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FAQs on Freshwater Ich, White Spot Disease: Remedies
That Don't Usually Work
Related Articles:
Freshwater Diseases, Ich/White Spot Disease,
Freshwater Medications, Formalin/Formaldehyde,
Malachite Green,
FW Disease Troubleshooting,
Related FAQs: FW Ich 1,
FW Ich 2,
FW Ich 3, FW Ich 4,
& FAQs on: FW Ich Causes, Etiology,
Diagnosis, Ich Remedies That Work,
PIch Remedy
Sensitive Livestock, Ich Medicines,
Ich Cases, &
Aquarium Maintenance, Choose
Your Weapon: Freshwater Fish Disease Treatment Options
by Neale Monks,
Freshwater Infectious
Disease, Freshwater Fish Parasites, African
Cichlid Disease 1,
Cichlid Disease,
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Check labels for ingredients: Won't do:
Acriflavine, Antibiotics, Mela-Pima-fix (worthless), Methylene Blue,
Nitromersol, Victoria Green, Pepper sauce...
UV sterilizers, Diatoms, mechanical
filtration period won't cure. |
Methylene blue - 03/02/07
Hi there
<<Hello!>>
I have a 4cm black moor in my 10g tank and 3 days after buying it, it developed
white spot - I'm assuming it had this when I bought it and I just didn't notice.
<<Perhaps. What are your plans for tank upgrade?>>
So I put some Methylene blue tonic in the tank to treat the whitespot, and the
people at the pet shop (another one - I didn't trust the first lot after the
sick fish) said to replace the airstone once the fish was well and the blueness
would come out of the water.
<<Methylene blue is not the proper medication to treat ick. There are much
better treatments for this. You biofilter is likely gone now as well from
dosing the main tank. I’d get on large water changes, adding Bio Spira and
mature filter media from an established tank, and add some activated carbon to
the filter to help remove the medication.>>
I have an under gravel filter but not a carbon filter as such. The problem is
that adding an air stone has made no difference,
<<No, it wouldn’t.>>
And my healthy-looking moor is now swimming around in blueness. I've done two
50% water changes over the past 2 days in an attempt to clear the water but it's
still very blue.
I don't want to tip all the water out and start again because I don't want to
kill or stress my fish, but I am quite keen to get rid of the blueness -any
ideas?
<<See above. If you have nowhere to add carbon (a small HOT filter will do),
keep up the water changes. Please note that the Methylene Blue will permanently
colour the silicone in the joints of your tank.>>
Would tipping all the water out and starting again be that bad given that the
Methylene blue probably killed my biofilter anyway? <<Usually does not. RMF>>
<<I recommend large water changes, not total water changes.>>
Rose
<<Good Luck Rose! Lisa.>>
Medication For Ich. 10/5/05
The pet shops here don't have that medicine (Rid-Ich). They suggested to buy
tetracycline. What proportion will I use?
< Tetracycline will not work on ich. Save your money and increase the water temp
to 84 F and increase the aeration.>
Is it ok if there will be other fishes in they same aquarium but it has a
divider in between. Once again thanks
< Dividers will not stop any medication if there is any water flow around
it.-Chuck>
Baby platys and adult fish have ich... mis-use of Acriflavine 10/30/05
I have a 23 gal. tank. I have 15 baby platys about 2 months old. some are
over an inch long and 3 are about a quarter inch long. I also have 3 adult
platys, 2 neon dwarf rainbows and 1 Raphael catfish. They all have ich. I gave
them Acriflavine.
<Not efficacious>
I didn't give them the full amount. guy at the pet store said not to with the
baby fish. after 3 days they still had it. I treated them again but not the full
amount. now the ich got worse. I don't know what to do any more I think there
going to die.
<Mmm, try reading... here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm
and the linked FAQs files above>
How long does it take before the Acriflavine starts to kill them?
<Generally doesn't>
2 platys are swimming real weird and stay at the bottom. I'm was going to put my
babies in a 5 gallon tank. I put one platy in there instead. swimming real crazy
and lays at bottom of tank. I did a 25% water change. Put the charcoal back in.
Tank is still green. Should I start all over with the right amount of
Acriflavine.
<I wouldn't... read>
will that be to much since I don't know how much is still in there. should I
treat with salt first and if so how much. Or should I treat them with
Acriflavine and if so how much. Or both. Should I take one third of the water
out and retreat them, should I put salt in tank with the catfish. how much. I
need help really bad. My ph is 7.0 - 7.2. It was 7.6. Is this effecting
them. I'm sorry I am such an idiot. I just want it to go away. I have to do
something I know or they will die anyway.
<Mmm, time "is of the essence"... you should read, come to an understanding of
what you're up to here... and act, soon... With a medicine that will kill ich.
Bob Fenner>
Licking Freshwater Ich!
Hi. I have a 30G freshwater tank with an Eclipse 3 hood. Stocked now with
3 platies, 5 cardinal tetras, 3 Rainbowfish (2 Boesemanni 1 turquoise),
one OTO and one Siamese Algae Eater. Tank has had ich impervious to
everything known. Going on 5 months now.
<Wow! That's a long outbreak!>
Ammo, nitrite, nitrate, all 0, pH is 7.7. Do 15% water change weekly.
Tried quinine, m green/formalin, Metronidazole, nothing has worked to
eradicate it. Lost 3 clown loaches on 3 outbreaks for 9 total.
<Awful to hear...>
I'm considering using a UV sterilizer now. Thinking Turbo-Twist 9W with
a mini-jet pump which is adjustable. Figuring I'd run it at about 60GPH,
to allow sufficient contact with the bulb while still getting a 2X
turnover.
<That makes sense>
But there is a lot of conflicting reports regarding whether UV
sterilizers have any effect on ich. Would I be wasting money? Or might
I get some benefit. I want to keep clown loaches, but fear adding them
will bring more ich, more death. Don't see logic of QT tank as ich is
most definitely in the main tank not on incoming fish (example: 6 days
ago last clown loach dead. No other tankmates had any ich signs.
<I understand your thoughts on this, but I respectfully
disagree...Quarantine will definitely help prevent new outbreaks of ich
and other infectious diseases in your main tank...try this procedure
before you discount its effectiveness...It works!>
Treated with RidIch+ for 2 more days anyway. Did 25% water change. 5
days after all that, new ich spots on a platy).
Want to end this in the main tank. Think I'd get benefit from a UV?
Thanks! Joel
<Well, Joel, UV is useful for killing the free-floating pathogenic
organisms that cause some diseases, however, what you need to do is
deprive the ich parasites of their hosts, which will disrupt the life
cycle of the parasites, and cause their population to crash. Do this by
removing all of your fishes (even the "healthy" ones) and placing them
in a separate aquarium for treatment (if necessary) with the ich
medication of your choice. Meanwhile, leave the main tank "fallow" for
30 days. After the 30 day period, you can re-introduce your now healthy
fishes into the tank, which should have a much lower parasite count than
it did previously...a level that healthy fishes should be able to
withstand. This is not a fun procedure, but it works in both fresh and
marine systems. Try it! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>Meds and UV
Sterilizers
I recently wrote about the amazing results I have had with a Coralife
Turbo-Twist UV Sterilizer in eliminating a long, persistent and deadly
ick outbreak.
After about 3 weeks of ick-free life in the tank, I decided to try once
again to add clown loaches.
Surprise, surprise, they are now showing signs of ick, after about 4
days in the tank. Earlier, a platy had shown white spots but those went
away after two days on their own, the UV seemed to take care of it.
<Operative words here are "seemed to">
My question is this: should I just let things be and hope the UV
controls the parasite?
<I wouldn't. I'd at least raise the tank temperature to the mid-80's F
(which by itself will likely kill the trophonts/feeding stages on the
fish/es>
Or should I medicate the tank? If the latter, is there any medication
I can safely use in conjunction with the UV?
<Yes. Look for "other than" malachite, formalin based ones...
Specifically, there are some based on silver salts that are fine for
use here, like Aquarisol>
Or must I turn the UV off? If the latter, what med would you recommend
to help my clown loaches, and for how long should I use it before
re-starting the UV?
<See above>
Prior to adding the UV, over a period of about 6 months I had lost I
think 9 clown loaches (3 on 3 separate occasions, all to ick). I have
had horrible luck, but they are among my favorite fishes and I really
want to keep them.
Thanks.
Joel
<A good idea to put a quarantine procedure into place for all new
livestock. Bob Fenner>
Re: Meds and UV Sterilizers
Thanks for the reply. As for Aquarisol: my bottle says copper Zycosin, as
does their website. Nothing about silver.
<Yes... used to be silver based... now copper>
The word copper makes me think you can't use it with the UV on.
<Depends on chelation, sequestering... Easy enough to do an experiment... with
and w/o the UV on and testing for free copper>
I just want to confirm it is ok to do so before trying it. Whaddya think? If
not, what about Clear Ick by Aquatronics, which is quinine monohydrochloride and
gentian violet, whatever that is?
<Another good choice... or as stated previously just raising the temperature
will do it...>
Just want to be sure my UV doesn't turn the meds into something that will kill
everything in the tank.
<Mmm, no, this won't happen. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again!
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Sick Fish ( HELP)
Hello, Where to start? I have two 55gallon aquariums stacked on one another,
with a bio filter and pump system underneath , its a freshwater setup that's
been in place for the past 5 years . I've had aquariums for about 15 years are
so. My problem is I purchased new fish and made the mistake of not quarantining
them first, Stupid I Know! I had to go out of town on business and left
someone to take care of my fish while I was gone, when I returned 4 days later
not only do I have ick on my 8" Severums which I have raised from nickel size,
but also have a ex-large Solid Black angel that appears to have cotton
fungus. All the sick looking fish seemed to be in the lower tank, which I
realize the temp to be a little cooler, a degree or two but still at
76-78. Note I had just did a water change prior to addition of new fish. Water
checks out fine! I purchased Wardley's Watercare Ick Away , added to both
tanks top and bottom as recommended , water turned blue for a short period of
time then cleared up I'm guessing maybe cause of the Bio system? The second
day a repeated the dosage according to instructions. On the third day I noticed
a real serious problem on all fish in the lower tank . (Fin rot ). Side fins ,
and tails.
I have now did a 25% water change and added MelaFix to try and help the fins.
I've since lost a half dozen smaller fish in the top tank, probably from meds I
NO. I'm really trying to save my fish can you help? The Severums are still
eating well but lying a lot on the bottom of the tank, still showing signs of
ick, but not as bad as it seems to be cycling out .
Is it possible that the ingredients in Wardley Ick Away caused damage to the
fins of the fish? Do you think an overdose would have caused this ?
What do you recommend ? The Ex-large Angel doesn't eat, closed fins
, The Severums both Green and Gold , still have signs of ick, plus now have
serious damage to there fins but or still eating well. Thanks for your time,
hope to here from you SOON.
< A couple of things are going on. First of all you need to do a 30% water
change on the systems by vacuuming the gravel in each tank. This will remove the
crud in the gravel and help reduce the nitrates. Clean the filter. This will
also help reduce the nitrates. Remove any carbon and treat the system with
Kordon's rid-ich to get rid of the ich and Nitrofuranace to get rid of the
bacterial infections. Raise the water temp to 80 degrees F to help get rid of
the ich. Do not feed the fish for a few days. I suspect that when you went away
your well meaning friend overfed your fish tipping the aquariums sensitive
balance over the edge. The ammonia levels went through the roof and your fish
got stressed and sick. Treating a dirty tank is an up hill battle. Organics in
the water absorbs much of the medication so a clean tank is much more effective.
When you treated the tank for ich the medication may have killed or at least
affected the good bacteria in your filter system so watch and test for ammonia
and nitrite spikes while treating this time. I would do daily water changes
until the fish show signs of getting better.-Chuck>
Robert
New Tank + No QT = ICK
Hi and thanks for having such a great site. Here's my setup: 20 gallon
freshwater tank, whisper filter, heater usually set to 77 but is at 86 right
now, live plants, 20w full spectrum fluorescent bulb, 1 powder blue Gourami, 2
clown loaches, water treated with AquaPlus tap water conditioner, no hospital
tank
my tank is newly set up, and is just about done with the 1st cycle, ammonia=0,
nitrites= trace, nitrates=12.5, pH= 7.2.
My problem is Ick and an unknown white fuzzy patch.
One of the clown loaches has Ick, a persistent case of it actually. I have been
treating the tank with Ich Attack for over a week now and the ich is now worse
than it ever was. Saturday (one week after first treatment) I doubled
the dosage (as was recommended on the bottle for severe infections), and have
been double dosing it every day since. The LFS told me not to do any water
change or gravel vac until the ich is gone. (I had been doing a 20% water
change
and gravel vac daily during the first week of treatment prior to this last Sat)
The odd thing (to me) is, that only one of the clown loaches has ich, the
other one is fine! And the Gourami does not have ich either.
White fuzzy patch on the powder blue Gourami's dorsal fin (fungus??/mold??). The
spot is on the very top of the fin (on the top edge) When I first noticed the
white spot, I thought it was ich. This spot however has grown to just a
tad bigger than the head of a pin and looks in appearance to be fuzzy. It is
only this one very small spot and is not growing rapidly at all, nonetheless, is
still there and I don't want for it to become a problem. Of course during the
first week of treatment this spot has not gotten any better and has grown ever
so slightly.
The Ich Attack claims to be 100% organic and treats diseases caused by Ich,
Fungus, Protozoans and Dinoflagellates. Directions say to add 1 teaspoon of Ich
Attack for every 10 gallons of aquarium water. Repeat dosage daily for one
week. For severe infections the daily treatment may be increased by 50-100%
(1.5 to 2 teaspoons) and the treatment continued for longer thank 1 week. For
Ich (white spots) treat for 3-4 days after the last spots are gone. Do at
least a 20% water change at the end of treatment. As I said, the first week I
used the initial dosage. Since Saturday I have been double dosing and the ich on
the loach is worse than ever. He does rub on the gravel and ornaments more now
too. He eats just fine and acts fine otherwise.
I am new to this stuff and am not sure of what different meds might be used on
delicate loaches and also with live plants in the tank. Also of growing concern
is the white fuzzy patch on the Gourami (who is also eating and acting just
fine). I have looked and looked for info on fungus similar to what he has to no
avail, or maybe it's just so new that it doesn't yet resemble pics that I have
seen of other fish with fungus. I do not have a digital camera so I
cannot provide a picture of it (not that even a pic would do much good as it is
so small). Do you have any recommendations as to what I should do to deal with
the ich and this white fuzzy spot? I am truly at a loss here and from all I
read, LFS is not my friend and only will direct me to spend money on things that
will not help my fish.
Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated! And thank you in advance for
your help!
Nancy
<Hi Nancy, Don here. Please start the water changes again using the gravel vac.
This is very important. The parasite reproduces in the gravel. Do not add any
more of the med. Great to see you are testing, you will need to continue for a
while. You do have two problems here, but the cure is the same. Salt. Please
read here on it's proper use.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showquestion.php?faq=2&fldAuto=32 Take note of
the Ick lifecycle and continue to treat for at least 2 weeks after the last spot
drops. If during treatment many spots disappear suddenly, vac the gravel very
well. They will still be alive and setting up to reproduce. Getting them out
before this happens will give you a 1,000 to 1 return on your efforts. The salt
will kill any you miss. Salt is 100% effective and will also knock off the
fungus. However the levels needed will at least stress, if not kill, the
bacteria in your filter. You will need to recycle after treatment. See the
hassle (and lives) a QT tank can save you now?>
Ich
Dear crew,
<Linda>
I have two female guppies that appear to have ich (small white spots on their
fins and body). I have been using Ich Guard for several days, and the one that
first had ich seems more active and generally better (though she is still has a
few spots), but the other did get sick (only a few spots). I have been putting
the Ich Guard in every night after a 25% water change, and I have been vacuuming
the gravel. I don't want to continue the medication much longer though, because
I can't believe extended treatment is good for the tank. The temperature in the
tank is probably low, because I don't have a heater. Would a heater help?
<Yes, very much so>
How gradually do you heat the water?
<Can be raised several degrees quickly (hours), but should be lowered a degree
or two per day>
Is there anything else I can put in to help?
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm and the Related
FAQs (linked above)>
By the way, I have 6 guppies in all--3 female, 2 male, and 1 fry, who seems to
have been born during this mess, does not seem ill-affected by the medication...
<I strongly suspect the medication is only transient here... not staying about,
doing much>
...and is doing a great time hiding as I only see him when I vacuum the gravel.
Thanks for your help, Linda
<With the addition of the heater, medication, you should see no spots within a
few days... Bob Fenner> Re: Ich
Thank you so much for your help. I have purchased the aquarium heater and
have started heating the water. I was concerned about your comment that the
medication I was using was only transient...
<Some "stick around" much longer than others>
...so I did switch to some other medication I had used for an earlier problem,
Fungus Cure. This medication isn't specifically for ich, but the ingredients
seemed really similar: Victoria Green B and Neutroflavine for Fungus Cure versus
Victoria Green, Nitromersol, and Acriflavine for Ich Guard.
<Yes, a Jungle Brands product>
I hope I haven't made a mistake. I know, though, that the Fungus Cure stuff
stays around long enough to cure problems.
<Yes, the Acriflavine color is quite useful as an indicator>
It turns my aquarium green until I put the activated carbon back in my filter,
whereas the Ich Guard turns my aquarium blue for about an hour and then is clear
again.
<Mmm, it should be staying blue longer... evidence of interaction with your
water, decor, gravel (?) and its removal>
Please let me know if I am on the wrong course. I saw the one baby guppy this
morning, so I know the new stuff didn't kill him off.
<I think you have made an improvement here. With elevated temperature a cure
should be effected... and its obviousness apparent soon. Bob Fenner>
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The Joy of Ick
Hi, I am getting back into the "Joy" of aquarium ownership after about 10
years of time off from the hobby as my daughter recently got one for her
Birthday. I have a 10 gallon aquarium with an Aqua Tech Bio Filtration System
along with a bubble curtain. In the tank are 2 Swordtails Male & Female; 2 Red
Flame Dwarf Gouramis; 2 Guppies Male & Female; 1 Algae Eater.
OK, here is my question. When I originally began to purchase fish for my tank
about 3 weeks ago a male sword tail developed Ick. I believe that he may have
brought it with him as it became present the day after I brought him home and
there were no other fish in the tank except for the guppies and they were both
fine and showed no signs of illness. He died about a day and a half later. I
began treating for Ick using Jungle Ick Clear. The male Guppy developed Ick on
his head and the other fish began picking at him so I placed him in an aquarium
net breeder as the picking developed into a sore. The guy at the fish store said
for me to continue treating for the Ick for 30 days and to use Mela Fix for
seven days to help with the sore and to prevent secondary infections. He also
told me that my guppies would probably die.
I have been putting the Ick meds 1/2 tablet in the AM as well as the 25% water
change and the Mela Fix in the evening. The Directions on the Ick meds Say to
add 1 tablet and if it doesn't clear then to repeat it every 24 hours along with
a 25% water change until gone. The Ick has cleared up on the Guppies head and
his sore is looking a lot better.
The Ick clear ingredients are Victoria Green, Acriflavine and the Mela Fix is
Melaleuca. Do I need to make any changes or do I continue to do what I am doing
and how long do I really need to treat for the Ick?
Is there another medicine that is better or that might work faster. If I have
to continue getting up extra early then I will, but it sure would be nice to get
some extra sleep.
The Guppies were my cycle fish so I figured that they would die and now that
they have made it I am really rooting for him. As of now the other fish seem to
be doing fine. Thanks in advance for your help. Your site has been invaluable to
me. Sincerely, Christi
<Your fish are getting better, so I do not want you to stop or change what you
are doing. It was good advice to treat for 30 days. It was also a little
self-serving since he's selling you all that expensive medicine when salt is all
you needed. Salt is cheap, less stressful on the fish and is 100% effective.
Please read here on Ick.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showquestion.php?faq=2&fldAuto=32 Take
note of the life cycle and continue treatment for at least 2 weeks after the
last spot drops. Always, do water changes with a gravel vac. The parasite
reproduces on the bottom of the tank. You should be testing your water until you
are sure your bio filtration is re-established. Also, when stocking guppies or
swords it is best to have one male and 3 or 4 females. The males are aggressive
breeders and can harass a lone female to death. Best to spread out the
aggression. Don>
The Joy of Ick part2
Hi Don, Thanks for your help and for reassuring me. Other things in my life
are a bit hairy right now and keeping this tank has been great therapy. So when
everyone else is pointing out how wrong I am, It was nice to hear that I am
doing "something" right. Sadly Mr. Guppy didn't make it this morning. Although
the guy recommended the meds in the hopes of me buying them all from him, I went
to Wal-mart and saved $2.00 to $3.00 on the products. I do have Aquarium Salt
(which the helpful lady at Wal-mart recommended, not the guy from the fish
store) and I added it when I first set up the tank and when I made water
changes. In the article it said to raise the level by 1ppm per day. I am trying
to figure out how to do this in real measurements. Such as do I use a tablespoon
or teaspoon and how many. My hubby is a scientist and he can figure it out but
he is at work right now, so I will have him do the figuring when he gets home.
Side note: I knew about needing more females to go with my males but the "guy"
said that I can't have any more fish. He said that what I had was all that my
tank could handle. Since I do not have the money or room for anything bigger I
kept it at what he recommended. Thanks again and I will keep up with what I am
doing unless you recommend different. Have a great day. Sincerely, Christi
<Then using salt at these levels you can not measure by volume. The salt should
be weighed or a refractor should be used. I once weighed out a dose of 76 grams
using course aquarium salt. It was over a 1/4 cup. Did the same with a finer
grain Kosher salt and it was about an eighth of a cup. Same amount of salt, but
the grain size makes a big difference in it's volume. We're near the upper
limits for the fish here, so we can't make a mistake. Weigh it out or pick up a
refractor. I make a brine with tank water and added it back over two days. No
problems. As to the guppy stocking. Again you got good advice as to number of
fish, it's just the mix that is off, IMO. With the male guppy gone you could
return the female and pick up another lady sword. Don>
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