FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone
Use in Marine Aquariums 6
Related Articles: Bubble
Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine
Systems by Bob Fenner, Bubble Tip
Anemones by Jim Black, Recent
Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani,
Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs: E. quad. FAQ
1, E. quad FAQ 2, E. quad. FAQ 3, E.
quad FAQ 4, BTA s 5, BTAs
7, BTAs 8, & BTA ID, BTA Compatibility, BTA Selection, BTA
Behavior, BTA Systems, BTA Feeding, BTA
Anemones, Anemones 2,
Anemones, Anemones and
Selection, Anemone Behavior,
Feeding, Heteractis malu,
New Print and
eBook on Amazon:
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Attn, Bob... Report: Dyed "Sherman Rose" BTA!
Hey ya'll, Sean Morris, down here at Acadian Mariculture (what I am now calling
my marine breeding operation, hehe)...I was trying to make my true perc
broodstock happy because my last two clutches weren't... well.. alive
for long...and so my LFS who I do a LOT of business with, had these beautiful
"Sherman rose anemones" ... purple disk, dark brown base, pink tentacles no
green showing at all. I recently recovered a bleached gbta from
there, so my water quality isn't a problem... again... I breed true percs.So my
wife bought one... and it hasn't been doing well (thought it was due to quick
acclimation)... so I went and bought another... did a 3 hour acclimation...
brought it home in an ice chest...bought two gbtas with it...-I want my mama
percula to imprint on rose and regular so the babies will take to both. at least
that was my plan-Well... today, after waking up to the three new anemones
looking perfectly happy... ... this first Sherman is still showing the same
symptoms:-tentacles sticking together, sticking to algae, bacteria.-overly
frequent defecation of body-colored bits.-enarging at night with mouth
open-color fading, turning white in some spots, brown in others-as sensitive to
hands in the tank as a ritteri(whereas most btas, you can touch and they don't
care, this one shrivels when I pull have a finger in without vinegar soaking,
and even then, its only a matter of time)-and now, today... a green tentacle.
just the one?
<Mmm; they can/do change color/s at times>
A single green nub, surrounded by pink and purple... cant really see it well in
the photo, but I tried. one green tentacle...for now...but the bleached areas
seem to be showing a little green, as well.i will more closely document the
progress of the other, formerly identical, specimen, and post progress on my
YouTube channel, The Lost Begotten. Feel free to check it out ;)-also filming an
ultimate anemone guide series, so you may find that helpful.
<Oh yes; my pitch/presentation this year (August) at MACNA is titled Captive
Anemone Use. Do make it known when and where this is posted>
In addition to my 30yrs exp, this past weeks panic has made me update my
research-base, and I feel like I've got some complete info that needs sharing.
For now, I had to let you all know about this, apparently, dyed RBTA...
makes me wonder if Sherman's are all dyed. It would be sad, but not
surprising, if con-artistry had become so elaborate.
<I don't know re Sherman... some folks postings on the Net speculate they might
Welcome to Trumpland.Thanks again for all your helpful info. Peace-Sean Morris
(Baton Rouge, La)
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Bubble-Tip Anemone Compatibility 2/23/17
I am working on growing my 30 gallon saltwater
aquarium. I currently have 2 Percula Clownfish, 1 Engineer Goby,
4 Mini Carpet Anemone, and 2 Nassarius Snails. I want to get a
Bubble-Tip Anemone eventually for the Clownfish to host with,
but am also interested in urchins or sea stars. I am wondering
if a Bubble-Tip is considered compatible with Blue Tuxedo Urchins or
Chocolate Chip Sea Stars. Thoughts?
<Mmm; the one word answer here is "no"; but I'd like to offer some
explanation/s: First, it's hard to keep even the better species of
anemones in small volumes; like your thirty gallon here. They're just
not stable enough. Second, there is very little chance an Entacmaea
would live with the Mini-Carpets... they're incompatible in such a small
likely either physically meet and fight (to the death) or chemically
compete. Third, sea urchins cruise about, especially at night time and
will poke sessile life forms like anemones... Unless the latter are
mounted high up on rock out of the way. Lastly, see here re CCS:
and the linked files above>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
RBTA issues. Using WWM 3/23/16
<Have you searched, read on WWM re Entacmaea?>
I have a question about my rose bubble tip anemones. I apologize for
layman terms in advance...
I currently have 3 RBTA's that have been beautiful and healthy for over
3 years. They've never "bubbled" but from what I've read this is a
normal condition for alot
<No such word>
I recently added a "tube" anemone
<Incompatible. Add "Cerianthus" compatibility to your WWM reading>
that is a beautiful bright pink and brilliant green. I added this one to
the opposite end of the tank just as a
precaution. About 2 weeks after it was added my roses turned the same
bright pink color as the tube. I'm concerned the new addition has been
releasing chemicals affecting the roses.
<Oh yes... the reading>
Do you think this could be possible?
Nitrate about 10ppm
Phosphate .02ppm, Cal 400ppm, ALK 6.4dkh
Lighting is t-5's 10k, 14k and 460 actinic
Bubble Tip Anemone 2/29/16
I just bought a bubble tip anemone, two actually. One is perfectly content in a
little nook of a rock I could fit it in as it is very small still. The larger
one was moving about, yet I bought different live rock that is more "dish" like,
with a support wall to encourage it to stay put. It actually has taken to this
spot, however I have noticed the last two nights it seems to stretch out.
<The colored one appears fine; the other... badly bleached, likely starving>
First night (before I got the live rock) it stretched from the rock it was on
all the way to the other side of the tank. Seeing this I automatically went and
got the rock and placed it where it had stretched to the night before.
<Mmm; will move where it wants, needs to>
This morning I found that it was yet again stretched out upright this time
towards the center of my tank (nothing there this is the free swim space) yet it
isn't trying to move based on what I saw. Do you know why this is and
what I can do to give it better space or keep it content in the tank?
<These are clones or not? You have soluble N, P, K present? What are you
feeding... oh, see this below>
I have read to go buy a shrimp and cut it into tiny bits and feed it,
<More than this... see as in READ on WWM re Entacmaea... en toto>
I haven't done this yet. I have been feeding it brine shrimp and ROI Fish Eggs.
Could it be hungry?
I have borrowed three photos from the internet,
<... stole. Won't post them then>
close to what I am seeing as I haven't gotten pictures just yet of mine
personally. I appreciate, any and all help or advice. The anemone has
progressively lost its "bubble" tip as seen in the pictures though.
[http://www.reef2reef.com/attachments/nem_palys_13-2-2-jpg.50813/] When I bought
it, only looked similar to this only green.
[http://www.reef2reef.com/attachments/1417807035142-jpg.200828/] The next
morning it had stretched even longer than this across the floor of my tank.
[http://www.livingreefs.com/attachments/anemone-jpg.21459/] How it appeared this
morning (only not as small as mine is a larger anemone).
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Fungia Frustration 10/17/15
I have attached a picture of a small plate coral, Fungia, I hope.
<Ah yes; I see it/this.... are those Dinoflagellates.... growing on your
substrate? Not BGA I hope/trust>
He has been a resident for about six weeks. He acclimated well, is on the sand
bed and moved himself to within 6 inches of a large mushroom. You can see his
skeleton receding in the area around his mouth. He eats mysis every few days.
Could he be weak from the proximity of the mushroom?
<Could be a factor; yes>
He moved to the current location, at this point is moving him away to<o>
<I would let this animal move itself>
The tank is new, 6 months, 1.025 salinity, 0 ammonia or nitrite, 10ppm nitrate,
7.5 dKH, 400 calcium, 8.0 ph, no chemical additions.
<Good point, data. Oh; I would add a bit/dose of iodide-ate weekly; likely
during water changes>
The tank parameters seem stable with weekly 10% water changes, with ro/di water.
I have Kessil leds, the 160s.
The other issue is my bubble tip anemone, he has only been in the tank
for two weeks.
<Oh... could be a bit of allelopathy with this organism as well. Do you "mix
water" during quarantine? Please see my SOPs re archived on WWM. The best way of
introducing disparate (and competing) Cnidarians>
The first week he settled and ate. After a water change he moved during the
night. Next day he looks beat up, but improves his look over the last three days
to normal appearance. He is attached upside down(bad) in a plastic tube the fish
use, no apparent access to light. Should I assist him back to a better
<... could you send a pic of this Anemone, its placement? I would NOT move it if
it can move itself>
There aren't any known predators in the tank,
<But, other competitors. Read here please:
and as much of the linked files above till you feel you have a good
understanding of the situation>
he isn't damaged to look at. If it makes sense, looks like he was jostled
heavily, but now the third day without light. Since he is in a man made plastic
tube could he be confused, lost?
<Not likely; no>
Or could the anemone crab be irritating him to the point of seclusion?
<This is a possibility>
There are a couple of mushrooms and polyps on the other side of the tank, on the
<... could be trouble>
He was elevated on rocks. Or is there some allelopathy and he is
retreating from that?
<Yes; this is the most likely, greatest factor>
Although he seemed good until the water change and any commotion in the tank
seems to upset him, like feeding or algae removal. Is this a sensitivity or
perhaps a weakness?
<I'd say a sensitivity and a strength>
Would another water change be more stressful or helpful?
<The reading; perhaps use of GAC, Polyfilter for now.... removal of some of the
competitors to isolation>
There is Chemi-pure in the filter.
<Ah, good; this is mostly GAC>
Just don't want to wait and see if something is amiss that I am not accounting
for. Btw your site and Karen's anemone sight are both so informative for myself
and others trying to provide for this creature. I'll continue to read.
<Ahh; thank you for your kind, encouraging words. Bob Fenner>
Re: Fungia Frustration 10/17/15
I took and attached a couple of pictures of my distressed bubble tip anemone.
His color is accurate, though he doesn't seem to accept food, obviously
struggling but the cause I am unsure of. Would you remove the crab? Or move the
anemone at this point? Your assistance is invaluable.
<Unless you have some other system; I would move neither. Search WWM re
Entacmaea; and READ. BobF>
Re: Clownfish Obsessed with new Feather Duster! BTA now gen.
Thank you so much Bob for the response! If you would kindly allow
me to ask a few more questions regarding the BTA, I would also very much
appreciate your input. :) As I have already been researching them, I
have to admit, I am timid about getting one. One reason, is coral. Once
the anemone finds a comfortable and Happy spot, do they continue to
<Not usually; no>
Ie, daily routine, search of food, etc? Or do they pretty much stay put
when they are in a good spot?
Another concern, laughable as it may be... is the handling factor. How do
you get the darned thing out of the acclimation bucket once it is time
to put it in the tank?
<IF stuck to something gently edging off with your fingers or using an
olde credit card edge... slowly>
Lol Is that kind
of a " as gently as possible" thing I just have to figure out?
<Yes; experience; but with nothing sharp. And take your time>
I have read
about BTAs splitting and reproducing quickly. This also scares me a bit
and kept me from ordering or searching for one.
<Not to worry>
I will continue to read up of course, but I have a very invert heavy tank
and don't want them to see the anemone as a new jungle gym. I don't
believe I will have any issues, however , this is what is in the tank...
a fairly large thinstripe hermit(3in shell), 1 left handed zebra, 1
mexican red leg, 1 dwarf blue hermit and two electric blue hermits, a
4in coral banded shrimp, a blood fire shrimp, 2 serpent stars, bumble
bee,cerith, and nassarius snails, zoanthids, eight tentacle daisy
polyps, glove polyps, a couple ricordeas, 2 purple mushrooms, a ricordea
yuma, the featherduster and two calcerous macroalgaes. My clowns are
tank raised occilaris and they are the only two fish. I always read, and
from here as well that tank raised clowns do "fine" without an anemone,
and was not really concerned about it. Any ideas as to why adding an
anemone in this situation specifically, might cut down aggression?
<Many... have you read Frank Herbert's "Dune" series? Familiar w/
ecological principles otherwise? The more diverse/complete a system is
the greater its capacity to engage/support life; and that life in turn
adds to the growing capacity. Do you feel "more at home/ease" in a
setting w/ familiar furniture, foods, people/animals?>
You are All a world( an Ocean) of knowledge and I appreciate the time you
All take to talk to those of us really seeking to be sucessful in this
hobby. These fish are my first tank inhabitants and I want to see them
live out their Life Span with me. Not just look pretty ;) Again, Thank
You and Good Evening :)
Could you tell me what's wrong with my anemone?
<Hi Bethany. No message was included in your email. What exactly are you
looking to find out? From the pic provided, I can only say that it is an
|Could you tell me what's wrong with my anemone?
<... data? Read here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
RE: Could you tell me what's wrong with my anemone? 11/9/13
sorry it was in subject line- my anemone has white spots- I was wondering if
you knew what was going on and if you could advise me......
Beth Shene :)
<Keep reading. BobF>
Question... BTA, no data, reading 10/8/13
I have a 55 gal. Salt water tank. The tank has been set
up over a year and a half. I have 2 yellow tangs,
<Mmm, need more room>
3 orange nemo clowns and a bubble tip anemone that has been in the tank
for almost a year. I have a protein skimmer, two circulation and wave
The anemone used to blow up near the lights and the clowns swam in it.
This lasted for many months, maybe 6 months. Then it moved to the bottom
of the tank, on the live rock and closed up. Sometimes it just has its
bubble tips out but hasn't inflated for several weeks.
<Mmm... something amiss here... lighting, nutrition, water quality
Today it moved again to the back of the tank on a live rock. The clowns
are still swimming around it but it is mostly closed. Haven't seen it
inflated for a long time. Any suggestions on what is going on?
<... Yes; read here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Bubble Tip Anemone
I ordered a green bubble tip anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor)
<Mmm, this looks more like a badly damaged Heteractis
online about 2 weeks ago and immediately acclimated
it. It looked horrible (shriveled tentacles, open mouth)
throughout the acclimation, but when I put it in my tank it
immediately inflated and took hold just below where I put
It's foot was shaded, and the tentacles were exposed to
light. I have fed it 3 times (pea size raw table shrimp)
and it immediately ate when I fed it.
I went out of town for the weekend, and when I got back, the
anemone wasn't in it's usual spot, and I noticed it was
on the glass in the back corner of the tank, with it's
tentacles still inflated. I thought maybe it was splitting
but I've read many people say theirs split overnight, and
mine hasn't changed much in the past 18 hours or so. I
have attached two pictures of it, one from the front, and one of
it's foot. Can you tell if it is splitting, or if it
has a torn foot?
<Looks like both... "last ditch effort"... at
My tank is 75 gallons with 4x54 T5HO bulbs, 2 blue plus, one
purple plus, and one white (bulbs are 6 months old).
Temp: Constant 78 degrees
Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate: 0
pH: 8.1-8.2 (hard for me to tell the color on the API pH
Phosphates: reading 0, but I suspect there are phosphates due to
nuisance hair algae
I should also add that it's current position in the tank is
about 6 inches below a powerhead that I immediately unplugged
upon finding the anemone so close to it on the glass. I
don't believe it was damaged by the powerhead, as my water is
clear and the skimmate hasn't deviated from it's normal
Thanks in advance for your advice. I absolutely love your
site and the advice you give!! :)
<I'd "keep on keeping on" w/ what you're
doing and hope for the best. Bob Fenner>
|Re: Bubble Tip
I've never seen a Ritteri with bubble tips before!
<Mmm, it's mainly the color and shape of the
This particular anemone was gorgeous prior to this incident,
or whatever occurred. In two weeks it kept it's bubbles
the entire time.
Are there any types of vitamins or anything I could
"dose" the tank with to promote healing?
<Iodide/ate are useful>
Also, should I continue to feed it?
Bubble Tip Anemone Question/s,
I hope you guys have not answered this before, I read through the site
and did not see anything about what I want to ask, sorry if there is
already an answer. Okay time for the Question : My BTA has been in my
tank for over a month now, I bought it too early, about two weeks after
I set up the tank, the tank is stable now, the BTA was 2 inches when I
purchased it now its 5 inches across, so its growing.
<Or expanding to it's capabilities.>
It's tentacles do not have the short bulb shape it had in the pet
store anymore, it kind of looks like a long tentacle anemone.
<Not uncommon and isn't a problem.>
I have it in a 60 gallon cube , with 300 watts of light the tank is
deep though and its near the bottom,
<BTAs do not require intense light, should be fine here.>
I feed it shrimp weekly, I do 10 % water changes weekly, the ph is 8.0,
all other parameters are okay, not perfect.
<What is OK?>
Do you think there is enough light?
<Don't know for sure. You did not state type of light or
Is shrimp a good choice for anemone food?
<This can be found on our site. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/btafdgfaqs.htm>
It does have a good green color. Is there any supplements that they
<This can also be found on our site, here,
Thanks for any info, this is the best site ever !
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: two fish dead from same or different issue(s)? BTA
Bob, et al-
Thank you so much for your time and wisdom :-) It helped us
greatly in the following days as corals started to be affected by
the chemical warfare.
We went through several water changes, aggressive skimming and
new carbon to help minimize the damage. In the wake, we lost a
Favia (a disappointing loss- it was a fast growing specimen), two
mini-colonies of Zoanthids, obviously the anemone itself, the
clown and scooter blenny. Other corals were unhappy but rebounded
and have all returned to their standard growth rates and the
algae blenny is still fat and skittish (I really don't think
he will become social again....). We allowed the tank to have
several weeks of "hands off" before adding a new
inhabitant. In that time, I have also seen a noticeable increase
in brittle star population and some near-microscopic baby snails,
along with a noticeable decline in the amount of baby abalones
that were prevalent before the long tentacle mishap. I don't
know if that last bit is important, but I do find it
My husband and I discussed at length what would be an intelligent
addition considering what happened with the long tentacle. We
have a good friend that has clones of a RBTA that we had
purchased 4 years ago from a fellow reef club member. These
clones are incredibly hardy and reproduce regularly.
<Are faves of mine>
Fortunately, this friend is also blessed with "the cup
overfloweth" with all his corals. Unfortunately, the rbtas
have reached plague proportions in his 280g tank and he ends up
peeling babies off the glass and putting them in his lighted
sump/refugium since there is absolutely no open real estate in
his main tank. We decided to ask him for an anemone, and drove 4
hours round trip to retrieve it from him.
Our friend was more than happy to oblige, and when we got home we
realized that he had given us two small anemones, a small handful
of macro algae, a well established gorgonian, and a stag horn
frag (in separate bags, deceivingly put into one cardboard box).
My question lies in anemone husbandry- first the facts:
In the tank (30 gal tank, with 10 gal in sump) param.s remain
constant, temp has been the only swing that has been cause for
concern in the past. The temp has settled now that summer is over
to a regular 79.3-ish. My husband also wanted me to clarify that
the specific gravity is 1.025 (and that I shouldn't rely on
the hydrometer that lives suction cupped to the side of the tank
since its only good for an amphipod breeding zone). The
evaporated water has an auto top off, which goes through ro/di as
well as Kalkwasser before dripping into the tank. When the
nem's were added they moved very little (less than an inch
from where placed). At our friends they were under MH light, the
lights they now live under are Ecoxotic led panorama strips-three
strips, one all white, one all blue, one blue/white combo. Their
homes in the tank are about 1/4 of the way from the floor, about
15 inches from the top. One of them has sunk its foot deep into a
hole in the rock and retreats every night, the other has its foot
on a flat rock and it balls up into a blob when the lights go
These specimens are small, but the 12 full sized anemone's in
our friend's tank are between drink coaster sized to
dinner-plate sized when fully inflated. Our friend does not
target feed his anemones since he doesn't wish for them to
grow and reproduce any faster. I would like to add a new clown
eventually, but I do not want for any over loving to injure these
What feeding schedule would be appropriate for these little guys
and also, what is an appropriate rate of growth for an
<Mmm, a couple times per week... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/btafdgfaqs.htm
I read on WWM that krill is not ideal for nem's (oops), but
we rarely feed processed flake.
The bio load of the tank now if very small with just the hermits
and blenny eating algae wafers or the occasional
mysis/krill/Nori/bloodworm blend sold by the LFS. Also, at what
size would the nem's be large enough to be able to handle the
introduction of a clown fish?
<If a gentle species like Ocellaris or Percula, right away
likely... IF big, bad, perhaps never>
I will be purchasing another tank-bred clown when it is ok to do
I realize that as the nems grow and reproduce that I will need to
remove/sell/give away clones to avoid interaction with the other
The rock work is set up in an effort to discourage direct
interaction- the nem's each have their own "leg" of
an archway set up and the flow is directed to help them choose a
more appropriate direction of travel should they wander.
Is there any way to help avoid chemical warfare as well? Thanks
so much for your time, I'm sure that's more info than you
needed for those few questions.
PS I have attached a photo of the rbtas, the color looks washed
out in the photo, but their color is much closer to highlighter
<Nice. Cheers, BobF>
Re: green bubble tip anemone
Hey I'm back with another question for you.. Went to bed last night
after my tank lights went off for the night and my bta appeared to be
doing its self cleansing thing (was all deflated) and woke up with my
10month old so at about 4am and decided to turn on my dinning room
light to check on things and discovered my anemone had almost
completely spilt in two.. So now I'm wondering what type of care do
I need to provide the btas and please don't say to move them to a
qt tank as unfortunately I do not have one at this time but I do fully
intend on getting one set up asap just had a few financial drawbacks
that have kept me from getting one. Looking forward to hearing back
from you on what I can do to ensure both halves recover and then
continue to thrive in my tank
<Same as it ever was. Reading. Here:
and the linked files above. BobF>
Bubble Anemone feeding and behaviour --
Hi Guys and Gals,
My husband bought us a marine aquarium after our months of diving
in the Maldives.
We have sent you pics and emails when we were discovering
interesting little creatures living in our tank for IDing and
your crew havenÂ´t failed us yet!
We have had our tank for over a year and thought we were ready
for an anemone as a gift for our Clowns. We purchased it with the
rock it was attached to, as recommended by you all and selected a
rose bubble tipped as they were recommended to be easier that
<Are; particularly "clones" of individuals already
doing well in captivity>
It moved only once and has planted itself for about 3 weeks now
in the center of the tank. It opened up after about 36 hours, (we
know this as we took turns getting up in the middle of the night
to make sure it didnÂ´t die or kill everything else in
the tank). Our clown finally enjoyed it about one week ago.
(see pic) However, today I noticed its mouth inflating, I am
quite paranoid about over feeding it and now I am paranoid about
it starving. Please tell me this is normal behaviour and what are
the signs of both?
<Is normal... Not to worry>
Help me get some sleep.....
<Rest well. Bob Fenner>
green bubble tip anemone...
beh., fdg., and gen. et al. 1/22/11
Hey guys! I'm back for some more of your wonderful advice regarding
my green bubble tip. I've had it in my tank for almost 3 months now
and up until yesterday it had remained in the same spot where it had a
good current flow and excellent lighting (I have t5s, 2blue and
<Unless you have a great bias/appreciation for the "blue",
I'd switch one of these out for another "white". Your
photosynthetic life will benefit>
it moved around a bit which caused me to have to move some live rock
that had some pulsing xenia on it and a large blue mushroom as they
were being stung by my anemone. The anemone has now moved itself to the
back glass and is in between the glass and some live rock and my poor
Allards clown can no longer get inside it. I was wondering if you could
give me some insight into why it would have moved after being in the
same spot for 3 months.
<Mmm, other than "it happens", not much. Could be that the
current is better where it is now... perhaps the Clown was
"bothering it" too much...>
I feed it small pieces of thawed frozen shrimp
<... needs more, different than this. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/btafdgfaqs.htm
every 2-3 days (my clown actually will move the pieces from its
tentacles to its mouth). All my water parameters are right on the money
and my salinity is between 1.025 to 1.026 which is where I was told
from day one to keep it from my local LFS.
Looking forward to hearing back from you guys as your advice had always
proven to be helpful.
oh and on another subject I have Aiptasia on a piece of live rock, I
went to my LFS and they told me to use Joe's juice, however this
does not seem to be killing them off whatsoever, I'm wondering if
there is a better product out there that I should be using that is reef
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/AipChemInjFAQ2.htm
I would just take out the piece of live rock but it has a few mushrooms
on it and some feather dusters along with another type of coral..
hopefully you can help me out with all of my questions
<Please learn to/use the indices and search tool on WWM. I fear you
may lose livestock awaiting responses. Bob Fenner>
BTA question... gen.
Re: BTA question, was H. malu
Dear WWM crew,
Did I mention you guys are the best? Think I did. Having Bob
answer a question is kind of like getting soccer tips from
<Heeee! And yes (!) we're both still alive!>
Digressions aside, the Heteractis anemone (certainly what he
is...was, sadly) has passed to that great aquarium in the sky; no
surprise as the requirements for E. quadricolor - which I could
handle - and H. malu - outside my ability - are not the same.
Fortunately diligent (obsessive) observation allowed me to remove
him almost immediately on expiration with no change in tank
parameters. New testing paraphernalia yielded good results with
phosphates at unmeasurable and calcium in the high 400's.
<Mmm, no bueno>
Now, the new issue. LiveAquaria, being as wonderful as they
always are with customer service, has sent the correct E.
quadricolor to arrive Thursday. I'm a bit worried still about
the allelopathy issue that Mr.
Fenner mentioned. E. quadricolor will also violate the Geneva
convention and conduct chemical warfare on his neighbors?
<Could well do so... best to greatly ameliorate this
possibility by separately housing (in isolation... quarantine)
and after a few days begin mixing some (a small percentage) of
water twixt the systems (with a
pitcher)... to allow both systems organisms to "get used to
I can try to alleviate this somewhat by overfiltering (say, a new
Biowheel or an extra skimmer), a small sump or reservoir, or
perhaps chemical filtration. Will any of those work out?
<All these will/do help, but do the isolating and water mixing
for a few weeks or more... you may well observe some behavioral
changes in the Cnidarians when you do these exchanges...>
Thanks again. I've included two small pictures that
unfortunately are in violation of your size limitation - I tried
using iPhoto as suggested and failed utterly, so my apologies for
the file size and thanks again for
Dear WWMedia Crew,
First and foremost, thanks for what you do for this hobby. I know that
what I've read here over the years I've been a novice aquarist
can almost always be trusted completely as primary authority, and I
thank you for the time and effort all of you spend answering questions
- hopefully knowledge that your readers share with those of the opinion
that goldfish are disposable pets one can keep in a wineglass, etc.
My current tank is an acrylic 30 gallon tank 18 inches deep. Lighting
is provided by a 130 watt Coralife Aqualight PC Daylight/Actinic unit
with fresh bulbs on a 8:30-6:30 timer; filtration by a little over 35
pounds of Fiji live rock, an aragonite bed roughly 1 inch deep in the
lowest areas varying by 1/2 inch upward in the deeper areas and a Red
Sea Prizm skimmer (surface skimmer attachment and media box filled with
carbon). I use Red Sea salt and the current parameters are
Ammonia/Nitrite 0 Nitrates ~ 20ppm (working on that) at a pH of
8.3/8.4. Currently the only source of water movement besides the
skimmer return is an Eheim Aquaball; within the week a second Aquaball
will arrive along with test kits for kH, calcium and phosphates which I
currently have no way of measuring. Also in this shipment an Instant
Ocean nitrate reducer for obvious reasons. The tank has been stable at
these numbers for around 6 months.
Two corals are resident; a brownish leather coral that seems to be
growing and thriving quite nicely and a small cluster of Zoas happily
spreading near the top of the rock structure.
Livestock; one Green Spotted Puffer, pride of the fleet, upgraded from
skinny and worm-ridden to a healthy, club-shaped 2 3/4 inch happy
specimen in the last 5 months.
A bicolor blenny has been doing his part to assist
the previously all-human cleanup crew necessitated by the puffer;
he's new, around 3 1/2 inches in length and happily reducing the
built-up algae in the tank to shreds. A tomato clown, added at the same
time, fills out the fish roster at around 2 inches. Everyone gets along
nicely; the clown has the GSP under control, the blenny is largely
ignored by all and aside from a few hard-to-catch Aiptasia all the live
rock hitchhikers are benign.
Which brings us to the resident in question, a recently purchased E.
<Mmm, this volume is really too small... and there is likely to be
chemical rivalry twixt the Alcyoniid and Zoanthids and this Anemone...
Which may well cost you your fish livestock>
He was added this week, and immediately on arrival took up residence in
a live rock crevice. Unless symbiotic algae can be yellowish, he
arrived bleached; his foot is a very nice red,
<?... are you sure this is an Entacmaea? Of the principal anemones
used in the trade, only Heteractis malu and some Condylactis have such
deeply colored red pedicles. Read here:
tentacles seem to be whitish yellow and while not fully bloomed he does
have them extended.
The tomato clown took up residence almost immediately upon the
anemone's arrival. He does seem to be feeding the anemone but I
have yet to witness it actually eat anything, and the spot that
it's in seems a bit dark for a photosynthetic organism.
<Mmm, may well be artificially colored. See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/coloredanemones.htm
and the Related FAQs linked above>
My chief concern is that the anemone has not moved from its original
placement 5 days ago; I wonder if perhaps the nearly constant attention
from the clown is preventing it from going where it would prefer to be
in the tank.
<Not likely... and you really don't want this animal moving
about... may physically contact your other Cnidarians, get sucked up by
It is wedged into a deep tunnel in the rock about 6 inches down in an
area that has decent flow with around 50% of its tentacles facing
upward and out of the hole and the remainder in darkness. It never
seems to be particularly in danger, although it can be sheepish about
the lights when they first pop on. Maybe it just found exactly what it
was looking for in a home, but is it possible the clown is bullying it
into staying put?
<Could be, likely is, a bit of both. But nothing really you should
Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/anembehfaqs.htm
Thanks in advance,
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>
Anemone... gen., Carpet?
I have a carpet anemone in my 60gl 4 year old tank.
<Mmm, these species (Stichodactyla) are not easily
I've had it for roughly 30-45 days. I have a maroon clown
that is hosting in it. Here is what I am attempting to do. I have
been running my light for 10-11 hours. Too much. I want to cut
the light time down by 3-4 hours. However, I'm concerned
about how much light my anemone needs.
<Try it and see... these species can derive a good part (most)
of their nutrition from feeding rather than
Furthermore, he has (for a number of weeks) moved underneath the
rock he was originally placed on.
<... are you sure this is a Carpet species?>
As you can see in the attachment, it's still in an open space
so it gets some light. I'm trying to gradually reduce light
time and get it to where I have the light off for the morning and
afternoon and turn it on around 4-10ish. Should I manually move
him back to the where he faces the light directly?
<No. This animal will move when it is ready>
what do I do if he moves back under it? how will the variance in
light time affect him? Knowing what I'd like to accomplish,
can you help me lay out a better plan to do it?
As always, Thanks!
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/carpetanemones.htm
and all the linked files above. We'll be chatting. Bob
Re: Anemone, gen., now BTA 1/6/11
You were right..it's a green bubble anemone. Now that we know
for sure the type, how does that apply to my queries below?
<... same advice to read what is posted on WWM Mike...>
Thanks very much for your help and patience!
<No worries. BobF>
Re: Anemone 1/6/11
just to confirm, I should read the link related to carpet
anemones even though I have a bubble?
<Heeeee! The ones covering Entacmaea Mike. B>
Bubble Tipped Hitchhiker 10/20/10
Hiya from the Victorian Alps of Australia,
<Hello Jamie. Ahh, brings back memories of my skiing days in the
I have had my shiny new Red Sea Max 130D up and running for 1 month and
3 days. I added live rock in the first week of cycling and at the time
I noticed a small, maroon polyp of sorts as a hitchhiker. I assumed it
was a zoa of some sort and placed it under decent light to give it a
chance at surviving the cycle.
Much to my surprise, over the intervening weeks this little
"zoa" has swelled from 3-4mm in size to about 5cm or so and
has developed very distinctive green and pink bubble-tipped tentacles.
I started target
feeding him (her? it?) as soon as I realised with a mix of Cyclopeeze
and frozen phyto, it's quite a ravenous little thing.
My problem is I am unsure what to do with it now.
<Or what it actually is.>
It seems to be thriving under the current conditions, I would hate to
damage it but I don't like my chances of keeping it happy and
healthy in the long term in a 130 litre tank (I gather these guys
can/do grow quite
<Deeper water types can grow to 20 inches across while shallow water
specimens can span 12 inches across.>
It seems to have buried it's foot deep into the rock and the
research I've done suggests damage to the foot is to be
Thus I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to remove it - or indeed what
to do with it if I remove it.
<Remove the entire rock would be the safest way.>
Living up in the 'sticks' I purchase my livestock through mail
order, my nearest 'LFS' is over 3 hours away.
I do have a second tank, 3 weeks into it's cycle that I'd be
happy to dedicate to this colourful little hitchhiker, however this is
only an 80 litre tank. Do you think that an 80 litre is simply too
small, even with
the BTA as its sole inhabitant?
<The system is much too small for continued success with this animal
and they do not appreciate "new" systems.>
I suppose a bigger worry would be the inherent instability in a system
Any advice you could throw me would be a massive help, I'm at a bit
of a loss.
<You may want to read here.
<And to you my friend. James (Salty Dog)>
RBTA Split/Anemone Systems/Feeding
Hello friends and saviors,
This morning I came downstairs and my RBTA had split! At first I
thought this was a reason to celebrate but after reading your site for
the last few hours to learn more I'm a little nervous. I have it in
a 28 gallon Nano with LED hood. The daylights are on for about 8 hours
with moonlight the rest of the time (unfortunately the actinics are
broken, along with everyone else's apparently, so on
<Not to worry, actinics do not do much for photosynthesis.>
He's been in there for about 6 months (the tank is 1.5 years old)
with a little black ocellaris. He was the showpiece at the top center
but about a month ago moved down to the side-middle of the tank. He
gets pretty big throughout the day but is only fed about 3 times a
month with various parts of a silverside, which I'm also reading
here is not the best choice for him. What is, by the way? I know I need
to pick up some Selcon but what do you feed yours?
<May want to read here.
My tank parameters are great, salinity at 1.023 - 1.025.
<Mmm, only one water parameter?>
This seems to be the only thing that really fluctuates and it
doesn't seem that often. 25% water changes weekly and siphoning
every other week. Everything else in the tank is beautiful and
spreading/growing. What else...? I only have 3 fish---I did lose a
fuzzy lionfish recently that refused to eat ever since he was brought
home. I'm trying to think of anything that's changed and
nothing really had.
<Have you tried feeding the Lionfish live foods? Most will not
accept prepared foods, and, your tank is too small for this fish.
Have you read/researched here on this fish before purchasing?
Thanks for your response. Don't know what I'd do without you
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
My website name has changed 2/26/10
Hello from Karen , owner of Karensroseanemones.net
I have had to change my website name to .net from .com and hope that
you will be so kind as to change it on your WWM site so that everyone
will be sent in the correct direction when going to my site.
Thanks much, I appreciate your posting my site on your help page.
<Will try my hand at the "find-replace" command on WWM.
Thank you Karen.
Bubble tip anemone question, comp., no
I have a simple question, I hope.
Some tank info for help:
55 Gallon wide
Small Refugium (made from an HOT AquaClear 70 Power filter) with
(recently added x3 weeks ago).
40 lbs. LR (more to be steadily added as budget allows) Jebo 304
canister with 2 Eheim fine pads, Eheim sponge (course) pad, ceramic
Bio-ring and 2 bags of activated charcoal (one under each fine pad)
AquaTech 40-60 HOT Power filters with bio screens. Media is a simple
filter media with Activated Charcoal in both.
RedSea Prizm Skimmer
Last H2O change was 12 Jan. 10 and was ~13 gallons
Lighting: T5 HO x2 (one 54w Actinic / one 54w 6700K Life-Glo) (Both
bulbs just replaced x9 days ago)
Ocellaris Clown (x1)
McCosker's Flasher Wrasse (x4 males)
<All males? This won't work... see WWM re Cirrhilabrus
Mexican Turbo snail (x2)
Nassarius Snails (x2)
Porcelain Anemone Crab (x1)
Small Zoanthus colony
Small star Polyp Frag
Small Trumpet Frag
Various hitchhikers to include spaghetti worms, feather dusters (x3
that I know of)
Latest testing (all done with API test kits) this Date
pH (high): 8.3
I purchased a BTA (Entacmaea quadricolor) yesterday,
<... not a good idea to mix with other Cnidarians... Read here:
put it in my tank after an hour acclimation and it immediately blew
around the tank.
I hurriedly retrieved it to prevent it from hurting itself and placed
it near my live rock. Based on the ton of info on WWM As well as on
other sites, everything led me to think it would climb the rock, find
its new home and move on from there.
<Not likely enough, no>
I let it alone all evening and when I went to see where it decided to
call home I was surprised it had not moved one bit.
It actually anchored itself to a few pieces of rubble rock on the
It is 2/3's lying on substrate. Everything I read tells Me to not
move it around, so at this writing, it remains on the substrate.
Is this OK or dare I attempt to move it onto the rock someplace?
<Read please... I would not move this animal, except to another
I did fed frozen Mysis shrimp early today (thawed of course) and it
to have eaten it immediately. did not give much.
I am planning on getting some silversides this evening ten feeding a
small portion to see if it will eat it then base feeding schedule from
there since I have no idea when it was last fed.
It appears healthy, nice green color from the zooxanthellae (due to
lighting), absolutely no white and overall pinkish in color.
I am not sure if lighting is adequate but I suspect not.
<Can be w/ feeding... do please read WWM re>
A funny thing happened this AM right after feeding the Mysis shrimp. It
literally shrank and shriveled up to almost nothing.
This scared me greatly as I thought may the shrimp was still too cold
and hurt it. I left it alone and after a few hours started to bubble up
again. Now, almost 8 hours later, it is fully bloomed, looking
I have an Ocellaris clown who I hoped might host it but reading here
does not give me great hope of that as it is a tank raised species,
<Just have to wait, see>
and the type of bubble I have seems to be more of a maroon clown
Any chance at all it could work?
Last evening when I put it in the tank, the Ocellaris looked at it then
moved away. I deliberately placed it on the side of the tank the clown
seems to favor and last night after lights out the clown, for the first
time ever (have had now for 3months+) actually hid inside the rock as
opposed to hanging out near the front corner of the tank to rest. Why
would that be?
<... Read. Bob Fenner>
Newly acquired RBTA... cart, horse
turnaround -- 09/08/09
Hello WWM crew,
I'll start off with Tank Parameters:
90 gallon tank
70-90 #'s LR
~20 gallon sump with protein skimmer, 300W heater, and LR(no
Aquaclear 110 refugium
2 10K PC
2 Actinic PC
Hydor Koralia 4 (positioned near the top of the tank)
Poly Filter to help with diatoms (as well as the Mexican Turbos)
Actinics are on for 14 hours and 10k's are on for 10 All water
parameters are good and tank has been up for 7 months
Candy Cane Coral
1 peppermint shrimp
2 ocellaris clownfish
1 Sailfin Tang
1 purple pseudo
1 pajama cardinal
~12 Mexican Turbos for some diatom issues
~20 Astrea snails
2 sand sifting stars
I've just recently acquired a rose bubble tip anemone
<... not compatible to degrees with the other Cnidarian life you
and introduced it into my tank after some drip acclimation. I've
only had him for 4 days and have had some troubles. I've tried to
read as much as I could on your website about care (unfortunately after
I bought him). He was a clone from another persons tank and is about 3
inches in diameter. My trouble began the second night that I had him.
He was roaming about the tank,
which is to be expected. I checked on him before going to bed and
discovered him intertwined in the uptake for the Aquaclear
I promptly turned off the pump, detached the uptake tube, and set his
foot near the glass. He took hold of the glass and worked his way out.
I didn't do a thorough inspection to check for tearing, but he
seemed fine. The next two days I have disconnected the refugium at
night, when I can't watch him. He continued to wander about the
tank and has since last night settled in the back corner of the tank,
under a piece of rock with hardly any flow or light. He has been there
all day and I'm a little worried. Also, during his travels he came
in contact with almost all of the corals in the tank
and I'm not sure if this is okay.
I'm also concerned about the peppermint shrimp as he doesn't
seem to be compatible with anemones. I bought him to clear out some
aiptasia, which he did a long time ago. I just don't want him to
target the RBTA as an alternate food source. Any information or
suggestions will be welcome and helpful.
<... read: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above. This Entacmaea needs to live elsewhere. Bob
Re: Newly acquired RBTA
I'm a big fan of your website and book. Thank you very much for
your response; you've confirmed my initial fears. I am going to try
and keep him for a few more days and see if anything improves.
I removed the peppermint shrimp and re-aquascaped so that the anemone
has his own rock formation
with no impediments from the mushroom corals. My question is in regards
to his current behavior. I moved him to the rock formation
<Keep reading. I would not move>
and, by this morning, he has moved to the bottom of the pile and is
hiding under the very bottom rock. I checked him over yesterday for any
signs of distress (droopy mouth, signs of tearing), but there was none.
What is this current behavior and do you still think that I should find
him a new home?
<I would move this animal stat./now. BobF>
Re: Newly acquired RBTA 9/10/09
<Nick... are you reading?>
I appreciate the quick response and all of the resources you provide on
your site. I really would like to keep the RBTA and am willing to get
rid of the other cnidarians. Which would be best to remove or should I
remove them all? I promise this will be the last on this matter.
<The chemical et al mix that is in the present all-together system
is too toxic for the Actinarian... It really MUST be moved elsewhere
for right now, even if the other Cnid.s are to be vacated. B>
Re: Newly acquired RBTA 9/10/09
"<... read: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
> > > and the linked files above."
Thanks for the response and I'm sorry I wasn't understanding
what you were trying to say originally. I really have been reading as
much as I can, but didn't see anything about the system becoming
toxic after encounters and when to remove specimens. I will remove him
right away and would it be good to run activated carbon to absorb the
Anemone Tank 4/8/09
Don't really have a question, just want to say thanks and
give a picture of my healthy BTA. Your site contributes so much
to the health of my pets I just wanted to share a little for a
<Looks nice, Dean, and thank you for sharing. James (Salty