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FAQs About Goldfish Systems 9
Related Articles:
Goldfish
Systems,
Goldfish 101: Goldfish May Be Popular, And They May Be Cheap, But That
Doesn't Make Them Easy Aquarium Fish by Neale Monks, Goldfish Disease, Goldfish, Goldfish
Varieties, Goldfish Mal-Nutrition,
Related FAQs: Goldfish
Systems 1,
Goldfish
Systems 2,
Goldfish Systems 3,
Goldfish Systems 4,
Goldfish Systems 5,
Goldfish Systems 6,
Goldfish Systems 7,
Goldfish Systems 8, &
Ammonia, Nitrite,
Nitrate,
Nitrogen Cycling, Goldfish 1,
Goldfish Behavior,
Goldfish
Compatibility, Goldfish Feeding, Goldfish
Disease, Goldfish Breeding/Reproduction,
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Goldfish need a 30 gallon tank, minimum.
Failure to do this ends up with sick fish -- you will find it very difficult
to provide the good water quality these fish need in such a tiny space.
|
New Tank Set Up, Goldfish 5/1/08
I've had tanks in the past and miss them.
<Come on back to the fold...>
I am getting ready to start a
new tank and at our local aquarium store, I found a 37gal tank but it is square
and tall. It looks really cool and I wanted to see if that would be an issue in
the long run with fish. I know that goldfish need longer, wider tanks to swim
in, but if I were to keep smaller freshwater fish, would this be a problem?
<Not likely if kept circulated, filtered... carefully fed and maintained>
I am not keeping cichlids or fish that will grow large in size either.
Aquarium stores want to sell you something.
<Is their job>
I tested the guy by asking if this tank was good for goldfish, knowing it wasn't
and he said "sure"! I appreciate your help and your honesty in answering this
question for me.
<Mmm, as stated, these fishes do prefer more "squat" profiles than "show" for
swimming, gas solubility reasons... Bob Fenner>
Please help my goldfish! Sys.
4/28/08
I have a ten gallon tank with two small goldfish.
<Need more room than this...>
I have been waiting for thirty nine days for my biological filter to mature.
<... not with the fish present...>
I even took my goldfish out at one point because the ammonia was too high and I
tried fishless cycling (I didn't know how bad it was going to get when I first
bought the fish and of course, Pet Smart didn't tell me about the ammonia
spikes). I have since done A LOT of research because I do not trust what I am
told at Pet Smart.
<You're getting smarter... Pet Smarter?>
I know all about the Nitrogen cycle and water quality.
<Yay!>
I got my ammonia under control (that is, at O!!!!!) through fishless cycling and
my nitrates were up and my Nitrates were on the rise. My fish were back in the
tank and it was time for a filter change. I wa concerned that the change would
disrupt my nitrogen cycle because the filter was designed to replace all the
filter media at once (replaceable cartridge). I called the "Top Fin help line"
with my concerns and was assured that it would be "fine" to replace the
cartridge
with one of their new ones and to just throw the old media in the garbage.
<... dismal... no>
Within hours, my system "crashed". The ammonia levels went to 1.0 and I haven't
been able to get it down with regular water changes.
<... the changes... kill bacteria...>
I will do a 60 to 70 percent chance next. I just don't want to shock the fish. I
will stay up all night if I have to. Please help me. I have done A LOT of
research and I know now that each goldfish needs 20 to 30 gallons.
<So...?>
I plan to ask for a new tank for my birthday in July.
<Oh!>
However I need help to get my fish through until then. I am going out in the
morning to by a new filter with a bio-wheel and I have ordered BioSpira form
another website. When I first bought my fish at Pet Smart they told me I could
put 3-4 goldfish in my ten gallon tank..... and then add a Pleco!!!!!!!!!!! How
can we stop this?
<You're helping... here>
Please help me,
Laurie Dupuis
<Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and the linked files above. Feed VERY sparingly, pre-store new water... Bob
Fenner>
Problems with ammonia, Goldfish in too
small a world, reading 4/28/08
I have two fancy goldfish who are currently living in a 10 gallon aquarium.
<Stop! This is the real problem... Need more room than this...>
I am now aware that ten gallons is not sufficient and I am looking into
upgrading to 30 gallons, hopefully in the near future. In the meantime, I am
trying to cycle my tank
<!? Fish should not be present during>
and I am very concerned about the ammonia levels.
Unfortunately, I did not know about cycling ahead of time.
<Take the fish back>
The pet store did a quick water test of my two day old aquarium water and said I
was "good to go." I knew that a biological filter would have to develop, but I
thought it was OK to do that with the fish in there.
<No>
I didn't know how hard it would be on them and that I would have such trouble
addressing the issues with ammonia. Regardless, I now have two adorable fish
looking to me to provide a safe environment for them. I added the two small
goldfish (one Oranda, one Ryukin) 17 days ago and I have been trying to keep the
ammonia levels down by doing daily partial water changes of 25 to 40%.
<Mmm... the changing of water will forestall the establishment of cycling>
This does not seem to be providing adequate relief from the ammonia, however,
and the tank does not seem to be cycling yet (Nitrates and Nitrites are both at
zero and the ammonia does not decrease significantly). I am extremely concerned
for my fish. I just can't get the ammonia down to an acceptable level.
Today, I placed them temporarily in a fishbowl with water that is similar to
what they have in the tank (regarding temperature, pH, etc.) just to give them
some relief from the ammonia while the aquarium cycles.
<Won't work either>
I plan to change the water daily (at least partially) and closely monitor
ammonia. At least I can change the water in the fish bowl and let their aquarium
cycle without them. I just could never get the ammonia down to zero in the
aquarium. Is this OK? How long can they stay in the fish bowl? I just want them
to be somewhere safe while their home undergoes all the ammonia and Nitrite,
etc. spikes. I want them to go back in as soon as the aquarium water is safe for
them. Please help. I love these little guys
<Then return them temporarily... use a real cycling product or other means...
see below>
and I know a fish bowl is not where they should be but I don't know what else to
do.
Thank you so much.
Sincerely,
Laurie
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Beginner Chiller Questions, FW, and GF
sys. 4/28/08
Hello Crew, How are you today?
<I'm fine, thanks>
I think I've come to the conclusion that I may need a chiller.
<Okay>
I currently own a 75 gallon FW tank. It houses two comet goldfish and a Pleco. I
know the comets can accept a wide range of temps, but much higher than 80 will
probably be bad for all involved.
<Mmm, not if permanently too high, or too vacillating... Let's see>
I like to keep the temperature around 73 degrees Fahrenheit/23 degrees Celsius.
This is because this is on the upper scale for the comets and the lower end for
the Pleco.
All seem happy with this temp.
<Yes>
Since I just recently upgraded to the 75 gallon (last October), I wanted to make
sure I purchased the max I could afford. I bought the glass lids instead of the
plastic hood, and I bought a triple-tube fluorescent light since I wanted to
make some algae for my Pleco (and he does a good job of keeping things clean). I
also purchased a Rena XP 4 filter. I'm looking into getting a new one, but if I
do need a chiller, I'll have to wait on that.
The lights are 32W per tube, so that's roughly 96W of heat assuming no losses (I
know, very simple assumption). I have a hang-in refugium that has a small 7W
powerhead for the Anacharis I purchased to try to help with Nitrates.
<Good>
They are doing well and this was only purchased to stop the fish from eating the
plants to death. It hangs just below the water line so the plants receive a
great deal of light. Also, the filter runs at 31W, so assuming 100% heat dump
from both (another simple assumption) I now have about 140W of heat dump into
the system.
<Mmm, as you say, minus losses>
Here's the problem. When I run the lights during the day and the apartment heats
up (we're talking up to 75-76 degrees F, if you call that heating up), the
aquarium can easily reach upwards of 78-79 degrees F. I tried to remedy the
situation over the past few days by raising up the lights on about a 1" shim,
putting a 12" fan running against the side and front of the aquarium, removing a
tube from the fixture to reduce heat, and then finally by raising both glass
access flaps to help aid in evaporation cooling (see, I am reading the FAQs!!!
;) ).
<Heeeee! You're ready to start writing them!>
Nothing seemed to work. Even with ambient air temperatures around 72 degrees and
all the "fixes" in place, the temp in the tank still rises to around 76-77
degrees F.
<No big deal>
So I went on to my next idea which I haven't finished yet. I plan on putting
three 120mm fans connected up to a converter that I purchased at Radio Shack,
and then implementing those into the left side of my aquarium to blow down on
the water, and on the other side put just a screen mesh so that air can get out,
but fish can't.
<Good>
But, here's the catch. I'm a meteorologist, so I know a little bit about
thermodynamics and air temperatures. I live in Philadelphia. The summers here
are pretty humid most times. Strike one on evaporation cooling.
Second, I know that even with the fans going and the humidity low, the water can
only be cooled down to ambient air temperature. The air exiting the tank
theoretically could get lower (wet bulb temp), but even then, the humidity
inside the apartment will quickly rise leaving an equilibrium of eventually air
temperature when ambient reaches wet bulb, or 100% humid. Strike two against air
cooling. Finally, when I leave my apartment, I turn the A/C up to 82F to save
energy and money. I don't like $250 electric bills, and that's what it costs
around here if I keep the A/C at a friendly 75F during the morning and night
when I'm here. I could only imagine the price if it was that temp 24/7. I also
plan to go on vacation during the summer for around 10 days, and this combined
with the thermostat at 82F will definitely not keep the tank cool, regardless if
I turn off the lights or not. Strike three, no?
<Again... I think you'll be fine...>
So I started to take another look at the chillers. Man, are they pricey. On top
of that, there is no unique guide to sizing the things. Some sites say 1/10 HP
goes up to 130 gallons, where some say only 50 gallons.
<There are differences in efficiency... and insulation...>
I have looked at the JBJ Arctica and the Current USA Prime coolers. I was
looking at the 1/10 HP models since that's what the JBJ site sized out for me.
but I wanted to ask you guys to make sure this sounds ok. I could go up to the
1/5 HP from JBJ (I want quiet, and you guys said in one of the chiller FAQs that
was high on the list) if you think that's what I need, but I'd hate to buy a V12
when a V6 can do the job more efficiently and still have room to grow if needed.
I also don't want to short-cycle the compressor or cause rapid spikes in
temperatures for the fish.
<Mmm, yes... these devices consume electricity as well...>
I wanted to do inline instead of drop-in since I read here that drop-ins are
very inefficient.
<Agreed. They're inappropriate tech. for most all applications>
I wanted to connect the chiller up right after my XP4 since then I wouldn't have
to purchase a new pump or anything. The XP4 says it has a 450GPH flow, and I bet
that's probably without any media inside. My only reservation with that was that
I didn't see any kind of flow curve or documentation on how restrictive the
chillers are. I've water-cooled computers before so reading those charts does
give an idea of flow rates and pump needs. The last thing I want to do is kill
my filter pump.
<Yes... and this may well do it. The small head magnetic drive pumps for these
filters are not meant to encounter any/much induced drag>
The JBJ says that it can handle up to 960 GPH through it - great considering I
may end up getting a second filter anyway in the long run and pairing both
filters into a Y tube that goes into the chiller, then splitting back out of a Y
tube to two outputs. That would give roughly a max 900 GPH flow through the
chiller.
<A bit less in actual practice... like half>
Anyway, sorry to make a short story long. But I hope you have some insight for
me. I'm really confused on what to do since not a whole lot of people seem to be
in my position. Most have metal halide lighting, sumps, etc. I don't. My setup
is pretty simple, and I keep it that way since I know the more complicated I
make it, the more I'm going to mess something up and potentially kill my fish
(i.e. the reason I don't have a sump is because I don't know how to keep it from
siphoning my tank out, and what happens in a power failure?!?). Maybe one day I
will start to use a sump since I do have a spare 20 gallon that I moved up from.
I'd like a de-nitrate tank and I know I could get one with either a planted sump
or a deep sand bed. just gotta figure out the whole water-draining scenarios
first.
<Neat! Sounds like a worthy project>
It scares me to get a call from apartment management telling me my 75 gallons
all drained into the apartment below and that my fish are now gone. I know they
were only 70 cent feeder fish. but I still can't fathom such an inhumane death.
Weird, I know.
Anyway, let me know if you can help, and if you can I greatly appreciate it.
And so does my wallet.
John Lindsay
<John, I would maybe shift your lighting schedule, with one or more on-off
cycles per day... have the lights come on (and maybe go off) till later in the
day, eve, when it's cooler... Is what I do for my fancy goldfish here in S. Cal.
(where it was 90 F. ayer)... Not a problem, really... In the volume you have,
the species you care for, all this will work out... Keep doing those 20-25%
water changes every week and no worries. Bob Fenner>
Re: Beginner Chiller Questions
4/29/08
Bob,
<John>
Thank you for the reply.
<Welcome>
I tend to agree with you about the fact that as long as it isn't a continuous
situation, I'd be ok.
However, my idea with the fans didn't work as well as I thought. They don't fit,
and I don't have the tools necessary (I am just out of college in my first job
with an apartment - no time to have purchased the right equipment, plus the
right equipment to do so, like just a rip saw or table saw, is about at much as
a chiller) to implement the right design.
<Understood>
So, if my air temperature still stays at 82F for the week and a half I'm gone,
with the fact that no cool-down will occur at night since I won't be home to
monitor the temps, and the same for during the day when I keep the A/C on at
82F... are you recommending the chiller or not? I don't know if I got a true
answer, but perhaps you were leaving it up for me to decide since it is my
purchase!!! :)
<Am advising against such purchase, use. I don't use one...>
I know that 77 isn't a worry for temps... but the fact that when the apartment
is at 72 the temp is at 77, and when I have the apartment at 75 I know the tank
will heat up to around 79, I can only imagine when the air in the apartment is
at 82... the tank will rise to around 85+ which I know is too hot for any
fish...
<Not really... if one thinks/considers that the back-up, redundancy
processes/mechanisms on a space shuttle or submarine are impressive, they should
take a look at the capability of shifting biochemical pathways in biotic
systems... MUCH more impressive>
I'm just trying to make sure I don't come home to dinner one day.
<Not to worry, I assure you>
Thank you so much for your help. I know it has been time consuming with my last
e-mail!
John Lindsay
<A pleasure to share. BobF>
|
Goldfish problems, hlth., env. –
04/21/08
Hello
I am writing about a 5 year old fantail goldfish. I think she is female. She
exhibits very strange behavior and might be sick. She is a valued member of our
household.
She is about 3.5 inches
<Stunted for this age>
in body length (not including the tail). She is in a 29 gallon tank by herself
and all water qualities are good. Ammonia is 0, ph 7.5, nitrite is 0 and
nitrates are 0. She was fed Omega-One goldfish flakes and occasional peas.
<Needs more greenery>
The tank was set up about 2 months ago.
<Where was this fish before?>
There was some ammonia (.25) but no nitrite buildup a while ago but that is
resolved. I used old water plus live sponges for the filter.
<Ah, good>
The tank is filtered with an Aqua-Clear 30 and has an air stone with a good
amount of air. There are some live plants?bolbitis fern and crypto. There is no
sand. I put in Kent RO Right and baking soda to harden the water because our
water is soft.
<Good>
For a couple of months this winter, she was in a 10 gallon tank
<Too small... as you likely are aware>
when her 20 gallon tank broke. I did not do a lot of water changes and the
nitrate level went through the roof for a while. Ammonia and nitrites were OK.
There have been times that she snaps at the water surface? she loves to eat.
This is followed by some temporary bloating problems that seem to pass after
eating peas.
<I would switch to (what I use for my fancy goldfish exclusively) the Spectrum
line of foods>
I am careful to not overfeed her? giving her only 3 or 4 small, skinned cooked
peas? or a similar amount of blanched greens or Nori. After feeding her brine
shrimp, she was lethargic with her dorsal fin clamped so I have stopped that
food. I have recently switched her to an all vegetarian diet and eliminated the
flakes.
<Oh! Good>
Rarely I find feces floating that are long and stringy? sometimes white and
sometimes green. Most of the time I do not find feces in the tank. She eats well
and her color is good.
Her symptoms are that she will sit on the bottom sleeping, dorsal fin clamped
and barely breathing. This has been an intermittent problem for a few years.
Recently it has become a lot more prevalent and I am likely to see her like this
when I enter the room. For a few months now she has added a new behavior: she
will get into a corner of the tank, vertically looking straight up at the water
surface and stay that way for hours. She seems dazed and hardly breathes. One
tap on the glass however and she is active, fins expanded, swimming normally
looking for food. Her dorsal fin is up when she swims around.
I noticed this morning that her left side rear is swollen and the scales are
beginning to stick out on this swollen area. I've read many articles on line and
am confused as to what to do.
Could it be a Costia problem?
<Mmm, doubtful... where would this protozoan come from?>
In Dr. Eric Johnson's book, ?Fancy Goldfish,? he says put in salt to .3% for
Costia. I read another article that said feed Romet B, raise the temperature to
86 degrees F and add Epsom salts one quarter teaspoon to 5 gallons ?and no salt.
Another article by Sabrina Fullhart says Epsom salts 1 to 2 Tablespoons to 10
gallons and feed strictly soft vegetable food.
<Sabrina and I are in agreement, as usual>
I'm confused as to how to approach this. I do keep fresh water angelfish and use
the same bucket for all the tanks.
Is it possible that Costia from the angels is affecting the goldfish?
<Yes... but rare that this would be present on either... you have a microscope?>
What could the swelling on her left side be?
<Resultant from a bump, the exposure to poor conditions some time back>
I do have Medigold pellets from Goldfish Connection. Should I feed her this? I
am concerned that she won't be able to digest the hard pellets.
I would appreciate any help that you could give me.
Thanks.
Rick Burt
<I would stay the course that you're on and not switch foods, nor medicate the
water. Bob Fenner>
Goldfish, sys. 4/19/08
Hey,
I have 2 feeder goldfish that I have had through college (in an undersized tank)
and I am moving them to a 10g to start off with. I am planning on setting up my
tank and letting it do it's thing over the weekend. Because feeders seem pretty
tough, is the weekend long enough for a 10g to cycle before I add them? Do I
need to add something like a plant from their old tank to the new one while it's
cycling? I have read a mix of information on it. I have also read that fan
shrimp are okay to mix with goldfish. I wanted to add other fish like tiger barb
to the tank with them but from my week of becoming a fish expert I have decided
to leave them alone and give them more space versus friends. I would like a few
shrimp though if they are okay with them.
Thanks, Tash
<Hi Tash. Our standard advice is always to cycle the tank before adding the
fish. Cycling a tank takes at least 4 weeks, likely 6. But you can add various
products to "instantly" get the filter going, such as BioSpira. You also have
the option of taking filter media from a mature tank and sticking it in the
filter in the new tank. This works 100% reliably assuming the water chemistry in
both tanks is roughly the same. Moving "stuff" like rocks, gravel, plants, etc.
will have next to no useful affect so don't bother. All the bacteria are in the
filter, whatever that may be: sponge, ceramic noodles, or even gravel from an
undergravel filter. For what its worth, Goldfish are best kept alone, or perhaps
with a Weather Loach; Goldfish can combine with subtropical fish up to a point,
but they are not really ideally tankmates for tropical species. Moreover, in a
10 gallon system, the Goldfish aren't really going to work out in the long term,
so I wouldn't make things worse by buying a bunch of other livestock that will
be stressed by poor water quality and only add to your need for bigger tanks and
stronger filters. Cheers, Neale.>
|
Filtration for 190 liters, FW, goldfish 4/19/08
Hi WWM,
I'm new to this game so please bear with me!
I am ripping my hair out about Eheim filter/s for my 190L fancy goldfish tank
which we would like to put into our bedroom situated around 50-cm from my ears;
when it comes!!! We are thinking of giving it a try for a month first in the
bedroom (before putting the fish in)!
<Good idea; do add fish food every day or two though: this will "feed" the
bacteria, and so cycle the filter for you perfectly.>
I am a light sleeper and need a deadly quiet filter/s plus worried about the
smell!
<A properly maintained aquarium has no smell. Smells come from decaying things.
So if you smell something = fish tank is dirty! I have had fish tanks in my
bedroom. Not a problem. Use a good external filter. Adjust the outflow so the
water "ripples" but does not splash. Completely silent!>
The guy at the fish-shop suggests the pro 2 2028, but I'm not sure if it is a
good idea to put all my eggs in one basket! I think it's better to have two on
the go. I have a classic 2211 ultra silent on my 60L but is a bit of a pain for
cleaning reasons & getting the top off.
So these are my suggestions:
1: 1x 2026 pro 2 plus 1x 2224 pro 1
2: 1x 2028 pro 2 plus 1x 2211 classic
3: 1x 2217 classic plus 1X 2211 classic
It's for my 2 fancy goldfish in 60L tank, one with swimming problems & stunted
growth and there two babies six months old in 20L tank.
<Any of these should work.>
Turn over 5 times an hour minimum, I think! My fish are messy, maybe due to
overfeeding.
<So: cut back on food! Goldfish need little food. Turnover of 5 times is good
for Goldfish. I'd even say 6 is best! Big filter = less the filter needs
cleaning, and the cleaner the water. Spend a little more money, but save a lot
more time! A good filter lasts many, many years.>
I would like to alternate cleaning. With the 2211 I'm worried I will be cleaning
it every 2 min.s including pipes! eek
<I clean my canister filters once every 2 months! Some of my friends every 6
months! Take care to remove dirt from the aquarium when you see it, with weekly
water changes of 50%.>
Another problem one of my fancies has a swimming problem so the flow has to be
reasonable.
<Also put plastic plants in one or two corners. In nice clumps. These will break
the water flow, and create a gentle area for the fish to rest. Rocks and wood
can be used in the same way.>
So if you have any suggestions for the filter plus your thoughts on fish-tanks
in the bedroom i.e smell & noise! I will be so so happy.
P.S This is becoming an obsession 24/24
<Yes, it can be so!>
Thanks a lot
Jeanette
<Bon chance, Neale.>
Re: filtration for 190 liters
4/20/08
Hi Neale,
Thanks for the speedy reply!
I really appreciate your help - I don't know where us "rookies" would be without
internet sites like yours.
<You are most welcome!>
Anyhow I've opted for the full on 2028 even though it intimidates me a bit & run
this along with the 2211 until I can afford to upgrade the 2211 to a 2215.
<The Eheim 2028 offers 1050 litres per hour; for a 190 litre aquarium it should
be plenty, even by itself.>
What do you think?
<A good choice.>
For the 2028, I've heard a few moans & groans that it's not as good as it's made
out to be.
<Eheim filters generally have a good reputation. I've used both Fluval and Eheim
filters over the years and had good experiences with both of them. In general,
if either type rattles or makes odd noises, even when set up properly, assume it
is "broken" and demand a replacement. Both manufacturers make filters that are
silent and easy to use. The Eheim 2211 and Eheim 2215 filters are "old school"
in design, but work extremely well. I see no real advantage to upgrading the
Eheim 2211 you already have (300 litres per hour) to the Eheim 2215 (600 l/h) if
you are buying the Eheim 2028 as well. You already have more than 6 times the
volume of the tank in turnover per hour (1050 from the Eheim 2028 + 300 from the
Eheim 2211). That should be ample for Goldfish.>
Just curious - do you have any experience with this pro 11 & what would be your
personal choice out of the batch I've suggested?
<No personal experience. To be honest, I tend to choose the filter that is best
value at the time I go shopping. I balance my needs against price, and then
choose.>
I don't want to make any other mistakes. I think I've gone through the lot!
<Agreed!>
Happy fish & a good nights sleep is what I'm aiming for.
Thanks again & have a great weekend
Jeanette
<Good luck, Neale.>
|
|
Freshwater Decor ? Goldfish
sys. 3/12/08
Hello...
Would a product made of alabastrite (not painted) be safe for a goldfish tank?
And would a concrete type statue be safe with enough water circulation and
oxygen?
Lisa
<No, none of these things is acceptable. Unless an ornament or material is
explicitly sold as aquarium safe, don't assume that they are. Concrete for
example contains lime, and that can raise the pH of the aquarium very quickly.
You can get coatings that prevent this, allowing its use in ponds for example,
but why bother? The variety of aquarium-safe rocks and ornaments is huge and
wide ranging in price as well, so there's really no reason not to use them.
Granite and slate can be bought from garden centres and used to create all
manner of "terrain" inside the tank, and there's also bogwood, ceramic
ornaments, terracotta, etc. Anything pond-safe should be aquarium safe. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: Freshwater Decor ? 3/12/08
Thanks again Neale......
I asked about ceramics before and see that you mentioned that they would be safe
as well but I'm getting so much different feedback from others. Some say
ceramics are not safe unless they are marked "dinnerware" safe.
<Ah, you misunderstand. When I say "ceramic ornaments" I mean the stuff sold in
pet stores for fish tanks. Ceramic mangrove roots, castles, and the like.>
Well, no statues or things of that nature would be marked dinnerware safe.
Someone suggested buying "bisque" ceramics and then painting it ......but where
would I find the right type of paint for inside the aquarium.
<Wouldn't bother. Running an aquarium is difficult enough sometimes without
adding unknown variables.>
And some have said that ceramic can be glazed but needs to be fired a certain
temp to make it "safe". I know I'm being anal here but I have yet to find one
single aquarium decoration that I really like.
<Hmm... I tend to go with what I know -- granite, slate and other stones sold as
pond safe. Cheap, easy to obtain, safe. I don't really care much for ceramic
castles and temples and shipwrecks, but I know some people like them. To be
honest, Goldfish couldn't care less about ornaments save plastic plants, which
they like for the shade. So why not go for a "jungle" style with thickets of
plastic plants surrounding an open area for swimming? Bamboo is another great
material, especially the super-thick stuff, for creating "oriental" scenes. The
downside to bamboo is it rots and needs replacing every couple of years. But it
is so cheap, who cares?>
I'd be willing to buy someone from another country even if it was what I was
looking for....don't mind shipping it in for the right product.
Lisa
<Some books on aquarium decor out there... 'The Inspired Aquarium', 'Aquarium
Design', 'Aquarium Displays Inspired by Nature ', 'The Complete Aquarium' and
others. Track down, consult. I happen to like 'The Complete Aquarium' a lot, and
on Amazon.com it goes for about a buck second hand. Do also visit a garden
centre and see what they have for decorating ponds and rockeries. Factor in the
use of submersible lights and airstones -- these make dramatic additions, and
will turn something humdrum into sheer magic if used right. Cheers, Neale.>
|
Help with goldfish – 03/10/08
I have two goldfish, I am not sure what kind they are. My two children had
gotten about six of them at a school carnival about three or four years ago,
some of them died right away and three we alive for awhile then one died, so now
we have two. They have been relatively healthy until recently. I keep them in a
ten gallon tank and change the water once or twice a month. I used to do total
break down of the tank, but stopped and just change some of the water.
<Ah, here's part of the problem. The tank is far too small. As the Goldfish
grow, they produce more waste, and eventually there gets a tipping point where
the tank was adequate but now becomes dangerous. Upgrade to at least a 30 gallon
system. Non negotiable. If you don't want to do that, then don't keep Goldfish.
Can't be any more clear than that. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/goldfish101art.htm
>
We have hard water where we live so I use both tap water with water conditioners
and spring water to fill the tank. They have done pretty well with this.
<Hard water is fine for Goldfish. Spring water is a waste of your money. Use
that money for a bigger tank already!>
This week I noticed one of the goldfish started to get some black stuff growing
on its fins. I had another goldfish with this before, I did not treat because I
was a broke college student, that fish eventually died after it started floating
on its side.
<Finrot. Look, deciding not to treat and animal because you are too poor is
animal cruelty. Period. Your local animal shelter could provide you with
assistance here if you really didn't have the $5 to buy Finrot/Fungus treatment.
But honestly, I can't be very sympathetic about this -- the cost of medication
is minimal, the suffering caused on the fish is huge, and the bad karma incurred
on the pet owner substantial! Unless you want to come back as a slug next time,
I suggest responding to signs of sickness in your pets quickly!>
This fish was in the tank with the two that I have now and these were fine. With
this fish I thought it was ick so I bought some ick remover. I followed the
instructions and the black stuff went away. This morning both of the fish seemed
to be breathing heavy and I changed some water and put in more water
conditioner.
<Hmm... water changes are always a good idea but when fish are breathing heavily
but otherwise look fine, the odds are either the water is polluted or too warm.
You can check both easily, using a nitrite test kit for the former and a
thermometer for the latter.>
I also heard about putting baking soda in the water to level the ph so I put in
a teaspoon for the ten gallons.
<Pointless. Again, stop, save the pennies, and buy a bigger fish tank.>
I removed the fish from the tank so that it could settle and now one of the fish
is floating on its side and still breathing heavy. I put some peas in the water
and it has not done
anything.
<Why would it? You're doing random things without thinking about what's truly
wrong. Have you *done* a nitrite test yet? If not, you're missing one of the key
steps to finding out what is wrong with an aquarium. In any case, the problem is
the tank is too small.>
My kids like these fish and I don't want it to die. What should I do?
<Buy a 30 gallon tank together with a decent filter. Problem solved. Nothing
NOTHING else is acceptable here. If you decide you don't have space or money for
a 30 gallon tank, that's fine -- but you can't keep Goldfish either. It's
essential your children learn that keeping animals is a responsibility not just
a pleasure. Switch on Animal Planet and watch those shows of people keeping 150
cats locked in a trailer home or feeding their dogs nothing but paper and
dirt... cruel, yes, but just the same as keeping Goldfish in a 10 gallon tank.
Hope this helps! Cheers, Neale.>
Goldfish, env. dis., no
reading – 03/07/08
Hi all,
I'm a bit new to fish ownership but have followed the basic rules etc... set up
the tank about a week before introducing any fish and then went about slowly
stocking my goldfish tank. I have 2 fantail gold fish, a loach and 4 tiny
minnows. All was going well until recently when I noticed Dave, my first fantail
becoming a bit lethargic.
I asked the assistants in the fish department if this was normal they told me it
was quite normal for them to rest like that so I thought there was nothing to
worry about. But he is starting to move less and less and his fin always seems
to be down (its like having a dog that isn't wagging his tail anymore)
<A good comparison>
I've also started to notice brown marks on the underside of him mainly near his
anal spot but also by his chin - I don't really know how to describe it- it
looks almost like bruising of some kind. He sometimes floats vertically, but at
the moment he is on the bottom of the tank looking very poorly.
I thought maybe he had that bladder thing as I have been Googling all night and
read about the disease so I haven't fed the usual pellet/flake tonight I have
given him peeled peas as suggested by several sources.
<Good>
I haven't seen him eat anything though - mind you the peas have vanished.
Dave and my other fishes live in a Biorb aquarium and I feed both pellet and
flake food and as a treat a little daphnia now and again.
<BiOrbs are notorious for being unstable, too small for goldfish of any type>
I do a partial water change every week to fortnight use AquaSafe and I never
leave the filter in for more that 6 weeks at a time. I really don't know what
else to do... the water is clean, I feed 6-8 small pellets and a small pinch of
flake, the tank has 3 live plants.
Dave is fab and I'm really worried he wont make it to the morning now, please
help
PS also I think my Loach my have mould, he has small patch of fine whispy white
attached to him which I noticed this evening while desperately willing Dave to
start swimming about again. How is this treated and how can I confirm if my
suspicions are correct?
<... environmental... Need larger quarters. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
|
Fancy Goldfish Info., sys.
3/3/08
Hello again crew (Bob and Salty Dog were helpful with my last SW
inquiries!),
I'm in the process of "shopping" around for my next venture into the wet pet
world. I have a 125 gal FOWLR down in our clubroom and am now ready to set up a
fancy goldfish tank in our new living room upstairs. I've read quite a lot over
the last 2 weeks and have decided on either the Oranda, Ryukin, or maybe
Pearlscale. I'm trying to think "long term" and was thinking of investing in
another 125 gal for the goldfish as it seems they would prefer the width and
more shallow depth of this sized tank?
<A tank this size would be ideal.>
If I go with a 125 gal for them....how many could I comfortably fit?
<At least a dozen adults. Thirty gallons for the first two adults, and then
about another 10 gallons for each additional fish is about right. Depends
somewhat on the variety, filtration method, etc.>
I was thinking 2 but would 3 be too much? I'd like to start with young fish and
watch them grow so I know the tank will look a bit bare for quite a while I'm
sure. The room is somewhat formal in decor (old world Italian) and even though
my husband would rather a tank with a large variety of FW....I really prefer the
look and personality of the fancy goldfish.........and the varieties are just
amazing!
<Big Goldfish in a spacious, not-overstocked aquarium can look amazing,
especially if care is taken to use a decent filter (to stop water going cloudy)
and nice decorations are used. In this setting, I'd suggest tall (3'/1 m)
plastic plants in quantity together with terracotta urns, so you get something
like a pond in Ancient Rome or Greece. Add some decent airstones and maybe some
submersible lights, and off you go!>
Ok, now to substrate....I was looking into a gravel called Shallow Creek Pebble
Gravel (25lb bags) from That Pet Place (I live about 40 min from there) and like
the "natural" look of it. Would this be appropriate for the larger goldfish?
<Fine.>
I haven't figured out what do go with filtration wise but would love to hear any
suggestions........
<Anything, provided not less than 6x the volume of the tank in turnover per
hour. Remember, mechanical filtration really is important with these messy,
herbivorous fish.>
I do know that I will be filtering the heck out of it though as I know they are
"dirty" fish. A neighbor has a 55gal with? way too many) "feeder" goldfish who
are now about 6+"!! She just bought a Fluval FX5 Canister Filter (925 gph) and I
love how silent it is....you don't even know it's running. She's only had it a
week but her water is crystal clear and she has A LOT of big fish in that tank.
I was thinking of buying this unit but would an additional means of filtration
be needed (like a hang on box/canister type)?
<Skip the hang on the back/internal filters; too little turnover to be
worthwhile. Go with what you suggest, the big external canister, perhaps
connected to a Reverse Flow undergravel filter so that detritus is pushed into
the water column and sucked into the filter.>
A friend of the family who is building our fireplace mantle is going to build a
custom unit for the tank so as soon as I know what size I'm getting....we'll
start the design. My problem is where to start!? lol? I was thinking of having
him encase the tank (so you can just view from the front) and have 2 cabinets on
either side....one for supplies and the other to house a large filter of some
type (maybe the Fluval) and have him drill holes for the piping and such to run
behind the tank.
<A sump system would work well here, but is perhaps overkill.>
Even though I know they don't "need" light, I will probably go with something
very basic for when we are in the room/entertaining etc.......and that would be
attached to the lid I suppose. Should I have fans installed on either side of
the "lid" so it doesn't get too warm.....or do you think that some low light
fluorescents won't be much of a problem? I was thinking of just a full sized
hinged top that can open all the way up for feeding/cleaning, etc. Any
suggestions?
<I'd actually use a decent amount of light so you get (pretty) green algae on
the ornaments and plastic plants rather than the ugly brown algae. Say, 2 Watts
per gallon. Use a heater to keep the tank around 22-24C, and then add a Garra
sp. algae eater of some type. I like Garra; they're pretty, not as big as Plecs,
and constantly active. You might have space for multiple specimens, though in
twos and threes they tend to be aggressive towards one another. Look at Garra
panda, Garra flavatra and Garra cambodgiensis for example.>
And although I do generally prefer a more natural setting for fish (like mt SW
tank), I don't want the hassle folive plants so we "may" go with a few
artificial ones if any. And I have looked into the faux stone columns and roman
looking tank decorations (I know..a bit tacky but they'd tie in with the room??
lol) and wondered if that would be ok for the larger fish> Nothing
overdone.....very simple and clean is the plan.
<All fine. But I suspect garden-sized terracotta will be more effective at this
size scale: at least here in England garden centres sell many different "urns"
and other pots that are safe in fish tanks and once covered with green algae
look really nice.>
I know this is terribly long and I'm asking more for "personal opinions" rather
than having major concerns but I don't have anyone else to turn to for help. And
of course...I want to do this properly....from setting up the "correct" type of
tank/substrate/filters, etc...letting it cycle for the proper term, and keeping
the fishies happy and healthy!
Thanks so much!
Lisa
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: Fancy Goldfish
Info 3/3/08
Thank you Neale for taking the time to respond to my inquiry!
<Not a problem.>
Wow......I was a bit surprised to read a dozen adults! I was thinking 2
full grown Oranda or Ryukin would be "comfortable" but maybe I will go
ahead and get 3 or 4. I just can't imagine 12 big goldfish, even in a
125 gal!? They'd eat my checkbook faster than my SW fish do!?? lol
<Indeed. But fancy goldfish aren't as big or as space demanding as, say,
Comets. And 125 gallons is a LOT of tank-space. Especially when you
factor in some decent filtration.>
I think I will look into some ancient looking pots and such and a few
artificial plants. I like the silk ones better than plastic but will
goldfish pick at the silk plants in an attempt to eat them?
<The silk plants should be fine; but modern plastic plants are pretty
good, especially when they have the algae on them *and* are used in
bulk. I admit, once plastic plant sitting there looks kinda crummy.>
I will more than likely go with a large canister type filter (maybe the
Fluval) but what is the reverse undergravel filter you spoke of?
<You set up a canister filter and an undergravel filter. But instead of
putting a powerhead or airstone on the undergravel, you connect it to
the OUTFLOW from the canister filter. So water is scrubbed in the
canister (removing solid waste) and then the silt-free water is pushed
into the gravel and up into the tank (biological filtration). The
benefit is that you don't get any crud in the undergravel filter (so no
"nitrate factory") and you don't have silt sitting on the bottom of the
tank either, because there is a gentle flow of water pushing it off into
the canister filter.>
The only thing I read about undergravel filters was something that Bob
wrote about them being "old school"......maybe you're speaking of
something different?
<Indeed. Reverse-flow UG filters combine the best of both worlds. The
only reason they aren't more widely used is you can't combine them with
plants.>
Is this something I can easily find at the LFS or is it something I need
to rig up myself?
<Mostly with off-the-shelf parts. Might need a little fiddling about to
get Brand X canister filter connected to Brand Y undergravel filter
uplifts, but nothing beyond the wit of man.>
the concept sounds good. I initially wanted to use sand because I
thought it would look nice and the "waste" from the fish would fall on
top and it would be easier to clean (scoop out with a turkey baster
even) but other things I have read say that it's not good with goldfish
as they may inhale too much and too many gasses would get trapped in the
sand.
<Sand is excellent with Goldfish and both these "problems" are myths.
For a start, sand is used in tanks with fish that "earth-eat" precisely
because it doesn't get swallowed or trapped in the gills; it is gravel
that can cause this problem. Secondly, a thin bed of sand is zero risk
of anaerobic decay, and even if you did get anaerobic decay, oxygen in
the water neutralises hydrogen sulphide so quickly there danger to your
fish is non existent. Odd: people accept anaerobic decay in marine tanks
and ponds, but think it is dangerous in freshwater tanks!>
I have a DSB in my FOWLR marine tank but didn't know if it would be
suitable for the freshwater goldfish I want to house.
<Not what I'd use in this instance, though doubtless it would work.>
I also was curious about your mention of adding an algae eater because
I'm a little nervous about that due to what I've been reading. Seems
that many of these like to "suck" and some eat the slower moving
goldfish......have you heard of this?
<Sounds possible. Have read this, but only observed with very small
algae eaters (Otocinclus spp.).>
And algae eater would help with tank maintenance I'm sure but I don't
want their to be a problem in the long run for the goldfish.
<Indeed; on reflection maybe a good idea to either skip the algae eater
or use something like Apple snails you know will be safe.>
Thanks again and look forward to your response.
Lisa
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Fancy Goldfish
Info 3/3/08
Thanks Neale..........you're the best!!
<I try...>
Going with the sand.... add some apple snails I'm ready. I'll have to
send pics when it's all set up and has livestock in it....
<Indeed!>
so you'll see something is say 6-8 months!! lol
Lisa :o)
<Very good. Enjoy the aquarium! Cheers, Neale.> |
Anacharis in aquariums, and as food for goldfish 2/29/08
Hi!
Just wanted to let you know that Anacharis is no longer being sold in Michigan.
It's illegal because of the invasive nature of the plant.
I found that out when looking for a good plant to help a year-old goldfish which
has developed a swim bladder problem. He was in a pond from spring - fall and
did well, but has had problems in the aquarium since then. (I do feed 'sinking'
pellets as well as flakes.)
So far, Sunkist is the only one who has had tummy troubles, and I'm hoping to
keep it that way!
So glad I found this website, it has loads of good information!
Thanks,
Karen
<If you can't get hold of Anacharis, then other similar species will do well --
Elodea, Egeria, Cabomba, etc. Plants *are* important for Goldfish, and
neglecting this aspect of their diet will end with problems! Other green foods
include tinned peas, blanched lettuce (especially curly lettuce), Sushi Nori,
etc. Daphnia also work well, and you can buy these frozen as well as live.
Pellets and flakes, by themselves, just aren't good enough in the long term.
Cheers, Neale.>
A few questions for Neale...
Silica sand use in FW, Goldfish sys. 1/25/08
Hi Neale,
<Nicole,>
Hope you are doing well!
<Yep.>
I thought I would ask you, since I have heard you say before that you use silica
sand (aka silver sand, aka pool filter sand) in your tanks...have you ever heard
of any problems arising from goldfish being kept in an aquarium with such a
substrate?
<Goldfish love sand! Your main problems are these: [1] Sand doesn't hide faeces
the way gravel does. Faecal matter in tanks with gravel sinks between the
grains, where you can't see it. It doesn't go away, but at least you can't see
it until you stir the gravel. In a tank with sand, faeces sit on top of the
sand. If you have a strong filter, they'll get sucked into the filter, but
otherwise it can look messy. I find "spot cleaning" with an old turkey baster a
great solution. If something looks too yucky, suck it up, and dump onto a
houseplant. Problem [2] is that Goldfish can kick the sand about when they root
about for food. They're happy as the proverbial pigs, but if the filter inlet is
too close to the bottom of the tank, you can end up getting sand in the filter.>
My friend tried using sand but missed his undergravel filter, so he's giving me
50# of silica sand, and I was considering using that for my future 30 gallon
semi-planted goldfish tank. I have read - admittedly, on forums of questionable
repute - that this can be problematic, causing intestinal impactions in the
goldfish due to swallowing mouthfuls of sand when they are rooting about in the
gravel, and have also heard it can irritate their gills as it passes.
<Neither of these sounds likely. For a start, these fish live in muddy
environments where they routinely throw all kinds of muck through their gills.
But from my personal experience I've see smaller fish such as Corydoras and
gobies thriving in sandy tanks, let alone massive great things like Goldies.>
Would you know if there is any truth to this? I suspect there is not, but if so,
my next choice would be organic potting soil with a layer of fine gravel on top,
since I have read that soil can be a fine substrate for a planted tank.
<Potting soil is rich in nitrate and phosphate, so tends to cause problems with
algae. I do use pond soil in aquaria, which is formulated to be nitrate-free,
but plain vanilla loams and soils tend not to be recommended. A better choice is
coir (coconut fibre) which is relatively inert but looks very nice. Your problem
here is that as much as the fish love this stuff, it makes the water completely
cloudy *unless* you have teeny-tiny fish such as killifish that can't root
about.>
I have silica sand on two of my tanks, and I notice that (for me, anyway) it
does seem to encourage smudge algae, or brown algae or diatoms - whichever it
may be! This is fine since both tanks have a trio of Otos, and they seem to
relish the stuff, but I am nervous about keeping Otos with goldfish, so I'll
just have to step up on the water changes and do two 30% changes weekly.
<The jury is out on whether silica sand genuinely creates a diatom bloom or not.
Here's the issue: silica sand is basically glass, and both are effectively
non-soluble. The amount of silicon coming out of silica sand will be completely
negligible if the chemists are to be believed. My thinking is that silica sand
is more difficult to clean than gravel, so perhaps more silt gets in, and *this*
promotes algae. Perhaps also the brighter colour of silica sand makes algae more
obvious. Finally, it's worth mentioning that all new tanks get diatom blooms; it
seems to be part of what happens when you set aquaria up.>
My plan is to keep 2 shubunkins, and a Synodontis eupterus together in the 30
gallon tank. I know this is woefully small for the Syno, but he is still "only"
6 inches and he is moving to a 55 gallon tank by the end of the year. If the
shubunkins ever get too large where maintenance becomes impossible, the same
friend who is giving me the sand has a natural clay lined pond that already has
a couple of full grown comets in there.
<Hmm... some Synodontis are confirmed fin-nibblers, so do your research here
carefully.>
I plan on massively over filtering the tank: hang-on back, 330 gph filter rated
for 60 gallons, plus a Penn Plax 115 gph canister filter rated for 30 gallons,
with a spray bar, and chock full of sponges and ceramic noodles. The hang-on
back filter will contain filter floss contained in 800 micron media bags. The
floss I plan on rinsing weekly and replacing monthly. Does this sound all right?
<Sounds great. The more you rinse the floss, the less often you actually need to
replace it, by the way.>
The plants I intend to keep are a few of the inedible kinds - Java fern, Java
moss. Some regularly thinned Salvinia on the top, and Water Wisteria in the
substrate. I plan on trying Elodea/Anacharis but I suspect it will be chomped on
heavily.
<Elodea = goldfish food.>
Is there any benefit to adding a thin layer of Laterite (20 oz.) and pouring the
sand on top? (That is, if the silica sand is acceptable, of course.)
<Laterite mixed with fine gravel, and then topped with sand (with a gravel tidy
between the two layers) works very well. It's a trifle old school, but
serviceable.>
I would really appreciate your comments, and any advice, since I am a planted
tank newbie. I have never had luck with plants; I do realize now that lack of
lighting has been the reason, along with being sold houseplants. I know better
now! My water is very hard and alkaline (alkalinity is off the charts at 300 ppm
on my test kit) and I am lucky enough to be on a well, so no need for
dechlorinator either.
<Goldfish love this kind of water.>
The city water I had before this was dreadful, very low in alkalinity.
Fishkeeping is loads easier now, it almost felt like you were speaking to me
directly when I read your hard water article! I've been meaning to try some fish
that would really appreciate the hard water and plant combination, I am hoping
that the goldfish will.
<You get it! Yep, everyone thinks hard water is a bad thing. It's actually a
blessing in disguise, once you understand how aquaria go wrong, and what it is
water hardness actually does to help.>
Thank you so much for your time. Also, your article about fish for a 10 gallon
tank was superb! I suspect you had lots more to say, but had to keep it concise
due to space constraints. I am definitely keeping it sandwiched in my aquarium
books for future reference.
<Glad you enjoyed the article! Yes, there is a lot to say about the topic of
choosing the right fish for a given aquarium.>
Take care, and thanks again!
Nicole
<Happy to help.>
P.S. By any chance, do you remember what kind of Synos these were?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ram_cichlid
I noticed you were the author of this stunning photo! The sand looks beautiful,
I've never seen such a lovely yellow color, although I am guessing it's a trick
of the light and it's really silver sand...
<The sand does look very yellow under certain lights, especially if you have
some bogwood in the tank tinting the water brown. Those cats are Synodontis
nigriventris, a nicely-behaved small, schooling Syno ideally suited to community
tanks although it is one of the fin-nibblers, so you do need to watch it
carefully if mixed with slow-moving fish.>
Aggressive goldfish... just
too crowded, not reading 1/7/08
Hello! I'm KJ! First of all, thank you for having such a helpful site, I
have really learned a lot from it!
<Ah, am glad KJ>
I have a question about my crazy goldfish (they aren't actually crazy, it is
probably more that I'm crazy about them).
<Insightful>
Anyway, I rescued two goldfish, a comet and a fantail, from my swim team's
coach's office over the summer. I became very attached to them, and wanted a
better home for them than a small bowl. I don't know exactly how many gallons
were in the bowl, but I *know* there was no way any number of fish should have
been in it. So, for a Christmas present, my parents gave me an Eclipse 12 Gallon
tank (Yay!) that I planned on moving my two lovely fishies into. However, a week
or so before Christmas, I noticed symptoms in my fantail that resembled dropsy
(I've had a beta fish die from it as well). I tried to help him/her, but I think
it only extended his life a little.
Sadly, he died on Christmas Eve. So I set up my new tank on Christmas morning,
and my parents were ready to move my yellow fishy, as I call my comet, into his
new home. I made them wait three days to let the tank mature a bit, because that
was the time most people suggested.
<Need more time than this...>
Before I woke up on the 28th, my parents ran out to Petco to surprise me and
bought FIVE new fish, 3 more comets (all very small, about 3/4 o f an inch), a
red-cap Oranda, and a calico fantail. The largest fish in the tank is yellow
fishy, my old comet, but only by about a quarter inch.
<Yikes... the 12 gallon isn't large enough for one goldfish in time...>
So the whole point of that story is that today, I was procrastinating from my
homework and watching my lovely fish when I noticed that the calico fantail had
the uppermost right tip of its tail missing. It doesn't look like rot, I already
checked that out, but it looks like it was cut off. At first I suspected the
pump that draws water into the filter, but I looked into my tank with horror as
my beloved yellow fishy was nipping the fantail!
<Yes... too crowded>
So, I have removed yellow fishy, and put him in his bowl (only temporarily, of
course). My main question is, however, even though there are too many fish in
one tank, why did my yellow fishy only go after the one fantail?
<Crowding... easier target>
And he has more room than in the bowl with my old fantail?! How should I deal
with my yellow fishy and my calico? He really just ignored the other fish in the
tank, but he chased the poor fantail... Oh, and should I treat the calico's
tail?
<Mmm, indirectly... by making more room...>
In some earlier responses, it says to treat for fin rot, but others say just to
watch it and keep the water clean.
I really hope I haven't wasted your time and I appreciate your response.
Why can't we all just get along? :)
KJ
<For about the same reason/s... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Please follow directions and look before writing us.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Aggressive goldfish...
lack of values 1/8/08
Thank you for your prompt response, but I believe you misunderstood me.
I know and understand that there is not enough room in my tank for so many fish.
I guess I did not make that clear. However, I did not buy my fish, my parents
bought them for me.
<... I understood/stand this... nonetheless... what will you do?>
As four of them were apparently only 29 cents, I would feel stupid asking to
return them. In addition, I did not buy my tank, it was also a gift, because I
only have a summer job as I am still in school.
<... impertinent>
My question was more along the lines of why my fish disliked only one of his
tankmates, not whether my tank was too crowded or not.
<It... fishes... don't dislike anything (at least to my perception), but many
are rather autistic... do "pick" on things that are "in the way">
I did read your site, I know I have too many fish, but I cannot do anything
about it at the moment.
<Then your fish will suffer and die>
Also, most questions that involved aggressiveness in goldfish involved
multi-species tank, and I have only goldfish.
In an email dated November 25, 2005, it was the opposite situation, with a
fantail bullying a comet, but they did not mention tank size. I find it slightly
offensive that by providing more information I received a rude reply with no
answer to my question.
Again, I still like your site, and maybe you were just in a bad mood.
*I really just want to know how to keep my fish safe*. I cannot afford a larger
tank, and I do not want to offend my parents by asking them to return my fish.
<... then... see the above. RMF>
Goldfish stunk up house...
12/7/07
Hi there,
<Ave,>
I moved out of my old house that I shared with a roommate just one week ago. She
had a 10 gallon tank with just two goldfish, I bought two goldfish and one
Plecostomus.
<Hang on... three Goldfish and a Plec for a 10 gallon tank? Whoa... too many
fish. These four fish will need something like a 55 gallon tank to even begin to
be kept sensibly. Goldfish get large -- 20-30 cm depending on the variety, and
the Common Plec easily reaches 45-60 cm in captivity.>
The fish lived together for about 6 months. Anyways....I bought a 10 gallon tank
of my own, and took my three fish. I set up the tank and put them in right away.
I also added water conditioner...nowhere in the instructions to my Aquarium
Start Up Kit did it say that I needed to wait a few days before adding the fish
(which I just learned from your website).
<You don't need to "wait a few days". Nothing magically happens. It's not like
waxing a floor. Tanks need to be CYCLED before use. You can do this with fish or
without fish, but either way it takes several weeks. Putting Goldfish into a 10
gallon tank is a bad idea though.>
Now, we've noticed our house smells like cat-pee...only problem is -? We don't
have a cat!!?
<Not the fish either. A healthy fish tank is odorless as far as the average
person is concerned. Fish tanks only smell if they're full of dead, rotting
things... in which case the fish probably shouldn't be there either. So let's
review: how large are the fish? What filter are you using? How often do you do
water changes? How much do you feed the fish?>
I know that goldfish put off ammonia...but I've never smelled it before.
<They don't produce ammonia but ammonium, and in very small amounts. It
dissolves in the water. The concentration is so low you cannot possibly smell
it. As any Sushi chef will tell you, the "fish smell" westerners associate with
fish is actually the smell of *rotting* fish and nothing at all to do with
healthy live or freshly-caught fish.>
Maybe the move stressed them out, (and they miss their friends?) and now they
are dispersing this awful smell???
<No. I think your imagination is running away with you a little here. If your
fish tank smells, it's because you're not looking after it properly, in which
case your fish are FAR MORE UPSET than you are!>
What do I do...I like the fish...but I refuse to let them stink up my house.
<It's the fish's home that stinks, and the reason is likely you. Don't blame the
fish.>
Please email me back...they'll have to be flushed or given back to Petco if I
can't resolve this.
<Natalie, tell me the "flushing" statement was a joke. No-one with any
conception of animal welfare would flush a live fish down the drain simply
because they couldn't be bothered to care for it anymore. The amount of bad
karma there would be enormous and you'd be at grave risk of coming back as a
slug or something in your next life. Caring for animals is all about finding out
what they need, and then providing those needs. Goldfish don't require a huge
amount, but those things are non-negotiable. We have lots of articles on
Goldfish, including some simple primers for inexperienced fishkeepers:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/goldfish101art.htm
Do also remember your Plec is a TROPICAL fish and needs a heated aquarium. While
Goldfish will tolerate warm water quite well, they will not thank you for being
kept above 24C/75F.>
Thank you very much for your time! :)
(Natalie)
<Hope this helps, Natalie-in-parentheses for some reason.>
Re: Goldfish stunk up
house... Myths, Rudeness... 12/07/2007
Hey there,
<Hello Natalie,>
Apparently you didn't read my email very well... I have two tiny goldfish (about
1 1/2 inches each) and one small plec about (3 inches).
<You don't have tiny fish; you have baby fish. Very different entities.>
(Fish grow depending on the space they're given...they CAN grow large...but I
don't want them to...so I'm not going to give them a huge space in my house.)
<Fish DO NOT grow to the size of the tank they are kept in. That's a myth. Feel
free to read up on the subject. Some large fish species kept in fish farming
become stunted, such as salmon and carp, when kept in overcrowded ponds. But
very few of the aquarium fish sold today do this. Fish are not bonsai trees, and
nothing you can do, beyond starving them, will have much impact on their growth
rate. And if you starve them, they'll die anyway.>
it's not a heated tank, but I have a proper NEW filter, and light and watch the
temperature and adjust it as needed.
<Watching the temperature is fine, but Plecostomus-type catfish need a minimum
temperature of 22C/72F to do well. Below that, they generally become sickly and
die. Go visit Florida where Plecostomus catfish have become established in the
wild. They are limited to the southern part of the state because they need
constantly warm water. If they could manage at room temperature, they'd be
halfway across the Union by now, settling into Lake Michigan. But they're not,
because they aren't coldwater fish. Period.>
I highly doubt that they'd need a 55 gallon tank - sounds quite
absurd...goldfish live in bowls in many homes for heaven sake.
<No, they don't live. They linger, and then die. Quite different. Goldfish can
live for 20 years easily, and much more than that given proper care (the record
is 45 years). Find me a Goldfish that has lived in a bowl for 30 years and
reached a healthy size, and I'll eat my hat.>
Also...you said I wasn't taking proper care of the tank and it was my fault it
stunk...dude...you really didn't listen - cuz I wrote that I bought a brand new
tank, set it up and put them in it...how could it possibly have time to grow
algae and become dirty and smelly?
<Well, you aren't taking proper care of these fish. For a start, they're in
too-small a tank and the tropical catfish isn't being provided with heat. Fish
tanks that are properly cared for don't smell. I have three in my home and they
don't smell of anything. I've kept fish for 20+ years and never smelled
anything. I've worked in universities, marine biology labs, and museums with
fish tanks... and guess what, they never smelled of anything. Bad smells come
from decay. If there's something decaying in your tank, then you aren't looking
after it properly. QED.>
in just a few hours??? Plus...if you stick your nose up to the door (that you
open to feed them) it smells like ammonia - or ammonium or whatever.
<Then there's decay in the tank. Identify the source, remove it, and move on.
Water with 0 milligrams per litre of ammonium in it doesn't smell of anything.
Even water with a lethal amount of ammonium, say, 1 mg/l, won't smell of
anything. Dead fish smell, and maybe decaying fish food. But not a properly run
aquarium.>
( Don't try to make yourself feel smart - by pointing out the difference between
the two...because it obviously smells the same.)
<I don't need to make myself feel smart. I am smart. I have a Bachelors in
zoology with first class honours and a PhD in palaeontology. I write for all the
major fishkeeping magazines and I've written an aquarium book as well as books
on other topics. I've been an expert on BBC television, a university lecturer,
and a museum exhibits designer. I've been featured in newspapers articles,
magazines, and even political cartoons. Just last night I finished grading
undergraduate papers for the history of science class I teach for Pepperdine. So
I am smart, and I really don't need to feign smartness, and certainly not by
being mean to people asking for help. So... instead of getting defensive and
mean, have a listen to me trying to offer you help. I'm taking time out of my
day to tell you where you're going wrong and what you need to do to fix things.
Of course you don't have to listen to me, but if you think you know better than
me, let's just say you're probably mistaken and I suspect your fish would
agree.>
Oh, and no...the flushing statement was not a joke... but I probably would just
take them to Petco...although flushing would be easier. ha ha.
<Hardly ha-ha for the fish, and also illegal in most places because of the risk
of non-native wildlife escaping from drains during floods, etc. Cruelty is
cruelty, whether you decide to face up to that fact or not.>
It's not a dog...it's just a damn fish.
<So? The weight of scientific evidence is now that fish do indeed feel pain,
even if not in quite the same way as birds and mammals. You can rationalise this
away if you want, but the scientists studying the issue increasingly believe
fish feel pain. Again, feel free to disagree if you're a neurobiologist, but if
not, why not listen to the science instead of acting out of ignorance.>
I am quite the animal lover (believe it or not)
<Sorry, don't believe it. Being an "animal lover" doesn't mean much if all you
do is give dogs cute names and buy posters with dolphins on them to decorate
your bedroom. Animals don't give a rip about that sort of stuff. What animals
want is to be treated properly. And that invariably means stuff giving them
adequate housing, providing the right diet, keeping their environment clean, and
ensuring they are sufficiently warm.>
I may not be some crazed hippie, who thinks that goldfish have personalities,
and you can talk to them and train them, and spend "quality time",
<Again, you're way off base here. Goldfish are widely used in animal behaviour
experiments precisely because they respond well to training. They have quite
good memories for example, remembering tricks up to 3 months after last using
them (rather better than the average dog). They are also able to learn to
recognise different humans, learning which ones feed them and which ones don't.
And yes, they do have "personalities" of a sort, with each school of Goldfish
having dominant and sub-dominant individuals. This is all science. Not crazy
hippy stuff.>
seriously dude...I don't know whether to tell you to take your job more
seriously (by actually reading people's letters...as simple as me saying I had
two goldfish, and one plec...then you came back with that I had 4 fish...what is
that, like 1st grade math?)
<An easy mistake. I misread something. So what? Doesn't make any difference at
all. You have too many animals in a too-small aquarium.>
or less seriously (cuz it's just a damn goldfish - and they're fine....get a dog
or something - with a personality, a being that can actually interact with you,
so you won't feel so alone in the world...because I'm quite sure that you are)
<I'm sorry, this sort of thing just makes you look like a jerk. I'm the guy
writing back to you trying to help you look after your animals better. You're
the guy writing mean-spirited e-mails trying to defend the fact you aren't
looking after your animals at all well. I'm the guy who, out of desire to help
others, spends an hour a day answering people's questions without getting paid
for it. You're the guy who's telling me you don't care about animals and would
happily flush them away because you they're too lowly to worry about. I'm the
guy who cares about animals by doing something constructive; you're the guy who
says they care but is actually too cheap to provide the space and heat her
livestock requires. Who'd you think looks like the person more likely to be
alone in this world?>
Happy Holidays
<Likewise, Neale.>
Goldfish... sys.
11/25/2007
Hi WetWebMedia,
About six months ago, I rescued three goldfish from a county fair. The goldfish
started out about 3/4 of an inch a piece. They are currently living in a 10
gallon tank with a GREAT filter. However, my goldfish are rapidly growing and
are now about 1 1/2 inches a piece. (One is closer to two) I realize that even
with great filtration, a 10 gallon tank is not enough, however, my goldfish are
still somewhat small. I am in the market for a new tank, but I don't know what
size to buy. I was considering a 30 gallon. Would this be enough to house my
goldfish? I really don't have room for anything larger, and I read that 10
gallons per adult goldfish should be adequate. I'm not quite sure on the species
of the goldfish, they're just the regular kind they give away at fairs. Do you
think a 30 gallon would be good? Also, what size filter should I buy, because
goldfish are quite messy? (Right now I have a 20 gallon filter for my 10 gallon)
Thank you for your help!
-Carly
<Hello Carly. A 30 gallon tank would be perfect for your Goldfish. 10 gallons
per Goldfish is too little space: these fish get to at least 20 cm in captivity,
and potentially more than 30 cm. So A good rule of thumb is to set aside 30
gallons for the first Goldfish, and then another 10-15 gallons for each
additional Goldfish. Some people would recommend more space than that, and I
certainly wouldn't disagree with them. Goldfish are schooling fish and like to
be kept in groups, at least a pair. The more is definitely the merrier. Instead
of the fish just sitting there, as tends to happen when a single specimen is
kept, pairs and trios will constantly play around, chasing each other. To some
extent it depends on the variety; fancy goldfish (i.e., fish with twin tail
fins) are less active than regular goldfish (i.e., fish with a single normal
tail fin). Comets and traditional Goldfish are active swimmers, and the more
space you give them, the better. Length of the tank is more important than
depth, so if that's a factor when choosing between tanks of identical volume, go
for the longer tank. As for the filter, ignore what's written on the box:
manufacturers are often rather vague and/or optimistic when writing that stuff!
Instead, look at the turnover of the filter. This is a measure of how much water
goes through the filter. You want something that provides a turnover of not less
than 4 times the volume of the tank, and ideally 6 times. So if you had a 40
gallon tank, then a filter that was 4 x 40 = 160 gallons per hour in size would
be the minimum, and a filter 6 x 40 = 240 gallons per hour would the ideal.
Simple as that. This number will be printed on the box somewhere, and is usually
provided by retailers on their web sites as well. You don't have to use just one
filter, you could simply buy another filter to go with the one you have. So long
as when added together they provide enough turnover, you're fine. Cheers,
Neale.>
|
please help my son's black
moor! Please... grammar and punctuation... reading... raising RMF's blood
pressure dangerously 11/16/07
hi!
i'm really not experienced with fish, but i love animals!
<No... if you did you would provide them with proper care. This is NOT love, but
selfishness>
we have 2 black moor's that we just got a week ago.
first of all, we don't have a proper fish tank, and most likely won't be getting
one either.
<... return these animals... or they'll die>
the guy at the fish shop said i could keep them in a bowl and just add the aqua
safe.
so, i have tem in a 5 gallon bowl - both fish together.
<Dismal... soon dead>
i've been adding the aqua safe as per instructions.
changed the water once so far, since the pet shop guy said once a week.
he also told me they don't die from food overdose itself but from the ammonia in
the water - produced by too much feeding (/pooping).
so, since they always ask for food when i'm around them, i've been feeding them
around 4 times a day.
i do intend on changing their water frequently... around every 5 days?
the problem now, is that in the past hours i noticed the smaller black moor's
nose/mouth is changing to a whitish color!
i've looked it up on the web and found that it could be stress(?)
i also read that 70% of the water should be immediately changed and conditioned
again.
and there's some kind of salt i could also use(?)
please, can you give me proper instruction with a 5 gallon bowl, 2 black moor.
the bigger one tends to eat most of the food too!
which is why i keep feeding them hoping the little guy gets enough.
i know this is getting too long, but if i change the water now - isn't it going
to stress the little guy even more?
for the rest he is acting completely normal, they move around a lot and they
seem to have an excellent appetite.
the little guy belongs to my 3 yr old, the older one to my 5 yr old.
last time we got little crabs, the one who belonged to my 3 yr old was also the
first to die!
please! what's going on? how do i take care of them? and how can i stop the
white from growing?
i really need proper instructions.
hubby says their going to die soon!
thanks,
lisa
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: please help my
son's black moor! Please... fix your English and re-send... Not
reading... – 11/16/07
hi bob,
are you serious?
why would the pet shop guy instruct me as such?
<You've been duped... or, much less likely, the store clerk knows
little>
well, thanks for your help (although I think you could've provided some
more support).
and don't ever call a young mother of 2 kids a selfish person!
if I would have you in person, you would be hurt by now!
I want to save him for my youngest son.
on the other hand, I have read other articles on the web where this
color change seems to be absolutely normal.
and I've also seen the example where they are in 5 gallon bowls!
our fish are quite lively, I was afraid of the color change but it he
doesn't seem to be dying or sick.
so - who's right?
and why won't you help some more?
<... Read where you were referred to. RMF> |
Sick goldfish in a small aquarium
10/14/07
Hi guys wonderful help site,
I have a celestial goldfish about 1 and a half months old. He lived by himself
in a 2.5 gallon tank until today when he received a friend, another goldfish.
When I was putting the other goldfish in the tank I noticed that he has a red
spot on his stomach and he continually swims around on his back with his stomach
on top of the water. Then I noticed that he has a small red spot around his left
eye also. I change half his water every 1-2 weeks and feed him regularly. I have
not tried to treat him with anything yet for fear of making it worse but i
continually flip him back over when he is on his back with his net. He is not
lethargic or hyper, and does not exhibit any abnormal behavior except he
continually tries to swim behind his filter an in the process flips himself over
again. Please help me I would hate to have him die without at least trying so
save him.
Thank you for your help.
<Greetings. For a start, your tank is too small for Goldfish. A 2.5 gallon tank
is really just a bucket with a fancy name. Indeed, I have buckets twice this
size just for doing water changes. Imagine I locked you up in a small
automobile, and the space inside there was not just where you lived and
exercised but also your kitchen and bathroom. How long before you got sick?
That's where you're at keeping a Goldfish in a 2.5 gallon tank. Long term,
Goldfish need a 30 gallon tank, minimum. Failure to do this ends up with sick
fish -- you will find it very difficult to provide the good water quality these
fish need in such a tiny space. The red spots are likely early-stage Finrot or
fungus. These are classic symptoms of poor water quality. Check your ammonia and
nitrite levels; if they're not exactly and precisely Zero, you have a problem.
Changing the water IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE for having a proper filter. You HAVE TO
DO BOTH! Next up, the "floaty, bloaty" goldfish likely has swim bladder
problems. This usually follows on from people failing to give a Goldfish its
correct diet -- PLANTS! Giving them just flake food = sick Goldfish. Simple as
that. So, please have a read of these two excellent articles, and then see what
you can do to improve the lives of your pets:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm ,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshmalnut.htm .
These animals depend on you to do the right thing; if spending the time and
money on their requirements is too much for you, then don't keep animals as
pets. Keep
Goldfish in what was a Marine
aquarium.... 10/3/07
Hey guys, I've enjoyed reading many of your responses to other fishy people
during my tenure in reef keeping. I have decided to go freshwater, fancy
goldfish in particular. I have a 55 gallon drilled tank and a 20 gallon sump. I
have emptied the tank, sold the skimmer and now I'm wondering if I can keep the
sump in the new setup. I was thinking of adding large gravel and aeration to the
tank and a U/V unit and bio-balls to the sump in place of the skimmer. I also
have a filter-sock in the sump. My goal is to incorporate as much of my old
setup as possible. Am I on the right track, perhaps you could suggest a better
use for the sump?
Thanks in advance,
Keith
<Yes, all this is fine. Standard skimmers stop working between about SG 1.010,
so while useful in brackish water tanks they won't work in freshwater. The UV
and sump will both work fine. Your only concern will need to be with water
movement. While goldfish appreciate relatively high levels of water turnover
(around 6x the volume of the tank per hour) fancy goldfish are not strong
swimmers. So you need to balance turnover against current. As a general rule,
the "hardy" fancy goldfish, like black moors, are more adaptable than the
"flimsy" fancy goldfish, like bubble-eyes. Good luck, Neale>
Fish Problems??? Goldfish...
crowded in an uncycled system... fighting... 9/13/07
Hi, my name is Fran and I bought a shubunkin and a black moors about 4
days ago...i put them in a 5 gal tank together
<Mmm, need more room than this Fran... and for the system to be
"cycled"... Do you know what this refers to?>
...At first I thought the shubunkin was just following the black moors
like follow the leader but now i have noticed that in the morning and
evenings when i feed the fish that the shubunkin runs up to the top of
the tank grabs a few pecks of food and the black moors stays near the
bottom...when the black moors tries to come up the shubunkin will start
being a bully to it
<Yes, symptomatic of the crowding mostly>
...shubunkin chases the black moors and almost seems like it attacks it
without biting of course...eventually, the shubunkin gets distracted and
leaves the other one alone but it keeps happening quite a bit...I
thought these two fish got along but i am starting to wonder...Please
help me if you can...
~Fran
<Only you can help yourself, these goldfish... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above till you understand... Bob Fenner>
Aggressive goldfish, sys., comp.
9/5/07
Hi, I have 2 goldfish called Slippery Benson and Hedges. Benson is your
average goldfish - orange in colour with a short tail and fins, Hedges is a
pinky silver colour with a red splotch on his head (and one red eye-he's so
cool!). Their bodies are almost exactly the same size, although Hedges' slightly
fancier tail and fins make him slightly larger. They have lived together in
their 20 litre tank (which is about 4.5 UK gallons and 5.5 US)
<Need much more room than this...>
which has plenty on interesting stuff in it for about 3 weeks but recently
Hedges has started chasing and nipping Benson. Sometimes they're totally fine,
sometimes not. Why is this?
<Natural behavior somewhat... but can be trouble here due to crowding, no where
to get away>
Slippery Benson was given to me as a present in a bowl but i felt sorry for him
so spent a ridiculous amount of money on his cool new home and bought him Hedges
for a bit of company. I can't afford anything bigger (and have no more room for
a bigger tank) but couldn't bear to part with them now - what should I do?
<Determine your priorities apart from your emotions... What is more important,
the health of the livestock, or?>
Could Hedges do Benson any real harm?
<Yes. Bob Fenner>
Faithfully,
Antonia
New tank new fish new to fish keeping
given bad advice please help.
I
recently took advice from a large pet store about keeping goldfish –
09/01/07
Hi,
<<Hello. Tom here.>>
I recently took advice from a large pet store about keeping goldfish - thought I
was being responsible did everything they told me to do - set up tank got all
testing kits, water conditioners, etc., etc., etc.
<<Why do I cringe when someone starts with, “I recently took advice from a large
pet store about keeping Goldfish?”>>
Weeks later took advice from them on how many fish for size tank.
<<Cringing again here!>>
Then I look on the internet ( yeah, hindsight is great ). I now have a 38 litre
tank with 3 stage filtration, large airstone, live plants and 3 fantails and a
black moor ( all babies about an inch long). How long have I got to get a bigger
tank?
<<Four Goldfish in the equivalent of a 10-gallon tank? Assuming your tank is
well-cycled and maintained to a fare-thee-well, I’d give this not more than
three months inclusive of the four-six weeks it can take to cycle a new
aquarium. What you have going in your favor is the small size of the fish. If
they were any larger than you describe, I’d recommend setting up a new,
considerably larger tank right now. I’ll assume that you know you should be
looking at a tank approaching 200 liters for these four fish? Heavy filtration
might allow you to drop this back somewhat to about 170 liters but I’d be
reluctant to suggest that you go any smaller than this. By “heavy filtration”, I
mean that you should be looking at no less than seven water changes per hour.
You’ll need to subtract about 10%-15% of what the manufacturer claims in terms
of liters-per-hour or gallons-per-hour of the filter. Roughly speaking, for a
170-liter tank, you should look at a filter capable of delivering about 1200
lph, as an example.>>
How can I keep them alive until it matures?
<<One 50% water change, minimally, per week. Two of these per week would be
better yet. Keep tabs on the filter to make sure it’s performing optimally.
Don’t overfeed and consider skipping a day of feeding once or twice a week.
(Your fish can go for quite a time without feeding so 48 hours without food
isn’t going to do them any harm whatsoever.) Stick with this and you should be
in good shape.>>
Do I have any comeback for the terrible advice I was given by the pet shop?
<<None. I have the interests of you and your pets at heart here but, you –
perhaps rightly – assumed that these folks know their business. In most cases,
sadly, they don’t (and they certainly didn’t in your case!). It was incumbent on
you, however, to shop as an informed consumer. Admittedly, they probably think
they’re dispensing accurate information. Obviously, if they could have sold you
a 200-liter tank with all the “goodies” that go with it, they would have. They,
quite simply, don’t have a clue as to how to properly keep these fish. If you
want a “comeback” of any sort, give them our Web address and suggest they do
some research of their own. We give “free” information even to those who are
being paid to know what they’re talking about. :) >>
Please help.
<<Hopefully, I have. (Is it Julia, by the way? You didn’t sign and I like to
know.) Best regards and good luck to you. Tom>>
Re: new tank new fish new to fish
keeping given bad advice please help
– 09/01/07
Thank-you for your very quick and excellent advice, Tom. It is Julia by the
way.
<<Thanks, Julia.>>
I will go back to the pet shop and tell them about your website. I really hope
they will look but somehow don't think they will.
<<You can lead a horse to water, Julia. Whether it drinks, or not, is up to the
horse.>>
I will try to post it on their notice board. Hopefully, some people will look
and find out more before they buy.
<<I applaud your efforts, Julia, but don’t make trouble for yourself in the
process. A retailer might not see your “assistance” as an asset to its business
in this case. Depends on how you go about it.>>
I will get a bigger tank. I could probably fit a 200 gallon one in the same
alcove they are in now.
<<Litres, Julia. 200 litres. About 52 gallons (US). (Tell the folks at the LFS
that you want a 200-gallon tank for four Goldfish and they’ll either kiss you or
escort you out of the store! :) )>>
Doesn't it look very empty with such little fish ( I know it’s what they need )?
I can see how people are tempted to overstock when fish are young!
<<Yes, it will look very empty in the beginning. It won’t for long, however,
particularly since you’ll be giving the fish a great opportunity to reach their
full potential size. (A couple of years ago my LFS set up a 1000-gallon
(3785-litre) saltwater tank for display purposes. The first inhabitant was a
two-inch Clownfish that kept following me as I viewed the tank. Now, THAT looked
empty!) I do agree, though, that it’s very difficult to “preach” the value of
understocking versus overstocking to folks who perceive that there’s much more
room for fish in their tanks. Physically, there may be. It’s the “chemistry”
that we’re concerned about. Unfortunately, if you don’t test your water, you
quite probably will never “see” what’s really going on.>>
I will take your advice and follow it to the letter and hope my poor little fish
will survive.
<<No worries, Julia. You’re taking the appropriate action well before this
becomes a problem. Stay with the course you’re on but, for peace of mind, don’t
even consider this an issue. You’ll worry yourself unnecessarily.>>
I just have to go and persuade the other half that I need to spend yet more
money (£200 down already) on an even bigger tank - he thinks I went overboard
with this one! I will keep you informed.
Thank-you again,
Julia
<<Like to hear a twist on your story? My wife has been after me for about five
years now to set up a 100+ gallon saltwater tank so we can have the type of fish
that she really likes. I confess that it’s not just the money that holds me back
but it’s a big factor, that’s for sure! Please do keep me posted. Cheers. Tom>>
Ammonia problems! Five gallon,
goldfish...
– 08/31/07
Hi!
<<Hi, Danielle. (My daughter’s name by the way.) Tom here.>>
First off, I want to say that this is a great site!
<<Thanks, Danielle. Glad you like it!>>
We bought a 5 gallon mini bow tank back in May from the LFS. Picked up 2 gold
fish and a little frog.
<<Danielle, I can’t begin to tell you how much too small a five-gallon tank is
for ANY Goldfish. 25-30 gallons is more appropriate for the fancy varieties and
figure 50+ gallons for Commons, Comets, and Shubunkins. (Now, after you’ve
caught your breath, picked yourself up off the floor and stopped disparaging the
parents of the individual that allowed you to buy Goldfish for a five-gallon
container, we can get to the details.)>>
Everyone was great for about a week and then the fish started dying.
<<Not unexpected though I’m sorry to hear this.>>
Took a water sample to the LFS and they said to do a 50% water change, that the
ammonia was high (2.5), but the nitrates and nitrites were 0.
<<Not that your fish stood a chance, Danielle, but a 95%-100% change would have
been my recommendation…daily. The tank hadn’t ‘cycled’.>>
Bought my own test kit and kept an eye on all readings.
<<Excellent.>>
After 4 more fish died, I realized that my LFS was missing something so I did
some research and learned all about cycling a tank.
<<Something the folks at the LFS apparently had never heard about?>>
Wish I would've known about that first!
<<Indeed.>>
Anyway, went to a Petco and they gave me some gravel from an established tank. I
placed it evenly throughout the bottom of my tank and let it stay there for
about 2 months.
<<A good move. Not optimal but still good thinking on your part.>>
Reading on 8/10 showed nitrite 2.0, nitrate 10., ammonia 1.0 and ph 6. I assumed
my tank was cycled.
<<Nope.>>
We took our sons to a county fair and they won 2 goldfish. One is small about
one inch and the other is about <<?>> inches. Well, I placed them in the (I
thought) cycled tank. The next day I tested the water and now the readings are
nitrite 0, nitrate 5., ammonia 2.0 and the ph is 7.5!
<<They won’t make it, Danielle. Even trace amounts, say 0.25 ppm of ammonia, is
deadly. You can’t possibly keep Goldfish alive in a five-gallon tank. They
produce too much ammonia/waste for a five-gallon tank to sustain.>>
I did a 50% water change. I'm guessing that I put in too much for the tank and
that it wasn’t fully cycled.
<<Correct on both counts.>>
How can I not lose these fish?
<<Realistically? You can’t keep from losing them. (Don’t get me wrong. We’ve
worked folks through worse but, the bottom line is that they had far bigger
tanks.) A five-gallon tank has virtually no stability. Conditions can “go south”
in a few hours with a tank this small. That said, and given the fact that you’ve
written to us (which indicates to me that you care), no more fish until we work
out what you need to keep your pets healthy and thriving. Okay?>>
Would doing 50% water changes daily be okay?
<<I don’t like coming off like a horse’s patootie, Danielle, but you’d need to
do 100% changes perhaps three times a day to stand a chance. Beside their waste
products, Goldfish (like other fish) excrete ammonia from their systems through
their gills – very specialized gill filaments called lamellae. Without proper
cycling for beneficial bacterial growth, room for dispersion/dilution and
adequate filtration, your Goldfish might as well be living (?) in a septic tank
– with about the same chance for survival.>>
Yesterday was the last time that I fed them. I read that I should wait a couple
of days. Is this okay?
<<Less feeding is better given the situation, Danielle. Not “the” solution but a
good idea nevertheless.>>
Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated!
<<Inclined to take a shot at it, Danielle? Get a large Tupperware-style storage
bin, or something similar, and fill it with dechlorinated, i.e. conditioned,
water. Move the fish to it. They’ll be better off than they are now and you
won’t have quite as many headaches. :) Purchase an aquarium of about 30-gallons,
or larger, and start the cycling process. (I’ll tell you of another ‘trick’ in a
moment.) Goldfish won’t need a heater but they will need lots of filtration.
Double or triple the size of the filter that the manufacturer claims it will
serve. Goldfish need 7-12 water exchanges per hour. GPH is what you want to look
at, not tank size. So, for a 30-gallon tank, figure on a filter that handles,
minimally, 230 gph. (There’s about a 10%-15% loss from the manufacturer’s
claims.) Decorate the tank as you’d like but use a dark (black?) substrate.
(There’s a reason for this.) Once the tank is up and running, the ‘trick’ I
suggested is BIO-Spira from Marineland. It’s somewhat pricey but you can – in
fact, must – add the fish to the tank within hours to preserve the live bacteria
the product contains. (Should be added to the filter chamber versus the tank.) A
long-winded description that I’ll be happy to go over with you in shorter
“bursts”, Danielle, but that’s what you need to do. (Save the five-gallon tank
for a Betta. Wonderful size but he’ll need a heater (Hydor ‘Theo’ – 25 watts)
and a sponge filter (quite inexpensive).)>>
Thanks,
Danielle
<<”Information overload”-time, Danielle. I realize this, which is why I’d like
you to write back with specific questions you might have, if any. A lot to
digest, certainly, but Goldfish can live for 20 years, or more, in the right
environment. Best regards. Tom>>
Re: ammonia problems! (follow-up)
9/1/07
Hi Tom,
<<Hi, Danielle!>>
Thanks for the fast reply! Maybe having your daughter's name got me faster
service, lol!
<<It didn’t hurt! :) >>
It would be nice if the LFS gave accurate info.
<<In a “touch” of fairness, Danielle, solving problems with fish/aquariums isn’t
the main thrust of their jobs. They’re there to move merchandise, period. A
shame, really.>>
After I wrote to you, I did some more reading on the site and started doing 95%
water changes. I have done 2 so far in the past 4 hours. Ammonia went down to
.25 but from what you've told me, I'll be doing this everyday for the rest of
the goldfishes’ lives! Not fair to them and too much work for me!
<<Good to hear about the decreased ammonia levels, Danielle. As you now know,
even .25 ppm can be/is deadly but it’s a far cry from 2.0! Good job and I
certainly do agree that both you and your Goldfish will need relief from the
water changes. A larger, cycled aquarium will do just that.>>
I actually went out and bought a 92 quart plastic tub the day the kids won them
to get them home from the fair (was 3 hours from our house, didn't want them to
not make the ride home). Is it okay if I keep them in there for a day or two
until I can get to the store to get all my supplies?
<<Absolutely! Nearly tripling the size of the container they’re in now will help
a lot. You don’t want to get lax about their care, obviously, but you’ll
certainly be giving yourself and your pets a “leg up” on the situation.>>
Again, thank you so much!
Danielle
<<You’re most welcome. If you have any more issues/questions prior to making any
substantial purchases, please get back to me/us. Hopefully, I’ve given you –
along with the information you’ve found here at WWM – plenty to make an informed
decision on how to go about this. No need for “guesswork”. The better informed
you are, the less chance that someone will pass off “bum” information on you
once you’re in the store. Lastly (?), if you’re in doubt about ANYTHING, don’t
make the move! From here on in, informed choices/decisions are going to be the
key to success in our hobby. My best to you and your family…and fish! Tom>>
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