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FAQs about Zebra Moray Eels 2
Related FAQs:
Zebra Morays 1, Zebra Moray ID,
Zebra Moray Behavior, Zebra Moray
Compatibility, Zebra Moray Selection,
Zebra Moray Systems, Zebra Moray
Feeding, Zebra Moray Disease,
Zebra Moray Reproduction, Moray Eels in
General, Moray
Identification, Moray Selection,
Moray Behavior, Moray Compatibility,
Moray Systems, Moray Feeding,
Moray Disease, Moray Reproduction,
Freshwater Moray Eel FAQs,
Snowflake Morays, Ribbon Moray
Eels, Other Marine Eels,
Related Articles: Zebra Moray, Ribbon
Morays, | |
Re: Red Sea Books/ habitat... Jake Adams... circ. input 2/5/09
Hi Bob, <Simon> Snowflake Morays are also listed in your FAQ as
coming from the Red Sea - would you suggest that I swap the pair of
Zebras out for a pair of Snowflakes instead for this Biotope? <Mmm,
no...> The trip to Egypt has been sanctioned by the way! It was the
possibility of seeing either/ or Whale Sharks/ Mantas that did the
trick! Cheers, Simon Trippick <Heeee! Have been quite a few
times, never seen these there... Shhhh! BobF>
G. zebra, Red Sea Books/ habitat... Jake Adams... circ. input
Gymnomuraena zebra does indeed occur in the Red Sea. 2/5/09
The first reports are by Klunzinger (1871) from Quseir, then Fowler
(1945) from the Sudan coast and Clark et al. (1966) from Dahlak. Another
specimen I know of is from Ras Muhammad, Sinai and was confirmed by
Randall and Golani in 1995. The USNM also has two from the Red Sea.
Cheers. Marco. <Well I'll be. Thank you for this Marco. Bob Fenner,
who has never seen this species in the Gulf of Aqaba... but...>
Hey WWM Crew 5/17/08 Hey WWM Crew, Giant
Clam, Zebra Moray comp./sys. <Okay...> Sorry to bother
you. I know you guys get swamped with questions. I have a 90 gal
grow out tank for my 14inch Zebra moray before I move him to a 150
gallon later this summer. The tank right now has the Zebra moray,
mushroom anemones, and various beginner polyps. The wife really likes
how the giant clams look and wants to add some to the tank. I was
just wondering if small 3-4inch giant clams are safe with Zebra morays?
<Yes, should be fine... in terms of not being predated/eaten. The bright
light needed by the Tridacnids may prove to be too much for the
Gymnomuraena... this lighting might be best supplied by a directly
overhead placed small MH of low/er wattage... allowing one side of the
tank to be dimmer> I wanted to ask you guys first before I went out
and spent hard earned cash on a clam. Thanks in advance for all the
help. Jason <Thank you for sharing! Bob Fenner>
Gymnomuraena hlth, lack of info., Anglish 1/25/07 Hi, my
name is Laura and I have a question about a zebra eel. My boss got a
zebra eel from some <?> off employees for christmast <A
perverse religious-icon/ship cross?> a few years ago and he had been
doing great. About 2 months ago we added some different fish to his
tank and I noticed that one of them was picking at him real bad
<Mmm, does happen... Gymnomuraena are very passive> and it looked
like he was making the eel hurt. I finally got the fish out and figured
that the eel would calm down. Since this time the eel has stopped
eating and has lost all of his wait. <Too impatient?> I talked
to the guys that clean the aquarium for us and they just told me to
leave him alone for a couple of weeks and then try to feed him which I
did. <Good advice> I still can't get him to eat. I usually feed
him squid from the store and he has always loved it, but he won't eat it
so I went and bought some Krill for him to see if maybe he wanted
something different. He will put the Krill in his mouth and act like
he's going to eat, but then he just spites <To frustrate you?>
it out. He has also develop <Tense...> all the red blood spots
all over him and all around his mouth. I noticed last Friday that he
had what it looks like white pockets on the roof of his mouth that I
haven't seen before. I talked to my local fish store about him and they
told me to buy some ghost shrimp to see if maybe that would
stimulate him to want to eat <Also good advice> but it hasn't so
far and I am kind of wondering if maybe he has all the blood around his
mouth because he's been trying to get the ghost shrimp. <A worthy
guess> I'm kind of at a loss because I don't know what to do
anymore. My boss tells my I'm to attached but it's hard not to be when
you feed them and care for them everyday. I just don't want him to
suffer if he's going to die. Thanks for your time. <Mmm, not
much to proffer due to a/the lack of information presented re the system
itself... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/zebramdisfaqs.htm and the linked files
above. Bob Fenner> Sand Trouble... dust, in the tank... dude!
11/30/06 Morning fishy folk... <And a good morning to you as
well, David. JustinN with you this morning.> I have a newly
installed 3" CaribSea Aragamax Sugar Sand sandbed in a new 200gallon
setup. The package says little or no rinsing required. I put about
10lbs at a time into a bucket with some freshwater, stirred it up and
then scooped off all the particles as well as the cloudy water. Then
I'd repeat again until the water produced no particles, yet stayed a
little cloudy. <Ok> Anyhow, I have a sump system and
am using a small Fluval filter with sponge material to help clean out
the water. I read in your FAQ's a few times there was the mention to
NOT filter out the sand dust. In other FAQ's you providing tips on how
to filter out the dust. <Simply the result of many minds
working together here, difference of opinions. The finer dusts are more
soluble into the water column as freely buffering the solution. Both
methods will work fine, its all in your patience levels *grin*> It's
been about 10 days and I can JUST now see through to the other side of
the tank. I imagine that the majority of the results are from
filtration, and partly due to some of the dust settling. <Likely a
balance of both here> At this point, all I have is the sand, the
salted water running through my sump/pump, and a small Fluval helping to
clear it up. I think if I put in my liverock to aquascape it will cloud
up again because of the disturbed sand. I'm wondering if I should stir
up the top layer of my sand to cloud the water a bit in hopes of the
filter cleaning it up a bit more for me and getting rid of the settled
dust? <Mmm, too likely to 'make things worse' here> Or if I
should just proceed and likely let the water cloud up again when I place
my cured liverock? <Bingo> The water is milky, not
gritty... my pre-rinsing seems to have taken any fine particles. One of
the first critters I wanted to introduce is a Snowflake eel and I'd
imagine that it'd stir up the sand a little. I guess I'm afraid of it
stirring up the sand frequently throughout the day and me not being able
to view the tank for a week or so after the fact. <Of little concern
here, once all settles> Of note, I am currently using that tiny
Fluval which is rated for tanks up to 40gallons... again, it's only
being used to clean up the dust (it's the filter I use on my quarantine
tank). I wonder if it'd be worth while for me to dish out the $150 for
a filter that could handle up to about 200 gallons?
<Mmm, I would not, with your existing sump. Canister filters can become
nitrate factories very quickly.> With an eel, a lionfish, and other
critters, I'll have messy eaters... The bigger filter would allow me to
better handle carbon, etc... if needed in the future? I see also on
your FAQ's the mention of using DE Filtration? It seems uneconomical to
purchase a DE filter from a pool company just to clear a tank and none
of my retailers have or rent out filters. <There are specialty
filters for aquarium use that will do exactly this, I believe they are
known as diatom filters.> In short, once my tank clears should I be
fine just placing my liverock and living with a bit or a lot of dust
until it eventually all filters out over a month or so? Or, do you
think I should make the purchase of a larger filter? Any harm in a lot
of dust with critters in the water... i.e. them stirring up the sand to
create the dust? I've noticed the dust is like a minor smog in my
aquarium room... you can't see it, but you can smell it. My external
pump also has a fine light white colored dusting on it. <I would
simply add the rock here, and stay the course. All will settle with
time. Do be sure to blast any sediment accumulation on your rock away
after all clears up.> Oh, going off on a tangent here. I was at my
retailers two weeks ago. At the time, a guy was trying to sell back
a Zebra Moray of substantial girth (it must have been a few years
old?). I was quite curious as I've been interested in either a
snowflake or a zebra... so I watched the retailer staff member place it
in an empty tank (which had no cover on it). The eel swam at the
surface for about 30 seconds before it started to jump/spill out over
the top where this staff member goes to grab it with his bare hand
behind it's head to push him back. The eel clamped onto the underside
of this guys wrist to create quite a bit of a mess of this guy.
<Ouch! That's one mistake you don't make too many times...> In
short, even with just the molar crushing teeth... seems like these guys
can still deliver a pretty nasty bite. <Indeed> I'm
building my chain mail glove as we speak... hehehe. Dave <Hehe,
even with chain mail, it would likely still 'hurt like the dickens!" I
would stay the course with your tank as you are currently going, add
your rock when you feel comfortable, and don't sweat the sediment
settling. It will eventually clear, no matter how cloudy it seems. As a
tip, when I've filled tanks after adding oolitic sand, I simply use a
trash bag to cover the surface of the sand, held in place by a dinner
plate. I add the water to the surface of the dinner plate, and when
done, remove all from the tank. I still get a bit of kick-up, but using
this method I was able to add about 30 pounds of sand to my 40 gallon
tank without rinsing, and the water was clear within a day! Hope this
helps you! -JustinN>
Zebra eels Hello Mr. Fenner my name is Joe Reza (aquarist/zoo
keeper) and I have a couple of questions concerning a setup that we
would like to do at my work place (El Paso Zoo). We have 2 tanks that
are approximately 400 gallons each, in our California sea lion exhibit.
<Man, those Zalophus get around! Keep them!> We have decided to
stick with a Baja theme for these 2 aquariums. We would like to put
zebra eels in one tank, which is more of a rectangular shape, but I'm
not sure how many we can keep in this tank. <Mmm, not really social
animals, but can be placed together just the same... don't really have
"teeth" on the principal jaws as many piscivorous muraenids as am sure
you know> I know that hiding spaces are to be taken into account, we
ordered some artificial corals from living color and they provided us
with some pieces that have built in caves. The main piece looks like it
has enough room for 2 or 3 eels ,but I don't know if they would get
along and if they would share the same cave. <Should get
along. Might well co-habit> I also wanted to know if the zebra eel
could be trusted with fish like longnose butterfly or longnose Hawkfish,
<Yes... Gymnomuraena is almost entirely a consumer of crustaceans...
very rarely live fish flesh.> I have read that they are docile and
usually don't prey on fish. The other tank is a bowfront and we have
decided it would be a fish only exhibit for now. There is only one
problem, our local fish store is the only approved vendor at this time
and we had asked him to provide us with a list of fish from the Baja
region that he can obtain. He came up with a fish list of about 10
different species, that include( passer angel, longnose Hawkfish,
longnose butterfly, zebra eel, coral Hawkfish, rainbow wrasse, Mexican
hogfish, black-eyed goby) and we have to stock these 2 tanks with these
fish. I would really appreciate any suggestions or ideas that you can
provide. <Mmm, have this supplier contact me... I will in turn help
them with their suppliers... there are a few more species
collected/available seasonally/periodically> We have no choice,
but to go with these types of fish, since these tanks have to be stocked
pretty soon. I would also like to say that I really enjoy your articles
in TFH and I'm looking forward to meeting you at the IMAC conference in
Chicago, Il. Thank you so much for your time . <Ahh! Look forward
to it... am "cheating" right at this moment, working on responding,
posting while at the WMC conference in Sacto, during Sanjay Joshi's
pitch on light/ing. Cheers, Bob Fenner> Brand New Zebra Moray
1/27/06 Hi - I just got a zebra moray eel! And first of all I
have to thank you for answering questions and putting so much
information up on wetwebmedia - it has been REALLY helpful. <Thanks
for the kind words :)> I have a 180 gallon (fish only) tank, loaded with
live rock and a protein skimmer and UV sterilizer, with about 8
eight other small - medium sized fish. The LFS had him for about a year
and he was very used to being handled and fed very well. He has
adjusted very well, and I have been feeding him clam meat from the fish
counter at the organic grocery store. I did some research before
bringing him home, but I need some clarification on feeding. My LFS was
feeding him everyday (frozen krill or crawdads (with the claws
removed)). And I have been feeding him everyday and he is eating like a
pig - but after doing more reading, I am beginning to see that feeding
him everyday is not encouraged. He actually comes out looking for
food when I feed the other fish, and I have been dropping chunks of
clams (3-5 chunks) and he gobbles them up. (I just ordered a pair of
feeding tongs) Sometimes he misses small pieces, which the other fish
enjoy. So am I overfeeding????? <feeding an eel every day is not
recommended because in the wild they rarely eat daily. they generally
eat a couple to a few times per week..(if that). I would try to feed him
a little less at first, and then begin trying to feed him every other
day. It sounds like he is extremely healthy.> Also if I buy him
shrimp, should it be cooked or raw? Also should the shrimp be peeled or
does the shell offer some nutritional value? <keep the shell and
cooked/uncooked doesn't matter> Also, I have a valentini puffer in
there, will he bother the eel? <he shouldn't' Just as an FYI the other
fish in my tank are (sorry for the common names) Fox face
Freckled face hawk fish Imperator angel (juv) Scopas tang
Clown fish (2) Chalk bass Six-lined wrasse Convict blenny
(3) Thank you so much for taking the time to read my e-mail - it is
greatly appreciated!<sounds like a good mix of fish> Jennifer<good
luck, IanB> Wandering Bubble tip Anemone 11/16/05 I have a
bubble anemone in my 55 gallon tank. They are settled on a 10 pound
piece of live rock at the top (should they be in sand?) <No. BTA's
are reef dwelling. They should be in/on rock.> Days after I got it,
it split in 2 and both were hosted by my 2 perculas I have 1 18000k
light and 2 blue actinic lights in the tank. <Splitting is often
stress induced, so it is no surprise that it occurred when the anemone
was moved.> One anemone became twice as large as it was originally
but the other is constantly moving, has only a few tentacles sometimes,
and is usually closed. The anemone is always in weird shapes and doesn't
look that good. What's happening to it? <It is common for the
"daughter" anemone to move about after a split. It also sounds like
yours may have split very unevenly, possibly due to injury. As long as
the anemone is safe from pump/powerhead inlets, I would let it wander
(not much you can do anyway). If it settles soon, it will probably be
OK, if it doesn't it may not make it, but it sounds like you parent will
be OK. Best Regards. AdamC.> In most of the FAQ pages I read on
Caulerpa, the problem seemed to be on how to get rid of this stuff
rather than my problem. I know some of you (Anthony) prefer Chaetomorpha
rather than Caulerpa, so I thought maybe I should try that instead. Does
the Chaetomorpha have the same nutrient utilization capabilities as the
Caulerpa? <Chaetomorpha does not grow quite as fast as some
Caulerpa, so it does not take up nutrients quite as fast, however it
does seem less sensitive and far less prone to "crash" and re-release
nutrients into the tank. Also, for reef keepers, it is far less noxious
to corals than Caulerpa.> Second question, which is unrelated: I have
an approximately 30" Zebra moray that is very healthy and active, coming
out of the rocks on occasion to take a look around. What I have noticed
though, is that my 4" Bicolor dwarf angel will take bites or nip at the
body of the eel any time he comes near him. The eel will jerk anytime
this happens and it doesn't appear to be doing any damage to the skin,
but I am afraid that it will discourage the eel from coming out and/or
stress him. At this point it is only occasional but thought I would
check with you guys to see if this is anything I should be worried
about. Again thanks for your dedication and help. Steven R. Vejil
<This interaction could go on forever without any serious problem, but
there is a fair risk that the eel will either eat the angel or the angel
will begin to cause injury or intimidate the eel from coming out to eat.
I would suggest separating them, especially if the interaction gets any
worse. Best Regards, AdamC.>
Smooth Hound Zebra Eel combo 11/3/05 Hi, I have just a quick
question. I have read pages and pages of Zebra Eel, and Smooth Hound
Shark articles on various web sites but mostly on WWM. I have acquired a
great deal of knowledge on both species, but my question is can they
coexist in the same aquarium peacefully. I have a 400 gallon aquarium
with 2 Grey Smooth Hounds, a Porcupine Puffer, and a Remora. My father
is getting out of the hobby and has given me his 2 1/2 foot Zebra. Could
this be a peaceful combination? <Could... or not. Hard to feed the
Eel in the presence of the sharks, puffer...> With them both having
poor eyesight and eating similar foods. I want to also mention the
sharks are 1 male and 1 female still babies at about 20 inches, and
the tank is a temp tank and will be moving to larger in a couple years
as they all grow. Thanks for your time, Brandon <Mmm, worth
experimenting... with intermediate temperature to accommodate all... Not
likely to be much inter-species aggression here, but only first-hand
experience can/will tell. Cheers, Bob Fenner> Grouper + Moray Tank
Size 11/1/05 Can a 100cm long Gymnomuraena zebra coexist with a
40cm long Cephalopholis miniata? <In a VERY large tank I see no
problem with this duo.> If so, what capacity tank would be
required? <At least 240-gallons for the two alone, both are very
large and both are very messy.> Apart from prawns and crabs, is
there another kind of food that can partially replace the Gymnomuraena
zebra's diet? <Anything meaty of a marine origin, fresh market fish,
scallops, clam meat, silversides and squid.> Crustaceans are
expensive! <Well it does not have to be live food, both of these
animals are easily weaned to easily attainable frozen fair.> Is a
zebra moray in general much less active than most other commonly kept
morays e.g. Gymnothorax tiles? <I’m not sure about less active but
definitely much more reclusive in my experience.> Some sites state
that it is possible to keep the fishes in a "smallish" tank. However,
personally I feel that 300gallons is sufficient. <Yes as long as it
has plenty of surface area and not jus “show” height. You’ll also want
to have a lot of water flow in this tank to keep to much detritus from
settling as well as a very efficient skimmer for these carnivorous
specimens.> What dimensions and size should the tank be in your
view? <The BEST would be 96”x36”x24” (which would be a little larger
than your looking for at aprox. 350 gallons but not to much more), you
could get away with a 84” or 72” tank length too….but surface area is
definitely the key. Adam J.> Zebra Moray- will it be ok?
8/31/05 Hello, I have been looking at your site over and
over for a long time now and I must say, it is the best
information I have managed to find on eels anywhere! I have two
quick questions to ask which I don't think have been asked before
(at least this specifically). 1. Would a 125 gallon (UK) size tank
be adequate for a zebra moray to live in for its whole
life? <Mmm, likely so> The zebra moray grows to three feet long
but I plan to keep it alone in the aquarium. So
would 125 be enough? If not, what size would you recommend as its
lifetime house? <Well... the "bigger the better"... this species
does grow rather slowly, and lives a good long time... we had some
specimens for teens of years in service accounts...> and question 2
would be: How much live rock should I keep in the aquarium (if its
125 galloons) ? <"Enough" to make caves, yet leave some open space
to move about... two "piles" would be better than a continuous wall>
Is there a way of working out how much is recommended for each
tank size? <Mmm, to some degree... as their is a range of density
and shape of differing rock... You can always add more... but a hundred
pounds or so to start of any type will get you started. Cheers, Bob
Fenner> Many thanks my friends Phillip Moray + Starfish =
OK? Hi, I have a 24" Zebra Moray. He eats everything that I feed
him (squid, shell on prawns, and krill occasionally - all w/VitaChem).
Anyways, I was wondering if I added a Chocolate Chip starfish (my tank
is FOWLR), would he eat it? Thanks! <Should be fine together... Do
read re CCS predilection for dying easily though (on WWM). Bob Fenner>
Sick Zebra Moray Eel My firm has had a Zebra Moray Eel now for
several months and a couple of weeks ago I noticed some white blotches
(which looked somewhat like scars) on his skin. He had been eating his
shrimp well previous to this discovery (3 X a week - which I realize is
probably too many times from reading the other entries), but all of a
sudden he has decided that he is not interested in his food anymore, and
has not eaten much, if at all, over the past couple of weeks. Also
breathing seems somewhat labored and every now and then his whole body
seems to jump or act like it is convulsing (kind-of like a human having
the hiccups). I know we have a service company that comes out 2
times a month and cleans the tank, changes the water, checks the
chemical balance of the water, etc., so I don't think that would be
what's causing his issues, but please tell me if I am wrong in this
assumption. The Zebra Moray Eel is in the tank with several other
fish, but they don't seem to be having any problems since I noticed the
spots on the Eel. Do you think there is any reason to be concerned?
We would appreciate any suggestions or treatments you could give us!
Thanks! <Tracy, being that this tank is serviced by an aquarium
servicing company, I'm thinking they selected the fish to put into it,
correct? If so, I would have them come out and take a look/see. It would
be hard to make an accurate diagnosis with seeing the fish. Has anyone
been cleaning the glass with an ammonia based cleaner? I'm also curious
as to the tank size. James (Salty Dog)> Sick Zebra Moray Eel - II
As it turns out, we actually pick out the fish in the tank. The aquarium
company just tells us what we can and cannot put in there. Besides the
eel, we have the following fish (plus a couple of others that I cannot
identify): Square spot Anthias, Speckled Grouper, Royal Dottyback,
Longnose Hawkfish, Threadfin Cardinalfish, Ocellaris Anemone fish (Clown
Fish); Yellowtail Blue Damselfish, Moon Wrasse, and Purple Tang. I have
been told the tank is 180 gallons. Hope this helps! <Tracy, don't
know what kind of filtering system is employed but none the less this
tank is exceeding its capacity. The eel, grouper and tang all get quite
large. My rule of thumb is one cubic inch (not length) of fish
per five gallons of water. When tanks become overcrowded, the chance for
disease is heightened. I would ask the aquarium maintenance company if
they can remove the eel and treat it at their place for resale. You
really need to reduce the fish load. James (Salty Dog)> |
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