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FAQs About Clown Loach Health/Disease

Related Articles: Loaches, Dojos/Weatherfish

Related FAQs: Clown Loaches, Loach Disease, Clown Loach Identification, Clown Loach Behavior, Clown Loach Compatibility, Clown Loach Selection, Clown Loach Systems, Clown Loach Feeding, Clown Loach Reproduction, Loaches 1, Loaches 2, Loach Identification, Loach Behavior, Loach Compatibility, Loach Selection, Loach Systems, Loach Feeding, Loach Reproduction,

The Bloated Clown Loach and the Gluttonous Neon Tetras, env. dis.    6/18/08
Hello,
<Ave Maria>
I've read related posts, and I did see something about separating the loach and feeding him frozen or fresh foods to correct the problem, but I'd just like to make sure that this is correct for my situation, and to ask about another problem with our tank population.
<Ok>
To give a bit of background, we are currently recovering from a HUGE nitrate spike and battling high temperatures. Our nitrate level has gone from just over 100 to around 30. We know this is still way too high, but it's taking time to get it down with water changes. I'm so afraid we'll shock the fish. This is a 160L tank with quite a few plants, 5 angelfish, 15 neon tetras, 1 Hillstream loach, 1 rainbow shark, 1 plecostomus, and 4 clown loaches. We had 5, but one got very listless and soon died. Our tank stats currently are:
pH: 6
KH: 5
GH: 14
NO2: 0
NO3: 30
<Still a bit too high>
The current problem loach became very bloated overnight. The other three will cuddle with him from time to time, but when they go off to play, he just stays on his side in a little cave or next to a wall. He is breathing rapidly, and his gills seem a bit red.
<Good description, clues>
We don't have money for a quarantine tank right now,
<Don't need this... just to fix the one they're in now>
but we did put him in a clear plastic container with water from the tank. He was difficult to catch. We've also given him some thawed bloodworms. He looks healthy, aside from the bloating, which makes him look kind of pregnant. We've just noticed that he seems to have a little hole in his side, too. Is this the right treatment, or is he lost?
<Not lost... not really a treatment... I'd return this fish to the main tank. Being in the container is worse>
The other issue involves our neon tetras. We were told that our loaches would benefit from getting some frozen food once a week. My husband thaws the block in warm water, then adds it to the tank. The problem is that our loaches get none of it, since the tetras eat it ALL. Every single one ends up looking impossibly bloated and like they might explode. We've tried adding a bit more, but they just keep eating! Any ideas?
<Try other sinking type foods, or placing in an inverted "blackworms feeder" on the bottom>
Thanks for taking the time to read this. You guys are always so informative and quick to respond. Thank you!
Maria and Ola
<Fix the nitrates... the process of doing so will save your loach and other livestock. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwnitrates.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: The Bloated Clown Loach and the Gluttonous Neon Tetras   6/18/08
Thanks! We were very worried about the little guy. We'll keep up our dilution plan until we get to an acceptable nitrate level, and then stick to a schedule of weekly quarter changes. The fish seem so much happier and more active after them. Thanks again!
<Dilution is not the only, even likely best route to go. Please read where you were referred to. RMF>

Re: The Bloated Clown Loach and the Gluttonous Neon Tetras
   6/19/08
We've already adjusted food amounts and begun vacuuming more often as well. We have a lot of plant life. We'll get to the LFS this weekend and see what we can do to implement the other recommended methods. Thanks again!
<Ahh, welcome! Do please make it known how you progress here. Bob Fenner>

Re: The Bloated Clown Loach and the Gluttonous Neon Tetras – 06/28/08
Hi,
Just an update. I've been sick, so there was a bit of a delay in going to the LFS. We have started treating with Tetra's Nitrate Minus, and more importantly, we bought and set up an external filtration system that has five stages of filter media. The fish are already looking more lively. Sadly, Bloaty didn't make it. We should know how well this is working by Monday.
<Thank you for this update. Do take care. BobF>

Clown loach hlth -04/11/08
Hi crew,
today I bought five clown loaches.
<ok>
I saw them in my LFS for about three weeks, and I got them today because they looked healthy. However when I got home, and I was inspecting them I realized two of the loaches had one white spot each on their tails. Should I start to treat this with eSHa exit? I am not sure whether I have carbon in my Juwel Rio 400 - I looked inside, all I could see was a black hard sponge, and one green one, one blue one and white sponges. Should I remove the black one before starting the eSHa exit or wait to see if the whitespot goes away on its own?
<The black one is a "carbon sponge." So yes, you should remove that before treating with any medications. However, I would wait just a day or two and just observe. Are the spots raised? Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwich.htm>
I have five small angels, five guppies and one small bronze Cory also in this tank.
Many thanks, Neervana
<De nada and good luck,
Sara M.>

Fungused clown loach   1/25/08
Hi I have two Clown Loaches and today I saw they seem to have white mold growing on them am not Sure whats happening but they still seem to be active like usual. I was wondering if its the water or do they have an infection. thank you
<Mold on fish is extremely bad. It's likely a Fungal infection if it looks like fluffy white threads, or Finrot if the white stuff is dead tissue and you (usually) see some bloody tissue nearby. In either case, early treatment is ESSENTIAL. Furthermore, both of these diseases are 99% of the time related to either poor water quality or physical damage. So you need to check the living conditions of your Loaches before doing anything else. Two Clowns will need a tank well in excess of 200 litres/55 gallons after they are anything more than pups, given that this species is both [a] big and [b] sensitive to poor water quality. Secondly, they are very intolerant of dissolved metabolites in the water. At the very least, check the nitrite level. If you detect any nitrite at all, that's too much, and it means you have insufficient filtration, an overstocked tank, or are drastically overfeeding the fish. Now, treating Clown loaches is complicated by the fact that many off-the-shelf medications will kill them as easily as they'll cure them, so you have to do your research before dumping any old potion into the fish tank. Do read the FAQs on the Clown Loach disease, here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/clnlchdis.htm
Cheers, Neale.>

 
Emergency with clown loach 1-11-2008
Hello,
<Hello Katey,>
I have an emergency with my favorite fish, an 11 year old 9 inch clown loach named Mr. Whiskers. He has resided in his 75 gallon with no problems for over a year. I do weekly water changes, no major changes lately (all I can think of is the addition of a large  piece of Mopani wood), all other residents look and act healthy. Nitrates are in safe range (under 40ppm), nitrites 0, water is neutral.
<All sounds good.>
On to the problem - yesterday (Wednesday) I noticed what looked like a little bit of sand was stuck to one of his sides, but nothing major. Now, tonight he has what looks like slimy, bubble-laced goo patches on both his sides. Strands of this bubble goo trail off as well. This covers a large area on both his sides, with a couple tendrils trailing from his gills. The color of his fins seems a bit washed out, and he is breathing very rapidly. In spots under the slime, and a bit on his head, there are red streaks or spots, like a rash, under his skin. I have attached a couple pictures of him which I think show the slime and red areas pretty well. I am not sure if this is a fungus, or a parasite, or what.
<Looks like the sort of thing often called "slime disease" -- a catch-all name for protozoan or bacterial infections that result in excess slime production. The slime can indeed collect bubbles and silt. It is often associated with grayness, and as the situation gets worse with inflamed or dead skin. Can be treated using anti-Finrot/Fungus medications as well as dips. See here for some options:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwfishmeds.htm
Do bear in mind Clown Loaches react badly to medications of some types, so half-doses and close observation would perhaps be the order of the day, at least to begin with, coupled with extra oxygen to compensate for irritation of the gills. I've also found saltwater dips very effective for treating slime disease.>
Now, the major problem is that I am going out of town for a week on Saturday, leaving me just Friday and half of Saturday to treat. I will be back next Sunday the 20th. The medicine I have on hand is Coppersafe and Maracide. Please, what can I do to save Mr. Whiskers?
<Not 100% sure either of these will help here, but worth a shot. If the parasite Costia is to blame, then either could help. But there are other types of Slime Disease that seem to need antibacterial medications.>
I am not sure if I can get someone to come over during the week to give medicine, but I'll see what I can do. Mr. Whiskers is VERY precious to me and it kills me that this happened right before leaving town. Does it look like a fungus, or parasite, or something else? I will do whatever is in my power to help my little charge.
<Very good.>
I just noticed that the other clown loach in the tank (he is 3.5 inches) has the start of a few bubble trails off his body and fins, and is swimming somewhat strangely. The other fish, Severums, Leporinus, Firemouths, all seem fine still.
<Hmm... bit worried about the Leporinus -- some specimens are very nasty animals, and bite the scales and fins from large fish. Do watch for this.>
Thank you so
much!!! Katey
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Emergency with clown loach    01/13/2008
Hi Neale,
Thanks so much for your response. Unfortunately, Mr. Whiskers was gone this morning. He was cocooned in a thick coat of slime from barbels to tail. I also discovered the problem...when I reached in to get him, the water was so hot a human would be uncomfortable in a bath of that temp. Apparently the heater malfunctioned and super heated the water overnight.
It must have started glitching the day before when Mr. Whiskers had just a little slime reaction; just a few degrees hot enough to affect a delicate clown loach but not enough to tell anything was amiss. Then over last night it went wild and...my favorite, most personable fish gone. What is so frustrating is I always went the extra mile doing everything right for such a special specimen...weekly changes, constant testing...but everything can be wiped away with just a malfunctioning heater. I assume the little loach died too; I'm going to search the tank for his body. All the cichlids and Plecos seem okay, so far...I had unplugged the heater and threw in some ice packs. It took hours for the temperature reader to register upper nineties, so my guess is the temp went up past 100. A horrible way to go.
Again, thanks for your quick response, I just wish I had caught the problem before it was too late.
Take care, Katey
<Hello Katey. A horrible story, and you have my commiserations. Let me share a useful tip though: with valuable collections of fish (and which collection of fish isn't valuable?) use two too-small heaters instead of one adequate one. So suppose your tank needs 100 W of heating. Don't use a single 100 W heater but instead two 75 W heaters. Why? Because if one heater jams, it won't have enough power to boil your fish (at least, not quickly, giving you time to notice the problem). Conversely, if one heater fails, the other one will still be powerful enough to slow down the heat loss enough for you to notice the problem in time, and the tank certainly won't get so cold the fish freeze. You still need to check the heaters from time to time, but at least you'll have the peace of mind of knowing that either way, your fish will be safe. Hope everyone else in the tank settles back down, Neale.>

Great pix. RMF

Ich, FW, Botia macracantha... no reading  12/12/07
Hi, I have a clown loach that recently got ich.
<... this is a social species. Should be kept in a shoal...>
But I am not entirely sure. He has like white air bubbles on his tail and on his fin.
<Mmmm, could you send along a pic?>
Is this ick or not? Also, is there a very accurate and easy way to tell if your fish is healing from ick? Last, how much salt should I use and how often? I have a fifty gallon freshwater tank. Thanks for all your help.
~concerned owner...
Oh, and how do I feed frozen bloodworms to my bottom feeders? Thanks once again
<How is it you managed to skip over our instructions for writing us w/o reviewing what is posted? Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm
and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/clnlchfdg.htm
and the linked files above. There is just too much that is necessary, related to your general questions to answer succinctly. What you need to know en toto is posted. Go and read it. Bob Fenner>

Rail-thin clown loaches   8/24/07
Hi Guys,
Tried to post my question on your forums but got a 'servlet error' I think was what it said. I think you have a very informative website which I enjoy and I'm hoping you can shed some light on this problem with my loaches. I can't believe I've found almost nothing written about this problem. On another website, I found one other person who had posted the same question and no one had an answer for her.
Here's what I'm experiencing: I'm losing about 1 clown loach every 2 months. They get VERY skinny and bony. I'll probably lose my 3rd one tomorrow and he is paper thin all the way up to the back of his head! Until today, he's acted perfectly normal except for the skinniness, now he is laying on his side moving infrequently just as the other two I lost had done.
I've always had 3 loaches at a time and whenever I've lost one, the other two had looked perfectly healthy. There doesn't seem to be any pattern with length of time in my tank before they get paper thin and die. It seems to strike randomly.
One thing I've noticed is that within a couple weeks introduction into my tank, my loaches seem to darken and maybe lose just a little fullness in their body. They seem to go from the typical dark gray stripes you see in pet stores to jet black stripes.
55 gallon tank
20 community fish
Temp: 77
ph usually about 7.2
I do 15% water changes every two weeks and my water has been perfect (0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and nitrates) every time I test it.
I have a variety of 15 live plants and I feed once/day - usually a combination of flake food and frozen blood worms.
I'd appreciate any ideas you may have! Unless I can correct this, I don't think I'll buy anymore loaches and will just wait for the 2 remaining healthy ones to die.
Paul
<Hello Paul. Clown loaches aren't hardy fish and don't prosper many retailers' tank, and my guess is that they have what hobbyists call "wasting disease". This is caused either by an internal bacterial infection or else gut parasites of some sort, such as worms or flukes. Either way, it won't get better by itself. The problem for you is that Clown loaches respond rather badly to medications, so you need to approach treatment somewhat gingerly, keeping an eye out for unusual behaviours such as gasping at the surface and if required acting accordingly. Ideally, confirm with the manufacturer that whatever drug you are using is Clown loach safe. Antibiotics should be fine, but things with copper and formalin tend to be tricky. Anyway, in this instance I'd treat first for internal bacteria, and once that's done, treat for worms (on the rationale that bacterial infections tend to be more immediately life threatening than parasites). Make sure you remove carbon from the filter while treating the fish. Also, step up your water changes (once the courses of medications are done). 50% weekly is about right for Clown loaches. More broadly, keep in mind all the basic things about Clowns: they're schooling fish, they like water a bit on the warm side (25-30C). They're substantially herbivorous, and so you need to provide things like tinned peas, spinach, algae wafers, Sushi Nori and so on rather than just meaty foods. Like all loaches, lots of oxygen is essential. One last thing: if you find the Clown loaches from one retailer keep dying on you, it might be a "bad batch". Buy them from another retailer next time. Not all retailers are equal when it comes to caring for their livestock. Cheers, Neale.>

Poorly Clown Loach, no useful data   2/14/07
Hi there,
<Rob>
I have read over the FAQ for articles concerning sick Clown Loach and it seems many people are having similar experiences to mine, however I have already tried some of the treatments you guys have suggested, seemingly with no result.
<Cobitids are easily over-mis-treated... as you likely know... Our advice tends toward the end of conservancy... on the Net>
Please allow me to explain the situation, just in case anything differs for what is happening to my fish.
<Good, please do>
I've had the Clowns (and a selection of other fish) for some time now and a couple of months ago I upgraded to a larger tank. I never experienced any problems whilst they were in the smaller tank, and not for the first month of them being in their new home. They had spent a lot of time hiding in the tunnel and laying on their sides,
<What they do...>
but having researched I know that this is usual behavior. I then noticed, a few weeks back now, what seemed to be small spots towards the back of the Clowns. I assumed that this was just sand which had attached to them as a result of them laying down.
<Mmmm>
However, they began to start rubbing themselves quite aggressively against the bottom of the tank (along with one of my Denisoni Barbs)
<Beautiful species, eh?>
which I know is a sign of irritation. I have performed several and frequent water changes, and also tested the water for all chemicals, and all levels seem to be normal, or in no way near dangerous level.
<Numbers please...>
The spots developed and grew at which point I assumed that it was in fact white spot.
<... okay>
I used a treatment of eSHa Exit, having removed all carbon from my filters, which doesn't seem to have achieved anything. Their condition seems to be slowly deteriorating and the spots have now turned into patches, their fins almost seem to be "rotting",
<... not ich... Perhaps the medicine... or maybe whatever was irritating these fish before...>
and one of them looks a little "bruised". I went back to my local fish shop and was instructed to use a treatment of eSHa 2000 in case the patches were excess mucus, but again seems to have had no obvious result.
<...>
I am becoming very concerned now, as I fear they are rapidly reaching their end. I also don't want to overload them with antibiotics and fear I already may have done so.
<Yes>
All of my other fish seem perfectly healthy, no sign of spotting or rubbing (even the Denisoni Barb has stopped now) so I am unsure what the problem could be. The only thing I I haven't tried is raising the temperature which I will do now.
Any other help of advice you could give would be much appreciated, and thanks in advance.
Regards
Rob
<Can only guess... as you have provided little real data, just your subjective evaluations... I would elevate temperature, use some salt... Per what is posted on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Re: Poorly Clown Loach  - 02/15/07
Hello,
<Hello again Rob>
I have tested the water again and the results are as follows:
pH is in the region of 7.2 / 7.3
Ammonia is zero
Nitrite is 0.1 / less
Nitrate is in the region of 20-30 (which admittedly is a little high).
<Mmm, yes. I'd strive to keep these below 20 ppm>
I change the water regularly, although I think my tap water has a bit of nitrate in it to start with. I try to do a larger water change at least once a month if not more regularly with reverse osmosis water...
<I'd change a bit once a week... actually, I DO change about 20% a week in my FW tanks>
I have increased the temperature of the tank (gradually) to in the region of 84 degrees.
<Good>
It has been kept previously at a steady 79. I am yet to add salt, but will look into that later this evening.
To further complicate things, when adjusting the heater I discovered 4 baby fry swimming in the corner near the surface! I have never had fry before so I will be spending today researching this on your website!!
<Congrats!>
Thanks again
Rob
<Thank you for this follow-up. BobF>

Clown loach skinny disease  - 11/09/06
First off, thanks for the wonderful website, I love reading it!  I lost a clown loach that I have had for several months to what I believe was skinny disease last week.  Another, possibly 2, have it now.  From what I understand this is a fast paced bacterial disease.  
<Yes, most likely>
Would Maracyn be OK to use?
<Erythromycin, the active ingredient in Maracyn (1), is fine to try first>
Should I move the loaches to the 10g hospital tank or will that stress them further?
<Too likely so... I'd treat them in place>
Should I treat all the clown loaches in the small tank, or just treat the entire 55g tank?
<The latter>
The 55g has undergravel filter with power heads, and an outside power filter.  Water parameters are off a bit due to the ever changing and now poor quality of the local water.  We live in a rural area, and I am trying to rectify the water situation by getting water at the LFS.  I also switched my water conditioner from Amquel to Prime at the advice of another LFS, but have seen no difference in nitrates.  It is very frustrating never being able to get them below 20ppm.
<Perhaps a reverse osmosis filter for your tanks and cooking, drinking use>
Any info on the clown loaches malady or the nitrate issue is greatly appreciated!  Thanks in advance.
Sarah W.
<High/er metabolite levels are a contributing mal-influence. Bob Fenner>

Clown loach wasting away    10/6/06
Hi from Prescott AZ!
<Howdy from S. Cal>
I have a 39 gallon Eclipse 3 community freshwater planted tank stocked with 1 male 3 inch gourami, 2 fancy guppies, 3 5-inch clown loaches, 6 2 inch praecox rainbowfish, 3 white clouds, 1 peppered Cory, 2 Kribs and 2 pygmy cories.  This tank has been up and running great without a loss for about a year, with twice weekly 30% water changes.  The rainbow fish and Kribs were the last addition about 6 months ago.  Food Tetra color max flake, brine shrimp blood worm artemia glass worm (frozen Hikari), fresh BBS (any extra leftovers after feeding my killifish), and zucchini/sweet potato.  Ammonia, nitrite are 0, nitrate is 20 or less.  Hardness 180, buffer 120-180, pH 6.8 to 7.0.  Temp 74 to 80 degrees.
I lost a female pygmy Cory and 2 guppies for unexplained?
<Never fun>
reasons 5 months ago.  The fancy guppies just seemed to thin, then flounder at the bottom of the tank for a day then belly up.
<Perhaps bacterial ("wasting disease", Mycobacterial... and/or protozoan... Hexamitiasis?)
I tried frozen, supposedly "safe" Hikari Tubifex exactly once before the fish began dying.
<Very likely unrelated>
I ran a UV sterilizer for 2 weeks, blasted the tank with Quick Cure
<Toxic...>
for 10 days with Maracide 1 and 2 for 5 days.
<These antibiotics won't treat for the root causes here either>
  I then restarted the biofilter with BioSpira (great stuff - too expensive though).  The tank has been stable for a month, and I bumped up the water changes to 50% twice a week to help keep the chemistry good.
Now a clown loach that had been very active, fat and quite dominant has thinned down dramatically, wont "play" with the other loaches, seems to eat only slightly, while every body else in the tank is getting fatter (other loaches) or breeding (the neon rainbows and white clouds).  He has been thinning for the last 3 weeks dramatically and seems only a shell of his former glory.  He has no white spots on him, no velvet or other ich like changes in his skin tone, is very orange and dark black with very dark red fins.  I noticed two small bumps on his sides today.  One is just above his left anal fin on his side with no changes in color of the skin.  The other is on his front right side above his left pectoral fin with two small white spots along the lateral line.  I cannot find anything hanging from his vent (must be a female! LOL), and I haven't seen any discolored feces...I've not seen any feces hanging off any of the loaches for that matter.  He does swim around somewhat, and seems interested in the artemia I place in the tank but doesn't eat much.
I've considered that the tank picked up a parasite from the Tubifex worms I put in the tank.... dumb I know, but it said "safe and pure" on the package.  I have to remember that bags of manure also say "safe and pure" on them!
Any hope for the clown loach, or should I euthanize it to spare the tank?  Any meds to "nuke" the tank with that will prevent further losses?
Thanks
Brian
<Mmm, I would try (sequentially) a gram-negative laced dried food (if the fishes are all eating) that you can buy expressly made, or DIY, and a course of Metronidazole/Flagyl here. Both can be searched for, found on the indices on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Clown Loaches - Diseased, or Clownin' Around? - 08/12/2005
We have had 2 clown loaches in a 240 litre community tank for 8 months. They are in with two small eels (7inch) two angel two gourami and some pleco's.
<Some....  How many?>
Only two small Plecos have been introduced recently.  
<Not much space for several territorial bottom-dwellers....>
Over the last 24 - 48 hours one clown loach has stayed at the bottom often falling over on his side,
<Can be quite normal....  Try a google search with "clown loach playing dead".>
and his colouring have gone very dark (like bruising but all over)?  
<Possibly a problem....>
The other clown loach is desperately trying to help him but I don't what it is or how to treat him?
<First, test your water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.  Be certain ammonia and nitrite are always ZERO.  Maintain nitrate at 20ppm or less.  If your water is not within this range, do water changes to correct it.  If all checks out, and you see no other behaviour issues with this fish, all may indeed be quite well.  I would "wait and see" for now, and keep a close eye on the fish.>
Please help,  -Karen
<Wishing you and your fishes well,  -Sabrina>

Clown Loach
I have 2 loaches, 2 black tipped sharks(?), and have just added 2 Oscars. I only mention all of the above because I do not remember seeing this problem before the Oscars were added. One of my loaches is constantly swimming at the surface with his mouth wide open, never closing it. He is seriously faded and seems to have red cheeks (I know that is silly but really what it looks like). The sharks are very worried about him and so am I. Can you help me?
Kim
<Sounds like this fish is extremely stressed... by? I would check your water quality... for ammonia and nitrite at least... Has this tank been set-up long? Is it big enough for these fishes? How is it filtered? Is it cycled? Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwmaintindex.htm - scroll down to Environmental Disease and read the Related FAQs files. Bob Fenner>

HLLE on Clown Loach
Greetings, all. I have a 180 gal FW tank. <!> I keep it at about 80F. I have two 13 year old clown loaches <!!>(8+ inches) and two smaller ones (3-4 inches). I also have 9 ghost catfish, 1 black skirt tetra, three hatchetfish and two large-ish Plecos. <!!!> I wrote awhile back about one of the smaller loaches having nibbled fins. Now, I notice that one of the larger clowns (the largest, in fact) has three, almost regularly-spaced craters or lesions (bites?) on his dorsum, just behind the "head". They do not look infected, and he still eats voraciously. The tank is very clean, with bio-ball sump-based filtration and a 40W UV light. 40 gallon water changes weekly.  Could this be hole in head? No white/slimy fecal matter and he acts healthy. The marks are in a row, all inside one of his dark stripes. <It does not sound like the few fish I have seen with hole in the head (HLLE) but it sure is possible. The fact that the holes are "clean" and in a row makes me think it is not HLLE. Although not directly fatal, it can lead to secondary infections that are. Watch for redness or a white pus. I found a good link for you to read up on. See:  http://www.masla.com/fish/hlle.html.
BTW Great job on keeping your fish! 180 gallons and a rather light bio load! Big fish in there though. Make sure you check the nitrates and try to keep them below 20ppm. Don>
Thanks! <No, Thank YOU!>
Tom <Don>

Lumpy Loach – Mycobacterium Infection? – 01/11/2005
Hi,
<Hello!>
I have a 75-gallon tank with three 14 year-old clown loaches and two large green kissing fish.  
<Must be some pretty large loaches, at that age!  It wouldn’t be a terrible idea to try for a larger tank, if possible.>
One of the loaches has large lumps all over his body under the skin, appears to be very swollen – even his eyes appear to be bulging.  He is hiding in the back of the tank and will not come out to eat; he just stays in the same place breathing very rapidly, in an upright position, leaning on tubing.  He has been like this for about a month and I
really didn’t expect him to be alive this long since I just noticed his illness right before I went out of town.  I assumed that he had an age related problem since a couple of his tank mates have passed on over the past couple of years.  I haven’t been able to find out anything about this particular illness.  
<To be quite honest, this sounds to me like a very good indication of mycobacteriosis.  The swelling, pop-eye, and lumps/tumors/granulomas are very strong symptoms of this myxosporidian bacterial infection.  It’s really quite a good thing that the critter did not die while you were gone – a dead fish can release literally millions of “spores” that can infect other fish in the tank!>
The nitrates in this tank stay fairly high even with frequent water changes and Poly-filters in the filters.  
<Yes....  These are very large fish in a (comparatively) small tank; increased water volume would really be a good idea.>
There are no indications (redness, etc) on his outward appearance that would suggest a bacterial or fungal condition.  I would try to treat him in a separate tank if I knew what to try, or at this point would it be better to euthanize him?  
<Sadly, mycobacteriosis is essentially incurable.  There is some indication that Kanamycin sulfate may have some effect, but recovery is unlikely, I’m so sorry to say.  Either way, should you choose to medicate or not, definitely remove the fish as soon as possible from the healthy animals – I can assure you, you do not want this to spread, if that is, in fact, what it is.  Also, PLEASE read the following link, so you can understand what risk this illness might pose to you:  http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-07/sp/feature/index.htm .  Do please understand that without seeing the fish for myself, I cannot guarantee that this is an accurate diagnosis – but based on the symptoms you describe, it is my best guess.  Gah, I hate being the bearer of bad news.>
I appreciate your consideration. Thank you, Karen Chaney
<Wishing you and your loach the best,  -Sabrina>

Clown loach FAQ, actually petfish hypochondria
Hi,
I have a 75 gallon tank with 5 clown loaches (approx. 5 inches long), 2 catfishes, and 2 discus.  After cleaning the filter in my Fluval 304, I noticed
1 of my clownloaches developed partial eye cloudiness in one eye and another clown loach developed what started looking like a small 1mm x 5mm whitish
bump turned into a round pimple-like bump.
<Good observations>
They have a great appetite.   What can I use to treat them?
<Mmm, I prescribe nothing... just time going by... the markings are/were due to abrupt chemical changes in your system... not a pathogen... and besides, even mild medications will harm your other fishes>
Do they need to be separated in a "sick" tank?
<No>
You have mentioned for other internal bacteria diseases or infections to use Flagyl, but how much ?
<None>
Let say I have Flagyl 500 mg tablet form.  
<... this material, Metronidazole is quite toxic... kills the kidneys of fishes easily... Do NOT use it in this instance>
Would I go by the approximate weight of the fish ?  What is the weight of a 6 inch 15 year old clown loach ?  Can I crush up the Flagyl tablet and dilute
it with tank water then soak it in Tubifex worms ?  Will it further harm the rest of the healthy fish or will the antibiotic make the other fishes
bigger and healthier ?  I've heard of using Methylene blue approximately 6 drops per gallon on the entire tank.  What is your feelings on this and
where would I buy Methylene blue ?  15 years ago, when I bought the tiny little babies, one of them would not eat and was wasting away.  At that time
I didn't have my heart and soul invested in them because I just bought them.   So I figured I would experiment.  I had left over amoxicillin (from my
sick cat).  If memories serves me correctly, I crushed up a tablet, separated it to approximately 1 mg, dilute it with water, soaked it with
Tubifex (the worms died instantly), then fed it to the sick fish, which was in a breeder tank inside the 75 gallon tank.  So the sick wasting fish would
accidentally have to suck and antibiotic soaked worm.  A week later, he was swimming with the rest of the fishes.  The rest of the other fishes ate
whatever antibiotic soaked worms floated out of the breeder tank.  And they all lived !! 15 years later they are XXL and were healthy until now.  But
now I don't want to experiment.  Please advise.  Thank you for your time.  
Tammy
<Tam... don't fall prey to the "pill" mentality... these are not "safe" to just add... and there is no need to generally add any of them to otherwise well-maintained systems. I would add nothing here. Bob Fenner>

Clown Loaches with white spots laying on the bottom of the tank
I have a new 90L tank (just over a month old). I have slowly introduced 8 Neon Tetras, 1 Siamese Fighting Fish, 2 Plecostomus, 2 Clown Loaches and a growing snail infestation.
<Suspect these last two are related>
I am a complete beginner here as this is my first ever tank, I have read some books and many web pages but none seem to answer specifically my question. Please let me explain a little first before asking yourselves. After introducing the Clowns they seemed to hide behind plants and rocks for the most part of the day, I hardly ever saw them.
<This is normal behavior... they're new.>
This did not worry me as they appeared to be doing their job (the snail population dropped dramatically). The Fighting Fish never seemed to display his colours as he did in the shop, this was solved by adding a mirror to the side of the tank. One day after adding the mirror I noticed a little white spot on one of the loaches on the rare occasions I saw them, by the evening it was covered and the other fish started developing it. By the second day I had added Interpret White Spot Plus No6. Over the next few days the spots diminished on all the fish except the loaches, after the second dose the other fish seemed clear and the loaches if not clear at least diminished. The loaches however are no longer hiding in the back of the tank where I can't see them, they are laying one on top of the other huddled up next to they mirror and barely moving. Every now and then they will dart into the middle of the tank for a few minutes then return and lay still for ages. My question is are they still suffering from the White Spot, are they suffering from something else or is this normal behavior?
<Likely just the white spot/ich>
Please excuse any ignorance here but I really am beginning to worry about them as it says on many pages white spot can be lethal, while on just as many it says it can be easily cured.
Tony Robertson
<Ignorance is acceptable... we're here to diminish this... Your fish, indeed your tank "has ich"... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm  Re: the medication, did you remove all chemical filtration (e.g. carbon) from your filters? This will remove the med. Did you raise the tank temperature? I would... all the livestock you list can easily tolerate the mid 80's F... but not the ich. Know that the loaches are "ich magnets" (i.e. very susceptible to this parasite), AND sensitive to ich medications... you will want to check the label, what you can re the med... and likely use half doses... Don't add any more livestock for a few weeks till after this problem is solved. Bob Fenner> 

Re: Clown Loaches with white spots laying on the bottom of the tank.
Dear Mr. Fenner
<Tony>
May I say thank you very much for you advice, it has helped to belay my fears quite a bit.
<Glad we have helped you>
You asked if I had removed the carbon filters, I had as that was an instruction with the white spot medication although I must admit I was unsure as to why I had to do it but my guess matched your reason. You also suggested raising the temperature, this I had not done as the instruction suggested raising it to 26c while I have had my tank at a constant 27c since the second day after installation. 
<I might raise it as much as 29C... the rationale: the causative organism (Ichthyophthirius multifilius) cannot tolerate heat as well as its fish hosts>
It is now two days since I first wrote and things have improved a great deal with the Clown Loaches. All signs of ich appear to have left all the fish, the loaches (the ones I was worried about the most) seem a tad paler than I recall but they do seem a bit more active. They are not laying on top of one another anymore but rather moving around on the bottom of the tank. I definitely believe they are going to live, which was not my belief a couple of days ago.
<Do understand the general life cycle of the protozoan...>
I had planned on adding a few more fish later this week but I think now I will wait a week longer.
<Yes! At least a few weeks... you may well simply be in "mid cycle">
I'm hoping to add some Angelfish, Red-tailed sharks and some small striped ones I saw in the shop last time I was there but unfortunately don't recall what they were called. I will seek advice from the shop before making any purchases as they did seem very knowledgeable last time. I had been blaming them for the ich in my tank but I now realize and understand that it is extremely common so I'll forgive them, but it won't stop me asking for a discount.  Again let me repeat my thanks as your advice and web pages were deeply appreciated.
Tony Robertson
<You are welcome. Bob Fenner> 

Clown loaches 'n' columnaris
Hi - I purchased 3 clown loaches about 3 or 4 weeks ago. They've seemed fine until about 3 days ago.  1 of them has white around his mouth. Could it be cotton mouth?  How would I treat this?  
<This sounds like columnaris (mouth fungus, mouth rot, other names).  I would treat with a broad spectrum antibiotic like Oxytetracycline, preferably in a medicated food, if possible.>
I had something similar about a year ago that started with a Dojo and 14 of my 19 fish perished.  I treated it with Penicillin upon advice from a local fish store.  I have a 29 gal tank. Testing yesterday showed everything was fine.
<What were your test results?  Usually this bacterial illness is brought on by high nitrates, perhaps a pH other than what the fish prefer, low oxygen concentrations, etc.>
Thanks
SG
<Wishing your fish a swift recovery,  -Sabrina>

Treating clown loaches for Ich (10/14/03)
<Hi! Ananda the clown loach nut here tonight...>
After a 35% water change, my 5 clown loaches developed ick.  
<Uh-oh.>
No fish had been added to my tank in months so I'm pretty sure it was caused by the water change. I use Reverse Osmosis water and there is no control of temperature.  
<Yep, that'll do it. You need to get a container big enough to hold all your water-change water and get a heater for it.>
I introduce it a gallon every  30 to 45 min.s or so so the tank has a chance to heat keep up.  
<The initial temperature shock is enough to trigger the ich.>
ANYWAY, after the loaches developed ick, I tried Ick Away for several days (with charcoal filters removed and temperature up to 82) which did nothing to help.
<Argh. I have yet to hear anything good about "Ick Away".>
I then went to CopperSafe before leaving for the weekend.  
<Never use copper with loaches! They're just too susceptible to it.>
When I returned, 3 of the 5 were dead and the other 2 were covered in Ick.  Within a couple hours, they died too.  
<Sorry to hear that... hopefully you've done another water change to take care of the probable ammonia and nitrate spike?>
None of my other fish have ick.  
<Clown loaches are ich magnets, so I'm not surprised to hear they got it bad but nothing else did...>
My tank is a 30 gallon with an Emperor 400.  
<That's what I use on my 30 gallon tank. But...with copper added to the tank, the bio-wheels have been sterilized and are going to be ineffective until the tank re-cycles. You're going to have to do more frequent water changes for a while. Your other option is to get some Bio-Spira, which must be refrigerated until you use it, as it contains live nitrifying bacteria.>
Fish are 3 Rummy Nose Tetras, 2 Corys, 2 Rosey Reds, 3 Red Platy's, 3 Black Molly's, and  3 Otocinclus.
<You're almost at the maximum fish capacity this tank can hold. With the loaches, I would characterize that tank as overcrowded. I keep my loaches in a 55 gallon tank -- they're still fairly small, about 3" long -- with the knowledge that they're going to need at least a 90 gallon tank in a couple of years.>  
What is the BEST way to cure Clown Loaches of ICK.  
<Many people use their ich medication of choice at half-strength, for twice as long as is generally recommended. That, and they crank the tank temp up. Personally, I'm a bit paranoid when it comes to my clown loaches. I've used "FW Ecolibrium" when they had ich -- it's more expensive than most ich meds, but it's completely safe for scaleless fish. I have a couple of bottles around, though I've been able to avoid ich since the first time they got it by carefully matching new water to tank water for water changes and by quarantining any new fish that get added to their tank. I got the Ecolibrium through Drs. Foster & Smith (they're a WetWebMedia sponsor, so you can get to their web site from the banner at the top of the Daily FAQ page).>
And while I'm at it, what's the best way to cure most fish of ICK?  
<Increased temperature: 86 degrees or higher for 10 days. And salt -- "freshwater" salt, not marine salt, since you don't want to change the pH. Your mollies and platies won't mind salt at all (mollies actually prefer some salt in the water). The rest of your fish should be able to tolerate a bit of it for a while. The level you need is 2 ppt salinity, which generally works out to a specific gravity of 1.002-1.003. Get the Aquarium Systems SeaTest hydrometer to check the specific gravity (it's the only one that measures low levels, except for the glass thermometer/hydrometers -- which are pretty easy to break). You'll need to find a temp. vs. s.g. chart to convert the actual s.g., since the SeaTest is calibrated for 76 degrees and your tank will probably have a higher temperature than that.>
I've been searching the web high and low and I've seen nothing definite on the cure for ICK that seems to work.
<One person's experiences with ich and her clown loaches: http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/thread.jsp?forum=3&thread=11808 >
Thanks for a great website.
<You're welcome -- check out our forums, too!>
-Mike
P.s.  GO CUBS!!!!!
<Ah, they lost tonight. :-( Maybe tomorrow night... --Ananda>

Re: Ich on clown loaches (10/16/03)
Ananda, thanks for the great info.  
<You're welcome!>
I'll check out Drs. Foster & Smith for proper medication (by the way, their catalog is almost a quick guide to proper fish and tank care.  It's indispensable.)  
<I use it a lot, too, but more for finding out which things are supposed to do what! But do compare their information to others' -- you may find that a phrase can be misinterpreted, or someone else's version may make more sense, etc.>
My LFS told me that CopperSafe was the *BEST* way to cure ick for Loaches.  
<Ack! Sounds like someone was seriously mis-informed....>
I prefer the method of Sea Salt and raised temperatures to any medication.  Not because of the cost, but because I hate adding any chemicals.  Is there a salt level/temp setting I can use all the time that would be preventative against ick?  
<Hmmm. Any increased temperature for long periods is going to speed the metabolism of the fish as well as any parasites -- and speeding the fishes' metabolism will shorten their lifespan.>
Just curious.  Or after the 10 days at 86 degrees should I just bring it back down to 78?
<That would be my recommendation.>
Thanks again for the help and a big thank you to the team for such an informative website.  
-Mike
<Thanks for the kind words. --Ananda>
P.s.  Go CUBS - Game 7!  :)
<*grumble* There were no fireworks in Chi-town last night....>

- Skinny Disease? -
I just lost one of my clown loaches... had 2, he got real skinny within 2-3 days... he just stayed on the bottom... would come up and try to eat but looked like he did not get much. Someone said it might be "skinny disease" what is this... <Caused by bacteria.> how do you treat it... <Antibiotics - erythromycin in the food.> And how do you prevent it. <Keep on top of water quality issues - most often, disease susceptibility is directly related to water quality.> Had added a dwarf gourami recently but had been QT'ed for 3 weeks... and looked fine. Please help... don't want to loose anymore clowns. <Please tell more about your husbandry - water change regimen, what you feed, water parameters, etc.>
Thanks in advance, Monica
<Cheers, J -- >

Dead clown loach - 'skinny disease', or worms?
me again....
<Sabrina, here>
answers to your questions....I do a 20%-30% water change once a month...ph 6.6, no ammonia, no nitrites,
<Excellent.>
I feed them a variety of things...zooplankton, Tubifex worms,
<Tubifex - live, frozen, or freeze-dried?  Live Tubifex are pretty well known for their tendency to transmit disease; probably not the best option....>
shrimp pellets, tropical flake food, gammarus...frozen shrimp....a good mix of things I thought.
<Yes.>
Like I said in my previous email...everyone seems to think it was skinny disease....a parasite that they say can be in the loach already and 6 months to a year or more kill them....
<I've found some conflicting information on this - some sources say 'skinny disease' is a bacteria, as Jason said previously, and some say it's a Microsporidean - a protozoan parasite - and is difficult to treat.  However....  As I read this, I'm rather certain that, whichever way it is, you're not looking at this 'skinny disease', but at an internal large-type parasite (rather than a protozoa or a bacteria), like nematodes.  This is common in wild fish.>
because they come from the wild....I had read that you can treat  prophylactically with Levamisole hydrochloride to keep this from happening...but did not find out where to get it or how much..... is this true?
<I would agree with this advice - Levamisole or Piperazine are the route to take for internal wormies.  Look into "Discomed" or, if you can find it, "Dewormer", both by Aquatronics.  The former is administered via food, and contains Levamisole.  The former is already *in* food, and contains Piperazine.  Either route should do the trick.>
You had mentioned medicated pellets with erythromycin....I have medicated pellets but it is tetracycline...for bacteria...would that be sufficient if this happens again?
<I'm rather convinced that you're dealing with a parasite, not a bacteria.  I'd suggest, if you're considering getting in more wild-caught fish, first and foremost set up a quarantine tank so you can nail illnesses before they get into the main system.  Secondly, keep good antibacterial meds on hand, as well as anthelminthic (worm killin') meds on hand.  Medicated food is probably the best route.>
In regards to that, I read that loaches with skinny disease do not always eat and by feeding with the pellets it might do more harm than good by damaging bacteria in filter and gravel... throwing ammonia and nitrites up therefore hurting other fish........
<Unlikely.  If the loaches don't eat the food, the other fish will, most likely.  I don't see much likelihood at all of causing harm to the tank going this route.>
Sorry so many questions...
<Don't apologies - it's totally understandable.>
I always find conflicting info on the net....& never know what to believe....
<Conflicting info - yes, indeed.  And there are many ways to skin a cat - and everyone you talk to will give you a different way.  -Sabrina>
any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance,  Monica     

Skinny-wormy-loach follow-up
I feed freeze dried Tubifex.
<Great.>
Thanks for all of the info.
<You betcha.  -Sabrina>
Monica

Black Spots
<Hello! Ryan here>
I was researching your site but I couldn't find much on Black Spot on clown loaches. I had just transfer my clown loaches to a new 55 gallon, that was set up for 8 months. Few days later so far what I can see 2 of them developed black spots on their bodies and fins. Please help, I heard that loaches are very
sensitive to medications because they don't have scales. Any recommendations? This is already 3 days later, hope I don't loose them. Thank you, hope to hear from you soon. Iveta .
<1 drop per 2 gallons of Maracide should be fine.  This can be increased to 1 drop per gallon if needed.  Please do this in a quarantine to be safe.  Clown loaches can be on the sensitive side- so add the Maracide gradually.  It's the sudden change in aquarium conditions that are deadly.  Best of luck! Ryan>

Clown Loach with Distended Stomach (05/29/03)
<Hi! Ananda here this morning...>
One of my clown loaches, "he's" only about 2.5" so still young, suddenly developed a heavily distended belly.  The fish is otherwise healthy and has been, swimming around, eating voraciously.  I did drop a pea in the tank earlier in the day.
<One of my clown loaches got rather bloated-looking once. I tried peas, but they weren't interested. I did some reading and found that it might have been their diet of mostly dry (and freeze-dried) foods. I took my bloated clown loach and put him in a hospital tank with one teaspoon of Epsom salts per five gallons of tank water. The next two days, I added another teaspoon each day, so I had a tablespoon of the Epsom salts per five gallons of tank water. I then fed the clown loach treats like frozen/thawed bloodworms, live blackworms, and even a few Mysis shrimp. In about a week, my clown loach looked like his more slender self. I did do a daily 5%-10% water change, adding back enough Epsom salt to keep the level up.>
But I also removed another clown loach from the tank that hadn't eaten in at least a week or two, and was "wasting away".
<What are you feeding them?>
All other parameters in the 30G tank are fine: ammo, nitrite, nitrate all at 0.  UV sterilizer running fine.  Other mates are 3 male rainbows not quite full grown, 6 cardinal tetras, 3 albino pristellas, a Rubbernose pleco and two baby dwarf Bristlenose (both under 2").
<Hmmmm. Depending on what kind of rainbows you have, I think you are either pushing the limits  or passing them on stocking this tank.>
Any idea what is with my clown loach's tummy and if I should be worried?
<If it isn't just bloat, it may be parasites. If that's the case, I'd suggest Metronidazole, at half dosage for double the duration.>
Or did he just swallow half of the pea (it broke in half upon entering the tank) and it is showing (seems unlikely to me)?
<If the swelling is visible for more than a few hours, it's not just an undigested pea... --Ananda >

Re: Clown Loach with Distended Stomach (05/30/03)
<Ananda here again>
Thanks.  I think it was something "he" ate!  Looks fine now (and did yesterday too).  Probably, he can't believe he ate the WHOLE THING!
<In other words, "Clown loach go >burp!<" ...  Thanks for following up with the good news... --Ananda>

Clown Loach Question
About two months ago I purchased a large (4-5") Clown Loach to add to my 72 gal bowfront aquarium. About 2-3 weeks ago he developed black spots over his body? 
<Don't know, does it?>
None of the other fish (5 Gouramis/5 Corys/1 pictus cat/2 balas) developed black spots. All the fish, including the loach continue to eat fine (dry flakes/fresh worms). 
<I see>
The water is clear, the ammonia and nitrate are basically nil. The water is 6.7ph. I do about 15% water changes every two weeks and vacuum the bottom. The live plants are not only doing well, I have a great crop of baby plants coming up. 
<Sounds good>
But I have a black spotted clown loach? The spots do not look like any type of parasite. Once in a while the loach will rub against some sandstone rocks, but its very infrequent (almost only for a couple of days after I change the water)? 
<Nothing to worry about in my estimation. This fish species does "scratch" quite a bit... and I've seen these "melanin" markings in them as well>
So are the black spots dangerous to the other fish? Is there anything I should do? 
<Enjoy your fish/es... Perhaps get it a pal... they are social animals... maybe a nice "castle" or other dark hiding, fun place for it to hang... Bob Fenner>
I appreciate any information you can provide me. Thanks - Mark Corrinet.

Sick clown loach
Hi
I have two clown loaches in my aquarium for the last 2 weeks. Today I found him lying on the bottom of the tank and the colour in his stripes are slowly
fading. I know clown loaches are prone to lying on the bottom of the tank looking dead but it is the fading colour that is worrying me.
Do you have any idea what may be wrong with my loach??
<Very very likely nothing is wrong at all... Clown Loaches are notorious/well-known for both their brilliant, delightful coloring, markings AND clown-like behavior... Do check your water quality, perhaps offer some favorite food (like blood worms, tubificids...) and don't worry. If the other loach looks fine, and neither have symptoms of outright disease, they're likely fine. Am sending your note to our resident loach-man, Jeff, for his input. Bob Fenner>
Thanks
Lisa

Re: sick clown loach
Hi Robert
My clown loach died today however the other one is still healthy and swimming around normally so hopefully it will stay healthy. The one that
died seemed to be smaller and had lost weight since we bought it.
Lisa
<Sorry to read of your loss. Have witnessed these mortalities in newly acquired Clown Loaches... consider that "something", likely parasitic or infectious, is wrong internally... not catching in most all cases. Bob Fenner>

Sick Fish?????
Robert (Bob),
I have two fish now that seem to have the same problem... From what I can figure out, it seems to be swim bladder disease.
<Mmm, but what is the cause/s of the swim bladder anomalies?>
Here are the symptoms.... The first fish, (Red Platy) I noticed about two weeks ago. He would seem to rest on the bottom of the tank and occasionally make a swim to the surface of the tank. After closer observation I noticed that he wasn't just resting on the bottom, but seem to be having trouble swimming. By which I mean, that it seem to take great effort to move from any given spot. Seem to move in place. After keeping close eye on the little guy for about a week I decided he wasn't getting any better. If anything it was worse. So at this time I place him in a 5 gal. quarantine tank. I added 1 tsp. of Aquarium salt and 1 tsp. of Fungus Eliminator by Jungle Labs. He's been in the quarantine for approx. 4 days now with no visible improvement, (doesn't seem to be getting worse either). Now I've noticed my second victim to this.... Prob. my favorite little guy in the whole tank. It's a beautifully colored clown loach. I've been watching him for the past two days in which he seem to rest on the bottom with very little movement and what seem to be heavy breathing with his mouth acting like it was gasping for air. He then decided to hide in one of the caves I have setup. He finally came out this evening and just sat there showing the same signs as when I saw him a couple of days earlier. I continued to watch him through the evening and he finally came to a resting point on the bottom against the front of the tank, ( kinda leaning toward one side... almost laying on one side.) At this point I placed him in the quarantine tank as well.
Now for my question.... Am I correct in the diagnosis?? 
<Mmm, you are to be commended for your keen interest, careful observations...>
Is there anything I'm doing wrong?? ( by the way, the tank does have a few live plants, and PH and Nitrate/Nitrite levels are all right on target) What can I do to correct this problem?? and get my little buddies feeling well again.
<I do believe the Platy is suffering more from "genetic" causes than anything else (not infectious, parasitic disease, nutritional deficiencies... and that it will get better or not... of its own accord (nothing more you can really do for it)... This livebearer does just "have problems" of this sort nowadays... sometimes, large numbers of imported livebearers show this symptomology. And the Clown Loach is really just doing "what Clown Loaches do"... in resting at odd angles, breathing hard at times, hiding in castles... Not to worry here. If you want to see it out more often, do consider adding one or two more. I would place it/him back in his main tank. 
Sincerely,
John R. Aulgur
<I am sending your note to a friend, Jeff, who is also a Clown Loach keeper. For his comments, input. Bob Fenner>

Re: Sick Fish????? Clown Loach
Just wanted to update you on the Clown Loach situation. Unfortunately he passed away sometime last night. I found him on his side, not breathing,
and the color in his stripes slowly fading. Checked the chemistry of the tank and all seems fine...,(within required levels). Not sure as to what or
why he ended up this way, but as soon as I can find some more I will try again.... (of course after doing a little more research/reading). Thank you
once again for the help.
<Ahh, sorry to hear of your loss... this does happen with Clown Loaches at times... unfortunately. Less when they're in a group... and ones kept for months tend to live for years... sometimes many. My thoughts are with you. Bob Fenner>
Sincerely,
John R. Aulgur

Re: Sick Fish????? Clown Loach Jeff
I concur. The Clown loaches do rest at odd angles, sometimes on their backs or upside down! This is perfectly normal. So is the appearance of heavy
breathing. I've had three loaches for quite some time and they have always exhibited this behavior. Bob's right about getting more, the loaches love to
school and chase each other around all day long. We started with one and he was pretty sedentary until we added another. Our single loach would hide in
a small flower pot almost constantly until we got another. He's now grown from 1.5 inches to over six inches, so its impossible for him/her to fit
through the opening now.
<Ah, as good a response as I had hoped for>
As far as the platys, we have platys with our loaches as well and they seem to fall ill after 6 months to a year and gradually darken, start breathing
hard and then die. No other fish in this tank seem affected. Various attempts at treatments including salt and antibiotics in quarantine tanks
have failed to help. I have noticed that the pH can hasten this. A pH drop to below 6.8 for more than a couple of weeks will generally result in a
fatality or two. Since you are keeping plants, your pH is probably near neutral or slightly acidic. This might be something to look into.
<Thank you Jeff. See you soon. Bob Fenner/Dogfish>

Re: Sick Fish????? Clown Loach Jeff
Thank you for you quick response. Really helped to have someone who is more knowledgeable put my mind at easy quickly. Once again, thank you for your help and quick response.
Sincerely,
John R. Aulgur
<A pleasure. And you did receive the response from Jeff? I cut/pasted it below. Bob Fenner>

Clown loach no info.   2/10/06
I have a community tank consisting of tetras, a pleco, and recently the addition of 4 clown loaches in an attempt to look after a snail problem....three of the loaches are doing well, good colour, active, etc. However the third has lost colour, is very faded, and spends much of it's time away from his peers, often at the top of the tank swimming erratically. I'd read that the ammonia could be the issue however have tested and they are 0%, like wise the ph is good. what now?
help
Rebekah
<... water quality? Temperature? See WWM re requirements, ranges. Bob Fenner>

Clown Loaches sick or need therapy?   2/9/06
Hi-
<Hello there>
I bought six clown loaches this past fall (lost one right away but still have 5).  For the first few months they were very visible in the tank and
quite active; even clicking excitedly over their algae chips.
<Ah, yes>
But for the past few months, they spend almost all of their time hiding behind a few pieces of slate that I have in the tank.  Nothing has changed in the tank  - not inhabitants or decor or plants (or outside the tank for that matter). Except that I did have 4 Rosy Barbs when I brought them home.  I'm down to one now so I'm wondering if a lack of dither fish could be the problem?
<Yes, could be... or perhaps whatever led to their loss>
The one Rosy doesn't seem to be as active as he was either.  The Corys and Gouramis behave the same and in fact the Gouramis may be more active than they were.  The loaches don't have visible signs of Ich but could a behavior change be a symptom?
<Yes, but you would see the spots... and quickly>
I'm especially wondering about the dither fish because I don't really want any more fish in the tank but I would get small active
fish if you think that could be the problem.
Thanks for all your help solving puzzling fish problems!
Holli
<I would be changing more water, more frequently, checking your temperature, water quality... to suit these fishes. Bob Fenner>

Re: Clown Loaches sick or need therapy?   2/10/06
Thanks for the speedy reply.  Actually after I lost the Rosies, I increased my water changes to at least 90% once a week.  
<This is too much at one time...>
Sometimes twice.  My water is too hard but it was hard for the first few months too. I'll try the dither fish and see how they like that.
Holli
<Real good. Bob Fenner>

Freshwater Clowns?  Uhh, Clown Loaches? - 11/25/2005
I do hope you can give me some insight as to what may be going on with my clowns....
<Clowns....  Freshwater....  I'm going to have to assume you mean clown *loaches* here, yes?>
I have a 35gal tank and I have 4 clowns aging from 6 yrs to 12 yrs old
<These are slow growing animals, but by 12 years of age, under proper care, they should be nearing a foot in length.  These animals should be in a much, much larger system, if this is the case.>
and I have never had any problems with them. Last night at feeding no one came out they all are staying in there hiding spot inside an urn. Now tonight I have lost one of my guys and I notice on him that the tips of his tail are white and a few spots.
<Not quite enough description, here....  If these are white spots like grains of salt, please read here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm and the files linked at the top of that page.>
I still have 3 that don't seem to have the spots but once again no one came out to eat.
<A bad sign.>
Also in the tank is an angel that does not seem to have any problems, so it is confined to my clowns.
<Mm, if it is ich, it is the entire tank that is infected.  But again, there's just not enough information to go off, here.>
Where do I start and what can I do???
<Start by testing your water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.  Ammonia and nitrite must be maintained at ZERO, nitrate less than 20ppm.  If these are not so, fix them with water changes.  Beyond that, please read about health and disease here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwmaintindex.htm .>
Any help in this will be great.  Thank you,  -Dawn Tweedy
<Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

 



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