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| FAQs on Freshwater
Shrimp Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
Related Articles: Freshwater Crustaceans, Invertebrates
for Freshwater Aquariums by Neale Monks,
Forget Crawfish Pie, Let's Make a
Crawfish Tank! By Gage Harford
Related FAQs: FW Shrimp 1,
FW Shrimp 2, & FAQs on:
FW Shrimp Identification,
FW Shrimp Behavior, FW
Shrimp Compatibility, FW Shrimp Selection,
FW Shrimp Systems, FW
Shrimp Disease,
FW Shrimp Reproduction, &
Shrimp by Family, Genus, Species: Atyids:
Genera Caridina & Neocaridina
(Japanese Marsh, Yamato Numa Ebi, or Amano Shrimp, Bumble/Bee, Crystal),
Genus Atyopsis (Bamboo, Wood Shrimps),
Genera Attya, Atya, Atyoida
(Mountain, Rock Shrimps), Freshwater/Brackish/Marine Palaemonidae
Rafinesque, 1815 & FAQs on: Palaemonetes
(Ghost/Grass/Glass Shrimp),
Macrobrachium (Blue "Lobsters), &
FW Crustaceans 1, FW
Crustaceans 2, FW Crustaceans 3,
FW Crustaceans 4,
&
& FAQs on: FW Crustacean
Identification,
FW Crustacean Behavior,
FW Crustacean Compatibility,
FW Crustacean Selection,
FW Crustacean Systems,
FW Crustacean Feeding,
FW Crustacean Disease,
FW Crustacean Reproduction &
Terrestrial
Hermit Crabs,
Hermit ID,
Hermit Behavior, Hermit
Compatibility, Hermit Selection,
Hermit Systems, Hermit Feeding,
Hermit Reproduction, Hermit
Disease/Health, &
Crayfish FAQs,
Crayfish 2,
Crayfish ID,
Crayfish Behavior,
Crayfish Compatibility,
Crayfish Selection,
Crayfish Systems,
Crayfish Feeding,
Crayfish Disease,
Crayfish Reproduction,
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Food for Bamboo Shrimp 10/2/08
Hello. I'm always using your site for various information but I could not find
the info I needed so I decided to ask you. I have a 60 gallon freshwater tank
and I have 3 Bamboo shrimp. (I had 4 but 1 suddenly passed away 1 week after
purchase). <These are Atys or Atyopsis spp.; the most common species is
Atyopsis mollucensis. Like all shrimps, they are sensitive to a few things that
don't necessarily bother fish, most notably copper. So be sure and treat the
water with copper-removing water conditioner (most brands do this anyway) and
avoid using copper-based medications in the tank. As with a marine reef tank,
you need to quarantine new livestock before adding them to the community tank
with the shrimps.> I religiously do my water changes of about 30-40% every
other week and my ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites are always at 0. I keep the
tank at about 78F. <Slightly warmer than I'd recommend; 25C/77F is best for
most tropical fish anyway, and with shrimps being particularly sensitive to poor
oxygen concentration, raising the water temperature has the potential to stress
these animals (warm water contains less oxygen).> My tank has been going for
about 1yr now. I have had the 3 for about a month and they seem to be doing
well, and 1 had its first molt the other day (no I do not add iodine to my water
but I plan on buying some in the next few days). <Good; while iodine seems to
be less of an issue with shrimps than crabs or crayfish, it won't do any harm.>
Anyways, they seem to be eating ok but I do not want them to prematurely pass
away and I read on your page that they like macroalgae (the kind you feed
corals) bc they don't usually get the nutrients they need just from the water.
(I crumble fish food to a dust and drop it in along with frozen baby brine
shrimp). Anywho, my question is this: can I buy macroalgae @ my LFS to feed to
the shrimp <Yes; "herbivore flake food" is based on algae, often Spirulina.
Algae wafers, such as those fed to Plecs, contain algae as well. Do also
remember Sushi Nori, widely sold even in British supermarkets, as well as Asian
food stores, is good quality algae ideally suited to feeding fish and
invertebrates.> or are there other things u suggest other than food that
dissolves to a powder (what brand/kind do you suggest of that)? Also is there a
such thing as freshwater microorganisms I can buy to stock my tank (kinda like
saltwater tanks and copepods?) <Usually not necessarily to do this. Atyopsis
will usually find enough to eat in big tanks, provided at least some food is
left out for them and not eaten by catfish or loaches. Periodically using a
pipette or turkey baster to squirt a suspension of finely powdered flake food or
even drops of Liquifry-type baby fish food will augment their diet well. Do this
a couple times per week, or more if you want, but do take care not to put so
much food in the water you cause water quality problems. Less is more!>
Thanks for your help its always appreciated. <Cheers, Neale.>
Cleaner Shrimp Question, FW 3/28/07
Hi Crew, I've written two or three times previously regarding my 150 gal
planted tank. It used to house 2 large pond fish, then I realized I just
couldn't keep up with their messiness. Last summer I gave away the pond fish
and added tropical fish and plants. The tank is stocked with a red-tailed
shark, 7 gold barbs, 9 SAEs, 6 Otocinclus and 11 kuhli loaches. About a month
ago I added 3 algae eating shrimp, one pretty good sized and 2 smaller. Since
they immediately went into hiding I almost forgot they were in there. Till
about a week ago. I've tried hard not to overfeed the fish so once a day I give
them Hikari micropellets and I toss in one sinking wafer. Once or twice a week
I supplement their diet with frozen brine shrimp or blood worms. Anyway, last
week after I tossed in the wafer, the larger of the shrimp scurried out of
hiding and snatched it away.
<Heee. Typical>
He/she scurried back into hiding leaving the loaches searching for the wafer. I
thought it was pretty funny and threw in another wafer for the loaches. The
same thing has happened every feeding since. As soon as I throw in the wafer
the shrimp appears and makes off with it. However, I started wondering if that
was defeating the whole purpose of having algae-eating shrimp. Would it be
better to stop feeding wafers and just feed more micropellets, or just let the
shrimp have the wafers?
<Mmm, I would keep proffering the wafers... these shrimp are not really "cleaner
uppers" in captive systems>
I used to break up the wafers but then the barbs would grab the pieces and the
loaches were left searching for the wafer. I know this is kind of a silly
problem, but I'd like to make the best decision possible. Thanks a lot, Kerry
<Perhaps a wafer placed at both ends of the system at the same time... will
grant all a bit? "Just one thin little wafer..." This last for Graham and his
Monty Python fix! Bob Fenner>
Bamboo shrimp, green water 9/28/07
Hello -
I am raising plants in a tank that gets 2.5+ hours of direct sunlight a day
(it is a bit of an experiment on my part). Surprise, surprise, I've get a
green water problem. While the plants seem to be slowly winning, I thought I
would accelerate the process by introducing a bamboo shrimp. He appears to
be happily eating. My question: is he eating the single-celled algae that
are the green water, or is he *just* eating the daphnia that are the other
animal I introduced to try to combat the greenness. Thanks!
-- Greg
<Hello Greg. The answer is a little from Column A, a little from Column B.
Atyopsis spp. shrimps are opportunistic feeders, and will take both
zooplankton and phytoplankton. They also eat decaying organic matter, which
in terms of aquarium husbandry means they happily eat things like catfish
pellets and algae wafers. If you're looking for a way to turn green water
clear, Atyopsis almost certainly *won't* do that. They just don't strain the
water efficiently enough at the size bracket of things like planktonic green
algae. The true phytoplankton specialists in freshwater ecosystems are
things like bivalves at the large scale and planktonic crustaceans
(including Daphnia) at the small scale. Cheers, Neale>
Re: bamboo shrimp, green
water – 10/09/07
Thanks for the input. Interestingly, the water has gotten much less green
since the shrimp's introduction, and he is producing poo pellets at a riotous
rate. Perhaps phytoplankton species come in different sizes, and he is filtering
out the larger varieties? If you are interested, I'll keep you apprised on how
the experiment goes.
-- Greg
<Hi Greg, Thanks for the update! I imagine the water is getting less green for
other reasons than the shrimp (typically, "green water" comes and goes in
blooms). But if you're finding evidence to the contrary, so much the better.
Useful to know, and share with others in similar situations. And yes, do let me
know how things work out in the long term. Cheers, Neale>
Re: bamboo shrimp, green
water – 10/09/07
Thanks for the input. Interestingly, the water has gotten much less green
since the shrimp's introduction, and he is producing poo pellets at a riotous
rate. Perhaps phytoplankton species come in different sizes, and he is filtering
out the larger varieties? If you are interested, I'll keep you apprised on how
the experiment goes.
-- Greg
<Hi Greg, Thanks for the update! I imagine the water is getting less green for
other reasons than the shrimp (typically, "green water" comes and goes in
blooms). But if you're finding evidence to the contrary, so much the better.
Useful to know, and share with others in similar situations. And yes, do let me
know how things work out in the long term. Cheers, Neale>
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Ghost Shrimp
Hi! Can you tell me what ghost shrimp eat?
<Just about anything you offer them meat based.>
Thanks, David Muir
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Iodine And Freshwater Shrimp - 12/15/2004
I recently picked up some ghost shrimp for my two aquariums.
<Yay, welcome to the world of freshwater crustaceans!!>
All is well, but I want to be prepared for molting if/when it occurs.
<No "if" about it - ghosties molt a lot and often.>
I know iodine is important for crustaceans. Is there some sort of Iodine
supplement the shrimp will need or is the weekly 10-20% water change I do going
to be enough for them?
<Some SERIOUS kudos to you for thinking of this! Yes, freshwater shrimp require
iodine to facilitate calcium uptake and successful molting. Though you *might*
be able to get by with your regular water changes alone, I have found that
adding iodine *dramatically* reduces the chance of a "bad molt". Before adding
iodine to my tanks, I would lose a few shrimp each month. After adding iodine,
I haven't lost any shrimp to bad molts, that I know of - and they started
breeding right away, as well. I use, and heartily recommend, Kent marine
iodine, at a rate of one drop per ten gallons each week. This amount may seem
insignificant, but it has proven seriously beneficial in my tanks.>
I feed a varied diet of plant and animal foods, they also have in the tank a
piece of real driftwood and several species of live plants.
<Sounds perfect.>
Thanks for your help guys! :-) (Almost forgot, they are also in the tank with
some Zebra Danios and Otocinclus algae eaters in one tank, and a Betta and
Otocinclus in the other tank.)
<All sounds good. Wishing you and your shrimp well, -Sabrina>
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