FAQs on Stinging-Celled Animal Health/Disease/Pests 4
FAQs on Cnidarian Disease:
Cnidarian Disease 1, Cnidarian
Disease 2, Cnidarian Disease
FAQs on Cnidarian Disease by Category:
FAQs on Cnidarian Disease
Sea Fan Disease,
Health, Stony Coral Disease,
Water Flow, How Much is Enough,
Related FAQs: Cnidarians 1, Cnidarians 2, Cnidarian Identification, Cnidarian Behavior, Cnidarian Compatibility, Cnidarian Selection, Cnidarian Systems, Cnidarian Feeding, Cnidarian Reproduction,
Symbiotic Reef Invertebrates to Captive
Mushroom killing bacteria?
Hi Crew! I am at a total loss, I need help.
I run 2 tanks, my main 75 gallon display tank (established 3.5 years) and a
newer (7/8 mth) 55 gallon 'frag tank'.
I am a big mushroom enthusiast, but also keep a variety of other soft corals,
Zoanthids, lps and a couple small easy sps (birdsnests, montis).
<Mmm; you likely have heard/read that Zoas and Shrooms often "fight"
chemically; more than most stony corals>
You'll hate to hear this but I have never been big on testing, I simply rely on
frequent small water changes via drip, and constant observation for anything
looking 'off'. I have a low fish stock in both (maroon clown, starry blenny,
azure damsel, pink spotted watchmen and an unknown Anthias in the 75, and a
small clarkii clown and azure in 55).
<I'm of the same "practice">
Up until recently both tanks have thrived, very minimal coral or fish loss over
the past few years. Everything has always seemed very stable and well balanced,
no issues with algae and in fact immediately before my current
issue my display tank looked the best it ever had.
But we all make mistakes, and I always learn from them, but in this case I think
it's too late. I know I should have been quarantining everything and I have
learned and now have a quarantine tank set up but as I said, too late.
So on to my issue. A few months ago I purchased the coral contents of a fellow
reefers tank with plans of fragging and reselling the corals. The vast majority
were Euphyllia (torches, hammers, frogspawn, as well as a favia, large brain and
some others) I placed them all in my frag tank, except one large plate that I
didn't have space for that went into my display.
<The Euphyllias rank near the top for allelopathy amongst Scleractinians...
Oh how I wish you'd slowly acclimated the new to the established as gone over
Within 24 hours the brain and plate both looked ill
<Losers to the mentioned combatants; classical>
and eventually started melting, and were covered in the dreaded brown jelly.
Never having dealt with brown jelly before it was a great learning experience. I
promptly removed both corals but the brown jelly didn't take long to affect the
other Euphyllia (i suppose since they were not well established and under
stress). I saw no ill effects on any corals in my main tank, assuming because
they were well established and healthy. My attempts at fragging off dying
pieces, treating in a separate tank with furan 2, dips with revive, rinsing in
fw etc all failed. In the end i lost
the vast majority of Euphyllia that I had purchased, aside from the frogspawn
which never seemed effected.
A few weeks later and all the Euphyllia in the frag tank were gone besides the
frogspawn, and everything seemed back to normal, so I resumed my normal
practices. I fragged some Rhodactis mushrooms in the frag tank,
<... Yeeikes; not in the tank; not this soon>
and to my surprise they melted. I have never had issues with fragging any
mushrooms in the past. At the time I did not think it could be related, (and am
still not sure it is) maybe I had just 'butchered' them or they weren't well
established, so I simply decided to hold off on any fragging for a while. At
some point I moved some mushrooms into my display, considering them quarantined
and healthy. Weeks went by with no issues, now the nightmare starts.
A few weeks ago I lost one of my prize Rhodactis in my display. It had been
doing amazing and was growing rapidly, and then didn't open fully for a couple
days, then suddenly melted within hours. Since then many healthy
mushrooms (some that I have had for at least 3 years) have just suddenly melted
<A familiar "cascade" event>
Some first detach from the rock then disappear, some start expelling their guts
then begin oozing from their mouths till they melt away, the odd one simply
begins oozing from an outside edge then melts. These are healthy mushrooms, not
recently fragged or damaged in any way. I have learned to syphon them out now as
soon as i see it beginning, but I need to find a way to stop this!
<For now; just time going by: NO CHANGES>
So far it has only affected Rhodactis and Discosoma, I haven't lost a single
Ricordea, or any other type of coral for that matter. The mushrooms that die are
all in random places in the tank, it doesn't necessarily travel from one and
then directly to it's neighbour. I even accidentally damaged a hammer coral
while moving it (it and an anemone were getting dangerously close to each other
) and it has recovered quickly and without incident.
I've done large water changes and added carbon with no luck, just in case it was
I apologize for the long story, but I feel all details are necessary.
<They are; no worries>
Please help guide me, what steps should I take next? I have spent 3.5 years
building my mushroom collection, this is devastating to me. I am normally very
good at researching and problem solving on my own, but I feel I have
hit a dead end.
<IF you have other well-established systems to move some stock to, I would.
Otherwise, no further additions or fragging here for a few months>
The last thing I would like to note is that the only other major change I had
made around the time this started was that I began feeding Reef Roids to the
tank, although I am sure this is merely coincidental.
<Agreed. Bob Fenner>
Please help. Cnid. allelopathy in a new, large sys.
Hello Mr. Fenner,
I hope you can point me in the right direction. I have a 265 gallon reef
tank that I set up 4 months ago. I have sump/refugium, 4" carbon
reactor, 6" media reactor with media pellets, 8" skimmer. Lights are 4 Hydra 26
Nitrate /phosphate is zero
<Mmm; stop here: You know that all bio-mineralizing life requires "some" NO3 and
HPO4? W/o these basic chemical nutrients all your "corals" will be very
and the water is within reef parameters. The tank has 3 sections. Left
is Zoas, center is 100 plus heads of hammers/frogspawn, and the right is 18"
green leather and 4" green toadstool.
Everything was fine with Zoas multiplying, hammers sprouts tiny babies but
within the past 5 days, some of the hammer heads just died leaving stalk
<The "losers"... to either the Alcyoniids or Zoanthids>
I bought a 60 gallon so this weekend I can put the finger/toadstool in it.
I hook up the FX6 filter (400 GPH) with carbon to address chemical warfare since
Monday. I think the reasons on the demise of the hammers are :
1. Chemical release from leather/toadstool.
2. Media reactor strips all nitrate/phosphate which hammers do need to grow.
<Definitely a/some factor>
So my plan is:
1. Move the toadstool/green finger to the 60 gallon.
2. Discontinue the FX6.
3. Discontinue the carbon and media reactor (all in one pellets).
The Zoas are thriving with new heads forming every week. I love to have a garden
of hammers and while some people grow these like weeds, I can't keep them alive.
Before dying, they thrive then die next day. Is my diagnosis and plan of action
correct? Thank you Mr. Fenner. Dai
<I do agree with your plan; is what I would do, try at this point. IF no
improvement, I would move the Euphyllias elsewhere. DO PLEASE READ AND HEED my
acclimation protocol for introducing any/all NEW Cnidarians... by mixing water
to/fro twixt the main-display and isolation/quarantine system. HERE:
<<Note: next time mention triple-dosing iodide-ate>>
Re: Please help
Thank you Mr. Fenner. So you are saying maybe it is the Zoas that are affecting
the hammers as well ?
<Might/could well be; yes>
In that case should I move the hammers to the 60 and leave the toadstool/finger
in the main tank?
<Yes; a better plan... Plus I'd triple dose all (both systems) with
iodide-ate... every three days, three times>
Or just leave them in the main tank for now? I bought the 60 for the leathers
specifically. Is it OK to run the 4" carbon reactor?
<Can't say from here. I would NOT use such on a newish system period>
On another topic. I think the" all in one pellets" give people the false sense
<Oh yeah; the/a "western ethic"... trained to be good consumers... "Buying"
something... but sans understanding, often false notion/s>
The dealer touts as " zero nitrate and zero phosphate" so people go crazy
thinking they don't have to do water for a year. But while this is true, it is
hurting corals because it is stripping of the essential nutrients that corals
<Yes... even other media/sources tout that the world's reefs are "nutrient free"
when in good shape. NOT the case. They are nutrient concentrated; with the life
there scavenging most all available. NEVER zero nutrients in the water>
If you have to rely on these 'miracles" to get nitrate/PO4 to be zero then that
person needs to evaluate his technique of husbandry.
<Very well stated>
Thank you and I look forward to your guidance. Dai
<And I to your further sharing. BobF>
Re: Please help 5/27/16
Ok, so this is the plan. Move the hammers to the 60. How much of new water to
old water ratio be?
If the old water is not good (chemical warfare, no nutrients) then may be start
with 100% fresh water?
You talk about triple dose 2 tanks but I am not familiar with the medication.
You mean every three days, I dose the tank 3 times a day and for how long? Is
this the iodine coral dip?
<See WWM re. B>
Help My Corals Are Dying and I don't know why 1/10/16
HELP! My Corals are Dying.... an informative advert.
If you are like me, every morning you wake up and the first thing you do is go
over to your tank and feed your fish. Everything in your tank looks fine, until
one day you notice one of your corals is dead! You think, what the heck
Yesterday everyone looked healthy.
Here are some quick tips on how to find answers:
1) Test your water! Your tank maybe eating up more nutrients than you think.
Test all water parameters and make sure your tank has the correct amount of
supplements needed for your tank type.
2) Add Supplements! When a doctor advises we need take supplements to raise the
vitamin levels in our bodies, we follow their advice and start taking vitamin
Corals are no different. The supplements we add allow corals to grow, thrive,
and remain healthy.
3) Monitor your tank during the night. Parasites and other harmful creepy
crawlies tend to come out a night to feed. A simple red light will allow you to
see what is going on in your tank without disturbing your tank's day and
4) Dip! If you notice parasites are enjoying the all you can eat coral buffet,
dip your corals and rid the tank of those tissue eating pests.
<One approach. Bob Fenner>
My name is Jon. I have been in the hobby <sic>along time but I have been having
<No such word>
of problems with some of my corals and I need your advice. Some of my Acropora
are dying from the base up. Also a fair amount of my Zoas are not doing well. I
have yet to see any pests on the Zoas when I check them. I do have alot of xenia
in my one tank with the Acros. Not sure if that's a problem with that tank.
These two tanks are both 75gallon. I run doser on both with bionic and no3po4x.
<These organisms need some/measurable NO3 and HPO4... SEE WWM re>
I use Salifert test kits for every parameter except ph and phosphate. Api for ph
and Hanna checker for phosphate. The tank with Acropora has zero phosphate
with Hanna checker but I have Cyano growing
<.... what's your RedOx here?>
and Bryopsis plus the xenia is over growing that tank. Nitrates were 10pm last I
checked. The other tank with lps and soft coral has .02 phosphate and 5ppm
nitrates but has hair algae issue. Both are bare bottom.
I have about 75 to 90 lbs of live rock and a good amount of flow in the tank.
Calcium runs at 470ppm
<Too high... READ on WWM re this as well>
for both tanks and alkalinity at around 8 dKH for both tanks. Magnesium at
<Out of ration; problematic as well>
for both tanks. Ph is at about 8.1 for both tanks. Temp is around 78 and goes up
2 degrees when lights are on. I thank you for all your help in advance.
<Where to start? There are chances your situation is influenced by allelopathy;
but the mis-use of the chemical filtrant may be more primary than this.... When
you're done reading, write us back w/ more specific questions. Bob Fenner>
Re: Coral problems. Reef Tanks, Life, Everything!
Thank you for your help! Sorry if I jump all over with questions. I just am
distraught over corals not doing well and want to be successful.
<No problem; I do understand >
Sorry for the long letter. Here goes. How much nitrate do Sps need? And Zoas?
<A few ppm>
What's a good level for phosphate for sps and Zoas?
<A few hundreds ppm>
Should I feed Zoas and sps?
If so what should I feed?
<? Just read on WWM.... see the FAQs, articles....>
I have fauna Marin Zoa and Ricordea food? Is that good for Zoas?
<Not really.... most commercial prep.s are garbage. So much pollution. Make your
own mashes... with supplements>
How do I feed that and how often? I also use oyster feast maybe once a week for
both tanks. What should I feed sps and how? Broadcast or direct? How often?
<Again; all gone over and over. We have many thousands of people use the site
daily.... no time for re-keying... see the 14k some pages>
My Acropora tank has two clownfish and a yellow Coris wrasse for pest control. I
feed the fish once a day.
<See WWM re this as well. I'd feed more frequently>
The other tank has a pair of Banggai cardinal which don't come out.
What kind of fish do I get to control algae?
<STOP writing and start reading>
Whenever I get a tang they either nip my Zoas or my brain coral which then they
Are Salifert calcium test kits good?
<They're okay... middle of the road for colorimetric assays... Accurate and
precise enough for most aquarists use>
What should I get my calcium down to?
<No more than 400 ppm>
what's out of ration mean?
<Ratio... Ca:Mg s/b about 1:3>
What's RedOx and why is it important? How do I test it? How do I change it if
<Aye ya... the reading>
Xenia does chemical warfare? How do I combat that? How do I get rid of xenia on
What about the no3po4x? It's keeping my nitrates down. My Acropora tank has
10ppm nitrate and the Zoanthid, lps tank has 5ppm nitrate. Should I back off on
that chemical or feed more. Some of my Acropora are receding from the base and
Zoas don't look good except for a couple of colonies. Should I add iodide to
benefit the Zoas? I have read some people had good growth by doing that. I do
use Kent tech I once a week.
Lastly I put a light over my sump in each tank and put Caulerpa down there.
Will that help nitrates and phosphates so I don't need to use no3po4x? Should
the refugium light be on 24 hours so Caulerpa doesn't go sexual or be on reverse
daylight photoperiod? Thanks again!
<Enjoy the reading. Write back after you've done a bit more studying.... With
specific questions. I do suggest you invest in a few good reef books (Fossa and
Nilsen are my faves, but Delbeek and Sprung copies will work), and the time to
study, understand what you're up to. Bob Fenner>
Cyano bacterium... as a poss. factor in corals doing poorly
Just finished reviewing the exhaustive FAQ for the day and did not see my issue
discussed. Poor coral growth. 88 gal with 25 gal refugium, tank is 28 in
38 across reef tank light bank 3 T5 bulbs coral sun Actinic 420 and 3 ocean sun
<Do you have access to a PAR or PUR meter? Maybe check w/ your LFS, clubs
thereabouts re borrowing>
Have tried 5hrs -9 hrs of light a day. The tank is built in and is exposed on
both front and back, no direct sun but lots of
light most days. Water temp 80.4, sp generally 1.024-25, pH 8.25, KH 108, Ca 410
relatively low phosphate and nitrate. Lots of live rock, feed reef energy A&B
every other night. The problem is that every coral I put in the tank turns brown
or brownish, I like mushrooms and have purchased green, orange, blue but within
weeks they all turn brownish. Have enormous growing Frogspawn
<Ahh; this Euphyllia is one factor.... Read here:
but is brownish green.
Second problem, I started doing frequent water changes to control my hairy algae
and it has been very helpful, but I have developed a Cyano bacterium problem
that the local store said was due to too frequent water changes!
<Mmm; other factors really.... DO the reading re BGA, its control on WWM...
easy enough to sort out>
He recommended Red Slime away "safe for inverts, corals fish.
<Can be of use; but... the reading>
Well now I still have red slim but lost an anemone, most of my snails, crabs and
a gorgeous large Royal Gramma and a lovely Midas blue eyed blenny all of which
seemed to be doing well prior to treatment. I am approaching true frustration.
Please impart some wisdom and help correct this situation.
<Do you need help using the search tool, indices? Your
answers are all archived; well, speculations and further adventures more like.
Do the reading and write back w/ more specific concerns. Bob
Help! Something eating my corals in the middle of the night!
Hello! First I want to say thanks for all the information you guys provide, it's
helped me get through a lot of sticky situation. I need your help once again.
For the past several days I have looked all over your site and the rest of the
Internet for an answer and have not been able to find one. This started about a
week ago when I noticed my mushrooms that were close to the sand bed just
completely vanishing overnight. Mushrooms that were close to the sand bed were
BEAUTIFULLY opened all day and next day in the morning COMPLETELY gone and all I
saw was slime covering where the mushroom used to be and some mushrooms just the outside ring was left but the entire center was
gone. First it happened to about 10 Ricordeas from literally one night to the
next, then it happened to a huge colony of red and blue mushrooms.
On the 3rd day I decided to remove all sand and investigate, found nothing.
I decided I would put the alarm clock about 2 hours after lights shut off to
investigate. I did this and the only thing I found was A TON of little round
white and brown snail.
<Mmm; don't think they're the immediate cause. What other Cnidarians are
Tried looking on internet but I believe may be some type of Nerite snails, I
don't think they are the problem because they were EVERYWHERE and not on top of
any corals and I figured they can get to all corals not just the ones near the
sand. Next night (after removing all my remaining mushrooms) now it was
a few Acan, chalice, and Favia frags that were also on sand bed.
<Mmm; these too should not have out-warred Corallimorphs>
They are literally half eaten and all i see is a slimy residue and the skeleton
underneath. I have since moved these corals to a higher location and they are
doing fine now. I took another coral and put it on the sand bed right before I
turned off the lights and sure enough by morning it was covered in slime and
skeleton was all that was left. Please help! I don't know what else to do! There
is still some sand left and I really don't want to remove ALL my sand but I will
if I have to. Thanks.
<Well; such an overnight problem (vs. a little over weeks time) and w/ the
Shrooms presenting as you state... Am guessing this is/was some sort of "melt
down" prompted by a challenge to the Mushrooms... Did you do something the day
ahead of the event? Like add a supplement, medication, algicide or such? You may
gain solace and useful input from reading re other such events; here:
and the "same advice" listed there. Bob Fenner>
Re: Help! Something eating my corals in the middle of the night!
Thank you so much for the quick response! I also thought that maybe it was a
series of events from maybe the mushroom toxins but I'm starting to rule that
out because during the day all these corals that are waking up dead and covered
in slime are nice and opened during the day and at night they're gone..
<... more like a chemical battle... Allelopathy>
Plus the ones that were affected were moved up and are doing well and others
that were doing well up top, I moved down and were eaten that night.
I did see a couple of Asterina stars which I forgot to mention. Can you please
clarify which is the bad Asterina vs. the good ones and do they eat all types of
<You can just look this up on WWM... the indices, search tool on every page>
So far it's been mushrooms, Acans, chalices, Favia, and all have been on the
sand bed. Wall hammers, wall frogspawn,
<...?! You didn't mention these Euphylliids in your orig. email... Read about
these as well>
and Acroporas are unaffected. Any other ideas?
Re: Help! Something eating my corals in the middle of the
Hello again! I have spent the ENTIRE SEVERAL DAYS reading and I can't
figure out what this could be.
<My guess/conjecture is the same as I've stated: There ARE predators of
cnidarians; fish, crustaceans, molluscs, worms... but this is MUCH MORE
likely an allelopathogenic effect. The Euphylliids "winning" and the
Corallimorpharians losing... There's not much living material/tissue to
these animals (mostly water)... once toxified they phagocytose...
self-digest at the cellular level>
All corals are doing great now ever since I decided to get EVERY CORAL
off the sand or anywhere near the bottom and I put an egg crate and
lifted it up with pvc to about 2 inches from the sand to putt all my
frags on. After about 2 days seeing that I did not have not even 1 more
loss I decided to do another experiment.
<Ohh, I do like this>
I got a maze brain frag, and another typed of Favia frag that were both
doing great and sat them down on the sand and I shut off the lights and
waited with a red flashlight in hand. Sure enough my sand
started attacking the coral. I can't explain what I saw but it
was like micro little white specks rising from the sand onto the coral.
The best way I can explain is that it's like a slimy/hazy cloud of
little tiny micro white specks rising from sand onto the coral. This is
the best pic I could get.
<Sorry to state, I can't make out much here>
Please explain what this is because in 15 years of reefkeeping I'm at a
loss. If you try and look at the bottom of the coral u can see the
The only way I was able to take a pic is turning on my blues. You can
see towards the bottom right of the pic. Not all the way in the corner
of the pic but just to the left of the corner. Thanks in advance.
<Well; maybe "something" in the gravel is at play here; I don't know
what it is though. I would put your data, pix on the various "reef bb's"
and see what other folks speculate. Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Freshwater dipping new corals & coral frags
I have looked through Wet Web Media and have not been able to find a
complete answer to why dipping corals and frags in freshwater (RO/DI) is
<Too much stress; not worth it in trade-off of what one might get in
terms of lessening pests, parasites. Some slightly lower spg (a
thousandth or two) with the addition of iodide/ate, and possibly a
simple sugar (glucose or such... a hexose or pentose) IS>
I have seen statements that say to not do it on Wet Web Media, but I would
like to know the science behind the why.
<How much? Have you considered the use of a reference librarian... help
w/ a computer search bibliography? There's bits and pieces re these on
Thank you for your time!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Coral Killing Worm??
<Steph; you're about an order of magnitude over our stated file size>
This worm type thing has just made itself visible over the last couple
days. Not quite sure what it is and just so happens to be wrapped around
in the trumpet colony (about 15+ heads) that very suddenly began dying
and are dying very quickly....very close to being 100% dead now. It
looks like it was eaten down to the skeleton! At least it does to me....
<Mmm, not from this organism>
Any clue what this thing is?? It is about the thickness of a strand of
hair and tan & black striped and quite long...about 3-4 inches so far.
My leather coral which was a neighbor of the trumpets is nearly on its
side today and I am wondering if this thing started to mess with it.
Don't want to go sticking my hands in there to get the dead trumpets out
without knowing this thing wont hurt me haha.
<Could be a type of (Sedentariate Polychaete) spaghetti worm... >
See attached pictures. Thanks kindly for your assistance & Happy
<Thanks. Something else going on here... a lack of nutrient,
allelopathy likely... Write back w/ the history of stocking, the gear
employed (esp. chem. filtration), any water quality test results...
|re: Coral Killing Worm??
Were you able to see the picture? Is it that the picture was too large or
was it too many pics?
<... the total file size. See where you find how to write us if concerned>
My tank is a 29g biocube with a history of high nitrates :very high
80+ at times:
<I encourage you to read on WWM re ways/means of controlling NO3>
and am FINALLY putting in a skimmer this wknd also my bulbs are probably
just about 9 months old..also about to upgrade to LEDs finally.
My Favia frags died then my trumpets started going!
<... at least water quality to blame>
My Ricordeas, mushrooms, softies & Zoas have been beautiful.
<... these last three poisoning the others when stressed. Read here:
and the linked files above... esp. for the Zoanthids, Alcyonaceans... One
can keep such a mish mash together, even in small volumes, but the systems
must be homeostatic (stable) AND optimized... Yours is not...>
The mushrooms are dividing like crazy.
I have a plate that is bigger than ever and looks good & another baby plate
growing from a colony of Zoas. Pair of clowns, 6ish Astrea Turbo/Trochus
Banded mixture with one or two Nassarius remaining.
My last hermit bit the dust as well (was 9 months old). The funny thing is
that the hermit died right on the trumpet colony base close to where that
worm is coming from. I also have some micro brittle stars, bristleworms, lots
of feather dusters, colonial hydroids, etc hitchhikers. My 5ish month old
Scooter Blenny also disappeared last week. Literally disappeared.
Still no sign of it.
Unsure what Allelopathy means. Battling some Cyano now. Things aren't going
great in there. I had ignored it a bit because I was just getting ready to
upgrade and was hoping once that occurred things would straighten out but
cannot upgrade now as my significant other got laid off last week. So, for
xmas i will be buying myself a used AquaticLife 115 & either the new bulbs
or a retrofit LED kit. Also about 3 months into my Purigen & ChemiPure so
about to switch those out. And im running a small fuge in the back.
Im getting ready to really overhaul this mess of a tank!
Incase you are able to view just one photo I have included one. I am not
sure how to resize and such.
re: Coral Killing Worm?? Take 2
Sorry - forgot to add the photo. Also, I was using a lot of Prime during the
last week since the scooter blenny disappeared....incase he is decomposing
<Not a viable method to resist pollution. B>
re: Coral Killing Worm?? Take 2
<Don't write: READ>
No? I thought it would help keep any possible ammonia from being
toxic...aside from a couple extra water changes that is. So, I shouldn't use
Does the worm look like a Spaghetti Worm to you? I know I have Googled them
& they aren't usually striped like that? I apologize for my ignorance here.
Im excited to get things back on track. Slowly but surely.
death slime? Info.? 10/29/13
My parameters are all in check. I've had my tank established for
almost three years with no serious issues.
All of a sudden I noticed one day a pinkish slime (NOT CAYNO) covering 1
of my Ricordeas, the next day the Ricordea was completely gone...
<... Cayno? You likely mean Cyano/bacteria... BGA>
About 2 days later I saw the slime on another Ricordea, I cleaned it
off, but the Ricordea died just like the first.
A day or 2 later, the same thing happened to my last Ricordea
Now I came home from work and I noticed it on half of my war coral, I
used a pipette to clean it off and the war coral is destroyed right down
to the skeleton
Any ideas of what is going on? what I can do to treat the tank ?
<... do you have access to a microscope? I'd be looking at a bit of this
material... chicken/egg sort of question here... Is there some sort of
"destroyer" at work, OR just evidence of decomposition... ONCE whatever
the cause is here killing your Cnidarians... In other words, need
information/data to help you. Bob Fenner>
Thanks in advance,
Can't Keep Corals. Please Help/Growing Corals
Here is the background on my tank, specks and routines Red Sea
max 250, 65 Gallons (Set up March 2011)
<Just got one of these myself, nice system.>
2 Vortech MP10's
JBJ auto top off
Running only the three 10,000k t5's
2 12" blue stunners
1 24" blue/violet mix stunner
1 10k 12" stunner
<The stunner LEDs do not do much for coral growth, but geared
more toward color pop. In reality, the three T5s are providing
the only light your corals can use and is not quite enough. In
terms of coral growth, if the light is within the active spectrum
of the chlorophylls in the Zooxanthellae algae, which fall
between 400-550nm and 620-740nm, then there will be nutrition
provided for the coral to grow. And, most shallow water corals do
not benefit from wavelengths below 450nm. You would have been
better off leaving the original T5 complement and adding one or
two Ecoxotic stunner lights. I'm quite sure there is enough
space in the hood to do this as these LED strips are less than
1/2" deep. Take a peek here.
Some corals will also require additional nutrients and in looking
at your parameters, your system is pretty nutrient free. Consider
using a product called Phyto-Feast produced by Reed Mariculture
or another similar product to provided these nutrients.>
Light cycle goes as follows: 9am blue and blue/violet stunner
comes on, 10am 10k stunner comes on, 11am mains come on and 10k
stunner goes out. reverse at night starting at 9pm.
Just hooked up Neptune's Apex lite with 3 Bulk reef supply
dosing pumps for Alk, cal, and Mag about 3 weeks ago.
Running Chemi-pure Elite and an extra bag of Carbon
<The carbon isn't necessary when using Chemipure.>
2 Ocellaris clowns
1 Six Line Wrasse
1 Yellow Eye Kole tank <Tang> 3.5"
<Your tank will be too small for this fish in time.>
1 Coral Beauty 3"
1 Starry Blenny
1 Sand Sifting Starfish
<Likely will starve to death in this system.>
rock with Zoanthids
frospawn <Frogspawn, and this is an aggressive
coral in terms of allelopathy and likely causing some
Alk - 12.2
Mag - 1440
Cal - 420
Nitrates - 0
salinity - 1.025
ph - 7.9-8.1
temp - 79.5-80.3
I do a weekly 5 gallon water change, never miss it.
This tank has been up since end of March and started out well.
Almost an instant cycle, started out with live rock and live
sand. In the past two to three months we have had nothing but
problems minus the fish. All of our corals are dying and cannot
figure out why (small Birdsnest, long tentacle plate coral,
pagoda cup rock, digitata frag). Par *had* been a little rocky to
start and I attributed some corals dying to that. Lost a
different birds nest due to Alk swings.
<Would not cause loss of corals. I'd relocate the
Frogspawn and see if conditions improve.>
I had been using reef fusion two part dosing from the beginning.
Then I purchased the Apex lite and dosing pumps to start adding
Bulk Reef Supply 2 part solution so that I can keep everything
super stable. Despite trying to make all the parameters more
stable and get my tank on "cruse control" [Mr.
Saltwater Tank] it seems as though nothing is working. I had the
plate from the start of the tank, first one I bought, and the
pagoda was in for at least two months, both were doing great and
then just started to literally decay. I have coral rx'ed
everything that went into the tank and had even had to take some
out to re-dip to see if it would help but nothing. I did notice
that there were some worms on the bottom of the plate and pagoda
when I took them out for a dip.
At that point I was lost because I didn't know if it was the
bugs killing things or the parameters. I had also found Zoanthid
eating Nudibranchs on which I dipped to kill and have not seen
them since. Now, in the past three days, my Frogspawn, which has
been the best and healthiest coral I have, has lost two of its
five heads completely. And it was lost quickly, first one was
there when I went to work and gone when I got home and same for
the second one.
I guess my question is what the heck, I have heard that people do
way less and have parameters that change a lot more that have no
problems, and I feel like I am going above and beyond and I got
nothing. Could there be a big bug problem or am I doing something
<Lighting for one, nutrition, and better selection of corals
in terms of allelopathy.
Although the RSM is 65 gallons, the foot print isn't all that
large and with Euphyllia corals such as your Frogspawn that are
capable of shooting out powerful sweeper tentacles up to one foot
in length doesn't give your other corals much breathing room.
This event generally occurs in the evening
while you are sleeping.>
Any help would be great. My wife loves the tank when its going
well but I think she has had about enough and I don't want to
give it up so I'm sort of desperate. Thanks in advance. If
you need anymore info on the tank or situation let me know,
<As above and do read here and related articles/FAQs found in
A good investment would be purchasing a book titled Aquarium
Corals by Eric Borneman.
James (Salty Dog)>