FAQs on Freshwater
Shrimp:
Atya, Atyoida; Family Atyidae; Mountain
& Rock Shrimps
Related Articles: Freshwater Crustaceans, Invertebrates for Freshwater Aquariums by
Neale Monks, Forget
Crawfish Pie, Let's Make a Crawfish Tank! By Gage
Harford
Related FAQs: FW Shrimp 1, &
FAQs on: FW Shrimp Identification,
FW Shrimp Behavior, FW Shrimp Compatibility, FW Shrimp Selection, FW Shrimp Systems, FW Shrimp Feeding, FW Shrimp Disease, FW Shrimp Reproduction, & Shrimp by
Family, Genus, Species: Atyids: Genera Caridina & Neocaridina
(Japanese Marsh, Yamato Numa Ebi, or Amano Shrimp, Bumble/Bee,
Crystal), Genus Atyopsis
(Bamboo, Wood Shrimps), Freshwater/Brackish/Marine
Palaemonidae Rafinesque, 1815 & FAQs on: Palaemonetes (Ghost/Grass/Glass
Shrimp), Macrobrachium
(Blue "Lobsters), & FW Crustaceans 1, FW Crustaceans 2, FW Crustaceans 3, FW Crustaceans 4,
& & FAQs on:
FW Crustacean Identification,
FW Crustacean
Behavior, FW Crustacean
Compatibility, FW Crustacean
Selection, FW Crustacean
Systems, FW Crustacean Feeding,
FW Crustacean Disease, FW Crustacean Reproduction &
Terrestrial Hermit Crabs,
Hermit ID, Hermit Behavior, Hermit Compatibility, Hermit Selection, Hermit Systems, Hermit Feeding, Hermit Reproduction, Hermit Disease/Health, &
Crayfish FAQs, Crayfish 2, Crayfish ID, Crayfish Behavior, Crayfish Compatibility, Crayfish Selection, Crayfish Systems, Crayfish Feeding, Crayfish Disease, Crayfish Reproduction,
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Taiwan bee shrimp breeding 12/26/17
hey, i have a question about breeding Taiwan bees.
<Fire away.>
i am keeping Neocaridina spp., but i have decided to upgrade to the
finer shrimps.
<Not sure what you mean by "finer" here. Do you mean the more expensive,
difficult to breed shrimps? Or simply the smaller shrimps?>
i don't know much on the biology of breeding Taiwan bees, but my friend
gave me some of his shadow pandas and snow white bees. i know you
shouldn't mix Neocaridina spp, but can you put these two in the same
tank without
interbreeding?
<It is unwise to mix any species from the same genera. So mixing
Caridina species is a bad idea. While some species might not hybridise,
I don't think there's enough evidence to give a categorical "yes" or
"no".
Experience of Neocaridina is certainly that these species frequently
hybridise. Furthermore, most of the 'fancy' Caridina shrimps are simply
selected (i.e., artificially bred) varieties of a single species,
Caridina cantonensis. Mixing these in the same tank will definitely
result in hybrids. Taiwan Bees, Crystal Reds and Royal Blues are all
tank-bred forms of Caridina cantonensis. (Caridina cantonensis is,
incidentally, very variable in the wild, Red Tigers and Crystal Blacks
being names we've given to naturally occurring forms.>
i just want snow white bees and shadow pandas, no mixes.
<Both of these are artificial forms of Caridina cantonensis. So yes,
they will cross breed happily.>
also, will shadow pandas eventually turn into something else, like a
black king Kong? what about the snow white bees?
<Good quality artificial forms should "breed true", being homozygous
with regard to particular colouration and patterning genes. This means
that if you have, for example, a tank of Shadow Panda Shrimps, all the
offspring should be Shadow Pandas. Doesn't always work this way of the
quality isn't good, and some specimens are heterozygous. Anything
recessive, not showing up in the original parental, or P, generation,
may turn up in the F1
generation.>
will they turn into golden bees? i don't mind golden bees, but will they
turn into something else? i read several breeding charts but they are
telling me different things.
<Well, hope the above helps. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Taiwan bee shrimp breeding 12/27/17
What would happen if you cross breed them? Will you get Blue Bolts?
<Off the top of my head, no idea. But I can tell you if you say "thanks"
people put a lot more effort into things like replies to questions!
Cheers and beers, Neale.>
Re: Taiwan bee shrimp breeding 12/27/17
sorry for my rudeness, i just had more questions that I forgot to
include.
<No problem.>
I'm only an eight year old kid so... hopefully that's good enough excuse
lol.
<I guess...>
Got more to learn i guess. but jokes aside, so if not blue bolts, what
will they turn into if they interbreed?
<Incredibly hard to predict. Yes, new varieties are produced by
cross-breeding existing varieties. But more often than not, this sort of
cross-breeding causes the shrimps to return to something more similar to
the wild shrimps. Why? Because artificial varieties have specific sets
of alleles (i.e., versions of genes) that tend to be all jumbled up in
the wild type. Think about dogs. Labradors, poodles, greyhounds all have
different sub-sets of genes found in wolves. When producing greyhounds,
people chose the best genes for running fast. But put all those dogs
together on an island, and then come back in ten years and you'll find
not Labradors, poodles and greyhounds -- but wolf-like dogs that have
sort of "averaged out" all the different genes those three dog breeds
originally had. Make sense? So while cross-breeding labs and poodles has
created labradoodles, mostly cross-breeding dogs ends up with mutts. Do
Google "Caridina cantonensis family tree" to get a lovely chart showing
how the different varieties are related.>
cuz if it is something cool, then i won't mind mixing them together. i
kinda don't like the look of a divider.
<An option.>
again, sorry for the rudeness, i just wasn't done asking questions, my
bad.
on the other hand, thank you very much!
<Most welcome. Neale.>
Re: Taiwan bee shrimp breeding 12/27/17
ok, now i got my info, i have some final questions. so, according to the
chart, low grade crystal reds will eventually turn into snow white bees
after a time of selective breeding.
<Presumably, but I think that assumes you actively select shrimps that
look more and more like Snow White shrimps at each generation. If you
just allow "low grade" Crystal Reds (which presumably means they're not
true-breeding)
to breed amongst themselves, you're simply going to end up with more low
grade Crystal Reds.>
i know you said that good quality forms will keep its pattern.
<True-breeding is the phrase you're looking for. Homozygous is the
technical term. If both parents ONLY have the desired genes (and
remember, every animal has two copies of each gene) then whatever
happens, they'll produce offspring with only those genes. True-breeding
animals are expensive for this reason, and oftentimes breeders won't
release one of the sexes. So if you were a Taiwanese shrimp breeder, you
might only sell true-breeding males. This means anyone else would have
to cross those true-breeding shrimps with some "mutt" shrimp of unknown
genetics, and hope some of the offspring were what you wanted. While
that'd work, the resulting offspring wouldn't be true-breeding. It'd
take years to establish a true-breeding line, which costs time and
money. This all helps that Taiwanese guy maximise his income from his
hard work, while ensuring nobody else can "cash in" from it.>
however, for example like shadow pandas, wouldn't the blue become more
dominant over time?
<Not necessarily. Very simply, suppose there are two alleles for colour,
which we'll call "R" for "red", and "r" for "blue". Each shrimp gets two
copies of this gene, one from its mom, one from its dad. If those
parents are true-breeding blues, they'd both have "rr" as their two
copies, so whatever genes they passed onto their offspring, the only
possible combination would be "rr", so all the offspring would be blue.
With me so far? Now suppose they're non-true breeding reds. Then the two
parents could both be "Rr". Mom could pass on either an "R" or an "r",
and dad could also pass on either an "R" or an "r". For any given four
baby shrimps, on average, one would get the combination "RR" from the
two parents, two babies would get "Rr", and one baby "rr". In other
words, one would be a true-breeding red, two non-true-breeding reds, and
one a true-breeding blue. This basic idea is called the Mendelian
Inheritance, and in the UK at least, we teach it in high school. Often
the kids think it's pretty irrelevant to day-to-day life, but as you can
see, the moment you start breeding animals or plants, it becomes really
important! Crucially, traits don't vanish even if they skip a generation
-- those baby shrimps that were non-breeding reds might look red to us,
but they could produce blue shrimps when they bred among themselves.>
to the point where you see no black?
<As explained, breeding animals isn't like mixing paint. Unless you
actively select the darkest shrimps with each generation, and only breed
those, then Mendelian Inheritance takes over, and you get roughly the
same proportions of alleles (the different versions of genes) from one
generation to the next.>
I do like the mix of black and light blue, rather than just light blue.
what about the snow whites? since they are the highest grade possible,
will they just stay like that?
<Only if they are true breeding.>
thanks
<Welcome. Neale.>
Re: Taiwan bee shrimp breeding 12/27/17
ok, so im guessing that finding a pair (preferably more) of shrimp with
the homozygous traits that i want, is basically a gamble then. am i
right?
<Indeed. But good quality strains sold as true breeding should be
homozygous for the traits you want. If they're sold as true breeding,
then by definition, any offspring will be more or less identical to
their parents.>
or is there a way to tell, which im guessing there isn't,
<Some traits are only seen in the homozygous state. For example, blue
eyes in humans are always homozygous because the blue-eye allele is
recessive:
two blue-eyed parents will normally only produce blue-eyed children. By
contrast, the brown-eye allele is dominant. So brown-eye people could
have two brown-eye alleles, or one brown and one blue-eye allele. As
such, two brown-eye people can, and do, produce blue-eye children,
potentially up to 25% of the time if both parents are heterozygous. So:
you'd need to establish (perhaps reading online, or asking on pet shrimp
forums) which traits (such as colours or stripes) are caused by
recessive alleles, and therefore only seen in homozygous shrimps. Get
those shrimps, and they should be true-breeding, right from the start!>
especially purchasing online.
<Indeed.>
btw thank you very much, i learned a lot about biology today,
considering that i am very young.
<Glad to help, and good to know you're open to learning new stuff. Have
fun! Neale.>
Vampire Shrimp
9/13/12
Hello, I have read the discussions on this shrimp on your website
already however it does not fix my problem. I have a 26 Gallon community
tank with Rummynose Tetras, Ghost Shrimp, Amano Shrimp, Zebra Danios and
Galaxy Danios. I recently added a Bamboo Shrimp which was shy to come
out in the open for the first two days but I saw her in the back of the
tank amongst the plants and wood. She is now out in the open almost all
the time and feeding in the current. I give her crushed flakes when I
see her in the direct water flow. My problem is, however, that I
purchased soon after a vampire shrimp and I saw "him" the first day
after acclimating him in the shadow of the driftwood fanning. However
"he" then vanished. I have not seen even a glimpse or sign of "him" in
about 3 days. I want to make sure he is eating but can't because I don't
even know if he is alive. What should I do? I don't want to stress him,
if he is still alive, by moving things in the tank to look for him. I
read on another forum that someone had the same problem and the shrimp
did not show up for 6 weeks and when it did it was to die! :(
<Vampire Shrimps (Atya gabonensis) are African filter-feeding shrimps
that naturally inhabit clean, oxygen-rich, moderately fast-flowing
streams.
While they can do well in aquaria, you do need to understand their
requirements. Given the choice, they'll normally move towards the area
with fastest water movement. Like any other filter-feeder, they do need
regular supplemental feeding and can't be left to "scavenge" in the same
way as you can with algae-eating shrimps (such as Amano shrimps).
Starvation is a very common problem, and if the shrimp hasn't been
properly fed by the retailer, it might be very underweight by the time
you buy it, and that in turn means any additional stresses could easily
kill it. On top of this, Atya species are strong jumpers and easily able
to jump out of the aquarium. So, bottom line, yes, check your aquarium
thoroughly, moving rocks and plants if needed. If that doesn't help,
look for its remains -- if it died, the other shrimps and any scavenging
fish and snails could easily have eaten some of its body, so it might
not be obvious. Finally, look around the outside of the tank and on the
carpet. Any small gaps in the hood could easily be an escape route for a
shrimp that made a lucky/unlucky leap. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Vampire Shrimp
Thank you for the advice I hope I find him
<Most welcome. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Vampire Shrimp
9/13/12
EXCELLENT NEWS! I was looking around again trying to see every angle of
my piece of wood and I saw fans at first I was sure it would be the
bamboo but then I saw her elsewhere!!! I'm so excited! Now to keep these
guys healthy
I need to go and buy iodine. I have Fluval shrimp minerals but it
doesn't say it contains iodine.
<Indeed, good news. Fluval shrimp mineral mix is apparently calcium
chloride, which will help buffer the water and provide good material for
their shells, but as you say, won't do much in terms of the
iodide/iodate salts many crustaceans need. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Vampire Shrimp 9/13/12
Thank you for all the help! One last question, if I have a fairly
heavily planted tank and use a CO2 injector should I run an air pump for
the Vampire shrimp or will the plants make enough oxygen?
<An air pump will drive off the CO2, so the combination doesn't make
much sense! For now, carry on with the CO2 on its own, and see what
happens.
Provided the aquarium isn't heavily stocked, and the plants are growing
well and photosynthesising happily, you shouldn't have any problems.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Vampire Shrimp 9/13/12
Alright sorry one more question, since you are well versed in aquarium
care. I have some rocks from outside I want to add to my tank. I put
each one in vinegar to see if they fizzed and the two that did I wont
use. The others seemed not to react. Is it safe if I soak the rocks for
a couple days and then put them in my tank or do I need to monitor the
pH of the water and test the rocks with muriatic acid and hydrochloric
acid (from nitrate test)?
<If the rock doesn't fizz, then it's lime-free. But you've also got to
make sure the rock is non-toxic. Look out for metallic seams, for
example. As a general rule, buy rocks known to be aquarium safe (or pond
safe, that's just as good, and often cheaper). Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Vampire Shrimp 9/14/12
Okay, I will look for some rocks at the LFS and keep these ones for my
outdoor fountain. Thanks again:)
<Doesn't have to be your LFS. Rocks (such as slate and granite) are
widely sold in garden centres for a fraction of the cost IDENTICAL rocks
are sold at aquarium shops. That's where I get mine! Cheers, Neale.>
Question about Atya gabonesis, hlth.
2/25/09 I had a vampire shrimp (Atya) about five weeks and he
seemed fine until we moved him to a larger tank. After a few days he
started turning more orange/pink instead of bluish gray. and he seemed
fine. The last few days he started turning more orange/pinky looking
instead of bluish gray. He was seen out and about eating, etc, then
started lying on his side. He appeared to be trying to molt (wriggling
about, shell cracked open) but lie on his side twitching for hours. We
went to bed and in the morning, he had molted but was dead, his shell
beside him. He seemed unmolested by the other fish in the tank. Is this
common when shrimp molt? Our LFS told us we needed "trace
elements" in the water to help them and sold us a bottle of some
magic solution we're supposed to put in every few days. I bought
another the next day and substituted him (it was my son's shrimp
and I didn't want him to be sad it died). This shrimp was slightly
larger and bluer and more active. We've had him about 9 days now
and yesterday he started looking a bit pink/orange but this guy laid on
his side only a minute wiggling about then shot out like a cannon,
leaving his entire shell, feathers, feelers and all on the floor, he is
pink and new now, with blue only around his head. He's been sitting
in the back preening and waving his antennae around, occasionally
venturing out. I'm quite happy he molting without dying, do you
think it was the extra minerals we added to his water or do you think
the other guy was traumatized from the move, or just had a "bad
molt"? I'm anxious to avoid any bad molts in the future and
I'm hoping this guy is fine from now on, we're really quite
fond of him. He lives in a 40 gallon planted shrimp and snail only tank
with a bamboo shrimp, 10 cherry shrimp, 3 ghost shrimp and 3 mystery
snails. The fish were moved out to another 20 gallon tank bare hospital
tank to combat a case of ich, I found that easier to do that ruining my
landscaping, plants and shrimp/snails. Which leads to my next question:
how long to leave the tank fallow to ensure ich is completely gone
before putting more fish in? I've read anywhere from 1 to 6 weeks
which is quite a range. I have no plans on doing anything other than
routine water changes and gravel vacuums, I don't want to medicate
it. Melissa <Hi Melissa. The "trace element" they need is
Iodine. While it isn't clear that small (e.g., Cherry) shrimps need
iodine added to the water, big shrimps as well as crayfish and crabs
apparently do benefit. Normally the moulting process begins with the
shrimp out of sight for a day or two in its cave as it puffs up its
body with water. The moult itself takes a few hours, and then the
shrimp stays hidden in its cave for another day or so while the shell
hardens up. It should roll on its back or side, and shouldn't be
twitching. Normally all it does is stand up as it usually does, but
with the shell peeling off its body from head to tail. In any case, if
your shrimp is fine now, then I wouldn't worry too much. As for
Whitespot/Ick; the length of time the tank should be fallow varies with
temperature and whether you're taking about freshwater or marine
Whitespot. In theory freshwater Whitespot parasites can only survive
about 24 hours without a host, but in practise it's better to leave
a much more generous period than that. One week would probably work
fine for tropical tanks. You will of course need to ensure Whitespot
parasites can't get into the tank from anywhere else, so take care
with nets, buckets, etc. Cheers, Neale.>
The King of Freshwater Shrimp Someone on my message board was
looking for info on these guys. <Would you mind sending
along a link to the discussion? I would be very, very
interested in participating....> I searched all over the web myself
and can't find anything but a single picture. I was
wondering if you could help me out a bit here with some info on these
really neat looking shrimp. Their common name I guess is
Vampire Shrimp and the scientific name is Attya gabonese. <Ahh, Atya
gabonensis! Dear me, these are my ALL-TIME FAVORITE shrimp -
and that's saying a lot, with my major shrimp
addiction!! I have never heard of them being called
"vampire shrimp", though. In fact, I do not
believe there are *any* widely used common names for this
animal. Try a search under the accurate Latin name, this
should yield some pics. The only good, solid information
available on the web is located at: http://www.wirbellose.de/arten.cgi?action=show&artNo=030
. This is in German, so it may or may not be of much help to
you. You can translate the page (somewhat) at Google, using
their language tools. Some basic info - they get about
6" long at their largest. Juveniles are orange, females
(and possibly sub-dominant males?) are grayish-brownish-bluish, and the
big head honcho male will get lustrous black and blue. They
are a filter feeder, and are of absolutely no threat to even tiny fish
or fry. There are actually perhaps even three or four
different animals that fall under this name somewhat
loosely.... can be found in eastern South America with some
variances from their central-western African cousins. As
with all filter-feeding shrimp, these MUST be fed in the aquarium; it
is a common misconception that the animals will take what they need
from the water - our tanks are simply too pristine for that to
happen. Sinking foods which break up into a fine dust, or
frozen foods that can be mushed up (I like Ocean Nutrition's
Formula One and Two for this) are great. These shrimp are
largely nocturnal and very shy. Provide them with a lot of
rocky places where they can hide - stressed shrimp are *not* long-lived
shrimp. To facilitate seeing them once in a while (again,
VERY nocturnal), provide with subdued lighting, or lots of floating
plants to block out some of the light. They prefer to have
areas of open substrate that are not planted, as well; they are quite
clumsy. Lastly, and perhaps most important with these and
any other freshwater shrimp - please dose your tank with iodine. I use
Kent's marine iodine at a rate of one drop per ten gallons every
week (NOT the marine dose!). This really, really, REALLY
makes all the difference in the world. Another tidbit - I
got mine from Toyin at Rehoboth Aquatics ( http://www.rehobothaquatics.com/
). They were (still are) in EXCELLENT shape and great
health. They had poked holes in the nice, thick bag (double
bagged) with their pointy legs and all but a couple tablespoons of
water had leaked out, but they still did absolutely fine. He
is a wholesaler, and may possibly have a store near you that you can
get these from, and if not, he may sell to you
directly. Another 'site you should check
out: http://www.franksaquarium.com/ - he
has several species of not-very-common freshwater shrimp, and has been
an invaluable source of info for me, too.> Thank you in advance for
any help you can give. <Ahh, no, thank YOU for giving me
a chance to discuss my favorite critter! As uncommon as they
are in the US, it is WONDERFUL to hear of increasing interest in
them.> Regards, Kristen <Wishing you
well, -Sabrina>
The King of Freshwater Shrimp - II - 03/01/2004 Thank you
soooo much for all the info on these really neat little
critters. <You bet. And again, thanks for
mailing us. I could talk the ears off of corn regarding
these shrimp.> Here's a link to the thread on my message
board.
http://www.aquatiqterrors.com/forums/index.php?s=248e4199c7eb812b3d38122b7b82f115&act=ST&f=46&t=15336&st=0&
<Excellent. I've joined (am "vintage_fish")
and hope to chat there!> Thanks again, Kristen. <And thank you
for helping to increase interest in these awesome little
beasties. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
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