Logo
Please visit our Sponsors
FAQs on Betta Diseases/Health 33

Related Articles: Anabantoids/Gouramis & Relatives, Betta splendens/Siamese Fighting Fish, Betta Systems, Betta Diseases, Improved (Better?) Products for Bettas!,

Related FAQs: Betta Disease 1, Betta Disease 2, Betta Disease 3, Betta Disease 4, Betta Disease 5, Betta Disease 6, Betta Disease 7, Betta Disease 8, Betta Disease 9 , Betta Disease 10 , Betta Disease 11 , Betta Disease 12 , Betta Disease 13 , Betta Disease 14 , Betta Disease 15 , Betta Disease 16 , Betta Disease 17 , Betta Disease 18, Betta Disease 19, Betta Disease 20, Betta Disease 21, Betta Health 22, Betta Health 23, Betta Health 24, Betta Health 25, Betta Health 26, Betta Health 27, Betta Health 28, Betta Health 29, Betta Health 30, Betta Health 31, Betta Health 32, Betta Health 34, Betta Health 35,
Betta Disease Causes/Etiologies: Determining/Diagnosing, Environmental (By far the largest cat.), Nutritional, Viral/Cancer, Infectious (Bacterial, Fungal) , Parasitic: Ich/White Spot, Velvet; Senescence/Old Age, Cures/Curatives/Treatments,
FAQs on Betta Medicines
: Betta Medicines period, Antibiotics/Antibacterials, Anti-Protozoals (Metronidazole, eSHa...), Copper, Formalin, Malachite Green, Anthelminthics, Organophosphates, Salts, All Other Betta Med.s,

 

New Print and eBook on Amazon

Betta Success

Doing what it takes to keep Bettas healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

What's wrong with my Bettas (RMF, feel free to chip in)      1/12/17
I have two Betta fish I got from Wal-Mart 4 days ago and I think they are really sick I believe both are males they are in different tanks.
<Just as well.>
The first two pictures attached are of the Betta i have the highest concern about he doesn't eat well and just sits at bottom of tank no changed his water and one of his fins broke off
<Is this the blue fish?>
he's gasping for air and has a copper velvet look to his face and the other Betta seems ok but has discolor around his face and beard i have NutraFin Betta plus should I add to their tanks?
<A good rule is not to add medication unless you've diagnosed the problem.
Imagine if your doctor just picked out some random medications and gave them to you without asking what the problem was! Obviously not a good idea.
So, first things first, need to review the tank. Almost always, sick Bettas are sick because of their environment. I'm sure there are exceptions but I've never seen one. So, in other words, let's review the tank. At minimum, check the biological filter is working, and check the heater is working.
Let me be clear here: lack of filter and lack of heat are excellent ways to kill Bettas. Grab an ammonia or nitrite test kit, and test the water. Of the two kits, I prefer nitrite (with an "i", not nitrate with an "a").
Anyway, anything that is not zero is why your fish might be sick. Non-zero ammonia and nitrite kill fish, quickly or slowly depending on how much over zero they are. Secondly, look at the thermometer. Your tank should be about 25 C/77 F. Some unscrupulous fish shops will tell you a Betta can be kept in an unheated tank. Maybe spouting some baloney about central heating or placing a lamp over the tank. This is rubbish. Unless you keep the heater in your house set at 25 C/77 F (which is insanely hot!) your room is too cold, and Bettas are very sensitive to both cold water and, crucially, cold air (because they breathe air). So check the thermostat, and if necessary, turn the heater up. Cold Bettas become lethargic, their fins become clamped, they stop eating, and before long infections get hold of them, including Finrot.>
I also have Marcel CopperSafe medication should i treat both tanks?
<See above. Neither fish seems to have any obvious disease beyond stress, so my diagnosis would be environmental. Review; correct; wait for nature to take its course. Adding medications for Finrot or Fungus without fixing the environmental cause is pointless.>
Can i use these two treatments together? If so how much of each? I have attached photos of my Bettas and the treatments i have I'm urgently seeking a response in fear my fish will die soon thank u so much for reading this.
<Let me direct you to some reading:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/bettadiseases.htm
Aside from that summary, Bob's electronic book is probably the best $6 you'll spend if you're serious about keeping Bettas long term. Hope this helps, Neale.>


Betta PopEye question     1/8/17
Hi,
<Howdy!>
I have a juvenile Crowntail Betta in a 10 gallon aquarium, whom I "rescued" about a month ago from Wal-Mart where he sat in very dirty water for who knows how long. He's about 1.5 inches long and lives on his own. The aquarium has a heater, a filter stacked with a foam sponge and ceramic media, an air stone, and some silk plants. I change some of
the water once a week. The water temperature is 80 F, the pH is 7, and the nitrite level is 0. I feed him small pellets and occasionally a shrimp log. (He was not interested in live ghost shrimp, which I tried to give him for a protein boost.)
<Mmm; Ghost Shrimp? Likely much too large...>
He already had bilateral PopEye when I rescued him, though one side was (and still is) noticeably more swollen than the other, and for the past month I've tried various treatments to fix it.
<Just good conditions and nutrition... Your good care, will likely solve these issues in time>
At first I was hopeful clean water would suffice and that he would heal on his own, but after his first two weeks and there was no change, I then tried aquarium salt (following the advice of Dr Martin Brammah, author of The Betta Bible), which seemed to soften the edges of his swollen eyes a little but didn't do much else, and then put him in QT with a full course of tetracycline.
Nothing has solved his problem yet, and now his worse eye appears cloudy, so the condition seems to be worsening instead of improving.
<Mmm; I might try Epsom...>
After searching through your site's articles and FAQs, I am prepared to try a double-strength dose of Jungle's "Fungus Clear" and 2 TBSP Epsom salt three times in 5 days with small daily water changes. My questions are: (1) Do I need to replace the aquarium salt water with plain water before starting Epsom salts or can they be combined?
<I'd dilute the present salt content by half or so first... Through a water change or two>
(2) Should I do the double-strength dose of Fungus Clear three times in 5 days as well, or does the "three times in 5 days" only apply to the Epsom salts?
<IF you use the Fungus Clear, only dose three times, do NOT triple dose. If it were me/mine, I'd just the Epsom>
(3) Do I need to QT him for this combined treatment or can I keep him in his display tank?
<Best to leave, treat in the display tank>
and (4) When should I expect to see improvement, to know
if I then need to move on to something like Chloramphenicol or Oxytetracycline?
<I'd shy away from using these antibiotics. They rarely do much/any good in these circumstances, and can do real harm. >
Thank you so much!
-Elle J.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Betta PopEye question      1/28/17
Hi,
<Elle,>
This is an update on my Betta's PopEye condition, and I have a new question. Despite Epsom salt treatment, and later the Fungus Clear, there has been no change in his eyes. They are no worse, but no better either.
<That at least suggests the infection has leveled off, or the eye is not being further damaged. Fish eyes take a long time to heal, weeks if not months. Sometimes they never heal and the eye eventually falls off, though losing one eye rarely inconveniences the fish noticeably. Losing both eyes is more of an issue, except in the case of those nocturnal species like catfish and loaches that barely use their eyes anyways.>
And now there seems to be a new issue, with it being nearly impossible to keep the display tank clean.
<I see this.>
The tank developed cloudy debris after the Fungus Clear treatment, so it was emptied and thoroughly rinsed (including plants), and brand new (thoroughly rinsed) gravel put in. It was beautifully clear at first, but then the debris came back. Approximately 3 days after a 20-25% water change, the water becomes cloudy with white dust-like debris, and when I
test the water it shows PPM of "1" for nitrites, which is just inside the "stress" level, as well as a 6.2 pH, which I know is low for a Betta.
<Quite so. Below pH 7, biological filtration proceeds more slowly, and is has been observed that the bacteria responsible hardly work at all below pH 6. So in tanks where pH is significantly below 7, a combination of low stocking/modest feeding to minimise nutrient input; generous provision of the finest (in size) viable filter media to trap silt and host bacteria per square cm; and the use of fast-growing plants will all help to maintain good water quality. One problem with Betta tanks is the need for low flow rates, which means water passes through the biological media slowly. Any
persistent scum on the surface of a lightly-stocked tank usually comes down to inadequate water movement. So realistically, what you're dealing with is an imperfect balance of flow rate, filter medium type, pH, and possibly
residual silt from the new gravel. Try increasing flow rate, up to the point your Betta will tolerate happily; try using a finer grade of medium to trap silt particles. Improving water circulation will help break up the scum at the surface, so an airstone or even cleverer siting of the existing filter (or its outlet) to splash the water more and draw a steady current
around the tank. Make sense?>
My son has an established, healthy tank, and I added some of that "dirty" water to help establish mine with healthy bacteria again, but it's not made a difference.
<See above; though adding healthy filter medium from his tank could certainly jump-start a lacklustre biological filter.>
I've tested the water right out of the tap and the pH is closer to 6.8, so maybe something in the tank is causing the pH to drop.
<Usually some combination of: decaying organic matter generally; driftwood or some other source of tannins; accumulating nitrate (which forms nitric acid); accumulating phosphate (phosphoric acid); high CO2 concentration
from inadequate water movement at the surface (which forms carbonic acid).
In addition, overuse of pH-down products will, of course, cause an unstable, declining pH.>
I don't know if the high nitrites and the low pH are related or coincidental, and I have no idea what could be causing the debris in a newly cleaned 10-gallon tank with one tiny Betta in it. I've trained him to swim into a cup, so I can remove him from the tank for easier feedings since his vision is impaired, so his tank never even sees food. I can't think what could be causing debris or high nitrites.
<Understood; but see above: there are other sources of acidity.>
Some friends have suggested fewer water changes, to allow the bacteria to establish, but I don't like him being in water with high nitrites for
longer than necessary, especially considering his ongoing PopEye problem.
<Water changes are immaterial to establishing a filter bacteria once the initial ammonia and nitrite spikes have passed. Virtually all the bacteria we want are on solid surfaces near flowing water, whether the filter media or across the outside of solid objects like gravel particles or plant leaves. Of course if you set a tank up from scratch, and do so many water changes the ammonia never stays above zero for long, it'll take a long while for filter bacteria to become established. Hence levels of 0.5, 1, or even higher are tolerated during the first 4-6 weeks. But once the filter bacteria are established, water changes are all good, provided water chemistry and temperature stay steady.>
It's been approximately two weeks and the debris is building and getting worse between changes. I greatly appreciate any advice you may have about what might be going on and how to fix it? Thank you! -Elle J.
<Hope this helps. Neale.>

Swollen Lip, now swollen gill (RMF, anything to add?) <<Zip. B>>     12/31/16
Hello, I have had a 20 Gallon Betta sorority tank for about 9 months now.
<Not totally convinced these work, though I understand they're popular.
Much better, in my opinion, is to keep a single female alongside harmless community species such as Corydoras spp.>
I have had to restock the tank twice due to gradual deaths (crown tails popping from overeating, a few have just become ill and progressed to the point of death with no outward sign of why), and one of the fish quickly developed Ich a day or two after bringing her home. I separated her once I noticed it and treated her with API Ich Cure for a week and a single dose
in the community tank while watching to see if anyone else developed it (they didn't).
<Hmm... I'd be skeptical, because Whitespot is so very contagious.>
Unfortunately the tank I used to separate her (5 gallon with internal filter) had a fairly strong filter current that she detested more than the Ich. She found the only hole in the lid and was able to jump out, which I discovered about 20 minutes later. She was a cold fish but recovered from her escape and from the Ich, and I dampened the outflow of the filter such that it barely disturbed the tank (and used painters tape to make sure there were no gaps big enough for her to jump out again). She was happy there for several months as any attempt to putting her back with the rest was a failure (she would quickly isolate once she felt ganged-up-on even following sorority protocol of having the newest/weakest fish in first, then introducing the next aggressive fish up until they're all back).
<Unfortunately this sort of thing does seem to be quite common with female Bettas. They're just not social fish, and would naturally live a more solitary sort of life. In very big groups, say, ten specimens, none would be dominant. But if you're keeping two or three or four specimens, it does seem to me that female Bettas are apt to be intolerant of one another. Why, I cannot say. But your experience is by no means unusual.>
During this time I found a wooden cave that I wanted to string with moss to make a cute arrangement, not knowing at the time that reptile-suitable wood is often not suitable for fish. A white mold or fungus developed on the wood and the nearby sand which would detach easily if disturbed.
<Correct. Unless wood is cured first (which means soaking in water for some months) it contains organic material. When placed in water said material becomes damp enough to support fungi, which doesn't happen in reptile vivaria. Bottom line, the wood rots. Or cures, if you prefer! The fungus is harmless, and some fish (like big Plecs) will even eat it. But it doesn't
do any good to water quality, and there's also a risk the decaying wood can affect water chemistry too.>
Any attempt to clean off the fungus (rubbing off under tap water with fingers or toothbrush) only lasted about a week before it was right back.
<Yes; curing takes some months, if not years. Hence aquarium bogwood is normally harvested from rivers and swamps where the wood has been cured naturally, perhaps over many years.>
I finally got rid of the wood, sucked out as much of the mold as possible, and the tank seemed to settle down into clarity. It was toward the end of the battle with the mold that I noticed her mouth began to get swollen, especially the lower lip. It didn't seem to bother her much except needing to push a little more above the water to breathe. Water changes, aquarium salt, heat at ~84 degrees, Melafix, and Pimafix have done nothing to get the swelling to go down.
<Let me be clear here, that both Melafix and Pimafix are, at best, unreliable; at worst, toxic. They're marketed as being somehow "natural" but that's very misleading because it implies they're safe. A little time reading over WWM will report many instances where these two have either done no good at all, or perhaps made things worse. If I was being charitable about them, I'd suggest they have a role preventing infection, e.g., if fins are damaged by fighting. But once you see symptoms, it's time to get out the big boys: antibiotics, copper- and formalin-based medications, or whatever else is appropriate to your situation and location.>
I was originally hoping the swelling would go down once the source of the fungus was gone, assuming that her mouth had the same fungus as the wood, but it has not.
<There's almost zero chance the fungus on the wood is the fungus on your fish! The two things are unrelated, except perhaps that decaying wood affected water quality, and that made your Betta more prone to infection.
But the actual fungus species involved will almost certainly be different.>
It appears that it's either still there and fairly benign, or has altered her face permanently like little fish warts. It does not seem to affect her eating, color, or movement, just a bit with the breathing. About 2 weeks ago I was critically low on fish in my main tank (along with a very fat remaining crown tail that was becoming very food aggressive), so I got 4 new girls, moved this swollen lip fish to the 20 gallon sorority tank, and moved my fatty to the 5 gallon to control her food better. I introduced the
new girls first together, then this swollen lip fish since she also hadn't been with other recently, then on up the aggression ladder until everyone was in. They are all surprisingly happy together and I've had by far the least amount of aggression visible so far. Everyone seems very balanced aggression-wise, though there have been a few tears in fins here and there in the 4 new girls. Back to the swollen-lipped fish. I have recently noticed one of her gills is staying a bit flared permanently, as if the tissue below is swollen.
<This is actually fairly common on farmed Bettas; whether caused by trauma or genetics I cannot say. Untreatable, but may improve if it isn't genetic. On the other hand, if Whitespot or Velvet were in the tank at some point, physical damage, i.e., trauma, to the gill lamellae is extremely likely.
Exposure to non-zero ammonia levels can also cause damage, similar to the "Gill Curl" seen in bigger aquarium fish like Arowanas and some cichlids.>

She has been acting a little off today, staying by the top a lot and just a tad less active. I have just separated her into a 1.5 gallon quarantine tank with heater and bubble filter (though that is now off as she is just so sensitive to water movement, no carbon). Temp is at 85 degrees (20 gallon has been at 84 since adding all the new fish to help keep them healthier).
<This is often more to do with the warmer air above the tank, which is crucial; optimal water temperature is actually a little lower for Bettas generally.>
There is no visible "cotton" or fungus in her mouth, just what I assume are her little teeth showing on the bottom more swollen lip.
<I agree. This looks post-infection to me. No specific treatment I can think of, but I would be optimising living conditions and diet.>
For her gill, I see the edge of her beard (I've always been able to see a little line of black beard when she's resting) and what almost looks like an added blue scale growing from the edge of her gill flap. I see no redness, white stuff, or anything to point toward a specific disease. It literally looks as if she's flared so hard one side won't go down all the way. I should also note that her anal fin is much longer than my other girls, and has grown out some as she's aged, so I almost wonder if she's some sort of poorly-breed mutant that keeps growing new stuff (tally of her anal fin, her mouth puffiness, and her gill of weird growths). She has now had the swollen mouth for about 2-3 months, so I'm doubting Columnaris, but I'm looking for whatever heavier treatment would help. I have had a very hard time finding info that seems in line with what she's dealing with to feel comfortable dosing her with something yet. Thank you for any and all help!
<Hope the above helps. Cheers, Neale.>

Tumor on Betta       12/26/16
Hi Crew,
My 2 year old plakat Betta Raji has developed a tumor (cyst, abscess?) at the base of his right ventral fin. In the photos it is the dark mass appearing to hang down at the base of his throat.
<I see this in your excellent pix>

The tumor appears to be growing within the fin base and is the same color as the body. The growth is about the size of a baby pea. I noticed his ventral fin getting fuller, but thought it was normal. I did not notice the severe enlargement until today. I have been distracted by the serious illness of another family member for the past few weeks, so I don't know if
it happened overnight or over the past few weeks.
Raji is in a heated, cycled and filtered 3 gallon tank with driftwood and a live Anubias. I change his water every 5 days (50% in two stages over 30 minutes to minimize stress). He normally eats a combination of Spectrum pellets and frozen brine shrimp, although lately, he has refused the pellets and will only eat brine shrimp.
Ammonia and nitrite are both zero and nitrates are around 5 ppm.
Raji is active although his appetite is not as robust as in the past.
Do you think the growth is a tumor or could it be some sort of an infection, parasite or cyst? The tissue over the growth is the same as the surrounding healthy tissue and is not discolored in any way.
Thank you for any suggestions or insight you may have into my little guy's strange growth.
Susan
<I do have a suggested treatment mode here. It involves three approaches:
1) The administration of iodide-ate to the water directly; via a commercial product for marine aquarium use... an example:
http://www.seachem.com/reef-iodide.php
administered per the instructions for whatever product you end up using...
Daily for three days then stopping for three more; then re-administering the same>
2) The application of a quarter tsp. of Epsom Salt to the water (dissolved first), and its replenishment with water changes.
3) The soaking of foods in a vitamin et al. supplement; an example here: http://www.seachem.com/vitality.php
This done every feeding for a few minutes before the food is offered.
I suspect this tumor is related to the equivalent of the thyroid of higher vertebrates; and these steps will hopefully bring about a reversal of this tumor's growth. Bob Fenner>

Re: Tumor on Betta       12/26/16
Thank you Bob!
<Welcome Susan>
To clarify, do I choose just one approach (for example, administering Sea Chem Iodide to the tank) or do I combine all three?
<All three; these treatment moda are all "mix-able">
If I am to only choose one approach, do I continue the product until the growth is gone, or as in the case of the Iodide, only administer for the two doses?
<The iodide for just the two dosage series, the others for a month>
In the case of the Vitality, can it be used until the tumor is resolved?
<Yes; like human supplements, very safe to augment nutrition>
Same with the Epsom salts addition to the water change?
<I would only use the MgSO4 for a month; dilute through water changes after>
Thanks again,
Susan
<Clarity is pleasurable; sorry for its lack here. BobF>

Sick quarantined Betta     10/5/16
Hi,
Nearly four week ago I lost all my female Bettas due to suspected columnaris after adding new fish I foolishly never quarantined first.
<Not always a problem, you know! Depends a lot on the retailer. The best retailers quarantine the stock for you, and take care to minimise the risk of diseases spreading between tanks. Look for the use of UV sterilisers and, always a good giveaway clue, dipping nets in steriliser between uses.
In the UK, the Maidenhead Aquatics chain are usually very good, and if you have problems, it's worth writing to the manager. All this said, in the ideal world yes, you'd quarantine all new livestock before putting in the display tank. I'm just cognizant of the fact people in small houses/apartments don't have space for two tanks, and oftentimes landlords are touchy about even one small aquarium, let alone two!>
I have 1 female left and a little Oto in a quarantine tank and the original tank has been stripped down and all plants, gravel etc thrown away. Lucy (Betta) did not eat for nearly 3 weeks and then she suddenly ate loads and looked to be recovering.
<Cool.>
The last 3 days she looks like she is going to die again.
<Not cool.>
The little Oto looks unaffected. I have done three treatments of ESHa 2000.
I have also given ESHa Mineroll to give her a vitamin boost. I really don't know what else I can do so any advice or help would be gratefully appreciated.
<I would stick to what you're doing. Up the temperature a bit if relevant (Bettas thrive on warmth, 28C/30F probably ideal) while being moderate with feeding so as to avoid water quality issues or indeed plain overfeeding. A water change before adding that day's medicine is always a good call, provided water chemistry isn't changed too much.>
I don't want to euthanize her but I also don't want to see her suffer anymore.
<Understood. I'd give it a week and see what happens.>
My second question is if Lucy passes away how long should I quarantine the little Oto before putting him in my community tank?
<A good rule of thumb is to wait a month to six weeks. That's usually long enough for any latent diseases or parasites to make themselves known.>
Thank you for your help.
Sammie
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: Sick quarantined Betta      10/6/16

Your advice is great as always but she died tonight. Poor girl fought a hard battle. It is a shame she didn't make it. I will follow your advice with my little quarantined Oto though.
Thanks Neale.
Sammie
<Ah, too bad. I think you were unlucky. You did what was necessary. Let the tank settle for a few weeks, then start over, and I hope everything will be just fine. Regards, Neale.>

Afraid I have a beta with fin rot      9/12/16
<.... seven megs of uncropped....>
We got a male beta,
<Betta>
Elwood, just over 2 weeks ago. He has seemed very healthy and active - comes to the glass when he sees us, even chases my hand and swims into it if I put it in the tank to arrange his landscape. He is alone in a 5-gallon, heated, filtered, tank which was fully cycled before we got him.
<Good>
The cycle was just complete a couple of days before, so I’ve been checking readings every other day. Consistently 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and nitrate running about 20 ppm. The pH of our water is high
<How high? If under 8.0, I'd leave it where it is>
and we have been trying to lower it using distilled water when we do water changes, but no violent pH changes since he went in. It is currently about 7.4, maybe 7.6. I do a 50% water change weekly.
<All good>
Wednesday, I thought his fins looked a little frayed - but he’s so active it is tough to get a good look. (This was just after adding the potted plant in the background which, I realize now, might have a bit of rough edges on the pot.) I took these pictures as close-ups of his tail, as best I could get it, and decided he was OK:
<Mmm; not okay>
The next day, Thursday, I added a new, broad-leafed plant. Elwood loved it and began constantly swimming figure 8s around it and and broad-leafed silk plant next to it which are in the background of the pictures below. I did not notice that the coconut base of the new plant was very rough and that I had uncovered the slightly rough base of the silk plant when I added it. Saturday I did a 50% water change and all chemicals were fine. I didn’t check Elwood out, but I didn’t notice any problems with him either. Tonight, I saw that his tail was very torn. I took these pictures (he looks darker because of lighting problems; there has been no change in his bright blue color or visible change in the color of his fins, even at the tips):
<I see this>
It looks like fin rot to me,
<Me too>
but everything I read says that fin rot is caused by environmental factors, so that makes fin rot seem unlikely to me.
<Actually... something many new/er folks to the hobby aren't aware of; aquatic life often "shows" the effects of such stress days, weeks later. The root cause/s of the issue here likely occurred BEFORE you purchased this animal>

His tank has been kept very clean and he has not been stressed - unless adding the 2 new plants he seems to like stressed him. The coincidence of the new plants makes me wonder if he is tearing up his tail on the very rough plant base and/or pot.
<Mmm; not likely. Such tears look different>
My current plan is to buy more small gravel (like what I originally used) in the morning, wash it well, then make sure I have all the rough plant bases covered so he can’t rub against them. If that does not stop the progress of the fin problem, I think I have to treat for fin rot - correct?
<Yes>
Or should I start treatment now?
<I would treat now>
How should I treat?
<A few approaches. Please read here Re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/FWFinRot.htm
I read conflicting things about salt treatment or chemical treatment. I am leaning toward removing him to a 1-gallon-tank (I have 2),
<I'd treat in place... easier to control temp., water quality... >
slowly bringing it up to 1 tsp per gallon salt, then switching him from that tank into the other - clean water with same salt per cent - tank every day so he gets 100% water change daily for about 10 days. I read that is a valid treatment; do you agree?
<The reading please. There's too much to relate to you expediently/otherwise>
Thank you for your help. Sorry about the long email, but I wanted to give you all relevant information.
<Cheers Elaine. Bob Fenner>

Re: Afraid I have a beta with fin rot      9/13/16
Thank you for your prompt response. I did read the entire site you linked, although I admit I’m a bit cross-eyed from all the input.
<There's a bunch>
I definitely want to treat Elwood in his current tank as you suggest. I have a biological filter (foam with water pump) and don’t want to kill the useful bacteria. I am in the states, so it sounds like my best bet is Maracyn, then Maracyn 2 if the Maracyn is ineffective - correct?
<Yes; in fact, these two antibiotics can be used simultaneously>

If I can find tetracycline, will that also work with my biological filter in my planted aquarium (I saw that recommended as first choice in one response)?
<Either is good>
We are in a relatively small town and I’m probably looking at a 100-mile round trip to get medications, or a delay of 2 more days in treatment to get them shipped (and I’m afraid to delay treatment). I want to be sure before I start my trek that I know what medications are viable options so I don’t make additional trips. My husband found and bought a medicine with active ingredient 1-CHLORO-2,2,5,5-TETRAMETHYL-4-IMIDAZOLIDINONE. It goes by several brand names: Marineland All-in-One Remedy, Jungle Lifeguard, and Lifeguard All-in-One that I know of. Would it work to save me the drive?
<Worth trying here; yes>
If not, I’ll just return it. Thanks again for all the help.
Elaine
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: Afraid I have a beta with fin rot      9/13/16

I know I sent an earlier reply to you and realize we have a time difference and I couldn’t expect a response during the day today - your initial response was amazingly fast. But Elwood’s tail has visibly deteriorated since last night and I thought I had to act.
<DO change a good part of the water for now... gravel vacuuming if possible>

So I’m sending this update. I went back to the local aquarium store where my husband bought the all in one treatment and discovered they had E.M. Erythromycin (Erythromycin being the active ingredient in Maracyn),
<Yes; this is so>
as well as Tetracycline and Sulpha drugs. I started Elwood on the Erythromycin today. At this rate, if it doesn’t act quickly, he will have no tail in another 2 or 3 days and I thought speed of treatment was vital to save not just his tail, but his life. (He is the sweetest, friendliest fish I have ever known and we are very attached to him after only 2 weeks.) Please advise if you think I should have him on another treatment or have any other suggestions. Thank you.
Elaine
<Change about half the water every three days... or re-treatment interval. B>
Re: Afraid I have a beta with fin rot      9/13/16

Package advises retreatment - same amount - every 24 hours, with 25% water change every other day. Suggests total of 4 total treatments, but second round if needed. Does that sound reasonable?
<Yep>
Or would you do partial water change with each daily treatment? (Elwood never seems to mind a water change - the problem is keeping him from chasing the syphon around the tank.) Also, how long should I wait to see the fin rot at least slowing before I consider a different treatment?
<A week or so>
Elwood is still his usual happy, active self - no change in behavior or appetite which seems to be a good sign. Again, thank you for your quick response. You do such a good thing for all of us worried fish owners.
Elaine
<Cheers! Bob Fenner>

Re: Afraid I have a beta with fin rot       9/15/16
A progress report, ONE question, and another thank you. After 2 doses, less than 48 hours, with erythromycin (identical ingredients and dosage to Maracyn - I checked), the progression of the fin rot has stopped.
>Ah, good<
The edges of the tail and fins look clean and normal. (I adjusted lights to get a clearer view.) Of course, nothing is growing back yet, except I do see what looks like a bit of new growth on the forward-most littlest fins beneath his body. (Sorry about my lack of anatomy terms.) After I finish the next 2 doses and 24 hours for the last dose to work, should I just do the major water change and stop all medication if his fins and tail still look clean and normal, even though there is no re-growth yet?
<I would continue for at least one more dose/cycle>
I assume it is best not to over-medicate if the problem is fixed, but I am amazed that the medicine acted so fast.
<Mmm; how to put this: Reaction times, series often go much faster than terrestrial (experience)>
I had found some Maracyn Two and ordered it so I could start treatment with it if the Maracyn alone was not working, but at this point I see no point in adding it.
<I'd also just use the one/1 at this time>
Again, thank you!!
Elaine
<Thank you for your (upbeat, positive) report. Bob Fenner>

Re: Afraid I have a beta with fin rot      9/19/16
Hate to bother you again after all your help, but . . . I first wrote a week ago because our new beta <Betta> had developed fin rot. (messages below) Thanks to your help we started treatment with the equivalent of Maracyn on Monday and the progress of the rot stopped.
<Fish does look better>
He’d looked awful on Sunday and big chunks of his tail and lowest fin fell off on Monday. No more chunks fell off after Monday. Looking at him, the color of the tail and fins appear normal, except a bit of transparent/white which I think is new growth, and the 2 deep splits going half-way up the tail toward the body on Monday have disappeared. I’m planning to finish out this course of treatment with the last dose tomorrow, then water change and back to normal on Tuesday. Does this look like a beta on the mend that I don’t have to worry about unless the rot reoccurs?
<I would not worry; this fish appears to be in total remission.>
Again, thank you so much for your help and if you are too busy helping others to respond, that’s OK.
<Certainly welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Betta with Dropsy... Now; worse, new fish w/ infection       9/10/16
Hello,
I am so sorry to have to message again but I really need some advice.
Firstly Shine, my Betta fish with dropsy is still with us but sadly no better.
<Mmm; looks a bit better to me>
The rest of the fish from her tank appear well and we have had no problems.
I did something very stupid and I am absolutely gutted about what has happened. I have another 90 litre female Betta tank. It had 9 fish in the tank. The Ph is 7.4, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0 and Nitrate between 30 and 40. My local fish shop had some female crowntails. I noticed one of them had a white patch on it's nose area. I asked what it was and they told me it was a scrape or bite.
<Mmm; or bacterial>
I went against my instincts and purchased six. I usually quarantine fish but have never had any problems with this fish store previously. Also if I am honest I had no spare tanks as they all had fish in. I have three community tanks, one that Shine is in and six 15 to twenty litre tanks that I house my male Bettas in. I know it is no excuse and irresponsible but I
put them straight in with my girls. I know I am 100% to blame. They all looked well. I got up the next morning (today) and they all seemed fine. At lunchtime I noticed one of the new fishes on it's side with it's fins melted away. I noticed another dying, had gone from bright red to white and had no fins left. In an hour 5 had died of various symptoms from bloated stomach, melted fins and greyish patches on their bodies. My original fish were dying too. I added ESHa 2000 to the tank. Every Betta looks sick. They are nearly all gone. Strangely the Otos in the tank appear okay. I don't think I can save any. I have enclosed a photo of two fish that are barely still alive. Yesterday they were vibrant with solid colour. These two appear to have the same markings on their body that the fish in the shop had.
My husband went back to the shop and told them what was happening. They say they have had no dead fish. I am highly doubtful as they only had 3 left and yesterday afternoon there was many. He asked what he should do with the tank to clear it of whatever is killing the fish. He was told to do nothing as once the last fish dies the virus or parasite will be dead. Is that right?
<Right? Not what I'd do; no>
I would have thought that it would still have been in the gravel or water.
I trust your opinion more. Whatever is killing them is so aggressive and acts fast. I tried to research what it might be but I cannot find any information that covers how they are dying. It seems to be eating away at them. Months ago I had a Platy with fin rot and it was nothing like this.
Thank you for taking the time to read this
Sammie
<... For accurate diagnosis would need to at least sample/scrape the live fish outside, possibly some dead ones in organs of the body internally ... maybe then culture... look at under a microscope. But if these were mine... I'd treat for infectious disease. Please read through here Re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/BetDisInfeF.htm
and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_2/mycobactera.htm
Bob Fenner>

Columnaris?

Re: Betta with Dropsy         9/14/16
Hi,
I thought I would give you a quick update. I did follow your advice in regards to my female Betta Shine who had dropsy. Sadly the bloating did not go away. She hung on for nearly two weeks but passed away this morning.
Thanks for your help
Sammie
<Thank you for this follow up Sammie. BobF>


Betta hernia; umm; no       9/10/16
Hello my baby female Betta has had a long week! First her fingers split
<Fin rays.... someone traumatizing this fish>

and I did a 100% tank cleaning
<A poor idea. See WWM re "frequent partial water changes"; and "Betta Systems"
>
and added aquarium salt and she started to heal quickly about 5 days later (yesterday) I notice she wasn't with her sisters at feeding time it took a really long time to find her and when I did she was near the bottom with her tail floating up... I figured she was constipated or it is swimming bladder issues I placed her in a breeding cage in their tank and fasted her not that she was in trestle in food anyhow.
I noticed today she has what looks like a hernia and I have not been able to find any helpful information on how to treat her. any info will help! I have attached pictures of the "hernia".
Thank you
Stacy
<And search WWM w/ the string "Betta egg bound", "Betta nutrition". AFTER reading, if you have questions, concerns, please write back.
Bob Fenner>

Betta hernia       /Neale       9/10/16
Hello my baby female Betta has had a long week! First her fingers split and I did a 100% tank cleaning and added aquarium salt and she started to heal quickly about 5 days later (yesterday) I notice she wasn't with her sisters at feeding time it took a really long time to find her and when I did she was near the bottom with her tail floating up... I figured she was constipated or it is swimming bladder issues I placed her in a breeding cage in their tank and fasted her not that she was in trestle in food anyhow.
I noticed today she has what looks like a hernia and I have not been able to find any helpful information on how to treat her. any info will help! I have attached pictures of the "hernia".
Thank you
Stacy
<Hi Stacy. This isn't a hernia as such, but a prolapse of the final part of the digestive tract. Not uncommon in fish that have been exposed to less than perfect water conditions. Coupled with your report of Finrot (the frayed fins) I'd be reviewing water quality and filtration. To recap the basics: Bettas need a heated, filtered aquarium. I'd say not less than 4 to 5 gallons. Definitely not bowls! The filter should be standard biological filter, something like an air-powered sponge or small canister is ideal.
Water quality needs to be good: zero ammonia and zero nitrite. Finrot is almost always a sign of either fighting or poor water quality, and since fighting isn't an explanation here, assuming your Betta is kept alone (and it should be) then water quality is your problem. Aquarium salt isn't a treatment for either the prolapse or the Finrot, but a reliable antibiotic will help soothe the symptoms. Improving living conditions will be essential. Hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Think I have a bloated Betta        11/13/16
Things are getting grimmer. After no food from Monday morning to Wednesday morning, Elwood ate a little shrimp in the morning and a pellet in the evening Wednesday. He ate a little shrimp Thursday am. Then he started just laying at the surface, supporting himself on a suction cup holding the thermometer - for hours. Last night I thought he had caught himself on it because when I removed the aquarium lid he began spasmodically struggling. I gave him slack in the thermometer cord and he swam away. I offered him a pellet. He came to the surface like he was interested, but never ate - he seemed to lack energy. This morning he has no interest in eating and is on the surface in a corner of the tank, moving only his gills and small pectoral fins.
<Is there any ammonia, nitrite present? I'd raise the temp. to low 80s F>
He abdomen is still extended, though not extreme and no pine coning. My husband went to the local aquarium store and the guy there told him that we were killing him with well water (too many minerals), we were killing him with the half distilled water we add (not enough minerals) - and tried to sell him “Betta water”, whatever that is. He offered to test our water - for what I have no idea; I test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH - but told my husband that medication would be no help. I think Elwood will be dead soon. Any ideas? Elaine
<About the same as the fellow at the fish store. Again, the reading I referred you to. BobF>
Fwd: Think I have a bloated Betta        11/13/16

I just realized what may be the problem - why we have a second dead Betta in 4 months. We use a water softener in our house on our well water. It uses potassium chloride to soften the water. Are we killing the Betta with the potassium chloride in the water?
<Possibly. Need to know just how much chloride is in the water... do you have test gear for? Do you have your water checked by a lab regularly?>
I can get straight our well water BEFORE the softening system which will be high in calcium - taken from limestone strata and quite basic pH. Would that be safer for the Betta?
<How high Ca, hardness? Bob Fenner>
Fwd: Think I have a bloated Betta        11/13/16

One more addition. I prepared a smaller bowl of water without the water softener chemicals, matched temperature and treated it with Epsom Salt and water conditioner, and put Elwood in. I thought he was dead, but when I went to net him, he woke up and made a minor attempt to avoid the net. He swam right out of the net and around the new bowl, then settled back to the surface in a corner. I’ve offered him another pellet - no luck. I put him in a dim corner and I’m just hoping he’s comfortable. I don’t know what else to try. The abdomen is still slightly distended and lighter colored from the stretching and he’s clearly not feeling well now. Elaine
<Need data; your reading re Betta splendens tolerance... on WWM, Fishbase.org; my book on Bettas.... BobF>
Fwd: Think I have a bloated Betta        11/13/16

Elwood’s dead. After I got him in the small bowl, I could see him from above. The “bloat” was visible from above and he was badly pine-coned which I could not see when he was in his big aquarium. Please, can you tell me if I killed him with our water softener?
<Can't tell w/o data>
With our hard water (about 7.6 to 7.8)?
<This isn't a measure of hardness (there are a few... WWM); but pH... not too high (w/in range) for the species>
With not having “Betta water”? What did I do to him?? I have the heated, filtered 5-gallon aquarium and the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are all good.
<Good? Need values>
I thought I’d done everything right, even nursing him through his fin rot successfully. I’d like another Betta, but I don’t want to buy one just to kill him. I couldn’t take it and it sure wouldn’t be fair to the fish. This is the second Betta to die since August. The first I rescued from a bridal shower centerpiece and he was always sickly. But, Elwood was active and friendly and seemed healthy - except for the fin rot which was healing - until about 4 days ago. Both were cheap pet store Bettas, which I know means the may have had problems when I got them. (The first a rescue, the second - Elwood - my husband’s purchase when I was out of state.) I feel awful, and helpless, terrified to try again. Elaine
<Bettas nowayears are so stressed that it's hard to impossible to state/guess what the source of mortality is/was here. Morbidity... again; need data. B>
Re: Think I have a bloated Betta        11/13/16

Thanks for responding.
<Welcome; and sorry for the delayed responses. Have been traveling; am out in Africa>
Data: I don’t know the level of chloride in the water or hardness as opposed to pH.
<Mmm; easy enough to test for, have tested...>
I have not been having it lab tested;
<Even for your potable uses? I would>
I only have testing gear for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate and have been testing that . Ammonia consistently zero. Nitrite consistently zero. Nitrate usually about 5 ppm - always under 10 ppm.
<These are excellent values>
(Foam filter attached to pump - biological filter.) pH reads 7 right out of faucet (with softener), but that is not true reading because of aeration. If the water sits, it reads more like 7.8 - that’s as high as my chart goes.
<I see>
That’s why I’d been adding half distilled water.
<This should be fine. I would continue with this practice>
I will find someplace to have the water tested - with and without softener, with and without distilled water, before I try this again. I tried to read the literature you referenced (fishbase.org <http://fishbas.org/>), but had difficulty accessing it - when I would search for Betta or beta, I got something entirely different, a salt water reef fish.
<Ah yes; use the scientific name: Betta splendens>
I knew that raising the temperature might help, but I have an inexpensive heater which keeps the temperature 78 degree range (little variance according to my thermometer) without any possible adjustment. I live in a rural area with no pet store available which has any better heater.
<Ah; do acquaint yourself with the online businesses in the field. A fave is Dr.s Foster and Smith's: Liveaquaria.com>
I have to rely on mail order for much of my supplies. For that reason, it may take me a while to find a place to test the water, but I will try the local aquarium store which wanted to test it. (They are very small and only open limited hours 3 days a week.) I apologize for the string of slightly hysterical emails yesterday.
<No worries>
We’d had Elwood only 11 weeks, but I’d become attached to him. Until Monday, he’d always had a great appetite, been very active, been very interactive with us begging for food, very energetic in exploring every nook of his aquarium, etc.
<Again; as I've stated, this fish could have had real troubles before; genetic or developmental>
The thought that I killed him by my lack of care for him by something like not thinking of the water softener or not trying to get more readings on the water is very painful.
<Might be it had nothing to do with your efforts>
Thank you again for all of your help and advise - I will try to follow up on it. Elaine
<Be of good life Elaine. Bob Fenner>

Re: Splitting Betta       11/9/16
Dear Ian,
<Mmm; where is that lad?>
Thanks for you reply. Holmes lives in a two gallon bowl in a warm room--between 73 and 76 degrees.
<Bettas... need more stable, warmer, filtered circumstances. Please read
here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/bettasysart.htm
IF it's your intention that your Betta live a good quality, long life, you'll have to invest>
I completely change the water every week, but I let water sit out for a day or two in an extra tank before moving him. I have ten fish and three extra bowls for them, and a snail was recently introduced into one of them.
All the other fish are fine.
Holmes is rather a funny character! When I tried to introduce logs and plants to his tank, he threw himself upon his back and floated to the bottom--a very dramatic death scene!
<Interesting.>
After lying there for a minute or so, and after the removal of the offending item, he got up and swam around, but he clearly doesn't like things in his bowl. (You will think I am kidding, but I am entirely in earnest. He has reacted this way more than once. Also, he is by far the smartest of all my Bettas.) There is no substrate either.
It is almost four months since Holmes's horrible experience. He is still doing well! He has a very small white spot that still looks like something protruding, but he eats and swims and flares like his old self. I no longer think that the little things were worms, but I have no idea what happened to him in June.
<Time going by will prove whether this spot goes... or the fish>
All best,
Caroline
<And you; Bob Fenner>

Betta with Dropsy      9/5/16
Hi,
I wonder if you have any suggestions. My Betta tank has just got over having white spot. I have 10 female Bettas and two Oto catfish in a 90 litre tank. Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20 and the PH lately has been higher than usual at 8. I went away for a couple of days. My son has been feeding the fish. I have got back and noticed Shine, one of my girls is massive. Very swollen belly and all her scales are sticking out. I had a quick look on the internet and it seemed to confirm my suspicion of dropsy.
<Maybe; or egg-laden perhaps>

I haven't had a fish with dropsy before. I have moved her into a little tank on her own and added ESHa 2000 as it says to use for dropsy.
Everything I have read says that it is not usually treatable. Do you have any suggestions as to anything that might improve her chances?
Thank you.
Sammie
<I do. I'd feed foods that have laxative effect, like Daphnia, Artemia (frozen/defrosted is fine); and administer Epsom Salt per your reading here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/dropsyfaqs.htm
and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/SaltUseFWArtNeale.htm
Bob Fenner>
Re: Betta with Dropsy       9/5/16

Thank you so much for your advice. The help you all give is invaluable.
<Ahh>
She looks more bloated than egg laden and absolutely huge. Going to get some Epsom Salt from the shops now before they close and hopefully it will make my Shine better. Sammie
<Cheers, BobF>
Re: Betta with Dropsy    9/6/16

Hi again,
I have been treating my Betta with ESHa 2000 and Epsom Salts in a little tank on her own because of the suspected dropsy. She is still as bloated but swimming about as best she can. Tonight I noticed another female Betta was really bloated, was swimming upside down and died.
<Yikes>
A couple of hours earlier she was swimming round the tank looking normal.
Ph is 8.0, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0 and Nitrate 10. Is there something in particular that might be causing this.
<Did I refer you to our section on Dropsy, Dropsical conditions archived on WWM? Yes; I see this below... please re-read the links. These issues are principally "caused" (resultant from) environmental and nutritional issues... some insults resulting in fluid leaving cells, raising the pressure in intercellular space forcing the body to bloat, scales stick out. CAN be traced to various microbial infections, high populations, but this is a secondary effect... again the env. and nutr. as primary>
I have 8 other Bettas in the tank and would hate for them to get sick too.
I feed them a combination of foods. Mainly pellets 3 each and once a week blood worms
<Mmm; I'd be careful with these last... Sewer Worm, Chironomid (fly) larvae are known to be involved in such troubles. IF you feed, ONLY use a proven, highly processed brand (e.g. Hikari), and sparingly at that>
or Artemia. None of them will touch daphnia. Once a week I put a couple of cooked, shelled peas in the tank. I have had them in this tank together for about four months (90 litres). I do a 50% water change once a week and use Fluval water conditioner and Fluval biological enhancer in my tank. It also has lots of plants. I occasionally put almond leaves in their tank as well.
Am I doing something wrong that has suddenly made the fish sick?
<Nothing that "jumps out" as being problematical; no>
My fish got visibly sick and died so fast that I couldn't help her.
Thanks Sammie
<Frightening... IF you can easily add it to your filter flow path, I'd add a modicum of activated carbon to your filter flow path... in the hope of removing toxin/s, reducing overall B.O.D., microbe levels.... Bob Fenner>
Re: Betta with Dropsy   8/7/16

Thank you,
I did read the links and I am following the recommendations. I think it frightened me how quickly my fish got sick and died.
<Me too.>
I am keeping a close eye on my girls and will add some carbon to the filter.
<Good>
My Father in law uses water straight from the tap, only uses a sponge in his filter, cleans and water changes once to twice a month, never uses biological enhancers, uses cheap flake food and gets his plants straight from the ponds. He has hardly ever lost a fish. I tested his water and the ammonia, nitrate and nitrite were all high. I do partial water changes weekly, use water conditioners etc and my fish get sick. It doesn't make sense to me. I thought fish keeping was supposed to be relaxing. I do love them so I will have to put up with the stress.
Thanks again.
<Do please keep us informed. Bob Fenner>

Re: Betta with Dropsy... Now; worse, new fish w/ infection       9/10/16
Hello,
I am so sorry to have to message again but I really need some advice.
Firstly Shine, my Betta fish with dropsy is still with us but sadly no better.
<Mmm; looks a bit better to me>
The rest of the fish from her tank appear well and we have had no problems.
I did something very stupid and I am absolutely gutted about what has happened. I have another 90 litre female Betta tank. It had 9 fish in the tank. The Ph is 7.4, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0 and Nitrate between 30 and 40. My local fish shop had some female crowntails. I noticed one of them had a white patch on it's nose area. I asked what it was and they told me it was a scrape or bite.
<Mmm; or bacterial>
I went against my instincts and purchased six. I usually quarantine fish but have never had any problems with this fish store previously. Also if I am honest I had no spare tanks as they all had fish in. I have three community tanks, one that Shine is in and six 15 to twenty litre tanks that I house my male Bettas in. I know it is no excuse and irresponsible but I
put them straight in with my girls. I know I am 100% to blame. They all looked well. I got up the next morning (today) and they all seemed fine. At lunchtime I noticed one of the new fishes on it's side with it's fins melted away. I noticed another dying, had gone from bright red to white and had no fins left. In an hour 5 had died of various symptoms from bloated stomach, melted fins and greyish patches on their bodies. My original fish were dying too. I added ESHa 2000 to the tank. Every Betta looks sick. They are nearly all gone. Strangely the Otos in the tank appear okay. I don't think I can save any. I have enclosed a photo of two fish that are barely still alive. Yesterday they were vibrant with solid colour. These two appear to have the same markings on their body that the fish in the shop had.
My husband went back to the shop and told them what was happening. They say they have had no dead fish. I am highly doubtful as they only had 3 left and yesterday afternoon there was many. He asked what he should do with the tank to clear it of whatever is killing the fish. He was told to do nothing as once the last fish dies the virus or parasite will be dead. Is that right?
<Right? Not what I'd do; no>
I would have thought that it would still have been in the gravel or water.
I trust your opinion more. Whatever is killing them is so aggressive and acts fast. I tried to research what it might be but I cannot find any information that covers how they are dying. It seems to be eating away at them. Months ago I had a Platy with fin rot and it was nothing like this.
Thank you for taking the time to read this
Sammie
<... For accurate diagnosis would need to at least sample/scrape the live fish outside, possibly some dead ones in organs of the body internally ... maybe then culture... look at under a microscope. But if these were mine... I'd treat for infectious disease. Please read through here Re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/BetDisInfeF.htm
and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_2/mycobactera.htm
Bob Fenner>

Columnaris?

Betta with large wound and fin rot       8/19/16
Please could you help me.
My Betta looks awful. I am really afraid.
I have had him for 5 months, and it seems like he has had Finrot that long.
<Mmm>

He developed this lump on his right side. Under the lump it looks like an open wound. Now there is a big hole in his fin under that.
<I see this in your next -sent pix>
He is in a 10 gallon tank.
It has a filter and a heater.
The heater registers 76-78 degrees on glass thermometer and 82-84 degrees on the tape.
Daily AP Master Test Kit done daily -Normal
Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 0,
<Zero NO3? Lo dudo. I'd have your water tested w/ another kit
>
PH high- 7.8-7.4
Water conditioner- Prime
I do 25% water changes daily with partial gravel clean.
<I'd do these changes just weekly. Daily is too much... change, disruption>

Eats well - Hikari Betta Bio-Gold 4-5 tiny pellets 2x day
Snack -Betta Dial-A-Treat 1-2 pieces of Mysis or Daphnia, or Blood Worms every other day
Swims-well
Very personable
Breathing-good Gills good- I think
No PopEye, No swim bladder, no pineconing
I have tried Aquarium salt, Indian almond leaf, Metafix, <Melafix> and KanaPlex. These are what I am using currently, all except the Metafix. I am so afraid of hurting his liver or kidneys with all this stuff.
<You are wise here>
He has a few live and silk plants, cave and Betta hammock leaves.
Please if you have any other suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it. I don't know if this is a parasite because it seems the antibiotic doesn't work, and he is looking sicker. All the Pet store staff act like "well he is only a fish." But he is a living.
Thank you so very much.
Christine.
<Your description covers most all the probable issues that folks have w/ environmental, nutritional causes of Betta trouble. Am inclined to (unfortunately) suggest that this particular specimen may have a weak genetic constitution. Betta splendens, like many other popular freshwater tropical fishes, aren't "what they used to be" from so much inbreeding. I'd try adding some good quality carbon to your filter; adding a bit more/changing some out every month or so. There may be "some chemical" issue here... that isn't mal-affecting the plants... and am hoping the carbon may remove it. I do hope this helps. Bob Fenner>

Betta with lump, hole, and fin rot       8/19/16
I just sent you an email asking if you could please help me. I forgot to include a picture.
Thank you so very much,
Christine,
<I'd like to add two further suggestions: I WOULD dose this fish's water w/ an iodide-ate supplement
like this one: http://www.seachem.com/reef-iodide.php
in case this is a I2 deficiency issue... and lace foods (soak them ahead of offering) in a HUFA, vitamin supplement like this one: http://www.seachem.com/vitality.php
Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Betta with lump, hole, and fin rot; invoking deities        8/20/16
Dear Bob,
Thank you so very much for answering me so quickly.
I truly appreciate you and your advice.
I will do what you say.
Thank you.. And may the Lord God Almighty bless you, grant you and your loved one's needs, and give you peace of mind and heart. I ask this in Jesus Christ's Name. Amen.
Have a great weekend.
Yours truly
Christine
<Will accept kindly your good wishes. Not a fan of invisible friends however. Cheers, BobF>

New Print and eBook on Amazon

Betta Success

Doing what it takes to keep Bettas healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Become a Sponsor Features:
Daily FAQs FW Daily FAQs SW Pix of the Day FW Pix of the Day New On WWM
Helpful Links Hobbyist Forum Calendars Admin Index Cover Images
Featured Sponsors: