FAQs about Compatibility of Caryophyllid Corals
Related Articles: Caryophyllid Corals, Elegance Coral, 'Coral' Compatibility: On Reducing
Captive Negative Interactions Cnidarians
by Bob Fenner, ppt. vers: Cnidarian Compatibility: On Reducing Negative
Cnidarian Interaction Parts: 1,
2, 3, 4,
5, by Bob Fenner
Related FAQs: Elegance Coral Compatibility, Caryophyllids 1, Caryophyllids 2, Caryophyllids 3, Caryophyllids 4, Caryophyllid ID, Caryophyllid Systems, Caryophyllid Selection, Caryophyllid Behavior, Caryophyllid Feeding, Caryophyllid Disease, Caryophyllid Propagation/Reproduction,
Stony/True Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral Placement, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition, Disease/Health, Propagation, Growing Reef Corals, Stony Coral Behavior,
Allelopathy Inquiry 5/11/16
Dear Bob & Crew,
Thanks again for your time and experience!
<And you for sharing Joe>
Another question today on the fascinating topic of allelopathy. I am
gradually changing my 155 reef to all stony corals. Like many, I
have witnessed the problems of allelopathic chemicals in a closed
system. I first noticed these in large Eunicia sp. and lastly, in a
colony of large hairy mushrooms. The remarkable fact is that
many corals proved more or less adaptable to these chemicals, even
within the same species!
I have since moved these soft corals but am still noticing some loss of
heads in some Euphyllia species, most notably, hammer corals. I'm sure
that some chemicals remain in the system despite water changes,
skimming, and carbon (which doesn't remove much of these toxins IMO).
<Yes and yes>
Moving the corals to the far side of the tank, away from where the
mushrooms were, helps the problem. I'm baffled because it seems as
though the hairy mushrooms are still in the tank, noticing that the loss
of heads is always on the left side of the corals (the mushrooms were on
the left side of the tank)!
I do have a Rose bubble-tip anemone that resides on this side
(unaffected by the toxins I might add). It is a 8" specimen and I have
had many of these in the past with little evidence of allelopathy.
My question is, are bubble-tips known to produce toxins like
some soft corals?
<Wild Entacmaeas more than domestic, cultured; and less than other large
Pacific Anemone species>
It would explain why the left side of some LPS corals in the tank and
closing up and dying.
I might also add that interestingly, no SPS corals seem to be affected.
Thanks so much!!Joe
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Thank you again for the great service that you provide! Much appreciated!!
Just a question today about Frogspawn corals.
<Oh! Am writing a pc. about Euphyllids presently. Go ahead>
I have had several reefs over the years and have always been a fan of the
Euphyllias. I've had great growth with Hammer and Torch coral but very dismal
results with Frogspawns. After being placed in the tank, they always show nice
expansion for 4-6 weeks, then within a couple off weeks, are completely closed.
<Interesting. E. glabrescens is "a loser" allelopathically to many other common
Cnidarians.... Mushrooms of sorts, Zoanthids in general, some other
Scleractinians; including members of their own family>
I've always thought that these were basically the same as Hammers and Torches,
due to the very similar skeleton but now am wondering. I would assume that they
are reacting to some allelopathic chemicals from other corals but its strange
that this has happened in about 4 different tanks of mine.
<Depends; on what is in these other tanks>
I am currently having nice growth in my 155g in-wall with a mix of softies and
LPS and have experienced the exact same phenomena. I have a very nice colony of
9 giant fuzzy mushrooms
which I suspect are producing a good amount of allelopathic compounds.
These could very well make the Frogspawns close up, however I have a Torch that
is a few inches from the mushrooms and is totally expanded and seems perfectly
<Torches are more "winners" on the sliding Allelo scale. Sort of like Hyenas vs.
domestic dogs in the same Canid family>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
yellow mesh starfish; Euphyllia pred. follow-up
i think i have found who has been eating my hammer head and frogspawn.. i can be
wrong but i think not. can you confirm my suspicions?. it looks like a piece of
hammer head coral dangling from the starfish.
<Don't see references pointing to Nardoa novaecaledoniae feeding on corals in
the literature though.
Re: yellow mesh starfish 8/7/15
i was told they are reef safe but this shows different. i am going to isolate
him and see what happens. thanks for the quick response. i truly appreciate it
also your knowledge.
<Thank you for sharing. BobF>
Cyano bacterium... as a poss. factor in corals doing poorly
Just finished reviewing the exhaustive FAQ for the day and did not see my issue
discussed. Poor coral growth. 88 gal with 25 gal refugium, tank is 28 in
38 across reef tank light bank 3 T5 bulbs coral sun Actinic 420 and 3 ocean sun
<Do you have access to a PAR or PUR meter? Maybe check w/ your LFS, clubs
thereabouts re borrowing>
Have tried 5hrs -9 hrs of light a day. The tank is built in and is exposed on
both front and back, no direct sun but lots of
light most days. Water temp 80.4, sp generally 1.024-25, pH 8.25, KH 108, Ca 410
relatively low phosphate and nitrate. Lots of live rock, feed reef energy A&B
every other night. The problem is that every coral I put in the tank turns brown
or brownish, I like mushrooms and have purchased green, orange, blue but within
weeks they all turn brownish. Have enormous growing Frogspawn
<Ahh; this Euphyllia is one factor.... Read here:
but is brownish green.
Second problem, I started doing frequent water changes to control my hairy algae
and it has been very helpful, but I have developed a Cyano bacterium problem
that the local store said was due to too frequent water changes!
<Mmm; other factors really.... DO the reading re BGA, its control on WWM...
easy enough to sort out>
He recommended Red Slime away "safe for inverts, corals fish.
<Can be of use; but... the reading>
Well now I still have red slim but lost an anemone, most of my snails, crabs and
a gorgeous large Royal Gramma and a lovely Midas blue eyed blenny all of which
seemed to be doing well prior to treatment. I am approaching true frustration.
Please impart some wisdom and help correct this situation.
<Do you need help using the search tool, indices? Your
answers are all archived; well, speculations and further adventures more like.
Do the reading and write back w/ more specific concerns. Bob
Re: Cyano bacterium 4/30/15
I have found the appropriate topics and read the comments. I will seriously
try and reduce the feeding.
<Mmm; and consider competition, perhaps predation, nutrient export
Of course it is difficult to know how much is enough, but generally none is
falling to the sand or going in the filter
and the fish actively eat as much as they can before it is all gone.
<What foods do you utilize? Am a giant fan nowayears of nutritious pelleted
formats (Spectrum, Hikari lines are faves); not so much frozen mashes,
Therefore, I do not believe that there severe is overfeeding but It is possible.
My light set up was done by the company that installed my system so I believe it
is adequate, just hope not too much. Don't want to "burn" the corals. I will
remove the Frogs spawn if that is what you suggest.
I gather from my reading that you may feel the frogspawn is the cause for none
of the other corals maintaining coral?
<Is one large possibility... but more influences here are thus far hidden (not
disclosed by our conv., sharing)>
That in effect it is attacking them. My issue is then why is the frogspawn so
<Warfare... Allelopathy... goes both ways... a powerful lesson on many levels>
Thanks for your guidance.
<Oh! Glad to share Doc. BobF>
Re: Cyano bacterium 4/30/15
One last question. Can I place the frogspawn in my refugium or will it release
chemicals into the water that will still act or turning the other corals and
<It will release said chemicals; mal-affecting other Cnidarians and possibly
more; but won't mesenterially/filament-wise reach out as much>
FYI I exclusively feed frozen mysis(omega-1) and a Spirulina type frozen from
Hikari with weekly dried seaweed on a clip
remove after 15-30min anything remaining on clip.
<Again; I'd switch to a pelleted as base, use others ancillarily>
Since I have your attention, do you have an opinion on removing dead/dying
snails or their empty shells?
<Use MUCH less snails period. See my opinion/input on WWM re. Do you need a
short lesson on how to use the site? See EricR's treatment on where you find to
write us. B>
Bubble Coral near Hammer Coral
Thank you everyone at WWW for all your hard work.
I have a Bubble Coral, and a Hammer that have both grown, and as a
result are getting close to each other. I am wondering if they
will live happily near each other, or is one or both going to die.
<They may well fight physically... I'd keep a few to several inches
between these members of the family Euphylliidae>
I am pretty sure that Hammers and Torch corals can live near one another,
but not sure about Bubbles and Hammers
<Mmm, they do not... I happen to be out diving in S. Leyte in the P.I.
currently... see both most dives... never adjacent>
Thanks so much for your thoughts. Cheers Jeff
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>
Torch Coral (aggression/placement) –
Quick and simple question today. Do Torch corals (Euphyllia
glabrescens) sting all types of corals if placed nearby?
<<For the most part, yes…but a few exceptions in my
If not, what types of corals are acceptable to place near the torches
<<About the only thing in my experience, that Euphylliids seem to
tolerate…are other Euphylliids. I have in my own system, and
have seen in others, Torch, Frogspawn, and Hammer corals kept in quite
close proximity seemingly without incident/any overt aggression
(sweepers). Cheers, EricR>>
Euphyllia and Duncanopsammia
First, my Duncan coral has developed some bulges around
its base. They appear to have tentacles and a mouth. I believe they are
more Duncan polyps.
<Let's hope so>
I have only had this coral for about two months though, would
this be a sign that something is wrong or right?
I think it is a good sign, but I heard that Anemones will split
sometimes before death.
<Yes... a bit different proposition... as they can move, "get
away"; not so Scleractinians>
I have been feeding it. Next, I have a beautiful Torch coral which has
doubled in size.
The problem is that I also have a Bubble Coral. The Bubble Coral has
decreased by almost half. I think it is losing to chemical warfare.
I was thinking about moving it to a small tank which is only about
twelve inches high. It would be under NO lights. I know that they feed
more than photosynthesize, but I don't want to kill it by keeping
it where it is or moving it to an unsuitable environment. Should I
donate it? Something?
Have a wonderful week!
<I would definitely be moving it somewhere else in any case. Bob
24 gallon Aquapod with LPS and T5 lighting. I
have a light green Frogspawn that until recently
looked very compact almost like broccoli.
I have it about a year. The Acan has been next to it for
a few months.
A week or two after I took this picture it sent out some sweepers
and zapped a few heads of the Acan on the right.
<No pic attached>
I moved the Acan away
<Mmm, not enough space here to move it away>
and that space is empty. Now the sweepers are getting longer,
about 4 inches, and soon they may reach the brain
Any way to calm this guy down besides removing everything.
<Not really, no. Best to remove it, place in a larger
Sam, did find the pic. B
Left to right: Euphyllia, Acan, Trachy
Re: Sick zoos --
Thanks for getting back to me. See my answers below...
<Mmm, what is immediately above this Zoanthid
***Ricordea mushrooms and another colony of zoos... the
other zoos where added two weeks ago, but are easily 3
inches away. The Ric's are about 4inches away
<<Uhh... I see what is almost assuredly the issue in
your system pic you sent along... have cropped the area...
to the upper right there appears to be a healthy Euphylliid
of some species. It is almost doubtless sending out
mesenterial filaments, stinging the Zoanthid>
It appears that there
is some Cyanobacterial growth to the right...
***I am not certain that is Cyano? I have had Cyano before
but it looked a lot "softer" than this stuff.
This red stuff is quite hard. (I am assuming you are
referring to the red stuff on the bit of white pipe behind
the sick Zoos). I feed heavily, but skim aggressively and
my po4 is never over 0.03 (I test weekly with a Hanna
digital tester)... but obviously you would know this better
than I... so maybe it is Cyano.
<Easy to scrape, take a look under a 'scope... or
just feel... is it slimy?>
Are any other organisms in this system showing overt signs
***Actually just below the Zoos is a clam that is slowly
recovering from a rough time. It was previously getting too
much light ( at least I think that was the issue),
<I think it too was getting stung>
so I moved it to this location just below the sick
(3 weeks ago maybe?). I also have an SPS on the other side
of the tank that browned out last week (I got too close to
him with Joes Juice trying to get Aiptasia I think). I have
stopped using this and bought some peppermint shrimp. I
should note that I only used Joes Juice in that one spot on
the other side of the tank.
What other stinging-celled life is around this area?
***I have torch coral that is probably within 4 inches.
<<Ahh! This is IT>
It actually has grown into another colony of Zoos, and they
seem to not bother each other too much. Is it possible a
torch would touch one group of Zoos and have little effect,
and then sting another group of zoos that is inches away
and do so much damage?
I never actually considered this... I have attached a tank
shot so you can get an idea of the spacing.
What sort of (solid) supplementation do you do?
***The only regular form of supplementation I use is a
calcium reactor. In the last month my co2 controller
stopped working for a few days and I had to use reef
builder to get the ALK back up, but that was it. It was
added to the sump over a few days and has since
Is it placed directly in the tank?
Thanks for your time Bob.
<Welcome Jas... I know it's a pain, but I'd be
moving either the torch (with at least six inches, better a
foot) or Zoanthid colony apart. BobF>
|Re: Sick zoos
Thanks so much Bob. I'll adjust accordingly. If I could
please ask just one follow up question? To the right of the
torch coral, you see all the green Zoos that have grown
directly into the Torch coral? They seem totally
<Yes and yes>
So my question is, what makes this type of Zoos so tolerant,
and the sick Zoos being so affected and showing so much
stress after all this time? (almost overnight).
<Mmm, don't know, but I'll speculate that there is
some sort of chemical communication and accommodation that
occurs... but on what basis?>
The reason I ask is that I really like how the two have grown
into each other, but of course I don't want to have stuff
<Do try our new search tool (thanks Darrel) with this
string: +Zoanthid and +Euphyllia compatibility
Read the cached views. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick zoos -- 06/17/11
Will do. Thanks Bob
Re: [Follow Up] Question about odd male Lyretail
Anthias behavior. 6/4/2011
(and new questions!)
Dear Bob and Colleagues,
A few updates, and a couple questions:
Remarkably, the odd couple Anthias (two males and a female; see below)
are living together harmoniously in our 225-gallon mixed reef, after a
brief touch-and-go period in which the newly transformed male was very
aggressive to the original male (we call him the "fabulous
male"...). Perhaps more remarkably, the original male is showing
signs of reversion to a female, both behaviorally and physiologically
(much more orange and less red than the new male, body size similar to
or even smaller than the remaining female, purple eye rim and purple
streak below the eye have returned).
I've taken pictures throughout the process in case this putative
gender reversion may be not previously documented among P. squamipinnis
before, and if you are interested I'll organize them and send them
<This is a known quality. I.e., Anthiines are capable of sexual
The male mandarin (the female never re-emerged and is presumed
deceased) has fattened up nicely, and the tank's pod and pod-like
populations have reestablished themselves.
On to the questions...
I'm aware of the dangers of allelopathy and indeed
I've witnessed firsthand a Sinularia damage half of my reef before
I identified the culprit and removed it. On the bright side, it was a
real wake up call to research, research, research before buying
anything (I realize I'm preaching to the preacher on this
<To some extent>
My first questions relate to a large-ish (~7" long skeleton), and
beloved, frogspawn that is occupying precious real
estate in the tank. The DMZ around the frogspawn is large enough that
even when fully expanded, it does not touch any other corals. I've
read about Euphyllia sweeper tentacles but I confess that among the
torch, frogspawn, and hammer in the tank now, I've yet to see any
sweepers that are much longer than their normal tentacles. (In
contrast, I've seen Goniopora, trumpet, and Goniastrea sweepers
1) Do frogspawn, torch, and hammer coral sweeper tentacles look any
different than their regular tentacles, only longer?
<Look like consistently thin, translucent flexible from the
The trumpet and Goniastrea sweepers, for example, are glass-like, thin,
and, well... mean looking :) Are these three Euphyllia corals'
sweepers simply longer versions of their normal tentacles?
2) Do these three Euphyllia release significant allelopathic
Or does their legendary aggressiveness really only derive from
physically touching other corals?
I have a giant palm tree coral (Clavularia sp.) parked immediately
downstream of the frogspawn that appears to be in perfect health.
However, a wild-caught Acropora also placed close and downstream of the
frogspawn (but far enough away to avoid physical contact) did not
survive. It could be of course that this Acropora specimen simply did
not do well in captivity, as some wild-caught specimens tend to do, but
I've wondered if the frogspawn might have released some terpenes or
other natural products that could have contributed to the Acro's
Thank you once again!
War declared, Scler. incomp. 1/26/11
I have a Candycane (brown with blue centers) with about 30 heads and it
is at least 3 years in my tank. Next to it are some blue and grey
colored ones that have been there over a year. I used to have a
Frogspawn to its left but recently replaced it with a Hammer.
<How introduced? These corals, genera, families don't "play
well together" unless slowly acclimated to each other>
Lately I noticed some head dying on my blue and grey Candycanes. It
just looked like something stripped the flesh off the head. The past
few morning I have noticed some long sweeper tentacles on the brown
with blue Candycane. Are they the culprit. And why after all this time
would they declare war.
<Very likely so. Do read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/corlcompfaqs.htm
and.... : http://wetwebmedia.com/faviidcompfaqs.htm
and the linked files above each... Do you have an understanding here?
Six Line Wrasse Eating Frogspawn? 9/21/10
<Hello Ivan and Carolyne>
We seem to have a problem that we can't find a solution anywhere!
We looked all over your website and the interwebs, but nothing so far!
Hope you could help. We have in our 65G tank a Six-Line Wrasse.
Recently, we decided to start introducing some corals to the tank. The
system has now a small Torch Coral, a Candy Cane frag, a small Brain
and a "medium-large" Frogspawn. We bought the Frogspawn last
weekend, and since then, it seems to have lost some feathers to the
benefit of the Wrasse. We saw him picking at the coral today and
seemingly getting fat! We isolated the coral, but we're not very
willing to keep it that way forever! Do you have a suggestion (other
than renaming him Steevie Coral Poker from Steevie Wonder), and have
you ever heard of a Lined Wrasse eating a coral??
<Is more likely that the Six Line Wrasse is searching amongst the
coral for live foods in the form
of small crustaceans (pods), snails, and worms. It's picking may be
causing the damage to your coral, but very unlikely is actually eating
Once the food supply residing in the coral is gone, this eating
behavior should subside. I might further add that these guys tend to
eat as much as they can, as often as they can. >
Thanks a lot for you help!!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Ivan and Carolyne
PS: He hasn't eaten ANY of the other corals and isn't an
aggressive fella overall. not attacking shrimps or anything.
Re Coral Placement, Euphyllia comp. 5/18/10 -
Thank you James for the link.
But you did not answer the question as to whether different frog spawns
need space in between or not.
<The link provided that information. I read "They form small
colonies in waters that are turbid, yet gentle, and enjoy indirect
bright light." Colony would mean living together, and as long as
they are the same Euphyllia species, you should be OK They are well
capable of killing other corals so care must be taken here as to
I have more problems because I bought some things on line and they
turned out to be much larger than
described and I just have a 24 gallon. So I have to decide if I will
get rid of some of my old corals or sell off the new ones.
I will send pictures when I get a chance. But my initial problem is the
size. They were sold as Ultra Green Crater Red Wellsophyllia Brain and
Purple Worm Wellsophyllia Brain. Size of each was stated at about 2-3
inches. Well, maybe when closed but when open the worm one is about 5
inches and the open brain about 6. I am having a difficult time finding
space for them. I have T5 lighting. So is tank size any issue for
keeping these healthy.
<You may have a problem here as these corals must be placed on a
fine sand band. They tend to puff up their polyp to shift itself toward
light/water flow desired.
You are pretty limited to what you can do in a 24 gallon
They are really very nice looking and that is an understatement.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
05/02/10 Clam and Hammer Coral comp.
I introduced a hammer coral into my reef tank last week. Coral doing
great, but my maxima seems bothered now.
He has gone from upright on his perch to leaning sideways as of this
AM...the side closest to hammer coral is what he is trying to move
It's not as if he is right next to coral...hammer is at bottom, he
is at top on rocks...at least 8-10 inches of space between them....but
he definitely seems irritated...could the hammer's chemicals
flowing thru the water be upsetting him?
<Yes, and this coral has been reported to have very long sweeper
Can I wait until tomorrow to take the coral back to LFS?
<Probably yes, but is the Clam 'downstream' of the
Euphyllia? If so, then switching these so that the sweepers are pushed
in the other direction might do the trick>
If I have to choose, I choose the clam!!
<Move one of these and observe>
Finally, what corals will not bother my clam? I have Zoanthid,
Mushroom, Star Polyps, etc. but wanted something a little more
<Mmm, try something like a Montipora, an excellent, non-aggressive
intermediate coral, that is usually ok with what you have
I did read up on this stuff, I do ask lots of questions...but these
spur of the moment situations sometimes throw me for a loop...thanks
for your time!!
<No problem Megan>
Re: 05/02/10 Clam and Hammer Coral 2/9/10
Thanks so much for the reply...
Yep clammy was down current from hammer...and it is a small
tank...noticed the hammer was affecting the other corals too...so I
removed the hammer and took it back to LFS.
<Ok, probably the best move overall>
If it lives, I get my $$$ back...and I will buy something more
compatible with the xenia, mushrooms, Zoanthids & clam. I have your
suggestion, plus bought a book of corals so I can ID them when I am at
the LFS...just in case anyone gives me bad info or I am tempted to buy
something again based on looks alone.
<Mmmm, the less different types you have, the better your present
population will do.... I would hold off on buying anything for
On an unrelated note, clam has never really attached so far, he does
still move around in general...but I keep putting him back on the
rocks....which is the best light. I understand that this is not so bad
for a young clam, to jump around, if he otherwise appears healthy. I
keep hoping that one day he'll finally settle down...but for now it
not bother me the way it used to!
<Hmmm, I do not know too much about clams I am sorry to say. Try
05/02/10 Euphyllia Compatibility mostly
I have a questions about my Euphyllia glabrescens "Torch
For the last 6 months it looked fine, clown fish even stated using it
as a host. Lately its tentacles have become very short and are simply
staying retracted. No other problems with any of my corals. I just
can't seem to figure out what the problem is.
<Mmm, Clowns can irritate corals such as this if their advances are
Water chemistry has been a little off, <? This> but nothing
<Any numbers here? After a statement like this surely you expected
me to ask such a question?>
I have over 15 other different corals both leather, LPS, anemones
None of which are having any problems. I simply cannot figure out what
Please help if you would like photos I can send. Thanks for your help
<You have at least three possible causes that I have identified
here, could be one or a combination of these...>
Coral Compatibility/Allelopathy 1/14/10
Hello I have a question. I have lots of Zoanthids in my tank, and
recently purchased a Bubble Coral. Will they be okay if they touch each
<Euphylliids, of which the Bubble Coral is a member, possess very
expansive bodies and stinging tentacles which can/will extend to other
sessile invertebrates placed near them. And, there is a good chance of
negative chemical interaction with Soft Corals. I would leave at least
six inches of space between this coral and any other corals including
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
LTA attacking Torch Coral? Usual lack of reading re
Hi, the other day my LTA floated itself around the tank,
<Mmm, not good>
and ended up interlocking tentacles with my torch coral.
since then, the anemone has seemed to settle down to one suitable spot.
at first it looked like the anemone got the worst of it, but now seems
just fine (even growing), but the portion of the torch coral that
tangled with the LTA is definitely dying off. should I be worried about
the other sections of torch coral in the colony, or will they be okay
as long as they aren't bothered by the anemone? Thanks, Jay
<Not a good idea to mix Actinarians... as you can/could read on WWM.
Too likely this situation will repeat in future. Both organisms have a
great capacity at regeneration. See WWM re. Bob Fenner>
Re: LTA attacking Torch Coral? 1/7/10
Cool, I actually didn't find your website until I did a search on
Electric Flame Scallops (very helpful). lets just say the malevolence
of my LFS is apparent to me now.
my wife is very attached to the LTA, so would it be terribly inhumane
if I were to contain it under some sort of clear plastic basket or
inside a hang-on quarantine box?
<Wouldn't work in any case... Perhaps her own new
oh as it seems the norm here this is what I'm running. 30 gal
rectangular, 30 lbs of Fiji live rock, tom aquatics rp3 filter/skimmer
(without the foam pad in the intake, it was holding to much decaying
material in the tank),
Eheim 120v heater, Hydor Koralia 2 circulator, 24" Coralife t5 vho
actinic/10,000 bulbs less than a month old, running a simple blue LED
for moon lighting. water temp stays between 78-80 degrees. ph 8.4, ammo
0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, kH is a 12, calcium stays a little low at 380
0 phosphates. livestock is 1 torch coral, 1 green digitate Acropora,
Christmas tree worm rock (arrived with glass anemone, waiting for
Aiptasia-x in the mail), one long tentacle anemone, 1 clownfish, 1
electric flame scallop that I hope now to give the most compassionate
existence to that I can (as the LFS said it wouldn't take it back
unless it died within the two weeks I bought it, and I know nobody else
to give it a better home), 7 electric blue hermit crabs, 4 turbo snails
(two are VERY large), and a neat little conch that hitched a ride on
the live rock. it might be a little apparent that I put a lot of trust
in my LFS prior to finding this site.
I've only been doing this for 2 months, 3 if you count the month I
let the tank sit with just live rock to cycle, so I wont let it get me
down. thank for the help, Jay
<A pleasure to share with you Jay. Bob Fenner>
Bubble coral with blue legged hermit crab in its mouth
Hello....yep..I see the legs hanging out of the mouth. It has been like
this all day and don't know whether I should try to remove it with
tweezers or something. Advise please?
Thanks in advance.
<Oh! My sis's name... sitting right next to me currently.
I'd leave this meal where it is. Bob Fenner>
bubble coral quandary... Allelopathy; the low
Euphylliid out 9/9/09
Hey guys haven't had to write in a while but ill give you the specs
75 gallon tank with a 30 gallon sump with refugium feather and grape
Caulerpa. Phosban reactor, uv sterilizer 2 protein skimmers ( a Jebo
and a CPR) Two 250 watt halides four 65 watt actinics, 14k bulbs. 3
inch sand bed and about 125 lbs of live rock. livestock is: clove
polyps, wellsi brain, frogspawn, torch, star polyp, various mushrooms,
a huge toadstool leather, cabbage leather, finger leather, a bunch of
xenia, and a Fungia plate coral. All corals are doing great, however
every time i try to put a bubble coral in it dies within 3 weeks.
<Umm, yes... very likely to keep on doing so if added to the mix you
Allelopathy... there are a few "things" you might do to
improve the chances...>
All levels are fine I've tried less water flow, I've tried more
water flow, less light I've tried more light, placement never
works. I've been through two now and i don't want to kill
another one. What could be causing this and why. Oh, fish wise i have a
blue jaw trigger, a Sailfin tang, a flame angel, a true percula clown,
lawnmower blenny, purple Dottyback, and a juvenile powder blue tang ( i
know needs a bigger system). any ideas would be great. Thanks,
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Can clowns harm coral? Clown and Coral Compatibility
Need more information 8/30/2009
<Hi Gene, there are a few ladies on the Crew as well.>
I have a pair of clown fish that have hosted in two different corals
(hammer coral and Aussie torch coral) - both have died. My other corals
(soft) still seem healthy. The tank is a 125g with LR and is about 18
<Hmm... how much light?>
I'm not sure if there's a fungus in the tank or if these guys
are simply irritating the corals too much.
<It is a distinct probability.>
I'm really grasping for answers.
I change about 25g of water every other week using Reef Crystals mix.
My pH is steady between 8.3 and 8.4 (I'm using a very slow drip
spaced out at night every 2 hours). My Ca usually runs around 400.
Other param.s appear in line with a slight elevation in phosphate
<Again, how much and what kind of light?>
Thanks for your input and any advice you can offer.
<Assuming you have adequate light for the corals, I would say yes,
it is likely that the clowns irritated the corals to death. Gave a read
Sick clown! Can't ID problem! --
I looked around Google, and your site and many diseases look the
Seems that most sicknesses show in some form of white growth on a
fish, making it difficult to diagnose.
So, here's my problem. A few days ago I introduced a pair of
misbar black ocellaris clowns, they were in great health and came
from a local reefer that I know takes great care of his animals
and has been in the hobby for years.
These are my first marine fish, and my tank has been running for
about 5 months with soft corals, LPS and inverts. I have a great
pod population, tons of brittle starts, snails that breed,
coralline, all my corals are reproducing, etc - all signs of a
perfectly healthy and thriving tank.
After 2 days in the tank, all was well, then I did a water
change. This morning as I'm leaving for work I find that one
of them (the smaller one) has one side completely covered in a
white fuzzy coat. It's not located
anywhere specific like gills, eyes, etc, it's over the entire
body on one side. The poor guy seems to have problems move his
pectoral fin on that side as well.
The other fish is perfectly healthy. I've seen something
similar in my Mbuna tank, once when it was cycling (didn't do
a fishless cycle) and again later on when I think the fish was
stressed from transport. Side note - don't transport fish in
a backpack on a motorcycle, seemed like a good idea at the time -
"Hey, lets take a ride to that great Cichlid place and pick
up some zebras on this beautiful day!". Just like in the FW
tank, this is only effecting the one fish.
So my experience with this in FW is that the fish is doomed, will
be dead in a day or two. I had no time to do anything because I
was running late for work, so on my lunch break I will be heading
home to start mixing a fresh batch of water to place him in with
a handful of live rock (for filtering) and a spare pump to try
and observe/treat him. My best guess is that before I had these
guys I was only spot feeding my LPS (this is a 24g nano reef btw)
and now with these guys there's a daily feeding of about one
full cube of mysis/krill/whatever (same amount I used to feed the
corals) that maybe I pushed the tank into a cycle by overfeeding
the tank, and this stressed the fish. I'm going to be doing
some parameter testing when I go home to check, can't figure
any other stress that's been introduced to these guys, and
they've seemed happy and active for the last few days.
<Mmmm... a few possibilities>
I also used Aiptasia-X last night (before my water change) now
that I think of it and I've heard of that causing problems in
fish before, even though Red Sea I don't think has ever said
<I have read quite a bit re this product. I consider that
it's involvement here is negligible>
Only other thing that MIGHT have caused stress is that the tank
dropped 4 degrees overnight from 78 to 74 - this is a whole other
issue since my heater was set to 76 and the tank was stable at
74, even though the heater was hot (but the little red light
wasn't on). But I don't think a 4 degree drop over night
is that severe and/or worse than what would be seen in a natural
Any help would be appreciated. I'll hopefully have this fish
quarantined by tonight and ready to be treated. Time to start
making up spare water I suppose. I'll try to follow up with a
picture if I can get one.
<The larger possibilities are a "sting" from a
Cnidarian/LPS, and a heater burn... Please send well-resolved
pix. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick clown! Can't ID problem! --
Bob, thanks for the response. I have a decent picture and an
update with new symptoms and status. I will attach a pic to this
email so you can get it at full resolution I apologize if
it's a bit large and clutters what I'm sure is an already
I did some tests and got no ammonia, no nitrites, and 0-5
nitrates, so I think we can eliminate the possibility of
mini-cycle induced stress.
<The photo is definitive... am quite sure this animal was
stung... and quite likely the culprit is in the same pic... the
Euphyllia in the background...>
When I got a better look at the fish earlier this afternoon, I
noticed it had white feces hanging out of it. It wasn't as a
string, it was more like a small ball, with a tiny thread
attached to another ball that seemed to be going nowhere, as well
as a white ball floating around in the water column that looked
identical. I noticed the same thing late last night, so I started
guessing that somehow it got a block in it's intestinal
track, causing the swelling and leading to whatever is being
shown outward. As of this evening, that feces is gone, and
it's swimming around as if nothing is wrong.
<This fish may well heal of its own... even make friends with
It's left side (same side shown in pic) is still swollen, but
I want to say not nearly as bad. And that white stuff looks like
it's falling off now, for example the pic was taken at noon
today, now at 6:40pm the white stuff is gone from the pectoral
fin. The best I can describe it's appearance is like dead
<This is so>
Yesterday was the first day I fed something other than mysis. I
fed NLS marine pellets and a cube out of a "Saltwater
Multi-Pack" by San Francisco Bay Brand pack that was a mix
of brine, krill, mysis, algaes, vitamin supplements, etc.
I also adjusted my heater to be sure it would stablize the water
at a higher temp, so now the water is sitting stable at 78.5.
The two clowns are now hanging out with each other and being very
active, but this one still favors the one side when using the
pectoral fins. My current plan is a quarantine and treatment for
parasites, ich, and fungus using Ich Attack and Jungle Labs
Parasite Clear tablets.
Would you think I could be better off just leaving the fish be in
the display since she's acting normal?
The only other fish is the other clown, and it shows no signs of
anything. I do understand it could have something lurking and
just have no signs *yet *but my gut tells me that it is fine and
in such a small system would have caught whatever this is
<Nothing lurking... not parasitic... a chemical/physical
I'm going to forgo feeding for today just in case something I
fed led to this and to allow time for further digestion if a
blockage was the problem. I'll keep a close eye on things
Family Feud... Caryophylliid incomp.
Hello!? Sorry about all the question marks, for some peculiar reason my
e-mail system tends to place them randomly.? Anyway, I have a JBJ 24
gallon nano.? It has 32.5# live rock (Vanuatu, Fiji, Tonga) and 40# of
pink Fiji sand.? The system is a little over a month old and only has a
pearly jaw. I do about 10% weekly water changes with premixed R/O
saltwater.? I do keep a Polyfilter in chamber 1.? I had the lid
recently upgraded with a 3rd 36w watt bulb, bringing the total wattage
to 108w.? SG 1.0255, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 10 ppm, pH 8.2?
There is a Koralia 1 power head in the display and a maxi 1200 for the
My calcium was 500+ my last test...
<... too high...>
I was dosing 3.75 ml of 2 part b-ionic the last 4 days (recommended for
a 15 gallon volume).? I immediately performed a water change and will
resume 2.5 ml (recommendation for a 10 gallon volume) in a few days and
<I wouldn't add any>
I knew something was odd when brown algae and brown hair algae started
sprouting here and there.
I did have a temperature variance problem but that was resolved by a
cheap $7 fan blowing on my lid.? I was skeptical of the advice but it
Temperature only goes from 79 to 81 now versus the 79 to 84ish!?
I'm still shocked at how well that worked out, thanks for the
I usually read the Coralife digital thermometer, but I have the glass
one in the tank as well just to make sure it's in check as
My real question is to clarify something.? I was thinking mostly
stocking one particular family of coral in my tank, Caryophylliidae.?
Frogspawn, torch, hammer, elegance, and bubble coral.?
<Mmm, not really a good idea... That Scleractinians/stony corals all
are placed in a/the same family doesn't imply that they are
I'd like to do this to limit corral aggression.? However, when
reading through FAQ's I see that although they are in the same
family, these corals still can fight with each other and cause adverse
reactions if within close proximity??
Correct me because I'm probably wrong, but I thought since they
were in the same family, their aggression between each other would be
<Mmm, no... are fighters amongst each other>
I guess even families have feuds within themselves???
Thank you for your time and helping me stabilize my tank! :)
<BobF, San Diego, CA>
Re: Family Feud, Euphylliid comp. 3/21/08
I hope I'm not being redundant, but is it alright then to have a
branching hammer next to a different colony of wall hammer??
<Mmm, no... not really... there are very large stands of genetically
related populations that live contiguously... but unless you can
My LFS said I could actually have hammers or any same species of corals
for that matter, grow and intertwine together.?
<And close kin>
I was a bit hesitant to take their word for it, but it kind of makes
sense...? Thank you much again!
LPS placement in 24 gallon nano with 108 watts power
Hello! (sorry about all the question marks, cannot figure out why my
e-mail system does that!)
<So... send to yourself, fix, then re-send>
So I'm sticking to my coral stocking plan and getting mostly LPS
<Your system is too small...>
I know I need at least 6" of space between them to avoid them
reaching each other with sweeper tentacles.? I've decided against
the Elegance coral as I've read they are best kept in species
specific tanks.? My LFS is holding a metallic Euphyllia Ancora, a green
with purple tip Euphyllia Paradivisa, a yellow Euphyllia Glabrescens
(from Australia supposedly), and a small green with pink tip Euphyllia
Parancora for me.? I have a couple inches of pink Fiji sand so the
light fixture itself is approximately 14" from the very
bottom.? Lighting is 108 watts of power compact lighting (1 actinic, 2
50/50 bulbs).? I know these are aggressive corals and should not be
near any other coral.? I listed their colors because I know that
sometimes has a bearing on placement.?
Considering my particular tank depth and lighting scheme, would it be
OK to place these corals on the bottom, an inch or so (on live rock)
away from the substrate??
<Could, but again... this shape/area of bottom is too small for long
term success with this family>
Flow there is low to moderate.? I do have a single Dendrophyllia polyp
on top of an arch in the light that eats daily (loves mini mysis by New
Life foods).? I turn off the pumps and feed very carefully, to minimize
food getting lost in the water column.? I'm prepared to do the same
for my LPS.?
Of course, I don't want any of them to lose their
beautiful coloring or suffer because of my poor judgment.? I've
read recommendations to place them low in the tank, but it gave no
indication of what kind of lighting that recommendation was for!?
<Please see Asira.com, CoralIdea.com... perhaps some of the coral
books we suggest>
At the store they are at, they are on the bottom, guessing about
30" from the top of the tank; their MH and T5 actinics are
suspended about a foot and a half above the top of the tank.
Stats as follows:
24 gallon JBJ DX
32.5# Live Rock
40# pink Fiji sand
108 watts compact fluorescent lighting (1 actinic, 2 50/50)
nitrate 10 ppm
Calcium 480 ppm
There is a Koralia 1 power head in the display and a maxi 1200 for the
return pump for flow.
Small piece of poly filter in chamber 1.
Chaetomorpha and live rock rubble in chamber 2.
100w heater in chamber 3.
10% water change weekly (switching to 20% bi-weekly a OK?)
Dose 2 part b-ionic once a day for a 10 gallon volume.
1 pearly jaw (loves Cyclops and the pods in the tank, nothing
1 small serpent banded starfish
1 cleaner shrimp
2 orange Astreas
2 star Astreas
4 Nassarius snails
1 blue knuckled hermit crab
2 blue legged hermit crab.?
Thank you again for your time! :)
<I feel "bad" in encouraging, or perhaps better put, not
discouraging, you going ahead here... You could do fine for months with
starting with small specimens (thumb-size let's say), having them
grow up together, being careful re filtrant use, maintenance-wise...
but one day you will likely find real troubles with this stocking
plan... Is there some way you can fit in a much larger system Danny?
Compatibility don't want any troubles...
My names Ben from Sydney in Australia. I have a 120 gal reef tank.
Which is approx 17 months olds. I have 8 x54 watt T5 lights above my
tank and two actinic T8s. large octopus skimmer in my sump \ refugium
and a deep sand bed.
Recently I lost my 2 clams and my Acropora due to a very very hot
summer here. Tank got up to 34! Very hot. I was shattered. Fish all
survived though and seemed to relish the heat.
I rectified the situation and bought my self a chiller. Now have
running at a perfect 26.
I decided to start restocking corals.
Recently I added two catyphllias to my system both placed on sand
<Mmm, Elegance corals sometimes don't get along>
I am very happy with them and the polyp extension is to be seen to be
believed. (will send some pics soon).
I think I'm very lucky as most guys in Sydney I know talk of
Sydney's catyphyllias as being bullet proof. I guess we are lucky
and get our corals from aussie waters only. Also I've herd online
that Americans seek our catyphyllias as they are much hardier.
<They are indeed>
Anyway my question is this. Should I? Or can I keep other Euphyllia
species such as hammer corals in the same tank? Well away from my cats.
Or am I asking for trouble?
<Too likely the last... unless these other Euphylliids can be placed
on rock, away from the Catalaphyllias>
I don't mind other wise I will just be species specific and keeps
cats on my sand bed and nothing else.
Also I would like to keep some sps up top on my live rock well away
from the cats under my t5s.
<This you should be able to do>
Do u reckon the sps would be affected? I run carbon 24\7.
<I think you'll be okay>
Just to add to it I have a pair of maroon clowns. 1 Zebrasoma
flavescens 1 Paracanthus hepatatus 1 Acanthurus japonicus 1 horn
Fish are thriving and eat like pigs. Also no aggression which I'm
very happy about. I just want my corals not to kill each other also. Im
not going to stock anything more fish as there full.
Just focusing on the coral for now. I don't want my tank to be
packed with corals just a nice mix. The two cats are awesome and
I'm devoted to them.
I thought that a few LPSs like my cats and maybe a hammer and a
With some sps up top would be really nice. But I don't wanna push
I drip Kalk also and coralline is really taking off. other then the
Kalk drip for top off I just do small weekly 10 gal water changes and
Nice and simple. The Kalk I use is builders lime (CHEAP) and its 99.2 %
pure calcium hydroxide. Very happy with it. No ill affects what so
Thanks for your thoughts it really is appreciated.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Gold Rim Tang/Behavior... actually incomp. with
Euphyllia 1/18/09 Hello, hope you can help. Recently bought a
Hammer Coral, it was stunning. I then introduced a Gold Rim Tang and he
has ate most of it. Will it eat the rest of my soft corals? I am
panicking, any advice would be appreciated. <I have never witnessed
a tang eating coral. I have seen tangs picking into the coral if algae
or other food source is present, which will cause the coral to react
and retract. I'm thinking this is what you are seeing. Secondly,
when writing to us, please follow the guidelines listed here.
we are all volunteers with very limited time, it is appreciated if all
proper nouns, and "I's" are capitalized along with use of
proper punctuation. We just do not have the time to edit these, and in
doing so, takes our time away to answer queries from others. Thank you.
James (Salty Dog)>
Health of frogspawn coral, allelopathy w/
Zoanthid Hi, crew <Abdul> I am just worried about
what is happening to my frogspawn coral. It seems like passing
away. <I see this in your pix> It's in my aquarium from
last four months and was very fine/full every day. Suddenly from
last three weeks it is not opening fully and some times looks
like if it is melting. I am attaching two pics for your
reference. One is old and one is latest. Kindly advice since all
water parameters are same as day first when it was introduced.
Regards, Abdul Hadi Dar <I notice that there is a large
Zoanthid colony immediately above this Euphyllia... w/o any other
data, I am concerned that this is a case of allelopathy twixt
these. Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/zoanthidcompfaqs.htm
and: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and the linked files
above... You need to at least separate these two... likely remove
one to another system. Bob Fenner>
LPS budding 8/18/08 Hello Crew <Howdy>
I trawled through the encyclopaedic info on your site, but find nothing
specific to this query below. My grape coral <Plerogyra... a
Euphylliid> appears to be putting out fluorescent buds. This happens
every 3 months or so, and most often the buds just float off to be
picked up in the filtration or swept into the live rock etc. <Mmm,
yes> Occasionally what happens is the buds land up in the 2 large
hairy mushrooms in the vicinity (about 4" inches away) and this
appears to cause them a fair degree of stress. <Oh yes> They
contract to about an 8th of full extension, and appear to remain so
until the bud is expelled. While this is happening the parent LPS also
appears to be in a slightly shrunken state for some reason. <In a
word: Allelopathy> I also noticed my maroon clown, usually happy in
his Entacmaea quad. go up to the LPS and give it a buffet, dislodging a
couple more of these offending buds. I should note that the LPS is also
reproducing via a couple of new colonies at the base of the
branches....could not understand the clown's contribution there,
though!! <Me neither. Interesting> Any insights would be hugely
appreciated. Best regards Mani <I do think you're witnessing a
sort of asexual reproduction... I would try to remove such buds
ASAPractical once they're about to be released. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and the linked files above. Bob
Re: LPS budding 10/22/08 Hi Mr. Fenner A
privilege to be communicating with you. <Howsit?> Just continuing
the conversation below, I observed something totally bizarre. To
refresh, I mentioned below how the spine-cheeked clown occasionally
went and buffeted the grape/ frogspawn coral, releasing these buds/
polyps, which drifted into the hairy mushroom and irritated it
severely. <Yes... too common a/the case twixt Premnas and their
erstwhile Cnidarian symbionts> Today the clown went a step further.
I actually saw it bite off a polyp - from the same LPS colony - and
release it into the water column, where it drifted off to oblivion.
<Mmmm> (It could not be doing this to defend its BTA, as I placed
a large barrier of rock between the two, and actually moved the
stricken mushroom to another system where it is thriving). No other
invertebrates seem to be affected at this stage. <Is a danger...>
I just found this quite curious, and given its infrequency (so far!)
have decided to observe further without action at this stage. Would you
be able to shed some light on this? <Have noted and recorded
others/similar observations re Maroons... they can be very hard on
other life...> I am just wondering if the clown was the original
cause of the problem, rather than "primary" allelopathy as
originally suspected. <Could well be the real/root cause here. If it
t'were me, mine, I'd separate these two... the Clown,
Euphyllia> Best regards Mani (Auckland, NZ) <And to you,
Too close to call? Scler. incomp., Plerogyra
?#8364;" 07/10/08 Hello all.. I have a Lobophyllia spp.
(white with pink rim) that is showing signs of bleaching and a
few dark spots forming on the white inner section.. I've
scoured the WWM looking at suggestions on the bleaching and all
signs point to feeding and h20 quality. <Mmm, typical...> i
am on top of these tanks to the wwm and have been on top these.
<...?> One other thought, is i have the piece about 6-8
inches away from a green bubble coral, Plerogyra Simplex..
<Ahh!> which is about 8" in diameter. Is it possible
the lobo is too close? <Yes> what is a safe distance to
keep things away from the bubble coral? <A foot or more. Read
re the Compatibility of Euphylliids on WWM:
http://wetwebmedia.com/carycompfaqs.htm and/or the search tool.
Bob Fenner> Peter Baron
|Clownfish Open Mouth
8/26/08 Hello, <Adam> After reading through
the many clownfish disease Q&As, I am still at a loss to
the cause and the solution to the problem I am facing.
<Ok> I currently have a 30 gallon long SW reef. Lit by
4 39w T5HO bulbs, skimmed with a Tunze nano doc 9002, modded
ac110 fuge with Chaeto, water flow from a Vortech mp20, Tunze
Osmolator for top off, use only RO/DI 0ppm water, and I am
also running some Chemi-pure elite and Purigen. My ammonia is
0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, ph 8.2, calcium 400, specific
gravity 1.025, Alk 8, phosphate 0, and temp is 78 degrees. In
terms of livestock, I have a coral beauty, two true Percs, an
emerald crab, a pom pom crab, a porcelain crab, hermits,
Cerith, Nassarius, 1 troches, 1 Mexican turbo, a tuxedo
urchin. I had had the clowns for approximately two weeks
before I noticed the problem. The first week they did not
have a host and slept / played in the corner of my tank. The
second week they found my frogspawn and have been hosted by
it ever since. 3 days ago now I noticed that one of my Percs
could no longer close his mouth (the other was and still
perfectly is fine). I do not think it is genetic because the
onset was quick, and he was not like this before hand. The
first day he did not eat, yesterday he figured out how to eat
with his mouth open. I also feed frozen mysis (which the
clowns do not like), Cyclopeeze (which the clowns do like),
reef Roids (for my Alveopora) and have Selcon for
supplementation. I see no isopods in the mouth of the clown,
and have attached a photo so you can have a look as well.
<I see and agree re this not being genetically derived>
All other evidence I can find of this phenomenon through
Google and through WWM either have the clownfish recovering
in a couple days or eventually not eating and dying, and no
one knows what causes this. Obviously I would really prefer
if I could find the cause and prevent my fish from dying.
Thank you Adam <Is likely from the "meet and
greet" process with the Euphylliid... Will likely cure
itself in time. Bob Fenner> Re: Clownfish Open
Mouth 8/26/08 Today, day 4, it looks like he is
getting movement back in his mouth! I think you are correct
that it was from the frogspawn and hopefully he will fully
recover. Thank you
<Thank you for this update. Excelsior!
Re: too close to call? Scler. incomp., Plerogyra
?#8364;" 07/10/08 Thanks BF! (Remember the kids cartoon
The Blue Falcon.. with Dyno Mutt..?) Dyno Mutt would always get
saved by the Blue Falcon and say "Thanks BF" <Dang!
Missed this series> I had hoped this was the answer and moved
the lobo yesterday .. and did more reading and looking through
the mental note book.. and remembered i was reading on powerheads
and circulation.. and serviced my 2 heads and aligned them with
the proper x pattern.. (back corners aimed in a meet in the
middle) and changed the flow.. the meeting of the currents would
up being right on top of the lobo.. and in a heavy stream..
<Best to adjust here> it was soon after (coincidence ?)
that the lobo started to bleach.. stress? and compounded with the
Plerogyra Simplex growing like crazy. perhaps added the dark
spots. <Maybe> When i got home for work last night. went
straight to the tank and noticed about 1/2 the color came back
already.. and this morning the rims were is proper swelled size
with feeding tentacles extended.. so gave it some breakfast.
Thanks for all the help BF! <Up, up, and away! The other
Hammer coral budding, and more beh.
?#8364;" 06/02/08 Greetings, <Salutations> I have a
hammer coral, and there are several buds on the exposed skeleton. One
bud is currently poking out of the parent tissue. I read that I would
have to remove them from the parent to save them. <Mmm, no... or not
necessarily. If desirous of "speeding up" the process, you
can attempt removal, but otherwise will/do drop off in time of their
own accord> What's the easiest way to do this with minimal risk
to the parent colony? <A sharp metal tool like a chisel...>
Wouldn't removing the buds make the original colony look ugly with
holes everywhere? <Beauty is in the eye, mind...> ? The buds are
very tiny, about 3/16" of an inch in diameter.? Will this little
thing really grow with just adequate light and water flow? <If
conditions, their development is sufficient...> Also, while feeding
my fish, I noticed a fully expanded hammer coral tentacle floating
about in the water.? I siphoned it out and put it in my 10 gallon tank
on a rock to see if it will settle. Is this a bad sign? <Is not a
good sign or behavior... can/does sting other sea life... including
sessile invertebrates, fishes... best to remove> Another thing is
that my hammer doesn't seem to be interested in food. I placed some
mysis on its tentacles, but the coral didn't react. It just let the
mysis float away. Do I need to put food directly on its mouth, or
should I not worry about feeding it? <I would feed it... read on WWM
re: http://wetwebmedia.com/starfdgfaqs.htm Bob
|Euphylliid allelopathy and halide recommendation
8/22/07 Hi, <Hello Tom> I think I might need to remove
some LPS corals, wanted to get your advice. I had a small Frogspawn
and Torch in a 130G SPS-dominated tank that have grown much larger
over the last year or two, and after reading the FAQs, I see these
could be the reason some of the SPS growth seems to have slowed
down. <Yes> I've attached a picture of the section of the
tank with the Euphyllids, and circled some nearby, recently added
SPS frags. The Frogspawn is now about 7" across, and the Torch
is about 8" across. When extended, they now reach to within
3-4" from the closest SPS frags. <Perhaps even closer with
their "sweepers", part. at night> Elsewhere in the
display are larger SPS colonies, some 6"+ in diameter. Several
months ago I removed and traded to a LFS my Hydnophora and
Stylophora colonies because they got too big (10-12")
<Nice> At first I thought the slower growth might be due to
the lighting, which is 2x250W Aqualine 10K mogul halides on PFO
magnetic ballasts. Been using them for years, replacing bulbs every
12 months. The bulbs were changed about 6 months ago, and
that's about the same time I noticed slower SPS growth. So I
also thought maybe I got a weak bulb last time. <Mmm, could be a
factor... there are others> Turnover in the display good at
about 23x, using two Seaswirls and a chiller return. Water is
stable: SPG is 1.026, pH 8.3, Ca 380-400, dKH 9-10, Mg 1250-1300,
Nitrate 0 (always), 20% water changes every 2 weeks. I run an EV180
skimmer, and use a Poly-filter or carbon in the sump. I've
included a picture of the EV180 in action. Has been a good
performer, especially given the small size. <Looks good> Also
have a Chaeto refugium in the sump (added the Chaeto about 9 months
ago) Would you recommend removing these Euphyllids in favor of SPS
growth, or do you think I should be considering something else?
<I would locate all other Cnidarians further away for sure... a
good foot from the fully expanded Euphylliids> Second question
is, should I be looking at a different brand of 250W halide mogul
bulb? <Mmm, no, not IMO> I thought I had decent results with
the Aqualines in the past, but is there a *best* alternative for
maximizing SPS growth and color? Maybe I should be looking at a
different bulb, different ballast, more wattage, or DE bulbs? Any
input & ideas are welcome. Thanks, Tom <Please search for
the marine lighting works of Sanjay Joshi and Dana Riddle for the
later/greater input here. Bob Fenner>
Bubble coral troubles... just growth, normal
behavior ?#8364;" 07/01/07 Hi Crew, <Wendy> I have a few
questions regarding our bubble coral. We have a 60 gal. tank that we
added a small (approximately 3 inch diameter) bubble coral to 4 months
ago. Since then, it has grown to be about 12 inches in diameter!
<Wow!> It is beautiful, and has lots of sweeper tentacles out
most of the time. <Mmmm... do you wonder why? What their function
is?> My concern is that it has now "stretched" almost down
to the floor of the aquarium on one side. The bubbles are still present
and look fine, but it's mouth area is clearly visible as the
tissues are pulled down around it. Is this normal? I wondered if it
would fragment itself off and start a new coral? <Is normal... is
"protecting", extending its territory> My other question
also involves the same bubble coral. It's stinging tentacle is
about 6 inches long, and is causing us to move other corals even
further away than we had originally. <Ah yes> (We had everything
about 6 inches away from it.) This coral has become a beast and is
quickly taking over our tank!! Is it possible to clip off the stinging
tentacle without harming the coral? <Mmm, no. Not advised> Thanks
in advance for your advice! Wendy <... A larger system in your
future? Bob Fenner>
Can a bubble coral and maroon clownfish co-exist? -
12/12/06 Hello everyone and Merry Christmas, <Hey Carole and
Harold! Happy Holidays to you and yours as well! JustinN with you
today.> I have a 100 gallon reef tank. In it I had 1-yellow tang,
1-blenny, 2-cardinals and numerous corals, including a bubble coral
that were all happily coexisting. <Ok> A friend of mine has been
raising maroon clownfish and so I got a couple small ones for my tank.
They are less than an inch long. <Cool!> I do not have any
anemones in my tank and was not planning on getting any. <Is not
necessary for clownfish, nor is it recommended with your existing
corals. You are wise here.> For the first week everything was going
fine. However within the last week or so the clownfish have adopted the
bubble coral as their host. <Fairly common occurrence> Although
they don't appear to be harming it, it is not extending as much as
it was. Do you think in time the bubble coral will adjust or should I
consider placing a bubble tip anemone in my tank. Thanks again and
again <I've seen many Maroon clowns hosting bubble corals, on
many occasions. It is very much a wait-and-see situation, watch the
clowns behavior and the corals reactions. If you start to see
deteriorating flesh, or the polyps simply aren't opening and
inflating at all, then you may need to intervene, either removing the
clowns or the coral. In my opinion though, all will be fine with time,
and the coral will learn to accept the 'loving touch' of the
clowns! Cheers! -Justin>
Clownfish And Bubble Coral...Often Not A
Good Mix - 12/04/06 We are having trouble with a bubble coral. We
have had him about 3 months and he seemed great at first, but the last
two weeks he has been completely closed both at night and during the
day. <<Not good>> The tank is as follows: 95 gallon with
100 pounds live rock, pH: 8.2, Nitrates/nitrites/ammonia: 0, SG: 1.024,
temperature: 79-80 F. The bubble shares the tank with 2 Sebae clowns,
<<A clue here>> a yellow tang, assorted crabs, frog spawn
coral, torch coral, hammer coral, and a hairy mushroom. All other
corals "seem" to be doing ok. We have tried target feeding
and moving him to areas of less light and less current, but he remains
closed. He is at least 8 inches away from any other coral. Around the
time he started to close, we noticed one of the clowns persistently
trying to host him. <<Ah yes...>> We don't know if that
was part of the problem or just a coincidence. <<It is very
likely this is the problem. Some corals do fine with the
"attentions" of clownfish, but the large vesicles of
Plerogyra species are easily irritated/damaged by the sharp septa of
the skeleton>> Any suggestions? <<Separate the bubble coral
from the clownfish>> Thanks! Michele <<A pleasure to
PLEASE HELP ASAP!!! Ammonia spike!!! Cnid., Anemone incomp.
9/30/06 Hey crew. I need your advice. I have (maybe had) a 29
gallon reef with a 15 gallon refugium. I was gone for 2 days and came
back to see I had a bubble coral looking like it had died twice! I
removed it, and took a water sample. Ammonia was .25 ppm. Well, I just
so happened to be out of salt and needed to wait till the morning to go
get some. All of a sudden... white slime (looks kinda like mucus) come
off of everything. Every piece of live rock, every mushroom...
everything. I tried syphoning as much as I could. <Yikes> I ran
and got an old Fluval and threw some carbon in it and ran it for the
night. <Good try> I woke up the next morning to about 10 dead
mushrooms, a dead hammer coral, and a rose bubble tip <...
incompatible> that was not looking good at all. I removed all of
them.. <Best... but not back together... the root cause...> and
noticed lots of goo coming off over every part of the anemone. So, ...
as i tried not to freak out, but rather act quickly..... I went as fast
as i could and got some salt. I did a 10 gallon water change right
then, and had to run into work. I cam back from work and did a water
test and the ammonia was 1.0 ppm. I was at a loss of what to do. I
contacted my LFS and asked what they recommended. I was instructed to
do a very very large water change. <About the best stop-gap
measure> I changed 21 gallons of the 29 or so (less cause of live
rock) and left the water that was in the refugium. I added a bag of
live sand and mixed it with the sand currently in there hoping not to
destroy all the helpful bacteria. I then added 21 gallons of freshly
made water and added a packet of bio-Spira marine. Before the water
change... everything looked like they were saying good bye to life...
now they look like they want to fight to live. I have a strange feeling
this large of a water change will cause the tank to cycle again. I was
hoping to defeat this fear with bio-Spira.. but only time and your
advice will tell. I did a full water test. Here are the results:
Ammonia - .25 (maybe .5, holding the test tube looks like both of them.
More so the .25 but I guess i should error on the side of caution)
Nitrite .05 Nitrate 5.0 Alk 2.9 Ph 8.4 Ca - 300 Salinity 1.026 Please
give me some advice on what to do. Anything and everything I can do. I
was planning on doing another 8 gallons tomorrow to try and lower that
ammonia. Are the benefits of doing the change worth the risk of further
causing the tank to cycle? I am soo lost and need your help. Josh
Henley <Mmm, something "caused" the initial
stress/reaction of the one Euphylliid... very likely something to do
with the presence of the Anemone... cascade of bad-events after this...
Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompfaqs.htm and the linked
files above, particularly re Anemone Incompatibility with other
Cnidarians. Bob Fenner>
Frogspawn setup -lighting question.
8/4/06 Dear Bob, WWM crew, I can't thank you guys enough for
all the advice I've received with my past reef and FW setups. I
came across your website and read CMA and Anthony's book on coral
propagation after I set up my reef and have relied on you for help. For
the first time, I'm actually setting up a smaller reef tank after
reading on your website and the above mentioned books. My goal is to
house two frogspawns -one Euphyllia divisa and one Euphyllia
paradivisa. AND NOTHING ELSE -except for macro algae, live rock and
live rock hitchhikers. I currently have a 20 gal "Long term
QT" that is housing 15# live rock, 4" DSB, red kelp,
Chaetomorpha and the two corals. These will be transferred to the new
setup over the course of 6 months or so... after the new DSB matures. I
had a 45 gallon acrylic tank built for this -dimensions: 24" X
24" foot print and 18" height, with a 20 gallon sump. I have
a Remora Pro with Mag3 pump, and an Eheim 1250 return pump -with a
3' head, this should flow about 240 gph. The return is plumbed thru
a SCWD with nozzles on either side at the back of the tank. In the
middle of the back side of the tank, I'm planning on adding either
a sea swirl of one of those oscillating power heads for an additional
200ish gph flow by the time the corals make the move. That's about
a 15X turnover... The tank will have a 5" DSB with 12" of
water and about 30# of live rock. The system water volume is about 40+
gallons, with 28 gallons or so in the display, 12-14 in the
sump/circulation. Questions: a) I have some polyp and mushroom coral
hitchhikers on the LR -I'm on the fence as to what to do with them
-remove them or let them be? I don't want to deal with any chemical
aggression between the three groups. b) Lighting options -I want to use
a single HQI bulb to light the center of the tank so I can have glimmer
lines and adequate lighting near the center of the tank with subdued
lighting along the walls and rim to encourage coralline algae growth.
The bulb will be exactly over the center of the tank, with one coral
offset 4" from the center and the other offset about 8" from
the center along a diagonal -I hope this makes sense to you. I
don't know if I should go with a 70W or 150W HQI bulb -15,000K
spectrum. Heat is not a consideration, as I'm willing to use a
chiller if that's what it comes down to, but I don't want any
more light than what I can get away with. Thank You, Narayan
<<Narayan: Frogspawn generally likes medium to high light and
medium flow. I have one about half way down in a 180 tank under 400W SE
MH lights and another at the bottom of a 75 tank under VHO lighting.
Both of them are growing and doing fine. When mushrooms get near the
frogspawn, they lose. Thus, I don't think you have much to worry
about. As far as lighting, you can use either bulb. You seem to being
planning a lot of flow. Frogspawn will not like to be blasted by a lot
of flow. You'll have to direct the jets of water away from it. Best
of luck, Roy>>
Coral Compatibility...Mushrooms vs. Hammer
Coral 7/18/06 You guys (and gals) have been very helpful to me in
the past, and have helped me weather more than a few storms with my 36
bowfront reef, and I'd like to see if you can help me with this
one. I cannot keep mushrooms alive. I have a 36 bowfront reef with
hang-on-filter and hang-on skimmer, 2 powerheads in the tank for flow,
3.5 inch DSB, about 50 pounds live rock and 2 65 kW PC fluorescents.
I've been up and running more than a year with stable param.s
(1.024, pH 8.2, ammonia-nitrites-nitrates all reading 0, temp 80, Ca
390, alk 4.5). Few small fish are healthy (although I have a Falco hawk
who is a bit aggressive), and I have star polyps, yellow polyps, some
button polyps, and a branching anchor, all of which are growing and
doing very well. I run carbon and PolyFilters changed alternately every
2 weeks. I use RO water with Oceanic salt (will switch to Instant Ocean
when I run out). Twice now, I have placed mushroom rocks (Discosoma) at
the base of my tank, and each time after slow and careful acclimation,
they expand and look great for about 2 weeks, but after 2 weeks, they
begin to contract and fold up, the mouth protrudes, and then over a
week or so they wither and dissolve. I add iodine rarely (a few drops a
week when my tests show almost none in the tank). I don't target
feed the corals, but add some thawed Cyclop-eeze with the fish food
once or twice a week, and I know they pick up some spare Mysis when I
feed the fish. I'm a little confused, as mushrooms are supposedly
so "easy", but I'm have great luck with my anchor, but
can't keep the mushrooms alive. I was hoping PolyFilter and carbon
would take care of any battling between species. I've never seen
any "critters" bothering the mushrooms, and there are no
chunks missing. I place them low in the tank, and an area of relatively
low flow. I cannot find any specific requirements for mushrooms
anywhere, but my best guess is something "unknown" in the
water which is toxic specifically to mushrooms, or there is something
missing (an additive), that is required for mushrooms, but not for the
others. Would love to tap your experience for any ideas. I like the
looks of them, but if I just can't have them, I hate to have any
more withering in my tank.... <The Anchor/Hammer Corals are very
aggressive in regards to chemical warfare. Even with the use of
chemical media, the problem will exist in a small tank such as yours.
The Hammer Coral has long sweeper tentacles, so nothing is too safe in
it's vicinity. Give the Hammer Coral a ride to your dealer, let him
hold it for a while and continue chemical filtration. I'm pretty
sure within two weeks you will see an improvement. James (Salty
Re: Coral Compatibility...Mushrooms vs. Hammer Coral
7/18/06 Thanks for the reply, but I'm wondering if you might
have any other thoughts. My first failures with mushrooms happened
several months ago, before the hammer was in the tank. Aside from the
new mushrooms (now about 2 weeks in) he's my most recent addition
(about 8 weeks now, and doing well over the 8 weeks). The mushrooms and
anchor are at opposite ends of the tank, and the anchor is placed high,
while the mushrooms are low. <Doesn't matter, they are still in
the same tank.> It may be the hammer this time, but I suspect there
may be something else... <Thinking environmental problems, any
cleaners used near the tank, substance in freshwater used for top off,
etc. Read here and related links. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/shroomhlthfaq2.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Euphylliids coral placement... Packin' a
Reef with a Crowbar - 05/17/2006 Hi! If a torch and a hammer coral
are placed side by side are they going to "fight" each other?
<They will directly sting and compete likely yes...at the least will
stunt each others growth.> Would you advice against it?
<Yeah.> In fact I do have a torch (I think its healed at last...)
and a hammer and there is enough distance between them to
"stack" a second torch between them and still a little bit
room for growth. <How much room, sweeper tentacles can reach quite a
way...I wouldn't do it.> It would look fantastic, I just worry
about warfare... <Me too.> Thanks! Dominique <Adam J.>
Jumping Goby & Greedy Shrimp - 04/27/06 Hi Crew, Two quick
questions. I just found my citron goby lying on the floor. It bounced
when I touched it so I gingerly picked it up after rinsing my hands in
system water (not drained back into the tank either) then cupped it in
the tank. I let it catch its breath and it seemed to gain its bearings
and find a place to rest and recuperate. Scared me, I love this little
ball of attitude.<they are quite interesting!> I had no idea that
they were jumpers and I am concerned as to why it jumped out,
especially considering that there is no easy way for it to escape.
Other tankmates are a skunk cleaner, 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 neon goby.
Weekly 15% water changes. I have had an increase in water temp from my
usual 78-80F to a higher 82F. Any insight, and do I need to do anything
else for the poor fellow? <he should be alright! sounds like you
keep the tank maintained well!> Next, I am deciding if I should
return my skunk cleaner. 1 month in the tank and doing phenomenally
well. Has already molted 3 times, tries to clean the fish, actually
cleans my hand when I let it. An absolutely greedy animal. Devours
several Mysis shrimp at each twice-daily feeding plus as much Spirulina
flakes as possible while swimming upside down at the surface. Actually
very quick learner and has taken to harassing my frogspawn (3 heads,
added 10 days ago) during feedings to steal any Mysis that may fall
into it or that I place purposefully. I am concerned that the frogspawn
will suffer for the "attention" and not adjust to it. I have
noticed a tentacle that does not get full during the day anymore. The
shrimp is over zealous, but has not directly hurt anything, not even my
small xenia. Your opinion. <I would keep a close eye on this. It is
a judgment call. If you feel the frogspawn is not doing well I would
definitely return either the frogspawn or the shrimp....good luck with
this decision, IanB> Thank you for the website, individual attention
to emails and your two books I have purchased. Invaluable and
interesting. I really appreciate my friend that introduced me to your
website. Keep up the great work. <thank you and good luck to
you!> Jeff Morgan
Bubble Coral/Compatibility 4/3/06 Hello,
<Hello Jamie> I have read that bubble corals are quite
aggressive. <They do have long sweeper tentacles.> My question
is, "does this hold true for members of their own species, or just
other corals?" <All corals regardless of species should not
placed in a position where they or other corals might sting them.>
My father and I just purchased a yellow and pink bubble coral, and we
thought it would look nice next to an already established pink bubble
in the center of our tank- making the illusion of one large bubble or a
bubble colony if you will. Your advice would be much appreciated, and
until we hear back from you we will keep the two bubbles apart, just in
case. Thank you. <You're welcome. James (Salty
Plerogyra/Clown combo. concern 7/21/05 Hey everyone!
<Jen> First, I have to say I LOVE your site. I just recently got
my Marine Science degree and all through the 4 years (not to mention
setting up my own tanks) your website has been an information source
and just plain fun! Thank you. <Ah, welcome, and congratulations on
your graduation> I have a quick question, one I probably know the
answer to already, but I just wanted input. I have a small reef tank (I
could give you all the parameters and water quality and whatnot here -
they are perfect, however it is irrelevant.) My question is: I have a
Bubble Coral - nice size maybe 6 inch diameter base and my two percula
clowns have taken to it like they normally would an anemone host.
<Happens> I did have a bubble tip anemone that they just
didn't want anything to do with. (They are tank bred so I knew this
relationship may take some time.) But they now play, sleep, and show
all the interaction signs with the Bubble coral and not the anemone.
This is a great relationship to watch! But my question is: is this safe
for the coral? <Mmm, as long as the Clowns are not too
rambunctious...> I know the bubbles are fairly delicate and thin -
could this in any way be detrimental to the coral itself? Or is this
perfectly fine and I should just be honored to be witness to such a
relationship. <You would, will likely see if there is any real
trouble here. The Clowns are likely aware of the effect of their
physical interaction with the Plerogyra> Thanks so much, I just
wanted input! Keep up the outstanding work and I look forward to your
response. ~Jen <Perhaps you will join us in time. Bob
Frogspawn and hammer coral question 7/6/05 I
have a small frogspawn (2 inch across) and 2 hammers (1 1.5 inch across
& 5 inch across). Can these 3 corals be placed together in close
proximity without them killing each other? <Keep a minimum of
8" between LPS specimens to avoid sweeper tentacle wars. I would
also use carbon in LPS tanks to cut down on allelopathic chemical
concentrations in the water> Thanks, S> Montgomery <Anytime -
Xenia stung by Frogspawn 3/14/05 Hi there! Thanks for
the great help you provided me so far! I only have two simple
questions. 1- Is there anything I can do to save a pulsing Xenia which
was stung by a Frogspawn??? (Only one branch was stung) <strong
water flow is key> 2- I'd like to know if the Coralife Aqualight
Power Center is a good timer. (I'd really like to know. It's
the only timer of this kind available around here and it's 75 $
CAN, so I don't want to get something that wouldn't do...)
Thanks a lot!!! Ivan <I don't have personal use with the timer
or know of anyone close that has. Better for you, do check the big
message board "Reef Central" for a consensus on customer
Stung Clam? I bought a couple of
clams a couple of weeks ago. One is a Derasa and the other a Maxima. I
put them on the sand bed with a rock slightly burying beneath them.
They are under MH lighting and I feed DT's Phytoplankton to the
tank. The other evening a branch of my Hammer Coral dropped onto the
opened Derasa. <Oh!> The clam still opened ok that evening but
not as much the next day. Now today it is closed tightly. My guess is
that it is suffering from stings from the Hammer Coral. Am I on the
right path or should I be looking at something else. <This is likely
it> I have not seen any snails but I did see what appeared to be
tiny black specks (like copepods only black) dotted about the shell.
The Maxima is doing fine and that's why I believe it was because of
the Hammer. Is there anything that I can do here? Thanks Brad <Not
much... do make sure the Euphylliid is securely anchored... away from
the Tridacnids. Bob Fenner>
Elegance coral risky to fish?
1/2/05 I have a question before I purchase a gorgeous specimen of
C. jardinei. I had a terrible experience lately where my rose bulb
anemone ate a $150 geometric pygmy Hawkfish the day I got it! I was
broken hearted over the loss of such a rare fish. Nonetheless, I have
moved the anemone to a different tank <Yikes!! I feel your pain. My
carpet anemone has dispatched with about the same dollar amount in
various shrimps and small fishes. This is one of the many reasons that
anemones aren't ideal community tank inhabitants. Kudos for sucking
it up and moving it!> but after thinking this through, what is to
keep the stinging tentacles of a C. jardinei from capturing a perching
fish such as a Hawkfish as well? Do you guys have any reports of this
coral taking fish? Thanks In Advance! <C. jardinei has one of the
most powerful stings of any of coral, and is more powerful than even
some anemones (Mine has actually raised welts on my fore arm!). That
said, fish capture doesn't seem to be a big problem. However, I
suspect that most folks are careful not to mix slow moving or perching
fishes with this coral, and I would suggest exactly that precaution.
Best Regards. AdamC.
Hammer Coral Killed My Fish? Hi, this is my first time
to your site, it's great! I am new to saltwater keeping and am
wondering if a hammer coral can kill fish? I bought on yesterday and
woke up this morning and my clown fish and scooter blennies were dead.
I didn't know what else it could be, my water checked out fine.
>>>Hi Brian, It's not likely that your hammer coral is
responsible for your fish deaths. As far as what IS responsible, I wish
I could be of more help. Having kept various species of Euphyllia
though with many different species of fish, and NEVER having a problem,
I'm all but certain your hammer is not to blame. Cheers
Corals Vs. Anemone... First, let me start off by
thanking you for this wonderful site. I have learned so much about
saltwater aquarium from your site. Many thanks. <And thanks to you
for the kind words!> My question is regarding an aggressive Maroon
Clown. I searched the previous post and did not find any information. I
have a Maroon Clown which has been paired with anemone in a 75 gallon
tank for the past year or so. Within the last month or so, the anemone
has moved his location in the tank. I have recently notice that the
clown has started to attack my Torch and Hammer corals which is within
proximity (very close) of the anemone. In attempts to relocate the
anemone to another location, I used a small power head, thinking this
would push him back in the other direction. This did not work. <Not
a good idea...You really want to avoid handling the anemone unless the
situation is absolutely grave, IMO> The clown is suffering damage
from the attacks on the corals. I do not think the corals will continue
to be able to withstand the abuse. If you could offer any suggestions,
it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks George <Unfortunately, these
are highly aggressive corals; even hobbyists can be "stung"
by touching one of these nasties. Since keeping these corals and
anemones together is not advised, I'd make a decision as to which
of the animals you intend to keep for the long run. Remove the corals
or the anemone...It's your call. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Mixing Aggressive Corals Hi Bob, <Scott F. in today!> I
got a bit of a startle last night. I have a tank full of Frogspawns,
Hammers, and Torches, and in one of your articles (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegance.htm), you wrote
that Catalaphyllia should not be placed near any other cnidarians.
<They can be highly aggressive, and don't mix well with stinging
cnidarians in close quarters.> I've always been under the
impression that as long as they were in the Euphyllia genus, they could
live side by side without any problems and haven't witnessed any
issues thus far in such an arrangement. Is this not true? Thanks, Don
<Well, Don, while it is certainly possible to keep them together in
the same system, it is not recommended in most closed systems, simply
because of the potential allelopathic competition. These are highly
aggressive corals! In the long term, one species-or one specimen- will
almost always dominate the others. In most small to medium sized
systems, I'd stick to one species; or at least I'd allow
considerable distance between specimens of Euphyllia and other corals.
HTH. Regards, Scott F>
Crazy Clownfish... Hello All,
<Hello there! Scott F. at the keyboard tonight!> I have a nutty
full grown tomato clown of two years (he is full grown at two right?)
<Pretty darn close, if not full grown...> I don't keep
anemone's because they are near impossible to keep and sting
everything. <Not true all the time, but I sometimes wish more
hobbyists would share your "phobia", for the sake of
anemones!> My tomato stays directly above the bubble coral (softball
size) and bobs and weaves like some drunk bi-plane pilot. I know he
enjoys the "current" and the coral but... Is he destined to
croak being the daredevil he is? Thanks in advance. Steve in California
<Well, Steve- those clowns are a wacky bunch! I would not be overly
concerned. However, the Bubble Corals do possess some rather aggressive
stinging tentacles at night, which could pose a threat to the fish.
However, I think that the fish will probably avoid sleeping
there...Personally, I'd be more concerned about the potential
damage to the coral caused by the fish's antics! Keep an eye on
things...Don't go crazy, though! Regards, Scott F>
Frogspawn vs. frogspawn? Naw, the family gets along fine...
(03/04/04) Hey crew, <Ananda here helping out...> I have two
different frags of frogspawn, one has pink tips and the other has
green. My question is will these two morphs sting each other if placed
in close proximity (<6" apart)? <I've seen several sorts
of frogspawn in a tank, living happily together. Well, as happy as
corals get, anyway. I've seen frogspawn next to hammer corals with
both doing well.> Thanks. Steve <You're quite welcome.
When Corals Attack! (Pt. 2) Hi Scott! <Hello
again!> Thanks for all the help ! <Glad to be of service!> I
went to the LFS last weekend, and sad to say they don't sell
mushrooms or button polyps. They only have hammers, bubble corals, and
flowerpot corals. <All of which can be both challenging and
fascinating!> I've read the articles and FAQs in the site, and I
may consider the hammer coral, since bubble corals get big, and
flowerpots are hard to take care of, as my tank is a tiny 2 month old
10 gal nano-tank. <Yikes! If you are going with a hammer coral in a
nano- I'd avoid any other corals. This is a rather small volume of
water, and the potential allelopathic competition would be pretty
tough!> I'm starting to stock corals while my fishes (2 false
Percs and 1 black Sumatra saddleback) are in QT, recovering from ich.
They're now ok, but I'm still observing them. <Be
patient...you did a good job on beating the disease; no sense rushing
them back into their home> I'll be buying thick long gloves for
the hammer coral. Thanks again ! Romel <Keep up the good work!
Regards, Scott F>
Anchor coral hurtin' and hostin'... AKA
"clowns in my coral" Hi <not yet... but thanks for
asking> I have a Anchor coral Euphyllia the problem is that at times
the some of the coral looks shriveled and then seems fine the shriveled
part is not always the same It does not extend as much as it did ,I
have 2 common clowns who play in it are there responsible? <that is
certainly a primary problem... it is unnaturally abrasive and
repetitive in the confines of an aquarium. In time, it will wear or
tear the Euphylliid perhaps causing an infection and possibly leading
to the coral's death. They need to be separated> Water stats are
PH 8.2-8.3 Ammo 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5 Calcium 430-450 KH 12 is this to
high <its fine but on the high end... avoid creeping higher. Just
like you calcium... be careful not to abuse supplements> Phos 0
Thanks for your help Tim <best regards, Anthony>
Euphyllia (hope that's right) Hi Bob, I have heard
that it is possible to place different types of Euphyllia next to one
another (polyps touching) without any problems. The only exception
being the torch coral. I have a beautiful Anchor Coral in my tank now
and I'd like to group in with another (with different coloring) and
possibly a frogspawn. Can these be massed together without any
ill-affects? <Hmm, wouldn't say "massed together"...
better that they not actually touch, be able to reach each other...>
Also,.......thanks for the previous direction on the home-made calcium
reactor. That's a nice site. <Ah, good... I sense your mental
cogs, wheels a-turning!> Take care, Tony <Be chatting, Bob
Bubble Coral and Tomato Clowns Hello. I was wondering
if you ever heard of a bubble coral hosting a tomato or cinnamon
clownfish. <Oh yes! Plerogyra, and many other members of its
family... hosting all sorts of species of Clowns> I purchased a
bubble coral several months ago (I am 100% certain it is a coral) and
my cinnamon clown has taken to it as if it were an anemone. I have
anemone in the tank also that I purchased for the clownfish, but he
ignores them and remains with the bubble coral... Is this normal?
Thanks and great site! Ben Mendez <Thank you, and yes...
"normal" for aquarium care. Bob Fenner>
Fwd: Stung Guys, I tried to send this from my balky
home computer this morning, but not sure it arrived. Today I saw the
Doc, who asked if I could identify the toxin (turns out he keeps a FO
salt tank himself). The site is infected and it's in a bad place,
so the information would be very helpful. Try me at XXXX@murthalaw.com
(office tomorrow) or XXXX@earthlink.net (home). Many thanks. Good
morning Gentlemen A week ago I brushed the back of my hand against the
business end of my bubble coral (Plerogyra sinuosa) while reaching for
something on the bottom of the tank. Two days later, the area was red
and sore (my hand, not the tank). It is getting worse not better, so
I'm off to the doctor this afternoon. What can I tell him about the
nature of the toxin? I understand the basic nematocyst physiology, but
can't find the "active ingredient." I'll be in work,
so please respond to enewton@XXXX Many thanks. Newt
<Proteinaceous... likely a corticosteroid salve will do here... and
time. If you should have your hands in systems with cnidarians again,
you might be a candidate for longer-length plastic gloves. Please read
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Wound.htm and the FAQs beyond. Bob
Stung (Anthony?#8364;™s turn) Good morning
Gentlemen <cheers, my friend> A week ago I brushed the back of my
hand against the business end of my bubble coral (Plerogyra sinuosa)
while reaching for something on the bottom of the tank. Two days later,
the area was red and sore (my hand, not the tank). It is getting worse
not better, so I'm off to the doctor this afternoon. What can I
tell him about the nature of the toxin? I understand the basic
nematocyst physiology, but can't find the "active
ingredient." I'll be in work, so please respond to XXX Many
thanks. Newt <not at all likely that the coral imparted a toxin, per
se. Many other worse things to enter with the breach by the sting...
Vibrio and mycobacterium are concerns. Do review some of the
possibilities here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Wound.htm.
To your good health. Anthony>