My Lovely Fury, Or How I Fell In Love With An Oscar, hlth.    3/15/12
Hi All, first I would like to say I come here first to get questions answered, but this is my first time directly asking one. Okay, system info,
I have a standard 100 gallon tank that has been up and running for well over a year.
Filtration:
Cascade 1000 Canister filter
Aquaclear 70
Marineland 350 bio-wheel-run with bio-wheel only.
<Good to have all three here>
And a medium sized powerhead pointed down to push all that lovely large Oscar poop into the filters.
<Hope no one's eating while reading>
Current Water Parameters:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 5
PH: 7.8
Fury's Tankmates:
Diesel-4 and half inch Jack Dempsey
Daisy- 4" Green Terror
Mo and Curlie- 5" Bala Sharks
Moose and Minnie- 10" and 4" Plec and Gibbi respectively
Ein and Stein- 4" Clown Loaches
Okay, now on to the actual question! I have batting an unknown pathogen for the past couple of weeks and have done two MASSIVE water changes to combat it. The first was 90% and the second was 98%. I noticed a raised disk of white on Diesel, and a lot of scratching and hiding. I also noticed white stringy poo on everybody, so my first line of treatment was Tetra Parasite Guard, Which also has metrodonozole  to prevent secondary infections. So I treated and also salt-dipped Diesel, and the whole tank minus the clowns and Fury, my sweet baby. 48 hours later, first massive water change.
Armageddon!
Everyone is on the floor, covered in the disks of white, Fury is floating on the surface almost dead, I am in tears, thinking I have nuked my whole tank.
Waited 2 hours and tested my water, and SURPRISE! Ammonia is 5ppm!
<Yeeikes!>
 So I tested my tap and it is 2ppm ammo. Okay, so time for a mad dash to the PETCo for some Safestart. Got it, added it, plus triple dose of Prime, ammo came down to zero. Whew! Disaster averted! Fish are STILL covered in white disks and now, white strings. Fury, my poor sweet baby, is scraping her skin off.
So, screw the fancy stuff, back to the basics! Quick Cure. I am still using it up to this morning and am only seeming to control the parasites, because if I do a water change and remove it, the parasites pop back on the fish. Learned that after the second, larger change with RO/DI water . And when I do a water change, I do a complete system break down. Gravel vac, filter clean in tank water, ornament scrub. I have tried soaking my ornaments in a concentrated solution of the Quick Cure all to no avail.
What should I do?
<I really don't know... W/o microscopic examination of the feces, the white disc area/slime... there's no way to determine what the root cause/s may be here. I would (re) administer the Metronidazole (orally)... see WWM re... and likely add an Anthelminthic (my choice, Prazi/quantel)... for whatever worm-wise this might be. Do keep us abreast of events, your efforts. Bob Fenner>
Re: My Lovely Fury, Or How I Fell In Love With An Oscar     3/16/12
Thanks for the quick reply! Things are getting better, as long as I keep the Quick Cure in the system, everything seems to be alright. The clowns have recovered and everyone is again eating, and fecal material is slowly returning to normal. I might also add that my local area is experiencing an extreme drought and my lake has experienced an 80% native fish and fishery fish loss due to a blue-green algae outbreak,
<Worrisome... some can exude very toxic chemicals>
 and we are under a boil water order.
<I'd be storing... perhaps bleaching and dechlorinating water ahead of use>
 I am trying to feed really small, frequent meals to help everyone build their strength back up. I feed Hikari Cichlid gold, New Life Spectrum, Tetra Cichlid sticks, and freeze dried river shrimp. I have no idea where this problem came from, but it is killing me to see my babies suffering.
<Almost assuredly environmental...>
 I change 50% at least once a week, and test all parameters twice a month. I have not added a new fish in almost six months. If this continues, I may have to sacrifice a specimen to find out a root cause to be able to save my lovely fire Oscar, Fury. Her flank patterning really looks like fire, and she has the personality to match. Praziquantel is the active ingredient in Tetra Parasite Guard, by the way, and I soaked their food in it as well as treated the water.
<Again, I doubt if this problem is pathogenic, biological... I'd use carbon, perhaps PolyFilter in your circulation pathway. Bob Fenner>
Re: My Lovely Fury, Or How I Fell In Love With An Oscar   3/19/12
I am so sorry to bother you guys again, but my situation is taking a tailspin. I added carbon to pull any toxins and took a water sample to my local college bio lab, tank and tap, and I have a nightmare. My nitrate is coming out of the tap at 75ppm, Ammonia at 3ppm , nitrite at 4 ppm.
<Woe, woe, woe, whoa! Not safe to drink let alone pet fish>
 My tank is testing at- ammonia-0, nitrite-0, nitrate-80.
<Much too much NO3>
I am in tears because I can afford an RO/DI unit to bring my tap down to make an effective water change.
<I think you mean/t can't>
What do you think is the smallest water change I could make with distilled water from Wal-mart,
<Nah, much too expensive>
 that would make the biggest punch?
<Chemical contactors... media to remove. See WWM re... the search tool>
Also, of course, with nitrates this high, my fight against my Protozoal parasite isn't going well, so I pulled out the big guns and added 250mg of metro per ten gallons this morning and re-dosed the malachite green and formalin as the carbon had pulled it all out. I removed the carbon as well, of course. Daisy, my green terror, is now taking potshots at Fury when she is scratching, literally pinging her off the glass. I have never been so heartbroken.......
<... these need to be separated. Now. BobF>

Oscar fish   8/21/11
My Oscar's eyes are sticking out of his head more than normal, is this a disease.
<Yes. Pop-eye is a related condition where the eye has been sufficiently damaged that infection behind the eyeball causes swelling. Treatment is largely "wait and see" plus the use of Epsom salt, and optionally,
antibiotics. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwpopeyefaqs.htm
If one eye is damaged or popping, that's commonly physical damage, e.g., by clumsy netting or a frightened fish bumping into the walls of the tank. If both eyes are damaged or popping, that's often to do with poor water quality. Either way, Pop-eye is extremely common when Oscars are kept in poor conditions, typically tanks that are too small, too few water changes, poor filtration. Do read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/oscars.htm
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Oscar fish   8/21/11
Is popping eye a deadly disease?
<As stated in my last message, in Oscars, it is usually an indication of chronically poor environmental conditions. Without knowing anything else about your aquarium, that would be assumption here. So yes, it's a sign the Oscar is in very poor health, and without fixing both the environment AND treating the symptoms, the Oscar could well die. Not from the Popeye, but from other infections and stresses brought on by the poor environmental conditions. Sadly, this is all too common with Oscars because people keep
them in tanks that are too small, feed them too much, feed them the wrong foods (e.g., "feeder fish", Thiaminase-rich foods, not enough green foods), don't supply enough oxygen, don't do enough water changes. Cheers, Neale.>

Oscar fish... distressed in uncycled system     1/11/12
My fish is going crazy when i get close to the tank. He haven't eaten in 8 days. The levels or fine we put him in  a 55 gal 8 days ago.
<... this system isn't cycled. The chemistry here is the likely cause of this fish's troubles, troubled behavior>
 He cut himself going crazy on side of face. I don't  know what to do please help me.
                    Thank you.
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwbiofltfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Oscar resurrection!    1/21/12
Hey thanks for the help my Oscar is back to healthy in fact i hadn't seen it so active in a while :-)
<Glad you had such success! Cheers, Neale.>

Oscars... hlth., sys.,  – 4/4/10
Hello,
<Hello.>
I have tried everything but I am at a loss.
<I hope to help.>
I have two tiger Oscars they are about 4 or 5 years old now, one has always been very healthy and strong the larger of the two, the other has not.
<Is this a mated pair? Especially if it's not, there's a good possibility that the larger and stronger one is larger and stronger due to beating up the smaller, weaker one, who remains smaller and weaker because he's constantly stressed and beaten up. Especially in the small tank you had them in (way too small for two adult Oscars), the chances of one bullying the other are very strong.>
I had them in a 200 litre tank, which I cleaned 30% twice a week, the weaker one got HITH but I changed their diet ( I feed them a tablet cichlid food, shelled peas, greens, frozen shrimp/ bloodworm etc) and treated the tank and it went away. I have moved them both to a 360 Litre tank,
<Still really is marginal for two adult Oscars... I would hope to see two adults in something around 125 gallons, both for the volume it offers, and therefore, better dilution of waste, and for each to be able to establish a territory and lessen problems with fighting.>
I feed them the same way, I clean the tank 30% once to twice a week (is this enough?) I am treating the tank with my usual water conditioner and now a nitrate reducer as they are quite high.
<If you're using a Nitrate reducer, then you're not cleaning enough. You should augment your maintenance in such a way that Nitrate is below 20 at all times. This is where a larger tank would come into play -- more volume means less concentrated waste, lower Nitrates. Bigger, more frequent water changes would lower Nitrate.>
The weaker Oscar seems to be sick again! His ribs on one side are poking out, it doesn't look like swim bladder ,
<Are you sure it is his ribs? Could it possibly be some sort of obstruction which has caused food to "build up" in the digestive tract, creating a lump? Can you provide numbers on Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate in the tank? You're feeding a good variety of dried and wet foods, so I'm not thinking this issue is due to feeding, but could very well be due to water quality. I would get Nitrate to where it should be (mentioned above), and then add Epsom Salt to the tank in the amount of two tablespoons for every twenty gallons. This will aid in digestion and help with constipation, if that's what's going on. Overall, a system for two Oscars would be in the range of 125 gallons, employ filtration which turns the tank's volume over 8-10 times per hour, and large water changes would keep Nitrate below 20.>
he is swimming fine and eating fine, other than the one lumpy side he looks and acts like a healthy fish. Any ideas?
<I hope this helps. Please do write back if you have further questions.
If you do write back, would you mind attaching a photo of his "bad side?"
In any case, if this is swelling due to some sort of obstruction, hopefully the Epsom Salt will help him pass it. I would feed only the wet foods, and avoid feeding the dry foods, until this problem subsides. I'm sort of ruling out the idea that this lump is his ribs, but a photo would obviously help. What type of substrate are you using? I'm hoping this is just food, and not gravel.>
Tank you for your time
<Either a typo, or a funny pun! Either way, I'll leave it in... again, please write back if you have any more questions.
--Melinda>

Oscar with Swim Bladder problem 4/27/10 Hi, <Hi Stephan. Melinda with you here today.> I have a 3 year old, 8 inch Oscar <Should be larger by now, at least twelve inches. Can you please give details on this system? Tank size, stocking, filtration, and water parameters? When I read that the fish has failed to properly develop, I begin to worry about environment. Often, fish can deal with a poor environment for a long time, and then eventually succumb to its effects.> that I found standing on his head 2 days ago. <He certainly is in bad shape.> I came across your site in the course of my research about his ailment. From what I can discern it appears that he is having problems with his swim bladder, most likely caused by an obstruction in his stomach. <"Swim bladder," as you will see by reading on WWM, is a name for a group of symptoms often stemming from poor environment. An obstruction is one possible cause of his illness, but, also, without knowing details of this environment (Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate levels, for sure) an obstruction isn't the only possibility -- more information is needed here in order to determine the cause of his problem.> What started out as head standing has now gone into full on laying on his back. His stomach is even more swollen. <I see that he has an Oscar buddy. This makes me even more curious as to what Nitrate levels are in this tank.> I initially changed his water and added a little more salt. Then after reading your questions and answers went to the fish store and purchased Metro+ (Metronidazole) and have added it to the tank per instructions (1 capful per 10 gallons after a water change). <I would not use regular salt, because it's probably not going to help here. Epsom Salt might. I'd start with a tablespoon per five gallons to hopefully reduce swelling and clear any blockages in the digestive tract. The Metro is a good idea if you can determine that what's going on here is as a result of bacterial infection, but I always like to start with environment and work my way up to diagnoses which require strong medications.> I have also stopped feeding (he can't eat in his condition anyway, but his buddy still gets hungry). I'm on my second day of the Metro+ treatment. He seems better, but his stomach looks even more swollen. I've tried to massage his stomach in the hopes that it would help pass the obstruction but to no avail (he does seem to like the massage). <I would stop applying pressure to this area and administer the Epsom Salt. I would continue the Metro since you've begun using it. Do test daily to ensure your biological filter is not negatively affected. If you find that it is (Ammonia or Nitrite spikes will indicate this), then you'll need to do extra work to keep levels where they should be.> I can turn him upright and if I hold him he appears fine, but then when left on his own he turns back over. Can you recommend any other treatment? <Treatment and possible causes included above. Please do read on WWM re: Oscar care, and if you have any other questions, feel free to write back, and do make sure and include the information I requested.> Thank you, <You're welcome. Please do note on the page where you found our e-mail address, there is a list of the things we ask those writing in to do. One of them is to send small photos, no more than a few hundred KB, because large photos take up a lot of room in our inbox, potentially causing others' emails to be bounced back. If you do need to send more photos, please do limit their sizes.> Stephan <--Melinda>

Re: Oscar with Swim Bladder problem   4/28/10 Hi Melinda, <Hi Stephan.> Thank you for your help. <You're welcome.> I put in the Epsom salt (1 tablespoon per 5 gallons). I also took his buddy and moved him to a different tank. I've continued the Metro+ treatment as well. <Okay.> I changed out 1/3 of the water again today and put in more Epson salt to keep the ratio at the 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons. Was I supposed to put in more Epson salt on the second day or just keep the ratio consistent? <Nope, it can stay the same, unless you don't see improvement in a couple of days. If this is the case, I'd add extra -- another tablespoon per five gallons. However, I have read ahead in this e-mail, and I'm beginning to doubt this fish will improve without some major changes.> He seems a little better, but his stomach is still swollen. He still wants to lay on his back, but if I turn him over he's good for about 5 minutes before he goes on his back again. Should I be worried about his lack of eating? I don't see how I could get him to eat unless I forced something down his throat. <Don't worry about it right now. Fish can go quite a while.> The water is good, lots of filtration (a 60 gal filter system on a 30 gal tank). <You're not giving me the specific information I hoped for, but without knowing that information, I can still definitively state the following: One, this tank is WAY too small. Your Nitrate levels are likely through the roof. For two Oscars, 90 gallons would be the minimum I would recommend, with 125 gallons being ideal. Two, the reason your fish is smaller than he should be is definitely due to the system you've chosen for him, which is too small. He should be, as I stated before, anywhere from twelve to fourteen inches long. Three, filtration should be turning your tank's volume over eight to ten times per hour, so this filter probably isn't keeping up with the huge bioload two Oscars represent, especially two Oscars stuffed in a tiny tank. Lastly, the fish's condition probably will not improve, no matter what you add to the water (Epsom Salt, Metro, etc.) until you fix environment. Please read, as I asked you to do before, on WWM re: Oscar care. These fish need much more than you're offering, and if you choose not to fix environment, the other will soon be sick, as well. Oscars aren't an easy fish to care for -- not because they have crazy nutritional needs, or are finicky about water chemistry, or anything, but simply because they grow so large and do require quite a large investment, a lot of space, and a good deal of electricity to properly house and care for. Oscars who don't receive proper care die very early, and even if they pull through for a good length of time, often exhibit the symptoms you're describing, along with the Hole-In-The-Head your Oscar's buddy seems to be exhibiting. Please do research HITH on WWM.><<Melinda... pls provide links/URLs... RMF>> Do you have any other treatment suggestions? <Not treatment, per se, but my suggestions are above.> Thank you, <You're welcome.> Stephan <--Melinda>

Oscar Fish Sick :(   6/2/10
Hi there, I'm Ashlea!
<Hello Ashlea,>
Our family has two Oscar fish.
<And a big aquarium, I hope. Oscars don't "share" nicely, and even a singleton needs a big aquarium.>
We bought the smaller one who is about 4inches long first and then another one which is about 6inches long. We have had them for only a few months now and have had issues the entire time.
<Almost certainly down to lack of planning. Let's be clear here. Oscars are NOT friends towards one another and they MUST have a big aquarium with a very robust filtration system. Yours are big enough now that they're starting to exhibit their social behaviour, and if you have two males, you'll get trouble.>
The smaller fish (Charlie) got fin rot which was medicated and treated
<Now, the Finrot is certainly down to poor water conditions; likely a too-small aquarium or too-weak filtration. Overfeeding and irregular water changes will also make things worse.>
and when we first got our bigger one (Grumpy) he would never move. They started in separate tanks but we put them together in a larger tank ( 250L approx ) about 2 weeks ago.
<250 litres IS NOT big enough for two Oscars. Indeed, it isn't enough for one Oscar. A single Oscar needs about 350 litres, and if you have a mated pair, you'd still need about 500 litres. Oscars are very difficult to sex, and it's entirely possible you don't have a pair.>
They haven't been fighting really, sometimes the bigger one with snap at the little one but that is all we have seen. Recently Charlie has been laying on the bottom of our tank on his side, he is breathing heavy, only moves when Grumpy comes near him, isn't eating and seems to be doing the tail shake to tell Grumpy to go away.
<Difficult to say precisely what's the matter here, but a combination of aggression and environmental stress is likely the issue.>
We have just noticed a little white thing on his head, we aren't sure if this is hole in the head or another infection or what.....I am the eldest and have younger brothers who are all very attached to our fish.
<Cool.>
We do weekly water changes usually between 25-30% our pH level is 7.2 ammonia is at 0 nitrite is 0 nitrate is about 10
<Okay.>
Please help us, we have been reading the website all day and finding similar problems but it always seems to be older fish or poor water quality issues which we don't have either of because we test it twice a week
Thank you in advance!
<Something is amiss here. Frankly, I think you won't be able to keep two Oscars in an aquarium this small, and long-term, you're going to need a much bigger aquarium even for one specimen. Cheers, Neale.>

Dying tiger Oscar -- 01/12/2010
I've had my Oscar for about 2.5 years, for some reason his tank became overwhelmed with algae,
<Blue-green algae by any chance? Or hair algae? Either way, almost certainly down to marginal water quality, insufficient water changes, and inadequate water turnover.>
I tried using some Algicide-RX,
<Toxic... even though sold as safe, shouldn't really be used in tanks while the fish are in them.>
(because he keeps killing the algae eaters)
<These don't fix algae problems.>
and it seemed to get worse. Since yesterday he hasn't been acting right, now he has something like blood on the inside of his body building up around his fins and tail and he can't move his tail.
<Sounds like he's reacting badly to environmental conditions. Would do a 50% water change immediately, taking care not to expose the fish to dramatic changes in pH or temperature. Make sure the new water has water conditioner added to remove chlorine, chloramine, and copper (and ammonia, if there's some in your water supply).>
He has a little bit of a milky film on parts of him also.
<Mucous appears when fish are irritated; it's the equivalent of a rash on human skin.>
I have completely drained and clean the tank to start it over (as recommended by the local pet store).
<While a big water change is good, this assumes the filter isn't disturbed, and it's almost never a good idea to take a whole aquarium apart if you have fish already. At best, put some tank water in a bucket and keep the filter running -- once switched off, the filter bacteria can start to die in as little as 20 minutes if they don't get enough oxygen (canister filters are very bad in this regard).>
I don't know what to do and I really don't want him to die.
<Do review the basic needs of Astronotus ocellatus, here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebindex/oscars.htm
Most premature deaths come down to tanks that are too small, badly filtered, and improperly maintained. Poor diet is another key issue (avoid Goldfish and other feeders, unless you deliberately want to make your Oscar sick).>
Any help will be GREATLY APPRECIATED. thanks.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: dying tiger Oscars -- 01/12/2010
he should be back in his tank by the end of the night,
<Good.>
I added stress coat+ and dechlor.
<Ok. But do check if you have chloramine, and if so, use a dechlorinator that removes it: not all do.>
I also added some to the temporary tank. once the regular tank is up to temp then I'll put him in.
<Fine. By all means use hot water from the hot water tap, and mix with cold water. A good dechlorinator should remove copper, the only possible reason not to use hot water. Using hot and cold water speeds up bringing the tank temperature to the correct 25-28 C required by this species.>
What's his survival chance?
<No idea. Depends on how sick he is, whether he's been poisoned by the Algicide or stressed by the sudden change in environmental parameters.
Consider: when you suddenly kill all the algae in a tank, you suddenly load the filter with a lot of dead stuff to clean, and the decaying algae uses up oxygen as it rots. This is why you should NEVER use any kind of "killing potion" in an aquarium, whether for snails or algae. Much better to fix the underlying problems, and let algae and snail numbers decline naturally.>
the filter will have new filters also.
<But you won't be throwing out the cycled, mature biological filter media, will you? That would be mad. By all means replace mechanical media (e.g., filter floss) used to trap silt as often as you want, but biological media (e.g., sponges, ceramic noodles) should be used carefully, replacing no more than 50% within a 6 week period. If you think you've poisoned your tank, then this is one of the VERY FEW situations where using activated carbon alongside biological filtration makes sense.>
I have 10 gallons of the old water that he is in now, should I add that into the new water?
<Water carries little/no useful bacteria. So use, don't use, as you prefer.
Makes no difference at all. Actually, I'd throw ALL the old water out, and use completely new water, and then acclimate the Oscar to the new aquarium just as if you'd just purchased him. In other words, stick him in a bucket with just enough old water to cover him, and then add a cup or two of water from the tank every 5-10 minutes until the bucket is filled. I'd then half empty the bucket, and repeat the process. Once you're done, and this should take an hour or so, lift the fish and put it into the aquarium. Throw the old water away. Only LIVE FILTER MEDIA matters so far as restarting your aquarium goes, i.e., the sponges, ceramic noodles, or whatever used in your filtration system. Keep these alive by connecting the filter to bucket of aquarium water, and don't switch the filter off for more than 20 minutes.
Reconnect the filter to the aquarium ASAP.>
Thanks again. Louis
<Cheers, Neale.>

Scales are missing on Red Tiger Oscars 2/1/2010
Hi:
<Hello Denise,>
My son and daughter each have a small Red Tiger Oscar.
<Bad choices as pets for children. These are very difficult fish to keep properly.>
The Oscars are kept in separate 5 gallon tanks with filters.
<Insane. Make that 55 gallons for each tank, and we're talking.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebindex/oscars.htm
Five gallons is barely enough for a Betta, let alone an Oscar. Did you tell the pet store you were doing this? If they told you that was fine, then they're idiots. If it was your idea, and somehow you though they'd be fine for a while, then, well...>
They are fed 2 small gold fish feeders every other day and flakes on the other days.
<Did you read ANYTHING about Oscars before purchase? If you did, you'd known feeder Goldfish are a VERY BAD food item for Oscars. Not only are they a major source of parasites, they're also loaded with fat and Thiaminase.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fdgfdrartneale.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_1/thiaminase.htm
>
We have done the water changes and de-chlorinated the water. Lately we have been noticing that each of the Oscars seem to have white spots, but more like the scales are missing, not like Ick. I thought they may be scraping themselves on the gravel but we never see them do that and it is getting worse. Any ideas?
<Yes. You're killing these fish. Whether deliberately or through sheer ignorance, you've stuck two perfectly nice animals in enclosures they cannot possibly be maintained in, and then fed them the worst possible diet. So these lovely, intelligent animals are being poisoned to death.>
Thanks,
Denise F
<Denise, I really, really do not like yelling at people. And when people write back that their feelings are hurt because I've yelled at them, that's sad. I volunteer here precisely because I like fish and I like people. But
when I get messages like this, it's hard for me to return a measured, let alone kind, response. Not one aquarium book ever written would ever suggest keeping Oscars this way, so my only conclusion has to be you read nothing
at all before buying these animals. Given you haven't said anything about water quality, I have to assume you didn't cycle the tank for 6 weeks before adding the fish. So essentially everything that you could do wrong, you have done wrong. It's not the fish's fault, it's not the retailer's fault, and it's certainly not my fault; it's your fault. Time to read what I've sent you to, think about what you've done, and react accordingly.
These fish aren't going to survive these tanks, let alone get better.
Either return them or euthanise them.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/euthanasia.htm
If you want to keep them, you're going to need a 55 gallon tank for each one, or a 75-100 gallon tank for the two of them. Don't delude yourself into getting a 20 gallon tank now, and then saying you're going to upgrade in a couple months. These fish grow EXTREMELY fast when kept properly, and will need that 55 gallon tank within 6-9 months of hatching. So get real, focus on what needs to be done, and move on. Feel free to write back and
yell at me for being rude if that makes you feed better. But my concern here is for your fish, and the bad example it's setting your kids. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: scales are missing on Red Tiger Oscars, hlth., nutr.  – 02/02/10
Hello Neale:
<Hello Denise,>
My apologies for my ignorance. I did tell the pet store exactly my plans and purchased the Oscars at the same place. The same place I buy the feeders. Obviously they were either only concerned with the sale or they had less knowledge than I did.
<Well, you do have to treat advice from store clerks with caution. Some specialist retailers are staffed by outstanding fishkeepers, and I've learned a lot by listening to them. But all too often the generic pet stores employ staff who know little to nothing about fish. In general, take the advice, but double check against a book or a web site you can really trust.>
Many years ago, I too had an Oscar for many years, fed him feeder fish and never had a problem.
<It's like the old maxim, "playing Russian Roulette once and surviving doesn't make it safe". Work on predatory fish has demonstrated without any ambiguity that diets high in Thiaminase lead to ill health and premature mortality. Do read Marco Lichtenberger's piece here at WWM on this topic.
The incidence of parasite infections following the use of cheaply produced feeder fish is very high. Furthermore, goldfish and minnows are rich in both fat and Thiaminase, and Bob Fenner believes, after autopsies of numerous fish, that these feeder fish are the #1 cause of premature death of Lionfish. The #1 cause! These feeders are killing more Lionfish than bad water quality! Thankfully, feeder fish simply aren't sold in the UK, so this isn't an issue here. The hobby has moved on, and aquarists switched to safer, cheaper, and less expensive foods. But for whatever reason, the US market has changed yet.>
Never did the pet store say anything about having a 55 gallon tank, nor did they tell me about feeder fish being bad for them to eat.
<Not impressed by them, I have to say.>
Once we started noticing the problem. We immediately began the water changes every 3 days between 25 - 30%. We are now feeding them frozen, thawed shrimp and peas.
<Again, do go back and read about Thiaminase. Shrimp contains a lot of Thiaminase, and over time, over-use will lead to vitamin B1 deficiency. I'm sure you already know about how the Royal Navy was plagued with the problem
of scurvy back in the 18th century. The sailors were getting lots of calories, but for some reason would get sick within a few months of leaving harbour. The problem was that their diet, while adequate in other ways, lacked vitamin C. Over time this meant they became sick. Only with the introduction of citrus fruits into the sailors' rations did things improve (from whence comes the nickname for the British around the former Empire, "Limeys"). It's precisely the same thing here: shrimp, mussels, clams, squid and other Thiaminase-rich fish and seafood may contain lots of calories and protein, but they also contain Thiaminase, and over time, you're creating problems by using them. Restrict Thiaminase-rich foods to once or twice per week. The rest of the week should be made up of foods
that lack Thiaminase. These include good quality pellets (e.g., Hikari Cichlid Gold), earthworms, snails, fresh or frozen cockles, fresh or frozen tilapia fillet, and of course plant foods like cooked peas. Indeed, a perfectly adequate diet could be based around just good quality pellets plus the cooked peas to ensure adequate fibre.>
I have done a lot of reading over the past few days and the Oscars seem to be improving dramatically.
<Good.>
In addition we are currently looking into a 55 gal tank.
<That's fine for one Oscar; two will eventually fight in that space, unless by some miracle you have two females, or else a pair that get along from the word go.>
I thank you and appreciate your advice no matter how loud you were yelling.
<Glad to have helped. Good luck. Cheers, Neale.>

Please help me, help my mother's fish. Oscar hlth.  2/22/10
Hello,
<Hi,>
I have an issue, obviously considering if I didn't I wouldn't be writing.
<Well, you're honest at least!>
My mother has an aquarium which I believe to be a 75-90 or so gallons. She has two large Oscars (one is 11 1/2 inches and the second is smaller at 8 1/2) And a Plecostomus that's over a foot long.
<Yikes, that's a busy aquarium. Marginal water quality, I'm sure.>
That is all she has in the tank other her filter then decorations which she uses real stones, although they are large stones she uses smaller ones for the gravel and a few large ones for the decorations, no fake plants.
<That's fine - Oscars will uproot stuff, and Plecs aren't precisely delicate in their swimming movements. Large flowerpots are cheap and cheerful "caves" for fish like these.>
One is what I believe (thru research) to be an Albino Tiger Oscar (the larger one who is sick right now), breed from an Albino and a Tiger Oscar, the other I believe to be a Tiger Oscar (the smaller not sick one). My mother has had these fish for 5-6 years, and they have only grown about 2 inches in this period of time, so I am not sure how old they are.
<Size is about the going rate for these species.>
She got them from a friend who didn't want them any longer. She has had them in this specific tank for 4 years.
<OK.>
She doesn't use live or frozen foods, just pellets.
<Fine.>
She also never has to do water changes or treatments her tank is that healthy (well besides this issue).
<Never does water changes? How bizarre. You should be doing 25% water changes every week or two.>
And we are not sure of the sexes since they are hard to determine.
<You can't sex Oscars outside of breeding anyway.>
Just today she noticed her larger fish is sick, he/she has a swollen belly on both sides, and has a white/ clear sac looking thing coming out of the anus.
<Prolapse. Very common when cichlids are maintained in poor conditions.>
I've researched on your website and came to the conclusion to use Epsom salts for use of a treatment.
<It's not so much a treatment as something that minimises the symptoms. The digestive tract becomes swollen with bacteria or Protozoans, expands, and pushes out the anus. So while Epsom salts relax the muscles and allow the Prolapse to reduce somewhat, this doesn't fix the problem. You need the right medication, and then must also improve the water quality. So it's a two-step thing.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/metranidazole.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/OscarDisF8.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/oscars.htm
>
I called her to tell her this and how to do this (by your instructions) but then she was looking at the fish and its changing colors, its head is turning a greyish color and its fins are turning color from white to a vibrant yellow color!
<Likely some sort of systemic infection.>
They are not upside down, he isn't swimming sideways, he just sits with his face in the corner towards the top. The other fish is acting and eating normally. I noticed months ago that the fish had holes in there head (right off the bat thinking hole-in-head) but I read on it and these fish apparently do have holes in there head so we waited to see if I over-reacted.
<Oscars very, VERY commonly get Hole-in-the-Head, and it's related to poor water quality, especially non-zero nitrate levels. Any nitrate level above 20 mg/l will severely stress cichlids including Oscars.>
These holes haven't changed since then, which has been months. So now that it is changing colors I thought best to contact you. I know you have many people writing in about swelling bellies and things coming out of there anus, but not all of that and color changes!!
<Perhaps, but taken together this does strongly suggest poor water quality.>
There's bloat, but that's just the belly swelling, so I didn't think it was this. Then I was thinking prolapsed rectum, from reading the letter with the lady with a Oscar that had swollen belly and the anal issue, and color fading, but not changing color such as my issue. I'm really starting to get nervous, these fish mean a lot to me (although they are my mom's fish) they are what made me love fish and aquariums, I could stare at them for hours and not get bored. I almost think I love them more then my mother does.
<Despite what The Beatles said, Love is *not* all you need. Oscars need good water quality.>
So if you can help me please do. I appreciate you taking the time to read this. Also, not sure if this will get posted on the site or just an e-mail back please let me know. Thank you.
-Jennifer
<Happy to help. Cheers, Neale.>

Extremely Sick Oscar, env.  - 7/20/07
Hi!
I have read through pages and pages of the forum to find out what I can do for my Oscar. I am new to the Oscar world so bare with me.
<Heeee! Depends on how attractive you are>
I recently took over a tank with three Oscars in them. I have a 55 gallon tank with three Oscars. One is about 6 inches, the other two are 8 inches...big I know!
<Too large for this small volume...>
Okay this is where I am getting confused. Two of them are bright orange.. tiger Oscar? The biggest one...the sick one is mostly black but has orange on him. After reading the forums I am assuming he was once upon a time all orange.
<Mmm, not necessarily>
Now he is mostly black.
He has started laying on the bottom doing nothing and he can not swim up right at all. He is also developing white scales one side and whitish holes on his head. I can't get him to eat at all. He tries to swim to the top of the tank every once and a while to get food but can't make it up there. I have been feeding with Cichlid Staple floating pellets.
Others in the office I work with have been giving feeder fish to them as well but not all the time. Is this bad?
<Not a good idea. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/goldfshfd.htm>
Another problem I am treating right now is I have a sucker fish that has fungus on his belly. I have started treating for the fungus using Pimafix. The pet store also gave Melafix.
<Worthless>
I was reading in the forum that others have tried using Metronidazole?
<I would not use this protozoacide for anything but...>
Should I use this instead?
<No... you should read... On WWM, elsewhere re infectious disease... and most importantly, environmental issues>
I just want to see them feel better. It is said that the people before me let the tank get this bad. HELP!
Thanks so much
Andrea
<Likely the trouble is to a large extent an issue of the size of this system... a 55 is not large enough for just the two large Oscars... so the "odd fish out" is malaffected behaviorally... And physiologically... such a volume of water is hard to maintain health-wise with such large, messy fish... Likely your nitrates (see WWM re) are sky high... and this is a contributing cause to the Oscars beh. and the Pleco's "fungus"... Medicine won't help here... water changes, more filtration, and most importantly, a much larger system are needed. Bob Fenner>

Oscar Being Eaten Alive, env. dis.    2/20/07
Hi, I have searched the site for any reference to the problems our Oscar has been experiencing and found some answers that might be relevant (re lying on his side, eye problem etc) but nothing referring to the biggest issue that we are worried about - his flesh on his gill seems to be rotting away on the outside.
We live in England (just telling you this in case it's relevant for water purposes - our water isn't chlorinated in our area).  We have an Oscar we got about 4 months ago from a really good fish specialist locally.  He was about 4 inches long when we got him and is now about 7.5 inches long, which is about right based on the 1 inch growth per month ratio. Anyway, he is currently in a holding tank whilst we cycle the purpose built tank we have had made for him - the new tank is 6ft length x 2.5 ft high x 2ft wide. So lots of space for Brian (as he is known) to swim. We regularly change the water, have two filters and an air ball in the tank he is currently holding in (about 55/60 UK gal.). He has a varied diet (never feeder fish - Oscar pellets, krill, shrimp), a couple of toys & we try to interact with him as much as possible.  He has always been lively, coming to the tank for my boyfriend and I - he recognizes us that's for sure - doing his happy dance thing (e.g. begging for food!) and pottering about around the high part of the tank.
He did develop a problem with his eye - it got swollen and covered in a white film.  We tried to treat lots of ways - with medication, and adding aquarium salt to the water, which seems to have finally cleared it up and it is now getting better.  However, a few weeks back he got a hole in one of his outer gills and that has just grown in the last few days so now you can see the gill bits inside clearly - this has got to be affecting him surely e.g. his ability to 'breathe', it's like it is rotting away but we can't stop it.  The people in the fish tank said to keep trying different medications/methods with big water changes which we have been doing.  So, last week was the aquarium salt method, which has worked on the eye and we did a 50% water change following that treatment on Friday.  Then we fed him and he seemed totally normal - snatching food from the top of the tank and swimming around for us,  We went out of the room for a while then when I went in to turn off the tank lights for the night (as we always do) he was lying at the bottom of the tank, looking like he was dying.  Since then he has been very immobile, he seems like he can't move the fin on the side of the rotting gill very well and he's been lying at the bottom of the tank only moving briefly and facing into the glass, seeming to struggle to move around.
He seems very sensitive to light all of a sudden so we have mostly kept the tank lights off over the weekend.
We have really thought he was dying and were all ready to find a way to euthanize him as painlessly as possible because we don't want him to suffer but he's such a brilliant fish we want to keep trying as long as possible, so long as he isn't in pain or suffering.  However, having watched him struggle about on the bottom of the tank for 2 days, I went into the room he is currently in last night late and without thinking switched the overhead light on only to see him swimming around at the top of the tank, promptly dropping to the bottom when I went in.... so now I think we have a combination of a fish hat is poorly (because of the gill situation) and a drama queen who is having a tantrum about something (as Oscars do!) - possibly both things are connected. This morning I looked in on him before I went to work without putting the lights on and he was up and about again, albeit in the dark.  
For info, he fed on Friday, we didn't feed him on Saturday because he looked so poorly but tried a bit of food yesterday and he made some effort to get it but I don't know that he ate much at all.  I know they can survive a while without feed, just the current combination of problems is worrying me and my partner.  There are two silver dollars in with him awaiting transfer into the new tank too - they are about 2.5" diameter each - and a small Corydoras cat fish that cleans the bottom of the tank.  Yesterday I checked the water and the PH/nitrites were normal the nitrate was quite high so we did another water change of 20%.  I want to do another 30% tonight or tomorrow.  
If anyway can help with this gill rot situation we'd really appreciate it, because we are not sure what to try next but don't want to lose this fish unless we absolutely cannot do anything to help him.
Thanks, Giovanna Giovanna Ashcroft
< The problem is the high nitrates. Check the well water. Wells that draw from shallow aquifers often have high nitrates due to agricultural run off. These high nitrates stress the fish and feed the bacteria that cause the flesh to be eaten away. This is a common problem in agricultural areas. To remove the nitrates is not that easy. Reverse osmosis, deionization and distillation will reduce or remove nitrates. Plants are very effective at doing this too. Get the nitrates to under 20 ppm and treat with Nitrofurazone. This will stop the bacteria and the areas affected may grow back.-Chuck>

Oscars and a Lack of Input - 10/14/2005
My Oscars started getting a whitish build up on their bodies and then developed eye cloud. I've never dealt with this before. 
<Clouded eyes are usually related to poor environmental conditions.... Be testing your water quality, changing water....>
4 of my favorites have died. I've been treating them by increasing the aquatic salt level to 150%,
<150% of....?>
using MelaFix for 6 days,
<Unlikely to be of help - and certainly not of help if the root cause is environmental.>
and gave them their 2nd dose of Binox. 
<Learn what you are treating before you treat.... Throwing medications at systems without knowing what they are or what you are medicating for is quite dangerous. Binox is sodium chloride (salt) and Nitrofurazone (an antibiotic). Do you have reason to believe there is a bacterial infection that can be treated by this? If not, why are you medicating? Have you tested your water?>
My two large Oscars' eyes don't seem to be getting any better, but they're swimming around more and color has gotten better. However, no appetite. Do you have any suggestions? 
<Yes, test your water for pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate.... Maintain ammonia and nitrite at ZERO, nitrate less than 20ppm, with water changes.... Look for the root cause of the problem (likely water quality) and begin rectifying it.>
I don't want to lose them or have them go blind. Thank-you
<All the best, -Sabrina>

Oscar and environmental disease
my Oscar is fairly good size, he has been swimming frantically across the tank slamming into the sides and everything else in the tank. When he is not doing that he floats almost as if he is dead. I have him in a 55 gal tank. he has a yellow coloring along his belly and gills. There is also marks on his face from slamming into the rocks on the bottom and turning in circles. He acts as if he is going crazy..
>>Hello. Sorry to hear about your fish. We need to ask you some questions to help us help you. How many inches long is your Oscar? Are there any other fish in with him? Can you please give us some water test results. what are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels? Please be precise. This is important.
Also, how often to you do partial water changes? What exactly do you feed him, and how often do you vacuum the gravel?  -Gwen
he is approx. 10-11 inches long, 6-8 inches tall, there are other fish in the tank and they all seem to be doing fine. I had my water tested at the nitrate level was off the chart within a few seconds. So will the changing of say 50% of the water for the next 4 days be sufficient?
< Change enough of the water to bring the nitrates down to 25 ppm>
Will he beat this problem, or is he to far gone already?
< Cichlids , like Oscars are pretty tough customers. Get the nitrates down, service your filter and add some salt to the water to increase the slime coat on the fish. If he is still having problems then he may be suffering from a bacterial attack on his skin and gills. Look at a Furanace type of medication for treatment but watch out. It will probably kill the good bacteria in your filter too.>
I usually change 25% of the water once a month,
and the same goes with gravel vacuuming.
<Obviously this is not enough because your nitrate readings are off the chart. Get a good nitrate test kit and change enough water to keep the nitrates around 25 ppm. Don't let them get any higher than 50 ppm. This will help you determine how much water to change and how often. Don't forget to service your filter or your nitrates will come right back. -Chuck>

Saving poisoned Oscars
Hello WWM Crew,
I have a good sized pond in my garden where I have 4 good sized Oscars. I should say I HAD 4 Oscars.  3 were Tiger and 1 was Albino.  Last Sunday during the dressing of our garden, we moved our Christmas tree close to the pond.
As the pot in which the Christmas tree was very heavy, my family folks kept it on the pond sill. As it was a transplant from a smaller pot, we put anti weed in the pot and watered it.
<Oh oh...>
The next day, I was shocked to see that all my Oscars lying on their side on the pond floor. After quick investigation I realized that the anti-weed which is poisonous has flowed in the pond from the pot overflow.  I immediately started adding fresh water to the pond. I was able to save 2 Oscars but 2 died even before I realized the accident.  One tiger and one albino are alive but still quite sick. The tiger was lying on his side for a few hours but then started swimming. However at the end of the day, it sort of struggled and again went on its side as if it died. This continued for a few days but now he is back to swimming. The albino was on his side for almost 4-5 days and just breathing. He started swimming just a couple of days ago. however today he parked himself near one side of the pond and then slipped on his side. I thought he died too. But he is alive as he is slowly breathing.  Both of them refuse to eat and so I guess they have become too weak from the poisoning. I do not know how to recover them. Please help. I may lose these two too if I continue in the present way.
<Don't worry re: feeding them... they won't starve... and will hopefully recover. There is nothing else that I'd suggest to "withdraw" the poison (now likely metabolized)>
I have been adding fresh water regularly everyday in an effort to dilute the poison which might have got into the pond from the Christmas tree pot.  We have also shifted the Christmas tree away from the pond.  Your expert advice ASAP would be highly appreciated.  Ranjit. 
<Am hesitant to suggest adding salt at this point... as your fish may be so weakened that this will only harm them further. Bob Fenner>

FUZZY OSCAR
Hi, After a 75% water change and clean, my Oscar's eyes both became clouded (about of each eye surface). Can I treat this? What is it? He does not appear to be blind. He still follows my fingers. He is eating normally and acting fine. Thanks for your input. Please email your response. Kelley 
< Many fish don't appreciate big water changes. Especially if the chemistry of the water is very different. The new water may have also been cooler too. Either way you Oscar has been infected with a bacterial infection. Oscars are pretty tough and many times this goes away on its own within a few days. If not then treat with erythromycin. This is a pretty powerful anti biotic and may affect your good bacteria that break down the fish waste. Check for ammonia spikes after treatment.-Chuck> 

Oscar Going Black
Hello, I have an 8 inch albino Oscar, his name is Humberto, in a 100 gallon tank. Almost three weeks ago he started developing black along the edges of his fins. I assumed it was fin-rot and treated it as such, but alas it continued to spread. His anal and pectoral fins are now half black and his top fin is black along the back part of it. I've doubled the filtration (I'm currently using a 200 gallon filter) and increased the aeration. He is still as feisty as ever and it hasn't seemed to effect his health. He still acts exactly the same as he did before the black started developing, but I'm still extremely worried about my little (but getting larger) Humberto. I would sincerely appreciate any, ANY, information you might have about this.
< I would be concerned too. Check the nitrate levels. They should be under 25 ppm. Do a 30% water change , vacuum the gravel and clean the filters. Black usually indicates neurological damage. I would initially though that the problem was bacterial and treated just like you did. It may be a kind of protozoa so I would try Clout this time around. Check the food too. Color foods may add ingredients to their food to bring out pigments that some fish just don't have.-Chuck> 

Tiger Oscars
We have 2 tiger Oscars that have grown very large. They are in a 20 gallon tank that is way too small. We are going to get a 100 gallon tank within the next week. One of our fish has what I believe to be "hole in head disease or HLLE".
< Your Oscars are in too small a tank and the fitter cannot keep up with the excess waste. The hole in the head is caused from poor water quality and poor diet. The new tank will definitely help.>
I came to this conclusion from your website, which is wonderful.
<Thanks>
The other fish had it, but it seems to be healing. Our biggest one has 2 of the wounds. I sent 2 pictures for you to see. I want to know what I should do when I get the bigger aquarium in the next few days.
<Make sure you get a filter that will move at least 300 gallons of water an hour, has a wet dry component to it and is easy to maintain. It will be expensive but worth it in the long run. Take some of the gravel out of the 20 gallon and add it to the 100 gallon after it is set up. There are beneficial bacteria in the gravel that will be needed in the big tank. Use a good water conditioner when adding water. Get some test kits that check for ammonia , nitrite and nitrate. After your tank is established then the nitrate kit will be needed to help determine when you will have to do water changes.>
What should I get to treat them.
< Do not treat at this time. As conditions improve you should see an improvement in the fish but you may have to be patient.>
I feed them only the dried pellets. This is all they have ever had. I feed them twice a day. They are eating fine.
<Buying in bulk makes sense but can have its drawbacks. Fish food tends to lose its vitamin and mineral content quickly after it is opened and exposed to the air. After a container is opened it should be kept in the freezer. A smaller amount can be kept out in an airtight container and replenished after a week or so.>
Can you please just give me a rundown on medication and what I should have for my aquarium.
< More fish are probably killed from improper use of medications then by the diseases they are trying to cure. Keep the 20 gallon as a quarantine tank or a sick tank. Do all you medicating in there if possible. Don't buy any medications until they are needed. Some of them have a short shelf life and degrade quickly and become ineffective over time. Keep up on your water changes and check the filter often. Never feed you Oscars live feeder goldfish. The goldfish are treated poorly and carry numerous diseases that can be added to the tank when feeding them. Try washed earthworms instead as a treat. Not too often or they may become imprinted on them and refuse to eat anything else. Try not too over feed either. I know it is tempting because these fish end up being pro beggars. -Chuck>
   I know this is asking a lot. When we first got the fish we did not realize how big they would get. However, they are family and we don't want to get rid of them,  we want to do what is necessary for their health and happiness. Thank you for any information you can assist me with.
Kim Gullett

Oscar disease? Potential electrocution My Oscar is fairly good size, he has been swimming frantically across the tank slamming into the sides and everything else in the tank. When he is not doing that he floats almost as if he is dead. I have him in a 55 gal tank. he has a yellow coloring along his belly and gills. There is also marks on his face from slamming into the rocks on the bottom and turning in circles. He acts as if he is going crazy.. < Carefully unplug all electrical devices going to this tank, NOW! Heater, and pumps and  lights, Everything! After a few minutes and everything has cooled down I would inspect all the wires and devices for damage such as frayed wires, cracked housings and or leaks around seals. An electrical short such as in a heater that may have been cracked may be adding current to the tank every time it tries to turn on. This would account for the Oscar wildly dashing around every time the heater is turned on and acting half dead when the heater goes off. If you find any damage do not try and repair it. Instead head down to your local store and get a new and hopefully high quality heater for your tank. I would not try and skimp on price here. The are some models currently on the market that are  very durable. As you Oscar chases feeders around the tank he may have inadvertently cracked or damaged it. This can be a very dangerous situation so I would not put my hands in the water until everything is checked out. If everything checks out OK then check the water temperature and make sure it is around 80 degrees. Give your Oscar a large piece of PVC pipe that he can hide in it like a cave. This should help him settle down and give him some refuge from a tank that may be in a high traffic area and stressing him from all the outside activities. Check for infections on the open wounds and watch the fish closely. Do a 30 percent water change and check on the filters to make sure they are operating at full capacity. When you add new treated water to your tank, try and find a water conditioner with some wound control medication included.  -Chuck>
Oscar trouble - Gwen's Response My Oscar is fairly good size, he has been swimming frantically across the tank slamming into the sides and everything else in the tank. When he is not doing that he floats almost as if he is dead. I have him in a 55 gal tank. He has a yellow coloring along his belly and gills. There is also marks on his face from slamming into the rocks on the bottom and turning in circles. He acts as if he is going crazy.. >>Hello. Sorry to hear about your fish. We need to ask you some questions to help us help you. How many inches long is your Oscar? Are there any other fish in with him? Can you please give us some water test results. what are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels? Please be precise. This is important. Also, how often to you do partial water changes? What exactly do you feed him, and how often do you vacuum the gravel?  -Gwen

Oscar problems
I was reading the articles listed. I am having a problem with one of my tigers.  First I have them in a 55 gallon tank they are both only about 6 inches each, they were bought at the same time and have been together.  
<Okay>
Recently we had gotten some bad spring water which caused an algae growth.  I have been doing tank changes of at least 50% every other day and it is pretty much under control.  But now one of my guys is laying around and his sides look as though the other has been pecking at it.  I do not know if I have males or females or one of each.  I did go to my local pet store to see if they new anything that I could do.  They had the usual round of questions did I test the water if they are eating etc.  Water is at normal levels
<Normal being what?  What are your readings for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH?  You mentioned spring water - what are you using for these large water changes?>
and no they are not eating for at least 3 days now.  
<*Neither* of them are eating?  I would have suspected aggression above all things, but this does throw in a twist.  Most likely this is an environmental issue - with the massive water changes especially; what is your current pH, and has it changed at all since before the water changes?  Bottled spring water may very well not always have the same pH, other parameters.  Is there any reason you don't use (dechlorinated) tapwater?>
Any information you can offer greatly appreciated.  Karen
<I do hope we can be of service, and help you figure out what's going on....  -Sabrina>
- Re: Oscar Problems -
Thanks for the advice. I tried the Epsom salt (One tablespoon per five gallons the first day, and then half the dose the second) and it didn't work. Some days his bubble is smaller, but the next it's back to it's large size. He has been making a little progress b/c he's swimming now, but he hasn't eaten in about 3-4 weeks. Any other suggestions? It looks so painful!
Thanks.
-Mia
<This will take several weeks to heal up. Two days with Epsom salts isn't going to do much/enough. Please continue the treatment and be patient.
Cheers, J -- >
Oscar problems - II
The normal levels are according to my test kits.  Off hand I could not tell you the actual numbers I can tell you they were all 1 level low during the algae growth time period but now that there is a faint green tone yet the levels have come back up.  (not sure that this helps any)
<Well, I'm not quite understanding what you mean, I'm afraid; it does sound, from what I can figure, that you've had some issues with water parameters fluctuating.  If possible, do please re-test your water, check for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH, jot down the values, and let us know; I'm leaning towards something here being out of whack.>
Yes I only use the spring water.  For these last string of water changes I bought new jugs with seals and all.  Normally I go to the local store with the system out front that you fill your own for .25 per gallon.
<Seals 'n' all or from the spigot - the water may still differ significantly on certain things (pH especially, also mineral content).  The fact that you got a 'bad' batch that led to an algae bloom (high phosphate levels), in and of itself confirms that the spring water (well, from the spigot, basically just reverse osmosis water) is definitely fluctuating in quality.  If the pH in the water that you've recently changed is different from what the fish are used to, it will definitely cause serious problems - and I think that's what you're dealing with, though without test results (and knowing what it's supposed to be, normally), can not say for certain.>
This morning I got the healthier one to eat some brine shrimp pellets but the other is still not eating.  As far as the tap water I don't use it anymore due to having lost a whole tank of fish because our levels were too far off.  that was over 1 1/2 years ago and I have never had any problems till now.  
<Well, depending upon what you're starting out with (tap water, what parameters there; dechlorinator, etc.), it really, really might be a better idea to switch back to tap water (slowly, of course) once you've gotten everything settled.  Reason being, at least you know what you have to work with, and know where you need to go with it - spring/drinking/bottled water is always a mystery, and may lack things the fish need, etc.>
Now to add to everything.... I did move the other into a (I know this is not the best but..) 10 gallon tank, this is my feeder tank and it had no problems with the water.  This is the ill one.  It is now at least swimming around still not eating but swimming at least.  
<This makes me feel even more strongly that there's some environmental issue in the main tank - most likely pH.>
I am looking to move it back within next 24 hours don't like having it in such a small tank.
<I would not - not yet.  Let him heal up first, start eating again.  A six-inch Oscar can sit in a 10 gallon hospital tank for a few days without problems - provided water quality is watched closely.  Be certain that water you use for water changes in this temporary tank is of the same pH as the water that's currently in there - this is crucial right now; a roller coaster with pH levels is one sure way to make fish sick(er).>
I have been told to put Epsom salt in the water of the 55 to help heal the scales.  Is that good for it??  
<Might help, yes>
See I am also trying to figure out why Archie would have pecked at it so bad.  they did this when I first got them Archie would put bites in the head and actually I had figured that was a territorial thing but as time went on and Archie got bigger then Jughead (the ill one) he got nicer.  if the comets were to big Archie took bites out of it and "shared"
<Likely they will never be utterly peaceful with one another - ultimately, you may have some serious aggression, unless they are male/female and decide they like each other.>
But if you look at Jughead sides you would be able to understand a little more.  He is slimy and all but it looks like he had rubbed up against something and sheared the scales off which is why I am so worried its not consistent with the bites from when they were younger.
<Again, sounds like issues with water parameters, perhaps>
On your site I was reading the other posts and there was a person with a similar problem but there were not replies to her question.  she was thinking hers could have been pregnant?  
<?? hmm, that's very odd....  wonder what happened.... I can't seem to find that particular FAQ>
I am hoping this is not what this is since I have basically messed things up worse by moving the one out of tank but could that be a possibility here???
<This definitely is not pregnancy, from what I can figure so far - and I feel that you've done good by moving the sick(er) fish out, especially since you're seeing improvement, that's always a good sign.>
these guys are my babies I play games with them even I don't want any thing to happen to them and if I loose Jughead I really cant replace him because of Archie's size he would just end up eating the new ones......  
<I do understand your connection with your fish.  Please check your water, also test the bottled water, and the water that you usually get from the store so we can compare and find out what's gone wrong; while you're at it, you might go ahead and test your tapwater, too, just for future reference.  Perhaps we can figure out if pH is the issue, or rule that out and move on.>
Thank you for all your help so far
<Glad to be of service.  -Sabrina>
Oscar Problems - III
OK Now unfortunately I had moved Jughead back into the 55 after treating with salt water.  Archie immediately went after it.  put net in and that kept  Archie at bay as I sent my husband to the store for a divider.  
<I'm sorry to hear that, though not surprised.  Oscars generally do not play well together, in many circumstances.  Your guys are still small, but if they're feeling cramped in that 55 (which, if not now, they will sooner or later), that'll definitely make them aggressive toward one another.>
Unfortunately  they gave him an empty box with some of the pieces to one.  
<Oi.  Anything that can go wrong....>
put Archie in the other tank both are doing good now, swimming and such though Jughead still  not eating.  tested my waters tank water is in the normal range on all (as far as my test kit NH3/NH4 was 0, NO2 was between the levels of .03 and .08 and "normal" is about .08,
<A nitrite reading this high is not 'normal' or safe at all - this is *toxic* - nitrite should absolutely be zero.  I assume the tank is cycling again after the massive water changes, cleaning, etc; you'll probably have to change water to keep nitrite levels manageable while the cycle completes (do not clean gravel or filter during this time; the biological filtration needs a chance to reestablish).  What about ammonia?  nitrate?>
and my ph is at about 6.5 to 7 and that is about "normal"  
<Between 6.5 and 7.0 is a pretty large difference; could cause pH shock, etc.  What did you keep the pH at before the massive cleaning?  We'll call that 'normal' - if the pH in the bottled water is different, that is not normal.  If the pH in the bottled water is different from the pH in the source water you usually use (the water dispenser at the store, right?), that's also not normal.  The only way you can safely know what's in the bottled water or coming from the spigot, is to test the water.  The reason you got an algae problem from the 'bad' batch of water from the store was likely from a filter that was past its prime, leaving the water with high phosphate levels (which fed the algae).  The point that I'm trying to make here is that with store-bought water, you're playing liquid Russian roulette, unless you test the water before using it, so you know what you've got to work with.  At the very least, test the water you use for pH - if it's not the *same* as the water in the tank, then it is cause for concern, when changing water - especially in large quantities.>
my tap water after I tested per your suggestion has a ph of 8 to 8.5 and right there is where I stopped.  I don't trust this tap water at all.  
<I'm rather curious what test kits you're using - between 6.5 and 7.0, and between 8.0 and 8.5 is *extremely* vague - a 0.5 difference might mean life or death to very sensitive fish (fortunately, Oscars aren't terribly sensitive, but this significant a change will still harm them).  Also, I'm very concerned about the nitrite test, as well - between .03 and .08 is also very vague; and again, any nitrite above zero is toxic.  Anyhow, a high pH out of the tap is fixable - mine is horribly high in the summer (for instance, it is now *down* to 8.9, coming into fall), but it is still quite manageable with peat and bogwood to bring the pH down naturally.  'Course, there are plenty of other factors at play with tap water, and I do agree that some is *not* desirable to use - just please, if you're going to use store-bought water, at least test the pH before using, so you have half an idea what you're putting into the tank.>
Unfortunately now I am getting really discouraged!  
<Nah, don't let that happen!  You can get this squared away, one way or another.>
I am either being told to invest another 300 on an other tank,
<In the long run, if not quite soon, the two Oscars will be essentially incompatible in a 55 gallon tank, so I understand where this statement is coming from.>
stop feeding the feeder fish to them,
<Ooh.  Didn't realize you were using feeders....  I very much, wholeheartedly agree that you should wean them off these!  Feeder fish can (and do) bring in disease to fish being fed - if the feeder has something nasty, the fish that eats it runs quite a risk of catching it.>
let nature take its course, and not too worry because I have enough other animals why should I worry over one.  
<Hey, I'm with ya all the way, here - *every* animal under our care deserves equal treatment, care, respect....>
I will admit I do have a lot of animals between me and my family but I don't want to loose any (other then feeders)  and I have had these fish toooooo long not to worry.  
<Agreed, one hundred percent.>
The water is not the issue here.  
<Perhaps not *the* issue, but certainly *an* issue.>
the only thing that this could be anymore is territorial or they are attempting to mate and not to go against your judgment (you do know more of this subject then me) but once Jughead heals I will have to put them back in the tank together.  
<This is not going to work out, at least in the long run.  Trying to keep them together if they're fighting is going to result in illness or death.  Even if it is an attempt at breeding (which I *highly* doubt), it shouldn't be attempted in the small confines of a 55g....>
Unfortunately I have consulted a number of people on this problem and I'm afraid you are getting the butt-end of it all.  I am just overly upset when I am told to not worry because I have enough animals already.  Sorry that gets me!!!!  
<No sorry about it - I totally agree.>
I don't buy my feeders from the stores anymore I breed on my own.  except for the feeder fish and that's because they do eat a lot.  and now I am being told to either let the feeder fish sit for 2 weeks or not buy from a pet store.  I am not understanding this I let the feeder sit about 2-3 days because most die off in that time.  
<Umm, I'm confused.  Are you buying feeder fish from the store, or are you breeding your own feeder fish?  Breeding your own is safe; you know if the fish are sick, etc.  Purchasing feeders is a major gamble - you say they're dying off in two or three days, so obviously there's something wrong with them - you don't want your Oscars eating diseased food, right?>
I don't add new until the old is gone and it is hard to get food Archie and Jughead will eat in between.  they both do not eat floating things.  so flakes are out, I bought them cichlid pellets they wont eat them cause the float and when they were little I could get granules that sank they ate those.  they are now toooooo big for those.  the brine shrimp is the only thing I can feed them that they will eat that's not alive. and then its hard.  they have to catch it so it takes me 20 minutes to feed them!  
<There are lots of food options.  Please look into frozen foods - I'd most strongly suggest Ocean Nutrition's frozen "Formula One", which is marketed for saltwater fish, but is excellent fare for freshwater dudes, as well - you might have to mush it up a bit to get it to sink, but eventually the Oscar's catch on and love it.  Frozen bloodworms, bits of frozen shrimp or prawn (the people-food kind), lots and lots of options beyond live feeder fish.  Hey, even earthworms.>
Now I seem to be ranting I apologize about this I just hate that people can sell these fish and then not know anything about them
<Agreed>
and the one person I trust (small family owned store) she is tooo busy complaining cause I breed rodents for food to take the time to help.
<Yum, rodents!  The scaly pals have got to eat, too....>
I think I am done ranting----How long should I expect if this if a mating issue for this to last?  
<I very seriously doubt this is courtship.  The female shouldn't be *that* badly beaten up.>
Or should I just let Jughead heal and let nature take its course?
<Not what I'd do....  But then, you're about to hate what I'd do....  Your best bet is to find one Oscar a new home (either a new tank, or with someone else).  The territoriality will only get worse, and the loser will, well, lose.  *If* you try to reintroduce Jughead, first change around all the decorations, make it look totally different to Archie.  This *might* buy you some time.  Certainly do not try to reintroduce Jughead until he/she has completely healed.  Please do read through this link:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/oscars.htm .  Lots of good info, there; and please do browse through the freshwater articles for more info on water, treating, etc.  Hope everything works out for you.  -Sabrina>
Karen

Open Mouth Albino Oscar
Hi,
<Hello>
One of my Albino Oscar's has been having an open mouth for almost a month now. At first, I thought it was a fighting injury and thought it would go away. However, it does not seem to be going away and is starting to concern me.
<What size tank and how many fish?>
My water parameters seem to be OK (pH ~ 6.7, NH4+ < 1 mg/l, NH3 0.01 mg/l, NO2- < 0.8 mg/l). However I don't test for NO3- though (LFS was out of stock when I got the other kits).
<Actually, your water parameters are not OK at all. NH3 (ammonia), NH4 (ammonium), and NO2 (nitrites) should all be at 0ppm, anything above this is harmful to your fish. Ammonium is less harmful than ammonia but it’s still not desirable in your tank. You need to do water changes to get these levels down to 0 and to keep them there. Once you get them down I think you’ll see an improvement in your fish.>
Would appreciate any experience/advice you may have on this. Thanks in advance & Best Regards, KC Somaratne
<You're welcome! Ronni>
Re: Open Mouth Albino Oscar
Howdy,
Thanks for your input. However, I am not sure how to measure the ammonia, ammonium and nitrite to such precise levels to be able to say it is "0". I use the Sera (GmbH) Test Kits and what they have is a color chart that predicts what the approximate levels are. Well how you interpret it is subjective. They have 5 colors (say 1,2,3,4,5 from better to worse), and mine are usually within 1st - 2nd closer to the 1st. For the nitrite test kit they don't have a zero at all. It starts from < 0.1 mg/l. In their guide if you are at 1st or near 1st they mention the water quality being unquestionable. However for pH, I can be absolutely sure as I am using a pH pen (+/- 0.1 accuracy) for that.
Well I did make mistakes in my previous mail when specifying the levels for each of the substances. The values I quoted are the upper limits of what I've maintained and the ammonia should have been actually "< 0.01 mg/l" (NOT "0.01 mg/l", as I mentioned). The average values for the last month would be pH 6.7, ammonium < 0.3 mg/l, ammonia < 0.002 mg/l, nitrite < 0.3 mg/l. The values I quoted earlier were including the occasional spikes (mainly due to occasional over-feeding). Well my tank is a 55 gal with an Eheim Pro II 2026 external filter and a medium sized gravel substrate with a few Amazon swords planted in a corner. I have two Oscars (both ~ 3 in), two knife fish (both ~ 4 in) and a silver aro (~ 9 in) and one Pleco (~3 in). Hope this is helpful in trying to identify the situation. Actually, one more thing I forgot to mention in the earlier mail. The gaping open mouth of this Oscar almost looks as if there's as jaw dislocation. One side of his mouths underside also has a visible bent mark. Thanks again in advance & Best Regards, KC.
<OK, this isn’t quite as worrisome then but I would recommend getting some new kits that give more detailed readings. That way you know without a doubt on the water quality. The open mouth of the Oscar may indeed be an injury from a fight (as you originally thought) and it may not ever close. If it was a break or a dislocation that healed incorrectly then it will always appear gaping. As long as the fish is able to eat and does not show signs of distress I wouldn’t worry about it. Ronni>

Oscar with Popeye
I Have an Oscar which appears to have Popeye. By the advise of the first Pet Store I treated the tank with a partial water change, aquarium salt and tetracycline tabs for six days....The fish still had Popeye. So by the advise of a second pet store I again treated the tank with a partial water change 50%, aquarium salt and penicillin every other day for three treatments. Still the fish has Popeye. what else can or should I do. I
have had aquariums for 15 years or better and never had a fish with Popeye.
I would be appreciative of any advice. You can e-mail me at
<Thank you for writing. Popeye (fancy name exophthalmia) is a hard condition to cure... when "one sided" (unilateral) the cause is typically "mechanical injury" (a bump in the night)... Treatments per se are not necessary... but does take a good long time for the bulging to subside (weeks to months). Keep the system clean, maintenance up and you should see improvement in a few weeks. Please read here: http://www.WetWebMedia.com/popeyefaqs.htm and possibly the "Neotropical Cichlid FAQs" posted on WetWebMedia.com
Bob Fenner>
THANK YOU,
K. JACKSON
Re: Oscar with Popeye
Since I received your information on the subject of Popeye with my Oscar. I have kept a good watch on the tank and Oscar for any changes. My Oscar originally had her eye popping out and another bump on the upper back of the eye. Since I stopped treating the tank with antibiotics the bump has gone and another one has appeared her eye is still popping out and there is now blood in the eye chamber. What should I do if anything? And If there is no treatment will her eye eventually hemorrhage or will it go down. Any information you have will be helpful.
<Do your best to keep the system optimized and stable... and the fish fed with nutritious foods... This and patience is all that is needed, desired. The eye will improve or not otherwise. Bob Fenner>
Thank you,
Kelly

Pop Eye
I have a 14 inch Oscar that suddenly has a bulging eye. I'm told it's "Pop Eye" by a respected aquarium store. After starting treatment of 1/3 water change every two days, erythromycin on the change, using a different conditioner, I found some of your FAQ answers.
It's on the right side only. Still eats well, food limited to pellets and angle worms. He does move rocks around and bangs around in the tank once and a while. Had a few whitish spots (maybe from hits?)
<Maybe>
that quickly cleared up.
Still sees well with one eye (will quickly open his mouth if I do). Water tests OK and is kept at 78 degrees.
Looks like a wait and see for a couple of weeks?
<Yes... this is what I would do... keep up on maintenance, water quality... should show improvement by then. Service, life to you my friend. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
John

Oscar health
>C.J. Moody
>CASA
>Kitsap County Juvenile Court Services
><Is this the same town with the Kitsap County Aquarium Society? I used to "scan" your periodical back in the seventies for the local SDTFS... 
>Bob Fenner>
Yes, it is. I didn't realize that it was such an older club:)
<Yikes... I took over after Guy Jordan's passing back in the early seventies...>
But...
I need help. I mean I really need help. My Golds [Oscars] are looking really horrible. One of them now looks like his fins are rotting off. They have that cottony cloudy fungal look to them, but they seem to be rotting away. He is missing a huge chunk of his side fin, and his tail has *holes* in it that are getting bigger.
<...!>
I am giving them vitamins, Vitahex, with their food. I am putting about four drops of the baby vitamins a week into the water. I found some potassium iodide and followed the directions to the letter.
I removed the heater and bought a new one [the only piece of electrical equipment in the tank].
I did a 50 percent water change, and then a week later, a quarter tank water change. I am continuing that schedule of water changes [my magnum is not working as well as it should].
<What? How long has this been going on? What other livestock affected? What water tests have you been doing?>
What else can I do??? I am really getting stressed over this. I know my fish is going to die, one at a time, if this continues to degenerate like this, and at this rate. As it is one will be *horribly* scarred. I can live
with that, but am unsure I can live with all my fish dead.
Is there any thing else I can do? I read about something called Hexamita "Synonym Octomitus" as being one of the causes of this type of disease.
Is this true, and if so, what can I do for that?
cj.
<Hexamita (formerly of the genus Octamita) necatrix is almost for sure not the causative mechanism here... Water quality is very likely the prima facie cause. Arresting the necrosis is all-important at this point, as is "solving" by correcting the poor water quality. Again, please answer the above questions... I would be changing massive amounts of water and likely applying furan compounds. Please place any/all terms above in your search engines and study NOW and act NOW to save your livestock. Bob Fenner>
Re: Ongoing Oscar Disease Problem
>I did a 50 percent water change, and then a week later, a quarter tank
>water change. I am continuing that schedule of water changes [my magnum is
>not working as well as it should].
><What? How long has this been going on? What other livestock affected?
>What water tests have you been doing?>
This is the same problem that I have had for the last few months. It just seems to have gotten really worse over the last week. After I started treatments with vitamins and stuff, it seemed to improve, then this big
crash all of a sudden.
I haven't done any water tests. To be frank, the expense I am running into with the vitamins, the new heaters, the other medications, along with other household expenses is stretching me thin between paychecks.
<I do understand this believe me. Do look for other ways to save money (for instance cheaper pelleted foods, cut beef heart...) for your Oscars, and get test kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate at ASAP. Stop with the treatments for Hexamita... these are quite toxic, and I strongly doubt that they are/have been doing you (or your fishes) any good>
The water test kit was pricey, as was the *only* bottle of iodide I could find [it was huge]. Mind you, this is a 150 tank. I will take a sample into my fish store today and have them test it. I already have new 2 new magnums on order.
>Is there any thing else I can do? I read about something called Hexamita
>"Synonym Octomitus" as being one of the causes of this type of disease.
>Is this true, and if so, what can I do for that?
><Hexamita (formerly of the genus Octamita) necatrix is almost for sure notthe causative mechanism here... Water quality is very likely the prima facie cause. Arresting the necrosis is all-important at this point, as is "solving" by correcting the poor water quality. Again, please answer the above questions... I would be changing massive amounts of water and likely applying furan compounds. Please place any/all terms above in your search engines and study NOW and act NOW to save your livestock.
Bob Fenner>
Ok, I have no idea what your talking about furan compounds.
I will do so on the search engine right this minute.
<Very good my friend. These are anti-microbials like Nitrofurazone, as you will know. Bob Fenner>
cj.
Re: Ongoing Oscar Disease Problem
>>above questions... I would be changing massive amounts of water and likely
>>applying furan compounds. Please place any/all terms above in your search
>>engines and study NOW and act NOW to save your livestock. Bob Fenner>
>Ok, I have no idea what your talking about furan compounds.
>I will do so on the search engine right this minute.
><Very good my friend. These are anti-microbials like Nitrofurazone, as you will know. Bob Fenner>
All my searches are turning up using those words are chemical compound information texts, and chemical/pharmaceutical companies. Nothing that even relates to aquatics.
<You may need to consult actual books on fish disease.>
The good news is that they still eat ravenously, and there bottom fins are still out and set straight as if they were healthy...
I will wait and see if you can give me anything else on the furan stuff to look for, and then will bottle some water and start another water change.
What is so frustrating is that all these fish lived in a 55 gallon, over crowded, and stayed fairly healthy. A few problems with ick and aggression, and the start of the HLLE. About two months ago I pulled the money together to get the 150 tank. The HLLE was just starting when I did the tank change.
<You can, will defeat this problem.... with improvement in water quality, stability of same, and use of vitamins and iodide>
It just seems to keep going downhill.
I used the water from the 55, I did everything as normal as I would have done if I moved them to any other tank. I have shifted tanks many times over the years. I thought the 150 would make them happy, alleviate the overcrowding, and be wonderful. And it seems that it just keeps going downhill.
I have four other tanks of beautiful healthy fish, not a problem with any of them, and they are all cichlid tanks with the exception of one which is Gouramis and tetras.
I am really frustrated and broke [brokenhearted] now.
<Please don't give up. Persistence pays my friend. Bob Fenner, who suggests logging onto one of the cichlid chatforums for consolation and other input.>
cj.

Oscars, Velvet Cichlids
I have two Oscars about six inches, I've had them for several months now but it seem one is sick. The larger of the two has gotten sluggish and tends to lie on the bottom or top of the tank. He has a few dimples or slight holes around the front of his head so I've started treatment for hole in the head but know I've noticed a slight film over one of his eyes. Is there something else I should be treating him for? John Wissler
<It sounds like you may have some water quality issues. These big, messy eaters require frequent large water changes and a large tank to remain happy and healthy. Twenty five percent per week and housing two in at least 75 gallons of water would be good. Also, try adding 1 tablespoon of Epson salt per 5 gallons until the eye clears up. -Steven Pro>

Sick Oscars
Mr. Fenner,
<Anthony Calfo here in your service>
I have two Oscars that have some kind of parasite or disease that I and my fish store can not seem to identify and cure. Both of the Oscars are scratching their entire bodies against the rocks and gravel in my aquarium. They almost seem to "freak out" before doing this by starting to wiggle a little and then go spastic and swim blindly into things or scratch themselves on purpose. They have large patches of scales
missing. I can not see anything wrong with them. Their eyes are clear, no visible parasites, and they breath at a normal rate.
<could just be (common with big messy fish) a water chemistry problem that irritates the gills like high nitrates or extreme pH...test and report. May not be a disease at all>
First I tried an antibiotic than helps with loss of scales and fungal, internal, and bacterial infections. 
<safe move, but if pathogenic, scratching is more indicative of a parasite>
It had no effect. Next I tried copper. Their appetite returned, but they are still getting worse because they do not stop scratching.
<sounding more like a water quality problem>
Their tankmates (a jack Dempsey, a Pleco, and a red devil) are unaffected by this. 
<different species have different tolerances>
I have been doing large water changes ritualistically in this tank since these fish produce a lot of waste, so I doubt it has anything to do with water quality. 
<never assume that ...especially with messy fish>
<good>
I also added aquarium salt at one tablespoon per gallon and a product that helps coat the fish's scales and reduce stress to try and help relieve some of their discomfort. Thank you for your help. I am afraid if I do not cure this soon, they will die.
<have no fear...they are very hardy fish. Do a full chemistry test and report back. Anthony>

Help, something is wrong
My tank has been set up for 5 days, we tested for nitrates - 0, ph 7.0 and I used a product called Cycle (which is supposed to add friendly bacteria) I also used a water conditioner with aloe. The 4 Oscars I first wrote to you about were sucking air pretty heavily earlier today, and have not eaten all day.
<You placed these fish a bit soon... are you testing for ammonia, nitrite? Do not feed them anything...>
Tonight they are mostly down the bottom and their mouths and gills are moving constantly. I introduced some tinfoil barbs and they immediately went to the top -- it looks like they are trying to suck air. I ended up getting a Armoured catfish (our aquarium store has not any much luck with the vampires they have
gotten recently so they are reluctant to order any. We also added an additional "quick filter" tonight. Any suggestions on what the problem may be?
<Likely a oh-too typical "run-in" period bottle-neck... New systems need/take time to "settle in", particularly with essential bacteria populations for "cycling"... conversion of the principal waste product of fishes, invertebrates (ammonia) to less noxious nitrate (through an intermediate series of toxic nitrite)... Hence the suggestion to not feed at this point... Stop adding livestock, increase aeration and if possible add some used filter media, substrate... Please read here: http://www.WetWebMedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm
This piece on marine systems... principles apply to all aquatic systems. Bob Fenner>
Thanks so much for your help.
Linda
Re: Help, something is wrong
Thanks again, I'll keep you posted. All the best for the new year.
Linda
<Thank you my friend. And to you. Bob Fenner>
Re: Help, something is wrong
Hi, me again. I read through your articles, and should have done so before getting my fish. We were told 3-5 days set up is all we needed with Oscars and add from there.
<Yikes!>
Wow, not too accurate. We added the aeration filter and some more Cycle and everyone seems happy right now. Ammonia, Nitrate, pH, and Nitrite are okay. 
<Ahh, thank you for this news>
How long do you figure I should wait to feed? 
<At least a day. Do test your water on the morrow>
Thanks for your helpful advice, my poor fish could have suffered more, even died without it.
Linda
<Ah, a pleasure my friend. Life to you. Bob Fenner>
Update
Dear Bob,
I thought I'd let you know that Oscars et al are doing well. We have been testing the water daily - everything coming up normal, and doing a 20% water change every other day. I would once again like to thank you for your help (my fish thank you too).
<Great to hear of the improvement>
We set up a 40 gallon tank yesterday and will follow your advice and let it cycle for a few weeks before adding livestock. That will give us time to plan what goes in and keep the stress level to a minimum. I am
thinking of putting a couple of crayfish (Astacus) in (cause I like to watch them)
<Very interesting animals... I had Procambarus clarkii (the most common "crawdad"... used as "ditch bugs" in Louisiana, Texas, and California when I could get enough of them...) for years>
and need to figure out what to add with them. I haven't had an aquarium since I was very young (too young to know how to look after them) and I had forgotten how enjoyable and relaxing it is to watch them.
<Look for livestock that's fast, aware, large enough... but not too susceptible to crayfish dinners!>
Thanks again for your help and do/will keep in touch.
Linda
<Do so. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Lethargic Oscar
I have an 80 gal tank with 2 Oscars and a bunch of other fish (13 fish total 3" - 8") A magnum 250 and a penguin 330, 2 power heads w/ undergravel filter and lots of structures.  The problem is one of the Oscars is acting dormant.  lying on his side with somewhat labored breathing.  He is still eating when fed and pretty much defending himself, but this is not normal behavior.  We've had him and another one for over a year ( not much bigger than a goldfish) and the other one did this and died a couple of days later.  Now I'm worried this one will do the same.  His gills seem to functioning correctly, we never feed him live food, all levels (nitrites, ammonia, pH, and temp) are excellent.  A 30 percent or so water change has been being done every 4-6 weeks.  There are no visible signs of disease or wounds.  He has lightened colors.  When the other Oscar died we got an albino Oscar (same size as the one we had) they fought, we separated them, let them out, now they are fighting a little but not much and now he is acting this way.  
<This sounds like a water quality issue, what were the results of the water tests?  Test for nitrate as well.  What types of food are you feeding?  I would increase the water change routine to 30% every week.  Best Regards, Gage>
Re: lethargic Oscar
All levels in the tank are exactly were the are supposed to be according to a Fresh Water Master Test Kit made by aquarium pharmaceuticals, inc.  We feed them Hikari Cichlid Gold pellets.  By the way, one of the original jack Dempsey fish has died in the meantime.  Same sort of symptoms, but they've gone on and off again several times.  Is there some kind of a disease that
slowly kills the fish with  no visible (i.e.: sores or streaks) signs?
<Hello, I'm still thinking it is a water quality issue, 13 fish in the 80gal is a little crowded, it is really only big enough for 2 Oscars.  I would take a water sample down to the local fish store to confirm that your tests are correct.  It could also be internal parasites, or just stress from "defending himself".  Oscars are extremely sensitive fish, it is not hard to hurt their feelings.  After I moved mine to his new home he would not come near me for a month.  It would not hurt to move him to a separate tank until he has recovered from what's ailing him. -Gage>

- Oscar with Dirty Pores - <Hi, JasonC here...> Hi, I have a 4 year old Oscar who has developed these holes on both sides of his head. He also has a large red blotch on the front of his head, which is indented and looks like a scrap, but it isn't a scrap because it would have healed by now.  He has had both of these symptom for at least two weeks.  I thought he had the hole in the head disease which would explain the holes, but I don't think that would also cause the red spot.  But I treated him for it anyway. I used clout last week for 3 days. Then this week I used this "Parasite clear" by "jungle" for 8 days, but it doesn't seem to be helping and the holes are getting larger and I think more are starting to form on his face.  His behavior is normal. I attached 2 pictures of the marks on him which hopefully will be able to help you. So if you can tell me what you think it is and what I can do, I will appreciate it very much. <Unfortunately, this condition is very common with Oscars, and it comes from the condition of the water they are living in. Essentially, these fish can dirty their water beyond what most people expect, can see, or have placed equipment for. For the most part, this is very hard to reverse. You're best bet is to apply all your energies to keeping the water as pristine as possible. To do this you should at least double your filter cleaning efforts, and probably add a second filter as well.> Thank you Chris <Cheers, J -- >

Sick Oscar sick
I have a 6yr old Oscar who has had hole in the head since he was 2yrs. Recently he has developed cloudy pectoral fins with red streaks in the vein of one side. The tank is a 55gl he is about 12" filtration is a 350 magnum,400 Emperor 280 Emp he is the only fish in it. water changes are done weekly. filters changed about evert 2 weeks alternating .Change water consist of, ro/di add SeaChem cichlid salt and Alk buffer and cycle to tank each water change  test for GH 7 KH 3 ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 60ppm I have been dosing Metronidazole last three water changes  it seems to help some but at each new water change he seems to do worse again. He acts like he is having a hard time seeing his food which all he will eat is tetra food sticks Half the tank has about a 1/4" of small gravel the other side he stays at the most is ,bare .PH is 6.9 to 7.1 Not sure why he seems to do worse after water change it does look like he has some Ich also temp is 79 would  be very thankful for any help Thanks Jeff. He has had a good appetite until having trouble seeing
< The nitrates are too high making him susceptible to diseases. Nitrate levels should be under 25 ppm. This is partially the reason for the hole in the head. So here is what is going on and here is how to fix it. You have lots of filtration which is good , but you are not changing them often enough. I know the canister filter is a pain to deal with but you need to change all the filters at the same time and at least once a week. The filters take the waste out of the tank but do not remove it from the system. So the bacteria continues to break down the ammonia and nitrites into nitrates. That is good and that is what is supposed to happen . The problem then is removing the nitrates. Nitrates are removed by changing the water to dilute them to under 25 ppm. You can change all the filters at once because the bacteria are living on the BioWheels. Do a 30% water change and clean all the filters. Vacuum the gravel to get rid of all the crude that has accumulated there. Once the tank is clean we can begin treatment. Organics in the water will absorb fish medication making them unavailable for treating the diseases. Remove the BioWheels and any carbon in the filters. Place the BioWheels in a container with water from the tank and let them sit in a cool dark place for a time. You Oscar has developed a bacteria infection and needs to be treated with a Nitrofuranace type drug. If he has Ich too then treat it at the same time with rid-Ich. Change 30% of the water before repeating the medication. Try and get the water temp. up to 80 to 82 degrees F. Once the fish is cured try to get him to eat with washed earthworms. The additional live food should bring him around quickly. Once he is eating then change some water and put the carbon back into the filters. When the medication has been removed and the green colored water is gone, you could then put the BioWheels back on the filters. Watch for ammonia spike because the medication may affect the good bacteria needed to break down the fish waste. So more water changes may be needed under the tank stabilizes again. If you Oscar is strong enough then he can handle the changes. Hopefully you have caught it in time.-Chuck>

Oscar
Hello, My name is Bill Holland. I have an Oscar that has been laying on his side at the bottom of the tank. I read some of the FAQ and advice, and notice you advice Epsom salt and medicated food. Could you please give me a dosage for both, and a brand food you would advice. Thank you.
< Do a 30% water change and service the filter. Make sure the water temp is up around 80 degrees F. Try and get him some washed earthworms. Once he eats a couple of these he should be up and about. Try and get him to eat some pellets by Spectrum, Marineland or Hikari. -Chuck>
Bill
Re: Oscar
I've done the water change and filter change. I put in salt this evening, as well as a treatment for ick. Should I keep going with the salt, or just go with the food?
< I think you need to get him up and build up his strength, so I would start getting him the food.-Chuck>