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FAQs on Freshwater Shrimp Foods/Feeding/Nutrition

Related Articles: Freshwater CrustaceansInvertebrates for Freshwater Aquariums by Neale Monks, Forget Crawfish Pie, Let's Make a Crawfish Tank! By Gage Harford

Related FAQs: FW Shrimp 1, FW Shrimp 2, & FAQs on: FW Shrimp Identification, FW Shrimp Behavior, FW Shrimp Compatibility, FW Shrimp Selection, FW Shrimp Systems, FW Shrimp Disease, FW Shrimp Reproduction, & Shrimp by Family, Genus, Species: Atyids: Genera Caridina & Neocaridina (Japanese Marsh, Yamato Numa Ebi, or Amano Shrimp, Bumble/Bee, Crystal), Genus Atyopsis (Bamboo, Wood Shrimps), Genera Attya, Atya, Atyoida (Mountain, Rock Shrimps), Freshwater/Brackish/Marine Palaemonidae Rafinesque, 1815 & FAQs on: Palaemonetes (Ghost/Grass/Glass Shrimp), Macrobrachium (Blue "Lobsters), & FW Crustaceans 1FW Crustaceans 2, FW Crustaceans 3, FW Crustaceans 4, & & FAQs on: FW Crustacean Identification, FW Crustacean Behavior, FW Crustacean Compatibility, FW Crustacean Selection, FW Crustacean Systems, FW Crustacean Feeding, FW Crustacean Disease, FW Crustacean Reproduction & Terrestrial Hermit Crabs, Hermit ID, Hermit Behavior, Hermit Compatibility, Hermit Selection, Hermit Systems, Hermit Feeding, Hermit Reproduction, Hermit Disease/Health, & Crayfish FAQs, Crayfish 2, Crayfish ID, Crayfish Behavior, Crayfish Compatibility, Crayfish Selection, Crayfish Systems, Crayfish Feeding, Crayfish Disease, Crayfish Reproduction,

 

Food for Bamboo Shrimp 10/2/08
Hello. I'm always using your site for various information but I could not find the info I needed so I decided to ask you. I have a 60 gallon freshwater tank and I have 3 Bamboo shrimp. (I had 4 but 1 suddenly passed away 1 week after purchase).
<These are Atys or Atyopsis spp.; the most common species is Atyopsis mollucensis. Like all shrimps, they are sensitive to a few things that don't necessarily bother fish, most notably copper. So be sure and treat the water with copper-removing water conditioner (most brands do this anyway) and avoid using copper-based medications in the tank. As with a marine reef tank, you need to quarantine new livestock before adding them to the community tank with the shrimps.>
I religiously do my water changes of about 30-40% every other week and my ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites are always at 0. I keep the tank at about 78F.
<Slightly warmer than I'd recommend; 25C/77F is best for most tropical fish anyway, and with shrimps being particularly sensitive to poor oxygen concentration, raising the water temperature has the potential to stress these animals (warm water contains less oxygen).>
My tank has been going for about 1yr now. I have had the 3 for about a month and they seem to be doing well, and 1 had its first molt the other day (no I do not add iodine to my water but I plan on buying some in the next few days).
<Good; while iodine seems to be less of an issue with shrimps than crabs or crayfish, it won't do any harm.>
Anyways, they seem to be eating ok but I do not want them to prematurely pass away and I read on your page that they like macroalgae (the kind you feed corals) bc they don't usually get the nutrients they need just from the water. (I crumble fish food to a dust and drop it in along with frozen baby brine shrimp). Anywho, my question is this: can I buy macroalgae @ my LFS to feed to the shrimp
<Yes; "herbivore flake food" is based on algae, often Spirulina. Algae wafers, such as those fed to Plecs, contain algae as well. Do also remember Sushi Nori, widely sold even in British supermarkets, as well as Asian food stores, is good quality algae ideally suited to feeding fish and invertebrates.>
or are there other things u suggest other than food that dissolves to a powder (what brand/kind do you suggest of that)? Also is there a such thing as freshwater microorganisms I can buy to stock my tank (kinda like saltwater tanks and copepods?)
<Usually not necessarily to do this. Atyopsis will usually find enough to eat in big tanks, provided at least some food is left out for them and not eaten by catfish or loaches. Periodically using a pipette or turkey baster to squirt a suspension of finely powdered flake food or even drops of Liquifry-type baby fish food will augment their diet well. Do this a couple times per week, or more if you want, but do take care not to put so much food in the water you cause water quality problems. Less is more!>
Thanks for your help its always appreciated.
<Cheers, Neale.>

Cleaner Shrimp Question, FW   3/28/07
Hi Crew,  I've written two or three times previously regarding my 150 gal planted tank.  It used to house 2 large pond fish, then I realized I just couldn't keep up with their messiness.  Last summer I gave away the pond fish and added tropical fish and plants.  The tank is stocked with a red-tailed shark, 7 gold barbs, 9 SAEs, 6 Otocinclus and 11 kuhli loaches.  About a month ago I added 3 algae eating shrimp, one pretty good sized and 2 smaller.  Since they immediately went into hiding I almost forgot they were in there.  Till about a week ago.  I've tried hard not to overfeed the fish so once a day I give them Hikari micropellets and I toss in one sinking wafer.  Once or twice a week I supplement their diet with frozen brine shrimp or blood worms.  Anyway, last week after I tossed in the wafer,  the larger of the shrimp scurried out of hiding and snatched it away.
<Heee. Typical>
He/she scurried back into hiding leaving the loaches searching for the wafer.  I thought it was pretty funny and threw in another wafer for the loaches.  The same thing has happened every feeding since.  As soon as I throw in the wafer the shrimp appears and makes off with it.  However,  I started wondering if that was defeating the whole purpose of having algae-eating shrimp.  Would it be better to stop feeding wafers and just feed more micropellets, or just let the shrimp have the wafers?
<Mmm, I would keep proffering the wafers... these shrimp are not really "cleaner uppers" in captive systems>
I used to break up the wafers but then the barbs would grab the pieces and the loaches were left searching for the wafer.   I know this is kind of a silly problem, but I'd like to make the best decision possible.  Thanks a lot,  Kerry
<Perhaps a wafer placed at both ends of the system at the same time... will grant all a bit? "Just one thin little wafer..." This last for Graham and his Monty Python fix! Bob Fenner>

Bamboo shrimp, green water   9/28/07
Hello -
I am raising plants in a tank that gets 2.5+ hours of direct sunlight a day (it is a bit of an experiment on my part). Surprise, surprise, I've get a green water problem. While the plants seem to be slowly winning, I thought I would accelerate the process by introducing a bamboo shrimp. He appears to be happily eating. My question: is he eating the single-celled algae that are the green water, or is he *just* eating the daphnia that are the other animal I introduced to try to combat the greenness. Thanks!
-- Greg
<Hello Greg. The answer is a little from Column A, a little from Column B. Atyopsis spp. shrimps are opportunistic feeders, and will take both zooplankton and phytoplankton. They also eat decaying organic matter, which in terms of aquarium husbandry means they happily eat things like catfish pellets and algae wafers. If you're looking for a way to turn green water clear, Atyopsis almost certainly *won't* do that. They just don't strain the water efficiently enough at the size bracket of things like planktonic green algae. The true phytoplankton specialists in freshwater ecosystems are things like bivalves at the large scale and planktonic crustaceans (including Daphnia) at the small scale. Cheers, Neale>

Re: bamboo shrimp, green water – 10/09/07
Thanks for the input. Interestingly, the water has gotten much less green since the shrimp's introduction, and he is producing poo pellets at a riotous rate. Perhaps phytoplankton species come in different sizes, and he is filtering out the larger varieties? If you are interested, I'll keep you apprised on how the experiment goes.
-- Greg
<Hi Greg, Thanks for the update! I imagine the water is getting less green for other reasons than the shrimp (typically, "green water" comes and goes in blooms). But if you're finding evidence to the contrary, so much the better. Useful to know, and share with others in similar situations. And yes, do let me know how things work out in the long term. Cheers, Neale>

Re: bamboo shrimp, green water – 10/09/07
Thanks for the input. Interestingly, the water has gotten much less green since the shrimp's introduction, and he is producing poo pellets at a riotous rate. Perhaps phytoplankton species come in different sizes, and he is filtering out the larger varieties? If you are interested, I'll keep you apprised on how the experiment goes.
-- Greg
<Hi Greg, Thanks for the update! I imagine the water is getting less green for other reasons than the shrimp (typically, "green water" comes and goes in blooms). But if you're finding evidence to the contrary, so much the better. Useful to know, and share with others in similar situations. And yes, do let me know how things work out in the long term. Cheers, Neale>

Ghost Shrimp
Hi! Can you tell me what ghost shrimp eat?
<Just about anything you offer them meat based.>
Thanks, David Muir
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Iodine And Freshwater Shrimp - 12/15/2004
I recently picked up some ghost shrimp for my two aquariums.  
<Yay, welcome to the world of freshwater crustaceans!!>
All is well, but I want to be prepared for molting if/when it occurs.  
<No "if" about it - ghosties molt a lot and often.>
I know iodine is important for crustaceans.  Is there some sort of Iodine supplement the shrimp will need or is the weekly 10-20% water change I do going to be enough for them?  
<Some SERIOUS kudos to you for thinking of this!  Yes, freshwater shrimp require iodine to facilitate calcium uptake and successful molting.  Though you *might* be able to get by with your regular water changes alone, I have found that adding iodine *dramatically* reduces the chance of a "bad molt".  Before adding iodine to my tanks, I would lose a few shrimp each month.  After adding iodine, I haven't lost any shrimp to bad molts, that I know of - and they started breeding right away, as well.  I use, and heartily recommend, Kent marine iodine, at a rate of one drop per ten gallons each week.  This amount may seem insignificant, but it has proven seriously beneficial in my tanks.>
I feed a varied diet of plant and animal foods, they also have in the tank a piece of real driftwood and several species of live plants.  
<Sounds perfect.>
Thanks for your help guys!  :-)  (Almost forgot, they are also in the tank with some Zebra Danios and Otocinclus algae eaters in one tank, and a Betta and Otocinclus in the other tank.)
<All sounds good.  Wishing you and your shrimp well,  -Sabrina>






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