articles and related FAQ's. Once again, thanks for shedding some light on things. <Welcome> Since we last chatted, I cancelled the order for the sump, skimmer, and calcium reactor. I have since purchased a CS250 Euro-Reef protein skimmer. I am also in the planning stages on a sump that will be 72"x18"x24" that will be behind the display tank in an adjoining storage room. <Nice> I have access to water (hot water tank feed), electricity (gas furnace), and a drain. This looks like a good place for the sump because I have ample space for equipment, can insulate room to help cut down on the noise of external pumps, perform water changes, and have a storage area for make-up water. The only negatives I can think of would be if I had to get the hot water heater or furnace replaced. Any thoughts on this plan? <Mmm, good to have such access, a "back room"... do just leave space around/access to such appliances... as they eventually do have to be serviced, replaced> Do you think the humidity would be a detriment to the gas heater or to the room? <Maybe... I'd contact the manufacturer re their suggestions> My planned system is as follows: 1) 215 gallon Oceanic with 4 drains(1.5"), and 4 returns(1"), the center bulkhead will be feeding a closed loop system for circulation using 1" PVC and 12-14 1/2" nozzles. 2) 72"x18"x18" sump with compartments for skimmer, refugium, chemical, mechanical filtration. and return water. 3) two external pumps, one for the closed loop and one for the return system water 4) three 250w heaters (Visitherm) 5) DSB of 5"-6" 6) 250-300lbs of liverock 7) Outer Orbit 72" 3x 250w MH, t5's, HQI's and blue/white led's for a total of 1062w Now for the questions, you just knew they were coming lol. My goal is to have a system that will allow me to keep fishes along with invertebrates in the beginning, I do want to be able to keep corals sometime in the future after I do a lot of research and reading. I want to do everything I can for the health and well being of my "charges". I want this system set-up to be designed right from the beginning and for the long haul as well as flexible enough to maintain all marine life so long as I do my part. Questions: 1) Do you feel that I will get sufficient flow from the three, 1 1/2" drains? Would 2" at the same number be better? <Much> (woops, that was two questions lol) 2) What percentage of the total flow rate(3225 gph-4300 gph at head) is ideal to push though the sump? <Mmm, the refugium portion... much less... Posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/refugpumpfaqs.htm> I know this has to do with many factors, such as drain size/number, pump size, sump design/size, and I am sure I am missing a few other things here, but, I would like a solid number so I can design the sump to handle this flow rate percentage. <Most all are covered on WWM... read on> 3) Will using a true union valve between the sump and intake side of the system pump (for removal and maintenance of pump only) cause too much restriction on the pump if left in the "open position" while in normal use? This will be an external pump. <Nope> These are the questions I have at the moment, I do appreciate the time and effort you put into this site and I do enjoy the learning experience. Thanks to your wisdom, advice, and experiences, I know where I want to go, just struggling with the how's and best methods to accomplish my goals. <No need/use in "struggling"... take all a bit at a time... Reduce to simpler questions, stated goals... You'll do fine> Hopefully, in the end, I will have a system that is balanced, reliable, thought out, and a real joy for the inhabitants (my wet friends) and for onlookers as well. I know I can get there with proper guidance, time, and the information provided here. Thanks and Best Wishes Tom P.S. Great Book, "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist", Everyone should read it at least once if not twice! <Thank you for this. Bob Fenner> Upgrading to a bigger tank! Using WWM... 4/14/07 I am upgrading from a 75 gallon tank with fish, LR & anemones <... not a good idea to mix species...> to a 150 gallon tank. I have a couple questions and would appreciate your help. I just got done with an ick outbreak, due to adding a new fish w/o QT. Therefore, here are my concerns. I want to use the LR in my current tank, would it still house the ick? <Posted> Would you recommend bleaching it first before adding it to the 150? <No> Do anemones? <What?> In the 75 I have shells for substrate. <... not advised...> I want to go with LS for the 150. I will use approx. 1", would using 50/50 (LS/non-L/S) be ok? <Posted...> I currently have 2 eheim <Proper nouns are capitalized> 2026 canisters on the 75. Can these be used on the 150, as they would not house ick? <...?> I know a sump would be much better. If using a sump, would you recommend a CPR overflow with one or two outlets? <Don't suggest such overflows... which you would know if you had taken the time, read...> Since the 150 is coming from another person, not brand new, would you recommend bleaching it? Thank you for your valuable time. Dawnc <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm and learn to/use the search tool. Bob Fenner> In a fix and need advice... Actually just need to read on WWM re plumbing designs et al. related material 4/2/07 Hello, <Hi there> I am currently in the process of setting up a 215 gallon reef. I want to use the oceanic <Product, proper noun, capitalized> with the overflows, but, from what I have read in you FAQ's, they are undersized. How can I get around this? <Have them (custom order) or someone else drill more, larger...> I want to be able to turn over the water at least 10 times an hour without using power heads. Can you spec out a tank from oceanic with the proper mod.s to allow for this? <You can... we/I could> The fix comes in here, I have ordered a liferefugium 2 from _www.lifereef.com_ ( http://www.lifereef.com) . I need to know what changes I need to make to this set up work for the size of tank I plan on setting up. I think the pump and sump size might be of concern. Please advise me on this so I can make the appropriate changes BEFORE he starts the build. Thanks in advance Tom <Umm, much more to know/tell than this process of writing back and forth will grant... For instance, issues of the size of your pump/s volute/s, desired types of overflows, ancillary plumbing for designated/dedicated circulation. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm The headings on Circulation, Plumbing... in order, top to bottom. Knowledge is power; be powerful. Bob Fenner> I'm confused and grey
matter is running from my ears, Sm. Reef... to larger, set-up
4/1/07 Bob, <Sorry to disappoint, but
tis' Brandon tonight.> Great site - so great that my mind
can't keep up! <Thank you. Bob will see.> I have
an established 29 gallon with 20 lbs live sand and 30 lbs
live rock with a few fish and a brittle star and black long spine
urchin. Small powerhead and hang-on filter that filters the
system about 4 times an hour. <This is really really
low. Ideally you want between 10-20 times an hour.> I
also have a vacant 75 gallon aquarium which I am READY to get
started. I was considering an AMiracle wet/dry filter system
but after reading your site wasn't so sure. What
I've read on your site (which by the way is probably the MOST
complete) I had to wonder if a WD system would even be worth it.
<Could become a source of much unwanted NO3.> If I stock the 75
gal with 10lbs of live rock and use the Remora Pro skimmer - will it be
enough filtration. I don't plan on having much in the
way of coral (at least for now). My main goal at the moment
is a fish only with live rock system. <You really should consider
about 1-2 pounds of LR per gallon. This would put you
between 75-150 pounds.> Sorry for the STUPID question - I'm just
really confused and want to get this going ASAP. <No need to
apologize. We all started somewhere. In the
future do try to spell check before sending however. It
takes time to proofread all incoming mail. We are all
volunteers, and this helps us a lot. Brandon.> --Pete Do
I need a W/D or is there a better way? What if I introduce a
few coral ? <You can remove the filter floss and keep a
sump. I would suggest reading up on
refugiums. NO3 can be both good and bad for
coral. In low ranges it feeds their
Zooxanthellae. In high ranges, it will kill
them.>
My first tank 03/23/07 Hi, great site that you have. <Thank you and credit to all the crew> I think that this is a simple question, but I can't ever seem to get the same answer twice. I'm new at this. I bought a 72 gal, pre-drilled tank. I have an aqua pro filter, with a built in protein skimmer. <I'm not familiar with this filter system?> I have a 700-gph pump in it. <Would benefit with the addition of a powerhead, extra water movement, we are aiming for around 15x turnover and at the moment you have just under 10x> This is the package that the store gave me. I put 100lbs of live sand in, 100 lbs of live rock that's been cycling for 3 weeks. I also have a very big, very expensive light. <Do you know what type of light it is? Fluorescent/VHO/Metal Halide and hopefully the wattage?> I haven't had that on yet. Is it necessary at this point? <Wouldn't do any harm, it will help encourage growth of organisms on the live rock e.g. macroalgae, coralline etc. And help in the cycle of diatoms> I'm in no hurry, but I did put in a 2 emerald crabs last week (pressure from the kids). They are doing fine, though we never see them. I plan on live rock, some clams (2-3) <These will be highly dependent on the light fixture. If you can find out the above questions Re the lighting then we can talk about these further> 4-5 fish, and probably a few anemones <Most have very poor survival rates in captivity and a lot of knowledge is needed to keep them and for this reason I wouldn't recommend them for your first tank, for yours and the animal's sake. I feel the addition of a few simple soft corals would be a very good idea and add colour and movement but with less demands on you and your tank> plus a standard "cleaning crew". How far off, equipment wise, from being ready to put in livestock? I don't want I don't want stuff to die cause I'm improperly set up, and to be honest, I've read until I'm completely confused. <It is easy to become confused but with patience and guidance the appropriate set-up for you and the animals in your care can be achieved. You have started well by questioning first, before buying and gathering information beforehand will help immensely. In terms of equipment if you could email back those questions about the lighting and the filter that will help us a lot. Also would be worth reading Re refugiums and an addition of a small "fuge" See here - http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm There is much to learn but we and other resources are here to help. Hope I've been of help, Olly> Thanks, Rocky New tank
advice, Reef Set-up 3/23/07 Hi Guys, <And girls,
too! JustinN with you today.>
Having kept
fw fish for many years i would be very obliged if you could give me
some advice on the my first foray in to the world of marines.
<Gladly, my friend.> I am halfway thru purchasing the eqpt. for
this and before any further capital expenditure i would really
appreciate your thoughts. <Sure> I have a Juwel corner aquarium
which is 120cm at its widest point, 85cm in breadth and 48cm deep, my
filtration is a Proficiensea fluidized sand filter and a TMC V2
skimmer. <Sounds good> Lighting is an HQI 250w metal halide
pendant (i think this may be inadequate) <I would say that this is
likely adequate, depending on what species you would like to keep. Most
photosynthetic life will do just fine under your current
arrangement.> and i am in the midst of buying three(?) of the new
propeller styled pumps run via a surge controller. <Excellent.> I
would be intending to stack live rock fairly centrally to create a reef
outcrop effect leaving swimming room to the sides and back of the tank
and having a layer of Araga live sand to the floor. <If you will be
adding live rock to this tank, save yourself some money and skip the
AragAlive. Just buy dry, sugar-fine oolitic aragonite sand, and add it
to the tank. Your live rock will serve to provide the biota boost
necessary to make the sand "live", and likely by the time
your curing and maturing process is complete, the sandbed will be just
as alive as the purchased one.> Being a bit scared of drilling the
tank and reluctant to use an overflow box after reading the horror
stories that these can create i won't be adding a sump or refugium.
<I would advise you to reconsider this. If you are not comfortable
with drilling the aquarium yourself, you can likely find a professional
to do it for you for a reasonable price. Beyond this, overflow boxes
are often given a bad rap, even though there is a simple solution to
increase their reliability. If you employ an overflow box, simply
employ a pair of identical ones for redundancy. That way, if the flow
of one is overtly clogged or problematic, you aren't running pumps
dry or overfilling tanks as there's still a regulated flow. I
completely understand your fears here, but the benefits of a sump or
refugium system far outweigh the potential risks, in my opinion.>
Stocking of the tank would be of the smaller hardier varieties of fish
no longer than 4inches individual length and some of the hardier
invertebrate and corals. <Excellent, sounds like you have a solid
game plan, my friend.> Are there any additions to equipment you can
recommend? and any potential risks that i can avoid before committing
myself further? or is the setup a non starter-your advice would be
massively appreciated. <Well, I think you've got everything
under quite sufficient control, Anthony. You've already avoided the
largest pitfall of the new aquarium hobbyist -- rushing into things.
Simply by taking the time to plan everything out as you are, you will
avoid most the pitfalls and common problems met by people entering the
hobby. Equipment-wise, the only thing you don't mention is
temperature stability, such as a heater. Make sure you leave amendments
for temperature control, and do consider my suggestions above. Beyond
this, I feel you will be successful in your plans.> Kind regards,
Anthony <The same to you and yours, my
friend. -JustinN> Upgrading To a Larger Reef Tank -- 02/27/07 Hello Mr. Fenner or whoever is on call today: <<Hello Patty...tis Eric here this morning>> I would like to upgrade from my three year old 90-gallon reef tank to a 180-gallon reef tank. <<Cool!>> My tank is thriving and is quite full with fish and corals. All are healthy and doing well. <<Excellent>> I do 20% weekly water changes ever since I got the tank and have never had a problem except for trading corals back to the aquarium shop because of no room. <<Exceptional>> A nice problem to have. <Indeed>> I have one day designated as "Tank Maintenance Day" and never deviate from it. The tank has been paying for itself for two years now. <<Wish I could say the same...>> I have not had to pay for supplies in quite awhile. This I attribute from reading your website and the Conscientious Marine Aquarist. <<Much useful info to be found>> I am a firm believer that if you take care of the tank each day it will run without problems. <<Mmm, a bit simplistic for the masses maybe...but I like your attitude>> My question is: Can I transfer all live sand, live rock, water, sludge and corals with fish into the 180-gallon and not jeopardize the corals and fish? <<In my opinion, no...not 'all' all at once. Sand beds experience massive die-offs of their biota when disturbed/moved, which aside from the obvious pollutant increase, also means they require time to regain their 'balance' (reestablish their 'zones' and repopulate)>> I plan to add more live sand and rock hoping the established fauna or microorganisms from the old tank will establish the 180-gal quickly so I don't lose fish or corals. <<This can be done...but I would recommend placing 'new' sand in the new tank and 'seeding' this with several cups of sand from the old system. Also, you need to make sure any new live rock added to the new system has been 'thoroughly' cured>> I was told this could be done by someone from a shop wanting to sell me the upgraded tank. I wanted to get your thoughts on this. <<It can/has been done...but do consider my recommendations re the sand bed>> I am still learning but don't test the water like I should. I rely heavily on the water changes. <<This is indeed the single best thing you can do for your (anyone's) tank>> If you feel I should not do this would going to a 125-gal 72" long tank be easier on the corals or would it not matter? <<Is of no consequence here>> Sorry for all the questions. <<No worries my friend>> Tank - MH 150 l0K Cora life lights w/actinics 30 gal sump Pro Clear Aquatic Protein Skimmer <<I recommend you look in to a suitably sized AquaC/Euro-Reef/H&S skimmer for this new system>> UV Sterilizer l.024 salinity <<May seem like a small thing, but 1.025/026 would be better (closer to NSW)>> 450 calcium <<Getting a bit high...hopefully alkalinity is kept at the lower end of the acceptable spectrum>> All other levels normal whenever tested. 100 pounds LR Top-off system and dosing with Kalkwasser...two cap-full's of Reef Complete daily. <<Please do test/keep an eye on calcium/alkalinity/magnesium and only dose 'as needed'>> RO/DI system Fish: 2 lg pajama cardinals 1 Banggai cardinal 2 clown fish 3-year old mandarin Fairy Wrasse 1 serpent star 1 blood shrimp Corals: 1 huge (S) leather l-ft tall (can't spell name) 1 huge colt Lg colony of pompom pulsing Xenia Lg ruffled leather on other side of tank Red candy coral Blue zooanthids Covered large rock of orange zooanthids Yellow and orange zooanthids Large cascade of blue mushrooms Red mushrooms Pink tipped frogspawn Large green frogspawn l large torch Star polyps 3 small frags of SPS corals (don't know names) <<A noxious and aggressive collection of animals...hopefully there is some ancillary chemical filtration on this system>> Your advice is appreciated. Patty <<I think you can go ahead and make the move to the larger system, with my reservations/recommendations re the sand bed in mind. Do be sure to transfer as much of the water from the old system to the new as well...lots of beneficial bacteria/microbes in the water itself. And have those test kits handy for testing ammonia/nitrite/nitrate along with a goodly supply of saltwater (preferably aged a week or more) for any necessary water changes as indicated by the test kits. Regards, Eric Russell>> What's next? Order of reef Tank Assembly - 02/21/07 Hello, <Hi Henry, Mich here.> I just got a used 72g bow front tank. <Congrats!> It came with a sump, skimmer, return pump and about 80lb. of live rock with a little water. <An excellent start.> What do I do next? Put in the live rock and how much? Or do I fill the tank and run the system? <Put in all the live rock, preferable directly on the glass bottom and not on top of any substrate. It will not hurt the rock to be covered with substrate and this will avoid any problems with potential/tragic rock falls in the future. It is best to keep your live rock wet, to keep it, well, alive. Ideally, next add any substrate that you are planning on using. But if you are not prepared it is most important to just keep the live rock wet either in the tank or in a Rubbermaid-type container. As far as substrate, if you are using brand new crushed coral or Southdown/Old Castle type play sand it is best to pre-rinse to remove as much dust as possible. If you are using sand from an established system, I would not pre-rinse as you will be washing way beneficial organisms. Then add your water and get your circulation running.> Thanks For Your Help, <You are welcome. -Mich> Henry Doubts... from Brazil....Setting up a New System 02/17/07 Hi guys, thank you for helping all of us... <Hello Camilla, Mich with you tonight.> I am starting cycling a 100g today and have been researching a lot lately, but I am not sure my English is good enough I could get it all you guys do up there. Here in Brazil we use to make things a bit different. I have fully cured live rock from my other tank, and will use them with a 3 " sand bed and a small amount of substrate I will get from a friend. <You tank may not truly cycle (have an ammonia spike) if you are using fully cured live rock from a previously cycled system.> Questions are: Should I place the rocks on the substrate or on the glass and then add the substrate? <I would place the rock on the glass and then add the substrate. I think this is the safest option.> Is it important/necessary to change all the water after cycle is finished? why? <No, you don't want to change all the water. You can do partial water change of 10-20% per week.> At which stage can I start placing corals? <When you Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate levels stabilize. This may be almost immediate.> I used to have hermit crabs, turbo snails and a red star as a cleaning crew in my other reef, but I thought I should add them as soon as I start the cycle, <Generally, I would wait until after the tank cycles, but yours may not, so it may be OK to add immediately, though there is no need to do this.> and, why is that I shouldn't use hermit crabs? <You can use hermit crabs, provided they are one of the reef safe varieties.> down in sump I have a box with 10" sand bed. Is it helpful? <Oh yes! Will act as a natural nitrate reducer. A very beneficial addition.> and I am thinking about using algae/ xenia on it, should I? <I would definitely recommend a macroalgae. Chaetomorpha would be my first choice, though many still use Caulerpa. Xenia could be kept in the sump if you have enough lighting or in the display.> the last one I swear! We don't have many skimmer options here, right now I have a Moratto, that is a Brazilian skimmer, venture. Now we can find here (for more than double you pay there...) the octopus skimmer (I found it announced in some American shops as well) it's the only option we have that is recirc, and with needle wheel. The other options are way too pricey and rare in Brazil. Do you know anything about this product? <I'm sorry, I do not.> should I use one ( recirc nw 150, ok?) or wait for a bit more till I can find a way to get an aqua c, Deltec or Euro reef? <Mmm, not really familiar with any Brazilian skimmers. I have an Aqua C with which I am quite pleased.> thank you again... best regards <You are quite welcome! -Mich> Camilla
Tank Rebuilding 2/3/07 Hey again, I'm not sure I quite understand the concept of the SeaSwirl.. <Ah... yes> is it a pump in itself or do I have to connect it (if so, how?) <The latter... Please read here: http://www.sea-swirl.com/> to the return from the built in overflow..? Another option for me is to use a Tunze Turbelle stream kit 6100 + a single controller, and maybe one other small powerhead in the back of the tank. <This is a vastly superior arrangement> Another question, do you have any idea of how I might convert a Wet/Dry w/ a skimmer and return pump in it, into a refugium? <Yes> I am going to have to raise the water level in the wet dry almost to the top correct? <Or perhaps build/install a baffle to raise the water level in a section... likely the "front" area where water comes first> and I am going to replace my skimmer with a Aqua C hang on tank version, but I am not sure what to do about the return pump, can it sit on the sand or mud in the refugium or would i have to raise it on something? <Best to read on WWM re... there are other issues you are not likely (apparently) aware of... that are also covered there> Next, as you might be able to tell I am pretty much redoing my tank and going full blown reef style for the first time. You have heard about the circulation, the filtration, now the lighting, ( https://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=15486&prodid=30699&catid=3) this is the fixture I am considering, however I have heard that Halides can cause excessive heat to enter the aquarium if not raised high enough.. since my ceiling cannot hold a hanging fixture, can you tell if this fixture is one that I connect to the tank? or is it also of the hanging variety? <Does connect, set on the tanks edges... as shown> If it does connect to the tank will it be far enough away from the water that it wont cause too much heat? <Mmm, likely will be fine...> This whole renovation process has been quite mind boggling... <The planning, anticipation can/should be a good deal of fun...> and I haven't even started! Yes, one more question I will not have the room for a calcium reactor so I will have to add trace elements manually.. which brand do you recommend? <Mmm, posted... am a big fan of Bob Stark's B-Ionic for beginners as yourself> and will additives be necessary if I maintain 10% weekly water changes with Reef Crystals? <Mmm, not at first likely...> Thank you so much, Christian (75 gallon tank w/ 440 watts VHO lighting 2 wt 2 bl,80 lbs LR and <1" LS SeaLife Systems Skimmer (one getting replaced)) <I strongly encourage you to read a good deal more before making the purchases listed... So you have a much better idea, "comfort level" with your choices... AND to join, participate in a marine/reef hobby club in your area (a great deal of fun, input of use here...) and the chance of your picking up a local "guru"... Bob Fenner> Set-up, stocking questions--a mixed bag 1/27/07 Hey hey. <What do you say?> I have a 60 gallon, rectangular, soon-to-be reef tank that's been up and running for 9 months. <Welcome to the reef my friend.> I've asked you all a few questions before (to much benefit) and now I think I'll try to get all the rest of them out of the way at once. <Alrightly> So...After many hours of tinkering, upgrading, and hundreds of hours of research (mostly on WWM), I'm almost satisfied with my set-up. <Very good! Key word there being almost... if you make it to satisfaction, I hope your time there is longer than the 10 minutes that most reef aquarists experience.> My tank has a built-in overflow with bio-balls and a sponge filter inside, with a 1-inch bulkhead return to my 20-gallon sump. My return pump is a Rio 2500, which I am replacing with a Rio 10HF. This will increase the flow from ~330gph to ~510 gph (at 6ft of head). Do you think this will be too much? <Will have to watch, a 1 inch bulkhead should handle around 600 gallons per hour.> I'm concerned about the adequacy of my drain and the turnover in the sump/refugium (see below). <Understandable.> I also have two Maxijet 1200 powerheads in my display, a 1 to 1.5 inch live sand bed, and tons of live rock, maybe 80 to 100 pounds. It is lit with Coralife 260W (total) PC 10K and actinics. This fixture is mounted in my canopy. Coralife states the light is only to be used over covered aquariums. Mine is covered at the moment, but when summer rolls around it might get pretty warm. I have a small fan in the canopy (which has an open back) and can put a fan over the sump, but if heat is still an issue do you think it'd be okay to drill a bunch of small holes in the tank covers for more ventilation? <I would think this would be OK.> Moving on. I made the sump into a refugium, in the sense that I added Chaetomorpha, an 18W PC light, and live rock. The Chaetomorpha is doing great (despite the relative low light), and my nitrates are always below 5ppm. I just added a culture of live copepods into it, also. There's not too much room in there for much substrate due to the equipment (there's also a skimmer in there), but I've read that copepods prefer it. I think I could put about an inch in there (maybe in a casserole dish?), if it'd be worthwhile. <A possibility.> Another concern I have is that the copepods will get filtered out by the skimmer, which has a sponge filter on the outlet to reduce bubbles. I've heard many people prefer no mechanical filtration, or bio-balls for that matter. Would you take out the bio-balls (over a period of weeks) and/or the sponges? <You could if you find your Nitrates are increasing. I think I would lose the bioballs immediately, may be worth trying to keep the sponge just as a physical barrier for the microfauna.> My fishes at the moment are an ocellaris clown, a royal Gramma, a yellow-streak fairy wrasse (C. luteovittatus), and a neon goby. I'm thinking of adding 3 chromis and later down the road--here it comes--a mandarin or Rainford's Goby. <Please allow your tank to establish itself for several months and build up a large supply of microfauna before attempting either of these fish. In general the Rainford's Goby (Amblygobius rainfordi) is a better choice.> I know they are difficult, so if you recommend against it I will probably go with a flame angel or coral beauty instead. <Would be a better choice as long as you re aware of the risk of these angels nipping at your corals.> My Gramma is very shy, and I'm hoping that the Chromis will make him more comfortable about coming out of the rockwork. <May, may not.> As for invertebrates, I'm thinking a Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp, a Fromia Star, a Hawaiian feather duster, pulsing xenia, Green Star Polyps, a leather coral, and torch or frogspawn. I'll do more research on the exact species before I buy, and will make sure to keep plenty of space between them. What do you think of the plan, in general? <Fromia is a poor choice. I would not add this. It is doomed to starvation.> Okay, one last thing. I just set up a 10-gallon quarantine tank and put it's sponge filter in my sump to grow bacteria. I'll add 75% tank water and 25% new water. How long do you think it'll take to cycle? <Mmm, not sure, seeding the sponge will help, but you should monitor your levels with a test kit.> Sorry to bombard you with questions, I guess I'm a bit of a perfectionist. <As are many others.> Thanks again for all your help. <Welcome! -Mich> Scott Re: Ich, Low pH, Low Calcium, Possibly Elevated Magnesium... reef filtr. 1/21/07 Mich, Now that I have the protein skimmer up and running what should I do next?...live rock or new filter? <Definitely live rock.> What kind of filter would you recommend? From what I've read wet/dry is the way to go. any particular brand or set up? I've been on the Dr Fosters website trying to get a better idea of what they are and how they work. Again, don't really want to rely on the LFS around here. <Wise to not rely on LFS, better to rely on yourself. Please do some reading on this topic. Wet/dry will produce measurable nitrate levels. Here are some suggested readings for you to start with: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reeffilt.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reef1.htm Thanks!! Jennifer <Welcome, -Mich> Re: Ich, Low pH, Low Calcium, Possibly Elevated Magnesium... skimmer f' 1/21/07 Thanks for all of you help Mich!!! <Hi Jennifer, You're welcome!> Got the protein skimmer up and running and I know it's supposed to have a 24-48 hr break in but within 3 hrs I have dirty water in the bottom of the skimmer.. YIKES!! <Yep, not surprising.> I hope that's a good thing! Jennifer <Just like Martha, It's a good thing... -Mich> Message for Crew Member Chuck Rambo - "I Got a new tank for Christmas" 1/12/06 <That soils engineer type told me he put this in my in-folder because it is "marine"...> I saw your message to Bob about the lack of emails from newbies that received new tanks for Christmas. Well, "I got a new tank for Christmas" and we're all newbies in one way or another. <Oh yes> I am going from a 65 gallon reef to a 75 gallon reef. While the new tank is only 10 gallons, the extra foot in length should make for a much nicer setup. 99% of my questions I can answer by reading the daily FAQs and researching the archives, but when I saw your message to Bob, I figured I would run a few things by you since I am working on a new setup. Here's what I plan to do.... Suggestions and criticism are welcome. - 75 Gallon "reef ready" glass aquarium with stand and canopy. <Mmm, do take a read on WWM, elsewhere re the fitting/plumbing of such reef not-so ready set-ups... Companies have improved the number and size of through-puts, but...> - 440 watts of VHO with 2 Actinic white and 2 Super Actinic bulbs. 3 moonlights controlled by a Lunar Tracker. <Okay... but I'd likely switch out some of the actinic for more white... more functional and aesthetic IMO> - 30ish (30X16X18) gallon sump/refugium with ASM G-1X skimmer and Mag 18 return pump - Tunze TS07 kit with one 6000 power head and one controller (on order) - 90 to 130 pounds of live rock depending on how much makes it look aesthetically pleasing and still be functional. 80 pounds are in current reef and 50 pounds are curing. - Shallow sand bed in display and Miracle mud and Chaeto in sump. - Red Sea 100mg ozonizer and ORP controller - Two 250 watt heaters I realize that everyone has an opinion but I welcome yours, Bob's, Salty Dog's, Eric's, Sabrina', Justin's, and any other crew members that care to offer one. The more ideas/opinions/suggestions one has, the better the decisions one can make. <Agreed> I currently have 5 fish - 2 black Perculas, 1 Carpenter Fairy Wrasse, 1 Court Jester Goby, and 1 Bicolor Blenny. Corals are LPS and some softies but I would like to try some SPS like Montipora if possible. Here are the areas where I appreciate your opinions. Circulation - I had originally planned a closed loop system with a Mag 24 sump return pump feeding the loop. However, the quote/unquote "Mega Flow" portion of my quote/unquote "reef ready" aquarium will only handle 700 gph, <Yes... if that> or so the propaganda that was attached to the aquarium claims. I went ahead and plumbed a 1/2 inch PVC loop with four 1/2 outlets that should be able to produce approximately 200 gph from each nozzle with a Mag 18 after losses. <Sounds about right> According to what I have read on this site, this will not be enough to produce the random, turbulent flow I need. <Mmm, no, not by itself> I am leaving it in place because it will at least disperse the sump return water more evenly and I ordered the 1850gph Tunze kit to augment the flow. Do you think this set up will be sufficient to allow me to tweak and manipulate the flow to meet the needs of Montis? <Yes, likely so> Also, can you suggest how you would position the Tunze to get the results needed. <Something of this power... flow rate... by itself... needs to be mounted up near the surface, on the side, facing toward the other end... as you will find... surprisingly forceful...> Refugium - I am currently using Carib Sea Miracle Mud at about a 1.5 inch depth in my refugium. I have been using this for about 3 months and the main thing that I have noticed is that my skimmate doesn't smell nearly as bad as it did when I employed a DSB in the refugium. Also, all the corals look as good or better. So I plan to continue with the Miracle Mud approach. I have read on this site about mixing and layering the mud and sand. The mud has some very fine particles and could use some sand on top to keep it in place. Will a layer of sand on top of the mud significantly inhibit or slow the release of the trace elements from the mud? <Mmm, not much, enough to be concerned if there is sufficient mud period> Can a DSB go on top of the mud and the benefits of both be realized? <Mmm, better to make two separate areas here> If so, what are your recommendations for the desired depth of each? <Posted on WWM. http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm scroll down...> This website and the dedication of hobbyists like you and the rest of the crew are a godsend. You willingly devote your time and efforts to share knowledge and experience in an effort to help others get the most enjoyment out of this hobby. <Yep> "If I had only known then what I know now", I WOULD have tested my water, I WOULD have done water changes, I would NOT have mixed incompatible species together only to watch them stress each other until one died, I would NOT have spent $30 on a blood red fire shrimp that only lasted 30 seconds because I also had a Huma Picasso Triggerfish in the little 65 gallon, <Snack time!> I would NOT have lost $390 dollars worth of fish because I didn't quarantine and introduced velvet into my tank, and so on and so on. I learn something new from this site every day and have had pretty good success for the past 3 years because of it. <And this scant knowledge and inspiration coupled with your intelligence and application...> I am trying to forget the years preceding my finding this site. Thanks for everything. I promote this site at every opportunity. P.S. I hope my grammar will past inspection with a minimal amount of editing on your part. <Heeeee! Better than mine! Cheers, Bob Fenner> Conversion...FO To Reef 12/27/06 G'day Crew! <So far, so
good, Dan.> I'm currently in the process of converting a FO
aquarium to one that can hold some soft corals such as corallimorphs,
zoanthids and some leather corals, as well as a bubble tip anemone.
<Not a good idea mixing corals with anemones.> My tank
specifications are below It's an AquaOne120 (280 L capacity) that
includes an inbuilt filter/lighting system. The filter sits on top of
the aquarium and contains filter wool, mesh and ceramic noodles. I have
two full spectrum fluorescents and one 10000K Actinic (all 30W). I also
have a hang-on Jebo120 Protein Skimmer that I have modified the tank to
accommodate. Currently my tank holds: 20 kg live rock( I plan on slowly
adding more) 1 Flame Angel 1 Pinstripe Wrasse <Is known to eat
certain types of snails, tubeworms, etc, and requires a tight fitting
lid as it is a jumper.> 1 Valentini puffer <This guy will eat
invertebrates such as found in reef tanks (shrimp, crabs, etc), and is
semi-aggressive toward other fish, often taking bites out of their
fins.> 2 Saddleback Clownfish 4 Green Chromis Some Corallimorphs,
Zoanthids, a head of Duncanopsammia axifuga containing about 20 polyps,
and three bubble tip anemones (I had a large one that recently divided
- I am going to sell two of them). Water stats read Ammonia = 0,
Nitrite = 0 and Nitrate = 20 ppm and everything is running well as I do
a lot of maintenance on it. I have a couple of questions. Firstly,
since I am upgrading my system to take some more corals I am going to
invest in a new filter. I have discussed this with the guys at my LFS
and am leaning towards purchasing a 1200 L/hr canister filter. I will
keep the older filter running too but replace its media with bio-balls.
I know this is an unconventional configuration, but due to the nature
of this aquarium I am really limited as to what I can do with it. I
would like to add several more fish including a yellow tang, long-nosed
hawkfish, midas blenny and maybe some PJ cardinalfish or a Comet
Grouper (Marine Betta), <The comet won't fit into this scenario,
a predator which does not appreciate bright light such as you will need
for your corals. With your other fish, the tang will grow
too large for the size tank you have. Need to make a choice
here.> as well as some more corals. Do you think this is a workable
configuration for what I'd like to achieve? <Yes, with my
exceptions.> Would these stocking levels be too high? <Yes, if
you include all but the betta and puffer.> And is my lighting going
to be ok to sustain the corals I plan on keeping? (soft corals) Are
there any species in particular you would recommend? <Your 90 watts
of lighting isn't going to do the trick. For soft
corals, you will need to be around 350+ watts. You
didn't mention the depth of your tank, so an accurate wattage
number cannot be given.> Thanks in advance! <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Daniel Reef Set-up Qs 12/20/06 Good day everyone, (Hoping for an answer from Bob, Anthony or Steven) <Good day to you Jeremy, Mich with you tonight. I hope you're not too disappointed.> I think I have finally confused myself to the point that I'm not sure what I'm doing any more and have no idea in which direction to proceed. <Hehehe, yes, I have been there too. Sounds like information overload to me. Step away from the books, step away from the computer. Slowly inhale, slowly exhale, repeat.> I've read several books and a great many of the articles and FAQ on WetWebMedia which I found very helpful and now I'm hoping for a little personalized advice. <I shall try.> I have kept reef aquariums for about 7 years and have kept a wide variety of corals and livestock. <OK> I set up my initial tank with the advice of my LFS owner and have tried to educate myself with books and articles to fill in the gaps, but I have deviated from my initial setup very little. <OK> I would have to say that my success thus far has been a combination of blind luck and good advice. <As is often the case.> After moving cross-country and selling off my tank I am at the point of contemplating setting up another reef system. <It's like a bad horror flick that just sucks you back in.> I've spent about a month reading everything I can get my hands on, but all I've managed to do is completely confuse myself. <Ah, yes information overload indeed.> I have most enjoyed keeping LPS corals and mushrooms and polyps and xenia, I like the movement and the colors and the interesting shapes. <Yes, lots of beautiful creature fall into these categories.> I also have always kept an anemone with either a single or mated pair of clowns. I think I would like to set up a tank geared towards caring for this type of reef life. <OK> Are any of the above not compatible in lighting or water condition requirements with each other? <Mmm, with appropriate placement should be OK together.> I want to set up a manageable reef tank. I've had 58gal, 110 gal, and175 gal tanks in the past and honestly the 175 was a bit much. I'm thinking about a 135 gal that is 72Wx18Dx25T.Is there a problem with a tank that is only 18" deep? <No, easier to setup/maintain in many ways.> The tanks I've had in the past ran VHO lights on icecap ballasts and I ran an ecosystem mud filtration system, no skimmer, no refugium, no other filters. I am planning on running the ecosystem filter again, but based on the advise of your site will probably add a protein skimmer. <I would highly recommend a protein skimmer.> Anything else I should consider? I assume that a deep sand bed is still not recommended with a mud system? <Are you committed to the mud system? I think a deep sand bed would be a better choice.> How large should a refugium be for this size tank? <I think bigger is better in this case. I would try to get a sump that is as big as I could fit into the stand or what ever your limiting factor is. I would dedicate a good portion of the sump to the refugium.> My biggest confusion centers around lighting, lots has changed since I last set up a tank. I gather that there are more efficient lighting systems than VHO on the market now. <VHO is still quite popular.> Knowing what I want to keep, what type of lighting system would you recommend? PC? Halide? HQI? T-5? I want something that is going to provide as much lighting as needed, but not too much. I'd also like something that is not going to break the bank each month with my electric bill. I'd rather pay a little more up front to get reduced energy consumption. I like the look of the Current Orbit lighting systems, but don't know which one would be the most appropriate or if there is a better solution. What would you use if you were me? <All could be used. This is really very much a personal choice. Each lighting possibility/combination has benefits and draw backs. This is something you really need to figure out for yourself. Many things to consider.> My last concern is with setting up a species/region specific tank. I have done the mixed garden type of setup in the past and I think it would be nice to set up a system more in keeping with a particular region and stocking fish and coral that would naturally be found in close proximity to each other. <A good philosophy.> My only problem is that I don't know enough to know what regions you would find LPS corals in and what fish would be found in the same locations. If you were setting up a tank that focused on LPS corals what region would you base it on and what would you stock it with? Corals? Fish? Inverts? Anemone? <I think you might enjoy a book by John H. Tullock. The book is titled Natural Reef Aquariums, simplified approaches to creating living saltwater microcosms. There are several chapters dedicated to setting up systems which reflect the wild reefs of various geographical areas. I think you will find several corals of your liking in the chapter titled The Gulf of Mexico.> Sorry for the length of this e-mail, but I really appreciate any help you are able to provide...thanks...Jeremy <I hope I have been of assistance. -Mich> New System In The Works! - 12/06/06 First let me say thanks for establishing this forum for avid salt water enthusiasts. I'd be remiss it I didn't also offer a heartfelt thanks to the WWM team for their expert advice. <And thank you for the kind words! Scott F. here tonight!> I am a frequent visitor to your site. I just purchased the Conscientious Marine Aquarist and can't wait to read it. I'll be setting up a 180 gallon reef aquarium. It will house predominately stony corals, but I have minimal experience with them. I had a 150 gallon reef tank 6 years ago (my how things change in a short period of time), but with the exception of a Hammer & Galaxea, it was stocked with soft corals. Fish will consist of Anthias (unsure what type: recommendations?), a Scott's Fairy Wrasse, Chromis or other dither fish that Anthias associate with (suggestions), 3 tangs: Powder Blue, Sohal, and Purple, a Blackcap or Dottyback, a pair of shrimp gobies/pistol shrimp, a pair of cleaner shrimp and later, a Mandarin & Tridacna clams. <That's quite a big fish load! I'd cut the Tang choice to one of them- most likely, the Purple Tang. Tangs get quite large, need significant amounts of physical space (3 would need hundreds of gallons) and can be aggressive in tight quarters You'll be surprised how tight 180 gallons can e with 3 tangs!).> I have a 180 gallon All-Glass stand (24' clearance to tank) and I plan to set-up a 180 gallon acrylic aquarium. I've read on your site that if I go acrylic, I'll need to place plywood under the entire aquarium. Is it possible to use additional plywood to 'raise' the tank to accommodate an AquaC-240 skimmer without affecting the structural integrity of the stand? <Well, I think what we're getting here is that you need to make sure that the tank is on a very level surface for long-term structural integrity.> I'm also considering a Euro-Reef skimmer since these two are the models you prefer. Based upon my desires, is the Euro-Reef worth the extra $? <Yes, they really are. I've used a number of high end skimmers in my time, including Deltec, Tunze, and Euroreef. I must say how impressed that I am with my Euroreef! It's simple, well-built, and amazingly productive. Worth every penny, IMO.> Lighting will consist of 3 MH (2-175 & 1-250), & two blue actinics for aesthetics. How high above the water level should the lights be mounted? <I'd opt for 6 inches or so, myself.> With the Scott's, should the tank be covered? <You might want to cover the tank- they are jumpers. At the very least, you could use some eggcrate over the cutouts for protection.> I will incorporate a Wave2K as well. Would you recommend 1 center or 2? <I'd start with one, as they are rather expensive, and you won't know your tank's water movement needs until the rockwork is set> You're a proponent of Calcium Reactors. Should it be set up initially or can it be added later? <Well, it would be nice to have it set from day one, but you can also use two part additives (like B-Ionic) or Kalkwasser until you assess your systems calcium needs.> What do you think of U/V & Ozone? <Both have their place, but I'd be more inclined to use ozone before UV; I think ti is more useful for most of us.> I welcome your feedback on this set-up. I want to do it right the first time and will invest the time, money & resources necessary to prevent replacing inefficient equipment later. You can't put a price on having a piece of the ocean in your living room!! <Amen to that! Don't skimp on your components. Get the best ones that you can and think about the long term. Get some feedback from other hobbyists, and make your choices based on the needs of your inhabitants.> Thanks again and God Bless you this Christmas! <You're quite welcome! And the very best to you and yours this holiday season! Regards, Scott F.> New Set-Up- New Questions! 11/01/06 Hey crew, <Scott F. your Crew Member today!> First off let me start by saying, "Thank you for a great resource on the net!" This place has been a great spot for all sorts of late night and bathroom reading. <That's why laptop computers were invented! LOL> I know my question has been answered in different ways and different places but I want to make sure I am on the right track. I am setting up a new 55 Gallon reef tank. I have been out of the saltwater hobby due to grad school for a few years now. (A yellow tang buys a lot of Raman Noodles!). <And peanut butter!> I would like to keep corals and the works with this set-up. I used to run a 38 Gallon set up with only live rock, sand, and a skimmer for my filters. I just got passed a 55 Gallon tank for me to "play" with. It came with a Aqua Clear Aquatics Wet/Dry, another Red Sea Skimmer (I have two now), 75lbs of live sand, and two 48" PC (one 4 x 65W and one 2 x 65W). I also have a 20 Gallon I was going to hook up as a refugium. <Sounds nice!> First off let me start by telling you the "advice" I have gotten from my LFS and you tell me if this sounds off to you. Run the overflow from the 55G to the 20G refugium. Run a skimmer in the refugium with a heater. Use a pump to pump from the refugium to the Wet/dry. Use the bio-balls in the wet dry with a carbon filter under the ball but before the drip pan (seems kind of hard to change the carbon that way), put the other skimmer in the sump of the wet dry, and maybe think about putting another heater in the sump before returning to "super clean" water back to the tank. I also might want to consider running a 36W UV set up in the refugium as well. Does something seem over kill here or is it just me?!? <I'd dump the bioballs from the wet dry. I would also use the carbon "passively" in a media bag just kept in the sump where water can flow through it and you can easily access it.> Second, I have read many different things about using a wet/dry. I have never used one before and am a bit weary of how they work. I just went and bought 2 gallons of bio balls but now am reading about how they are useless. Any thoughts? <Well, not useless...They are actually really efficient. It's just that they tend to accumulate nitrate over time, which is sort of counterproductive in most reef systems.> Third, Can you give me a clue as to a R/O system that I should be looking at. I am in the market because running to the LFS for water to change every week is a chore (plus you see what I have to deal with at my LFS as far as advice). Should I be looking at a 3 stage, 4 stage, 6 stage, or hiring a person from the South Pacific to bring me Fiji water?!? <I have used a Kent "Maxxima" 3 stage RO/DI system for years with good results. Captive Purity and Spectra Pure are also nice systems They also have come out with "Sea Water" taken from the ocean. This is new to me but at 4 gallons for $14 sound like a rip off. Any truth to the claims that it is the best things around since frozen brine shrimp?!? <Well, it can be useful, but there are so many good brands of synthetic salt mixes out there that it seems more economical to buy a good RO/DI unit and a quality salt mix. Over time, this will be just fine, IMO.> Fourth, (I know I have met my three question quota for the day but bear with me.) What are your thoughts on UV lights? My last saltwater set up got a plague of green hair algae before I took it down a few years ago. I fought that stuff for about a year before it finally got the better of me. I have read conflicting reports on if a UV set up works but I would also hate to deal with algae ever again. <Well, algae is a reality; we have to live with some of it. Nutrient export (i.e.; water changes, use of chemical filtration media and overall good husbandry techniques) are the key to combating nuisance algae. UV has it's place, but I've never used it much and I would rather invest my money elsewhere.> Ok that is about all I got for this session. Thank you so much for your help to all of us new (and starting out again) in the hobby. Brandon Gray <Best of luck to you, Brandon! Regards, Scott F.>
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