"Water Loss", pond  6/10/08
Hello, I got a question in regards to my 12' X 14' X 4' (deep) Koi pond with a 4' in length of stream (about 16" wide).&I live in Southern California, and is it unusual to lose about an inch of water over 24 hours period given my set up/weather here?
<Mmm, such amounts can be due to "simple" evaporation... given low humidity, high/er temperature, wind...>
&Please let me know.&I've looked around the pond trying to detect any possible leak and I've yet to see any evidence of that.
<There are companies who specialize in detecting such leaks... If this amount of water loss is prohibitive (we live in San Diego... so know the cost of water) or a concern in terms of not knowing where it's getting off to... perhaps damaging someone's property... I would look in the Yellow Pages (see Swimming Pools... repairs), and call a co. re. Bob Fenner>

Rectorseal Epoxy in Ponds/Aquariums – 01/31/08
Bob,
<<EricR here tonight>>
Do you happen to know if Rectorseal EP-200 Epoxy Putty is safe for use in ponds etc?
<<It is>>
I need to seal an outlet from a home-made filter and this is all I could find locally.
<<I have used Rectorseal EP-400 for years in my reef tank with no deleterious effect. I believe the difference between the -200 and -400 designations is the size of the container (2oz vs. 4oz)>>
Cheers for any help!
Tom
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>

Reconstructing old concrete ponds  12/16/07
Hi, Bob and company,
<Sarita>
The project in question is an 80 year old meditation garden with several small (10' - 20' widths) ponds and a stream bed, all with cracked concrete. A recent attempt was made at fixing them by simply covering the old concrete with pond liner, but not the good EPDM rubber liner ~ rather the much stiffer, wrinkle ridden polyethylene liner.
<Neither attractive nor lasting>
This has resulted in an aesthetic challenge, among other problems. Tons of head size and slightly larger stones have been piled along the edges to cover the liner with questionable results.
<... and a maintenance nightmare>
My redesign involves removing the small stones and bringing in big boulders (that exist on the property ~ they are fortunate to have an amazing supply of natural boulders and stone!) . In the process, I will need to bust the concrete out at least around the edges of the ponds and stream bed in order to accommodate the boulders in a naturalistic way (digging them partly into the stream banks).
<Mmm, yes...>
I would like to save the owners some money in redoing the work.
Where possible, it would be economical to reuse the lining which they already spent a good deal on.
<Not likely... they and you would be better off starting new... removing the existing, breaking the edge and making "islands" where you intend to mount the new large rock, laying in a new liner with mesh, shotcreting all, placing the boulders, mortaring in around these... with the liner higher than water level behind... all within the basin...>
I have some questions:
I will be mortaring my stonework and am considering using mortar to cover any exposed liner (with a Quickrete colorant to simulate the stone/local soil color) and will use an acrylic strengthener. Will that be enough over the poly lining? What thickness do you recommend?
<20 mil plus>
Should I paint the liner with a cement glue first?
<No... no advantage>
Mold aviary wire over the liner surface?
<Yes... or stucco, chicken... wire>
How about adding fiber mesh to the mix?
<If there's money in the budget, this won't hurt... I'd rather spend the money on better and more (plasticized) cement>
This is at an elevation that typically has +25° lowest winter temps, 100+ summer highs. I believe soil heaving is mitigated by the many tree roots of the surrounding forest, but I would like any advice you have on mortaring for cold weather, and mortaring over liner, especially as I intend (though not by preference!) to re-use the poly liner for the water containment.
<Mmm... is the feature to be drained, water-less during the freezing weather? If not, I would not be concerned especially... Again, I would plan on replacing the existing liner... it is VERY likely perforated, will suffer further piercings with the new work... I would remove it rather than lay over the new one... Butyl would be best...>
Thanks so much for your website! Contribution forthcoming!
Sarita
<Yay! Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

Re-install Large Pond In Clay Soil, Pond Near House Re Installed After Collapse  11/15/07
Dear Crew. Put in 4' deep x 8' wide x 33' long Koi pond about 3 years ago.
< Wow, that is a really big pond.>
Concrete block mortared together for side walls. In bottom we put 2" sand, then underlayment of carpet backing, then EDPM vinyl liner. We included a large biological waterfall (using a 150 gallon rubber water tank filled with filtering materials).
The pond lays 4' from the house and stretches along the length of the front sideway between the house and the sidewalk.
The soil here is clay and develops very deep wide crevices during the heat of summer.
< A typical expansive clay.>
About a year and half ago we drained the pond because our house foundation fell. We had a contractor put concrete piers along the perimeter to re-level. We don't know if the pond had anything to do with it, but don't believe it did, although we continually had quite a bit of water loss that we feel was the waterfall.
<The house fell for a reason. The piers transfer the load of the foundation from your house down past any influence from the pond. Hopefully the soil there is much stiffer.>
In the meantime our two gorgeous Koi have been living in 150 gallon tank, and we want to go ahead and re-install the pond, but want to take extra precautions against any possible leaks as it is so close to the house.
Do we need to do anything extra than your suggestions of liner, then concrete, etc.? My plan is to keep the old liner in (although not trustworthy as re-modeling materials during structure tear down were thrown into it), go ahead and put a new liner in and proceed from there.
Also, we have decided to bring the pond up to a 2' depth and need advice as to what material would be best to do this......just dirt or what about pea gravel......or sand?? This would go over the old liner, and then we would continue per your site instructions.....
Sorry to be so lengthy but would appreciate any thoughts before we do this. Thanks Darla McLeroy
<Any material that you use to bring up the pond bottom needs to be compacted to prevent differential settlement. Use whatever is the most cost effective and densify the material in 8" lifts using a mechanical hand whacker up to the grade you desire. The last lift or top material needs to be a material that is recommended by the manufacturer of the liner. If you use a pea gravel as fill then a sand used on top will just fall through. If you use soil it needs to be free of any sharp objects like stick and stones. Pea gravel is almost self compacting but holds lots of water between the pore spaces.-Chuck>

Leaking underneath a cement dam.. 9/6/07
I have a cement dam about 40 ft long and 8ft high...3' wide...a beautiful acre pond behind fed by a small stream...this summer the stream dried up and all the water leaked out gradually from underneath the cement dam somewhere....how should I go about the repair ..please advise....Mike
<Mmm, w/o knowing more, I am inclined to encourage you to have a soils engineer out to test the "overburden" of the material on the bottom, look about for areas of leaking soil-wise... and possibly a structural engineer to survey the extant dam... may need substantial re-doing... Have you taken a look/see where this volume of water would likely go given a catastrophic dam failure? Bob Fenner>

Re: leaking underneath a cement dam..  9/7/07
Hi Bob...its not that big a deal as you seem it is...the spillway of the dam leads down into a major river...
<Ah, good... a relief>
I believe the Dam is leaking underneath in one place....Will the treatment of sodium bentonite probably solve my problem ??
<Is a good, semi-inexpensive worthwhile try IMO/E. Do dish it in well Bob Fenner>

Faux rock repair around my pool  9/2/07
I live in Las Vegas. The faux rock waterfall that is part of my swimming pool has started to crack in various places. The calcium from the salt system leaches into the cracks. The pool is 7 years old .The rocks are a typical
wire mesh/rebar/stamped & stained concrete variety. The cracks themselves are no bigger than 3/32" wide, but some are as long as a foot or two.
Researching the net doesn't really address a specific technique....could you be so kind as to advise me on a DIY???
respectfully,
Michael Best
<Mmm, yes... there is a Thoro Product called Water Plug that is a very fast-setting mortar that actually expands when it cures (most cementatious materials shrink)... I would get this, and an oxide to color it (take a sample of your rock to a stucco company and they'll match it for you), mix the two together dry... in small batches (the amount you can use in under five minutes). Apply with a sharp trowel, wipe with a yellow sponge that is damp... Voila! Bob Fenner>

Underwater Paint Repair  8/5/07
We recently purchased a house with a pond which is +/- 1200 gal and about 30" deep. It is concrete lined and the liner was originally painted white.
<... really? What sort of liner material is this?>
The rebar was apparently close to the surface and is now rusting through in some areas.
<Too typical... the shell wasn't waterproofed itself...>
We are concerned that his could lead to leaks and/or failure.
<You are wise here>
Is there some non toxic (we have several gold fish in the pond), underwater paint I can use to contain the rust and re-coat the concrete.
<Mmm, yes... a few things... depending on how involved you want to get (money and time-wise)...>
We have drained it once and really don't want to
do it again. We appreciate any thoughts. Thanks, Pete
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/thoroselart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Problem with my large <earthen> fish pond   6/13/07
Dear sir
I have a large commercial fish pond, approximately 1 acre of sandy soil. The depth is 30 feet. My problem is that the water level goes down drastically during the winter time. My pond is situated on an agricultural land. The leakage happens mostly during irrigation period. I live in Bangladesh. How do I stop the water from seeping / receding out? Please help!
Regards
Tanvir
<Mmm, likely there is a local clay product that can be dished in (while this basin is emptied of water) that will render an impermeable layer to the bottom. Do check with your agricultural extension agent (or such) there re "Bentonite" clays. Bob Fenner>

Re: problem with my large fish pond – 06/14/07
Thanx a million Bob Fenner, That was a great help
<Ah, good>
Keep up the good work at Wet Web Media
Tanvir
<Am trying my friend. BobF>

Fiberglass pond repair  – 06/07/07
If you resurface a pond with fiberglass is it safe to put fish in it, or will the fiberglass kill the fish
thank you Frances
<Needs to be cured... but can be done... Not the best material in almost all cases... unless the original construct was/is fiberglass and resin... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/Pond%20Sub%20Web.htm
Scroll down to the tray on "Repair".
Bob Fenner>
 

Emailing: 100_6814,... Pond repair    5/23/07 Mr. Fenner, <Jack> I am seeking advice regarding potential repair of a koi pond/waterfall damaged by a tree strike.  The ponds are cast-in place concrete reinforced with wire mesh and reportedly constructed over a liner. <Mmm, you should be able to find evidence of this one way or t'other by digging a bit around the outside of the basins... But/and I am doubtful that this is the case... given the large rocks, their placement> The owner has employed several types of repair schemes... topical elastomeric and topical epoxy without success. <Yes... I would not encourage these avenues.> There is likely some soil consolidation beneath the areas of fractures as these areas present a noticeably different sound when tapped with a steel rod. However, there is no evidence that the soils in general are unstable.   If this were your water feature how would you repair it, if that is an option?  Thanks for your help. Best regards, Jack Fingold <The best, really only secure means is to treat the existing basin/s as holes presently... cut, fit a liner (Please read here re the various choices: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/linerspdconst.htm and the linked files above), adhering the edge to the highest water line (yes, unfortunately, over the submerged areas of the gorgeous rockwork), and applying a goodly amount of adherent (choice depends on the liner chosen) at the margin... and going through, completing the work as if the new liner were laid in against original cut/grade... with wire, shotcrete or similar, color... Bob Fenner>

Need to seal pool   5/10/07
Pool
25 meters long - 15 meters wide - up to 7 meters deep if we could fill it.
We need to find a way to seal our concrete and rock swimming pool/pond/lake.
This pool was very carefully constructed out of rocks
<... that penetrate the basin...>
and concrete and we expected it to leak BUT we did not expect that our 20+ gallons per minute pump would not even be able to half fill it before the pump could not keep up with the leaks.
<And wonder what the disposition of the missing water is...>
We have since emptied it and meticulously grouted between all the rocks
<... not easily done...>
with a 50/50 fine sand cement mix which helped but and we got it a little fuller but still not good enough for the pump to stay ahead of the leaks.
We don't want to cover the rocks if we can avoid it and we are looking for a product that will penetrate and make it considerably more watertight.
<There are hydraulic cementacious products (that expand rather than contract when curing/cured)...>
The pool is in Honduras, which is sub tropical and we are therefore not concerned about the effects of temperature changes during the year. It is always shorts and t-shirt weather here. 12 hour days all year round and warm to hot ambient temperature.
We have a permanent water supply from our shallow well right beside the pool and only need to pump a 24 foot head to fill the pool completely (if we slow down the leaks sufficiently).
Any suggestions, ideas, help and/or assistance will be most appreciated.
<Ask about re companies in the area... perhaps ones that work on engineering, building the roads, large concrete structures like buildings... e.g. "Water Plug" by Thoro Products would work here... but expensive...>
Our main project here is a school for poor children and this pool has been built for the specific purpose of also teaching the children to swim. We can also arrange tax deductions for any products or portion of products that you might like to donate if you are so inclined.
Looking forward to hearing from you
Regards
Ben Udy
project director
Cofradia's Bilingual School
<www.cofradiaschool.com>
<Bob Fenner>

Sealing EPDM liner to cement... possible, but messy  2/19/07
Hi, Bob
<Eric>
I am redirecting an existing waterfall through a narrow gap between two very large hard to move boulders into a new creek, so I need to link between two sections of EPDM with concrete between them (concrete to serve as "pond liner" within the narrow 3"-4" gap between boulders and extend several inches out in both directions. I do not want liner to be visible in gap between boulders. Can I bond the liner to the smooth cement with asphalt emulsion UNDER the water level?
<Mmm... possibly... a real mess though... wear your absolutely worst clothes... very long, up to the elbow and beyond... "ladies" dishwashing gloves or similar for chemical handling...>
If  not, what's the best adhesive?
<This really is (amongst what is widely available) the best material... there are a few formulations... You want the very "viscous" material... likely labeled for roof patching...>
Or alternatively, if I were able to dress the EPDM thru the crack between the boulders, how can I seal it to the rock BELOW the water line?
<A VERY good idea to do this at the "low water level" time of the year... BEST by far to divert or dam the water for a day...>
Asphalt emulsion , construction adhesive calk, RTV calk, polyester resin???
<Only the first will work IMO>
If I go the cement route, is there risk the bond between cement liner and the boulders will crack from settling or whatever creating a leak?
<Always, yes... best to fit this with large, well-shaped rock... and fill the gap (best to actually make a "form" first, and build to fit closely OUTSIDE the system), with a very fast settling cementacious product like Thoro's "Water Plug"...>
Perhaps I should cast in a 1/2" gap between the concrete and boulders on each side and calk it with flexible sealant like that used on swimming pool decks?
<Bingo! A wise choice>
Thanks,
Eric
<Welcome, Bob Fenner>

Repairing fiberglass waterfall  - 12/04/06
I am trying to repair a prefab fiberglass waterfall. There are no cracks in it. It has lost its original coloring as it is nearly 6 years old.
<Yes...>
We have about 7 fish and I don't want to use anything that will harm them.
Do you know if regular colored grout can be used?
<Do know, and no, cannot be used>
Thanks for any info you could send my way.
<A repair can be made if the original fiberglass/resin isn't too badly delaminated, and the area behind the break is supported well enough (not too flexible)... with fiberglass cloth (look for in determinate widths), color/ing if you'd like, laminating/hot-coat resin and hardener, oh and a "throw-away" small brush to apply it. The falls must be dry, clean, and I'd roughen up the surface with a low grit sandpaper of sorts... do wear gloves, long-sleeve shirt and avoid the bits of fiberglass removed... let cure... Bob Fenner>
<<Bob, as I read this letter, I thought he was simply trying to restore coloration to an aged fiberglass structure, not repair a structural piece. I was going to try my hand at a reply, but you beat me to it *grin* My suggestion was to be to dry the waterfall surface and try a buffing compound such as 3M Imperial Rubbing Compound to bring back the coloration... Oftentimes oxidation of this sort is simply buildup on the surface of the fiberglass and will buff right out.. I can't tell you how many lake-worn boats I've brought back to a showroom shine with some buffing compound and some elbow grease. Hope this helps! -JustinN>>
>Yikes... do see this as you state (now)... Will re-respond... My input remains the same excepting the use of the fiberglass cloth, tape... roughen up the surface, re-coat with colored laminating (not casting) resin and moderate/measured amount of MEK hardener. Thank you Justin. BobF<
>>No problem, Bob, its what I appreciate most about the community here: the group think concept. Ideas are better thought out when you have more eyes looking at problems, I only ask for the same if I have any such similar incidents *grin*, Subsequently, while on the subject of refinishing a fiberglass structure as such, what is your opinion of one-part epoxy paints, such as those used for jet skis? These were some of the more readily accessible, easy to use, and cheap types of paint I dealt with in my time in the body work industry, and always gave very nice results. Would you feel them to be adequate for such a situation as described above? -JustinN<<
<Mmm, likely so... given very thorough prep... Part of the reason I like the "hot coat" surfboard/use resins... they're much more "sticky", forgiving. Cheers, BobF>

Lining a concrete pond  11/18/06
Hello WWM Crew,
<Brian>
Warm greetings from Sydney Australia where we are just entering summer and
enjoying the worst drought in a thousand years (I am not sure how they worked that out as records only go back about 150 years!).
<And such even numbers... reminds one of "budget" numbers from simple servants in the U.S.>
I am very impressed with your extensive knowledge you share with the Web community and thank you for that.  I have a problem I was hoping you could assist with.
<Will try>
I have converted an old sunken garden into a pond by rendering it and covering the render with a two-part waterproof paint the name of which escapes me.  It is about 10 feet by 8 feet and about 3 feet deep.  It is a very happy home for seven goldfish and a whole bunch of vegetation.  This worked fine for 8 to 10 years but has recently developed a leak.  I found what I thought was the leak, scratched it out and filled with a silicon glue (a Selleys product) which seemed to slow the leak down but didn't stop it. I suspect there are roots from my neighbor's pine trees involved.
<Very common>
I have decided to line the existing concrete pond with a butyl rubber membrane and although I have scoured your excellent website I can't seem to find an answer to my questions.
Can you comment on my decision to line the pond?
<Is excellent... the roots will not penetrate this material>
How should I attach the liner to the concrete?
<Best to fashion a "lip" of sorts to hand the membrane in, pinch it to... and cap this with some sort of masonry with thin set mortar>
How should I deal with the flaps produced when folding into the corners of the pond?
<Try to "fold them in, leaving a bit loose at the top... though all will stretch and largely lay flat on filling>
Thanks in advance,
Brian Lee
<Welcome my friend down under. Bob Fenner>

Fixing pond leaks   9/5/06
Hi, I have a small outdoor pond that is old and cement.  It has  cracks.  
What filler can I use under water and wet that won't kill the  plants or fish?  
Geralin
<... No filler... need to remove all, repair... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/concrepart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Replacing Pond Liner:- What to do with existing fish?   4/18/06
To replace my pond liner I need to remove two 14 Inch Koi and 12 others sized 5 to 8 inches. I understand they will have to be put into a holding tank for about a week.    Is there any rule I could use to calculate how much water would be need to keep them alive for this period without any aeration system.   If not what can you suggest.
Ken Brown
<Mmm, the bigger the better... and covered! They can/will jump... out. And don't feed at all, really... but do need circulation, aeration... perhaps just a large "kiddie wading pool" (depth not important if protected from much of the elements (to reduce diurnal changes). Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/lnrspdabvh2o.htm
and the linked files at top. Bob Fenner>

Convert pool    4/4/06
Hello,
<Hi there>
            We are searching for help concerning my ailing mother's pool.  She is in poor health and needs to sell her home which has a neglected underground pool with a compromised water pump.  Unfortunately, she lives in Texas while I live in California.  Therefore, I have very little time in Texas to complete this project (approximately 3 weeks), and place the house on the market for her.  Do you have any ideas that can maximize my time and minimize the costs spent on this project?  Any suggestions you may have will be greatly appreciated.  With my utmost thanks.
<Can be done. Please see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/poolpdconvart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Sincerely,
            Dawna Kostrzewa

Pond repair  - 03/13/2006
Good morning
The water feature in our new house which of course is about 20 years old,
has not been used for quite some time.  Two of the three basins actually have been converted into flower beds.
The previous owner had apparently attempted to epoxy seal some areas, they
are covered with some type off shiny but brittle materials that doesn't adhere well to their underlying surface.
Thoroseal or liner, that is probably the question.
Thanks for your input,
Michael
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/concrepart.htm
and the files linked above.
You will likely want to consider building over the existing basin/s, liner... Bob Fenner>

Sealing edges of rubber liner fix  12/21/05
Hi,
  I live in NC and purchased 10 beautiful acres with a 50 year old, 1 acre pond on it. It is filled with runoff water. When It rains it fills up nicely , then after a few days the water level drops about 2-3 feet. I see where the water drains out on the backside of the 20 ft. wide dam. Large trees sat on top of the dam and spillway which I recently cut down. I do know the reason for the leaking is the large caverns these roots have caused. I can't afford to redo the whole pond and a farmer suggested laying a piece of 10' X 100' rubber liner across the dam area and down below the surface a few feet to stop leakage or cover holes. My question is, once I put this down and secure it with rocks here and there, won't water just seep under it around the edges and the leaking will continue just as bad as before?
<Likely so, yes>
Do you think this might slow it down to a natural leakage pace?
<Doubtful...>
By the way I do know cutting down the large trees will cause the roots to die and make more ways for water to escape, but the amount of leaves falling into the pond each year is tremendous and trees and root systems were hanging out over pond ready to one day fall in. I'm sure the leakage and/or holes is below the root balls sticking out. Please help, the few fish remaining need some deeper water to survive.
Becky
<Mmm, I suggest you "let your fingers do the walking"... have some local contractors (likely to be found under "landscaping" in the Yellow Page Directory)... and have them tell you your options. Maybe a clay-based material can be dished into your "over-burden" (the unconsolidated material on the pond bottom), or this overlain over the base of the liner on the dam... Bob Fenner> sp;

How to keep water in my pond  9/13/05
Hi
<Hello there>
I recently completed my pond project and tested it with water the  other day.
I laid about a 2 to 3 inches of concrete, spray painted it and then  sealed
it with 2 gallons of Behr concrete sealer. I let the sealer dry and  then
filled up the pond. It drained completely over night.
<Oops!>
Obviously the water  drained
through the concrete. I am looking for a way to seal my pond so that the  
water stays in and doesn't drain out. Can you give me any ideas.
Thank you
Rick
California
<There are a few approaches here... at this juncture you might try a different sealant... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/thoroselart.htm
and the linked files above.
Ultimately, you might want to go the route of applying a liner in this basin... ostensibly treating it as a hole... You will find articles, FAQs files on the WWM site, pond subweb re. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Pond Leakage  8/31/05
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have a small pond that was constructed with a concrete interior.  The pond is semi-circular with a radius of approx 7 ft.  I have a constant leakage that appears on the surrounding patio area.  I have utilized a swimming pool paint without success.  Understand that there are some paintable products on the market especially made for sealing on concrete surfaces that are completely submerged.  Please advise your recommendations for such products and a potential source.  I am located in Jacksonville, Fl.  Thanks!!!
<Please read here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/thoroselart.htm
and the linked files at top. Bob Fenner>

Leaking pond - am I hurting my fish refilling so often? 8/28/05
Hi,
<Hello there>
We've cleaned out and restocked a pond in our new house. It's approx.  10feet
by 5feet, and 3feet deep. It has a top level which waterfalls down to the  
larger lower level. We've put in a pump for the waterfall and a filter, loads of
plants and have 2 happy little goldfish.
Only problem is we have a slow leak in the liner somewhere as the outer  wall
(stone and mortar) is constantly wet and we're losing 3 - 4 inches a week.  
<Mmm... perhaps capillatory in nature... hard to fix...>
We've tried emptying the pond and found a tiny hole, which we repaired with a  
cycle repair kit on the advice of our local water centre. But either that
didn't  work or there's more holes!
<Or just a "damp" area twixt the liner and up...>
Anyway, time is short at the mo due to work, so we've just been refilling  every few days and as there's no time to reline it this year, that's our only  option - but is it harming my fish?????
<Mmm, not likely... in fact, replacing 3-4 inches per week of depth in a volume of this size is likely very helpful>
Very quick 2nd question, sorry - one of my goldfish seems to chase the  other
smaller one a lot.
<Happens>
At first I thought they were playing, but today I  noticed
light patches on the rear sides of the one that's being chased, where  the
nose of the chaser rubs his skin. Is this normal behaviour, are they  fighting, playing or even mating???
<Mostly the latter, the middle as practice... I would add a few more goldfish to diffuse the aggression here>
Thanks, Allison Franklin (UK novice pond keeper)
<Welcome, Bob Fenner, old-timer>

Have you heard of a powdered pond liner 8/17/05
I would like to know what this product is and how to use it. If you have any
information on it. I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Sylvia
<Mmm, there are materials like powdered lime, clays that are sometimes (though less frequently as time goes by) turned into existing soil to make a water-proof or more water-proof barrier... What is the application here? Something very large? Bob Fenner>

Re: Have you heard of a powdered pond liner 8/20/05
This stuff looks like sugar granules. You just put it in the pond and
circulate the water. And it stops the leaks. I put it in the pond today and the water
looks like syrup. I sure hope it settles.
Sylvia
<Yikes, I sure hope you read the instructions, precautions. Bob Fenner>

Cement Mortar
You recommended that cement mortar be used to construct ponds and falls.
Unfortunately I didn't and maybe you can advise what to do.
My questions are:
1) Can I apply a coat of cement mortar over DRYLOK? I made my pond with Quikrete Portland Mortar mix and it leaked, so I coated it with two coats of water-based UGL DRYLOK.
<Mmm, well, the new cement "plaster" coat will have to be thick "enough"... and I would add a white-glue binder to it... and I would use Dry Lok's "Etch" product per their instructions... it can be done, but... is there a reason?>
2) Are the Plastic Mortar drying characteristics similar to regular Portland mortar? Specifically, minimal shrinkage when drying?
<There is some to be expected, unfortunately... I would seek out the better "plastic" cements here... they have far less alkalinity, shrinkage...>
Any suggestions are welcome. I only wish I had read your website before building my pond.
Thanks in advance, Ed
<Mmm, am wondering what it is you hope to gain by coating over the Dry Lok... is it to add a color... if so, there are other ways... Is it because the basin/s are continuing to leak? Bob Fenner>