FAQs about Burrfishes, Porcupinefishes Social Disease
FAQs on Burrfish Disease:
Burrfish Disease 1, Burrfish Disease 2, Burrfish Disease 3, Burrfish Disease 4,
Burrfish Disease 5, Burrfish
Disease ,
FAQs on
Burrfish Disease Disease by Category:
Diagnosis,
Environment,
Nutrition,
Trauma,
Pathogenic,
Treatments
Related Articles: Burrfishes/Porcupinefishes, Puffers in General, Puffer Care and
Information, A Saltwater Puffer Primer:
Big Pufferfish! by Mike Maddox, Pufferfish Dentistry By Kelly Jedlicki and Anthony Calfo,
True Puffers, Freshwater Puffers,
Tobies/Sharpnose Puffers,
Boxfishes
Related FAQs: Diodontids 1, Diodontids 2, Diodontids 3, Burrfish Identification, Burrfish Behavior, Burrfish Compatibility, Burrfish Selection, Burrfish Systems, Burrfish Feeding, Burrfish Reproduction, Puffers in General, Puffer Selection, Puffer Behavior, Puffer Systems, Puffer Feeding, Puffer Disease, Puffer Dentistry, Puffer
Reproduction, True Puffers,
Freshwater to
Brackish Puffers, Tobies/Sharpnose
Puffers, Boxfishes,
|
Puffers should NOT be kept w/ large Angels, big Wrasses,
Lionfish and relatives, Moray eels... overzealous cleaner fishes; large
crabs, lobsters, hermits
|
Porcupine Puffer suddenly has injured eye - attacked by Annularis
Angelfish 3/16/16
Hello there. I need some help with treating an eye injury in my porcupine
puffer. He was totally healthy until yesterday. When I got home from work
I noticed him sitting in a little hiding spot in the rocks rather than greeting
me like normal. I also noticed my Annularis angelfish being dominant to him
(swimming into him and briefly nipping at his face - my puffer backed away). I
haven't seen this before. I'm not sure if the Angelfish did this damage to my
puffer or if it was monopolizing on the situation. Regardless, I put a 55L
plastic bin with holes drilled in it in my tank (180 gallon) to isolate the
pufferfish.
<Good move>
Puffer's eyes are cloudy white and have what look like injuries on them.
<How long have you had this puffer? Might be parasitic involvement here...
Trematodes, possibly Crypt>
Sorry I don't have a picture. The whiteness is more on the bottom half of the
eyes. The skin directly below the eye is also slightly damaged (white). It looks
like the other fish picked at him (from the bottom
direction) over and over and injured his eyes/skin below the eye.
He was in isolation overnight. When I checked on him this morning he was pretty
similar except the bottom of the eyes seems to be "sagging" slightly. He can't
see well and bumps off the walls of the container, and
since his eyes stick out that's the part that keeps bumping things. I'm not sure
how to keep his eyes from contacting the walls.
<Me neither>
I'm concerned about a secondary bacterial infection developing. Is there an
antibiotic I can give him orally (he's eating very well) so I don't have to
isolate him in a quarantine tank?
<None that are effective unless the fish is eating; can be introduced via foods>
Or, I do you recommend I quarantine him and treat the water with antibiotics or
copper?
<? For what? I would not simply expose this animal, system w/o a purpose>
Please advise for the best course of action to help him heal and recover.
<The usual: Reading:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BurrfishDisF5.htm
see the linked files above? Disease by Category? Social, Trauma.... read>
Very concerned fish owner.
Valarie
<And the Angel and Puffer will have to housed separately. Bob
Fenner>
P.S. Water quality:
180 gallon
76 degrees F
Salinity 1.0225
PH - 8.1
Carbonate Hardness: 15dkh
Phosphate = 0.25
Ammonia and Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 0.3 (I did a 10% water change the night before his eye got bad -
trying to bring this down).
Re: Porcupine Puffer suddenly has injured eye - attacked by Annularis Angelfish
3/17/16
HI Bob. Thank you for the prompt reply. I've done a lot of reading. Your website
is a wealth of information!
<Ah yes; many hours have gone into WWM>
I've had the puffer for two weeks. The fish store I bought him from had him for
a month prior and he seemed healthy (I had my eye on him for a while and they
held him for me for a few weeks), so I'm skeptical that it's
a parasite, especially with how quickly this happened (in a 8 hour period).
<Well; I wouldn't discount the possibility entirely. Some do show up very
quickly (clinically)>
For now I'll keep him in my main tank, but in the isolation bin and continue
with daily 10% water changes to get the nitrates down. I've also kept the lights
off so the tank is not so bright.
<Good>
He is still eating great.
<A VERY good indication of health; recovery>
Do you have a recommended antibiotic I can feed him while he's still in my main
tank to prevent a secondary bacterial infection, or will even edible antibiotics
wipe out my biofilter?
<Some anti... microbials, -biotics more than others. I'd rather you soak, lace
the foods with vitamins, HUFAs, probiotics... there are such prep.s available
commercially... Selcon, Micro-Vit....>
I've been feeding him Hikari brand frozen clams on a half shell. Also bought
some raw shrimp from the grocery store (mainly to feed my zebra moray eel) and
sometimes the puffer grabs pieces of that.
<Mmm; Oh, see this below.... Please read on WWM re Thiaminase poisoning>
Are these okay to continue feeding on a regular basis, or do you recommend
adding something else to their (both puffer and eel) diet to make sure they're
getting enough Thiamine vitamin and not too much thiaminase?
<Oh! Yes... fish, fillet or whole small>
Crab leg pieces?
<Invite me over!>
Selcon soak?
<Yes!>
The angel is going back to the fish store because this tank was set up
specifically for my puffer. :-(
<Ahh; this is the better choice>
Thanks again for your time.
<Glad to share. Bob Fenner>
Porcupine Puffer disease or wound?
1/10/15
Hello WWM Crew,
I read all of the posts on puffers and disease and didn't see pictures
that looked like this.
I have a 125 gallon tank, spg 1.023, ammonia, nitrates and nitrites are
0,
<How is NO3 rendered thus?>
pH is 8.4, temp 79 degrees Fahrenheit My porcupine
puffer shares his tank with a bi color angel, a Siganus
Doliatus
<May have poked...>
rabbit fish and a rather Large Dardanus
<... pinched>
crab in a 6 inch Triton shell.
Tonight when I got home I noticed a mark on my Porcupine puffer
Kirby.
<All at once I take it>
It is in front of his gill on his left side. It was
Not there yesterday,
<Ah yes; an injury>
it is whitish/pink area. It is about an 1/2 inch
wide by a little under an inch long. I have
attached a picture.
<A nice one>
It doesn't look like ich or velvet or other
diseases I have seen first hand. I am wondering it it looks
fungal or bacterial in nature to you?
<Maybe secondary>
Or if it looks like a wound perhaps inflicted by a
rather large crab living in a triton shell. Any thoughts?
<Same as yours>
I can quarantine Kirby the puffer and medicate him if need be.
<I wouldn't>
I would rather not medicate him if it is a wound
that will heal on its own.
<Yep>
Kirby is 6 years old. He doesn't seem lethargic at
all or breathing fast either. He is eating well.
Are there bacteria's or fungus that move this
quickly in less then 24 hours?
<Not w/o an opening>
Thanks for your help this is an amazing site.
Regards, Kellylynn
<There we have it; a mix of dangerous characters; the puffer cut,
slashed open by one of them...
With good conditions, nutrition will heal in time (weeks). Bob Fenner> |
 |
Re: Porcupine Puffer disease or wound?
1/12/15
Hello Bob
"<how is NO3 rendered thus?>"
I have a refugium stuffed full of plants, a nitrate filter from Aquaripure
and religious water changes because puffers are really messy.
Maybe how I should have phrased it is that the nitrates are undetectable
with 2 different test kits. So I think it is a combination of all three
things.
There must be a titch of NO3 as the plants are doing fine but I think the
plants take up what is left by the puffers messy eating habits. The NO3 with
2 different tests it is not detectable.
<Good>
I definitely think the puffer was wounded by Roger Rabbit fish or the
Dardanus crab. I am kind of leaning toward the crab. Kirby the puffer seems
to be giving the crab a wider leeway and to some degree avoiding the area
where the crab is. I do not remember him doing that before.
<Ahh>
Thanks again for this site. It is a treasure trove of knowledge.
Kellylynn
<Thank you for adding to it. BobF> Update on Kirby the
Puffer and the Dardanus Crab 2/7/15
Hello WWM crew,
Kirby is now healing from his injury from a few weeks ago. It was the crab I am
99% sure who wounded Kirby.
<Me too>
There is a small area that is lighter in color and some of his spots are farther
apart then they were before. He Has given the crab a wider berth then he did
before. That is what has led me to believe it was the crab and not Roger Rabbit
(Siganus doliatus). The behavior is different toward the crab.
<Perhaps next molt/move, it will be the Puffer's chance...>
You will be happy to know that I have purchased a 200 gallon tank for
them.
<Ah good>
I am just waiting for the stand to arrive. It will have space for a 100+ gallon
refugium underneath. Which brings me to my next question......about stocking the
bigger tank. Kirby is 7 inches long, Roger is 8 inches long. The crab will be
spending more time in the refugium I think.....to keep everyone safe.
<Tres bien>
Can I switch him from the main tank to the refugium here and there?
<Yes>
Since it is the same system? He is a good clean up crew for the puffers messy
way of eating. Other occupants will be my bicolor angel and a small 4 inch
aquacultured purple Tang.
<?! Have never seen an aquacultured Zebrasoma sp. Where are you buying/getting
this from?>
I know the tang will get lots bigger.
<Mmm; not as large as some congeners... likely only five-six inches overall here
over years time>
The tang and bicolor get along swimmingly (pun intended) now and are never very
far from each other. Will it stay that way as the tang gets bigger or is he more
likely to bully the Bicolor?
<Can't say; both animals being individualistic... but I give good odds that
they'll get along well enough>
I also have a purple indigo Pseudochromis in that tank should I move him to a
smaller tank even though he seems to be doing just fine with the big fish?
<If there's sufficient cover I'd leave in; are smart, quick>
I was thinking of adding a pink tailed or blue throat trigger to the mix after
the new tank is up and running for a while.....am I pushing my luck with the
thought of a trigger and puffer together or the trigger and my rather large
Rabbitfish?
<A peaceful Balistid species might go>
Could I put a different species of rabbit fish in a system this size?
<I would not>
I know you shouldn't put con-specifics together but could it work with this size
tank?
<Not a good gamble>
What would you suggest for other fish to add with this pugnacious bunch of fish?
<That you read; decide for yourself. You can/could just peruse the
"Compatibility FAQs" on WWM for all the species you have, desire>
That I adore I might add ☺.
Are there wrasse that might work like the dragon wrasse or Thalassoma species?
<Yes; plus Coris and a few others>
Could a hawk fish work with this bunch or would my puffer eat a Hawkfish....
<A larger species could fit>
he has left the pseudo alone... He has left the cleaner shrimp alone which has
amazed me. I want to make the right choice of fish to add to the larger system
once I get up and running.
Thanks again for this amazing site. I have spent dozens of hours reading on it.
P.S. I often shop at my Asian grocery store to find new and interesting things
for Kirby the puffer to eat. They often have an array of marine shellfish you
wouldn't find at your regular grocery store and the often have very high quality
squid compared to my local grocery store.
<Neat. Thanks for sharing. Bob Fenner> |
Porcupine puffer is ...poisoned? Another Siganid incident,
incomp. 3/16/14
I have a porcupine puffer and a foxface Rabbitfish in a 110 gallon.
<Mmm>
They both were doing great until last night. I heard a commotion of some
sort in the corner of the tank.
By the time I got over there, whatever was going on was over, but my
porcupine was puffed and sitting on the bottom of the tank. He is much
paler than normal and now lays on his side on the bottom.
Did the Rabbitfish poison him? How can I fix it?
<Maybe... I'd separate these two of course... but really, just time
going by, good care will see if the Diodontid recovers or no. Bob
Fenner>
Please and thank you!
Porcupine Puffer 1/12/13
Hi Bob and Crew, I have a Porcupine Puffer and for about nine months He
basically stays in his cave all day. He never swims unless he see his
cup of food or when I am doing a water change. He tries to help. I
bought him really small and he swim more when he was little. He swims
all night and in the morning when lights or off he is normal, happy, and
swimming. I have vho lighting and I don't think it is too bright for
him. Nobody is picking on him. He is in a 180 eats Mysis, and krill
everyday. Is he ok?
<Likely so; such lethargy, night time activity isn't uncommon>
All parameters are good. Nitrate is 10. I don't think that enough to
stress him do you?
<Are there other fishes present that might be bullying the puffer by
day?>
Thank you!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Porcupine Puffer, hlth., comp. 1/10/13
What happened to my friend "Hap"? I am so sad! He lives in my son's tank.
<Mmm, something/one's been "after" it; of there's been a precipitous drop in
water quality...>
Today his eyes started looking hazy. Tonight he was swimming along and all
of a sudden seemed to struggle then floated to the top if the tank with this
"bubble" attached! It looks like there is a hole in his side!
<Yes; physical trauma>
He is normally in an 80 gallon tank with a lion fish, a grouper, a star
fish, live rock and small corals. I don't think he is going to make it
through the night.
Jenni Edwards
<Number one candidate is the grouper... next, a poke from the Lion...
perhaps just a bad run-in w/ the corals... this system needs to be much
larger... You need to move the puffer now to convalesce. Bob Fenner>
|
 |
Re: Porcupine Puffer
1/10/13
Thanks Bob. We moved him last night, but he didn't make it. I grew up "going
fishing" with my Daddy in the creeks and lakes for dinner. Never thought I
would get so attached to a darn fish!
<Ahh!>
But here I am feeling like I lost a good friend. Your site is amazing. I
will learn from it and maybe get my own tank just for a puffer. ~ Jen
<Real good. BobF> |
Yellow Spined Porcupine Puffer 2/3/12
Hey crew, here's a link to a picture taken today of my
porcupine puffer. I've had him for about 15 months and
he's 6+ inches from tip to tip. I started noticing his fins
and spines going yellow about 6 months ago. It's only
steadily gotten worse(?)
<Worse in what way? The colour? Not a problem>
since then. There have been no changes in behavior or
appetite.
I've tried every search for yellow fins/spines and jaundice
in puffers, but to no avail. His diet consists primarily of Nori
(a suspect in all of this), but with squid, shrimp, or oyster
soaked in garlic extract and Selcon at least once a week.
If it's relevant, he's in a 135 mixed reef tank with a
pair of Clowns, a trio of Yellow Tail Damsels, and a Niger
Trigger.
<Tough neighborhood>
What are your thoughts? I really like the color, but don't
like it being unique.
http://i.imgur.com/Wzsw6.jpg
<Is fine... genetic and nutritionally related. I'd switch
the last a bit.
Read here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/burrfishfdgfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
|
Beauteous
|
Burrfish, bitten? 5/31/11
Hey guys! First time asking a question about the millionth time on your
site! I have a emergency... Well I think.. First tank details 125
gallon fish only tank 175 P live rock, HOB CPR refugium, AquaC remora
protein skimmer, Aquatic life 4 lamp T5s. Livestock 6 inch Porcupine
Puffer I have had for about a year, 2 foot gold spot moray eel in take
3 years, and 2 small damsels in tank 3 years. parameters all normal.
tank has been going for about 4 years. I noticed today my puffer was
resting in middle of day very unusual. I went to take closer inspection
I noticed what looked like to be tears in his skin behind his left fin.
3 or 4 small maybe half inch or smaller tears. Also there seams to be
around 10 of his spines that have protruded threw skin. This morning
when I awoke I looked for puffer but I could not see him. I looked in
rock work, he had gotten deep inside small crevice in rocks. I have
never seen him down in the rock work like this. I
am thinking he may have torn skin while in rock work? Any help would be
greatly appreciated I really love this little guy and don't want
anything to happen to him. I can send pictures if needed.
Thanks!
Joey
<Do please send along the pix... I suspect the Moray... Bob
Fenner>
Porcupine puffer with a "bruise"
5-30-3009
Hi all,
<Gareth>
I have a Porcupine Puffer in a 600 litre tank with a variety of
other fish (some clowns, triggers, tangs, damsels &
blennies). I was not here on the day it was introduced, but
noticed a cloudiness on its top rear fin (dorsal?), see attached
image.
<I do see this... Likely one of the triggers...>
It is feeding well on some shrimp, sand eels & cockles, but
seems nervous & it stays beneath a pile of rock unless it
thinks it may get fed. I have noticed the cleaner Wrasse having a
go at the same area,
<Not good to keep Labroides in small systems... pester other
fish/hosts too much>
but I don't know if it is helping with some sort of
parasite
<Nope>
or has taken to bullying the Puffer.
<Could be>
The fin which had the cloudiness now has what looks like a bruise
on it which appears to be spreading to the skin on the left side,
again, I'm not sure whether it is caused by the Wrasse, an
infection or a parasite.
<Mmm, neither>
Nitrite, Ammonia & pH are all spot on, and all the other fish
are perfectly healthy. None have any signs of ick & the only
aggression in the tanks is the Wrasse picking at the fin of the
puffer.
Any help or advise would be gratefully received.
Regards,
Gareth Harper
<Time to remove the Labroides. Bob Fenner>
|
 |
Porc Puffer ? Hlth., reading 05/27/09
I have a very curious puffer that I was housing in my 90 gallon until
he decided to snack on my fish (I knew the risk I was taking). Since I
moved him to my 125 with two California Stingrays.
<Coldwater animals... otherwise incompatible>
To give everyone acclimation time etc, I turned off the lights and
covered the tank for a period of 24 hrs -its in a very bright sunny
part of the house, tons of windows. I went to check on everyone an hour
ago and my poor puffer was stuck to the intake for my sump. I know
better, but the stingrays like to play there so I didn't even think
about it when I moved P. Daddy (puff daddy) over. Now his bottom lip is
red, swollen and he is all puffed up and swimming upside down. He
hasn't released the water/air and I basically want to know if I
have the chance to try and heal him back to health or if I should put
him out of his misery.
<Are tough animals... there is reason to hope>
I've had this guy for a year and was going to set him up with a
FOWLER dedicated to him. I want to do the best for P. Daddy and I
don't care for the cost etc. I have a separate tank setting up as
we speak that I am prepared to do water changes daily, Melafix
<Worthless>
etc so that he may recover... but if he's swimming upside down
still puffed up with air?
<Need to "un-puff"... See WWM re>
What can I do? What's the right thing to do?
Thanks for all of your help!
Tiffany B.
<Keep reading Tiff. Bob Fenner>
Porcupine Pufferfish dis-emboweled 3-5-09 Help!
<I'll do my best! Mike here tonight> I have a 220-gallon
saltwater aquarium. All of the fish have been doing great for a long
time. <Yay, a big tank!> "Porky", my large Porcupine
Puffer, has an injury caused by another fish last night. I looked into
the tank and saw my large Lunar Wrasse pulling and tugging on pink
"guts" or something that he was pulling out of Porky's
anal opening. He had about 3" of it pulled out and was tugging and
trying to rip at it and eat it. I now have Porky in a hospital tank
with Maracyn to try and prevent infection. <Good. You may want to
very broad spectrum here, with Maracyn 1&2, and maybe Methylene
blue...it won't hurt> The guts (intestines or whatever it is) is
still hanging out of him in a large pink ball. <Possibly prolapsed
colon/intestines...is there a hole torn through the abdominal wall, or
it is hanging out of the rectum?> It also has some white stringy
parts kind of hanging off of it, and some areas are more pink or red,
and looks like it hurts. <Likely damaged tissue and blood
vessels> Porky is still eating like his normal ravaged self, but
I'm not sure if he'll be able to poop. <I would stop feeding
for the time being> And I can't put him back in the big tank,
because ALL of the fish started to nip at it before I got him out of
there. I tried to push the guts back in, but I was afraid of making it
worse so I stopped after it didn't go in easily. What should I do?
<I haven't had any experience with this before, so I'm
Cc'ing Bob, who will hopefully CC Kathy, the only person I know of
whom has some 'surgical' experience with fish. However, keep
porky in the QT tank, treat with prophylactic antibiotics, cease
feeding, and wait> <<I would not operate on this fish... but
wait, be patient. Such prolapses are not uncommon... Use the WWM search
tool and look up this term with the word puffer... and read the cached
views... RMF>> Thanks, Jenny <Good luck! M. Maddox>
Re: Porcupine Pufferfish dis-emboweled (follow-up) 3-9-09 Hi
again, <Evening> I am still only treating Porky with Maracyn 1. I
can't find saltwater Maracyn 2 anywhere. When I DO find it, how
much should I be using since I'll be using both Maracyn 1 & 2?
1/2 of each normal dose, Or regular doses of both? <Nope, standard
dose of each, because Maracyn treats gram positive infections and
Maracyn Two treats gram negative. If you can't find Maracyn Two at
any LFS, then treat with a broad spectrum and/or gram negative
antibiotic> I did get some Methylene Blue. Do you want me to drop
the Methylene Blue right onto the intestines that are sticking out? Or
should I treat the water (20 gal. hospital tank)? <Treat the
tank> And how much should I use? <Follow the instructions on the
label - I'm not sure what brand or concentration you have, so there
is no way for me to give you accurate dosing instructions> Thanks.
<Anytime> Jenny <Good luck, and I hope your puffer recovers -
M. Maddox>
Re: Porcupine Pufferfish dis-emboweled 3-25-09
Hi,
<Afternoon>
Just thought I'd update you with "Porky's" condition.
He's alive and well and back in his home tank with his tank mates.
The Maracyn 1 worked great.
<Awesome!>
I never did find any Maracyn 2 so I didn't use it. And I didn't
have the directions for the Methylene Blue, so I didn't use that
either.
<Next time grab Kordon's, which is a teaspoon per ten gallons I
believe>
I got lucky and the Maracyn 1 did the trick. His bowels retreated back
inside him after about a week, and he's eating and pooping just
fine. :-)
<That's so good to hear, I'm glad he recovered!>
Thanks!
<Sure thing, glad I could help>
Jenny
<M. Maddox>
Porcupine Puffer Skin Problems 12/3/08
Good evening, <Morrow for me here, now. Good day to
you in any case/time frame> I have used your site numerous times to
troubleshoot many different fish/aquarium topics, but I cannot find the
answer to my most recent question and find it worthy of a post.
<Good> My Porcupine Puffer that I have had in a 100 gallon live
rock aquarium for 6 months has started to show signs of skin problems
and I can't find the issue posted or even mentioned on any forum.
It appears that the fish is molting/shedding from between the eyes to
the dorsal fin. <Mmm, Diodontids (and Tetraodontids...) do
"shed" their skin quite a bit...> The typical olive/brown
coloring has given way to what appears to be a new, whiter layer of
skin/scale still exhibiting the camouflage characteristics, just in a
lighter shade. Now I've searched and know that puffers do not have
scales and from what I can tell therefore do not shed/molt.
<Actually...> I'm wondering if this is a treatable disease or
in general any advice you can provide for this situation. Tank specs:
100 gallon overflow with a 25 gallon sump, Red Sea protein skimmer and
carbon filtration. Tank Mates: Yellow Tang Maroon Gold Stripe Clown
Candy Hogfish Picasso Trigger 75 lbs live rock Thank you for your
assistance <Mmm... well, this condition can be due to, here's
that word again, just "stress"... it may be the Trigger,
Clown and even the Tang are working this fish woe... The second, and
possibly larger co-factor with these puffers is nutritional. Very often
they are lost to avitaminoses... and hence, the call to supplement
their foods, provide a myriad diet to hopefully avoid such dietary
lacks. IF you have other quarters to situate this specimen in, I would
move it... to counter/check the possibility of harassment... And I
would definitely mix the diet up here, try soaking all foods in a HUFA,
vitamin mix... like MicroVit, Selcon... Bob Fenner>
Re: Porcupine Puffer Skin Problems 12/3/08 Bob,
<Hello again Jay> Thank you very much for your prompt reply. I
will probably go with the isolation route to see if it is stress,
although the puffer is larger than all his tank mates it is also
slower. I am glad to hear that "shedding" is actually not as
rare as I had feared, there was just nothing I could find pertaining to
this when searching. <Interesting... am going to try the Google
search on WWM with the terms: "Puffer Skin Shedding": Please
see here:
http://www.google.com/custom?domains=www.WetWebMedia.com&q=Puffer+Skin+Shedd
ing&sa=Search&sitesearch=www.WetWebMedia.com&client=pub-4522959445250520&for
id=1&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&cof=GALT%3A%23008000%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%2333
6699%3BVLC%3A663399%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3A99C9FF%3BLBGC%3A336699%3BALC%3A000
0FF%3BLC%3A0000FF%3BT%3A000000%3BGFNT%3A0000FF%3BGIMP%3A0000FF%3BFORID%3A1%3
B&hl=en or try this yourself. Oh, and do look at the "cached
views"... in your searches... the search terms are highlighted...
much easier to find.> I currently feed, frozen shrimp, Mysis, and
krill in a rotation of days and work in a home made blend of clam,
scallop and squid that should all provide a pretty good variety.
<Mmm, actually... these are too high in fat, cholesterol for a
strict diet, and do lack essential vitamins et al.... I would mix in
some fish flesh here, even whole fish (e.g. Silversides), and provide
some/newer live rock for casual consumption on a continuous basis>
I'm guessing crab and snail are my next choices as far as diet, but
meanwhile I'll begin supplementing with a vitamin mix and may
attempt to add some to my "house blend" next time I'm
mixing. <Do look into the "frozen mixed seafood", often
offered as "frutti de mar" and such, in your frozen food
depts.... Very inexpensive compared to labeled foodstuffs for fishes...
and a good mix (shells on) for your puffer and other fishes> I very
much appreciate your response and the service that you provide. <I
am very glad to assist you and your efforts. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Puffer Problems and
Overstocking 3-4-08 I have been looking on your website for
two days and I got some information, but I was hoping if I tell
you the story you might have a more clear answer. I have a 125
gallon saltwater tank with about 120 pounds of live rock. I have
2 maroon clownfish 1 Sweetlips 1 lawn mower blenny 2 sharp nose
puffers 3 green spotted puffers 1 yellow tang 1 anemone 1 Foxface
1 dogface puffer and lasting 1 porcupine puffer. <First things
first'¦This tanks is incredibly overstocked!! Half of
this list would be more applicable. Second, you never ever want
to combine anemones with puffers due to their curiosity and
tendency to nip at things that spark their attention. One nip to
an anemone can be the end of a puffer. > I just moved the tank
last month and have had some trouble with the nitrate level
since, as of today my levels were, ammonia .25, nitrite 0, ph 7.8
and nitrate 80. Off the charts almost. <Due to
overstocking.> That being said, two days ago I introduced a
new porcupine puffer into my tank. <Was he quarantined
first?> It was smaller by about half. I noticed the new one
was chasing my OG around the tank and I said I would give it
overnight and if they were not getting along by then I would take
it back. <Combining multiple species of puffers will most
often lead to aggression. You have 4 different kinds here, so
there are always going to be problems unless you remove some.>
The next morning (yesterday) I found my OG puffer breathing very
heavy at the bottom of the tank, he was not responsive to my
touch or net. I removed him from the tank and put him in a bucket
with a pump to get him more oxygen. This seemed to work as he
perked up and started swimming and got his color back after about
three hours I put him back into the main tank. That is when I
noticed he was running into things, first he went to the top of
the water line and gulping air, then calmed down but still is
running into stuff, his eyes are moving around but he can't
see. I put him in an iso net as I don't have a hospital tank
right now. I am using Ich-attack and MelaFix right now and I have
done a 30 gallon water change tonight. <Ich isn't his
problem and medicating unnecessary will do more harm than good
seeing as puffers was very sensitive to medications. I cannot
stress enough about quarantining new fish before adding them into
your main tank. New fish, especially porcupines carry parasites
and other diseases that can harm or kill your other fish. You
need to see about getting him into a quarantine tank a.s.a.p. Do
50% water changes in your main tank every other day for at least
a week. I would see if a local LFS can take some of the fish out
of your tank. I know it will be hard to part with your friends
but if you do not lower the bio-load then they will surely
perish. Your high nitrates are due to too much feeding and not
enough water changes. The reason why the puffer responded
positively when you removed him from that main tank is because it
was like a breath of fresh air for him. Placing him back into the
bad water caused him to go bad to feeling bad again. I think once
you remedy this water and overstocking situation, things in your
tank will be much better.> Please let me know how to help him
he is my favorite fish. Thanks so much for your time.
<You're welcome and good luck. ---Yunachin>
Holly
Re: Puffer Problems and Overstocking Re: 3-9-08 I just wanted
to give you an update. I continued to have nitrate problems so I
took a water sample to my LFS. They checked it and everything was
normal so my test kit was wrong. (I bought a new one) I also
bought a nano tank where I placed my blind puffer. <Sounds
great so far.> I started to treat him with copper; I removed
him today and put him back into the main where I am treating them
with Rally Ich med and Rally bacterial med. <<These are
shams. RMF>> <He needs more than 4 days in a quarantine
tank, probably a couple of weeks. Also why are you treating
him/them with all of these multiple medications? Puffers are
especially sensitive to copper and it can do more damage than
help. Also medicating fish just because is never a good idea
either. Again puffers are highly sensitive to medications and
because these are 'scale-less' creatures most medications
are not recommended for use on them in the first place. I would
cease all of the medicating on the main tank immediately and do
some large water changes. Check out this link for treatment on QT
safely: http://wetwebmedia.com/quinmedfaqs.htm;> My levels are
all normal. Do you have any suggestions on how I can get him to
eat? I use garlic and he was not interested but I think it was
because of the copper. It's been a week since he's had
food. <He is definitely going to be affected from the copper.
I would read through the site starting here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diodontidfaqs.htm; and work your way
through the sections, feeding, disease, etc. There is lots of
information there to help answer your questions.> Gizmo is
still blind but I am hopeful. I don't want to have to put him
down as he's totally fine other than his blindness. Please
help. BTW all my fish in my tank are very small Gizmo is my
largest fish at about 5 inches, also all my puffers have been
getting along since day 1, I guess I was lucky. The new one I
introduced was a problem so I took him back the day after I got
him. <Here is the problem; there are too many fish in this
tank. It doesn't matter what size they are now, they are
going to grow, and most likely be stunted due to being forced to
live in a cramped environment. Also there is going to be
aggression, period. They may get along that you can see now but
that will not be the case in the future. Again there are several
species of puffer in this tank increasing the bio-load immensely.
You are going to have problems with the health of these fish in
the future and if kept in their current conditions, will
dramatically shorten their life spans. Please reconsider taking
some back to your LFS, or possibly getting another tank to split
these fish up. > Thank you. <Good Luck---Yunachin>
|
We eat the rude... Mis-stocked Burrfish, poor
English, no searching ahead of writing.... Grrrr 12/07/2007 hi, I
am writing because I have a dilemma with my porcupine puffer. it has
puffed up for no reason. it has puffed up a few times today. he shares
a 100 gallon tank with a tomato clown, tang, dogface puffer, coral
beauty and a pink tail trigger. right now he is puffed up floating at
the top of the tank. how do I deflate him? <... Please, fix your
English before writing us... and search what is posted on WWM already,
as instructed... You have a situation that has caused, will cause the
Diodontid to puff-up... the Trigger... read re the Compatibility...
Systems of the fishes you list. BobF>
Bloated Puffer 7/5/07 Hi Guys, <Hi Chris,
Pufferpunk here (I'm a gal).> I have been reading WWM for a few
years now and found a ton of advice on this "obsession" of
mine, but have never written, until now. <Aren't we all obsessed
after a few years?> I have a 180 gallon FOWLR that includes a Blue
Face Angel, Emperor Angel, Naso Tang, Hippo Tang, Porcupine Puffer and
a Niger Trigger. All of the fish are at least 5" or bigger (in the
case of the Angels). They have been happy in the tank for over 18
months and have not had any issues other than eat $1500 of my coral
(hence the FOWLR he he). <Too bad...> My fish are literally pigs
and will eat anything you put in the tank with them but the puffer will
only eat frozen krill. <Really bad diet for a puffer. I have seen
way too many incidents of puffers fed a main diet of krill, developing
lockjaw & eventually starving to death. See here for better diet
& methods of getting it to eat other foods:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/library/category/feeding/ > He
has done this for the 3 years that I have had him and I feed him 1 time
every other day or third day (basically feed him till he can't
eat). <Letting a puffer gorge itself isn't good for him either.
It results in a lot of non-digested food, causing a liver problems
(fatty liver) & a polluted environment. Feed until a slightly
rounded tummy.> He has been very normal till a day or two ago when I
noticed that he was trying to poop and the Hippo tang was trying to eat
the waste before it even came out (since it is pure krill).
<Exactly> But at the same time, it wasn't allowing Puff to
get out all his excess. He was picking so bad that when Puff tried to
squeeze some out...the tang was attacking his "hole" and
really aggravating the fish. <Poor puffer!> So I have been
watching him and his belly is getting larger and hasn't eaten in 2
days. I am afraid that he is scared to poop now and will hold in the
waste till it literally kills him. <It is possible but also it may
just be constipated.> Have you seen or heard this before? Is there
anything that I can do to help? <You could try to feed it vegetable
matter, like peas or algae wafers (puffers usually won't eat these
but some have). Otherwise, add Epsom salt, 1tbsp/5g. It would be best
to quarantine the fish. This is one of the many reasons, it is
suggested to keep a puffer in a tank by itself or with less aggressive
tankmates it can't catch. ~PP> Sincerely, Chris
Re: Bloated Puffer 7/6/07 Hi PP, <Hey Chris> Thanks for the
reply. I know that the krill only is not the best diet, so I actually
tried silversides (didn't eat them) <Most puffers are not fish
eaters.> and recently put in a cleaner crew of 100 Turbos and 100
blue-legged crabs. To my surprise he ate every single one! He would
pick up the shell and crush them. So his diet isn't just krill
really. <Yes puffers ware crustacean eaters & will generally eat
your cleaner crews. This doesn't change the fact that up till now,
his diet was mostly krill. He needs to get off that food
immediately.> Is it possible that he ate something that he can't
digest? Maybe ate one of the crab shells without crushing it first?
<I really doubt it, since that is it's natural diet in the
wild.> I read the link you sent and when he gets better I will
definitely vary his diet. <I'd still try to offer him some
veggies & see if he tries them.> Thanks for your help, <Of
course! ~PP> Chris
Porcupine Puffer stung by lionfish! 6/28/07 Hey
there, <Hi Jeff, MacL here with you tonight.> I have been using
your website to research and learn for many years now and it appears I
can't find any information on my current problem. I have a
porcupine puffer who would be about 5 inches, and he shares the tank
with a 6 inch Picasso trigger and a 5 inch Volitans lionfish and a
yellow head moray eel.. All tankmates seem to get a long most of the
time with the odd argument between the puffer and the trigger, (he has
never puffed up though as a result)<You know I have had my puffer
for five years and haven't seen him puff up once.> however about
a week ago during feeding time (which is awe inspiring to watch them
all eat) <Lord I bet, I can just imagine> the lionfish had not
yet engulfed his whole fish when the porcupine puffer decided it was
time to get some of that fish from his mouth. Now as he swam toward the
lion the puffer ever so lightly swam down onto the dorsal spines of the
lion and quickly dashed in the other direction. After about half an
hour the puffer had a small ring of blood in his left eye and it
eventually went away and now that one eye is cloudy. <Definitely
sounds like they had a close encounter. I've seen animals recover
from being stung but having personally been stung it hurts like you
wouldn't believe.> He seems still relatively happy and he still
has a fine appetite however he has become far more docile than he used
to be. Of course he comes out a little more at night but he used to
follow us around the room and now doesn't come out as often.
<I'm sure he's both wary of the lionfish and wary of his
tankmates since he does have an injury and possibly cannot see as well
as normal. While I do not advocate medicating unless its necessary I
would definitely keep an eye on his eye to make sure its clearing up on
its own quickly. I personally recommend adding something like Selcon
with vitamin C to assist in the cure but if the eye doesn't appear
to be healing on its own you might need to consider adding an
antibiotic. I wouldn't add it unless he appears to be having
problems healing because it does mess with the tanks bacteria on
occasion as well. > I guess that it is cloudy eye due to the stress
of being stung by the lion but just wanted to double check there is
nothing I should do, as we would be devastated to lose our cute little
ET impersonator!!! <To me its sounds more like he was stung in his
eye because you saw the ring of blood in his eye. Usually there is a
mark where they get stung. Keeping your tank healthy is the best thing
you can do for your fish as you very well know. If he doesn't show
signs of improvement in two or three days I would look into antibiotics
for assistance. Your tank sounds lovely and amusing. Good luck,
MacL> Any advice would be appreciated.. Regards Jeff
Puffer Pectoral - 02/09/2007 Hello WWM crew
member of the day, <Alana> I have a little Porcupine Puffer
in a 75 gallon tank with a Black & White Heniochus butterfly,
50 lbs of live rock, a mated pair of Percula Clownfish (that have
been laying eggs lately), and just added two days ago, 2 curly Q
anemone. <Yikes... may be trouble here... esp. with the
puffer> This morning when we woke up we noticed our puffer was
not really using one of his side fins and then with a closer look
we saw that it's fin was white and looked a little swollen and
that there is also a white spot on it's body right under
it's fin. We also noticed that our Heni also has a
white patch on it's pectoral fin also but not as big or swollen
looking. I have looked on your site and others for a
while and can't seem to find what it could be. My
question is, do you think the anemones could have stung them or is
it a virus? <Most likely stung... and could be consumed by this
puffer in time> I have included the best of almost 50 pics I
tried to take ( not a very good photographer hehe). Please any info
would help. This is the web site I get all my info
from. Greatly appreciated, Alana Mills <Mmm, well...
would be better to move the anemones elsewhere really... The
Burrfish will very likely self-heal in time. Bob Fenner> |

|
New member to the aquarium. Porc. puffer - 08/26/06 Hey
crew, Well my dad and brother came home with a porcupine
puffer Wednesday. I notice a small thing under his belly. I don't
have a picture so I'm going to have to describe it as best as I
can. The little bump thing on the puffer is pretty small but small
enough to take off with a tweezers if it is a parasite. The color is
pink and it's like a oval shape. The thing looks like a booger
(from your nose...), remember I'm doing my best to describe it lol.
It looks like it is attached to one of the quills on the puffer. Does
this information I have given you work for you? <Yes... But no
useful data re water quality, the make-up of this system, other
tankmates... This spot is likely an "owee"... not parasitic,
not "treatable" per se> I have look everywhere on your
site and other places but can't get an answer. Could this be a
parasite? Maybe a bruised quill? Also there are some white spots, like
sugar sized, on his tail but only a couple. Looks like Ich but he had
it since Wednesday and there isn't anymore white spots on him.
Maybe scars from Ich? Thanks for your help.,
Ben <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/burrfishdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: New member to the aquarium... more on Porc. puffer - 08/26/2006
Crew, My water quality is good. The puffer had this
"thing" on him at the store I'm guessing. My water
parameters are Nitrate-10 Nitrite-0
Ammonia-0 pH-8.2 Saltinity-1.025
The other fish are a Goldentail moray, V. lionfish, and a
Niger trigger. <In how large a system?... Regardless, not
compatible... see WWM re...> They all get along fine. The puffer
acts normal and shows no sign of stress. He swims up and down the glass
and looks at the rocks, ect. <No such word> I'm giving him
Vita-Chem every week. Thanks for you help. Ben <Keep
reading. BobF>
Porcupine Puffer fading fast ... killed through
mis-over-stocking, trtmt. 8/24/06 I am afraid it may be
too late... but I just came across your site and thought I would try
once more. <?> I have a porcupine puffer in an 80 gal aquarium
along with a powder blue tang, French angelfish, a lionfish and an eel.
<... eighty gallons? Way too small...> When I first set up the
tank... I noticed he swam constantly near the surface, but wouldn't
eat a thing. I had a problem with nitrites for a week or so, but I
removed the fish and fixed the problem. I left the puffer out for a bit
longer in my local stores tank (they were nice enough to hold him for
me)....they said he ate a little when he came in...but then quickly
quit again. He mostly lays around on the bottom of the tank and
hides... <...> He is now back in my aquarium for the last few
weeks, but then I developed an Ich problem (I wouldn't be surprised
if he brought it back with him) which I have been treating with
Prevent-Ich. The Tang and the Angelfish were the worst affected, but
the problem seems to be almost completely under control as the Ich
spots have all but disappeared. (Darn Prevent -Ich seems to have
stained my coral though)... Anyway...through all this, he still
hasn't eaten that I have seen....and now he seems to
"puff-up" involuntarily occasionally, which I know is not
good for them... HELP! One last odd thing....i had my hand in the tank
the other day cleaning something when he swam by me and pretty much
swam into my hand.......I just held him lightly...open palm...basically
letting him rest in my hand....but he didn't puff and made no
effort to move....weird huh? Anyway...thanks for any help you can give! Tod Phoenix, Arizona <You... need... to... move... this livestock
into much larger, more stable quarters. Bob Fenner>
White worm parasites. Porcupine Puffer dis...
mostly 8/3/06 Dear Bob, <Robert> First of all, I
wanted to thank you for your time in answering this and so many other
questions and for having such a fine resource online for helping out
aquarists (especially new ones, such as myself). It seems that anytime
I search the net for info on taking care of my puffers, I get this site
- and usually all of the answers I need. <Ah, thank you for your
kind words. Much appreciated> I decided I needed to write in for
this one, however, as I didn't find exactly what I was looking for
in the previously answered emails. <Okay> My wife and I recently
started a 55 gallon marine tank and have two Mollies (suggested by the
pet shop for starting the cycle) and two Porcupine Puffers... <!
Will be way too much here... even for initially "loading"
this system/volume... and these species are by and large non- to
anti-social with their own kind> One because my wife had fallen
instantly in love with it (the particular fish, not just puffers in
general) and the other because she was afraid it would be lonely by
itself. <Not so. Please relate this to her. Not found in the wild in
close association, "pairs" except during spawning...> This
turned out to be not such a good idea, as the two puffers decided that
the tank wasn't big enough for the both of them. <Oh, yes>
The smaller (and cuter) Puffer (named "Fluff") is less
territorial and less aggressive and seems more interested with swimming
the length of the tank. The larger Puffer (named "Nutter")
isn't as active and seems to get aggressive when Fluff intrudes
upon his area. <...> We've remedied this for the time being
by placing a divider in the tank. (I can almost hear your comment here
about how they need more room - <Heeeee! Am I really becoming
that/this predictable? Good> I agree) At least they have more room
than they did in the pet store, if that's any consolation. <Mmm,
not much. Do understand that pet stores are an aberration... that they
only intend to stock life short term... that of a necessity they
can't afford to not temporarily overcrowd their for sale
charges> Our plans are to buy a second tank (probably another 55
gallon - at least for now) and put a Puffer in each. <Do see WWM,
fishbase.org... elsewhere re the size of this species... Need much
larger quarters, volume... not "when" larger, but now> We
hope to do a much larger tank that's architecturally integrated
into the wall, but we are still reeling from the money we've spent
so far. <Planning... based on investigation, facts my friend...>
The reason for this letter, however, is what I am assuming is a
parasitic infestation. <"It?"> The appearance is of
small worms that are exactly the same size as their spines, but instead
of laying back against their bodies, they are sort of limp and upon
closer inspection, appear to be attached to the puffers skin. It's
hard to say exactly how long ago this began, as Fluff had what we
thought was a 'dead' spine. We had thought that this was a
result of Nutter attacking Fluff, but now that Fluff has healed up from
the attack and they are separated, we've noticed several of these
worms on both Fluff and Nutter. I was considering either a Freshwater
dip or Formalin, but the idea of Formaldehyde worries me. <It
should... toxic... to the fish and you> I was wondering if I could
solve this problem and prevent against Marine Ich by simply reducing
the salinity of the tank. <Mmm, not likely> If so, what range is
good for killing off parasites and not too low for puffers? (I'm
not worried about the mollies, as they're freshwater fish.) Would
it be better (less shock to the puffers) to reduce the salinity to kill
the worms rather than do the Fresh Water bath? <You can read re the
use, efficacy of so-called Hyposalinity Treatments here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/martrthyposalfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. I am decidedly not a fan of this
technique... Not often useful, conclusive... too much stress on the
hosts...> Thanks in advance for your rapid reply and as always for
your helpful info. Robert Perkins <Let's see... the
"worms" may well be a fluke (Flatworm) of some sort... and
could well be a type of crustacean (likely a parasitic copepod of some
sort)... These possibilities could be treated with a biocidal dip of
formalin/formaldehyde (detailed on WWM), but require the animals to NOT
be placed back in the infested system/s (obviously eh?). Instead,
I'd try administering (either together or serially) a vermifuge
like Praziquantel or economic poison/DTHP (in various generic
nominations... see WWM re), or a combo. of both as in a product like
"Fluke Tabs"... Much to relate re this... and I do wish we
were near by where I could take a scraping, look under my cheapie
microscopes, show you which is which here... But do read on re the
above... and write back for clarification, more if all does not become
clear in your searching. Bob Fenner>
Puffer's Nose Has Been
'Bitten' Off 12/13/05 Hey WWM Crew! <Neil> It
seems like every couple of months I find a new reason to ask you guys a
question. Don't know what I would do without WWM! <Me
neither... but I like to consider what I might do with all the extra
time...> You might remember my last question. I was the
gentleman that had purchased a Humu Humu trigger that, strangely
enough, caused my Blue Hippo Tang to start attacking my Porcupine
Puffer. <Displaced aggression... happens> Well, I
followed your advice and the Blue Tang came out and got her own tank
for a couple of months. Problem was that every time I put
her back in, she would start up with the tail nipping
again. Finally, I decided that the Trigger must go - which,
might I add, was no small task. I eventually ended up taking
a whole piece of live rock to the LFS and waiting for them to call when
he had decided to come out - six hours later! <Persistence pays>
Once the Trigger was gone, I rearranged the live rock and put the Blue
Tang back in, and all was peaceful. I even discovered a few
crabs and snails that had been in hiding! <Neat> Now,
here's my latest issue. I feed a mixture (blender and
some tank water to mix it) of tilapia filets, jumbo shrimp, cocktail
shrimp (left mostly whole), mussels (sp?), real crab meat if I can get
it, and Nori. After blended, I put the nasty mix into a
large Ziploc storage bad and spread it thin on a cookie sheet, which is
then placed in the freezer. <Good technique> My puffer will grab
the frozen hunk and, while trying to gulp it down, keep it partially
sticking out of his mouth. The other fish, naturally,
are not deterred and go right ahead and eat off of the other end of the
hunk. <Better to make two or more "sub-hunk" pieces>
Some days ago (5?) I noticed that the very tip of
Puffy's nose (really the upper lip area that somewhat extends onto
his face) had been bitten off. I did not see it happen, so I
can only assume that this is what happened. Since then, his
nose has progressively disappeared. At this point, the wound
area, where his flesh is exposed, is slightly larger than a hole
punch. I am curious, have you ever heard of such a thing?
<Yes, have seen> Is it likely that the Tang has switched ends -
from nipping his fin, to nipping his face? <Maybe>
Or, and this is my suspicion, did he likely get a small wound, and the
'begging act' of dragging his face across the acrylic 24 hours
a day took its toll on the open wound? <Much more
likely, common> Is this something that I should treat, as its quite
a good sized wound (he is only about 5 inches total
length)? I can see the skin 'flexing' as he pushes
it across the acrylic. What, if anything, should I do?
<Nothing overt... not likely to help... nor the rubbing to be
affected> Oh yeah, I have yet to witness the Tang nipping at the
Puffer since I put her back in, and previously she did it constantly.
<Good> As always your insight is so greatly appreciated that I
fail to find the appropriate words. Thank You and Happy Holidays! Neil
<And to you and yours as well. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Porcupine puffer problem... just crowding 7/18/05 Hello, I
have 2 porcupine puffers they are between 5 and 6 inches long in a 50
gallon tank. I have had them since they were 2 inches long and now they
are fighting a few times a week. Is this normal???? <Mmm, yes> Is
it a feeding issue? I feed them frozen krill everyday. can you help?
Thanks, Tony <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/puffersysfaqs.htm and on to and
through the linked files at top where you lead yourself. Your animals
need much more space... and to be separated... Bob Fenner>
Re: Porcupine puffer problem 7/19/05 How big of a tank do
these 2 puffers need? <A few hundred gallons. Bob Fenner>
Re:
puffers 7/19/05 Thanks for the info..... one more question. The
larger of the two puffers for the last 2 weeks has a defined bump on
the underbelly.. almost looks like its pregnant. What could it be?
<Likely a growth semi-directly related to stress... Bob
Fenner>
Help, our new Puffer has a problem >Hello, >>Good
morning. >I have been looking through your FAQ's on pufferfish
and have not found a resolution to our problem.
>>Glad to know that you're aware of the FAQ's, we also
should have an article or two as well. >We just picked up a
porcupine pufferfish about a week ago. He/she is
5' long. Our tank is 46G, and there are also two
small clowns, a 1 ½' butterfly, and a
blenny. We also purchased a small lionfish at this
time, knowing that a good portion of these pets would be moved to our
new 72G reef that we are currently cycling. >>Not the
puffer, I hope. It won't fare well in a 46 for long,
either, and if the lion is a P. volitans neither will it. >Yesterday
morning we noticed a white discoloration, about the size of a dime,
between his eyes and just touching his nose. It was not
fuzzy, or a material on the surface. The skin itself had
changed colors. >>Porkies do this. >Earlier
today, it looked like it went away. My wife and I went
out for a couple of hours, and upon our return, the puffer was laying
on the bottom of the tank and the discoloration has now spread over his
entire face. The color is no longer white, it is
somewhat brown. It is also on his belly as
well. I am not sure if it is a fungal or parasitic
infection. >>I doubt it, though he does sound
stressed. Water quality issues, as you've added two new
fish to a very small system at once. This is not advisable
practice, nor is it advisable to put fish into an established system
without first quarantining for 30 days minimum. >We are considering
getting him into a quarantine tank, and then giving him some
Maracyn. Is it possible, however, that he may have
been stung by the lionfish? What should we
do? We love your site and any assistance you could
provide would be extremely appreciated. Thanks.
>>It is entirely possible he could have been stung, you have put
both these fish into a small system. Again, I advise *very*
strongly against it. ALL the fish should be being
quarantined for 30 days minimum, and mixing a pugnacious fish like a
porcupine puffer with a defensive eating machine like a lionfish in
tight quarters isn't wise at all. Separate them, get
them into their *own* q/t's, and watch. I would wait to
use the Maracyn until AFTER you've tested the water the fish is
being kept in to be certain the issue isn't water
quality. Good luck! Marina Dave
Emperor Angel and Porcupine Puffer As always you guys are
doing an AWESOME job! (I know it's cliche here, but its
true) <awwwhhh, shucks! Thanks kindly <smile>> Anyway, two
quick questions: 1. I recently purchased a young Emperor Angel and he
was eating as soon as I got him home, aware of his surroundings,
etc'¦ BUT he seems to swim slowly on one side or the other. Is
this normal behavior for this species, or a sick fish? <hmmm...
symptomatically called "listing"...indeed not normal or
healthy but not indicative necessarily of a specific condition to
treat. Continue to feed well until it improves or betrays an
addressable symptom (spots, fin erosion, etc) 2. My Trigger and Puffer
had an accident. While feeding they went for the same target, but the
trigger missed and caught the puffer between his eyes. The trigger took
my puffer (the first time I've seen him puff up) for a spin before
realizing what he had done. When he let go the puffer had a mark on the
side of his eye where he had been bitten. That mark has turned white
like scar tissue over the last two days. Is that white possibly
infection, or new skin? <hmmm hard to say, but infections get
ugly real fast. My guess is raw skin and healing. Do watch closely
though and review disease section here on WWM for injury treatments and
medicants if necessary> Will it heal and return normal color?
<very likely> Do I need to worry about infection, do anything to
help it heal? <be prepared with a good QT tank if necessary for
either fish> Thanks a million, Mark <best regards,
Anthony>
Injured Fish Question I have a 110gal fish only. I purchased
a 4-5 inch Spiny Box puffer from the LFS about three weeks ago. About a
week ago I noticed he got ruffed up, probably by a 12 inch Banded Moray
Eel. Of the three fins near his tail, one is down to flesh, and the
other two are 80%gone. He also has a lot of trauma near his tail. He
still eats like a pig. I soak his food of choice (raw shrimp) in
Vita-Chem every day, and Iodine twice a week. Is this too much iodine?
Is he going to be OK? Is there anything else I can do? He's a cool
fish and I don't want to lose him. And thanks for the great column!
<<Hmm, do you have another tank to move the puffer to? Is
anything still chewing on it? I would only add some iodine to the food
once a week. If the areas where the fins are growing back (they will if
not chewed all the way to their bases) look reddened... do contact me
and I'll tell you how to make an antibiotic laced food. Eating
heartily is a good sign... and I've seen puffers recover from much
worse injuries. Keep your water quality high and stable, and s/he
should get better. Bob Fenner>>
Puffer Time! Hi Bob, I recently bought a 3-4 in. long-spine
porcupine puffer to add to my 55 gal. tank. I have a blue fin
damsel, maroon clown, yellow tail damsel, and a lawnmower blenny.
when I first introduced him into my tank he was up and swimming
around., but the next day he way really shy and stayed in the
corner of my tank all day. he had more than enough swimming space, for
there is only about 30 lbs. o live rock. he also hasn't been
eating anything, I tried feeding it frozen brine shrimp, he
didn't eat that, and also tried to feed him beef heart
(frozen) he didn't eat that. what is wrong with him? please
help! <<Actually probably nothing is wrong with your new
Puffer... these intelligent animals just get sort of depressed at
times... particularly when being moved about... Do have patience, and
I'll bet it will be up and eating like a veritable pig in a week or
so. In the meanwhile don't worry about it starving. These fishes
often do go on feeding strikes, sometimes for weeks at a time. Try
feeding it something like krill or an opened shellfish every few days.
Bob Fenner>>
Porcupine puffer with a swollen eye I wonder if you can help,
I recently acquired a Porcupine puffer about 3 inches in length. he
currently shares a 180L tank with a small Volitans, a 3 inch Clown
Trigger fish, a 5 inch Pink tail trigger, a Powder Blue Tang, and an
Imperator Angel. All the water parameters are in very good shape, but
about 1 week after being added to my tank, he suddenly developed a
very, very swollen eye. The eye enlarged in the space of an hour just
after feeding. It's now about 3 weeks later and the situation has
worsened, the swelling is massive and looks very uncomfortable, a
significant amount of air is clearly visible behind the eye cover and
in front of the eye itself. The poor creatures buoyancy is clearly
affected yet he feeds enthusiastically. have you ever experienced
anything like this before? <Yes... first hand and otherwise. Popeye,
aka exophthalmia is a condition... that has several
etymologies/causes... If it's one-sided typically this is resultant
from a mechanical injury... a bump in the night or some other organism
bruising the animal... likely one of your triggers or the Angel...>
do you know of any treatments? <For advanced cases like this? Best
to just "wait, hope, see" what happens... Please see the
"Popeye" and related sections on our site:
www.WetWebMedia.com for more here> Thanks in advance for your help,
I've been very impressed with the words of wisdom you have offered
others. Regards, Ian <Thank you for your kind words... don't
know about wisdom, but collective experience, yes. Bob Fenner>
Re: Porcupine puffer with a swollen eye Thanks for the speedy
reply Bob, just a quick update, last night the eye deflated
substantially. <Ah, good> It's now about the same size
as the good eye but looks a real mess (very opaque and the eye cover
surface is rough and flaky). As for the porky himself, well he seems
very busy and active (getting on the nerves of the Pink Tail seems to
be his favorite pass time!!!) <Also good> Thanks again for the
help, I'm just about to move all my guys into a 190 gallon (UK
gallons) system and build a 90 gallon reef system, so I'm sure
I'll be in touch again if that's ok <Absolutely my friend.
Bob Fenner> Cheers from the UK, Ian
Healing puffer I think I had mentioned this fellow to you
before, asking questions about resilience, etc. Anyway, he
[Holocanthus] had a tank mate at the LFS who chewed his tail fin,
pretty much down to the base. He had been separated for a week or so
when I bought him and was definitely on the mend from times previous.
Anyway, now that he's "under observation" the tail had
always a thin filament of [what I assumed to be] bone around which
tissue is growing back. Now after a week, that filament, which was at
one point bleach white (like the tissue around it) is now red-ish
brown... the other tissue looks the same as before, and is still
growing. <Okay> My question(s): is the redness blood supply or
infection? What can be done to stave off infections? Vitamins? <A
good idea... more likely re-growth than infection> Tank finished
cycling about two weeks ago and since then have had a small ammonia
spike due to chunk of live rock bailing out, but things are now as
normal as they can be, but I was concerned that an antibiotic or
similar treatment would behave like copper and wipe all cultures
without discrimination. <Hmm... depends on antibiotic type...
and more> Silly me, don't have a quarantine tank yet [got to
your site after the tank was going] but will have one completed by
tomorrow evening. <Now you're getting smarter> Could treat in
there I suppose, or should I just keep observing. Fish is quite healthy
otherwise, and is quite active/animated. <Don't move it> TIA.
<You're welcome as quickly. Bob Fenner> J --
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