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Eel on Diver's Den. Muraena ID, comp. 12/20/08 Hi Crew, and Happy Holidays <Hello Kirk.> Diver's Den has had what they term a "West-African Horned Baby Moray Eel" (7 inches, but they have had it over a month), they are saying Muraena melanotis <Correct, I've seen this species on this page.> which if I am not mistaken is typically the Brazilian Dragon Moray? <No, these are mostly Muraena pavonina, a much smaller species. The name Brazilian dragon moray has been used for M. melanotis in the past, too, a typical problem with common names. I am aware there is an awful lot of misinformation on this group of Muraena species (M. pavonina, M. melanotis, M. retifera and even M. lentiginosa) in hobby and even scientific literature (even Michael, Debelius?). Let me know if there are any questions on their ID or taxonomic status, I've dealt with them in detail in the past and still keep M. pavonina.> Do you think this would make a decent community Moray? <Hehe? no. They get well over 1 m and as thick as a strong arm. Really voracious eaters when settled in and healthy. Think of them as being quite similar to G. favagineus or G. undulatus in terms of character, basically its the same ecological niche this species fills in the tropical, mostly Eastern Atlantic.> I have a 8 foot 240 with the following...Sohal Tang, Asfur and Coral Beauty, Sunset Wrasse & Harlequin Tusk, Sargassum & Redtooth Triggers. The Coral Beauty might be a worry as the Eel grows older (I could put him in my other tank), other than that do you think this Eel would work? I have heard favorable results with the Brazilians in "aggressive community set-ups". <With M. melanotis, the possible loss of the sunset wrasse and the coral beauty is obvious. But even the larger fish may be bitten, ripped apart. I cannot completely exclude it might work, it depends a lot on the temper of this specific eel, but I would not be willing to take the risk.> Would I be better off to look for a Jeweled Moray (Muraena lentiginosa)? <Yes, MUCH better.> I am still a little confused on the difference between melanotis and lentiginosa as I have gotten conflicting info. <Yes, I've been there. M. lentiginosa has smaller hornlike rear nasal tubes, its yellow spots are bordered by a dark rim and it has tiny hair like structures on the top of its head. M. melanotis has white spots on a dark grey background and the longer horns are generally more white (due to white spots) than black. If you still feel unsure you, can always send a picture prior to purchase.> Appreciate any help, Kirk <One of my favourite topics. Cheers, Marco.> Moray IDs 12/11/08 Hi, two moray IDs that should be corrected are found at http://www.wetwebmedia.com/morays.htm At Muraena lentiginosa, picture http://www.wetwebmedia.com/EelPIX/Moray%20Eels/SmallMorayGALVert2.JPG definitely shows a juvenile Muraena argus. At Muraena retifera the picture clearly shows a Muraena pavonina (often confused in literature, too). Cheers, Marco. <Thank you Marco. Will correct. Bob Fenner> Demon Green Wolf Eel... moray? Not the Pseudochromid/Congrogadid 12/11/08 Hello, <Hi Ralph.> I hope you are all doing well and enjoying the Holiday season. I have done quite a bit of research and was hoping you might have some suggestions for me. I have a Green Wolf Eel that I rescued from a friend who had it in too small of a tank. I have relocated him to a 55 that I had up and running sitting empty. He is doing fine eating well, perhaps a bit too well. I have tried to add other fish to the tank with no luck at all. I made sure he was fed and the light were off in the tank and his snack list is costing a small fortune. Several various damsels from 3 stripe, domino and inch long Sgt. Majors. They lasted less than 5 minutes. He was able to take out an Atlantic spiny puffer in a week and even did in 2 different lion fish. He is relentless with hermits, takes chunks out of Chocolate Chip Starfish and if you blink any species of shrimp is gone. Ok well I have not tried a Mantis Shrimp yet but you see my problem. Any suggestions on what I might be able to try in there with him that might stand a chance of living a bit longer than a week? I have quite a bit of rockwork and a clear PVC tube that he sometimes likes to hide inside. I know I could relocate him to another tank, stock the 55 and then place him back in the 55 after the other fish have settled but wanted to know if perhaps there were any other options. Certainly the cost is adding up. I was thinking of a Niger Trigger but after he took out the puffer and lion I was hesitant to add them. Thanks so Much and please be sure my Green Wolf Eel gets put on Santa's Naughty list. Ralph <Almost sounds like a Green moray eel, not a Wolf eel (Congradus sp.). The problem here is that recommendable fish large enough to be safe from the wolf eel would be too large for the 55 gallon tank. If you want to keep it with tank mates, I'd recommend setting up a significantly bigger tank with fishes too large to swallow and introduce the eel last. It also sounds as if your eel needs more food, generally Congradus eels are not that bad mannered. In larger tanks they can be kept in pairs or small groups, and have been bred in captivity. Cheers, Marco.> Help with identification please... Moray, and sel. 12/11/08 I have obtained a specimen of this eel, and would like to know what species it is. Is it Golden Dwarf Moray, or is it a Golden Tail Moray? <Where is the picture?> I am a little confused in looking at the illustrations/descriptions. <Easily told apart: G. melatremus has a bluish stripe through the eye.> What I really need to know, is how suitable this beauty is for my 120 gallon reef? <Is your tank eel-proof? Eels are escape artists and there must not be any unsecured holes in the tank (e.g. drainage the sump) or in the hood. If you don't have a hood, you'll likely need to apply a net or similar.> I have a Sailfin Tang, Hippo Tang, Flame Angel, as well as cleaner shrimp, coral banded shrimp, and snails. None of the fish are full-grown by a the means; pet store size. <Depends on the size of the eel and your fish. Both will most likely leave alone fish of about 1/3 of their own length and larger. The shrimps might be recognized as cleaners, if not (less likely) they'll become food. G. melatremus stays under a foot and will less likely cause any trouble, except maybe finding and feeding it in a 120 gallon tank in the first weeks (later the eel will find you at feeding time). G. miliaris grows to two feet and can eat small fishes, your tangs should be safe, but the Centropyge should better grow if you have this species of moray.> I would really like to keep this eel, but I surely cannot dedicate my whole tank to it. Also, I am sure it is important to keep them well fed. Does this mean feeding them individually somehow? <Yes, with a feeding stick, long tweezers or something similar. Feed a variety of unseasoned and uncooked sea food (shrimps, fish, mussel flesh, squid etc.) and use vitamins at least once a week. It cant live on the standard fish foods like flakes or too small types of frozen food. Please see here (and in the linked FAQs) for further info: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/morays.htm > I would greatly appreciate any advice. Best regards, Jeff or a <Something missing here? Greetings. Marco.> Banded moray = yellow head moray? - 09/17/08 Hello all! <Hi Chris.> I'm a bit confused here. I have seen several sites saying that the banded moray and the yellow head moray are the same eel, and wanted to confirm that this is true. <Ah, a common common names problem. What you notice is that a species can have several common names (see fishbase.org), and sometimes two species can have the same common name. Common names are also often different in different countries (e.g. Australia and USA). Therefore it is best to apply the scientific names to make clear which species you are referring to. Each species has just one valid scientific name consisting of two words, the genus and the species (e.g. Gymnothorax rueppelliae). When scientific names are changed due to new research results the old names are called synonyms.> I also have seen that some sites show what looks to be more like a fimbriated moray as a yellow head moray. <There are three species referred to as yellow head moray: G. fimbriatus (aka Fimbriated moray), G. rueppelliae (aka Rueppell's moray) and G. undulatus (aka Undulated moray, Greenheaded moray). There are more than three species referred to as banded moray, e.g. E. polyzona (aka Barred moray, Girdled moray), Gymnothorax rueppelliae (aka Yellowhead moray), Gymnothorax enigmaticus (aka Tiger moray).> All this has made me very confused because from what I understand these eels grow to be very different sizes. <Of course, these are many different species with many different sizes.> I also wanted to know about the banded moray photo Bob has on his eel information page. Do all banded morays get that blue color, and will one be able to live in a 75 gallon aquarium with an undulated triggerfish. <The one on http://www.wetwebmedia.com/morays.htm ? E. polyzona does get a greyish/brownish tinge with age and the stripes will fade away, but that will happen very slow in about 5-10 years when you start with a juvenile. A 75 gallon tank should be sufficient, if it is well filtered (!). An Undulated trigger is likely not a good tank mate, will bite the eel's tail and fin (depends a little on the individual and its origin, though). See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/triggers/balistapus/index.htm and the linked FAQs. With a potential adult size of one foot it's also better suited for a larger tank.> I hope my questions weren't too confusing, thanks. <Not at all. I hope this answer is clear enough.> Chris <Cheers, Marco.> Re: banded moray = yellow head moray? II - 09/18/08 Thank you for your quick response. <Welcome.> From the information you have given me the moray I am interested in, and from Bobs web page, is Rueppell's moray. I have never seen this in any of my LFS, but would it be suitable in a 75 gallon aquarium? <No. It is actually traded from time to time (sometimes erroneously labeled as E. polyzona) and likely can be ordered with some patience, but reaching 80 cm (32") I believe they are too big for a 75 g. Scott Michael lists 75 g as the minimum for this species, but having seen adult specimens in aquariums I'd say at least 90 very well filtered gallons without any other fish and preferably even a larger tank. It also has to be noted that this species can be particularly aggressive towards its keeper. Cheers, Marco.> Looking for an Eel Expert, ID, sel. 8/1/08 Hi Crew, <Hello Kirk.> I am a very confused on the difference between Muraena lentiginosa and pavonina. <They are frequently confused in the hobby and even scientific literature.> Fishbase and Live Aquaria lists lentiginosa as only getting to 2 feet long, a manageable size. <That information is correct.> Other sources list it as a fish eating monster topping out at 60 inches. <Fish eating: Yes; monster: No; size: max. 2 ft.> I would like to add an eel to my 8x2x2 (roughly 280 total gallons) "Aggressive tank", I of course don't want to lose any fish. <A zebra eel would be the best choice.> I had been considering the Brazilian Dragon (M. pavonina I think?), its tough to find much information on this guy as well, or the Goldentail Moray (Gymnothorax miliaris). Which one of the three (if any) of these would you recommend with fish? <I do keep/have kept all three of the listed species and would only recommend the Goldentail moray for your project. The Brazilian Dragon (Muraena pavonina) gets significantly larger (about 70 cm, 28") than indicated by fishbase (51,2 cm, 20") and is the most aggressive moray species I have ever kept (I do have 2 of them at the moment). In my opinion they are best kept alone in single specimen tanks. M. lentiginosa is not that aggressive, but still more than the G. miliaris. Remember, even the G. miliaris is a predator that can eat any fish to about 1/4-1/3 of its own length. So your other fish should be larger.> Tank mates would be Coral Beauty (big one) and Black Velvet Angel, Red Tooth and Sargassum Trigger, Harlequin Tusk and Sunset Wrasse as well as my most recent and final (other than an eel) addition a young Sohal Tang. I have kept a Snowflake and Zebra Eel for many years in another tank, just looking for something different to keep. <The fish-eating morays are a definitely different experience, but a Zebra eel is certainly the most safe moray choice for fishy tank mates.> Thanks for any help, Kirk . <Welcome! Cheers, Marco.> Dragon Moray ID - 07/26/08 Hello there, <Hi Pat.> I've done quite an extensive search, both on and off your site, and can't seem to find the information I am looking for. I am currently looking at a specimen labeled Japanese Dragon Moray...it is certainly E. pardalis; my question is in regards to geographic, gender and size related influences on coloration. The myth seems to be that Japanese examples are better colored than their Hawaiian counterparts, males are more colorful than females, and that there is some variation in color throughout the life cycle of these animals. What I cannot find is any concrete information, only scattered sources of hear say. <The myth is posted on WWM: "Sometimes the Japanese specimens have more white and red, larger spots and more contrasting colors, but such specimens may also occur in other areas, like Johnston island (see fishbase) or Kona. The Hawaiian ones regularly have more orange and less contrast, but I have seen absolutely comparable ones from Taiwan and Southern Japan. Have a look at fishbase or flickr for dragon morays/Enchelycore pardalis. The people publishing there have often noted where the eels were photographed, and in contrast to the fish trader had no reason to lie. There is no scientifically proven way to differentiate a Japanese E. pardalis from a Hawaiian E. pardalis. The same can be said about the gender of these eels, any definite proof for differentiation is lacking."> The animal I am looking at has a mostly rust red body with typical white spots, a nice orange/red/white head and chin and is roughly 20" or so in length. Is there anyone there with specific expertise? <Sorry, no reliable study has ever been done on this topic. So far you'll only get hear say.> Thanks in advance, Pat. <Cheers, Marco.>
Viper moray care, ID - 01/07/2008 Hey guys, Sam again. <Hi Sam.> My LFS just got in a young viper moray <Nice.> and I'm positive on what it is, but I can't find any FAQs about its care. I'm pretty sure they don't get too big. <How did you come to that conclusion?> Anyways, I was wondering about its care and if I could keep it with my G. tile. <Unlikely. Basically all morays referred to as Viper moray (maybe one smaller exception see below) will try to eat your G. tile as adults.> If not that's fine I'm willing to set up a larger species tank. Any info would be extremely helpful. <First you should try to find out what species it is. Several morays are called Viper moray in trade. Enchelycore nigricans is known under this name, can get to almost 3 feet, care is similar to the Dragon moray (see WWM re). Enchelynassa canina has also entered the trade as Viper moray. It reaches almost 5 ft and consequently needs something like 180 gallons for itself as an adult. Other Enchelycore spp. have been called Viper moray, too, they all have elongated tubes as anterior nostrils, while the Enchelynassa has 2 flaps at each nostril. Enchelycore carychoa is the only one I know that has been traded that's smaller than 2 ft, it can be recognized by white spots around the pores at its upper an lower jaw, but it's usually called Chestnut moray. If you can mail a picture of the head and maybe the body we could help you to ID this eel.> Thanks for your time, Fischer. <You are welcome. Marco.> Viper Moray - follow up... ID - 01/09/2008 I couldn't get a picture of the eel from the pet store (cameras messed up) but I did find a pic of what it is and I'm pretty sure he's a Chestnut. <The picture (think it is copyrighted and don't believe we can post it in the dailies) shows a Chestnut E. carychoa. It can be distinguished from other "Viper morays" by the white spots around the pores on the upper and lower jaw. No white patches, but nice spots limited to the pores just like in the picture you sent.> Right now its about 12" and idk <what does that abbreviate? I do know or I don' know?> how much bigger he'll get. <Not much. Will stop below 15" if it is a Chestnut moray.> Anyways thanks for your help and any info about the chestnut would be great. <The most adequate of the Enchelycore species for home aquariums in my opinion. Care is similar to other moray eels. However, it will eat fishes and crustaceans small enough to swallow. This species can even be kept with other (not too large or too small eels). In case you want it, let the staff show you that it eats prior to buying it.> Thanks again, Sam <Welcome. Marco.> Moray eel ID - 01/06/2008 Hello WWM crew. <Hi Sam.> I've had a moray for about a year or so now and I'm still not positive on the species. His body shape is pretty close to that of Gymnothorax nebulosa <Personally I think the shape of the head is really different.> but his coloration is a lot different. His (or her) body is a chocolate brown with golden flecks (or spots) and he is a lot more active and aggressive than a snowflake I had before. <Gymnothorax tile. Often sold as a freshwater fish, very good your specimen is in a marine tank.> I would like to know what species he is and what size tank he needs, he is currently in my 55 gallon soon to be moved to 100. <Have a look here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I2/Freshwater_eels/freshwater_eels.htm. The ones shown in the article are older and have less golden spots than your moray.> Also what other morays could I keep him with <Same species works very well in my experience if introduced to the tank together. Gymnothorax polyuranodon works well, too. I would not try much more heavy species like G. eurostus, species with big heads like G. saxicola or meanies like the various dragon morays, even if some attain a similar size.> and if any and what advice would you give me for future care. <Varied diet, sometimes with vitamins, good water quality, fitting lid, no dangerous predators and you'll probably have this eel for more than 10 years.> I know your very busy but it would help if you could answer some of my questions. Thank you for your time, Sam Fischer. <No problem. Please write back if the link above leaves any questions unanswered. Cheers, Marco.>
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