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Amongst the "personality" fishes for marine aquariums, few can match some of the snapper family. These animals can be hand tamed, and kept for a very long time... if you have the space. The snappers and their allies, the fusiliers are good additions for "fish-only" marine systems, who, though bold eaters, only require a darkened space to call their own. Classification, Favored Species: All told there are twenty one genera and some hundred seven described species of snappers. The family Lutjanidae is further split up by some taxonomists into five subfamilies; in recent schemes including the planktivorous family/subfamily of fusiliers, Caesionidae/Caesioninae. Take a look at a "typical" snapper; they all have a similar body plan; a continuous (or shallowly notched) dorsal fin with 9-12 spines and 9-18 soft rays; an anal fin of three spines and 7-11 soft rays. Notice the origin of the pelvic fins; they're inserted just behind the pectoral base, granting the fish good turning and hovering control. How 'bout the mouth? With a common name like snapper, you'd assume theirs would be large, and you'd be right. Snapper mouths are easy to spot, being terminal, most with enlarged canine teeth, and a distinctive arrangement of jaw-bones. Technically the maxilla slips beneath the preorbital bone when the mouth is closed and the supramaxilla is absent; it must appear like a landing ramp to other aquatics as well, right up to the time they're inhaled. Natural and Introduced Range Snappers are tropical and subtropical in the Pacific, Atlantic and Indian oceans; a few are estuarine to entirely freshwater (Lutjanus fuscescens, Lutjanus goldiei, Lutjanus maxweberi), though these aren't the ones typically sold as "freshwater snappers". Snappers are important food and game fishes, and several species have been introduced into non-native waters. Size: Small species get to about half a foot, largest ones attain a yard in length. Small species get to about half a foot, largest ones attain a yard in length. Favorite Aquarium Snapper Species: The following lutjanids are amongst those most often encountered in the pet-fish hobby, but except for the one warned against below, the whole family does well in "standard" aquarium conditions; as long as their tank is big enough. Do look for the smaller species if your aquarium volume is limited.
Standard offerings from the Caribbean include the Dog Snapper, Lutjanus jocu (Bloch & Schneider 1801), the appropriate color-named Mahogany Snapper, Lutjanus mahogoni, and yellow-tailed snapper, Ocyurus chrysurus; the last being one of the most popular snappers for aquarium use for its beauty, more peaceful nature, and slower growth. Less often seen from the western Atlantic are the Mutton Snapper, Lutjanus analis, and Schoolmaster, Lutjanus apodus; feed these last two sparingly, they get big, fast.
Of the handful of species so marked, the Blue-and-Gold-Striped Snappers (Lutjanus kasmira and Lutjanus quinquelineatus from the Indo-Pacific, and Lutjanus viridis of Mexico's western coast) occasionally found in the trade are exemptions to the "one-to-a-tank" snapper rule. These smaller lutjanids (about a foot), are best kept in a small school, of 3-5 individuals.
About "Freshwater Snappers": There are a few species of Lutjanids that are brackish to marine that tolerate hard, alkaline freshwater. Commonly offered/utilized in this regard are the Schoolmaster, L. apodus (above) and Mangrove Snapper (below). Both/all are more aggressive than most fishes kept in similar settings... eating most everyone's share of the food, and when larger, most everyone else... Do best kept in brackish water, with large, aggressive tankmates.
About The Fusiliers, Family Caesionidae, http://fishbase.sinica.edu.tw/Summary/FamilySummary.cfm?ID=459
Selection: General to Specific A good snapper is easy to find; most offered are excellent, and the one's who "aren't going to make it" are pretty obvious. The latter share two common observable traits: they're physically and behaviorally beat. Broken fin spines, swollen eyes, missing scales and open cuts are evidence of improper capture and handling. Excessive cowering and lack of feeding come from pretty much the same. Leave such specimens to recover at the dealers. Collecting Your Own I want to mention as another item to look for when making a purchase. Snappers are gathered by hand to hand netting, driving into a barrier/mist net, and hook and line. The last category are generally okay in terms of quick healing... but sometimes not. Check for a hook mark in the mouth, even for little fish, and make sure the specimen is eating before taking it home. Environmental: Conditions Habitat Snappers are undemanding for the most part except for two requirements; adequate living and hiding space. The first is plain to understand; but you'd think that such "reef-bullies" wouldn't be given to sulking and hiding in the dark; but they are. To keep yours happy, construct a good sized cave of rock, coral, shell, what have you; and leave it alone. Chemical/Physical Conventional "fish-only" conditions of specific gravity, temperature range and stability, and lack of nutrient build-up suffice. Filtration And circulation should be vigorous to remove wastes and expedite gaseous exchange. A decent skimmer (one that doesn't remove foam continuously) is mandatory for good health. Behavior: Territoriality/Predator/Prey Relations: Though some snappers are social animals, feeding and traveling in schools, most are best maintained one to a tank in captivity. They get along fine with other species that are too large to be ingested. Snappers are definitely not reef tank additions, getting too big and eating smaller fishes and critters. Introduction/Acclimation After quarantine, or at least a freshwater dip-bath, snappers may be unceremoniously transferred via a soft net or covered container into the main/display unit. Be aware that they will hide for a period of days to a few weeks, possibly without feeding much or at all. This "scared-dog" conduct is normal for snappers and may be shortened by attention to decor and feeding. Feeding/Foods/Nutrition: Types, Frequency, Amount, Wastes A snapper that does not accept food is rare; a periodic food strike shouldn't worry you however, and all will accept meaty items after acclimation. In the wild snappers feed on small fishes and non-vertebrates; in aquariums they readily adapt to frozen squid, crustaceans, Lancetfish, shellfish... Disease: Infectious, Parasitic, Nutritional, Genetic, Social Snappers are typically clean on arrival, and amongst the last fishes in a system to catch and succumb to usual environmental, parasitic and infectious diseases. They respond well to basic remedies (copper, dips, specific gravity manipulation) for crypt and velvet. Close What more could you ask for in the way of a show specimen for your marine set-up? The only real negative aspect of keeping snappers is their growth and size; both of which you can control by feeding sized portions one to three times a week. You might not see them often at your dealers, due to lack of folks asking for them, but the snappers (except for Macolor) make great fish-only system specimens; if you have the space. Bibliography/Further Reading: Allen, Gerald R., 1985. FAO species catalogue. Vol. 6. Snappers of the World. An annotated and illustrated catalogue of Lutjanid species known to date. FAO Fish Synop. (125) Vol. 6 Burgess, Warren E., Herbert R. Axelrod & Raymond E. Hunziker III, 1990. Atlas of Aquarium Fishes, v.1, Marine. T.F.H. Publications, NJ. Fenner, Robert. 1997. Put a tiger in your tank. Keeping Snappers. TFH 2/97. Nelson, Joseph S., 19934. Fishes of the World, 3rd ed.. Wiley, NY. Randall, John E., 1968. Caribbean Reef Fishes. T.F.H. Publications, NJ. Tinker, Spencer W. 1978. Fishes of Hawaii. Hawaiian Service. |
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