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| FAQs on Freshwater Velvet Parasite Disease
Related Articles: FW Velvet, Freshwater Fish
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Choose Your Weapon: Freshwater Fish Disease
Treatment Options by Neale Monks,
Formalin/Formaldehyde,
Malachite Green,
Related FAQs: FW Fish
Parasitic Disease 1, Ich/White Spot Disease,
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Aquarium Maintenance, FW Infectious
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Cichlid Disease, Betta
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Treating Velvet and Mouth Fungus with Lace Synodontis in the
tank – 09/08/09
Hi there,
<Hello,>
My son pushed too fast to set up his tank and now has problems with
velvet and mouth fungus, and possibly some ich. There are three Danios
that definitely show signs of both the velvet and mouth fungus.
<I see.>
The problem is complicated by the fact that he also has a very sweet and
lovely large lace Synodontis catfish who we have totally fallen in love
with and she seems very sensitive to medication.
<Yes, this species (genus, family) can be. Removing to a quarantine tank
would be one solution.>
The tank is 50 gallons and these are all the inhabitants: 5 small green
tiger barbs, 3 large Danios, the lace Synodontis, a small bristle nose
catfish, a small clown loach, an ngara, a blue dwarf Gourami, and an
algae
eating shark. It is a planted tank, but the plants can be replaced if
they don't survive treatment.
<Bit of a mixed collection! Not entirely convinced this selection of
fish will work in the long term. Ngara, for example, are Aulonocara
cichlids, and semi-aggressive, as well as fussy about water chemistry.
Clown Loaches don't stay small for long; adults are some 11 inches/27 cm
long. And so on.>
Do you have any suggestions for how we can eliminate the mouth fungus
and the velvet? We tried Rid Ich+, but the Synodontis seemed very
bothered by it.
<Various catfish are indeed sensitive to copper and formalin, so that
limits the range of options. Ordinarily, you'd treat Ick and Velvet
using a salt/heat method (raise temperature to around 82-86 F, add 2-3
level
teaspoons of tonic salt per US gallon of water. Run thus for about two
weeks. Keeping the tank dark (cover with a blanket) also helps, since
the free-living stage needs light.>
We have also used Melafix, which keeps the mouth fungus down, but does
not seem strong enough to totally cure it (and doesn't seem to do much,
if anything, for the velvet).
<Mouth Fungus is bacterial, and Melafix is a weak bactericide, at best.
Use a proper antibiotic such as Maracyn if you can, or else an
antibacterial based on an organic dye if antibiotics aren't easily
available in your region. I happen to like eSHa 2000, but there are
numerous other brands, such as Seachem Paraguard that work well too.
Read the instructions, and don't forget to remove carbon (if used) when
necessary. Don't mix medications, although you can use *one* medication
alongside salt without problems.>
Thanks very much for any help you can provide.
<While Velvet comes in with new fish, Mouth Fungus is triggered by
environmental issues, and this is something you must review. You can
keep treating the fish as much as you want, but if the underlying causes
(typically poor filtration, overfeeding, and/or overstocking) are
present, the problem will keep coming back. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Treating Velvet and Mouth Fungus with Lace Synodontis in
the tank 9/9/09
Neale,
<Constance,>
Thank you so very much for your advice and for responding so quickly.
<My pleasure.>
We'll get on it today. This is a fairly new project and my kid was not
properly changing the water and filter at first, which is a big part of
the problem we are dealing with now. We are on top of the water quality
now.
<Good stuff.>
We'll start cycling a sick tank, but in the meantime we'll try the
aquarium salt treatment and antibiotic. (And maybe we'll move Ngara into
the second tank after it is cycled and when it isn't being used as a
hospital because you are right that s/he is aggressive.)
<Indeed; a nice species, a very nice species in fact, but does need a
Malawi community setting really, perhaps mixed with the superb
Labidochromis caeruleus "Yellow Lab" for a nice contrast.>
I just want to double check that adding this much aquarium salt will
likely be tolerated by the lace Synodontis and bristle nose catfish. I
have read that some catfish cannot deal with salt.
<It's a misunderstanding about the salt. For a start, at least two
families of catfish live in the sea! Several other families have species
that enter brackish water. In any case, the amount of salt you are
adding is trivially low. Let's say you add 3 level tsp of salt. It's a
little under 0.25 oz per tsp, so that's about 0.75 tsp per US gallon.
Normal seawater contains about 4.75 ounces of salt per US gallon, so
what you're adding to your aquarium is actually about one-twentieth the
salinity of normal seawater. There's probably more salt in a can of soda
pop than that! It's really a very, very harmless dosage. While you
wouldn't want to use this addition of salt on a permanent basis, for a
couple of weeks it's a safer way to treat against Ick and Velvet that
copper- and formalin-based medications.>
With gratitude,
Constance
<Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Treating Velvet and Mouth Fungus with Lace Synodontis in
the tank 9/9/09
great! any place I can order the eSHa 2000 in the US? Or should I just
settle for Seachem ParaGuard?
<So far as I know, eSHa products are exclusively sold in Europe. Seachem
Paraguard is at least as good, and while it doesn't contain copper or
formalin, it does contain malachite green, so if you do decide to use
it,
watch your catfish carefully. Malachite green isn't copper (despite the
name) but an organic dye, and while these should be harmless, you never
know.
http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/ParaGuard.html
eSHa 2000 contains a different organic dye, and while my Synodontis (and
pufferfish) never complained, as always, your own mileage may vary. You
might decide to opt for Maracyn or a similar antibiotic because of this.
Cheers, Neale.>
Betta with Velvet - almost out of ideas, very worried
9/2/09
Hi guys,
<Hello,>
I have been treating a Betta for Velvet for several months. I started
with CopperSafe, carefully measured in a medical syringe. That seemed to
be working at first, but after weeks of gradual improvement he would
suddenly have a relapse, and it would start over again -- improvement
followed by relapse. Eventually, by reading your site and a few others,
I got wise to raising the temperature, treating him in a hospital tank,
and turning off/blocking out any lights. But the pattern continued.
<Do you use carbon in the filter? Remember to remove this when treating
fish.>
In desperation, I switched to Rid-Ich. This seemed to be working --
steady, slow improvement with no major relapses. But it's been over a
month now, and the improvement is very, very slow. So slow that I'm no
longer sure if he's getting better or staying the same. He's been almost
recovered for a over week now, but it's still on his head and faintly
visible on his body.
<I see.>
He's in a five-gallon tank, kept at 84-85 degrees. The carbon filter has
been removed, along with everything else. I'm feeding him daily,
pre-soaking his food and giving him a variety. The towel is only off his
tank for about 15 minutes per day, and the rest of the time he just has
a small opening in the front to see if it's day or night (thought that
might be important). If there's anything else relevant about his
environment I forgot to mention please let me know.
<Velvet (Piscinoodinium pillulare) is a disease that usually gets into
aquaria. It doesn't, so far as is known, lurk in tanks for years at a
time, waiting to jump onto unsuspecting fish. In fact the free-living
stage must
find a host within ~48 hours or it dies. So, the first thing to figure
out is [a] if this really is Velvet, and [b] how it got into your
aquarium.>
In addition to the medication and darkness, I've also been adding 1/2
teaspoon of salt per gallon.
<Do need rather more salt than this... at least 10 grammes per 45 litres
(about one teaspoon per 5 US gallons). Possibly more, up to 2-3
teaspoons per US gallon may be necessary.>
I cannot find an answer as to how much is best, that seemed like a good
guess, can't seem to find a saline test in any LFS. As I understood the
Rid-Ich instructions, the idea is to keep the concentration the same
(.5mL per gallon) while changing 1/4 of the water daily. I have been
doing this, but when his improvement slowed to a near-stop I went to 1/2
daily water changes, again maintaining the concentrations of salt and
Rid-Ich. I even suction the water from the bottom of the tank, imagining
that I am vacuuming reproductive cysts in the process. I don't know if
this is helping.
<Marginally, to be honest.>
I don't know if anything is helping. I don't know why he wasn't better a
long, long time ago.
<Are you sure this is Velvet?>
He's still active, eating and trying to get attention, but I'm starting
to wonder if the poor guy is going to have to live what's left of his
life in the dark, in poisonous blue water. His fins have started getting
a little
ragged, too. I don't know what to make of this, but from what I've read
it doesn't seem like any fungal or bacterial fin rot could survive in
there, so I'm wondering if the Rid-Ich is causing it somehow. I'm very
concerned in any case, I know this stuff is poisonous and I want out of
his tank ASAP, but I'm afraid without it the bugs would overrun him in a
few days. I'm afraid to experiment, terrified of another relapse. Please
help, what else can I do? And why is this taking so long?
Thanks,
Milo
<I'm concerned that you're actually looking at something else, e.g., a
"slime disease" type thing, where there's a bacterial infection of the
skin, resulting in excess production of off-white slime on the body.
This
can (usually) be fixed with antibiotics or suitable anti-bacterials.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Betta with Velvet - almost out of ideas, very worried
9/2/09
Thanks for the quick response, Neale.
<You're welcome.>
I have wondered too how Velvet got introduced. Some time ago I gave away
the fish that lived in another aquarium, and the folks who took them
used their own net. Even though it was a different tank, there may have
been some accidental contamination. That was shortly before my Betta got
sick.
<Sounds possible.>
As to whether or not it is really Velvet, I've never been 100% sure. It
doesn't look like "dust," as it is so often described. I don't see
individual particles, but it's a coating that is thicker when viewed at
an angle and thinner viewed in profile. It is a brown, rusty color, not
"off-white."
<Velvet is usually a distinctive metallic sheen, hence the name, and
tends to attack the gills first, so you usually see heavy (or rapid)
breathing alongside the other symptoms. It's actually pretty rare, in
the UK at
least, when compared to Whitespot/Ick -- in 25 years of keeping fish,
I've never seen it!>
To keep things short, I didn't mention that at first I only noticed
swollen gills and eyes and treated him with a course of Maracyn,
followed by Maracyn II. Neither had any effect. I began treating with
CopperSafe when I noticed the rust coloring, and he improved immediately
although, as I explained, he has never made a full recovery. Also, if it
was a bacterial infection, wouldn't the Rid-Ich kill it regardless?
<No, anti-Ick medications treat against specific Protozoans, not
bacteria.>
How do I determine if this is or is not Velvet? I need to be sure before
I change course.
<I agree, diagnosis is important. Any chance of a photo? A reasonably
sharp one, please! In the meantime, both Ick and Velvet should be cured
by appropriate use of heat and salt, so increase the salinity as
mentioned earlier, and see what happens. At the least, this won't harm
your fish. If that doesn't work, and the fish continues to develop
ragged fins, then treat for Finrot. I'd try something a little more
general purpose than Maracyn, perhaps Something like Seachem ParaGuard
for example.>
Thanks again,
Milo
<Cheers, Neale.>
Velvet help (orig thread
6/06) 5/16/09
Hello Folks, I am back again (original post, same issue, "Need help with
velvet, please!! 6/06) in search of any understanding you may be able to
shed on my continuing situation with my 7 clown loaches. I have believed
this to be velvet. Tiny dots over top of fish's heads, no spots on body,
<Mmm, not Velvet/Oodinium... your fish/es would be dead...>
absolutely impossible to get rid of. There is one fish in particular
that never seems to be spot-free. These clown loaches have been
quarantined at least 3 times for months at a time and medicated in every
possible way imaginable over this time, including long term salt, salt
dips, acriflavine/salt/dark, methylene blue dips, raised temps (low
90's), velvet guard, rounds of Maracide, Coppersafe, Cupramine..
<Yikes... I'd stay away from copper containing treatments with
Cobitids... too toxic>
there might be more, I can't quite remember at this point. Had I known
this would go on for so long, I most certainly would've kept a notebook!
<Ahh, a good idea>
Each time, fish are quarantined, treated, observed closely, moved back
to main tank (after minimum of 3 months at a time in QT-main tank left
to go fallow during these times). Under the lighting in my QT tank (29g)
they can appear to be spot-free, I move them back into main tank, then
again see dots.
There is one main fish that always seems to have spots, while others
will appear "clear" in main tank after treatments.
Most recently (January 2009), I noticed that not only the main fish had
the dots again, but that they seemed to be spreading to the other
loaches heads again, they were hiding more, etc. After attempting to
treat this seemingly same "disease" since 2006, I was feeling skeptical
about my chances of curing it once and for all. Pulled all fish out of
main tank (2/09), back into fully cycled 29g. QT. It was then I
proceeded to treat with Cupramine full strength as I'd read others
having good luck with it. Didn't seem to work so after carbon in filter
and waiting a couple of weeks, I did 2 back-to-back full- strength
treatments of Maracide. Again, all fish appeared dot-free except one
large loach (always the same fish). Afraid of dosing them again so soon,
I waited a bit and ordered some ESHa Exit, hearing good things from
loach owners with ick and velvet. I went ahead and did the extended
treatment described in the directions. I even went 5 full days just to
try to push it a little as this obviously isn't going away easily and
because I would have no idea what additional medications to try after
that didn't work. During the months the loaches were in QT, I converted
their 120 gallon main tank into a river tank (with under-sand pvc river
tank manifold). The tank is consistently PH 7, nitrates 20-30ish,
nitrites 0, ammonia 0, filtered by 2 Eheim 2217 canister filters and now
2 Maxi jet 1200 powerheads for current. Fish again "appeared" spot free
for weeks after last QT ESHa Exit treatment, and were returned to newly
designed 120g. river tank approx. 2 weeks ago. They do seem to love the
current in the new tank and have fun playing in it all day long. I got a
close look at the main problem fish this morning though, and it's head
is getting covered again in dots, however the dots appear somewhat
larger to me now. I have no idea what to even think about trying at this
point and am hoping you can offer some sort of wisdom here? It would
seem that having the tank salted for such a long time has held off the
parasite somewhat, though it appears to never be completely eradicated.
Where none of the medications have worked over such a long period of
time, I suspected some sort of water problem, but honestly I have no
idea what to think or do at this point.
<Nor any real idea of what you're treating... A shame you didn't defer
to using a microscope to examine what this might actually be here... But
if you elect to continue your blind treatment, look into Levamisole
here... as I suspect "flukes" of some sort... rather than a Protozoan
complaint... Or best, a QX series scope... Instructions on use are
archived on WWM. BobF>
Many, many thanks again for any advice you can offer!
Sondra
Freshwater velvet : the
clean-up 5/10/09
Hi all -
I just need a bit of advice - I don't know anyone who keeps fish that I
can talk this over with. I've read the FAQs, and have used your best
advice so far (thank you for a wealth of help over the years!), and am
now left with a
quandary.
<Oh?>
I have a 250l fw tank that is at the end of a 7 day treatment for
velvet.
I've lost 26 lovely fishies... I'd like to move the five I have left
into a smaller tank (the one I used to use as a quarantine/hospital
tank) but am unsure how best to do this. Shall I fill it with new water
- is that any worse than parasite riddled water from the big tank?
<If you've treated with a standard formalin/copper Velvet/Ick
medication, any free-living parasites will be dead by now. So there
shouldn't be any difference.>
The filter for the small tank usually lives in the big one to keep it
cycled. Is it now "poisoned" with velvet and meds?
<Not as such, no.>
If I bleach/scald the casing so that the spongy bit inside maintains
it's bacteria, will I transfer velvet into the new set-up?
<The Velvet parasites are dead. Nothing to transfer!>
I can easily clean a couple of handfuls of gravel and a heater, but what
about the plants and the heavily planted bogwood? Are they "poisoned"
too, or will a saltwater soak solve this? Or will that kill the plants?
Have I got time to set the small tank up "as new" - will the remaining
fish suffer any more for staying in the big tank? Or is it better to
just get them out of there asap?
<Your fish should be parasite-free and the water parasite-clear.>
My head is full of questions, and I really don't want the fish to suffer
any more than they already have.
Many thanks again -
Melinda
<Good luck, Neale.>
Re: freshwater velvet : the clean-up
You're amazing. Thank you so much.
<Happy to help! Cheers, Neale.>
Velvet Not Shifting, FW
8/13/08
Hi Crew,
I have a case of velvet in my 125 gallon tank. I quarantined some new
mollies but obviously a week was not long enough! I added some treatment
called Protozin (not sure if they sell this in Canada but it's a well known
and popular protozoacide fungicide in the UK).
<Yes, I know the product but have to confess to not having had 100% success
using it. I find eSHa Exit better for Ick/Velvet.>
My water temperature was 25 degrees but I have raised the temperature to 28
degrees and turned off the light. I have lost 3 of my 12 dwarf neon
rainbowfish and the remaining rainbows are still showing gold areas between
their scales. The treatment instructions advised to add on days 1, 2, 3, and
6 but as there are still signs of the disease I have added some more on day
8.
<You have removed carbon from the filter? A common mistake...>
I am concerned how long this disease is taking to go. Is it possible that I
have misdiagnosed this disease and it is not velvet??
<Most Velvet medications treat Ick, so that sort of misdiagnosis isn't a
problem. Do be aware than Mollies are very prone to sickness when kept in
freshwater. I don't consider them freshwater fish at all, at least not
freshwater *aquarium* fish. Do see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/mollies.htm
>
My pearl gouramis both have shiny goldness around the gills and lower half
of their bodies. The Betta, Swordtail and Pentazona Barbs seem unaffected.
The mollies show a small amount of goldness but this doesn't seem to be
getting better or worse since treatment. Any advice you may have would be
greatly appreciated.
<My recommendation: switch medications.>
Many thanks
Brian
<Cheers, Neale.>
Understanding freshwater
velvet 12/31/07
Hello!
<Eryn>
I've done a thorough search of your site, so I'm fairly certain I'm not
duplicating any answers you've already given. I'm looking for hard facts about
all the different things that can kill Oodinium on equipment. I know bleach is
best, but I'm still curious about Oodinium's other tolerances.
- Is a quick in-out submersion at 1 part bleach to 20 parts water enough, or
does a piece of equipment have to soak for any length of time?
<Sometimes has to soak for five-ten minutes...>
- Is there any temperature that is certain to kill velvet at all its stages? How
long does the temperature need to stay that high?
<Realistic temperature elevation will only speed up the life cycle, shorten
resting stages... in order to kill the water has to be dangerously hot>
- Do you think a typical dishwasher would reliably disinfect a piece of
equipment?
<Yes>
- How long can the cysts survive being dried out (you mentioned in one FAQ that
it's longer than 3 days, but you didn't say how long is reliably long enough)?
<Can be dried in a few ways... last for at least months>
- Is there a fish-safe net dip (other than bleach then dechlorinator) that will
reliably disinfect nets? What concentration should it be used at?
<... see WWM re... some folks use formalin, KMnO3... other materials... with
moderate success. One needs to be careful re poisoning, staining... rinsing off
residual. There is much known (rather than hobbyist re-hashed) re this causative
organism/dinoflagellate... in the sciences, in print books, journals... IF you
really want to know, I'd make a pilgrimage to a large/college library>
Thank you tremendously for your answers.
Eryn
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Velvet, FW 5/18/07
Hello,
<<Hello, Wendy. Tom here.>>
We have just noticed some shiny gold spots on our 2 black skirt tetras and
would like to know if we treat them with the copper treatment will it harm
our three peppered Cory that are also in the tank?
<<If the “gold spots” appear like gold “dust” there’s a good chance this is,
in fact, Velvet. I’d prescribe a bit of caution here only because my Black
Skirt Tetras also display some “shiny gold spots” depending on the lighting
and angle of view. Are the fish “flashing”, i.e. scratching their bodies on
decorations or the substrate? Are their fins clamped close to their bodies?
Are they showing increased signs of having difficulty breathing? These can
be additional signs of an infestation. You must be the best judge, of
course, but with other fish in the picture a little caution is prudent here.
Provided that you choose to go ahead with a treatment and the Tetras can’t
be isolated from the main tank, I’d encourage you to look at treating with
Acriflavine rather than the copper. There are minimal, if any, side effects
involved with its use and it has proved quite effective in treating this
infestation. Without “promoting” the manufacturer, Kordon’s makes an
Acriflavine treatment that can also be removed with its NovAqua water
treatment rather than relying on activated carbon in your filter. Just
throwing it out for what it’s worth.>>
Thanks
Wendy
<<Good luck to you, Wendy. Tom>>
Velvet and a pregnant molly, copper FW trtmt. 2/28/07
I love your website and refer to it often when I have questions or more
often just looking for entertainment. It has been a great resource over the
years. Thanks for all the time put into making such a great information source.
<Welcome!>
I recently added a new silver lyretail molly to my community aquarium, but two
days later it started to show signs of velvet and died pretty quickly. I didn't
quarantine this fish (stupid, I know), and it spread to several other fish,
including all of the mollies and swordtails. I removed my live plants and added
CopperSafe by Mardel, and am keeping the tank well oxygenated with a air pump
since the plants are no longer there to do this. I am also doing partial water
changes (about 15%) every other day to keep nitrate levels down as the plants
(again) are no longer there to take care of this. I also have one tablespoon of
aquarium salt for every 5 gallons of water and have raised the temperature of
the tank to 84 degrees.
<All good moves...>
One of my black mollies is pregnant, and I expect her to give birth within a day
or two, but I know mollies often do not release their babies under stressful
conditions. As she is so far into her pregnancy I have been reluctant to move
her to another tank, but I am worried the stress in this tank could be enough to
keep her from releasing the fry anyway. I am not terribly concerned about the
fry surviving at this point, I just want to give the mother the best possible
chance. Do you have any suggestions? It is a fully cycled tank that has been set
up for about 14 years, with ammonia and nitrites both at 0 and nitrates at
between 5 and 10 ppm. The other fish in the tank currently are two dwarf
gouramis and a small pleco.
Beth
<... Really... to continue doing what you're doing... maybe with (you're likely
doing this but didn't mention it) testing for ammonia... A test kit for FW
copper use would also be a good idea... as with all such treatments, should the
effective/concentration drop too low... and this happens very easily in
established systems... mulm/other absorption... there is no treatment. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Need help with velvet, please!! FW 9/27/06
Hello again,
<Sondra>
I am writing again, in hopes of further help with persistent velvet. Here I am
over 3 months later, still battling velvet in my hospital tank.
<!>
I've lost a couple of yo yos loaches since my last post. All clown loaches still
accounted for, but fins looking rough. Still eating well. Per your suggestion,
tried Maracide for weeks to no avail. Temp has been settled at 78 degrees F for
months now since I became concerned about further stress due to fluctuation. PH
7.8, nitrites 0, nitrates 10. After trying Velvet Guard for weeks, I was
completely out of ideas so I decided to try Coppersafe. Had problems with
erroneous readings from the Seachem copper test kit I was using. Contacted them,
they sent another kit. The 2nd test kit and sample they provided also proved
inaccurate. I switched to an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals copper test kit, even
though my LFS says they pulled them all from their shelves due to problems with
inaccurate readings.
I simply could not locate another freshwater copper test kit that would work for
chelated copper. Currently maintaining a reading of 2.0-ish (hard to tell for
sure with this kit). Honestly, all I seem to be killing with copper is fish (as
expected). Loach with the most noticeable velvet spots has slowly been becoming
more and more covered again. No idea what to do at this point.
I have honestly tried seemingly everything available, some medications multiple
times and for weeks at a time. One "new" thing available at LFS now available
over the counter, Parasite Clear from Jungle Labs (Praziquantel; Diflubenzuron;
Metronidazole; acriflavine).
<Not useful against Oodinium>
Experienced guy at store had no idea what to tell me. Says they use regular
copper (not chelated) for these kinds of things, but suggested perhaps I try
this Parasite Clear as it was something the parasite may not have yet been
exposed to. Neither one of us seemed too confident it would actually work.
Haven't tried it yet. Didn't want to add anything with copper in the tank.
This is the only tank I am running at the moment. The original tank has been
completely broken down.
Would you have any ideas for me at this point? I'm running out of hope for these
fish.
Thanks so much again,
Sondra
<Mmm, for the fishes (cobitids) listed I would try prolonged or higher
concentration salt immersion... 1 tsp per five gallons of water indefinitely, or
1-3 minutes in "full-strength" seawater (35 ppt). Dipped fishes (whose trophonts
have been removed) need to be moved to dinospore-free settings to avoid
re-infection. This should do it... is about the safest, most sure treatment. I
would avoid copper use in soft acidic freshwater... too likely to prove toxic,
hard to control dosage. Placing dark paper around the tank, leaving the lights
off also is of use, as the causative organism is photosynthetic/autotrophic. Bob
Fenner>
Is there any real way to rid a 10 gallon system of Ich or Velvet?
9/5/06
<Yes>
The more
I read the more confused I become. Everything seams geared towards a very
large system. I am not sure how this started, but I noticed tiny white spots
on my two clown loaches 24 hours after treating the tank (sans Kuhlis-they got
moved into a temporary 3 gallon quarantine) with Maracyn for a danio with
"cotton mouth".
<Mmm, I would have treated all in place... the system itself is infested>
Is there any correlation between the 2 diseases?
<Quite possibly yes>
Did the E-mycin treatment cause the Ich to get out of hand and start
munching my fish?
<Mmm, much less likely>
So far I see no other inhabitants with any spots, but I am not sure how to
treat, or what to treat with.
<Elevated temperature and... Posted... Please read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm
and the linked files above>
I am waiting on a 55 gallon to cycle, and was hoping to move everyone in
there, but not with an outbreak of Ich. My water parameters have all been
stable and ideal, so I am not sure how this all got started unless I got an
infected fish to begin with,
<Initially, yes>
and the 10 gallon being the only system cycled, there was no where
to quarantine.
<No need to quarantine... need to treat...>
I also am feeling stupid right now for placing part of my biofilter from
the outside power filter into the new system to help it cycle, and am fearful I
just infected it with Ich. The biofilter chunk was the only thing transferred
to the new system.
I am hoping this will be OK because the cysts are in the gravel, and the
tomites don't live for more than a few days at 78 degrees. Should I raise the
uninhabited 55 gallon to 86 degrees?
<Yes, I would>
Mostly I want to know how and if I can rid my small system of Ich without
killing the fish, and if I have possibly infected the new system. I really
don't want to start over after taking this hobby up again after 20 years!
Sarah W.
<Mmm, do read... silver salt, other medications (read re dosing with
loaches... likely half concentration) and elevated temperature, careful
monitoring of water quality/changes... should do it. Bob Fenner>
Is it velvet? stress? or something else? 7/14/06
Hello,
<Hi there>
I will make this brief as I know you are all busy. I apologize if this
is covered somewhere but I have read all morning and I'm still not sure what to
do!
<Oooh, I can't wait, literally, for the vocal interface twixt these devices...
To heck with keyboards... and much more intuitive "search tools"... can you?>
Set up is 29g freshwater
whisper 30 power filter
temp usually 78 to 80F (82F now)
salted minimally (about 2 tablespoons)
<? For what reason, purpose?>
running with fish for 8 weeks
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate barely 20
GH 150
KH 120
pH 7.8
1 female rainbow platy, 2 (1M 1F) pot bellied
mollies, 2 Cory cats, 3 white skirt tetras
<These last don't "like" salts>
3 weeks ago we lost a female platy to dropsy.
<Symptom... what cause?>
That was when I added the salt and started presoaking the food.
<Ahh, I see>
I have never added anything except that salt and Cycle
<Not a big fan of this Hagen product... almost never functional>
to my tank. The tank has been cleaned and had 40%
<Mmm, too much/%... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwh2ochgs.htm
"and the linked files above".>
water changes weekly since the cycle completed...last time was yesterday.
Finally to my problem. My platy is glancing on the
substrate and plants and this morning I noticed her rubbing against the mollies
as well. I can't see anything on her but she does have a slight gold cast. I
noticed that weeks ago and thought it was just her coloring. She is mostly white
with black fins and tail and a small amount of red orange on her tail. The white
part of her body shows blue green iridescence in the light and has a yellow cast
otherwise. My point being that I can't tell if she has this "dusting of gold"
that indicates velvet. She defiantly
<And definitely?>
has no white spots and she is eating and acting normally other than the glancing
and I've noticed that she has spent a little more time than usual very near the
top of the tank just hanging out, not gasping or anything. The tetras are fairly
new and frisky and I thought she may have just been a little stressed by them...
though it seems they were trying to school with her more than harm her. They
really only nip each other. Also she dropped some fry about 2 weeks ago. I found
9 so far, 8 are in a small plastic breeder that floats in the tank and the
other I found yesterday when cleaning and couldn't catch the little bugger!
There could be more I seem to find some every time I vac. I'm not sure how many
she had we were away when she had them. Interestingly, the 2 I found yesterday
that have been in the tank are almost twice the size of the ones in the breeder
tank...which brings me to the second part of my problem. I set up a tank
yesterday for the fry. A 6g Eclipse carbon pad, bio wheel, etc. I figured I'd
put the fry in it when it was finished cycling and later use it for a QT /
hospital tank. I added Cycle,
<Sub BioSpira for this... trust me>
a silk plant, a small cave, and a few handfuls of substrate from my main tank to
get it started.
<Oooh, good move>
When I noticed the platy glancing last night I raised the temp in the small tank
to 84F and figured I'd watch her for more symptoms thinking, I could always put
her in the new tank if things got bad for her. It is not ideal I know, but at
least I could protect the other fish and the fry. I'm sorry I'm not keeping to
my promise of being brief. I will conclude.
<Let's wrap this sucker up!>
This morning, when I noticed her rubbing against the mollies
I got nervous and salted the small tank excessively ( 2 tablespoons) and put her
in it. I am monitoring her closely as well as the water chemistry( right now it
is the same as the large tank). She seems very relaxed now, swimming regularly
and checking everything out. Also she has not glanced once since she was put
into this tank!!! So, what is the problem?
<Mmm... very likely "environmental stress"... too much change... too often...>
With no other symptoms I don't want to medicate and wouldn't anyway until I know
for sure what the deal is. Could it be velvet?
<Could, but highly unlikely... This protozoan really "whacks 'em" if present...
all would be dead within a few hours to days>
Is the goldish yellow cast normal for her coloring or is that velvet?
<Much more likely the former>
Could she just be recovering from the stress of birthing or the tetras?
<Yep>
Does glancing always mean a problem?
<Nope. Some is "natural"... to be expected... akin to our scratching...>
She has been in the small tank for about 6 hours and has eaten and is acting
normally now... no clamped fins, no rapid breathing. I first noticed the
glancing right after the water change could that be what caused it?
<Oh yes!>
My inclination is to keep her in the small tank and watch her to see if anything
develops but I am very concerned that it is not cycled.
<Mmm, the moved gravel should "do it"... along with careful, low feeding>
I don't want the stress of bad water chemistry to make her sicker, but I also
don't want to risk losing all of my fish. She is a beautiful fish and one of my
first, losing her would be awful but to lose her and all her fry much worse.
The only other thing is that I noticed some small white buggy
things swimming near the bottom of the small tank.
<Don't worry re these either>
They are the size of a pin head. I noticed them because this tank is mostly bare
and I was looking so hard at my platy they caught my eye. They could be in the
large tank too but would be much harder to see on the substrate. I read
somewhere that they are copepods (sorry not sure of that spelling) and actually
good for the tank as they eat brown algae and fish like to eat them. They sure
make good fry food anyway. So, maybe they are not what I think they are and
worthy of note.
<Are worthwhile to mention, and no problem>
My longwinded brief problem may be nothing more than me being paranoid, but I
just would rather be safe than sorry. Thank you in advance for any help/ info
you can give,
Heidi
<Bob Fenner>
Need help with velvet, please!! Need for WWM article, FAQs f' for, place in
FW medications FAQs f' 6/12/06
Hello,
<Hi there>
I apologize in advance for the size of this message. I have been battling a
persistent case of freshwater velvet in my 55 gallon, PH 7.1, ammonia-0,
nitrites-0, nitrates-10, temp 83 degrees F for past week or so, and am desperate
for help! Posting on the loach forum hasn't helped as it seems not many people
have had this experience. At this point, remembering the exact duration of the
medications I've used could be a bit sketchy. Residents of the tank include 5
clown loaches, 3 yo yo loaches, 3 harlequin rasboras, one stray cardinal tetra
and one black phantom tetra (both leftover from an older setup). I was planning
a larger tank with additional tetras, more room for my loaches, etc when this
struck. The tank has been running for approximately 3 years seemingly disease
free. Tank originally had a Home Depot play sand substrate. Just prior to the
velvet outbreak, I had converted this to a planted tank with
eco-complete/Tahitian moon sand substrate (wouldn't do Tahitian moon sand again,
tough on impellers). Most of the plants by this time have been destroyed/eaten
by the loaches. Surviving plants have since been moved to a small 5 gallon tank
with no fish, except for one hunk of java moss, attached to some bogwood.
<Okay>
First off, in hindsight I have to say that one of the yo yos (in the tank for
approximately a year or so) had been flashing on and off since its addition to
the tank. I'd see it for a bit, then it would seem to stop. I originally thought
the velvet came with the live plants
<Unusual, but possibly carried...>
I added approx. 2 or so months ago,
<Mmm, not likely if for this long>
but now I wonder if the yo yos have had it the whole time.
<Also not typical... there are "velvet free systems" (as opposed to "residual"
Ichthyophthirius>
At first I wasn't sure if it was ich or velvet. No experience with velvet and
only had ich years ago in my first tank. Largest loach's whole head was covered
in very fine dots and eventually a dusty gold coloring,
<More like velvet>
paler than usual, a bit more skittish and hiding more. No spots on body or fins,
but you could see exactly how far back on his body his slime coat was affected.
For awhile, that was the only noticeable fish with spots, though I thought one
of the yo yo's color had changed to a more yellowish, kind of sickly color. Also
noticed then that they (yo yos) seemed sort of "bottomed out". They would swim a
bit, sink to the bottom, sit for awhile, swim a bit more, stop suddenly and just
sit. Jerky movements, behavior different than before.
First treatment started April 31, 2006-10 days of Rid Ich by Kordon. Had had
great results with this in the past for ich.
<If this was ich... I would have first tried Mardel's "Maracide" given the
make-up of what you list here as livestock>
There were 20-40%ish water changes in between each type of medicine/treatment
that I used here, always with thorough gravel vac.
<Oh! And this in your main tank? Likely the Malachite Green was immediately
absorbed by the substrate>
When the Rid Ich didn't seem to work, I went to an old (original
loach-safe-at-full-strength formula) of Maracide until that ran out after 5
days.
Tried raising temps up to 88 degrees F
<Both good>
at one point for about 10 days or so, I believe, with 2 Coralife UV sterilizers
hooked up in tandem (9w and 18w), until I got nervous having heat so high with
no meds.
<!?>
I originally bought the larger UV sterilizer for the larger tank I was planning.
<Ultraviolet light won't effect such cures...>
Read good things about Seachem Paraguard. Used that for appox. 10 days or so.
Somewhere around this time, I noticed my nitrates slowly disappearing. Then
checked for nitrites and was getting a reading of 2.5ppm.
<Yeeikes!>
Controlled that via water changes over a few days, ended up back at 0ppm.
Nitrates seem fine now (about 10-15ppm). Just before the spike, I had removed an
Emperor 400 filter from the tank (was running with an Eheim 2213) for months.
The Tahitian moon sand had damaged 2 Emperor filters over the months after I had
changed the substrate. Tried replacing the impellers, to no avail. The filter
was just so noisy I couldn't stand it anymore. Also, at the same time, I covered
my eco-complete/Tahitian moon sand substrate with gravel to help keep it out of
the water column. Thus the nitrite spike, I believe. I turned off the UV
sterilizers at this point, thinking perhaps they may some slight affect on the
rebuilding of the nitrates. Also I wasn't sure about the UVs possible affect on
any meds.
<Can "plate out" some formulations of copper compounds... You haven't used these
from what you've listed>
Right around this time was when I noticed many of the fish had much more rapid
gilling. Added an airstone, and that has helped a lot. Read good things about
Jungle Ich Guard. Tried that for 1 week, once at full dose out of desperation.
Recently read on loach forum to add salt to 2.75 tsps/gallon over a few days as
a general treatment for parasites. Not sure if this is enough to eliminate
velvet?
<Not generally effective>
I am at that level now (over 4 day period) with Aquatrol Acriflavine dosed per
directions, 2 drops/gallon and replaced with water changes. Acriflavine in tank
now for 3 days. Should I dose the whole tank again at 2 drops/gallon as per
directions?
<... You shouldn't be treating the main tank period...>
Loaches appear mostly the same but are definitely more stressed, one a bit more
pale, one now with a torn fin. Lights have been off/tank covered for
approximately 1 week, prior to that, lights were mostly on. Largest, most
heavily covered loach, still looks about the same, as do the others. All fish
still eating, though the largest loach not quite as hungrily, haven't lost any
fish yet. Been vaccing gravel/changing water approx every 2 days except during
earlier treatments of Rid Ich and Maracide. I have wanted to dip the largest
loach, but there is no way to catch this fish. I can't even follow him with my
eyes!
I have no idea what else to do at this point. I'm feeling drained, but trying
not to give up. I bought some Coppersafe and a copper test kit. I know alot of
people advise against it and I'm afraid to use it as I have no experience, but I
will be officially out of ideas when/if this salt/acriflavine treatment doesn't
work. Would you please have any advice to offer? Again, so sorry for the long
post, it's been a long road. Once again, it's the quarantine lesson learned the
hard way.
Thank you kindly for your help! I always enjoy your advice to others,
Sondra
<Sondra... whatever treatment regimen you settle on, the medication needs to
occur outside the system... too much of what is there will interfere, absorb the
treatment chemical/s... I'd go back with Maracide, elevated temperature... in a
hospital tank... monitoring water quality... allowing the main tank (with a
thorough gravel vacuuming to remove mulm, etc....) to go "fallow" (sans fish
hosts) for a month or more...
Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwfishmedfaqs.htm
for ancillary background. Bob Fenner>
Re: Need help with velvet, please!! 6/15/06
Hi Bob,
<Sondra>
Thanks so much for your reply! Correction to my original email. My nitrite
reading was .25, not 2.5. Sorry about that!
<No worries>
Ok, per your suggestion, got all fish from main tank. Now settled into 29g
quarantine tank (because it was handy). Temp is currently at 83 degrees F.
You recommended Maracide. The new formula is said to be not completely "loach
safe". Are you recommending I use that at half dose or full dose with
5 clown loaches, 3 yo yo loaches, 3 harlequin rasboras, and two tetras?
<If these cobitids/loaches are "pretty plump", in otherwise good shape, and your
water isn't "totally" soft, I would use the full recommended dose>
Also, would it be advisable to raise temp further to treat velvet?
<If you otherwise have good "enough" circulation/aeration, the animals don't
seem otherwise overly taxed, yes... 85-88... F.>
Thanks so much again for your help, you guys are the best!
Sondra
<We try. Good luck, life my friend. Bob Fenner>
Velvet 1/21/06
Hey there! It's me again!
The blue crown tail that I previously asked about has an update!
Remember I said he was listless? well... a few days ago, I noticed he had this
fine golden dust-y looking stuff on him. Now, growing up with fish, I knew
EXACTLY what my betta (and the betta next to it, unfortunately) had. VELVET!!!
<Mmmm>
so, i put some Meth Blue in the water... (don't worry, i followed directions!)
and gave them a PROMPT water change.
my questions are this:
1) How long does/will Velvet last?
<Days to a couple weeks... if treated properly>
2) Is Meth Blue okay to use on my fish?
<Yes>
3) My red betta that has Velvet is peeling. It looks like he is shedding a few
scales. Is this normal? What is this?
<Mucus, body slime>
THANKS A LOT!!!
<No such word as alot. Bob Fenner>
Renee
|
Endler's Game - 10/28/2005
Hi, how are you?
<Beat, pooped, exhausted, drained - and soooo ready for a quick hike before bed!
Woo-hoo!>
I searched the site up and down before emailing and I can't find the questions
and answers that I am looking for. So here I am emailing you. :)
<And here I am answering. Oh, Sabrina with you this evening.>
I have been raising fish for about 2 years now and I have been having some
problems with one of my tanks. I invested in some Endler's (total Endler's -
12). I cycled the water before purchasing these little guys. The pH, Ammonia,
Alkalinity, Nitrates and Nitrites matched the water from the pet gallery almost
down to the T.
<Hopefully ammonia and nitrite are zero, nitrate less than 20ppm....?>
I added them to the tank about 1 1/2 months ago and when I added them some were
a little stressed out, but slowly got better. Well, about 2 weeks ago I lost 1
female and 1 male. The girl looked like she was gasping for air and her fins
were almost all clamped up, the pH is always 7.0, and all nitrates, nitrites,
ammonia, etc... Is always where it should be.
<Hopefully as above....>
Then the male he would just float at the bottom of the tank "almost look like he
was relaxing" but I guess that wasn't the case, he relaxed one last time and
died.
<Yikes! Bummer.>
Well, I have some other females and one has her fins so clamped together she
almost looks numb, her top and bottom fins look like they are almost gone, and
her tail fin is almost white transparent looking and it's totally clamped
together and the white translucent color travels up to the middle of her
stomach.
<Does NOT sound good. My first guess here is toward "velvet"/Oodinium.... I've
seen this in livebearers, guppies especially, many times.... is often fatal, but
can be treated. Many folks recommend "Clout" for this.... I have used
Metronidazole in food with some success.>
This is what she looked like when I first got her.
<Beautiful.>
I wish I still had a cam so you could see what she looks like now. HUGE
DIFFERENCE NOW!
<Again, bummer. So sorry to hear this.>
I moved her alone, because she started floating to the top with her mouth at the
surface of the water and the bottom of her body was moving all ways, but with a
stiff look. Like if you moved side to side with no flexibility.
<My guess is still toward Oodinium.>
Then my guppy had some fry and out of 8 of them, 3 of them are having almost the
same exact symptoms, they were in the Endler's' tank in a breeding net, but I
removed them into another 10 gallon tank of mine and its to is totally cycled
"Been cycled for about 1 year" and I noticed on all of them it looks like their
fins have been almost chomped on, but I haven't had any of the fry together with
any other type fish. I've been watching them for about 4 days for about 1 hr at
a time, then decided to put the camera on them for 24 hours and they are not
nipping at one another. One of the fry back fin it's so gone it can't even swim
and the other 3 have no top fins, its almost like their fins just flaked/chomped
off.
<I think I'd try Metronidazole on these guys.... ASAP.... or Clout (though
that's a much stronger/harsher med).>
They all eat really well and are growing really fast. And another thing that the
guppies and the Endler's have been doing "Only the ones with clamped fins" they
back up into one another. And like lets say one of the guppies with clammed fins
back up into one without clamped fins, the one without clamped fins will clamp
its tail fin up. I even went as far as taking the water to the gallery where I
purchase all my fish and they put samples from all of my tanks under a telescope
<Microscope?>
and they didn't see any deadly or harmful parasites in the water.
<Mm, the parasites will be on the fish, not in the water.... If one of these
fish dies, bring the body in and see if they'll have a look.>
The only thing that was in all the water samples was plant eating nematodes.
<Probably not a problem in the least.>
I have never ever had this problem, I breed rainbow fish "some only mate once a
year, very rare" and almost all of my discus have had fry. In the past my
guppies have had babies just fine without any problems. This same exact guppy
has had fry 3 times and ALL of them lived, except this last batch, they have
been clamped all up. Any help will help me!
<Just as above.... I would seriously consider medicating ASAP.>
If there is more information that you need to know to determine what the problem
is, please let me know. Thank you in advance! -Jasmine.
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
|
|
|
Endler's Game - II - 10/29/2005
<Hey hon, looks like someone may have already replied to ask you this,
but could you please re-send this not in all caps? We really don't have the
time or manpower to re-type these.... Thanks! -Sabrina>
All re-typed now.
<Ahh, delightful. Thank you kindly.>
I just wanted to say, Thank You! I looked up the "velvet"/Oodinium and I
took a look at a bunch of pictures and it seems to be just that! The only
thing that I cannot find is some pictures of fry with the velvet parasite
infecting them. I was wondering if you have any pictures with fry infected
with this parasite?
<I do not, nor do I know of a site that does. As I recall, fry with this
would tend to keep their fins very tightly clamped, look kind of universally
grayish, and would not live long after exhibiting symptoms.>
Now I search around the Internet and I can't find anything with
"understanding" details about velvet, people just say "Oh you don't want
this in your tank" and "They are goners once they have it." How does this
parasite work? Is it that its free swimming at first then attaches itself to
the fish, then that fish becomes a host for the velvet parasite and then the
velvet parasite goes from one fish to another?
<It can pass fish-to-fish, and I believe does have a "free swimming" (or
maybe more accurately "floating" stage. In any case, it is easily
communicable - though I have had occasions where only one or two guppies
would contract it and it wouldn't spread.>
Today my other Endler's just passed and she was pregnant - "I'm sad now."
<So very sorry to hear this.>
Also, once the fish dies do the parasites leave the host to look for
another one?
<Umm, I'm not so sure its life cycle is long enough for 'em to care that
much. I think they just continue with their life cycle.>
And about my baby fry, I want to treat them all. Do you think I should
flush the ones that I can tell that something is seriously wrong with, or
should I try treating them all at once and see what the outcome is?
<Flush them? Certainly not. If you do choose to euthanize them, do a quick
search on our site using our Google search tool on the home page, and look
for "clove oil". I would consider treating all the fish.>
The Clout medications that you told me about, would you happen to know
where I could but it?
<Might try a search on
http://www.froogle.com .>
I took a look at PetCo and Petsmart.com and didn't see it there. And would
you recommend treating the fry with it, like with smaller dosages?
<Umm. Risky at best. I would try first to find a food with Metronidazole
in it.... Jungle now makes such a product which can be found at PetSmart.>
Also, my other female Endler's are pregnant, would you recommend me
treating them with that medication or with any other medication?
<I would be concerned that this might affect their young - but I would be
more concerned for the adults' lives right now.>
I just don't want the little ones to die too.
<I understand.>
I looked on the Internet and found a medications for fish called
CopperSafe, do you think that will work?
<Likely, but I would be very hesitant to use this on the fry. Be very
cautious with it if you do use it, and do most certainly NOT overdose with
it.>
I just want to say, what you are doing to help others is just wonderful! I
really appreciate all of your help and valuable time!
<You are so kind.... thank you for these words!>
I know how it is answering 1,000's of emails a day!
<Oh, not thousands, fortunately! Though we have over 10,000 visitors to
the site every day, only a few dozens write in. I can only hope that the
others are finding their answers - I'm sure we don't have the ability to
answer thousands a day!>
Just wanted to say Thank you, thank you, and thank you again!
<And thank you, deeply, for your kind words.>
Have a wonderful weekend and thank you Sabrina!
~JASMINE.
You as well, Jasmine! All the best, -Sabrina> |
Velvet and Sensitive fish
Dear Crew,
<Erica>
Thanks for a fabulous site. It's great to get polite, professional and accurate
help. Currently our tank has a persistent case of Velvet. Our tank
inhabitants include: 1 Striped Peacock Eel, 1 South American Dragon Fish
(Violet Gobi), 1 Bala Shark, 2 Algae Eaters, 2 Red Glass Barbs, 2 Glass Catfish,
3 Pineapple Swordtails, 5 Neon Tetra's and 6 Black Neon Tetra's.
The tank is salted.
<I hope/trust not very salted... as the Tetra's really don't like this>
On the web and even in your own site postings I have found conflicting info. I
read that all of these are unsafe for our sensitive fish: formalin, Acriflavine,
copper, all dyes like: malachite green, Victoria green, and Methylene blue.
However all treatment options recommend one of these.
<Both correct, and yes, conflicting>
Half doses of formalin have been tried, bio filter was ruined, between constant
water changes and the harsh medication the fish became stressed and ended up
with several other problems. All have been corrected and we are down to only
velvet again. Less traumatic treatment would be greatly appreciated.
Appreciate All Your Help
Erica
<I would go the Acriflavine route here... possibly with turning the lights out,
covering the aquarium with dark paper as well. Here's Novalek's go at describing
this use:
http://www.petsforum.com/novalek/kpd29.htm
Likely you don't need to worry re the below 7.0 pH issue, but I would monitor
this and ammonia. Bob Fenner>
SICK TANK
Hi! I have a 29 gal. freshwater tank with 4 platys, 5 Neons, 1 skirted tetra
and a Pleco. I have been treating for ich & velvet for 1 month now. (Ich is
gone) I am still seeing "gold dust" on my Pleco. I have been using CopperSafe
and covering up the tank. I was also using Maracyn 2 for fin rot and any
secondary infections that might crop up. Now last night the ammonia levels
jumped up to 4.0! Did water change and added AmmoLock. I now have cloudy water
with a film on top. I did a 40% water change and now I am not sure what to do. I
did not add any more CopperSafe because I bet that is what has killed my bio.
filter. How do I treat the remaining velvet, get my bio filter back and at the
same time try to save my fish?
< Remove the Pleco to a small bare hospital tank and treat him there. Do a 30%
water change and vacuum the gravel. Service the filter and add carbon to remove
some of the medication. Check the ammonia and nitrites. Both should be zero. The
nitrates should be under 25 ppm. Add Bio-Spira from Marineland. Feed sparingly
until things settle down.>
My QT is in the 3rd week of cycling and the ammonia levels are way high! I have
Rid Ich Plus and Ick Guard Two. Can I use the Rid Ich Plus while doing water
changes to get the copper out?
<No, won't do any good.>
Or is that hard on my fish? Whew! I am new at this and this has been stressing
me out! Please respond. I have looked through hours of info on the website and
never found exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much for any help!!!
Holley
< Velvet is actually pretty rare on most tropical fish except some killies.
While treating the ich the medication has severely affected the good bacteria
needed to break down the fish waste. The Bio-Spira will help, it just needs some
time.-Chuck>
Question about Betta behavior and velvet
Hi,
I just bought my Betta about two weeks ago. He is very colorful and active.
Lately, however, I've spotted several small areas on him that look a little
discolored. There wouldn't be a whole spot, just like two scales. I did shine a
flashlight on him and thought that perhaps he had velvet, so I treated him with
Maracyn-Two (given to me by the pet store).
<Mmm, Minocycline? Antibiotics are useful here only for secondary effects
http://groups.msn.com/TheBettaObsession/bettaillnessandtreatment.msnw
>
I followed the instructions as well as given him a salt bath. The spots
disappeared, but he sometimes starts swimming up and down in the corner of the
tank and kind of jerks about and I don't see him scratching against the
decorations. I change the water very often, so I don't think it's the water or
poisoning. He doesn't stay on the bottom neither nor is there a lack of appetite
and he acts pretty normal. Sometimes he does open his mouth wide, but that is
rare. Is this behavior normal? or is he sick? Thanks for the help! LST
<Hard to say... is the fish's tank/container heated? Lethargy is pretty much a
normal state with Bettas... more so at lower temperatures. Bob Fenner>
Velvet disease
Hi there. I had a Blood Red Parrot Cichlid for about 6 years. Recently I
introduced two algae eaters into the tank (55 gallon), but I didn't quarantine
them like I should have. About two weeks later, my Blood Red Parrot fish was
showing signs of velvet disease (white spots, lethargy, rubbing on rocks,
etc.) I did some research to find out what to do, and I treated the tank with
copper sulfate, aquarium salt, and raising the temp. to 82
degrees. Unfortunately, he still died about 3 days after beginning to notice
symptoms and treating him. I still have the two algae eaters in the
tank alone, and I have thoroughly cleaned the tank, replaced filter cartridges,
etc. The algae eaters are not showing any signs of the disease, and I'm
beginning to think that maybe they weren't the cause of my fish's death after
all. My question is, could they still be carrying the disease but just not
showing signs of it?
< Absolutely. You probably have ich or some other protozoa disease. The
medication may have killed the parasite or it may not have. The algae eaters
could still be hosting the parasite without showing any symptoms.>
I have other fish that I would like to add to the tank, but I don't want to
put them in danger of becoming sick.
< Remove all the fish in the tank for one week. The parasites in the tank will
starve to death. The tank will be free of parasites but the fish may still be
carrying it. You should look into a quarantine tank to prevent further costly
outbreaks.-Chuck>
Thank you for your help. Laura Hash
Freshwater Oodinium/Velvet, Flukes
Dear Crew,
Finally got a diagnosis of Oodinium and flukes in my tank (three goldfish). On
recommendation by vet, have been treating both main tank and QT with
copper/malachite green combination. The sick fish in QT died first day of
treatment. As I was worried about toxicity and also about the precipitation of
copper compounds, I halved the dose of medication but increased the frequency of
doses to double the recommended frequency.
Praziquantel was used for the flukes - two treatments, one week apart. Vet
claimed that these two treatments would not interact badly.
My question is about my other equipment - QT, buckets, etc. I've looked through
the FAQs but I can't seem to figure out how to best clean it. I see that for
marine velvet, a 4-6 week fallow period is recommended to eradicate the tank.
However, it's not clear whether freshwater Oodinium is photosynthetic or not -
if it is, surely no fallow period will work?
< It is.>
The QT was also treated for flukes, but has been broken down - all parts are now
dry. I'm worried about eggs and cysts surviving to attack new fish in my
QT (obviously there's no point in quarantining them in an infected tank). Can
they survive on dry surfaces? Do I need to use any other cleaning substances?
(I'm reluctant to use bleach but will if I have to.) Thanks for all your help
over the last couple of months.
< I don't like to use bleach either so I use a heavy brine solution. It does not
sterilize everything but it gets rid of most everything. I get a 5 gallon bucket
and fill it with hot water and get as much rock salt as I can to dissolve in it.
I then soak the equipment and whatever, take it out and rinse it and let it dry.
I wipe down tanks pretty good with the solution and then do the same
thing.-Chuck>
Melissa
Treating velvet
Hi,
<Hello, Sabrina with you today>
We are complete novices at this, we have a 55 gal aquarium, what is the best
treatment for ick and velvet, a third of the fish are infected with what appears
to be velvet. We are currently treating with Mardel's Coppersafe, but does not
seem to be doing any good, we do not have a sick tank. So far the Bala Sharks
have it and a neon tetra. Hoping you can help us. Larry and Maggie Fleming
<Well, first off, a proper treatment is going to depend on what fish are in the
tank you're treating. Copper should be effective against velvet, but neon
tetras are really quite sensitive, and probably shouldn't be treated with
copper, so I'd stop with that immediately. A better route for you is probably
to treat with quinine (I believe Aquatronics offers this as "Quinsulfex"), add
aquarium salt at 1-2 tablespoons per ten gallons, and (unless the outbreak is
very severe) raising the temperature to 82 degrees F or so, provided you have no
fish that will be intolerant of that. It'd also be a good idea to keep the tank
lights off until you've completed treatment as the protozoa are
photosynthetic. I will caution you, however, to watch very closely to be sure
that none of your fish are overly sensitive to the quinine; I'm not sure how the
Neons will fare with it, and I also don't know what other fish are in your
system; you only mentioned Bala sharks and neon tetras. Be sure to read all
details on the box to see if there are any warnings against use with any of the
fish that you keep. Wishing you and your fish well, -Sabrina>
Velvet??
Hello to all,
<Hello there>
Sorry to be such a bother. I did the number 1 no no when adding new fish I
didn't qt them. I have a 10g tank that originally had 3 Neons. I added 3 more
Neons 1 mystery snail and an African dwarf frog. Also added 2 live plants. Over
the past couple of weeks I have lost the new Neons and now one of my original
has died the only thing I have noticed is rapid breathing. Still eating and
otherwise acting normal. Also the snail has died. I checked my water ammonia-0
nit-0 ph 7.6 (I know this is high for the Neons but it has been in this range
since I've had them) temp 78. I just wonder if you have any idea what this might
be.
<Because Neons are so small they will often die from a disease before any
symptoms become visible. You might take a look at
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwfshparasites.htm but it’s
probably going to be pretty tough to pinpoint the exact cause.>
And if I have to start over with my tank what is the best way to go about this
because I have read that the frog needs and established tank. And also if I do
should I treat the tank with anything or just wash it really good with
bleach. I'm getting another tank to make a hospital tank because I feel really
bad about what I did. Thank You so much for your help. Amy
<I would leave the tank with just the frog in it for at least a month before
adding anything new. If you do tear the tank down, you can wash it with bleach
and make sure to rinse it very well. Ronni>
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