Re: Cyano Bacteria – 10/22/09
Josh,
<Jim>
Somebody told me there was a snail that was excellent for eating Cyano?
Any ideas as to what the snails name is?
<I'm afraid I don't know. But like I said please try to address the causes of the Cyano rather than the symptoms. In the mean time to keep things looking nice try manually siphoning or pulling out the Cyano bacteria to keep things looking nice.>
Thanks
Jim
<Josh Solomon.>

BGA Control: Residue found in Refugium. 8/29/2009
<Hi Jeff.>
Ok Ok here is a new one. I have been having trouble with Red Slime Algae or Cyanobacteria.
<Not an uncommon problem>
First I cleaned everything I could with a little soft brush to get rid of the red coating. Then I got some Chemi Clean and treated the tank.
<Hmm, not a fan of chemical controls. It kills the slime, but does not correct the underlying cause of the slime.>
I have also replaced all the lamps and all the filters in my RO unit, and reduced the amount of food I was giving.
<Ok, Good, so you are taking steps to correct the root cause as well then.>
I think I was overloading the auto feeder but the lamps were a year old and the filters were at least 6 months.
<6 month old filters?>
I had to leave for a day so I treated it with Chemi Clean before I left thinking I would do the 20% water change on my return day.
<That is fine.>
I get home and everything looks pretty good in the tank (180 gallon) and I go down to my 55 gallon refugium and no red to be found spotless..Awesome!!!!
But I see something I never saw before and I have no idea what it is. On the bottom of the refugium right above the 5" live sand bed there is a milky film just hovering above the sand about half an inch think.
<Die off from the red slime and anything else it may have taken out. Plus since you let for a day, I assume the skimmer was still off from the treatment.>
Looks like what I have seen on TV when salmon fertile there eggs. There is a 5" sand bed, two pieces of live rock about 5-6" round and a 4" thick 12" x 18" Macro algae and a few copepods or something of that nature in the refugium...nothing to make "sperm". Do you have any idea what this could be and how much of a heart attack mode should I be in?
<I would siphon it out as soon as possible.>
It also look like there are 1/4" long and as thin as thread worms stuck to the glass at this same level. Some appear to be moving and some do not.
They almost look like scratches in the glass more then worms but I just don't know. What in the world is going on?????
<Red slime that wasn't killed settling down and feasting on the dead remains.>
Main tank as 2 Tangs, 3 clowns, 1 cardinal, 1 Angel, 5 chromis, 1 Foxface, 1 harlequin tusk, 2 butterflies, 4 turbo snails... so about 16 total 5-6" fish. I also have sump with a giant protein skimmer, some rubble rock, a bag of bio balls and a regular white filter pad. The water comes from the main tank and about 1/4 goes through the refugium and then overflows into the sump and the other 3/4 goes direct to the sump..............
<Sounds good. You are on the right track correcting the causes of the red slime. Keep correcting and removing the slime as you see it. It takes time, but you will win eventually. Remember, NOTHING good happens quickly in a SW tank.>
Jeff
<MikeV>

Slime algae, snails and feather dusters 8/26/2009
Hello Crew,
Thank you for such an informative site and for helping those of us born before computers and not search savvy. We all appreciate your efforts.
<Welcome>
My ongoing saga of a 75 Gallon FOLWR that has been through Caulerpa which I liked but now long gone, then hair algae which no one liked and wouldn't go until I removed all the live rock and scrubbed it in fresh water, which naturally made it dead rock. Next on deck was red slime algae coating the bottom.
<Sort of reverse desired succession eh?>
In conjunction with a household move, I replaced the tank with a new one, I replaced the sand with brand new live sand and dipped and rinsed the dead rock new salt water. I preserved 50 gallons of the existing water but filtered it through a Vortex Diatom filter. Remember them?
<I do... they're still about>
While in the transport tub the water tested 0 for phosphates, but within a week the red slime algae was back.
<W/o competition, predation, why not?>
Livestock is 2 clowns, one coral beauty and a yellow tang plus 2 turbo and 4 Nassarius snails. In recent months the rock has begun to develop shades of dark red and medium green and appears that life is slowly returning. Then last week we have the first feather dusters, 6 on them, but they're growing from the sand rather than on the rock and therein lies the problem: Unless the brand new live rock contained it or the test kit failed to detect it I don't have a phosphate problem
<Mmmm; possibly... there are other inputs, consequences>
in the tank and the feedings are down to one pinch every other day, but I still have the Red Slime Algae problem. One thing I'd like to do is add some livestock that would disturb or churn the sand. My first thought was more Nassarius snails except as I recall, they'll eat the feather dusters if they're in the sand.
<Again, maybe>
First, will a sufficient quantity of snails keep the sand churned and aerated and second, if so are Nassarius the best snails given the situation?
<The genus is amongst the best available, yes>
Thanks Again,
Allen
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Cyano From New Live Rock 6/23/09
Hi,
<Hello Barry>
the two items in the subject line aren't related, but since my parameters are important I should probably address that too.
<OK>
The system is a 90g with 30g sump (18g actual water level) mixed reef, under 6x54w T5 lighting, 2 Koralia 4's for flow and a Mag 5 return pump.
Skimming is a large recirc skimmer (big recirc pump, small feed pump for max contact time). Bioload is probably on the high side of medium, if that makes sense.
On to the problem:
I recently purchased a ~8 pound piece of LR for my tank from a LFS. I had plenty for the purpose of filtration, this was just for aesthetics. I examined it closely and saw only sand and detritus around the base. I washed it in SW and put it in place.
24 hours later, I have a Cyano outbreak. 80% of it is on that rock, so no doubt in my mind it is the source. In retrospect, it was under VERY weak lighting (standard home-type fluorescents), so I guess when I got it home my strong lighting gave it a jump-start.
<Generally, intense lighting is detrimental to Cyano.>
This Cyano is stringing from my other rocks and corals, and all my softies (plus my RBTA) are very ticked off.
The rock was removed once I discovered this, and is in a bucket with a powerhead and heater until I figure out what to do with it.
I have read here about Cyano treatment, and I understand the basics of beating it. Since my only previous encounter was small and brief, I think (hope?) my reef conditions are OK for me to beat it once the offending source was removed... however, I am skimming wetter, doing more water changes (25 gallons in two days so far) and reducing feeding until this is under control. Is 12g/day a safe amount to change while this is going on?
<I would not do that much, I'd syphon the Cyano out as needed and replace the discarded water with fresh sea water and watch your feeding as you mention above.>
Should I consider adding another powerhead or two temporarily? I have enough flow to keep the corals happy, but if it will help my battle I have a couple of spare MaxiJet 1200s I could throw in.
<As long as your total flow is around 900-1000gph, you should be fine here.>
And, obviously, the rock must be dealt with. Should I just "nuke" this rock, or will darkness, time and lack of nutrients take care of it?
<You could keep the rock in a container (plastic pail, etc) of nutrient free sea water with a small powerhead for circulation. A light scrubbing as needed and rinsing the rock under a different source of sea water should return the rock to a healthy state.
Monitor/observe until no Cyano reappears.>
For the record, my parameters are:
SG 1.024
pH 8.6
dKH 11
phosphates .5ppm (were undetectable until the rock showed up)
ammo/trite/trate all 0
Ca 325
<A little low.>
Mag 1050
<Try to keep that mg around 1280-1300>
As you see, I also battle high pH.
<Not dangerously high, and your test kit could be reading high.>
I don't dose anything other than SLOWLY raising the Ca and Mag. It has been suggested to me that once calcium and mag are raised to their correct levels, the (what I'm told is high) alkalinity and pH should fall in line.
Is this a correct line of thinking?
<Not necessarily, do read here and related articles.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
Briefly, keeping the magnesium at a proper level (1280-1200), allows the entire measured calcium level to be available for calcium loving animals.
With your indicated magnesium level, less than 300ppm of calcium is only available to the corals. Magnesium is a major element of sea water and should be maintained at NSW levels, especially so when keeping calcium loving animals.>
Thank you for your time and dedication to helping me and others like me who need it!
<You're welcome. Keep reading/learning my friend. James (Salty Dog)>

Cyanobacteria 5/25/09 Dear Bob, Mr. Calfo, <Hello, Scott V. with you today.> I have big problem with Cyanobacteria which has spread out on my Acropora on peaks, I am trying to blow them with turkey baster everyday, but it seems it will not want to leave. When I am blowing Acropora's peaks-end also some part of tissue is damaged and coral is losing zooxanthellae. I have tried to bath coral in tropic Marin pro cure but Cyano is retrieving back. <This will not do it.> Cyano was caused by my mistake that I have put china MH bulbs instead good ones. Please help! <Well, in the end there are other fueling factors behind the BGA besides the light, see: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm There are other factors at play. As for your corals, you will need to figure out what is causing the BGA to be so competitive. Until then keep blowing off what you can.> Re: Cyanobacteria 5/26/09 Ok, thank you so much, I will keep trying. <Welcome, this battle can be won! This is a mild case, you have caught it early. Scott V.>

Red algae... please help! 09/20/09
Hello Bob and crew!
<Jas... no sense sending msg.s twice...>
I hope everyone is great. It’s been a while since I have harassed you (which is hopefully a good indicator), but once again, I am in need of your expertise! In mid January of this year, I upgraded from my 72 gallon tank to a 120 gallon. I have also made many strides forward with my set up. I am now running a chiller, RO/DI, a calcium reactor, 2 Tunze power heads with the multi controller, better bulbs in my light fixture (2 X 240 metal halide Giesemann 1300K), as well as a Tunze ATO set up. I have also ordered a Mini Bubble King 180 skimmer.  (I am currently using the Aqua C EV 240, but have not been blown away by the results to be honest). About 2 months ago, I noticed a little bit of Cyano forming on my sand. I was very confused by this, as my po4 tests had shown less than .03 on the test kit. I figured I’d better get a second opinion so I took a sample of water to my LFS.  They tested it with a digital test kit and it was 7.5!!! I purchased a couple Phosban reactors and a digital test kit. Since then I have gotten my po4 to .03 and the Cyano has been gone for at least 1 month now.
<... the test... "results" are likely skewed by the Cyano uptaking soluble phosphate>
My fish and SPS seem to be doing very well. I guess you’re wondering when I am going to get to the point ;-)… So… here is my new problem. I had beautiful purple coralline algae growing on all my rocks but it seems to have been covered with this red fuzzy algae (see photo). My tangs pick at it and I have picked up a couple of urchins to try and cut it down, but it doesn’t seem to be giving in without a fight. My tank (unfortunately) receives a lot of sunshine (no choice) and I suspect this isn’t helping. I do 15 to 20 gallon water changes weekly with aerated RO/DI water, my no3 tests at less than 1 (confirmed by LFS tests).
<See re HPO4 above>
I have also cut down my feeding as well and I have been rinsing the food. I don’t know what else to try to get rid of this stuff. I really want to see my coralline algae… not this fuzzy red crap J. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
<See WWM re Cyano control... this is what it/this is. BobF, on painfully slow Net "access" in Sulawesi>
Thanks again for all your wonderful help.
Jason

Re: Cyano Control - Glass Tops (Bob, do you really recommend these?- Sara M.)  5/11/09
Hello:
<Hello Tom>
I want to thank the crew for providing a wealth of knowledge.
<our pleasure>
Wanted to give feedback on my tank condition. My first email was 1/13 or 1/14/09 and here it is May already and I am still combating Cyano but with noticeable success. It is a very slow process but I can clearly see the LR has growing spots of pink algae emerging. I guess like most humans we hope for the quick fix and seem to get discouraged when results are not achieved overnight. The advice I was give was to do water changes which I have been doing 1 to 2 times per week and making sure there was good water flow.
Also changing the activated carbon every 2 weeks and trying to feed properly. Now I am encouraged because I do see results!
<Great! And good for you for being patient and sticking with it! With marine aquarium keeping, it is definitely true that "slow and steady wins the race.">
By the way I have a question. Is it better to have a glass top on the tank or not.
<Glass tops are almost always a very bad idea for marine aquariums. It's difficult to maintain proper pH in a covered tank because you just don't usually get nearly as much gas exchange as when the tank is left
uncovered.>
I used to have one on my 46 bow with the compact fluorescent light fixture sitting on top and it cracked and instead of replacing it I bought supports to hold the light fixture up. For some reason I thought it was better to have evaporation but I was reading The Conscientious Marine Aquarist 2nd edition and it was mention to have a top.
<Really? Can you tell me what page? I'm surprised Bob would recommend such... and don't remember seeing that part.>
<<A good idea in most cases to have some sort of "top" to reduce the very common incidence of life leaving a system.... but if glass (or acrylic) is used, very important to keep it clean (for light transmission mostly)... the salt spray, splash removed, algae off... RMF>>
Best Regards
Tom
<Best,
Sara M.>

SW Water Quality Issues: Silicates\TDS RO/DI Softeners, etc. 5/4/2009
<Hello again Penny,>
I recently bought a silicate test (Seachem) and a TDS Meter and what an eye opener these two purchases were.
<Hehehe, they usually are.>
Our house runs off of a 400ft well. I have a home RO unit (no DI) and have recently changed all filters and membranes so these numbers are as good as it gets so far:
Tap water: 1090 TDS!
RO water: 109 TDS! (so 90% removal rate)
<Less than optimal, but not surprising. What is the water pressure\temperature? out of the tap?>
Silicates in tank are about 4-5
<A bit high.>
I have some problems with Cyano blooms, could this be because of the 4-5 reading?
<No>
I know is s/b 0 but is 4-5 a horrible number? It's not off the chart but higher than I like.
<Not horrible, but lower is better>
I run two Phosban reactors (TLF's), one has carbon and the other has Rowaphos (recently switched
to this from another brand-last water change). I am hoping the Rowaphos helps brings down the silicate readings, it says it aids in silicate removal, is this true?
<Yes it does.>
All my water changes have been done with water from a drive thru dispensing machine which I have checked and it has 3 TDS's which is stellar compared to my crappy water, and 0 for silicates. But I was
using my 109 RO water for the ATO on my 90g tank. I assume this is where my silicates have come from.
<Likely so.>
I am now using all store bought water for everything. I am hoping this will help turn around my Cyano blooms???
<It certainly cannot hurt, but if you remember the articles I referred to you earlier, Cyano is normally caused by excess organic nutrients and\or a lack of competition for what nutrients are there.>
Again, I am not sure how bad 4-5 is as a silicate reading. I am having a water treatment guy (rep from the drive thru water source) come to my house and assess my situation and hopefully get me on track to being able to use my own water source. I was told by my LFS that adding two DI add on units would greatly help my situation, do you think this is true??
<You will see positive results with a DI unit. I'm not sure if two are necessary.>
I was also told by the rep guy that my water softener (which is not working properly anyways) is really not big enough to handle my TDS/ Hardness count, I should have a bigger model. Do you think this is BS?? It makes a bit of sense to me that the softener does dissolve some of the hardness and solids in the water.
<By default, you should not use water from a water softener for an aquarium. Straight RO\DI from the tap is better For that matter, what does your tap water test out for straight from the tap.>
I am having to do weekly/bi weekly water changes to keep the Cyano in check on the sandbed which is costing me a fortune in store bought water now that I am using it for everything (ATO is about 2-3g a day!).
<Hmm, I wonder if it would be better to get a dedicated RO\DI system for your tank. It will probably be cheaper in the long run.>
So do you think I am on the right track with the above mentioned things?
<I would not use a softener for your aquarium water, otherwise, yes.>
Will the Rowaphos help with silicates?
<Yes, it will>
Will water changes bring them down enough or should I buy a silicate remover product? If so which one?
<Rowaphos is fine.>
And could the 4-5 silicates be causing my blooms?
<No>
My tank is a 90 gallon, about 3-4 months old, 100lbs+ LR, 1.5" SB, 3 Vortech MP40's for movement, 2x250w MH 14,500K (Giesemann), 2xActinic Plus T5's (Giesemann), Eheim 1262 for return pump, Bubble king 180 skimmer, Nitrite-0, Nitrate-0, Phosphate-0, Ammonia-0.
Is there a clean up crew that deals with cleaning the sandbed better?
I don't have dead spots really but am wondering if something other than crabs (don't eat it) will eat the Cyano? Or keep the sandbed mixed up.
<There are several creatures that will keep your sandbed mixed up. Read here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsiftfaqs.htm >
My fish are: Hippo tang, yellow tang, Foxface, 2 blk clowns, 1 Sixline, 1 lawnmower blenny. Stocking OK?
<Yep.>
Everyone gets along great.
My lighting timers are Actinics from 9:30am-8:30pm, MH's are from 11:15am-7pm. Is this too long of a span?
<You can reduce it a bit to help with the Cyano problem.>
Sorry for the long winded email.
<No worries.>
One last question.... Do you guys have an address where cases of beer can be delivered for providing such a great service???
<Heheheh.>
Thanks for all your help, you guys are the life savers of the SW community!!
<My pleasure>
<Mike>

Re: SW Water Quality Issues: Silicates\TDS RO/DI Softeners, etc. 5/5/2009
I don't use my softener water for my tank directly. The well water runs through the softener first before heading to the RO unit. I also have purchased a booster pump which I forgot to mention before for my
RO unit.
<Ahh, OK.>
I tested my "straight from well" water and it's 1130 TDS.
Water through our ill functioning softener is 1100. Water through our RO is 93. These are numbers as of 5 minutes ago. You were asking about pressure, our house pressure tank is set at 50/20. But for the RO unit
I do have a booster pump. Do you have any good brand suggestions for an add on DI unit(s)?
<I buy my RO\DI equipment from these guys -
http://www.thefilterguys.biz/index.htm >
I have been dosing Kent's Marine Buffer for PH/Alk levels to keep my Alk at about 9. Could this be a Cyano causer?
<Possible.>
I don't dose every day, maybe once a week but ever since I started dosing it my Cyano started.
Nothing before then.
<Keep up the water changes and stop adding the buffer. I've found that not adding any supplements when fighting Cyano does seem to help.> >
I have been trying to find someone who has Chaeto in Canada as no doubt I can't ship it across the line. How big of a chunk do you need growing to be beneficial?
<A small chunk is fine, it will grow very quickly in the right conditions.>
I am just stumped as to my Cyano cause.
<I know the feeling - been fighting it myself - I'm finally winning. It does take time. I've been fighting it for a month.>
I don't feel I am over feeding. I am not one of those people who do no research before getting into this hobby. I feel I have really great husbandry skills and am willing to do whatever it takes to solve this. I keep hoping it will go away with all my water changes and lack of feeding.
Thank you again for such a fast response. I am still needing an address to ship the beer to.
<Heheheh I'll have to have Bob chime in here. The shipping costs to Florida would be astronomical.>
<<Maybe we can just swing by your place to tip a few? RMF>>
Thanks again.
<My pleasure>
Penny
<Mike>

Re: Algae ID: BGA\Cyano 4/20/2009
Ok (crap).
<Hehehe Fighting a minor outbreak myself, I understand the sentiment >
I have a good skimmer, good flow, carbon etc.
<Which is good, as I said, it is not at all uncommon in "new" systems>
So basically light feedings and siphon up the infected sandbed and wash it in FW and replace?
<I would just try to siphon the algae up, but this would work as well.>
Should I increase my water changes from once a week to 2 or 3 times?
<10 - 15% once a week is standard. You can do smaller, more frequent changes for the time being.>
I have a UV, I hope that might help. I always turkey baster the LR before siphoning for the WC.
<Very good.>
How often do tangs need food? I have a yellow tang, Foxface and hippo tang. I want to feed less but have read tangs need constant grazing.
Two light feedings a day?
<They are constant grazers, two light feedings per day plus some green or red algae for them to munch on For my tang, I add a strip of sushi Nori i the morning, and remove it in the afternoon.>
Sorry to be a pain.
<Not at all.>
Thanks.
<My pleasure>
Penny
<Mike>

BGA\Cyanobacteria Follow up: 4/22/2009
I wrote in the other day about my sandbed becoming brown (grey brown) with bubbles appearing at night.
<Hi Penny, it's Mike>
My LR seems unaffected so far.
<Very good.>
I was told by you it was Cyano which is a bummer to say the least. It has not yet turned into the red carpet as I have seen in pictures.
<It can appear in multiple colors.>
Although because of the thought of it I have been doing 15 gallon water changes on my 90 gallon tank (30 gallon sump about half full) I do these changes on Wed's and Sundays to keep it from getting bad (I hope).
The more I read about it the more I wonder what is causing it in my tank, all my levels are zero.
<Again, not at all uncommon in a new system.>
I tested the phosphate, nitrite, nitrate, ammonia. My Alk was lowish a while back so I have been dosing with Kent Marine buffer to raise it.
That's all I dose.
If all my levels are zero how could this happen? I read online that the ammonia, nitrate, and phosphate levels elevated normally trigger an outbreak. My tank is about 3 months along now and I can't for the life of me figure this out.
<I'm fighting a minor outbreak myself and all my readings are zero as well.
Zero means the nutrients are being consumed as fast as they are produced.>
I have a bubble king 180 skimmer which should be good enough shouldn't it?
(it cost 1000.00 so I assume it is a better one).
<No direct experience with this model, but I have not read anything negative about them,>
I have two Phosban reactors running, one with carbon, one with the Phosban stuff. I have three Vortechs for
movement at almost full tilt, stuff doesn't seem to settle. I tried to buy the best stuff I could to eliminate problems of low flow and light.
<All sounds good.>
I have 2x250 MH's, 14,500Kelvin that run from 11am till 7pm. I have 2xT5's (actinic blue) that are on from 9:30 till 8:30. Is my lighting all wrong? I have no fuge in my sump.
<Adding some macroalgae can help in soaking up any excess nutrients that the BGA is feeding on.>
My return pump is an Eheim 1262 and I have a Aqua Step UV sterilizer running, would it be causing the problem?
<No.>
Please help as I don't know what I am doing wrong.
<You aren't doing anything 'wrong".>
My fish are 1 blue hippo tang, 1 yellow tang, 1 Foxface and two blk clowns. I feed lightly twice daily and put seaweed sheets out for the tangs in a clip once a day (1.5"x4" long of grn and purple seaweed). I can't think of anything I am missing for info so I hope this will help. Should I be keeping up with my twice weekly water changes or am I wasting my time?
<Keep up with the water changes and try to physically remove as much of the Cyano as you can. It will take a bit of time to get it cleared up, but it will.>
As I mentioned all tests are zero which is odd for a Cyano outbreak isn't it?
<Not at all unusual.>
Fish have been in for 1.5 months now.
Thanks so much and sorry for emailing again.
<No Worries.>
You guys are life savers though, keeping everyone sane(ish). ha ha
Penny
<Mike>

Attacking Cyanobacteria-You might find this interesting 3/19/09
http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/general-discussion/55855-attacking-cyano
bacteria.html
<Hmmm, well, the problem with this process is that it just kills the BGA.
The stuff then just releases all the nutrients that fueled it in the first place back into the water.
It also does not treat whatever is the fueling factor for the growth in the first place. Like the thread says, repeat this every two months or so, but some do not need to....if it is just a new tank and all else in
done correctly this will work.
If there is some factor spurring the growth other than the instability of a new tank and the curing of
the rock, there will be trouble...this will need to be repeated. Who wants to shut the lights off on their corals every few weeks or months?
But, siphoning out the BGA is far more effective in my experience (it actually exports all the junk!!) and if the fueling factor is not remedied the whole action is disputable. I do very greatly thank you for sharing this with us. It will be posted for others to make their own decision....I just personally see problems with the
technique itself. Scott V.>

Re: attacking-Cyanobacteria-you might find this interesting  3/20/09
Thanks Scott.
<Welcome.>
The problem that most of us have is that we try various methods to reduce nutrients but the Cyano stays around for months.
<Yeah, the stuff makes you want to beat your head on the wall, I know!>
And although things improve it is a very slow process and at times seems like we are getting nowhere. And all during this time you are siphoning.
If we were to begin a program to reduce nutrients and then once initiated do some aggressive siphoning followed a 3 day lights off. That should get us a bit of a head start on the Cyano. Then if the nutrient controls are in place it should prevent reinfection.
<For sure, just another tool to use!> 

Re: Cyanobacteria/BGA 3/26/09
Hello,
<Matthew.>
I'm still having Cyano outbreaks in my reef tank. Today I checked alk. and it was very low 5.8kH
Because it was so low, I'm thinking the Cyano had a chance to colonize over the coralline within the tank. Even snail shells had Cyano on them. I then checked my cal. reactor and realized the co2 input was too low and effluent was dripping too slow. Made changes and hopefully with a more stable and higher kH (around 9.6-10kh) I will avoid future Cyano. Does this theory sound right to you? Good algae vs. bad and stability of parameters esp. kH values...??
<Instability in general does make it hard for the BGA's competition to outcompete it. Having the KH constant is a definite step towards overcoming.>
Thanks,
Matthew
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Cyanobacteria/BGA 3/17/09
Hey Scott,
<Matthew.>
Apparently i may have discovered what has been causing areas of BGA in my tank.
<Ahh, good.>
I thought this morning after diagnosing BGA, I'd give my tank a little detritus cleanup... as i was siphoning underneath the back layers of my live rocks, a rotting blue Linckia star stuck to my siphon tube and I pulled its stinking rotting carcass out of there...
<A fueling force for sure...doubtful it is THE fueling factor though.>
Being that this reddish algae is more of a "bacteria", wouldn't it make sense that this stuff would appear from the presence of a source of ammonia/rotting starfish?
<Yes, it does.>
I then added a bag of carbon, cleaned skimmer, replaced sock, did 10 gallon w/c. Hopefully the Cyano will go away in the next week or 2 right?
<With other proper practices it will diminish...don't expect it to go away too fast. Generally the BGA will die off in good conditions, re polluting the tank fueling more. It is best to keep up on the water changes and siphon what you can of the BGA out.>
-Matthew

Re: Cyanobacteria/BGA 3/18/09
Which "other proper practices" might you be recommending in preventing BGA?
<Proper feeding, maintenance, stocking and water flow.>
I forgot to mention I've been taking a powerhead and blowing off detritus out of the holes/crevices around my reef to let the stuff go to the overflows and be taken out from the sock. Furthermore i do not have a sandbed in this tank, its a coralline bottom so detritus is at a bare minimum within the tank. Tested phos between 0-0.1ppm & Nitrate 0-2.5ppm
I had another small 1.5" red sea star die also about several weeks ago which wasn't physically removed from the tank, which may also have fueled the Cyano. That was a bad purchase of those starfish on my behalf that day from the wholesaler, they were not in the healthiest condition when i got them woops...
Now that there are no more rotting things in my tank I'm hoping this Cyano goes away, i hate seeing bubbles & patches grow all over my healthy purple rock. I got plenty of flow in there so that shouldn't be an issue.
<Good.>
Its a little challenging to siphon this stuff off, it will not easily come out, a tooth brush has been my best tool so far, but i guess the Cyano is composed of toxins that physically need to come out directly perhaps siphon if possible...
<Removing it is good practice.>
wouldn't the skimmer and filter sock remove remnants from toothbrush removal?
<Yes, this is fine.>
-Matthew
<Scott V.>

Re: Cyanobacteria/BGA 3/26/09
Hey Scott,
<Matthew.>
I'm always finding something new...I overlooked my tank flow situation. I've been using 2 Tunze streams and it occurred to me that maybe the covers to the pumps were clogged and indeed they were...this dramatically reduced the flow in my tank to almost half of their capacity maybe less. After clearing them of algal clumps and bubble algaes, the pumps were a lot more forceful moving much more water. Because of this, the efficiency of my system is back to the way it was and my skimmer is pulling much more stuff faster.
<Good.>
Probably THE reason for the gradual Cyano outbreak? more so than calcium or kH issues....
<It is definitely a big factor. Without adequate flow detritus can settle and basically rot in your tank rather than being pulled out by the filtration system. You are well one your way here.>
-Matthew

Re: Cyanobacteria/BGA 3/30/09
Scott,
Despite fixing flow, performing 50% water change, power heading off detritus and tooth brushing Cyano off, siphoning detritus from tank bottom, cleaning skimmer, adding fresh PhosGuard to Phosban reactor....still the stuff has not died out and continues to plague my tank in certain areas.
<Hmmm, it will take some time.>
After talking with another fish service guy I know, he claims that ChemiClean powder does the trick pretty good. You mentioned to me before not to use algicides and the manufacturer claims this isn't an algaecide and that its reef safe, can be read on here:
http://www.marvelousproducts.com/Chemiclean-Red-Slime-Algae-Remover-p/chemiclean.htm
<It is not an algaecide...it is an antibiotic....>
What do you think about this? I have done great maintenance on my tank as recommended and keep feeding down to a minimum. Still no luck and maybe this is the answer?
<Nope, the start of a headache.>
I really have not discovered the true root cause of this continual outbreak. Your thoughts on this appreciated.
-Matthew
<Do see WWM regarding what I and others have to say about the stuff and it will all be clear.  ScottV.>

Green Cyano – 03/05/09
Hi,
<<Howdy JD>>
I brought about 50 pounds of live rock from a guy who was taking down his salt water tank. The tank and rock was covered with what he called green Cyano (it looked more yellow tan). When you picked up a rock and moved it around some of this slime would come off. My question is, can I do anything to this rock to clean it, treat it, to get rid of this slime?
<<Likely, yes>>
I have it seating in a 32gal trash can with a heater and a power head going in low light. Is there anything I can do to use this rock in my show tank? Please advise.
Thanks,
JD
<<It will take a bit of effort, but you can salvage this rock. Set up another trash can with fresh saltwater, a heater, and a powerhead for circulation…then…using a smaller container with more fresh saltwater, scrub and rinse the rock in the small container and transfer to the fresh trash can. Once done, empty the old trash can and remix new saltwater to cure for the next session. After a few days, fill the smaller container with fresh saltwater again and scrub/rinse the rock and transfer again to the “fresh” trash can of saltwater. Keep repeating this process every few days (three or so) until the Cyanobacteria no longer manifests itself on the rock between sessions (then give it another week in the trash can just to be sure). Regards, EricR>>

Re: Green Cyano – 03/07/09
Eric,
<<Hello Jeff>>
One last couple of questions.
<<Okay>>
Can it have any effect on the saltwater fish?
<<It can (is toxic)…though more often than not in my experience outbreaks of Cyanobacteria are mainly just unsightly, or causing harm to sessile invertebrates by covering/overgrowing rather causing problems with fishes. At any rate it is best avoided…and introducing to your system live rock which is infested/covered with Cyano is not recommended>>
What causes it and will it come back?
<<It can be fostered in a number of ways/by a number of factors (please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm), and yes, given the same favorable circumstances it will come back…time and again>>
Jeff
<<EricR>>

Cyanobacteria (Red Slime algae) takeover, Sm. SW, reading – 02/28/09
Hi there. My tank is currently completely dominated by Cyanobacteria. I have read the article about it on your site as well as others, and have tried numerous measures to no avail (water changes, siphoning, feeding less, no additives, etc.). I do not have any powerheads but have a Koralia nano fan that turns over 240gph (I've got a 15 gal. tank.) Also, I do not have a protein skimmer; I only have a hang-on Aqueon 30 powerfilter. Would adding a powerhead or two make any major difference
<No>
or do I need to invest in a protein skimmer?
<This latter...>
I have been reluctant to do so because most are so expensive and I have only a 15gal set-up. What is my best option for knocking this stuff out?
-Nick
<More reading evidently: http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and the linked files above. You have some other options you don't mention
awareness of. Bob Fenner>

Salt Mix and Cyano/BGA – 02/11/09
Hello Crew,
<<Hiya Mark>>
Love the site and use it often.
<<Me too!>>
I've been battling BGA in my 90 gal reef for about 4-6 months now.
<<Not atypical mate…once entrenched it is very difficult to eradicate>>
Tank was setup in April of 2008. I've written to you previously about this and got some good advice.
<<Ah…good>>
After increasing the light over my refugium the Chaeto in my sump finally started growing and the BGA subsided.
<<Excellent>>
In December I thought I had this stuff beat. I had also removed my larger sized Aragonite and replaced it with the sugar fine sand.
<<Another good move…but do you also have lots of vigorous water flow to help keep detritus in suspension?>>
I make my own RODI water, and do 10 gal changes every week.
<<Hmm… I might consider increasing the time betwixt changes (say 10% every two weeks or even 20% every month) to see if unfinished chemical processes, or introduction of fuels/pollutants from the salt mix, isn’t causing the problem>>
Auto top-off is buffered RODI water. Tests 0 TDS. Well it subsided for a while and is now back. I haven't changed anything other than adding a few small coral frags which are doing well. I don't feel like I'm overfeeding, none of the fish food ever hits the bottom, and I feed my corals only once per week, less than an 1/8 tsp of Coral Frenzy. I have a small Hammer & Torch, small frag of Zoanthids, small frag of Blastomussa wellsi, an orange plate coral, and a couple of Hawaiian Feather Dusters. All fish and corals are doing just fine. Water Chemistry is just fine, I'm not registering any Nitrates because it's bound up in the Chaeto and BGA,
<<Indeed…as is any Phosphate>>
Ammonia Nitrite, zeros. No measurable Phosphate. I do not have a Magnesium test kit.
<<Get one (Seachem)… Ensuring optimum water parameters for your corals health/vitality/growth will help with battling the BGA>>
Calcium 425, dKH 9, pH over 8 and steady. System set up in late April 2008: Tank: 90 gal acrylic, with 1 center overflow. I modified the standard drain and increased it to 1.5" and made a stand-pipe for noise reduction.
<<Ah!... Very good>>
Approx. 60-70 lbs of Live Rock, and less than an inch of aragonite substrate, sugar fine.
<<Okay>>
Filtration: I built a 3 compartment acrylic sump, with dimensions of 30"x18"x18". Total volume of the sump under operation is about 20 gal. A 6 gal Inlet area holds an AquaC EV-120 running on a Mag 5, produces well.
<<Indeed…a very good skimmer…and a great company with excellent customer service>>
The 6 gal center compartment is for return via a MAG 7, and the 8 gal right compartment serves as a refugium that over flows back to the center for return. The tank drain is split off with most of the raw water going to the Skimmer, and flow to the refugium is controlled with a gate-valve. I have over 4" of aragonite (1-2mm size) in the refugium along with a clump of Chaetomorpha. I'm running a bag of carbon in the sump return area, as well as Seachem PhosGuard.
<<I’m a huge fan of Seachem’s products…but for this one (Aluminum is known to be harmful to corals/inverts). I suggest you switch from this Aluminum/Alumina based Phosphate remover to an Iron-based product…and utilize a fluidized reactor re>>
There is no "filter media" in this system. None of the pumps has the foam suction filter on it. The only Mechanical filtration is the skimmer.
<<I see>>
Lighting:
Tank has (2) 150W 10K Coralife Metal Halide Fixtures (new bulbs in October 08) and 2x55 watt PC Actinics for looks. Metal halides are on for about 10 hrs, Actinics come on in the morning, go off, and come on again in the evening.
<<Sounds fine>>
The question I have regards my salt mix.
<<Ahh….>>
I use Reef Crystals and I just looked at the description of it on a web site: "Formulated for reef aquarists. The first salt mix to contain an extra measure of calcium, selected trace elements, and vitamins to assure extended availability of substances that are depleted very quickly in thriving reef aquariums. Also helps detoxify harmful copper and other heavy metals often found in domestic water supplies."
I noticed that the last time I did a water change after removing as much BGA as I could by hand, that the BGA returned more quickly than when it does if I don't do a water change and just remove the BGA.
<<Mmm…>>
The description says something about vitamins. Was wondering if this could be fueling the BGA?
<<Could be I suppose… I too experienced a like incident with this salt mix. In fact, I have a problem with Aquarium Systems salt products altogether. I used Instant Ocean for more than 30 years until the company went through an owner/management change which then coincided with me receiving multiple batches of bad salt mix for months (everything from not-before-seen inconsistencies in Alk and Calcium levels between orders, to buckets coming to me as SOLID BLOCKS). This went on for almost a year…it pained me to do so, but I have moved on to another salt mix as a result>>
I also removed some of my LR and rinsed it in tank water during the last change. Grasping at straws here?
<<Perhaps not>>
Should I look at another salt mix like Tropic Marin?
<<I LOVE Tropic Marin…but dang is it expensive! You won’t go wrong if you choose do so…but also have a look at the excellent offerings from Seachem (is what I now use)>>
I don't want to spend more money on salt if it's not going to help.
<<Understood… But I do consider the Seachem salts to be superior over what you are using now>>
This junk covers my substrate about every 3 days with a very thin film, and is getting into my LR now.
<<I do think changing salt mixes is worth a try>>
Thanks,
Mark
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

Re: Salt Mix and Cyano/BGA - 02/12/09
Thanks EricR,
<<Welcome Mark>>
I forgot to mention that I also drilled the tank for a closed-loop.
<<Excellent>>
I have a MAG 18 running a loop around the top, with 4 outlets, 1/2" each.
<<Ah! Super>>
I'd say I have decent circulation in the tank, but it's not excessive.
<<Okay>>
As far as testing for magnesium levels, I've read that as long as you use a quality salt mix and do regular water changes that it should the magnesium levels should remain in a good ratio with the calcium.
<<Indeed, all things being perfect…but these small bits of captive ocean we strive to keep are usually anything but. I by no means want to dissuade you or anyone else from doing frequent partial water changes as I think this IS the single best maintenance practice. And it’s very possible you are correct in your assumption re the Magnesium levels… But when things go awry…as has happened with your Cyano outbreak…it’s best to check/know for certain what your water parameters truly are>>
Knowing what it is would be better, so I'll get a test kit.
<<Very good>>
I'll try cutting back on water changes and see what happens.
<<And just to be clear… Not “cut back” in the literal sense, but rather try slightly larger volume changes a bit further apart in frequency>>
I'll also get a bucket of Seachem Reef Salt and see what happens.
<<Is good stuff>>
I haven't really noticed any inconsistency in the Reef Crystals, and I pre-mix my salt immediately after a water change in prep for the next one.
<<Ah good… It is important to give the newly mixed solution some time to “mature”>>
I have a 29 gal tank in the closet next to the display with pre-mixed salt water, and I use valves to pump the new water back through my closed-loop during water changes.
<<Neat>>
The dKH and Calcium seem to be consistent from batch to batch and bucket to bucket.
<<Perhaps Reef Crystals has remained more consistent…though there is still the suspicion of something feeding/fueling the BGA. Allowing the water more time to mature may help if this is the case. And you might even consider adding a small amount of tank water to the mixing container a few days after mixing a new batch, to introduce microbes that might possibly reduce/consume any “problematic” elements>>
Thanks again, I'll keep trying.
Mark Gustin
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>

R2: Salt Mix and Cyano/BGA - 03/06/09
Hey crew.
<<Hiya Mark>>
I'm following up on my BGA problem, which EricR was helping with.
<<Ah yes, I do recall>>
I included all previous correspondence below.
<<Always helpful. Thank you>>
I've made the following changes since my last e-mail on Feb 12.
1.) Removed Seachem PhosGuard from the sump and replaced with carbon. Now I have two bags of carbon in the sump.
2.) Rinsed & brushed some of the LR in tank water to remove detritus.
3.) Changed LR structure to allow more circulation through and behind the LR.
4.) Used a power head to blow off LR that I could not remove.
5.) Increased the amount of buffer added to my RODI top-off water.
6.) Reduced water changes to one 10-15 gal change per week.
<<All good strategies>>
I still have the BGA but it's not as prolific as it was.
<<Can be slow? very slow? to conquer/eradicate a heavy infestation (and I speak from experience)>>
It is definitely retreating again and has changed from an olive green/tan color to a more yellowish rust color.
<<Comes in many colors/strains? perhaps this is an indication you are indeed making changes to the environment that are ?less favorable? to the Cyano>>
It also isn't growing as much on the LR as it was. Most of it is on the sand now in the front of the tank. Ironically, this is the higher flow area, go figure?
<<Hmm? Is this covering on the sand still in ?sheets??slimy to the touch? Considering the fore mentioned color change, could the Cyano be gone and what you now see is Diatoms?>>
I have not switched salt brands from Reef Crystals to Seachem yet, as I don't seem to be having any chemistry issues, and I still have half a bucket of the Reef Crystals.
<<Okay>>
As you suggested, I bought a Salifert Magnesium test kit (almost $50) and my Mg measures 1470 with calcium at 425. Low Mg doesn't seem to be a contributing issue to the BGA, would you agree?
<<Yes>>
I know it's hard to answer this question. What dKH should my top off water be as a rule of thumb?
<<Generally, about that of NSW (8 ? 12) or slightly above>>
It seems as though I have to buffer it to a fairly high value (above 12) to keep the tank above 8.
<<Mmm, then I suggest another form of supplementation>>
The tank probably uses about 1/2 gal per day of top off water. It will increase to about 1 gal per day in a few months when summer hits. Yet at times it wants to slip below 8 in the display if I don't supplement it occasionally directly in the tank.
<<If you are looking for something more automated it may be time to consider the addition of a Calcium Reactor? and/or the addition of a Kalkwasser Reactor to your top-off system>>
Either way, my dKH is more stable than it was before I increased the buffer in the top-off.
<<You could also experiment more with this I think>>
Hopefully I've reached a tipping point with the BGA.
<<My fingers are crossed>>
I've let the Chaeto grow in my refugium to the point where it's filling about half the space.
<<Ah yes? more mass>>
I'm afraid if I harvest some of it, the BGA may regain strength.
<<As long as there is space and the ball is healthy you can continue to let it grow. This Macroalgae does tend to grow in a very ?tight? configuration? Try spreading the mass apart a bit to increase light to the interior (be mindful of Bristleworms!)>>
I also need to keep an eye on Phosphate levels since I removed the PhosGuard. Will the Chaeto control Phosphate levels?
<<It will help? If Phosphate accumulation is a concern then look in to one of the iron-based removers. Likely a surprisingly small amount in a suitable reactor will suffice>>
Any idea why the BGA is now retreating with only the little adjustments made above?
<<You have affected a shift in balance away from whatever was favoring the Cyano (perhaps a result of just one item you listed? or the accumulated effect of all)?often it can be ?just the little things?>>
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to beat this junk! I hate to lose!
<<I wish you continued success!>>
Mark
<<EricR>>

R3: Salt Mix and Cyano/BGA - 03/07/09
EricR
<<Mark>>
Thanks for your input.
<<Always welcome>>
I'm fairly confident it's still BGA, not Diatoms.
<<You’re in the best position to tell>>
Is still slimy, easily pulled off the substrate in "sheets" although reducing in size right now.
<<Ah, okay>>
I still have some very small patches of the red junk too. I'm not up to speed on the Calcium/Kalk Reactors. Have seen them, but haven't educated myself on their application yet.
<<Easy enough to do…much info here, on the NET in general>>
I hesitate to add anything requiring another pump in my sump, due to temp concerns.
<<These units can be “gravity” fed from the tank, and then allowed to gravity drain to the sump…though there is a small pump on the reactor to circulate water within. The better units (in my opinion) utilize small Eheim pumps for this purpose which aside from being extremely reliable offer very little (if any) heat transfer>>
In the summer my tank temp is in the 80-82 range without a heater. During the winter it runs in the 78-80 range with the heater coming on overnight to maintain. With M.H. lighting and 3 Mag drives, I have enough heat.
<<I do understand and share the same issues as you on this. A couple things you can do to help (of which you are probably already aware) is to add fans over both the sump and the main display for some evaporative cooling…and…switch out the warm running Mag-Drives for a cooler running pump. I run a large in sump skimmer (ER CS12-3) which I upgraded with Eheim pumps, as well as doing the same with two sump return pumps…with these changes in pump type I realized about a 2-degree drop in water temperature>>
My cabinet is full underneath as well, but I may be able to reconfigure to gain a little more space for a reactor. I haven't used Kalk in my top off due to the damage it can do to the little pump.
<<Indeed…and I don’t recommend adding Kalkwasser powder to your top-off water vessel>>
Tunze didn't really recommend it for use in such a caustic environment although I know people do it. They have to replace their pumps annually from what I've read.
<<Agreed… These little pumps are short-lived enough as is, I would not use one in a container with Kalkwasser. I use a Tunze Osmolator for top-off (superb devices)…but have an in-line Kalkwasser reactor through which the top-off water feeds on its way to my refugium>>
I use Seachem products for buffer and calcium.
<<Excellent…this is my fave company for such>>
I use the Reef Builder and Reef Buffer, as well as Reef Complete. Should I consider something different?
<<Nah… The issue is not the quality of the product (you won’t go wrong using Seachem), but rather I think it is that your tank/its inhabitants are consuming bio-minerals faster than they are coming in. In other words, it’s a matter of finding the easiest methods and/or needed dosages to keep up with consumption>>
I only have to add calcium about once per month. I use the buffer and builder in my top off.
<<How you go about it is much less important than ensuring you maintain a “balance” to your water chemistry. Research the different options and choose that which works best for you…and feel free to come back and discuss>>
Thanks again,
Mark
<<Happy to share… Eric Russell>>

Brown Stuff? More BGA 2/7/09 Hey guys, <Don’t forget the gals! Hello Josh.> I am running a newly setup 90 gal salt tank with a DSB of about 4 inches of sugar fine sand. I have a BioWheel filter with just a filter pad and a Poly A filter as well as a Remora hang-on skimmer which pulls about a cup of stuff a day. <Good.> I recently upgraded from my 20 gal tank which I had running for several years, and transferred the rock, fish and corals. In my 20 gal, I began to have this brown algae grow all over my rocks and substrate very rapidly. I checked salinity, pH, nitrates, nitrites and phosphorus levels and my salinity was perfectly even, my pH 8.3 and all my NO3, NO4 and Phos. all were at zero, but I could not get rid of the stuff. I siphoned daily and even did a 80% water change twice but it didn't stop it at all. I looked online and thought it might by Cyanobacteria <It is.> so I bought some meds from my LFS that I trust completely, and they had a similar problem that this product fixed. Well, it did nothing. <Despite the good reports sometimes heard, these treatments really are a bad idea. See: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/maralgcidefaqs.htm> Out of desperation, I bleached out the whole tank except one rock which had a coral on it, and rebuilt it from scratch. Being only a 20 gal, it wasn't a big deal except loosing all my inverts :(. <…> But it didn't really come back after that. Now that I have started a new tank and moved all my stuff except substrate over, it is back with a vengeance! I bought 7 pounds of Grunge from GARF (highly debatable as far as live goes, but I figured rubble would still come in handy) and I checked all of my levels, and they are still at zero two days later. <Being consumed as produced…a level of zero is misleading.> My sand sifting star is eating the brown junk but it comes back within about 6-12 hours. <In a 20? Please see http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sndsftstrsysf.htm> Help!!! What can I do to get my nice white sand back? <So many factors: water flow, feeding, lighting, stocking, source water, maintenance practices, additives….the list goes on and on. The best thing you can do is arm yourself with the knowledge. See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm and the linked files above and you will see all you will ever need to know on the issue.> I know that a new tank will probably have an algae outbreak, but this I don't think is usual if it IS algae. <Not technically, but the treatment, fueling sources are the same.> (Enclosed are some pics which show it, I'm sorry I know they are large files, how do I save them as small for you?) <Your files sizes are fine actually.> Up close as the mat gets thicker it begins to conglomerate and form dark lines... Also, I decided to buy a sea cucumber (Holothuria leucospilota) and take a chance, it even though I've moved it a couple times, it hasn't eviscerated yet...yea. But it never comes out to feed, even a couple hours after lights out. Any suggestions? <See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cukefdgfaqs.htm, but the cuke will not work out long term in this new and small a system.> If I pull it out of the rocks, it does feed for a half hour or so before it climbs back under a rock, but that's it... I just want to make sure I'm caring for it the best I can. <Read, do careful research, ideally before purchase.> I appreciate you guys, Josh <Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Brown Stuff? More BGA 2/8/09 Thank you for the quick reply. Actually the problem tank is a 90 gal. <I see this now, sorry for the mix-up.> And for flow I am running two powerheads..I don't remember the name but it is fairly strong and they point right at each other at a crosswise angle to create a random current and is just shy of moving the sand. I am running T5 lighting and I feed small amounts of frozen mysis thawed in fresh water and then filtered thru a coffee filter and paper towels. the only additive I am using is calcium. My water supply is from a local dealer and I check his levels with their pc once a month and its always near zero if not zero. <Should just be zero for what is of concern with newly purchased water.> I can't figure out where the excess nutrients are from and I only have a small clown, royal gramma, sand star and the cucumber..if I continue these practices should it die out? Thank you! <It is a phase that many new systems go through...keep up on your water changes and give it time. Maybe also consider some live rock or a refugium, both help immensely with marine systems. I have no crystal ball or magical answer.> Josh <Scott V.>

Cyano? 1/26/09
Hello -
<Andy.>
I have some Cyano (not quite overwhelming yet but very annoying) in my 150 gallon tank of 3 months with 210 of live rock. I have been doing 20% water changes for the last 3 weeks including vacuuming the gravel.
The funny part is that the Cyano is only one of my overflows and on the substrate, on a couple of rocks, and is now starting to grow in the sump (ie. filter sock, pump cord, macro, etc). I am using a 4 stage Kent RO/DI filter, too. I have added 2 Hydor 4 PHs, changing out filter socks, placed Polyfilter in my skimmer discharge, and feeding only 1x/day, including not feeding at all every 3rd or 4th day. I am also employing an Aqua C EV-180 and getting some dark stuff out and cleaning it out 2x/day (a little OC, but I don't want it to drip back in the sump). I have also added some Chaeto in the fuge area to compete with the micro. The top of the Chaeto is now getting the "burgundy" Cyano on it.
<Hmmm, maybe a small powerhead in the refugium to keep the algae moving a bit.>
Why does it still exist?
<The fueling factors are still there, not uncommon in a system this age.>
I am utilizing quite a few algae grazers, too.
<Little to no value with BGA.>
I have recently decreased the lighting (~ 500W of T5, 6 bulbs) to only 8 hrs/day instead of 10 hrs/day. I have also decreased my PC refugium lighting by 1 hr to only 9 hrs/day.
Ammonia = 0; Nitrites = 0; Nitrates= 0; Ph = 8.2; Alk = 4 mEq/L; Phosphates = .05 on API, and 0 on Elos test kits. Salinity = 1.026 and temp is ~ 79. Fish include 1" - 2" of the following:
1) Yellow Coris
2) Cherub Angel
3) Yellow Tail Damsel
4) Midas Blenny
5) Ember Blenny
6) Randal Goby
7) Chromis
8) Diadema
9) Purple serpent starfish
10) Clean up crew (snails, hermits, etc.)
The only thing left is maybe run some carbon in addition to the poly.
<Will have no effect on your issue.>
I am feeding more Mysis than Spectrum pellets now to try to reduce the Phosphates.
<Be sure to thaw, drain the liquid off. This can make a big difference.>
Thanks,
Andy
<At three months in some BGA is not uncommon. Keep up good husbandry practices and give it time, siphoning off what you can with the water changes. Steady course, you can beat this.
It sounds like you have educated yourself on the issue, but just in case check out
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htmand the linked files above.
Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Cyano? 1/27/09
When I feed the frozen cubes, I put one cube in a cup filled with aquarium water. Then I dump the entire cup with Mysis in for feeding.
Is this the wrong method?
<Not wrong per se, some argue the benefit of the juices too. The juices can be a source of algae fuel.
I have found that when frozen foods are used frequently draining the food first can have a large impact.>
Are you saying I should thaw the frozen cube by itself in a cup (this could take longer than in 80 degree water) and then drain the juice and just feed the solid part?
<Or even just thaw it in just a bit of aquarium water/RO water, then drain the whole thing off.>
Thanks,
Andy
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Cyano? 1/27/09
Thanks Scott. I will strain the juices first. So you think this is just a phase because my aquarium is only ~ 3 months old and that with good husbandry it will go subside.
<The age is a factor. Newer tanks tend to be unstable, lending to BGA outbreaks.>
How exactly will the algae get eradicated? Will more beneficial bacteria build up in my system over time and cause the BGA to diminish? Or my macro will kick in and start competing with the BGA's food source?
<Competition, stability, true rock curing/cycling, all of these play factors here. In the end you deprive the BGA of what it needs to survive, the environment it better suited to desirable growth.>
Thanks,
Andy
<Welcome, Scott V.>

BGA 1/19/09
Hi crew,
<Marc.>
I was hoping you could help me a problem I'm having with Cyano. Also, if you could just give me an opinion on my overall tank care.
<Sure.>
I have a 75 gallon tank. For equipment I have a Remora Pro, an Emperor 400 running with just charcoal, 220 watts of t5 lighting ( two 18k bulbs, one 10k and one 6500), two Hydor stage 4s, one Hydor stage 3, a Maxijet 1200, and a stealth heater.
I have 80lbs of live rock, and about an 1.5 of live sand.
<Sounds fine so far.>
For live stock I have a Yellow Tang, Lawnmower Blenny, three Green Chromis, two Lyretail Anthias, Chalk Bass, Sixline Wrasse, Feather Duster, some Blue Legged Hermit Crabs, and Red Legged Hermit Crabs (not many of either anymore, not replacing), assorted snails, a red starfish, Sally Lightfoot and a Serpent Starfish.
For soft corals, I have a Toadstool, a Finger Leather, a Kenyan Tree Coral, Daisy Polyps, a Cauliflower Coral and assorted Mushrooms.
I do about a 20% water change once a week with tap water and reef crystals. I use an Iodine supplement once a week.
<You likely do not need this with a 20% weekly water change, do you test for this?>
I also clean the pre filter to the Remora Pro twice a week.
My water parameters are at ph 8.2, salinity 1.25, temp 76, dKH 11, cal 420- 430 and nitrates under 1, close to 0.
I feed my fish a half a cube of frozen food twice a day. I rotate between Formula One, Formula Two and Mysis Shrimp.
<Do be sure to thaw these and drain the liquid, this can be a contributing source to your problem.>
About three weeks ago I started getting some red Cyano and green hair algae. That's when I actually hooked up the Emperor 400, I started upping the water change to 30%, I’ve been scrapping the Cyano off the rocks and the sand. I also stopped adding zooplankton, I read bottled invert food can contribute to Cyano.
<It can, pollution in a bottle if not careful.>
It was getting a lot better this week, than I came home tonight and there was Cyano on the glass, and on the sand and predominately on one rock. It was the first rock I noticed the Cyano on three weeks ago. So I rubbed it off the sand and glass, then I took the rock out of the tank and cleaned it all off.
Any other suggestions on how I could control this, and get rid of this.
<Do modify your feeding as listed above. Also from the info given, check your source water. It is entirely possible to be actually introducing the BGA fueling nutrients into your system with the water changes. Keep in mind that tap water can and will easily change in composition throughout different periods of the year with rain runoff, where it comes from, etc. Otherwise do read through http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm and the linked files above for more information.>
Also, is there anything that will eat the hair algae or Cyano?
<Not reliably, no.>
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Marc
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: BGA 1/21/09
Thanks for the help.
<Welcome.>
Do you think using Prime water conditioner to treat my tap water would help?
<No, this may not even be your problem, just a possibility. You need to actually test your tap water and see for yourself.>
Do you think the foods I use are sufficient, or is there something else I should also be using?
<There is nothing wrong with frozen foods. I personally prefer Spectrum pellets for everyday feeding, with frozen foods as "treats". It is just easier!>
And one last question, I leave my lights on for 13 hours a day, does these seem like an acceptable length of time?
<A little on the long side, but acceptable. Ideally the photoperiod should mimic that of where the corals originate. Generally accepted as 12 hours, but do keep in mind that this includes twilight and dawn in that time period.>
Thanks again, I have done hours and hours of reading through your FAQs, it's just some of this seems to be a matter of opinion.
<Many are in this hobby.>
Marc
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: BGA 1/25/09
Thanks again for the help,
<Welcome.>
It seems to be getting worse. I am confident that it's my source water.
<Easy enough to treat.>
My question is, as far as maintenance to get rid of it, is it ok to just wipe it off all the rocks when im doing the water change, or do you think that will only spread it?
<You can, usually it is best to just siphon off what Cyano you can while doing the water change.>
Also, for my size tank, do you think it would be more beneficial to use a hang on refugium, or the run charcoal?
<I am always an advocate for a refugium of any sort! Carbon is nice, but a refugium will help you out with your issue and provide many other benefits.>
Thanks,
Marc
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: BGA 1/26/09
Im sorry for the back and forth. I'm just curious about your comment of the source water being an easy fix. Were you referring to using ro water, or something else?
<There are a few choices. Deionization units, buying water at your LFS or grocery store. But having your own RO unit is usually far easier, and cheaper in the long run.>
By the way, when I got home tonight, it looked a lot better, all I did was wipe if off last night. If I take care of the issue causing the Cyano, will it go away itself?
<If the fueling factors are taken away it will die off in time. The next problem is the dying off causes more pollution in your tank. That is why siphoning out what you can is so beneficial.>
Marc
<Scott V.>

Cyano, algicides admonition  1/13/09
Hi Crew,
I have been battling red slime for a few months and made a lot of progress but could not get it completely. It was contained in a few spots that I would siphon. Every once in a while it would flare up and I would have a real clean up to do. So I decided to try a product despite the problems people have reported. UltraLife Red Slime Control.
<Hmmm….>
My tank is just a 10 gallon and I have candycanes and some fish. Instructions were to use one measure of the enclosed dispenser ( one flat teaspoon full) for 15 gallons. I figure I have about 8 gallons so I used half of that. I pre mixed it with tank water until completely dissolved as instructed. And it did get rid of it. My tank always had a reddish hue to it and now it actually looks very clean. The fish did not seem to mind the treatment. I have a few snails and I did not notice any adverse affects. The corals did not like it. It was nothing major but I rarely see them with open mouths, usually just a few.
<I have seen this, a friend just wiped out his reef recently using a similar antibiotic product.>
But during the treatment they were all open. I left it this way for 2 days. Then  I put carbon back in my filter and did some water changes and so far, after a week, all seems well and it has not returned (yet).
<It will unless the fueling factor is addressed. These treatments are a temporary fix and a poison to filtration. The tank inhabitants are threatened initially by oxygen deprivation, followed by a hit to the biofiltration. See the links below for more re this and the BGA.>
Thanks,
Sam
<Welcome, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/maralgcidefaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm

Cyano Control 1/13/09
Hello Crew:
<Tom>
As Always I must say Great Site!  Tons of information which I read daily and then some.
<Great!>
My tank is a 3-1/2 year old 46 gallon bow with the following:
1-2" crushed coral (which I plan to create DSB 4-6" I have the sugar sized sand but lack the confidence to create without killing my tank family)
<Ah, just add a bit at a time over a couple of weeks and you will be fine.>
50+ lbs of LR
Fluval 404 - took all components out and added Chemi-pure Elite and charcoal
<Redundant, save yourself some cash and use one or the other.>
Aqua C Roma w/Maxijet 1200 and drain hose (upgraded about 2 months ago from Prizm)
<Good move!>
2 power heads for water movement
Coralife 36" compact fluorescent dual 96w (1-daylight, 1-Actinic)
Readings:
SG - 1.023
Phos 0-0.25 (color chart)
Cal - 300
KH - 7
PH - 8.2
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate -10
Temp - 80 F
2 false clowns - had almost 3 years
Yellow Tan
g - 1-1/2 years
2 cleaner shrimp - 6 months
Several various hermits
Several various snails
Frogs spawn - 2 years (had 2 heads and now has 4)
Yellow Polyp - 1-1/2 years
Green Polyp - 2 years
Several Mushrooms - 2-1/2 years
1 Ricordea - 2-1/2 years
1 leather - 1 year
2 nice size pieces of candy cane - 1 year
I believe my tank has a Cyano problem.  The back of my tank ended up covered with dark maroon color algae which I scraped off like wall paper.  But it also covered much of my LR.  How do I clean the LR?
<Best to just scrub in the tank a bit, siphon off what you can with water changes. Treating the cause is the real cure.>
Can I remove some LR to open up the tank a bit? 
<You can.>
Should I be doing something different or in addition in order to remove the Fluval 404 canister?
<Start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
Continuing through all the linked files above will tell you more than you ever wish to know about your problem!>
Thanks,
Tom
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Cyano Control 1/14/09
Hello Scott:
Thank you for the information.
<Happy to help out Tom.>
I will keep reading WWM & learning.
Do you think at some point I would remove my Fluval 404 completely and relay on my LR & skimmer?
<I would, it is of little benefit with your other filtration in place while just providing a possible detritus trap and extra maintenance.>
Thanks,
Tom
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Cyano Control... and Scler. hlth.  01/19/09
Hello Scott:
I seem to have a possible problem with my Candy Cane & Frogs Spawn coals.
The Candy Cane always seemed to have plump looking heads and all of a sudden they appear hard for at least a week. The Frogs Spawn for about 2 weeks has not been fully out the tentacles are very close to the skeleton.
I kept thinking that they were disrupted yet its been a while. Water has not changed as listed in earlier email.
<Hmm... I don't know, but it could be a reaction to the Cyano.>
Not sure whats going on.
<When in doubt, do a water change.>
Regards,
Tom
<Best,
Sara M.>

Re: Cyano Control 01/19/09
Hello Sara:
Thanks for the response. That's exactly what I did tonight and will keep doing them. Another thing I noticed is that my snails are not acting right. Astraea & Margarita snails seem to have slowed down and appear to be having trouble moving and some are extended. Another thing I had been doing often was blowing off the LR with a turkey baster and doing the same to the 1-2" crushed coral on the bottom stirring it up. The reason I was doing that was to allow the protein skimmer to clean the water. Is that ok?
<Yes, this is even recommended. However, if your tank is not "used to" it, you might have stirred up too much too fast. Again, the only really remedy for this is more water changes...>
Regards,
Tom
<Best,
Sara M.>  

UV Filtration, and algae control f's 1/9/09
Hi all,
<Hello>
I've got a 60 gallon marine tank - not sure the terminology for my tank design, but basically the 60 gallon tank itself is subdivided into two sections - one for the marine life and the other which is an enclosed ~15 gallon part full of bio balls and a wet-dry filter.
<Often referred to as all-in-ones.>
The water circulates into this chamber and then is pumped back to the main part of the tank - but it is all enclosed in the 60 gallon acrylic tank.
I've got a huge algae and Cyanobacteria problem thanks to a lunare wrasse that has destroyed all of my cleanup crew.
<Actually large algae problems are indications of more problems than just a missing clean-up crew. What are you phosphate and nitrate levels? Do you have a skimmer? Is it producing good skimmate? How often do you do water changes and what other livestock do you have.>
Despite that, we are trying to avoid parting with our little pain-in-the-wrasse because he is one of the more entertaining fish that we have.
<Topping out around 10 inches, the Thalassoma lunare will need a larger tank as it grows.>
We are hoping that an UV sterilizer would help us with this - but all the sterilizers I see use an additional pump to force water through a small chamber that contains the UV light.
<Yes, is standard setup. However I do not believe a UV will help you much with algae control. It does not do anything for most algaes since they never pass through the filter.>
We already have this tank design that effectively cuts down our tank capacity with this back chamber full of bio balls - so is it possible to just set up a bare UV light inside of that chamber?
<No, not safe, recommended, or effective.>
It is completely enclosed from the rest of the tank with black plastic - so no light should penetrate to the main tank.
<I would be more worried about it damaging your own eyes than the tank, these bulbs and do serious and permanent damage to your eyesight. Also the intense UV light would most likely negatively effect the plastic or the filters.>
If there is something more to the filter than just the light, I suppose this would not work?
<Would not, beyond the safety concerns these filters need specific flow rates to work, which would not be able to be controlled without a dedicated pump.>
Apologies if this is somewhere in the FAQ - I could not find it,
<No problem.>
presumably because I don't know the name of my particular tank setup.
In general, is this tank setup reasonable?
<Not really, UVs need pretty specific conditions to be safe and effective.>
It was a hand-me-down, and perhaps that is why...but despite the fact that we lose a good amount of our tank capacity, it is a pretty simple design and easy for a newbie like me to maintain...
Thanks very much for the help!
Glenn
<Unfortunately tank setups like you have are fairly limited in what they can do, especially within an marine environment. But you can only work with what you have.>
<Chris>

Re: UV Filtration, 1/9/09
According to the test kit I have, the levels for phosphate and nitrate are within the desired levels. Nitrate tends to be a little high, but still within what at least my test kit calls desirable.
<Numbers here are everything, what the test kit considered desirable may not be.,>
The tank came with a skimmer of sorts - there is basically an acrylic chamber in the rear part of the tank (where the bioballs are) where the water enters from the bottom and pours out near the top - at the top of the chamber is a plastic piece with a cylindrical tube coming out of the top - air is injected toward the bottom of this chamber and bubbles out the top.
But don't think it is good for much other than making bubbles - I don't see any scum collecting at the top of the tube.
<All too common with these style tanks.>
So would this be something to add?
<Absolutely, a quality skimmer will help immensely.>
I had heard these were vital for coral, but did not realize they would help with our situation as well.
<I would personally not run any tank without a quality skimmer.>
I change 10% of the water every week.
<Good>
And the two problems are green (hairless) algae (coming from the food I feed my tang I think) and Cyanobacteria (goes rampant really fast).
<Is prone to do so, nutrient control is key here. If you have not already please see here for more.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm .>
I have two small clowns (2-3 inches), one tiny damsel (1-2 inches), one yellow tang (3-4 inches),
<Definitely will need a larger tank>
and the wrasse (maybe 4-5 inches). I think the latter is still a juvenile based on the black spot on his fin. We also have a serpent star.
<Perhaps not for long.>
> Despite that, we are trying to avoid parting with our little
> pain-in-the-wrasse because he is
> one of the more entertaining fish that we have.
> <Topping out around 10 inches, the Thalassoma lunare will need a larger tank as it grows.>
At what point would he (and presumably the tang) outgrow this tank?
<The problem is that by the time you start seeing symptoms of outgrowing the tank the damage is already done. I would consider moving them sooner rather than later.>
> We are hoping that an UV sterilizer would help us with this - but all the
> sterilizers I see use
> an additional pump to force water through a small chamber that contains
> the UV light.
> <Yes, is standard setup. However I do not believe a UV will help you much
> with algae control. It does not do anything for most algaes since they
> never pass through the filter.>
> We already have this tank design that effectively cuts
> down our tank capacity with this back chamber full of bio balls - so is
> it possible to just set up a bare UV light inside of that chamber?
> <No, not safe, recommended, or effective.>
> It is completely enclosed from the rest of the tank with black plastic - so
> no light should penetrate to the main tank.
> <I would be more worried about it damaging your own eyes than the tank, > these bulbs and do serious and permanent damage to your eyesight. Also the intense UV light would most likely negatively effect the plastic or the filters.>
Ouch - thanks very much for the info then.
<Welcome>
We had the tank for about 5-6 months before getting the wrasse without significant algae problems
- we had 6 turbo snails, 10 hermit crabs, and 10 marguerite snails - but he has killed all but 1 turbo snail. I wish I could figure out why he stopped at that one though - it is still doing an effective job on a small part of the tank each night, but obviously cannot proceed alone.
It was the smallest of the Turbos that we bought - but I don't see why that would stop him.
<Who knows what goes on in the brains of fish, perhaps he has found prepared food easier/tastier for the moment, but I would guess at some point he'll go after the snail, its just what they do.>
We tried a serpent star, but it has proven useless (albeit interesting to watch).
<They tend to go for meatier fair.>
I thought it would help clean the sand (also quickly infested with Cyanobacteria even a day after I rake the sand), but I guess I was misinformed about that too.
<Yep, very little eats Cyano.>
> If there is something more to the filter than just the light, I suppose
> this would not work?
> <Would not, beyond the safety concerns these filters need specific flow
> rates to work, which would not be able to be controlled without a
dedicated
> pump.>
> Apologies if this is somewhere in the FAQ - I could not find it,
> <No problem.>
> presumably because I don't know the name of my particular tank setup.
> In general, is this tank setup reasonable?
> <Not really, UVs need pretty specific conditions to be safe and
> effective.>
> It was a hand-me-down, and
> perhaps that is why...but despite the fact that we lose a good amount of
> our tank capacity, it is a pretty simple design and easy for a newbie
> like me to maintain...
> Thanks very much for the help!
> Glenn
> <Unfortunately tank setups like you have are fairly limited in what they can do, especially within an marine environment. But you can only work  with what you have.>
Do you have any other suggestions for what we could do? Aside from our enjoyment of the tank, we have a 5 month old boy and he calms down quite a bit just watching the fish. :)
<For the time being set up the water changes, preferably with RO/DI water, and syphon as much of the algae and Cyano you can. With time an a bit of effort you will get it under control. Also try cutting back on feeding, many people do not realize they are overfeeding their fish and in the process adding excessive nutrients to the tank, which the algae and Cyano happily use up.>
thanks again!
<Welcome>
<Chris>

Snail shell discoloring amongst other queries Good evening all. I have searched the FAQ's as much as possible today and I couldn't find an answer to my question. I have a 29 gallon aquarium that has been running for about 2 years now. I have 10 hermit crabs, 11 or so Mexican turbo snails I believe and a black and tan serpent star as my cleaning crew. As for fish I have a small snowflake eel that is about 8 or 9 inches. <Mmm, needs more room than this> I have an Amiracle H.O.T. protein skimmer/ wet dry filter, an aqua c remora skimmer, a penguin 1100 power head and a Koralia 1200, I think. There is approximately 40 lbs of sand and live rock in the tank. My levels are as follows: pH 8.4, Nitrate 10 mg/l, Nitrite 0 mg/l, Ammonia 0 mg/l, salinity 1.022, and temp 78. I have recently noticed that my snails have stopped moving around drastically and no longer climb on the glass, also some have developed bluish green patches on their shells. <Good observation skills> I'm concerned that they are ill. From what I've read I think it could be that they have run out of food, and I plan on putting a algae sheet in the tank tonight. <Mmm, not food...> Or, it could be that there is some sort of magnesium poisoning which I think is doubtful because I buy my saltwater from a very reputable dealer who uses RO/DI water. <Possibly an imbalance twixt calcium and Mg as you speculate, or alkalinity and biomineral (common cause here), or... something even more devious... BGA growth, its effect> I do about a 5 gallon change every week. Lastly I thought it could be a lack or overdose of calcium, I have never tested for it because I do not have any corals at the moment but do plan on getting some once I upgrade my tank in a year or so, assuming I can get things on the right track. I don't think any of the snails have died but like I said, I am worried that they are not active at all any more. All the other livestock seems to be doing very well. I should mention that up until a day or two ago I also had a Dottyback in there also but the eel ate it while I was away on a weekend trip. I feed the eel some scallops the night before I left, then did a water change the next day right before I left in the afternoon. When I returned 3 days later, the Dottyback was gone and there was a large amount of what I believe to be Cyanobacteria on the glass, which surprised me because of all the skimming I have going on. I just installed the remora skimmer a week prior and emptied about an inch of pretty much nasty water when I returned. <The skimmer addition should help a great deal> I understand that there is a break in period for the skimmer but that was a lot more Cyano than I've seen in that short amount of time. I've tried to attach a photo of the snail's shell to help with the ID and any info on what I should do or should have done different would be greatly appreciated. Also, I use the Instant Ocean brand test kit, that used to be fasTest or something like that, and I was wondering what the ratio of mg/l that it gives me is compared to ppm that other tests give. <Milligrams per liter is identical to parts per million... they are the equivalencies> Thanks for all your help and the great web site, sorry this was so long. <Mmm, there are a few "standard" possibilities here, and related "cures" to try... The first, as you state is that something is off in water quality... most likely twixt the common components of hardness and alkaline earth compounds... Read here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/snaildisfaqs.htm That your live rock is a bit olde may be a factor here... and you may want to supplant, replace a bit of it per your reading here: http://wetwebmedia.com/substrepl.htm and lastly (for now) from your photo... there is likely a Cyanobacteria situation at play here... Read: http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm and as much of the linked BGA Control FAQs files above as it takes for you to understand what is going on here... Other possibilities abound... It might be that your supplementing practices themselves are compounding the imbalance and BGA problem/s... These additions, modifications should be done, esp. in/w/ such small volumes, outside... via pre-made water change-outs. But do give the above citations a bit of reading and we'll chat further. Bob Fenner>

Re: snail shell discoloring amongst other queries   1/7/09 Hi Bob, Thank you so much for the insight. From what I've read, and also something I just noticed the other day myself, I do believe I have an idea of what to do for my snails and health of my system in general. I remembered the other day that I used to have a pretty deep sand bed, about 2 or 3 inches in my tank and now its about 1 or 2 in areas, so I will add some more sand after doing a bit more research on the best way to tackle that. <Ah yes. Surprising just how much dissolves with time, eh?> Also, I will be purchasing a testing kit to check on my calcium, magnesium and alkalinity levels. <Good> The other thing I have neglected which may have been a factor with the Cyano, is I have never replaced my bulbs so I will do that as well. <Ah, yes> Another question I was wondering about, I am currently in the process of removing the bio balls from my wet dry and wanted to know, if I replace some of the live rock in my system, could I just break the old stuff up and put it in my filter, or would that be the same problem as the bio balls building up nitrate? <Would, will be a tremendous improvement> My original plan was to just put a bag of charcoal in their with a filter pad. <The LR, old or new is far superior> Lastly, I thought I would mention that while observing my tank late last night (the best thing I can think of doing when I can't sleep), I noticed that all of my snails had come out and although they weren't super active they were moving around quite a bit. There were about 4 that were all piled on top of one another and I saw several of them excreting this brownish stuff into the water. <Mmm, X-rated behavior> I figured that it was how they pooped, but as I checked into it today I found that some are possibly trying to reproduce, which I will take as a good sign although I do still have some things to take care of. They are much more active at night which I don't quite understand. <Think about if you were very slow moving... a tasty bit... when would you be more active... avoid predators?> Thank you again for all your assistance and I apologize if my questions are located in the FAQ's and I didn't see them. <No worries... most all situations are a bit more complex, multiple-input, possibilities than simple reading, reference can address... Hence the need, benefit of individual nuancing, syncretizing, synthesizing response. Cheers, BobF>

Re: Cyanobacteria explosion- need help!, 1/1/09
Dear WWM,
<Hi>
I recently got an ID from you guys on some red hairy algae-like growth that has been dominating my tank (ID'd Cyanobacteria/ blue-green algae). I've done pretty much everything the resource on your site suggests for getting
rid of blue-green algae, but to no avail. I replaced the old filter cartridge in my power filter, manually vacuumed out as much of the growth  as possible, did a 2/3 water change, and have been being careful not to overfeed. I've just got a 15 gallon set-up and in the last couple days added another old light to the tank as a temporary measure (about 40 total watts now). This stuff is multiplying at an extraordinary rate- I can spend over an hour manually vacuuming it up every week, just to have it grown back completely and even worse the next week. What can I do?
<Typically it takes time and continued maintenance and nutrient control to limit Cyano. What are your phosphate and nitrate levels?>
Are there filter pads or something I can put in my hang-on power filter to kill this stuff?
<The use of carbon or PolyFilters may help limit available nutrients, but are more of a band-aid than a long term solution.>
It's covering my live rock and killing off the other stuff on it. Here's the picture again if that helps.
Thanks,
Nick
<Time and diligent maintenance are about all you can do here. Adding a refugium with competing macroalgaes may also help.>
<Chris>

Re: Coral Growth/BGA control 12/19/08
75 gall tank with 125 lbs of live rock, 30 gall sump with 3 baffles, Grape Caulerpa and Chaetomorpha in sump, protein skimmer rated for a 150 gall tank, 5 power heads (1 400, 1 550, 1 650, 1 1200, and 1 600) 150 lbs of live sand, cabbage leather, xenias, green star polyp, some zoo's, a frogspawn, and various mushrooms. Cleaner crew is about 20 blue legged hermits, a emerald crab, 6 Mexican turbo snails, 3 Nassarius snails and a serpent star. Nitrates are at .30 ppm and phosphate is near zero, (not enough to register)
<Both consumed by the BGA as produced.>
ph is 8.2 and salinity is around 1.026. Lighting is a 150 watt metal halide with 2 39 watt t-5 actinics and two 15 led clusters of moon lights. Have a double t5 Coralife light on the sump. Problem I'm having is with red Cyano covering my sand, It seems like it growing out of the sand, however is pretty much staying there, not really getting on my rocks. Trying to figure out what to do to cure this without adding chemicals to my tank. Also getting a bit of green hair algae also.
<The same fueling factors.>
I have a new 20000k bulb for the halide on order and just replaced the t-5 actinics. Water param.s seem ok, what should I do?
<Feeding, bioload, maintenance practices, source water, filtration, substrate, water flow, setup, lighting ….all become factors. This is one of the most common queries here on WWM, covered very in depth. See: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm and the linked files above, you will find all that you need here.>
Thanks, Devin Haney
<Welcome, Scott V.>
"Re: Coral Growth 8/6/08
Sorry, I have the aforementioned tank with some Xenia, a Goniopora, some zoos, a Cabbage Leather coral and a Green Star polyp. What can I give these guys to get them to start growing faster? Right now I'm feeding Cyclopeeze and using Kent's Lugol's iodine at the rate of two drops per week. My Xenia are getting taller stalks, but not spreading or pulsing very well. I am also using B-Ionic for calcium and Alkalinity.
What do you recommend for optimal growth?
<There are many factors, including lighting and water flow, in addition to the feeding that will have an impact on your coral's growth and
overall health. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/growingcorals.htm and linked articles/FAQ's will give you some insight to your questions above.>
Thanks, Devin Haney
<Welcome, Scott V.>"

Coralline or Red or Brown Algae Problem (None/ Is Cyanobacteria)  12/11/08
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I have a 100g reef tank w/ 110 lbs live rock, as well as 2" live sand. Tank has been set up for 6 months now. Mechanical filtration is skimmer & Fluval canister (only using Purigen bags in it). Bioload is low.
My problem is a purple algae that is blanketing my entire tank. Even my green polyp corals are covered by it. The algae presents itself as a thin blanket.
<<Mmm…>>
It is easily dislodged by a turkey baster (blows off instantly) but it is right back the next day. None of this algae is attached to the glass - just on the rocks & sand.
<<This is not actually a true alga… What you have is Cyanobacteria>>
My problem is I don't know if this is true coralline algae (it is purple in color) or a shade of 'red' or even 'brown' algae.
<<Though referred to as Blue-Green Algae, Cyanobacteria can manifest in an array of colors>>
This makes it difficult to do a Google search as I don't know exactly what type of algae (purple, red or brown) I am dealing with.
<<Try searches on Cyanobacteria and Blue-Green Algae>>
My hunch is Coralline algae does not take the form of a thin blanket that is easily dislodged & floats off still in blanket form.
<<Indeed>>
But I am not sure. Based on my description, any idea on which type algae this might be?
<<Yep… As stated>>
This algae has been present now for approx 3 months - but it is getting worse.
<<This is not atypical with this nuisance organism. Eradication can be difficult... You need to determine what is contributing to this outbreak. Look to things like your source water and foods/feeding methods for possible introduction of excess nutrients. Ensure the system is optimized (pH, Salinity, chemical balance) for your desirable organisms to help them outcompete the Cyanobacteria, and consider adding an in-line vegetable refugium for this same purpose (among other benefits to your system). You might also want to think about changing the depth, on way or the other, of that 2-inch sand bed. 2-inches is not an optimum depth as it is generally considered too shallow for proper denitrification processes and too deep to prevent accumulation of nutrients (though admittedly, some hobbyists do make such depths work). You should also do some reading. Start here, and then follow the associated links in blue at the tops of the pages: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm >>
Thanks,
bw
<<Happy to assist. EricR>>

Cyano Control 12/3/08
OK I've just about had it with brown algae on the substrate. I have measured phosphate and silicate with a high dollar Salifert kit and both are zero. I have no fish in this tank and feed a few corals very sparingly. Water is crystal clear with a good protein skimmer and activated carbon.
<What brand carbon are you using?>
But yet the brown algae continues to grow and grow. After I clean it all out once a week, it starts back as a slight grown dusting (like diatoms), then grows into strands with a mat formed in one week (like Cyano).
<Sure sounds like Cyano.>
This stuff is indestructible. How do I get rid of this stuff as I cannot keep battling it like this. I know about nutrient export, but this is ridiculous. I'm ready to nuke the tank with something just to get rid of this stuff.
<Reading here and related articles/FAQ's won't hurt you.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm>
What should I use, permanganate, erythromycin ???? Help!!!
<None of these should be used, can/will cause damage to your corals and nitrogen cycle. If you must use a product, I'd go with Boyd's Chemi-Clean.
I've heard favorable results from people who have used this product with no ill after effects. Instructions must be followed to the letter when using this.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Greg?

Cyano From Salt Mix...Don't Think So 11/28/08
Hello Reef People,
<Hi Alan>
I just had a quick BGA question;
I have been battling this bacteria for over a month now.
<How can you be battling this for over a month when you state below, the reef tank was set up on 11/18/08>
I believe it all started when I switched from one synthetic salt to another that claimed to have "more trace elements and nutrients" than my previous brand, I went from Coralife to Reef Crystals. I have tried every technique I know of including the use of Chemi-clean which worked wonders in the past, all with no results. I have a 125g reef tank and change 15g a week, perhaps this is too much to change at once,
<No problem here.>
especially with this new synthetic mix? I think I should go back to my old mix
<No need to do this, Reef Crystals is a good salt mix.>
and get busy on a big water change, syphon out remaining Cyano over the next weeks and see where that gets me? I will post tank parameters below.
<I'm guessing the start up date is in error. Nonetheless, salt mixes are not going to promote Cyano. The use of a good protein skimmer will go a long way in removing nutrients that help promote Cyano. Your fish load is a little on the high side but cannot comment much more based on the information you provided, filter system, etc. Do read here and related FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm>
Thank You!
<You're welcome, James (Salty Dog)>
125g reef tank started 18 November, 2008
120+ lbs live rock
25g refugium
R/O water
ammonia-0
nitrate-0
nitrite-0
phosphate-0
KH-10
calcium-4251 Green Clown Goby - Gobiodon histrio
2 Pajama Cardinals - Sphaeramia nematoptera
2 Saddleback Clownfish - Amphiprion polymnus
1 Dusky Jawfish - Opistognathus whitehurstii
1Royal Gramma- Gramma loreto
1 Dejardin's Tang - Zebrasoma desjardinii
1 Yellow Tang - Zebrasoma flavescens
6 Lyretail Anthias - Pseudanthias squamipinnis
1 Randall's Goby - Amblyeleotris randalli
1 Midas Blenny - Ecsenius midas
----------
17 fish INVERTS
2 Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp - Lysmata amboinensis
3 Peppermint Shrimp - Lysmata wurdemanni
1 Red Banded Pistol Shrimp - Alpheus randalli
--------
6 shrimp
1 Blue Linckia Starfish - Linckia Laevigata
1 Sand Sifting Starfish - Astropecten Polyacanthus
-------
2 starfish
8 Scarlet Hermit Crabs - Paguristes Cadenati
3 Blue Knuckle Hermit Crabs - Calcinus Eleg
1 Emerald Crab - Mithrax Sculptus
--------
12 Crabs
Various corals Fish

Re: Cyano From Salt Mix...Don't Think So 12/1/08
Yes, my bad on the startup date. Tank ran on 11/18/07.
<Ah, thought so. James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Cyano From Salt Mix...Don't Think So 12/2/08
Thank you James,
<You're welcome.>
I was brainstorming and may have came up with the source of my Cyano outbreak. I have been using the same phos-ban media for two months now in my reactor, it is Two Little Fishies. I was under the impression that this particular brand did not release excess nutrients after a period of time and that you could run it for a few months with no harm to the system.
<Yep, that's what they claim but it isn't going to do much good leaving it in the system when it's capacity has been reached. Use of a phosphate test kit would be helpful here.>
You also mentioned that I did not provide enough information on other areas of tank maintenance. I add a shot glass of B-ionic two part each morning, feed Cyclopeeze freeze dried in the am, Nori throughout the day and a tablet of various frozen brands in the evening after thawing them in a net under running water. I really think it may be the phosmedia though.
<You have a pretty good fish load for the size of tank you have, and in turn putting a good amount of food in the tank which contain phosphates.>
My plan is to run Chemi-Clean for two days with the tank lights off, remove phosmedia and then change 25% water. Also, my startup date was incorrect, it is 11/18/07.
<I would cut down the portions of food, replace the Phosban with Chemi-Pure Elite (an ion exchange resin combined with a very good grade of carbon and a ferric oxide type phosphate remover) which will also remove nitrogenous waste along with phosphate. A 10% weekly water change would be the way I'd go using a gravel/sand type siphon. When using Chemi-Clean, do not employ activated carbon/Chemi-Pure and/or protein skimming as it will greatly reduce it's effectiveness.>
I hope this help paint a better picture, thank you all for your advice!
<Better. James (Salty Dog)>

BGA, control   11/26/08
Hi guys, love the site. Thanks for all you do, it has helped me in my endeavor to build a marine set up worthy of the efforts.
<Great!>
I have a BGA problem that won't go away. Let me describe my set up, and then well take it from there. I have a 55 gallon main display, draining to an 18 gallon Rubbermaid tub with skimmer in it. From there it drains to a 75 gallon tank with a 10 gallon tank siliconed in one end. The 10 gallon tank is where my return pump is located, along with the auto top off system. My auto top off is a 36 gallon Rubbermaid tub mounted above the sump/fuge, and feeds the sump via gravity drain and a toilet tank fill system. Works quite well, my water level in the sump is always where it should be. My return pump is a Mag drive 9.5, and if I calculated correctly I have about half or a bit better of it's output after head loss.
In this 75 gallon tank is an 8 inch deep sand bed of oolitic type.
Covering one third of this is a mat 4 inches deep of Chaeto. The water level in this sump/fuge is at the top of the 10 gallon tank. The water level in the 10 gallon tank is 4 inches from the top if this 10 gallon tank, so to clarify, there is about 4 inches of water over the deep sand bed, draining into the sump for return to the main display. There also resides in the fuge 3 stalks of pulsing xenia, which refuses to tolerate the main display, but will live in the fuge. I also have lots of Bristle worms and other little critters who's population seems to wax and wane.
For my lighting, I have over the main display two 250w metal halides (on for 10 hours), with two 96w CF 50/50 bulbs. These are on for 12 hours during the day time. At night, over the fuge/sump, I have two 96w CF 50/50 lamps. These are on the other 12 hours.
<I would swap the refugium bulbs to 6500K to get better growth out of the Chaeto.>
In the main display I have a close loop system using a Quite One pump of unknown power. Probably not more than 500 gph. I also have 4 power heads (yuck) at about 200 gph each, but not likely putting out that much as they are old and encrusted etc. I will say, though, that it is quite a hurricane if I stir up some sand. A deep sand bed of 3 to 4 inches is the substrate.
In the main display I have a Clarkii clown, Saddleback clown, Damsel, some kind of black brittle star, a colony of about 15 or so mushrooms, and a small colony of Zoanthids, and about 60lbs of rock.
Parameters: Ph 8.4 day time(pinpoint) dropping to around 8.2 at night, Alk 2.0 milliequiivalents per liter. (best guess using Red Sea Marine Lab),
<This is low.>
nitrate 20,
<Too high.>
nitrite 0, Ammonia 0, CA 370, SG 1.025, temp 77-78. My skimmer is a 5 gallon water jug from one of those office water coolers with a Sedra 3500 needle wheel pump. Produces about a quarter of a cup of dark a day. Need a stronger pump for this size skimmer body?
<It could certainly handle a larger pump, but the proof is in the skimmate.
I would likely just opt for a more appropriate sized body for the Sedra.>
My top off water comes from an RO/DI system whose filters were given a complete change three months ago. All six stages. I then have an air stone in the reservoir to bring up the ph in the RO/DI water. It ages for at least 48 hours before transfer to the top off reservoir. Water changes occur about every two weeks consisting of 15 gallons of 4 to 7 day aged Instant Ocean mix.
Many of my ideas have come from reading this forum, and I have tried to solve my algae problem on my own - with no luck. Any ideas?
<No magic bullet on this one Ken. You have read the fueling factors, they are what they are. Do work on raising your alkalinity and lowering the nitrate. With all the DSB you have, the nitrate should be easy to control in time.>
Thanks, Ken.
<Welcome, Scott V>

Questions, Cyano/Carbon 11/17/08
Hi Crew,
<Hello>
I have a 6 year old 10 gallon with live sand and rock, a small filter and 65w PC with some fish and snails. I started to use activated charcoal in the filter (about 4 teaspoons) and want to know how often it should be changed. I change 1 gallon of water per week.
<The bulk of the carbon's absorbency is used up in a matter of hours, but most people continue to run it for weeks up to a month. The reality is that after the first day or so it is not really doing much.>
I have had a Cyano outbreak for about 6 months. Main changes since it started was to cut lighting to 8 hours and feed only once a day. It improved slightly but still needed a good siphoning once a week. I would generally pick one area to clean. Then a couple weeks ago I cleaned all the glass and siphoned whatever I could see on the rocks and sand. Since then it is much improved. What are my chances of really getting rid of it?
Thanks
<It will always come back if allowed, continuing good nutrient control and water changes should help control it long term.>
<Chris>

Cyano driving me crazy 11/05/08
Hi crew.
<Hey, Jessy here>
I've got a 135 gallon reef tank that's been up and running for about a year (acquired from somebody else who had it running for 4 years). I've had a cyano problem for the last month that I can't seem to get rid of. I've been siphoning it out and doing 30 gallon water changes weekly for a month and it keeps coming back. I've had my lights off for two days now without any visible improvement. I've got chaeto in the sump which isn't growing, so I don't know where the cyano gets it's nutrients. I use RO/DI water with new filters (on this tank and my 55 gallon which has no cyano). Water tests as follows: Salinity=1.025, Nitrite=0, Nitrate<5, Ph: 8.3, Alk=2.3, Ammonia=0.  I'm at my wits end and don't know what else to do.
<Hi Matt, I feel your pain. The only thing I would test for that you haven't is Phosphates. They too can cause cyano. You did well lowering your light cycle, but you also should make sure to increase your flow in those areas that show the cyano. Even if it is just temporary point your powerheads directly at that area for maximum flow. You can also use the produce Red Slime Remover by Chemiclean without fear for your tank inhabitants. I've used it many times effectively. Just follow the directions on the box. By increasing the flow in those areas and using that product, I can assure you your cyano issues will be gone soon. Do check your phosphates though, you may have an issue you aren't aware of there.>
Thanks for all the help you've provided me over the years,
<Hope that helps, Jessy>
Matt

New Live Rock and Cyano 11/6/08
Crew - I have a 2 year old 65g with a 35g fuge run EcoSystem method. I run GFO, UV, 2 units of ChemiPure Elite and one unit of carbon. I change everything 2 months apart. I skim wet and do not over feed and have 7 small fish in the tank with a standard clean up crew. I do 12g WC's with NSW every week. About a month and a half ago I added some new Fiji live rock (about 8lbs) that was cured.or so I was led to believe. All water parameters are totally in line and my Phosphate readings are zero no matter who measures it.  Over the past couple of weeks one of the new rocks developed some cyano that while not totally out of control really surprised me as the rock was cured. I figured it was leaching something causing the cyano so I blew it off when it appeared or my clean up crew had a feast. On the new rock now it's all but gone.  But now I am noticing some small patches of it on other parts of my mature rock. It's not a lot but when you have no nuisance algae to speak for over 2 years of excellent system management then this cyano appears just a few weeks after I put in the new rock and new GFO I am wondering if the new rock has caused a tiny cycle or it leached some bacteria into the water causing the cyano?
<Possibly>
I buy my RO/DI from my LFS and they swear there is no TDS in their water and I believe them as I have been buying it for years from them and never once had a problem.
Thoughts?
<So far, I think this is "normal." Every time you change something with a system, it's bound to go through an adjustment period. For now I wouldn't worry about it... just wait to see if it doesn't get better on its own.>
Many thanks on this historic election night in this great land of ours:-)
<Indeed!>
Geno
<Best,
Sara M.>

Cyano problem...can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. 10/31/08
Hello Crew
<Mark.>
Happy Halloween!
<My least favorite of holidays/celebrations. I know, party pooper.>
I'M FRUSTRATED! I have the BGA problem that I designed my system to avoid. I've read all the WWM stuff, but can't figure out what else to do. System set up in late April 2008: Tank: 90 gal acrylic, with 1 center overflow. I modified the standard drain and increased it to 1.5" and made a stand-pipe for noise reduction. Approx. 60-70 lbs of Live Rock, and less than an inch of aragonite substrate, but not the sugar fine stuff slightly larger than that. Filtration: I built a 3 compartment acrylic sump, with dimensions of 30"x18"x18". Total volume of the sump under operation is about 20 gal. A 6 gal Inlet area holds an Aqua C EV-120 running on a Mag 5. The 6 gal center compartment is for return via a MAG 7, and the 8 gal right compartment serves as a refugium that over flows back to the center for return. The tank drain is split off with most of the raw water going to the Skimmer, and flow to the refugium is controlled with a gate valve. I have over 4" of aragonite in the refugium (DSB) along with a clump of Chaetomorpha. I'm running a bag of carbon in the sump return area, as well as Sea Chem PhosGuard. There is no "filter media" in this system. None of the pumps has the foam suction filter on it. The only Mechanical filtration is the skimmer.
<Sounds fine.>
Lighting: Tank has (2) 150W 10K Coral life Metal Halide Fixtures and 2x55 watt PC Actinics for looks. Metal halides are on for about 11.5 hrs, Actinics come on in the morning, go off, and come on again in the evening. It's getting time probably to replace the MH bulbs, they are 2 years old this month.
<Yes, definitely time to replace. This can be a source of nuisance algae/BGA. The color shift over this amount of time makes the pests more competitive. May very well be your big issue.>
Refugium has a 17W grow light on a reverse cycle to the tank.
<I would increase this also, to at least double. Many say their macro grows great with such a low wattage, but more is better (within reason, you don't want to fry the stuff either!). The idea is to make any nutrients in your tank the limiting factor on the macro growth, not the light.>
Circulation: I have a ¾" closed loop around the top with (4) ½" outlets running on a MAG 18. Bio Load: (1) Sail Fin Tang (2) Percula Clowns (1) 6-Line Wrasse (1) Coral Beauty (1) Hammer Coral (small right now but growing well) (1) rock covered with Star Ployps (4) Cortez Hemits (1) Blue leg Hermit (2) Peppermint Shrimp Water Quality: I have a 5 stage RO/DI unit from Air Water and Ice (Typhoon III). Water checks 0 TDS with a hand held meter. Water is aerated for at least 24 hrs, most always more, prior to mixing with salt, (Instant Ocean Reef Crystals). I do a minimum 10 gal change every week, increased to 20 gal recently to try to eliminate the BGA.
<Of course you should continue this until the problem is resolved.>
I use a Tunze Auto Top off system with the RO/DI water. I use Reef Buffer in the Top Off water to help keep the dKh in the tank between 10 and 11. I clean my Skimmer cup 2 or 3 times per week. Water Chemistry: s.g. 1.024-1.025 PH 8.3 dKh 11 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0 (I've never seen even a trace of Nitrate) Phosphate 0 (at least less than .5ppm) Calcium 400 to 450 (supplement one per month with Sea Chem Reef Complete Feeding: I feed once every morning, a mix of Formula 1 and 2 (small pellets). Occasionally (once per month) I feed some dry algae on a clip. Occasionally I feed a small cube of frozen Mysis Shrimp to the hammer coral, but the fish eat most if not all of it. I don't believe that I'm "over" feeding.  …None of it hits the bottom before the fish eat it.
<Good.>
Problem: This stuff is growing all over the substrate. I've tried physical removal by scooping substrate out and rinsing, I've increase water changes, I've directed flow from the closed loop directly down at the substrate. It just keeps coming back! It is actually growing on the suction screen fitting for the closed loop pump feed in the tank, which is odd because it is a high flow area. I'm getting a little of it on the back wall as well. I just can't seem to knock this stuff out.  I really don't have any other problem algae in the tank. I'm starting to get a nice Coralline growth on the rock and back of the tank. I've had the hammer coral for a short period, less than 8 weeks, but it is doing very well. I see new growth starting on it in two places. It is getting bigger. Everything in this tank is healthy. The only thing I can think of is that the light on the sump isn't enough to get the Chaetomorpha to grow and export nutrients. It hasn't grown since I put it in there in June but it still looks healthy.
<Yep, more lighting will help. BGA outgrowing Cheato, you need to shift things about a bit to make the Chaeto outcompete the BGA.>
Also, I'm not exactly sure what type of "cleaning" I need to do in the refugium.  I pretty much just leave it alone. I have no BGA in the sump at all.
<Same as the tank, a mostly just enough flow to keep things stirred up, not settling.>
Any advice you could give me? What do I need to change?
<Start with the lighting, both above and below.>
I'm about ready to remove the substrate completely. If you want to see the setup...go to my photo gallery at WWM. These pictures are old I have much more live rock in the tank now. http://bb.wetwebmedia.com/gallery/menu.php?gallery=members&album_id=10 <Very nice furniture grade setup!>
Thanks for the great site! Mark Gustin
<Thank you, Scott V.>

Re: Cyano problem...can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.  11/2/08
Thanks for the reply Scott V.
<Welcome.>
I suspected that the refugium light wasn't adequate. There are so many different responses to this question in the FAQ's......I was skeptical of the ones saying that a small grow light was "plenty", but I had to try it.
<It can grow it, but why make lighting the limiting factor.>
I also found that my metal halide bulbs are actually marked 14K.....I'm going to replace them with 10K's. They only had one 10K bulb in stock, and the others were all 20K. So I bought the 10K bulb and installed it beside the other 14K.....not a very big difference visually. I'll have to order another bulb.
<Likely close to the same given the age, but the 10000K will be more intense.>
I expected the 14k bulb to have more blue in it than the 10K....There is a visual difference but I think it has more to do with age of the bulb than the temp.
<Tis the case.>
I'm going to see if I can find a better light to put in the cabinet.
<Good, if you have a local Costco, do look for the patio CF fixtures. Under $10 and a 65 watt quad compact 6500K (perfect for Chaeto.) bulb.>
Thanks again
<My pleasure.>

Re: Cyano problem...can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. 11/3/08
I have looked for those type fixtures....they just aren't available around here. Seems like most of the "outdoor" flood light fixtures are moving to the Halogen bulbs....way to hot!
<Yeah, stay away from those.>
I just ordered a 55 watt "bright" kit from AHSupply. It's only a few bucks more than some of the 26 watt outdoor flood light fixtures at Menards. I found a 65 watt fixture at Do It Best but they want $40, and two weeks to order and deliver. I'll have this one before the end of the week. I can build a housing for it and mount it easily. I already have 2 of these fixtures above the tank for the actinics so I can get the bulbs all at the same time from the same place.
<Sounds perfect.>
Hopefully this will get the Chaeto. growing!
<I am confident, do let us know the difference.>
It seems that many of the pet stores are not carrying the fish supplies they used to. I can't get the stuff I need without buying it on-line...even the salt water only stores are not keeping the inventory, but instead are ordering it. Even for items like salt in the 160 gal bucket, seems they want to sell bags. I'm finding that even with shipping charges I can save a little money ordering on-line. I'd rather buy it local, but if I have to wait two weeks and make two trips to the store.....?
<I will restrain from ranting on this one, but I am in total agreement. If a specialty store has to order basic items, I usually go somewhere else. More and more that means online.>
Thanks again
Mark Gustin
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>

Re: Cyano problem...can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. 11/26/08
Scott V.
<Hello Mark.>
Well it's been a few weeks since I made the changes you suggested. I replaced the M.H. bulbs and installed a 55W 10K Power Compact over the sump. The Chaeto is growing!
<Great!>
I had to leave town for a week....well...ok...I went on a Cruise of the Southern Caribbean for 7 days. It was a rough life! Got to Scuba Dive in Bonaire and Dominica......wish I could bring it all back and put it in my tank! Sorry, don't mean to rub it in.
<Hmmm, working on it myself, have not quite made it out there yet!>
My son fed the fish and kept the skimmer clean for me, but I didn't want him performing water changes...so we got behind on those for a few days. Upon my return I was amazed at how much the Chaeto had grown in such a short time. The Cyano is still there, but it appears to be a much lighter color. Instead of the rust brown color, it's now light green and not as thick. I am noticing some Cyano showing up in the refugium as well with the increased light. Overall, I think I'm gaining on it due to the obvious change in color and consistency. Considering I let it go for about 8 days, I expected the tank to be worse than it was when I returned since I had been doing water changes twice per week. The growth rate of the Cyano seems to be slowing. Time will tell! At least the Chaeto is growing...let's hope it can out compete the Cyano.
<Great! Do keep us posted on how this progresses.>
Thanks again
Mark Gustin
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Cyano problem...can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. 12/10/08
Scott V.,
<Hello again Mark!>
Well, it's been another two weeks and things are progressing well with project Cyano eradication. A little over a week ago the algae was showing signs of retreat. Since I had previously removed much of the substrate, I decided to remove the remainder and switch to reef sand instead. I wanted to use sand from the start, but couldn't find it locally for a good price until now. I physically removed as much of the remaining Cyano along with the substrate and then put 30# of rinsed sand in the tank. After a short period, less than 24 hrs, of murky water, the tank looks great after more than a week. The remaining Cyano on the back walls is slowly going away.
I think we've got this gunk beat!
<Awesome, good to hear of your success!>
Thanks Scott for pointing me in the right direction, or at least confirming what I thought was going on!
<My pleasure to help out a bit.>
I've read a lot of posts on Cyano/BGA and most do not report back with progress. I just want to say to everyone having this problem that it can be beat without Chemicals! I wasn't 100% sure it could be done, but it can with a proper setup.
<It sure can. Cheers.>
Mark Gustin

Norm-Defying Cyano...Actually Typical 10/30/08
Hello Crew!
<Hello.>
I am back at it again after this summers disastrous crash (you may not know what I am talking about but it was a terrible disaster while I was away- everything but everything died- I wrote to you guys about it back then).
<I do recall reading this, vaguely.>
I am giving it another go however and I wanted your opinion on something. I have read your cyano faqs and the cyano page, but my problem is perplexing and these pages don't seem to answer the question... First the tank set up-40 gallon Breeder, Current Dual Satellite 96 watt lamp (almost 10 months old), Aqua C Remora skimmer, Millenium 3000 HOB filter, 2 Hydor Koralia powerheds. About 80 pounds of live rock, 50 pounds of oolite and 1 Lamnalia, 2 Ocellaris, an Algae Blennie and a Strawberry Basslet. Assorted snails and crabs. 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite/Nitrate, pH 8.2, Salinity 1.027, dKH 12, um, what else, oh yeah R/O water with a cartridge that is 6 months old. The tank is fed only every other night, and not with much.
<Okay.>
Here is the issue. After the crash everything went normally in terms of a new cycle. SO I started adding stuff. Then all of a sudden, 3 weeks ago out of nowhere I get a crazy bad cyano outbreak (the fish were in at this point). But only on the substrate. The rest of the tank is so clean that the Blenny needs to be supplemented feeding wise. But not the substrate. At the time I also notice that there are weird air bubbles forming under the surface of the sand (you can see where the sand meets the glass). And oddly enough it is really only forming where there is pretty good flow, like right in front of the front glass. Where there is little or no flow, it isn't growing at all. And from what I have read here the lights shouldn't be helping to grow it either.
<Is a factor.>
I have tried everything, water changes, no water changes, less light, less food. hand removal, Marine S.A.T. and nothing seems to be working. Could this be something left over from the crash that is lurking beneath the substrate and feeding the cyano?
<Possibly, but you are basically experiencing the normal growing pains seen in new setups, basically what you have on your hands.>
It's terrible I mean it looks like there is a brown carpet over the whole thing.
<This happens, and sucks!>
How will I defeat this? Do I need to remove all the substrate and start with fresh risking a new cycle?
<Was this rinsed after the crash? If not dead and decaying matter in the substrate could be the cause, or at least a contributing factor. I would not replace it, at the most rinse it. Although I would be hesitant to do that at this point. With livestock in the tank just keep sticking with your regimen, you will have to cure this much like the rock.>
My kids keep harassing me to get rid of it and all I can tell them is 'I am trying'!  Any insight you have would be hugely helpful I feel like I am losing this war... Perhaps Neptune doesn't want me to be an Aquarist...
<Nah, normal stuff. Time, patience and perseverance. Scott V.>

Algae on Sand...BGA 10/28/08 Hello crew...In the last couple of days I started to get some sort of algae on my sand bed. <Annoying!> I have tried to suction it out with some success, but it just continues to reappear. Please help me out guys. I hardly ever have problems with my reef setup. <Great.> Oh yeah, when I first noticed it I also did a 30% water change. I noticed hardly any results but have included a picture of my problem. Thanks, Stephen <This is a simple case of BGA/diatoms. See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm and the above linked files for control protocol. Welcome, Scott V.>

No question, Big Thanks   10/8/08
Hi Crew,
The red slime plague is gone thanks to you!
<Ahh!>
New lights, flow, and feeding really did the trick in about 4 weeks along with other tips such as "suck as you brush" to prevent further spread. I have spent hundreds of hours on your website learning this new 9 month old hobby
(acquired 55 gallon reef) and preparation for new seahorse tank. OK, so I'm retired and can spend the time. Most importantly I've learned to "read before you leap". My mistakes are minimized now with due diligence and patience.
So Thank you, Thank you! I know you're volunteers and I really appreciate your dedication. Your humor cracks me up.
I look forward to seeing Bob & Scott in Colorado in April, 2009. And I promise not to embarrass them with too much gushing.
Peg Hill
<See you there. BobF>