Jelly-Bean... Cichlids, Behavior
Related Articles: Blood Parrots & Flowerhorn
Cichlids: maintenance and healthcare of two popular hybrid
by Neale Monks, Neotropical Cichlids, African Cichlids, Dwarf South American Cichlids, Cichlid Fishes in General,
Related FAQs: Parrot Cichlids 1, Parrot Cichlids 2,
& Parrot Cichlid
Identification, Parrot Cichlid
Compatibility, Parrot Cichlid
Selection, Parrot Cichlid
Systems, Parrot Cichlid
Feeding, Parrot Cichlid
Health, Parrot Cichlid
Reproduction, & Neotropical
Cichlids 1, Cichlids of the
World, Cichlid Systems,
Cichlid Identification, Cichlid Behavior, Cichlid Compatibility, Cichlid Selection, Cichlid Feeding, Cichlid Disease, Cichlid Reproduction,
Parrot fish behavior
I have two large parrot fish, at least 4" who are approx 8 years old.
<Oh! Freshwater... this was inadvertently placed in the marine queries
here. Even so, these fish should be much larger at this age>
They are the only fish in my 26 gallon tank.
They are eating very well and generally appear happy and healthy ( they
lose their bright orange color frequently but it returns) within hours.
<Yes; water quality (worsening) issues... Metabolite build-up...
polluted by their own wastes. Also accounts for their being "bonsai'ed"
here. Need to change a good deal (25%) of the water at least once a
week. See WWM re maint.>
They have started a weird swimming to the top and bumping hard at the
top of the aquarium. So hard they splash water out. Should I be
concerned by this behavior?
<Yes... this is manifest of the pollution mentioned... NEED more
filtration, less nitrate (as a measure, indication)... BETTER world.
<See Neale's article re this cross on WWM. Bob Fenner>
Parrot fish behavior 9/17/14
I have two large parrot fish, at least 4" who are approx 8 years old.
They are the only fish in my 26 gallon tank. They are eating very well
and generally appear happy and healthy (they lose their bright orange color
frequently but it returns) within hours. My question, They have started a weird
swimming to the top and bumping hard at the top of the aquarium. So hard they
splash water out. Should I be concerned by this behavior?
<Hello Denise. As Bob stated, the aquarium is far too small for these cichlids,
and that's likely the root cause of your problems. I bet if they
were in (or moved to) a 55-gallon aquarium then you'd see their colours and
moods would be better. So yes, do start by reading here:
Follow up by understanding that your cichlids aren't that old (12-15 years is
about the lifespan of these fish under good conditions) so we can't
dismiss these problems as "just old age". Nitrate is the key factor with large
cichlids, alongside of course nitrite and ammonia. So while good
filtration (and moderate stocking and feeding) help keep nitrite and ammonia at
zero, regular water changes (likely substantial in this case,
50% weekly if not more often than that) will be essential to keep nitrate
sensible, ideally below 20 mg/l and certainly no higher than 40 mg/l. Hope this
Parrot Fish Age Question /Illness
<Brenda (my oldest sis name also)>
I currently have 2 parrot fish that are approximately 10+ years old
living in a 75 gallon tank. The water quality is good, gets
partially changed every 3 weeks (including filters) (approx 25 %) and
has been since I set up the tank 10 years ago. The last 2 weeks
one of the fish has been off food so I did a partial water change and no
improvement. The past 24 hours he has been sitting on the bottom
of the tank not doing much.
<I'd be measuring water quality... e.g. is there more than 20 ppm of
I'm not sure what to do next?! At first I assumed perhaps he's
dying of old age, but would hate to make that assumption.
<... read here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Parrot Fish Age Question /Illness
Thank you for the quick response but unfortunately, my fish died during
I do keep a close eye on water quality and have for the past 10 years
and the fish have been extremely healthy with no problems. I know
how easy it is for fish to get sick with overcrowding and poor water
quality and that all appears to be good.
Is it possible he died of old age? I've done some research on your
website and I find a lot of references to 7 years of age as being "old"
but it doesn't say what the typical life span is for the parrotfish.
<Ten years is not uncommon, but a good long time. Could be "cumulative
genetic/replicant defects" (senescence) at play here...>
As usual I appreciate all your help!
<Certainly welcome. BobF>
New Parrot Fish
Hiding Parrot Cichlids 8/15/11
I just inherited a 45 gallon tank. I decided to get 2 Blood Red Parrot
Cichlids. At the pet store, there was a tank with 2 Parrots in it. They
looked very healthy and came right up to the glass and followed my
They were feeding all of the fish at this time so I was able to see
them eating as well. The pet store guy said that they were a pair and
have laid eggs in the tank before. So I impulsively bought the fish and
brought them home before the tank had water in it. (Yes, I know this
was not a good idea)
I began filling the water in the new/used tank and apparently the
previous owner used an under gravel filter and my water was now FULL of
poop! I then put the parrots in another 40 gallon community tank
temporarily, realizing the error of my ways. In the temporary tank they
hid most of the time but would come out when no one was looking and
were still eating. A week later the new tank was ready. I did not put
very many hiding places because I wanted them to stay out. They
completely went crazy zipping from one side to the other, terrified.
They even ran their head on the filter as they passed.
So, I put hiding places in their for them. I let them go for a few days
to let them get used to their new home. They wouldn't move or eat..
They just laid on their side and hid. I did some more research and
found it recommended to put other fish in the tank for the Parrots to
watch. The idea being that when they see that no harm comes to the
other little fish they would feel more comfortable and come out. So,
yesterday I got 3 silver dollar fish and put them in the tank. I
immediately saw the 2 Parrot fish perk up a little and watch the new
fish. One Parrot even sped from his current hiding place to where the
other was hiding and squished himself against the other, but they still
didn't eat. I am writing in hopes that you might have some
suggestions on how else to make them happy and comfortable.
I read that they were shy, but I had no idea they would be this shy!
And, in the store they were so friendly. Please help.. any advise or
criticism is welcome. Also, are the silver dollars a good tank buddy
for the parrots? I read that they would be OK but the pet store person
discouraged it. Thank you Jessica Hansen
< You fish have been through quite a lot recently and need some time
to adjust. Try leaving the light on for just a couple of hours each day
and slowly increase the photo period to at least 8 hours. The dither
fish is a good idea. When you feed the dither fish then the parrots
should come out more often. Just do things slowly and they will get use
to their new surroundings.-Chuck>
black spots and black colouring in red parrots body
and upper lips -- 1/27/10
I bought 4 red parrots and 2 Oscar babies four days back ....
they are good and eating well and fighting well .... hiding well
also in this four parrots one parrot was having a black spot on
its upper lip when I was getting it ... and now I noticed they
are having similar spots on its belly also and is black in
colour...I never noticed this when I was getting this.... but the
fish is normal in eating and playing ... but its a bit aggressive
than other fishes its always fighting and butting other fishes
.... it is the biggest fish in all the fishes ... I don know
weather its a disease or just colour of the fish . pls help .
<Hello Kareen. Before going any further, can we please remind
you to send image attachments each less than 500 KB in size? We
have only limited e-mail storage space here, and if people send
us 11 MB of images -- as you did -- that storage space gets
filled quickly. That means other people's messages will be
bounced back. We do specifically state this on the page where you
found our e-mail address. Anyway, "Black Patch Disease"
on Blood Parrots is fairly common. Unfortunately, it isn't
one specific thing. Since these cichlids are hybrids, they are
genetically variable. One of the ancestor species of the Blood
Parrot was Amphilophus citrinellus, a species that often changes
colour. So sometimes Blood Parrots develop odd "calico"
patches, just like Amphilophus spp. Obviously, there's
nothing you can do about this. On other occasions, black patches
are likely ammonia burns, just like you see on Goldfish. If you
have non-zero levels of ammonia, this could very easily be the
problem. Fixing the water conditions will prevent this, and over
time, discoloured scales MAY be replaced. Finally, opportunistic
infections such as Finrot can cause discoloured patches, just as
they can on any other fish. Certainly fighting can lead to
damage, and wounds can become infected, especially if ammonia and
nitrite levels aren't zero. Ironically given how big your
photos were, they're actually too blurry to be 100% sure
what's going on. I'd plumb for either genetics or ammonia
burns. Cheers, Neale.>
|Re: black spots and black colouring
in red parrots body and upper lips -- 1/27/10
thank you very much . I reside in India in my place the local pet
shops do not have any instrument to check water quality ... what
else can I do ...
pls help ...
<If you cannot check water chemistry and cannot check water
quality, you must be conservative. Do the following:
 Keep the tank lightly stocked. Allow 80-100 litres per Blood
 Add Rift Valley Salt Mix to each bucket of water to raise the
pH and hardness levels. Add to each 5 gallons/20 litres of new
water the following:
* 1 teaspoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
* 1 tablespoon Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate)
* 1 teaspoon marine salt mix (sodium chloride + trace elements)
Stir into each bucket of water, and then do your normal water
changes. Do not add directly to the aquarium, and do not change all
the water all at once!
 Use a robust filtration system. Aim for a turnover rate of not
less than 4 times the volume of the tank per hour, and ideally 6
times the volume of the tank. In other words, if the aquarium is
200 litres in size, the filter should be rated between 800 and 1200
litres per hour.
 Do weekly water changes of 25%.
 Do not overfeed; ideally, skip a day. Use food sparingly, and
remove uneaten food within 5 minutes. Better to feed two small
meals per day than one big meal.
 Do not use any sorts of live foods; only use pellet foods,
vegetables, and things you'd eat yourself (like little bits of
prawn or tilapia filet).
Hope this helps, Neale.>
my parrot fish turns upside down and does not eat
Hi, I am Nalin
<Hi, Nalin, Melinda with you here tonight.>
I have parrot fish which does not eat anything and is always
lying in a corner upside down. It has been with me since the last
year but since last month it is behaving awkwardly. The average
temperature of my tank is 28
degree Celsius. All the fishes are keen to eat the pellets but it
does not eat.
<Are the pellets all you are feeding?>
I had put it into the hospital tank for about 16 hours but
nothing seems to happen.
<What did you do while the fish was there
the other parrot fish is plump and easily eats food. I have
provided it with antibiotics but the matter is still not
improving. it is not able to swim properly and sometimes pant at
the surface. I also increased the oxygen supply. Please tell me a
<I think we need more information before a solution can be
revealed. Are you feeding wet-frozen foods, or only dry? What are
your Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate levels? If you'd provide
information as to what you are
feeding, as well as water quality, I think we can get this guy
Does your fish look bloated at all? Please read here on Blood
Parrots (I'm assuming this is what you mean, as opposed to a
True Parrot Fish -- please correct me if I am wrong!:
and those linked pages below the title of this article.
Re: my parrot fish turns upside down and does not eat
food. -- 01/03/10
I am feeding them pellets, blood worms <Are these wet-frozen
or freeze dried?> and coz <not a word...> I have turtles
I am giving them turtle food. The other fishes also like to eat
<It's best to mix wet-frozen foods/vegetables in with
those dry foods to avoid constipation/digestive problems.>
When the fish was there in the hospital tank I dissolved general
aid medicine anti itch
<Do you mean ich? Why are you treating for that?>
and an antibiotic which the local fish dealer told me about
<What antibiotic? Didn't you say the fish was only in the
tank for sixteen hours? Even if your fish has a bacterial
infection, what you did wasn't long enough to help it. Most
antibiotics prescribe a treatment period of at least a few days,
not a few hours.>
Did you get the photos
<Yes, I did, but these aren't especially revealing....
looks like an upside-down fish. You're not giving me some of
the information I need in order to help you. I really need to
know what your water parameters are (Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate).
Did you read where I referred you? Please read where I referred
you and use the search bar available on WWM to help yourself.
You're treating this fish for illness he does not have, then
throwing him in a tank full of antibiotics for less than a day,
etc., and what you need to be doing is reading so that you can
make educated decisions. What you're doing now isn't
going to help your fish. Please feel free to write back after
you've read where I've referred you and you can provide
me with numbers for those levels I mentioned earlier. In the
meantime, you can feed your fish the inside of peas -- take
cooked peas and squish the insides out of the shell, and feed to
your fish. This may help if the problem is constipation. I'm
hesitant to tell you to do anything because I don't have the
whole picture right now -- you're not providing data re:
water quality, and most problems fish encounter are directly
related to water quality.
Re: my parrot fish turns upside down and does not eat
food. -- 01/03/10
I read in the web page how to care for the blood parrot. Actually
I cannot check the water level quality because the testing
equipments are not available at the local aquarium shop. But I do
regularly change water after15 days or so. I have two internal
filters and one under gravel biological filtration unit. The tank
capacity is 85 litres and the fishes are pair of Koi carps, pair
of silver dollar, pair of Gourami an iridescent shark and a
sucker mouth catfish and 4 turtles. The foods which are mentioned
in the previous mail are freeze dried. Also the other parrot
keeps pushing this parrot. the picture showed an upside down
fish, it is the real problem .Thanks for your advice.
<This tank is 85 liters? I hope that is a typo. All of those
fish are in there? This tank is seriously overstocked. I would
find a shop with test kits as soon as you can. How long have you
had this setup with these fish?
I'm really very surprised that this is the first problem
you've seen! As for the food, you really should be feeding
the wet-frozen foods as well; switching over to wet-frozen
bloodworms rather than your freeze dried would help, and feeding
the peas like I mentioned earlier would help. I think your
problem here is water quality. Turtles are very, very messy, and
it's usually advised not to mix them with fish due to that
fact. Other than that, you don't mention how large these fish
are, but some of the fish you have can grow to one or two feet
long. Are you planning an upgrade? I would begin to plan this as
soon as you can, and try and come up with a plan to separate the
turtles from the fish. Please read re: each of the species
you're keeping here on WWM using the Google search tool if
you have any questions about the ultimate needs of the animals
Re: my parrot fish turns upside down and does not eat
Thanks Melinda once again.
My parrot fish has eaten boiled peas as you have said.
It has also started swimming properly but when it eats the other
parrot attacks him and he sways to the other end.
<These can be aggressive fish, and you've got two of them,
rather than a larger group. The weaker of the two has become a
target for the stronger one.>
I have made plans to separate the fishes and the turtles and I am
also planning to make a bigger aquarium for my fishes of 172.5
<This is not large enough -- you have the Koi who will need
much, much more than this all by themselves.> I cannot afford
a bigger aquarium due to lack of space but its twice bigger than
the older one and the turtles will also not cause any
<The turtles may be perfectly nice and friendly to the fishes,
but their waste is what's going to cause the problems, and
probably already is. You can't see this because you're
not testing, but I strongly advise you to purchase tests and see
what effect overcrowding and mis-stocking is having on your water
quality, and understand that water quality directly affects your
Please advise me how I can stop the war between the two fish
because and I think it is the secondary problem. The first has
<I suspect the first problem has not been solved. You will
begin to see more problems in more fish because this tanks is an
accident waiting to happen! As for the secondary problem, I would
remove the sick fish to a cycled hospital tank and allow him to
get better in good water quality, and return him once he's
strong enough to handle the aggression of the second fish.
However, these are Cichlids. As they grow and mature, problems
with territoriality and aggression are going to worsen. Again, I
ask that you look into the needs of these fish on WWM --
you'll find that many fish you keep do not mix -- in terms of
required temperature, water chemistry, "attitude" --
territoriality/aggression, needs as far as behavior
(single-specimen vs. schooling), etc. I would read, and then pare
down my stock accordingly until you have fish which can actually
live in this tank.
Parrot fighting 1/4/10
I have two parrot fishes and the bigger one always keeps
attacking the smaller parrot. When the smaller one eats it
attacks him and pushes him into the corner. To get saved the
other parrot pretends as if it is dead and keep lying in a
corner. And now it has been his habit to lie in a corner. The
other parrot also attacks other fishes. It disturbs the whole
silent atmosphere of the aquarium.
<Please refer to my other response to you today -- I think
these problems stem from over- and mis-stocking and the
aggression and water quality issues which accompany those
Fighting Parrot Fish
I've had 2 parrotfish for the past 3 months in a tank together. One
is a little bit bigger than the other, but this had never caused a
problem until now.
<Sexual maturity. Absolutely normal. Two males will fight over
territory, especially if the tank isn't big enough. Given mature
specimens are up to 20 cm/8 inches in length, we're talking some 50
gallons per mature male.>
They had gotten along perfectly fine until a few days ago.
<They're cichlids, even if, genetically, they're messed up
ones. They're gregarious when young, territorial when
Now, the big one chases the smaller one around the tank nipping at it
with his mouth. If the small one comes out from hiding, it does this
over and over until it forces it to go back into hiding. Also, now the
has started doing the same thing to my algae eater and tetras.
I'm not sure if this is normal behavior or if I need to take the
<Although hybrids, these are still standard issue Central American
cichlids. Anyone who told you they were community fish was taking
advantage of your ignorance. These fish are territorial and aggressive,
but because of their deformities, can't be kept with other (normal
Regular cichlids will simply hammer them. So, sooner or later, most
Parrot Cichlids end up being kept in tanks of their own kind, either
singly or in large groups where a single male cannot hold a territory.
This latter approach opens up a whole new slew of problems.>
<Do, please, read about the needs of your fish *prior* to purchase.
Things will get worse. If you remove the currently dominant fish,
there's a 50/50 chance the other one will be a male, in which case
*he* will become the aggressor and chase the other fish around. I
repeat, these are NOT community fish. Cheers, Neale.>
Color changing parrot
Hello dear Neale,
I hope you get this e-mail in best of your health. Neale I have two
blood parrot cichlid one was reddish orange and other was in blue
<Blue is not a natural colour. These fish were likely dyed. This is
a cruel process, and not one we approve of here at WWM. Among other
things, it increases the chances of disease. Anyway, the dye used fades
with time, and this may be the case now.>
When I bought them they were very small but now they are about 5 to 6
inch both. My problem is that they have changed their color. They both
now show very fade color like faded orange and white mix. I feed them 3
times daily and they all ate within 2-4 min (food= Hikari Bio+gold
pellet, Hikari excel pellets, flakes, bloodworms and high grade
pellets) I give them variety for diet as mentioned. They are perfectly
all right and active. Water condition is perfect. I change half of
water weekly. I do not know what has happened
wrong but I am too much worried about this. Please help me what should
I do. I will be thankful.
<Not much you can do. Enjoy your fish, and give them a varied diet
and offer them the right water chemistry (pH 7.5-8, 10+ degrees dH) and
good water quality (0 ammonia and nitrite). This will ensure the best
colours their genes allow. Cheers, Neale.>
Parrot Cichlid, beh. --
I have a Parrot cichlid for 5 yrs now. He is great! but in the last
week he has started to stay in his house a lot.
He eats fine, his color is fine.
<Wouldn't worry too much if he's otherwise healthy.>
He usually comes out when I get up but he is staying in his house
lately and he usually does not go back in until I go to bed, now he
stays in there all day. Is there a reason he is doing this?
<Could well be. Review the size of the tank for example. As fish
mature, they need more space, and cramped fish often become nervous and
hide away a lot more. Consider his tankmates. Are any of them more
aggressive or nippy than usual? Think even about things outside the
aquarium, like direct sunlight, excessive noise, high summertime
temperatures. Cichlids are often sensitive to disturbances. Cheers,
Re: Parrot Cichlid --
Thank you for getting back with me. I have never blogged or email
anyone so I wasn't real sure how this worked.
<I see. Well, not too difficult, I hope!>
I don't think any of that is the problem. His tank is 30 gallons or
more and he lives by himself. That is why I was wondering if he needed
a friend or something.
<Definitely not. Although these fish are hybrids, they conform to
the general cichlid type of being territorial and intolerant of other
fish in their territory. The downside is that being hybrids with
and jaws, they can't handle themselves with regular cichlids, which
have been fine-tuned by evolution to be able to swim, feed, and fight
So when mixed with other cichlids, Parrots often get hammered. Hence,
they're normally kept alone, or in groups in very large
I could not find information really about what other kind of fish I
could put in there with him.
<Usually (and best) kept alone, at least unless the tank is
unusually large. Your tank is a bit small for a fish that can, will
reach 20 cm/8 inches in length.>
He usually comes out and follows me all around, like watching me when
I'm in the computer room then he usually watches TV with me but now
he is just staying inside his house watching TV from the hole in the
bottom of his house. It's kinda of sad!!!! Any suggestions?
<Suspect you'd find him "happier" in a bigger tank.
This species isn't viable in 113 litres/30 US gallons. Do also
check water chemistry. This species needs hard, basic water (around pH
7.5, 10+ degrees dH). Have a read of this article on Central American
While your fish a man-made hybrid, in general terms its comparable to
other medium-to-large Central American cichlids. Cheers,
Cichlid in need of help
Parrot Cichlid Getting Intimidated By Silver Dollar
Hello, My name is Suzanne. I have a cichlid that's in need of
help. He's bright orange (solid color, no spots), about 4
inches long- I don't know what type he is.
< He is called a parrot cichlid. This is not a true species
but a cross.>
We've had him for approximately 3 years and he's never
been sick.. until now. Our cichlid has lived alone in well- taken
care of 46 gallon tank for the last 2;5 years. About a week ago,
we introduced two silver dollar fish, which the people at the
aquarium store recommended. The cichlid and the silver dollars
were fine for the first few days. A bit of fighting.. The cichlid
jabbed the silver dollars in the eye. Our cichlid got a torn fin.
I've been putting "Melafix" into the water to speed
up the healing process. But the real problem started about 3 days
ago. One morning I woke up and the cichlid was lying upright
(meaning not upside down or sideways, just upright, except not
swimming) in a shell that was recently placed in the tank. He has
been lying in that shell and hardly ever leaving it ever since
then. When I approach the tank, he comes out, swims,
and looks fine overall. His color has not changed, he has an
appetite, there are no strange spots (except a very miniscule
black spot on his head). When he swims, at times he seems
Other times, it looks like he's putting a tremendous amount
of energy into swimming, but he doesn't seem to move very
far. It even looks like he's twitching sometimes. Very
spastic. Other times when he leaves the shell (which is rare), he
hangs out on the floor of the tank and eventually, starts looking
unsteady, and veers onto his side momentarily. Inevitably, he
returns to the shell and stays there.
I'm not sure, but he looks like he's breathing heavy.
It's hard to tell. The silver dollars seem absolutely fine.
They're swimming around and look very healthy. They're
not bothering the cichlid anymore at all. They pretty much leave
him alone when he comes..
maybe approaching him a bit, but it doesn't seem particularly
We checked the water levels. The pH, nitrite and ammonia levels
were fine. The nitrate levels were slightly elevated. We changed
1/3 of the water, cleaned the filter (but didn't clean/change
the little cylindrical pieces in the filter, or the pellets- to
not over-clean), suctioned the gravel, and changed the air pump
so that now the bubbles it generates are considerably stronger
than before. The water temperature is at approximately 89
< Way too warm. Lower to 78-80 F>
He looks completely catatonic, although again, there don't
seem to be any other obvious signs in terms of his color,
appetite or otherwise that indicate illness. Is it behavioral?
That seems crazy.. but it crossed my mind
that perhaps he feels really aggressive towards the other fish
and is avoiding them. Or could it be his fin that's bothering
him? Or is he really sick? Any advice/suggestions/resources would
be a tremendous
help. Thanks so much. Suzanne
< Thanks for the photos. They were very helpful. The silver
dollars have ganged up on your parrot cichlid. He is now very
stressed and may have an internal bacterial infection. This
cichlid cross does not defend himself very well and is easily
picked on by other fish. If the silver dollars are removed he may
swim normally. If the silver dollars are removed and he's
still has a swimming problem then there probably is an internal
You fish will not get better with the silver dollars in there.
Once they are removed treat with a combination of Nitrofuranace
and Metronidazole. This may cause some ammonia spikes because the
antibiotics may affect the biological filtration.-Chuck>
Re: cichlid in need of help
Cichlid Intimidated By School Of Silver Dollars
Hi Chuck, I just wanted to thank you for your advice. I removed
the silver dollars right away and bought the recommended
medicines in case there was a need for them. The Silver dollars
have been out of the tank for
less than 24 hours, and our parrot cichlid has already begun to
swim around and is looking much more active. I'm not sure
yet, but I think it might have been just what you suggested-
severe intimidation. I'm
keeping an eye and seeing how things progress before I introduce
the medicine. Thanks very much again! (By the way, I typed the
wrong temperature of the tank when I wrote to you initially. The
was in fact around 78 degrees.. thankfully not 89 degrees!)
All the best, Suzanne
<Glad everything worked out ok and no medication was
Dark Patches On Parrot Cichlid --
6/17/08 Hello, I recently bought a blood parrot and when I put it
in my tank it developed ich. I treated it and it went away, but a few
weeks later it started developing black around its fin and just thought
it was its coloring. It still acts healthy and today I noticed it has
black on his upper lip and a few black splotches on his back. His
normal color is a light pink. What could this be? He still acts normal.
Thanks <The blood parrot cichlid is a cross between a couple of
different cichlids. It has been selectively bred for it's red
coloration. Sometimes the red coloration is broken up by blotches of
darker pigment. Scar tissue sometimes heals darker than the rest of the
body's normal coloration too. I think that this is just genetics
and is nothing to worry about.-Chuck>
Blood heart parrots, no useful info. 11/22/05
I have two of these beautiful blood "heart" parrot
fish, a green Severum, and an iridescent shark in a 55 gallon
tank. All of my water parameters look great, <Like the
"war" in Iraq? Non-informational.> but just today I
noticed that at the end of each top fin, on both the heart
parrots, there are grayish/black patches. I wondered if you could
tell me what this is and if I need to treat them, and if so, how?
<No way to tell from here, with this lack of info.> The
green Severum picks on them sometimes, but not much, could it be
some sort of bruising? Thanks for your time.......Melody.
<Umm, please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsubwebindex.htm
re Set-up, Cichlid Systems... Bob Fenner>
Re: blood heart parrots 11/24/05 Hi
Bob, Sorry about the previous lack of information. My
55 gallon tank has been up and running for about 3 months now.
When I started it up, I used Bio Spira and added about 100 feeder
Danios for 2 and a half months. I use a Penguin Bio-wheel, an
air-stone and an underwater heater. There are several
plastic plants and gravel. Ammonia is 0, Nitrates 0,
nitrites 0, ph about 7.8. I just added the green Severum
and the heart parrots about 2 weeks ago, and the iridescent shark
a few days ago. I feed them a combination of tetra flakes, frozen
brine shrimp, and Hikari cichlid pellets (extra small). The
grayish/black areas that I mentioned previously are on the top
fin towards the back on both of my heart parrots. One is about
the size of a pencil eraser, and on the other parrot the patch is
a little larger. Neither area has any raised spots, and the heart
parrots are eating just fine and acting normal. My question
was whether it could be some sort of bruising, or is it stress,
injury, or a natural occurrence? Thanks in advance for your
help......... Melody. <Thank you for the further information.
I suspect the black markings are "just natural" here...
not uncommon in this very hybridized cichlid cross. Not likely
pathogenic (caused by a biological disease agent), and I would do
nothing outright to try and "treat" them. Cheers, Bob
Re: blood heart parrots (III) - 11/24/2005 Thank you so
much! I was really worried, as I have formed an attachment to
these gorgeous creatures. I appreciate your rapid
response! -Melody. <Bob's out, so from me
(Sabrina) and the rest of the WWM Crew, thank you for your kind
Parrots fighting 4/14/07 Hey I just noticed
that my two blood parrots are fighting. They are locking
lips and pulling apart, there's not really any wound inflicted but
I was wondering if this is normal for parrots, or if I should be
concerned. thanks guys your a big help! <Is normal
cichlid behavior... testing each other out... Not a problem unless it
leads to damage... If there's room for all here, adequate feeding,
good water quality... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/neotropcichbehfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Blood Parrot Behavior
01/13/2008 I am so glad to finally have found somewhere I can
actually ask a question. I have had a blood parrot before and he always
used to hide a lot , he was in a 30 gallon tank, and I gave him to a
friend who kept him in a 20 gallon and he became much more open and
showy over time. Now I have just gotten another tank, a 20 gallon this
time, and bought 1 blood parrot, 2 black convicts, and a pictus
catfish. At first the parrot and 2 convicts would just hide all the
time or run if anyone came in sight, so I got one more parrot and for a
few days everyone seemed to be happy except for a little territorial
disputes between parrots. <Mmm, will become worse with time... these
fishes need more room than this... at least twice> The original had
picked his/her spot and didn't let the new one near it. Well, now
for at least 2 days or so, the "new guy" has been either
hiding in a plant kinda 'hanging' there, or lying on the bottom
sometimes flat on it's side. I have no idea why and I am a little
worried. I don't know the gender of either of these. Also one of
the convicts hides a whole lot , while the other seems to be fine. The
hider will only dart out and grab food quickly while the other goes
right out for it. The blood parrot was eating fine and pretty active
but now didn't even see it eat today. Also , this may be totally
unrelated but the first parrot and the outgoing convict seem to hang
out a bit and will allow each other in their "spaces" and of
course the catfish goes everywhere he wants and ignores the others
protests if they put up any. Could it be that the convict and parrot
are both just the dominant and the other 2 are hiding until they are
more secure? <No room/space to do this> Also I do not know what
to do the ph or temp at or what to add to the water to get it right.
<? Then read... on WWM, books re> My home water system has a
Culligan water softener on it, will this be good for them?? <Mmm,
maybe not... might be introducing a good deal of salt, or sodium...
perhaps better to use some outside (the house) as in the garden tap...
and warm this up with some of the inside/treated water... to dilute the
salt artifact> I really appreciate any help you can give me as I
have been searching since I got these fish to find out what to keep the
water at , etc. Thank you SO much , Jolene <See Fishbase.org... and
back to WWM for how to modify, test your water. Do write back if you
have difficulty accessing this info. Bob Fenner>