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FAQs on Dwarf Ram Cichlids
Related Articles: Rams,
Dwarf South American Cichlids, Discus,
Juraparoids,
Neotropical Cichlids,
African Cichlids, Asian Cichlids,
Cichlid Fishes in General,
Related FAQs:
Ram
Identification, Ram Behavior,
Ram Compatibility,
Ram Selection, Ram
Systems, Ram Feeding,
Ram Disease, Ram
Reproduction,
Cichlids of the World, Dwarf South
American Cichlids, Cichlid Systems,
Cichlid Identification,
Cichlid Behavior,
Cichlid Compatibility, Cichlid Selection,
Cichlid Feeding,
Cichlid Disease, Cichlid
Reproduction,
A nice male at the IZOO 04 show.
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My blue rams are growing up 8/2/06
Good evening, everyone! I will try to keep my question short while still
providing relevant information and background. No hurry on this
reply, as I am not having an emergency.
I have a 12 gallon Eclipse tank, which has been up and running for about
three years. I have had Gouramis, neon tetras in it... redoing
the tank about once a year, making sure not to over clean and starve the
plentiful green algae.
Since February, I have had a pair of Blue rams (not the German kind) which
spawned immediately after first being introduced, but ate all of their eggs
by early morning!
<Very common... Microgeophagus rarely rear young successfully w/o aquarist
intervention>
(That's ok.) They share their tank with 3 Rummynose tetras as dithers and a
Bristlenose catfish and Otocinclus as a clean-up crew.
I have removed the hood of the Eclipse (the Eclipse is my smallest and my
only "closed" system) and replaced the compact lighting fixture with two 18"
hoods, off of my two old 10 gallon tanks. They are powering a fluorescent
color enhancement bulb and a high spectrum plant light. The fish seem to
like the lights better, their colors look brighter - but since the hoods are
not a perfect fit, I seem to be getting a blob of brown and green algae
growth in the overhanging corner, attaching itself to a fake plant. Is this
harming the fish in
any way? Degrading the water quality?
<Maybe... I would "give it a swipe" with an "algae" sponge when doing water
changes (each week)>
My second question is, is this too small of a tank for two Rams to thrive
in?
<Mmm, no, should be fine>
At my LFS they were in a 125 with a bunch of different fish, Angels, African
butterflyfish, serpae and phantom tetras, etc.
<Yikes... hard to catch out of>
... so I felt kind of bad reducing their living space to just 12 gallons,
but their color is much better now than it was at the store,
and they are hearty eaters, active with friendly dispositions.
One more question: I have a 29 gallon community tank with tetras, rasboras,
various bottom dwellers. Would they be happier in this
larger tank?
<Might be... if it's not "too busy">
I thought they were better suited to a species tank but as I cannot really
afford/don't have the space to make the Rams a
bigger tank all to themselves, I am basically between these two options,
either keeping them where they are or moving them to the
community tank.
<Worth trying the move...>
They are regularly fed frozen food (Mysis shrimp, Tubifex, blood/white worms
etc.) and Spectrum pellets, a variety of Tetra foods and
Spirulina flakes. Water parameters are much the same each week, with
nitrates and ammonia always about 0 ppm. I add blackwater extract every
other week and perform 20% water changes weekly, along with daily top-offs.
Is there something I could be doing to give my Rams a better life?
Should they move into the bigger, bustling tank or would they be happier in
their own quiet corner?
<Likely the former, where they are presently>
Am I stunting their growth and diminishing their life span by keeping them
in the 12 gallon?
<Mmm, nope. Unlikely>
A conscientious aquarist wants to know! She appreciates all of your help
greatly and would appreciate a reply at your earliest convenience.
Thanks a million!
Nicole
<Welcome in concomitant number! Bob Fenner>
Rams and Plants. Dwarf cichlid... sys. 3/18/06
Hi,
Nice site!
I have a 2 and a half gallon tank (bow front). It is well planted with
a heater and small whisper filter (a newer air driven model) and
1.5" of gravel. So my question is: Can I keep 2 German Blue Rams in the
2.5? It is has been cycling for 2 months now. What maintenance would I have
to carry out?
Thanks,
Anthony
<This is really too small, unstable a "world" for Apistogrammas,
Microgeophagus... but could be tried... with care in pre-making, storing all
new water, extreme regularity in maintenance. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/rams.htm
and the FAQs file linked above. Bob Fenner>
Ram Now Has Popeye 2/18/06
Thanks for your quick response last week. I QT'd the fish and followed your
advice with the Furanace. Unfortunately on day 3 of the treatment I
noticed that the expiration date on the medication was 2 YEARS ago... the
ram hadn't really eaten in 4 days and I didn't think he would
survive another 4 days with new meds so I put him back in the main tank
where he was eating and happy to be with his mate. His nares got better,
I kept up with water changes and thought all was well. (My ammonia, nitrites
are 0, less than 10 nitrates, water is RO with RO Right mixed
to keep a lower pH and softness...)
Yesterday he developed Popeye. I QT'd him again, added Stresscoat and Epsom
salts to his tank. (His QT tank water is all at 0 as above). I
see no symptoms of anything wrong, just one eye bulging out. The other eye
may be swollen a bit, but not much I can tell. Is there anything I
can do to help this poor fish? I just can't figure out what is wrong with
him... is there an all purpose antibiotic I should try on him?
Thanks again, Cathy G Oh, the expired meds all came out of a fresh shipment
of meds to the
store - somebody needs to get a better supplier me thinks...
< The Popeye is an internal bacterial infection behind the eye socket. Treat
with Metronidazole as per the directions on the package.-Chuck>
Ram Cichlid With Bloody Nose 2/10/06
I have a Halloween Ram - commonly known as a blue ram. He has been living
just fine with his pretty wife, (I performed the ceremony
myself), they eat and spawn regularly. Nothing has changed in this planted
tank except that a week before this happened I rearranged a
couple of plants and driftwood. I do frequent water changes, everything is
0 except nitrates - these are less than 10. The water is soft, pH is 6.8,
temp is 82.
My ram has developed glow-in-the-dark red nostrils. 2 days ago he went into
hiding and stopped eating. Now however, he is out and about, eating and
exploring as usual.
You can see him coming from a mile away - maybe I should have called him a
Reindeer Ram as in Rudolph. He has always flashed a bit here and
there, I have never seen anything external on his body or in the water and I
am always looking for potential trouble!
I was thinking of using Clout - in case there is something in the
water. But perhaps I should use an antibiotic instead? Maybe both,
first the Clout? What is your opinion? Do the nares actually have openings
in the fishes body or are they just a membrane under the
surface of the skin? Any opening would probably be susceptible to an
infection, yes?
Thanks for all your time on this site. It is a wonderful resource that I
scavenge daily! Cathy
< The nostrils are actually functional. When then eat a food item that fills
their mouth they can continue to breath. The red indicates a probable
infection. You have a pretty clean set up and it may go away on its own in a
few days. To be sure you should isolate the fish in a hospital tank and
treat with an antibiotic like Nitrofuranace. If you treated the main tank
then the antibiotic may affect the bacteria needed for nitrification and you
might need to cycle the tank all over again.-Chuck>
Balloon fishes 2/1/06
Dear WetWebMedia,
<Ivy>
What is the difference between a regular Molly or Ram and their "Balloon"
version? How did this difference come about? Is one less healthy than the
other?
Thank you.
<The "Balloon" types are "sports", human-made/allowed mutations... same
species. "Made" by naturally occurring variation and selection by breeders.
Sometimes such mutants are more "aquarium-hardy" than wild-types, sometimes
not. Bob Fenner>
Rams Breeding :-) 1/31/06
I have a 120 gal that has an Xp3 filter (rated well over 120 gal.) a 4 bulb
compact fluorescent Coralife light, 4" fluorite eco-complete mix, 2 300 watt
heaters, 100-150 plants, 2 LARGE pieces of driftwood, ph 6.9, ammonia 0,
Hardness: medium. I have 6 rams, 6 cardinal tetras, 4 lemon tetras, 4 clown
plecs, 6 Cory cats, and 3 killies. I believe my rams have spawned, because
there are about 50-100 little white eggs that look like pictures I have seen on
google. One of them hovers over the broad leaf they are on and when I went to
move a plant, it went for my hand. I looked, and to my surprise, I saw a bunch
of eggs! What do I do? FOOD, REMOVE, KEEP TOGETHER? I really don't have another
tank, so I would like to keep them in the 120. Please tell me what I need to do
to care for them. I have bred Cory's before, but didn't notice till there were
only five left, so please respond promptly, so I can keep as many as possible.
I'm not trying to count my eggs before they hatch (lol lol lol),
but will LFS's want these at all, or are I better off keeping them?
>>Anthony, baby rams are really tiny when they hatch, and very sensitive to a
small parasite called Tetrahymena that may well be in your tank without
affecting anything. From my experience you will need to raise the fry in a clean
bare tank with live micro worms etc, but you could try to see if some will hatch
and grow up in your tank. Add a night light with a very dim glow to make sure
your Plecos do not eat the eggs/wigglers when it is dark. Good Luck, Oliver
Re: Rams Breeding 2/1/06
Hi, thanks for the info, but roughly how often do they breed? Monthly,
bimonthly?
Thanks, Anthony
< When they are in good shape and conditions are right about once every two
weeks.-Chuck>
Ram system 1/19/06
Hi again, I am starting (planning) a Ram tank and getting all of my
stuff together. The tank is a 90 gallon. I plan on having 12-14 Rams in it,
along with some live plants. I do not plan on using CO2 unless I run into
problems, so the plants will be easier ones like Crypts/Swords. I have a
CPR wet/dry filter (CR1000). I know the Rams are sensitive to Nitrates and am
concerned that the wet/dry may be a nitrate factory? Should I take some filter
media out?
>> I would not worry about the nitrates as much. A regular and frequent
water change of around 25% a week will ensure that you do not have problems.
Good Luck, Oliver
Sorting Out Ram Cichlids 1/19/06
Hello there, I have been reading, and thinking, and reading some more. Thank
you for such
a comprehensive site! I would like to set up a South American freshwater
tank. I would like to get a few rams (Microgeophagus ramirezi). I have read
that the German rams
are healthier (or hardier might be a better word,) than the Asian bred ones.
I live in Alaska and do not have a LFS. I need to order online. So, I am
looking at the few suppliers that will ship up here, namely Dr. Fosters and
Smith. They have “German rams” but they are listed as bred and shipped from
Thailand. Is this a sub-species? When I read it earlier in an article I
took it to mean that the Germans were breeding a hardier line. I probably
misunderstood, could you clear this up for me? Thank you so much for your
valuable time,
Cindy Haralson
< First you have the wild rams from Venezuela/Colombia area. A very beautiful
but somewhat delicate species. The Germans began to breed the rams and developed
a domesticated strain that is hardier than its wild counterpart. In Asia the
farms were breeding rams, golden rams and now German rams. German rams have a
few more darker spots around the head and back. Check aquabid.com for German
rams too. I know a local breeder at Mainlycichlids.com that can sell mated
pairs. He is in Calif and could easily airfreight a box of fish up the
coast.-Chuck>
Re: Setting Up Plants In a Ram Tank
Thank you very much for the reply and recommendations, it is greatly
appreciated.
I have three more questions. I have probably been reading too much or fallen
prey to manufacturer's selling techniques, but, is it necessary to treat RO
with an additive like Kent's R/O Right?
< Plain R/O water has no buffering capacity and the pH can go all over the
place. Fish don't like this unstable water so you need to use a buffer.>
Also, I have broadened my options for substrate to the Eco Complete, Seachem's
Fluorite, and/or Laterite. What would you recommend for plant AND ram health?
< I have had very good success with Fluorite. Laterite is too easily disturbed
and makes a mess , but plants love it.>
Will any of these substrates affect the hardness in the tank water to a level
that the Rams will not appreciate?
< No.-Chuck>
Thanks again, Scott
Adding Chemicals to R/O Water For German Rams 1/16/06
I plan on using Buffer to do the 6.8 pH that you recommended, but the R/O
Right adds some salts and other "essential stuff" that the water supposedly
needs to be healthy--even for a soft water tank. I hadn't heard about the
needing to do that, so that is why I was confused. So would you add it? Thanks
again, Scott
< I would recommend that you follow the directions on the package and see how
the rams are doing. German rams are a domestic strain of rams that are much
hardier than their wild cousins.-Chuck>
Setting Up a Ram Tank - 01/12/2006
Hi Bob, before I get started, I would just like to say that your site is
the best source of aquatic advice and information that I've
found. Unbelievable how much information you guys put out, and also how
consistent you are! Thanks for the site.
< Bob and the rest of the WWM crew thank you for you kind words.>
Now to the fun stuff! I am getting ready to move into my first permanent
residence since living with my parents, and I am going to shut down my reef
tank with the move and make a change most of my friends with aquariums don't
understand. I'm going to start a German Ram tank. They have been my favorite
fish since the moment I saw them years ago. I will be using a 90 gallon tank,
48"L x 18"D x 24"H. I will be using RO water with Seachem neutral regulator
combined with their Discus buffer to get my pH set. I know people recommend
anywhere from 5-7 pH, but what single number would you want?
< 6.8.>
Also, I want to get pairs of rams, so how many pairs should I get with the tank
dimensions that I have?
< Six to eight pairs.>
I have heard some people claim you should use a 2 to 1 ratio of female to male
rams also, then others claim just one female per male. What do you recommend?
< Six males to six to eight females.>
I plan on using live plants that aren't too delicate so they don't
fall apart. I have ordered "Eco Complete Plant substrate" to use
with them. I have a sump that will use CPR's bio bale for
biological filtration. I have ordered a 216watt T5 light fixture,
not wanting to hang any Metal Halides in our new house. Is that enough light
for Swords or any other plants that you'd recommend with the tank being 24"
deep?
< If the swords don't work then try some Cryptocorynes.>
I'm also figuring on throwing in some Cardinal and Glowlight Tetras. And the
biggest 2 questions. What have I not thought about that I need for the tank,
and what have I forgotten to tell you? Thanks again for the website! Scott
< Rams are my favorite all time fish. They like warm water of at least 82F+.
German rams are much hardier than the wild ones from Venezuela. Don't let the
nitrates get up over 10 ppm. Quarantine all your fish before putting them in the
big tank.-Chuck>
Egg Eating Rams Moving to New tank 12/1/05
Hi there and thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
I have a 25 gallon freshwater with 1 Pleco, 3 gold rams, 1 Curviceps cichlid
<<Chuck, or anyone else, if you get a chance, would you provide me with the
genus and species of this animal? Marina>>
<<<Flag cichlid. Used to be Aequidens Curviceps, is now
Laetacara Curviceps .>>>
and 2 African butterfly cichlids, 2 plants, a large rock/cave, piece of wood on
slate and a small bridge. 2 of the rams have had eggs 4 times thus far and each
time the eggs are eaten/disappeared usually when I wake up in the morning and
after usually 2 days. The butterfly cichlids I purchased about 4 weeks ago have
just laid their second batch of eggs. The first batch had the same fate as the
ram eggs. Any idea's of what I can do to try to help them keep the eggs? Should
I try an egg light (read that on your site)?
< After spawning the fish are exhausted and have expended a lot of energy to
spawn and have worked up an appetite. Try to keep them well fed with lots of
baby brine shrimp or micro worms. Egg eating is a problem for these species and
they can get into a habit of eating eggs that is hard to break. the eggs could
be removed and hatched artificially.>
I am also purchasing a 55 gallon that I would like to move most of the occupants
too, but still keep one of the mated pairs in the old 25 gallon. What is the
best way to get the new tank safely cycled and not damage the old tank or kill
any of my fish when they get moved?
< Take some of the old gravel and place it in the new tank. The bacteria in the
old tank are needed to get the bacteria in the new tank going. Add new fish
slowly over a week or so. Quarantine any new fish from the store for at least a
couple of weeks before adding them to an established tank.>
Is it possible to run the new filter for the 55 gallon on the 25 gallon without
doing any harm to the fish and using the old 25 gallon filter with the new tank
to help the process? Should I move some of the substrate and/or plants,
ornaments?
< Swapping filters for awhile will not harm anything.>
Thank you for any help you can provide, I really appreciate it. Your site is a
great resource, thanks for all the time and work you all put into it. Troy
< Thanks for your kind words.-Chuck> Gold Ram Spawning 11/1/05
Dear Bob,
<Actually, Sabrina here, in his stead.>
My pair of Gold Rams has spawned 4 times.
<Excellent!>
The three previous times they have eaten the eggs after lights out.
<Bummer....>
So this time I decided to place the eggs in a net breeder in the tank. I
would have preferred to have left the eggs for the parents to care for
but they seem more motivated to eat than parent. My question is how do I
determine the fertile eggs from the infertile? They are all white in
color, but the majority of them are translucent. The eggs that I think
are infertile are the eggs that are more of a solid white or cloudy
white.
This is correct.... Usually the viable eggs will be more clear-ish, or
maybe orange-ish.>
From everything that I have read I am supposed to remove the infertile
eggs because they will cause the eggs around them to grow fungus. Is
this also correct?
<That's the best idea, yes. You are correct.>
Thanks for the help, -Mike Mural
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Re: Gold Ram Spawning 11/2/05
Thanks for the quick reply,
<You bet.>
The eggs that have turned white are the empties. I have little fry wriggling all
over the leaf I removed with the eggs.
<Ahh! A delight!>
I thought it took 60 hours for them to hatch. I also have discus in the tank and
the temperature is 85°F, could this cause them to hatch more rapidly?
<Yes, certainly.>
It is a well established (4 years) heavily planted tank. I want the fry to make
it but was not prepared for them to breed so quickly after eating the last batch
of eggs. So my problem is what to feed them. The fry are much smaller than the
Kribensis fry I have raised in the past. So I added some Java Moss from the tank
to the breeder net. I tried to hatch some brine shrimp but they have not hatched
yet. So my main question is what to feed them since I am in a bit of a squeeze?
<In this heavily planted tank, there are tons of opportunities for tiny and
microscopic life.... Any piles of decaying plant matter, rotting leaves, or
other detritus in the tank? I would add some of this to the breeder net.... with
caution, as it could "foul" the water in their little world rapidly. Otherwise,
you might try liquid fry food available at fish stores, or even dried, powdered
egg yolk.>
Thanks again, -Mike
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Judging LFS, Fancy Rams 9/16/05
I usually deal with saltwater aquariums and reef aquariums, but a particular
fish caught my attention one day while walking through my LFS. This is
generally a store that I hate as most the workers can't answer questions and the
animals always seems to be dying (fish) and the mammals always suffering from
dirty cage neglect.
<It is usually best to avoid purchasing from such places, as they will only
continue to replace the animals that you've bought....>
Okay.. venting over.. so I came across a fish which they referred to as a gold
veil angel ram. Basically a long-finned gold ram with an angel fish shaped
body. The colorations and disposition of the fish caused me to immediately fall
in love with the fish and I proceeded to plan my future purchase. Originally I
bought a few for my grandmothers aquarium that I take care of.. the 3 I placed
I've had for over 3-4 months and they're doing great. I also moved my aquarium
at my parents house inside for my sister (as I don't live at my parents house)
and got it up and running with plants and driftwood and fish.. the plants are
really taking off.. but I have to focus on the pH as it's a little too basic for
Microgeophagus.
<Okay>
Here's the problem.. I bought 5 of them from my LFS today and they came with a
problem. They have this little tumor like cysts in their bodies some of them 1
or 2 .. but no more than 3.. they are about half the size of a grain of rice..
probably even smaller, they react like normal and don't show any signs of being
sick.. now.. here's the reason I bought them.. This fish I haven't been able to
find online and this is the only fish store on Oahu that gets them in stock.
<Perhaps another/better store would order them for you?>
And worse.. they only get them 1-2 times a year and normally by the time they
get them in stock they're sold out. So yeah.. I took the chance.. So.. back to
the tumor like things.. they appear to be brownish in color.. they aren't
translucent.. but you can see them clearly through the fishes
body.. at the moment I have the 5 in a 5 gallon hospital tank being treated with
paragon. I wish I could get a picture for you guys but I don't have a digital
camera. I can try an borrow one and get one too you by next week.. but if
anything I'm more curious as to if this is something fatal, curable, or whatever
other possibilities there are.
<Chuck's archived response to you can be found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/ramfaqs.htm
. Though I agree with Chuck's suggestion that they are digenetic trematodes
(that's, external parasites, similar to worms, that require different animal
hosts at different stages in development - the snail/bird/fish parasite he
suggests is one), I would also propose that these things could in fact be tumors
or granulomas, possibly even from mycobacteriosis.... In any of these cases,
treatment is of no help, and in the case of mycobacteriosis, treatment is very,
very unlikely to effect a cure and may even be harmful.>
Otherwise.. I'd also like it if someone could give some background information
on them as I know they're probably a product of inbreeding. Either way. Any
info would be greatly appreciated.
<Indeed, they are not natural in color or shape. I can't find much on this
"new" body shape; though, I've seen "balloon" rams (similar to balloon mollies)
as well.>
Thanks -Jonathan
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Ram Cichlids, Water - 08/18/2005
Hello! GREAT site.
<Glad you enjoy it!>
My question to you is if my local water ph is high (sometimes reads to the
maximum of my regular ph test kit which is 7.6 - 7.8, I don't have a higher
reading test kit, so I can only guess if it's more)
<Do please get a test kit for higher ranges, and find out what, exactly,
your pH is.>
can I still keep dwarf rams?
<Likely, if you can find a local breeder who raises them in similar
conditions.>
I have a 55 gal. with tetras, an angelfish, and two Corys who all seem to be
doing well. I have yet to lose a fish in the two years since setting up the
tank except for the second angel that the first one terrorized. I know these
are all from similar waters as the dwarf rams, so what do you think?
<Likely no compatibility issues here. Sounds good.>
Have you ever seen them do well in a high ph environment?
<Yes.... even breeding. But again, you should strive to find rams that are
already used to such a pH from a breeder in your area. Try asking around at
fish stores, and join any local fish clubs within reasonable distance.>
I do have lots of driftwood in there, but no real plants, only fake ones.
Also, I never tested the hardness of the water. Will that be a factor?
<Possibly; it is certainly worth knowing when you seek out someone with
similar conditions from whom to purchase your fish.>
THANKS! -Marty
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Revisiting the Ram - 07/12/2005
Hello!
<Hi, again! Sabrina here....>
I have a 10 gallon tank with 5 guppies, 1 Cory and one ram. I have had this
ram for only one day, and it's not eating.
<One day.... If by this you mean you got it earlier today, I would not be
concerned about it not eating. If you got it yesterday, it might be a
different story. Be sure to offer a variety of tasty foods, and keep in
mind if the ram is large enough, or the guppies small enough, if you don't
get food in him soon, he may be looking at those guppies and licking his
lips pretty soon. Rams are timid, but cichlids nonetheless.>
I think it is still a little bit in shock, but I just want to be sure. Also,
I want the Ram to have the best colors and I would like to know what would
be the best food to give it... I have flakes and dried bloodworms, but what
else?
<I would try high-quality frozen foods, or failing all else, I would try
live foods.... never tubificid worms (Tubifex, blackworms), but live
bloodworms, mosquito larvae, or brine shrimp are an option, if he refuses to
eat over the next few days. Once you get *something* in him, it'll be
easier to get him to eat other foods. Also, as timid and shy as rams are,
be certain that there is plenty of cover and lots of good hiding spots for
him, so he'll feel safer in coming out to eat. If he's scared, he may just
refuse to eat and may even starve.>
Thanks a ton! Christine
<You bet. Good luck with your fishes, -Sabrina>
Stocking a 10g Freshwater Tank - 07/12/2005
Hello,
<Hi!>
I have a ten gallon tank with one Ram, five guppies and one Cory. Whenever I
look at the tank it seems really empty, and I was wondering if I could get one
or two more Rams or maybe a Krib...
<I would not. In such a tiny space, should you end up with two male rams (ore
even a male ram and a male krib), they will likely harm each other for
territory, and should you end up with a male and a female ram, and they choose
to breed, they can and likely will make very short work of your other fish. I
would really advise against making this addition.>
On a forum I heard about a person having four Rams in one tank, of course that
would be too many, but two or three....
<Do keep in mind that these ARE cichlids, however timid, and DO have cichlid
tendencies when breeding or staking out territories.... A m/f pair in a 10g
tank with no other fish would likely breed and could do quite well, but any
other fish - other rams included - could be damaged or killed. A ten gallon
tank just doesn't offer the space they'd need to establish multiple
territories. It might work out for a few months, but ultimately, harm will
probably come of it.>
Thanks for your time!
<You bet. Sorry to put a damper on it - BUT - another consideration for
yah.... Corys are very serious schoolers, and tend to be much more active and
"cheerful" when in groups of at least three.... I would recommend adding a
couple of the same species of Cory to perk up your pal and make your tank more
active and "full" seeming. I will caution you, however, that this may be
somewhat taxing on the stocking of your tank; test very often for ammonia,
nitrite, and nitrate for the first few weeks after adding the Corys (if you
choose to add them). Keep ammonia and nitrite at zero, and nitrate less than
20ppm.>
Christine
<Wishing you and your fishes well, -Sabrina>
More about Christine's Ten Gallon and Ram/s 7/12/05
Hey Crew!
<Christine>
My name is Christine, and I have recently bought one Ram and a couple of
fancy guppies.
<Mmm, the Ram may chew on the guppies tails...>
I've put them in a 10 gal. and then found out more about Rams on
your site. From what I could gain, Rams would prefer more company with their
own kind... Should I get another Ram? I also have a Cory in the 10 gal. Also,
the average pH in the tank is 7.0, is this ok for the Ram?
<Should be fine>
And would a
temperature of 78 degrees work, or is it too low?
<Would be better a bit higher, but the guppies prefer the water to be where it
is... or cooler>
Your web site is great!
Christine
<I would go ahead with the addition of the new Ram, and make a plan for moving
the guppies. Bob Fenner>
Working with Ram Cichlids 6/31/05
Hello, I'm going to get two ten gallon aquariums, and I want to put rams
(Papilochromis ramirezi)
<The correct name is Microgeophagus ramirezi.>
in one of them. Your website recommends 27-30 degrees C, 5-6 ph, and 5-12 dh. I
have an "Aquarium Owner's Guide" that recommends 22-26 degrees, 6-7 ph, and 3-8
dh. Do you know if this is because of a different subspecies than the one
mentioned on your website, or if the information is wrong?
< In the wild these fish can come from open savannah type pools that receive no
shade from trees. The tropical heat can send these water temperatures all the
way up to 35 C. The pH of this water can be extremely acidic and be down as low
as 4.5 -5.5 with a hardness below 1 dGH. At these levels not too many other fish
would survive and rams don't need these extremes to do well in an aquarium. I
would use the recommendations from the WWM website if you are going to be
keeping rams in a community tank situation and the recommendations from your
aquarium guide if you want to set them up for breeding.>
Also, since rams require such a high temperature, what kind of small fish do you
recommend to keep it company?
< At such high temperatures the water tends to not carry as much oxygen as it
would at lower temperature so you need to increase the aeration. Little Amazon
tetras that don't get too big should be fine.>
Finally, the tap water where I live is very basic (8.6 ph) and very
hard (26.9 dh). What is the most effective way lo lower the ph and dh? thank
you.
< There are many different ways to do this but I will give you the simplest
answer. Go to a water store and buy 8 gallons of distilled water. Mix it with 2
gallons of your tap water. Every week you should to a 20% water change and
replace the water with 80% distilled water and 20% tap water. At this ratio of
distilled to tap the water can usually be acidified using peat moss if you
really want to get the pH down.-Chuck>
Ram systems
I'm going to get two ten gallon aquariums, and I want to put rams
(Papilochromis ramirezi) in one of them. Your website recommends 27-30 degrees
C, 5-6 ph, and 5-12 dh. I have an "Aquarium Owner's Guide" that recommends 22-26
degrees, 6-7 ph, and 3-8 dh. Do you know if this is because of a different
subspecies than the one mentioned on your website, or if the information is
wrong? Also, since rams require such a high temperature, what kind of small fish
do you recommend to keep it company? Finally, the tap water where I live is very
basic (8.6 ph) and very hard (26.9 dh). What is the most effective way lo lower
the ph and dh?
>> Go with ph 6-6.5, 3-10DH and temp from 26-29C. You can keep them with any
small fish from the Amazon like cardinals, Rummynose, and Corydoras. Best way
with water like that hard and alkaline is to get water from another source,
since you need only 10 gallons you can get it from a friend with better water,
no reason to play with chemicals to lower the values, good Luck, Oliver.
Ram question, peat in a bag
I've been wanting to get into cichlids because I like their color but lack
experience. I was wanting to put my tank to the test as far as tankmates goes;
I've got long-finned danios, angels, balloon-belly mollies, an Opaline Gourami
and a peacock eel. I saw that danios were in the "tankmates" section to get the
rams out but I wasn't sure about the others. Water maintenance is no problem; I
work at a pet store where we do free water testing so that shouldn't be hard to
do at all.
<Should get along if the system is large enough>
I also had a question about peat, though. I've seen that angels like peat as
well in their water but I didn't know how to make a bag. I don't want to order
online but I want to make my fish happier. Is there a way to prepare a peat bag
(or even a way to install it into the substrate/filter)? Or do you have it
posted somewhere and I just haven't found it?
<Mmm, you can/could buy, use a Dacron bag made/sold in the trade for containing
such chemical filtrants... but pantyhose, stockings can work here as well... and
yes to "just" placing the boiled peat and bag in the tank, under the substrate,
though placing it in an area of water flow is better for more rapid effect. Bob
Fenner>
Thank you for your time,
Sarah
Re: Edit: Ram question
Edit: I also forgot to ask if I would need to get more than one; I wanted a
ram as an ornamental fish but had no intentions on breeding. Do they prefer
more of their kind? Which sex would you recommend for a non-breeding tank?
<Is better to have more than one... is a social species... A male and female are
best, but two or more males or females can/will do. Bob Fenner>
Non-utilization of Spellchecker/Grammar - Ram Setup
hey. am cycling a 30 gallon tank. right now all I have in it are some rock
with some forming a cave. I want to keep about 3 ram cichlids and other fish
such as Corys, tetras, and other small cichlids. now I just need to know. what
can I do to make sure that my little rams lead very happy little lives. I have a
20 watt light, I've set the temperature to 28 degrees Celsius. what plants can u
suggest I add? my pH is at 7 and always has been. I have successfully kept
angelfish, Neons and mollies in the past. do rams have similar requirements??
also I only have ever fed my fish flake food. what live or frozen foods can u
suggest I feed rams. would there be anything around the house to feed them? I
cant wait until I've finished cycling!
<<your setup seems fine. Check with your LFS what plants they have that will
thrive at the higher temperatures that the rams like.
you should add some frozen foods to their diet. Blood worm is very good, but
make sure you are not allergic (many people are), also frozen brine shrimp and
white mosquito larvae (glassworm) will be a good addition to their diet.
Try to get two pairs, your tank is big enough.
Have fun, Oliver! >> What Goes With Rams?
Hey. I'm getting a tank of about 20-30 gallons size. and I definitely want
to keep at least 2 ram cichlids and about 4 Corydoras catfish. Any other
suggestions of fish? Maybe other cichlids, or a shoal of tetras?
< Any school of tetras, rasboras or danios would be fine as long as they
don't get any bigger than two inches. Other dwarf cichlids like
Nannacara anomala, Laetacara Curviceps or Apistogramma species would
also work well.>
For the rams and catfish what sort of live plants can you suggest?
< Stay away from most stem plants unless you plan on adding CO2. Amazon
swords and many Cryptocoryne species would work well.>
I also want to put rocks in my new tank. If I buy them out of water from
a shop, do I need to soak them in water and for how long?
< Rocks that are suitable for the aquarium need to be rinsed well to
remove any dust particles that may have accumulated on them. Then they
can be placed in the aquarium right away.-Chuck>
Thank you. James
SEXING RAMS
How can I determine sex? I have one but want to get a mate.
< Rams are different from many other dwarf cichlids in that they are not
sexually dimorphic like the Apistos and Nannacaras. I discovered this little
technique years ago that seems very reliable.
First of all males are slightly larger than the females. The forehead is a
little broader on the males too. Females that are mature may have a rosy pink
area on their belly. Males fins are slightly longer than the females.
Take a very close look at the black spot located on the side of the fish with a
flashlight. On most males they have numerous blue scales on the side of the fish
except over the black spot. Females on the other hand have larger more
pronounced scales in and around this black spot. Sometimes they are slightly
different colors too.
Check out any good dwarf cichlid book at the LFS that shows a breeding pair of
rams and you to will soon see the difference. Sometimes all the fish in the tank
are the same sex. If you rams were imported from Asia then they may have
artificially enhanced longer fins too. This is one of my favorite all time fish.
Good luck.-Chuck>
Sexing Blue ram cichlids
Hello,
<Hi there>
I would like to know if there is any way to tell the difference in sexes of blue
ram cichlids, AKA Microgeophagus ramirezi. And if so, how?
<This is posted on our site... which you would have seen, had you had the
courtesy to follow instructions:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/rams.htm>
Thank you,
Spenser Nice
P.S. I have tried sending you an email asking this same question before and
received no reply. I would really like to figure this out, and so would the head
fish guy at my local pet co who is also an avid reader of your site. Again,
thank you and please send me a reply.
<Please read. Bob Fenner> Re: Blue ram cichlids, WWM, misrepresenting
oneself... life
Dear Bob,
<Spenser>
Just so you know I read off your site about an hour every night, and I
dimply had not come to that section yet and was unable to find it using
the Google search.
<... my young friend... putting the terms in the Google search tool on
site: "Blue ram cichlids" yields this:
http://www.google.com/custom?q=blue+ram+cichlids&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com>
I know that you guys do this as a favor to people, and I appreciate it
very much, as do many other people. However you do not have to be so
rude in your reply saying that I would have seen something had I had the
courtesy to follow instructions, especially when I had never been given
any instructions in the first place.
Thank you,
Spenser Nice
<Please, stop... when you click on "asking a query", this screen comes
up:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm
Stop wasting y/our time. Bob F> SEXING RAMS
I have recently purchased 2 Blue Ram Cichlids (Microgeophagus Ramirezi) and
I am looking at purchasing more depending on how they interact with the
rest of my fish. I would like to know if there is any way to tell the
sex of them and if so how. I would like to have an equal mix of male and
female. Thank you, Spenser Nice
< Sexing rams can be difficult. Most dwarf cichlids are sexually
dimorphic with the males usually being larger and more colorful, but
rams don't follow this pattern. Male rams are usually larger than the
females. Some female rams have pink bellies, but not all the time. On
the side of wild rams there is a black spot. Look closely at this site
with a flashlight from the side. Females usually have numerous
highlighted colored scales over this spot. Males usually don't have any
colored scales on this spot and it remains black. Many times rams are
imported from Asia and they are usually all the same sex. They can be
all males or all females. There are a strain of domesticated rams
referred to as German Rams that have darker markings over the front and
back of the fish.-Chuck>
SICK RAMS
Hi Chuck (or whoever reading this today)
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, those antibiotics are hard, if not
impossible, to get hold of here in the UK, but at least I had an idea what's
wrong with my fish and so I got an appropriate treatment (Octozin by Waterlife)
and now my fish are better -- the female is eating like a pig again. Hopefully
they will go back into breeding mode again.
Thanks again for your help, Golan.
< I am glad I was able to provide some help. Not all antibiotics are available
all over the world or are all called the same thing.-Chuck>
Rams problems
Hi there!
I have had a pair of Blue rams (Microgeophagus ramirezi) for a few months now
and lately something is wrong with both of them. I hope you can help. I'll
start with the male. After buying it I've noticed that one of his eyes wasn't
alright. At first I just noticed that it was smaller than the other one and
flatter too. Then I noticed that it doesn't have a pupil either.
The supporting evidence that this eye was "faulty" is that he only chases the
female if she's on the side of the good eye. The eye had the same colouration
of the other one, and even moved with the other one, but he is
definitely blind in that eye. Now the eye is getting swollen and also loses its
colouration. It looks as if it's about to pop out of its socket. I'm not sure
whether it's pop-eye, or whether it's just because it's bad and I don't want to
medicate without knowing for sure, as they don't like any chemicals (they even
react badly to 1/4 dose of Melafix). What do you
think?
As for the female, she has not eaten for the past few days. She would either
look at the food and then swim away or she would take something into her mouth,
chew, and then spit. She does come up for food when I approach the tank. I
have tried any possible food I could get my hands on: from live food (blood
worms and brine shrimps) to flakes, to cichlid pellets, to granular food...
nada.
Both fish colours are intense, their fins are erected, the interact with each
other, and until about a week ago they were displaying breeding behaviour
(cleaning of a spot together, chasing the Corys away from that spot) for few
days, but then it stopped. They did that twice in the past, but got more
serious every time, so I figured out they were still practicing.
The male's symptoms started when they were still preparing to breed, while the
female stopped eating about the time that they stopped preparing.
Background information:
Ammonia, nitrites: 0ppm
Nitrates: 5 - 10ppm
pH: 6.4
KH: 2.5 dKH
GH: 4.5 dGH
temp: 26.5 - 27c
96 litres tank
tank mate: 7 Corys
I use R/O water (with R/O right) for water changes, and I change 10% of the
water every other day because I add co2 and I don't want to have a big change in
pH. I feed mostly with live food. The water parameters have been
consistent and the only problem lately was when my heater stopped working at
night and the water temp went down to 24.5c and I immediately got a new heater
and raised the temp again slowly. This, however, happened after they started
showing the symptoms, so I don't think it has anything to do with it. I'm sorry
that this has been a long one, but I've tried giving as much information as
possible.
Many thanks in advance,
Golan.
< These internal bacterial infections are often caused by stress. Some fish
break down when the water gets too hot. Your rams really don't like it when the
water gets too cold as when you heater went out. Treat them with Metronidazole.
If none is available then try Nitrofuranace at double the dosage. When they
start to eat again then they are on there way to recovering. The Nitrofuranace
will color the water green and is not as effective as the Metronidazole.-Chuck>
Blue/Gold Rams
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Adam>
My name is Adam and I had some questions about rams. First off I have a 125
gal. tank @ 78 F with a few large iridescent sharks, African butterfly fish,
hi-fin bullsharks, redtail and rainbow sharks, silver dollars, black ghost
knife, and a few common Plecos. I just today did a water test to find that I
have a ph of 8.4, very hard water and 200+ ppm of nitrate.
<Yikes... the hardness not a concern for your minnow shark species... but the
Dollars, Plecos and Rams prefer much softer. I'd be checking your nitrate test
kit... 200 ppm is about ten times past toxic.>
I just need to know what the best way is/are to fix all the problems I have with
the water spec.s as applied to the preferences of blue and gold rams.
<Better to keep them in a tank without the more "outgoing" species above... and
to start with cleaner source water... likely from a reverse osmosis device,
though you could use an in-line treatment tool... and then to treat this water
either with peat, a chemical prep., or with a system with live plants... before
using>
What kind of live plants are good for rams and their ideal water conditions?
<Others found in the same habitat, that enjoy soft, acidic, warm water... the
specifics of the more readily available aquarium plants are listed on
www.WetWebMedia.com>
Will Amazon sword work?
<Yes>
How do peat granules in the filter work and are there any side effects to the
water?
<The humic acids, other organics that are the peat counteract, neutralize
carbonates... do effect the water... making it softer, more acidic, often yellow
to light-brown in color>
If I use a co2 fertilization system will that also effect my water quality, and
is this a good idea?
<Will, and yes... will lower pH, hardness, boost plant growth>
Is there a difference in hardiness between blue and gold rams?
<Sometimes yes... either can be hardier or not... depending on source (the
"German" Blue Rams are very tough for instance, but the ones out of the orient
often die easily)>
And lastly, can the fish I listed above handle all the water conditions needed
to keep healthy rams? If not, just say so, I would love to have rams in my tank
but if I can't so be it.
<Better to NOT mix all the fishes you list above together... at least two
different tanks would be best... with one being for more outgoing, hard and
alkaline, cooler water... the other for easier going, soft, acidic, warmer
water. Bob Fenner>
Thank you so much for your time,
Adam Staude
Gold veil angel rams
I recently purchased 5 gold veil angel rams from my LFS.. they normally get them
twice a year and are gone as soon people realize the store has them in stock so
I decided to go on ahead and buy them even though they seem to have what looks
like as an internal parasite or tumors or something of the sort. besides.. at
this point I'm curious just to know what exactly is wrong with them and how to
properly treat them or if it's even at all possible to treat them.
the "tumors" as we'll call them are about 2-3mm in diameter, oval shaped and
brown or gray in color. you can see them through the body of the fish as they
are somewhat translucent. they don't show any signs of struggling.. they are
responsive to stimuli, they eat regularly and are all housed currently in a 5
gallon quarantine tank with no substrate and a sponge filter as you would find
in a fry tank.
they are currently being treated with a 1/4 teaspoon of paragon every other day
with a 2-3 gallon water change every fourth or sixth day. I've had them for
about a week and they don't seem to be getting any better, but they aren't
getting any worse either. I was wondering if this really could be a parasite or
infection and if I'm treating them with the proper medication. I have also
given them a salt bath using freshwater salt but could only do this for around a
minute or so before they were beginning to float on their sides.. I thought I
was sure to have killed a couple doing this but I quickly moved them back to the
5 gallon tank and to my surprise they all lived and returned back to their
normal state. if you have any suggestions I'd really appreciate it.. even some
background information on the fish would be great as I know they are relatively
new to the stores, or at least here on Oahu.. in fact.. this is the only LFS on
the island that ever gets them.. hence why I thought I may risk buying these
ones. I have called the LFS since to check about the rest of the fish to find
that they too aren't getting any better either.
< Many of these parasites that infest the body of the host are difficult to
treat because the tissues of the fish prevent the medication from getting to the
parasite. The other problem is when the parasite dies then this dead thing
starts to decay and rot inside the fish. Sometimes these things are parasites
that have numerous hosts. They start out in a snail and then invade a fish. The
fish gets eaten by a bird and excretes the eggs of the parasite that then
hatches and lives in a snail for a while and starts the cycle all over again. I
would quickly try and breed the rams and start a parasite free
generation.-Chuck>
thanks again
Jonathan
Keeping blue rams
Hi guys, hope all in well in your neck of the woods. I am really interested in
keeping the dwarf blue ram cichlids. I have been doing lots of research as they
are unlike anything else I keep. The tank I have available is an empty standard
29g (30"(L) x 12"(W) x 24"(H) I believe). I want to set it up right from the get
go so I don't have to start over. My tap water has a high pH of around 8.2.
What's the best way to keep this in the 5-6 range - that's what they need,
correct? I am getting conflicting information regarding using RO water, peat
moss, black water extract, etc...please help in this regard. What is the best
substrate for them? Regular aquarium gravel (large vs. small pebbles?) slate
rock, sand...?
How many can I comfortably keep in this size tank? I was thinking 4 would be
sufficient, but I am worried about two pairing off and harassing the others. Is
it best to have a planted tank (IE, live plants)? I was hoping I could keep live
plants and driftwood in there to help the pH out. I realize they are somewhat
sensitive, but this would be a species only tank so I am more than willing to go
above and beyond to do the necessary things to keep them happy and healthy. What
kind of water change schedule do to recommend? I have been reading that some
people do small changes (10% or so) once a week to maintain water quality, and
others say the more they mess with it, the worse off they are. So they keep it
lightly stocked, heavily planted, and leave it for a month or two at a time. I
am used to doing water changes on my other tanks every 2 weeks or so, so months
on end w/out water changes would seem like neglect! What's your take on this?
Any other tidbits you can throw in would be
great too. Thanks a bunch!
< You are talking about one of my favorite fishes of all time. In the wild these
little guys come from the open savannah areas of Venezuela and Colombia. You
really have to look hard to find wild rams these days. Most of the time they are
being bred in Asia. There is a variety also called the German Ram that is a
little more robust and carries a little more dark spotting then regular rams.
These are easier to take care of too. Overall the water should be warm around 80
to 82 degrees. Water should be very clean. I would use an outside power filter
with a bio wheel like a penguin 170 and a reliable heater that won't stick. Sand
would be better than gravel. Good food is essential to get them to show off
their colors. A good florescent light bulb would really get them glowing. If you
just want to keep them alive then I would start off by mixing 1/2 of your tap
water with 1/2 distilled water and checking the pH and alkalinity. Try and get
the pH to at least 7 to prevent problems. You may need to use a buffer from
either Kent or SeaChem to get the ph down to 6. If you want to breed them then
you really need to soften the water and get the pH in the 6 range. When you use
an RO unit that takes out all the minerals in the water then you have to use
less chemicals to bring the pH down to 6 and then stabilize it so it won't
continue to drop. For the little bit you are going to need I would get it at a
local water store that has already done it for you. If you want to breed the
rams then you need to know how to sex them. In general the males are larger and
have a black spot on the flanks. If you look at that spot in the sun or with a
flashlight you will notice that the black spot is void of the metallic blue
scales that cover the rest of the sides of the fish
. Females are smaller and may have a reddish hue to the belly area. If you look
at the black spot on a females side then you will notice that there are a few
highlighted blue to purplish scales on that black spot. When they pair up they
usually lay their eggs out in the open on a rock or on the glass and chase all
the other fish away. The eggs will hatch in three days and the fry will become
free swimming in another three days. Now the problem comes in. Baby rams are too
small for newly hatched brine shrimp so they must be feed the tiniest of foods
for the first week. After that they should be removed or the parents may eat
them. Regulate your water changes by checking the nitrates. Rams like very clean
water and there should be zero ammonia and nitrites. The nitrates should not get
above 15 ppm. Driftwood would be great but some plants will not like the higher
temps but you should try some of the more hardy plants anyway.-Chuck>
Rams and Water Chemistry
I have begun cycling a tank for rams, I wish to breed a pair in a species
tank(10 gal.).
<Sounds like fun!>
I understand their need for a certain water chemistry, but I would like to know
"non-chemical" methods for maintaining or correcting chemistry.
<There are a few, and it will depend, of course, on your current water chemistry
- what pH, GH, KH comes out of your tap. Since you're asking about rams, I feel
safe in assuming you wish to lower the pH and alkalinity. My own preferred
method is to use peat moss in the filter, and bogwood in the tank. The tannic
acids released from these will keep the water soft and acidic, and do a very
good job of it, too. I use this for my plant tank, which I keep at a pH of
6.2. Out of the tap, my water sometimes has a pH of 9.4 - with peat and bogwood
alone, I bring it down to 7.0, and then the CO2 I add for the plants gets me to
a happy and stable 6.2. The only "drawback" to peat and/or bogwood is that it
will stain the water a rich tea color. Frankly, I like and want this, as it
looks more natural in a planted aquarium.>
Also, what is R/O water? I have seen this in several ram forums, and am not sure
what it stands for.
<And here you have hit on another method of getting the pH and alkalinity that
you want. RO water is "Reverse Osmosis" water, a method of water purification
that leaves you with "just water", removing all the crud that is in tapwater,
from chlorines and chloramines to toxic metals. With this method, you will have
to add back the minerals that are stripped away which the fish need. There are
products available for this; I know SeaChem and Kent make some. Then you'll be
set with "just water" plus what the fish need in their water. From there, you
may have to add a buffer to raise the pH and KH to your desired level, if the RO
water is still too low. Don't use pH raising (or lowering) concoctions, as
these are very short-lived; without the proper buffering capacity of the water,
the pH will fall (or rise) back to where it is/was stable. If you need to alter
pH/KH after using RO, use one of the many buffering products available. Please
check out our FAQs for more on RO and RO/DI water: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/rofaqs.htm and
be sure to follow the blue links at the top for more.>
Any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again! April
Gurganus
<You bet. Hope all goes well with your rams! -Sabrina>
Rams inquiry
Hello. I'm writing this for my father who had a question re: rams. He has a
hard time keeping them alive...the tank is 82 degrees, pH 7, frequent water
changes, other fish include cardinal tetra, discus, and angels. Is the problem
the pH?
Thanks
Shahrzad Patterson
<A lot of folks have trouble with cultured rams (Microgeophagus)... disparate
sources often cite pH "shock" and simply too hard, alkaline water as a principal
contributing factor. The pH of the water they are naturally from is listed at
5-6.0... some ten to a hundred times lower (the pH scale is base ten
logarithmic), and warmer (27-30 C.) and likely softer (dH of 5-10) than your
friends... this would be an area I would adjust in an effort to maintain this
fish... though you may well find that your (intermittent, short-term) supplier
is maintaining them in much more alkaline conditions. Otherwise, I assure you,
as an old-timer in the pet-fish trade, that shipments of this fish vary GREATLY
in terms of hardiness time to time. So, waiting, observing new arrivals for a
week or so may also make a/the difference in their survivability. Bob Fenner>
Like A Rock... actually a Ram
Hey Bob,
Had a big success that I had to share....at least it's big to me.
For the past couple of months I have had one female Ram in my planted tank. I've
been patient waiting for some decent males to show up at the LFS. I finally
brought a couple home a week and a half ago.
<One of my fave fish species>
This evening I was doing my usual spot check and noticed that the female had
laid about 250 - 300 eggs on a hollowed out portion of a piece of bogwood right
at the front tank panel. The male and female are taking turns fanning the eggs
and are violently chasing off all comers. The next several hours will be
interesting.
<Neat>
I raised the tank temp two days ago from 72 to 74. Have been adding Ketapang and
Blackwater every week. Didn't think Rams bred so easily.
<Didn't used to years back... but now much more facile... due to
conditioning/selection of a few successive captive generations. Bob Fenner>
Dave
Mysterious Rams!
Dear Crew,
Greetings from Blighty! In my lovely freshwater tank (240l, ph 6.5-7, nitrates
0, v. low alk) we have finally added 3 Rams, on the advice of the LFS we bought
what we thought were 1 male and 2 females....however...it has since turned out
to be 2 lads and 1 lass, as the boys have been fighting, so, back to the LFS we
went with boy1 (sadly missing a couple of scales) to return with what we were
promised was a girl
<Mmm, am surprised to find so much damage with this species in such a sized
system...>
...but having put her/him into our tank, she coloured up lovely and turned out
to be...(can you guess!)
another boy, intent on chasing boy2, so that he is also missing a couple of
scales. So we will be taking him back to the LFS as soon as humanly possible. Is
there a fool proof way of telling the difference?
<More "fool proof" when Microgeophagus spp. are larger... the size, color,
morphological (particularly the first few spines of the dorsal fins being
longer)... are discernible sexual characteristics>
and is there anything we can do to help boy2's wounds heal more quickly?
Concerned and amazed by my feisty fish. Nicola
<There are chemicals that can/could be used (administered to treatment water as
dips/baths, introduced in foods, even injected in cases where the specimens are
severely debilitated or valuable), but I would do nothing other than keep the
specimen/s in ideal, stable conditions... soft, acidic water, not-too brightly
lit... well-fed, and they should recover nicely.>
Nicola Blay, BSc, MSc
International Zoo Veterinary Group
Keighley Business Centre
South Street, Keighley
West Yorkshire, BD21 1AG UK
<Oh! BTW, these fishes are sometimes treated with androgens, producing what
appear to be males (with elevated agonistic behavior), but may well be
genetically females... This is a long-standing practice with a few
species/groups of fishes coming out of the orient (though the fishes originate
elsewhere)... to "boost sales", provide "pairs" to human customers... I mention
this to encourage you to seek your Rams from more than one source (perhaps a
local breeder). Bob Fenner, phenotypically a male and a real one as well>
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