New Print and eBook on Amazon:   Anemone Success Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Anemone Disaster 7/6/05 Hi Guys! <<Hello Carrie>> Love the site as always... Its been very helpful. <<Thank you>> My tank is a 38 gal FOWLR and Live sand. Inhabitants were: 2 BTA's (originally had one, but it split smaller one was  about 1 inch) 1 tomato clown, 10 yrs old 1 yellow tail damsel, same 1 very small lionfish (purchased a few months  ago) 1 banded shrimp 1 skunk cleaner shrimp 6 hermits (blue leg and scarlet) 3 snails (unknown) Yesterday, I came home to discover the smaller anemone had  died so I scooped it up and removed it from the tank. Did a water test: 0  ammonia, 0 nitrites, 0 nitrates, ph 8.4, salinity .25 Did a 50% water change  although the water seemed to be fairly clear. Changed half of my carbon  cartridges in my power filters. Within hours my fish started breathing hard, so I did another  25% water change (I had run out of salt mix and not a pet store was  open). Woke up this morning to everything dead BUT the large  anemone (looks horrible though, but is still sticking to things) and the  hermits/snails. Funny, the water still tests normal, 0 on everything. They  water is terribly cloudy. I removed the hermits & snails and put them in my  quarantine tank. They seem to be doing fine. Fighting as usually and tearing up  the place ;0) I put the anemone in a bucket with a power filter... I'm sure  its on the decline and didn't want to add it to my QT tank since it had copper  safe in it at one time. My question is how do I go about starting over? I have read a  few conflicting opinions on the site and really couldn't find a whole lot of  specifics about what to do. If anything what should I toss? Will a 100% water  change alone be enough? Is it possible that the large anemone  released the toxins into my tank to kill everything or  could the little one alone be responsible? <<Not a good idea to keep an anemone in a small tank for just that reason...if the anemone dies it very quickly pollutes the tank.  My suggestion is to get some Chemi-Pure in place of the carbon, and let the tank go fallow for about 30 days.  I like to base stocking levels at one cubic inch of fish per five gallons of water.  Something to keep in mind on the future set up.  Full grown sizes must also be taken into consideration when selecting fish.  James (Salty Dog)>> Thanks for any input... Carrie <RMF would dump, bleach... rinse... re-set up. >
Anemone Disaster Follow-up 7/7/05 Hi James! <<Hello Carrie>> Thanks so much for the input.<<You're welcome>> I really appreciate the prompt  reply! I do know that my tank was overstocked...<<Indeed>> Unfortunately, I had  taken the advice of the employee at the LFS. She would have gladly sold me  more fish, telling me everything would be fine in my 38 gal along the way. <<Bad advice>>I  have since learned (by using WWM of course) that I might actually be more  knowledgeable than she is on a lot of subjects.. <<Agreed>> Now however, I am faced with a new dilemma. My large BTA,  which I thought was for sure a goner... Seems to be doing quite well in the  bucket of all things. It has opened back up partially, is quite securely  anchored to the bucket, and seems to still be a healthy brownish color, no  gaping mouth,  and no sign of disintegration.. As I mentioned before I had run out of salt mix.. So the water  in the bucket was siphoned from the display tank as it was coming out of one of  the power filters. I then added a hang on power filter to the bucket...  It  was the best I could do for what I had. Is it possible to do a major water change to the display tank,  add the Chemi-pure, and put the anemone back in for the 30 days (not adding any  new livestock) and see how it fares? <<Yes, try to match salinity and ph levels.>>I don't know what else to do with it..  My LFS wont take it. Thanks again! <<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>> Carrie

Condy Anemone - 07/11/05 I recently bought a Condy anemone and added to my collection of a BTA, sailfin tang, regal tang, copperband butterfly, diamond goby, algae blenny, serpent star along with several inverts and a few mushroom corals and button polyps. <<I hope this tank is a couple hundred gallons in size...>> I awoke the next morning to find that my Condy inevitably moved to my power head and is no longer with us today. <<Sadly...an all too common problem with motile inverts.>> The problem is that the next day all my fish showed very distressed breathing and the regal and butterfly have now died to the sailfin, goby, and blenny are doing somewhat okay still showing difficulty breathing, however all the inverts including the coral and BTA are doing just fine.  Could this outbreak of death and destruction be caused by the Condy dieing and possibly releasing a toxin into my tank. <<Strongly coincidental at the least.  I think a large water change/carbon filtration are in order here.  Eric R.>>
Anemone loss trouble in turn? Checking on the checkers on the checkers... 7/12/05 Bob, Was reading through the sent mail.  A query from Nathan on a "Condy Anemone".  Writer states Condy got stuck in power head and he lost it. Then, lost a couple sensitive fish the next day.  The writer asked if death could have been caused by toxins from the dead Condy.  Eric R. wrote "strangely coincidental".  My opinion is the death of the fish was caused by this.  Seen it too many times.  Agree? Regards, James (Salty) <Mmm, I'd almost bet Eric meant "strongly" rather than strangely. Eric? BobF> <<Hmm, yes...maybe my poor choice of wording.  I definitely meant to imply the incidents were very likely related.  Eric R.>>

Anemone stays upside down My Sebae looks so pretty when it's inflated but that's not very often. Most of the time it's inflated and sometimes on it's face. I have to Ocellaris that love the anemone but I'm afraid they're stressing it too much. < Very likely.  I would try putting a plastic basket (like the kind strawberries come in at the store) over the anemone keeping the fish out; to see if that makes a difference. > What can I do to help the anemone? < If that doesn't fix it, it is not a fish issue but a water quality issue.  In that case monitor your tank for changes.  Also, be sure the anemone has plenty of light and space around it. > Should i upright it when it's on it's face? < Tough call.  Usually I don't, but if it is still upside down after a few days, then yes I would try to help it out. > <  Blundell  >

Anemone - Dead and Dying Days.. >I have a new anemone and I'm concerned about it, they have odd behavior as it is but today I noticed it had what looked like gravel stuck to it and it has been tipped over on its side for several days... >>NEVER a good sign. >...so I picked it up to move it, and what looked like gravel seem to be mush, almost like it has busted open on the orange part of it's "body" I have a few blue legged hermit crabs and 3 star fish could they have harmed the anemone? What should I do? KJ >>Not at all likely to blame it on the other inverts, MUCH more likely that water quality, possibly combined with mishandling, has ensured its demise. Remove it NOW, it is a "goner". Marina 
Anemone, Dead and Dying Days... Follow-up >Marina, I appreciate your quick response. >>Most welcome. >I came home after work and it was tossed, I must tell you that I have not touched it since I put it into the tank, and my water was tested the day that I bought it, all was ok. >>Different species have differing requirements, not to mention the importance of acclimation. IF the water is pristine, NSW (near sea water) in quality, a small tear can be healed. Unfortunately, hobbyists and fish shops cannot always test for everything that affects such delicate creatures. >But I have added 3 new fish... >>At the same time, sans quarantine? I don't recollect you mentioning the size of the tank, water parameters, etc., but with the exception of very large systems (large to us, that is), even three small fish can bring about just enough of an upset to push the more delicate species right over the edge. Please do quarantine. >...and I do have 2 other anemones, one is doing great and the other one I have had for 6-7 months and is very small, that one seems to move around a lot and does not open up much. >>Do use our Google search tool, it's important that you know what species you have so that you can best provide for their needs - not all anemones are created equal. One that moves around may be in search of something: better flow, better light, better food, better digs... >But it looks somewhat healthy too. I bought 2 clownfish (percula) in the hopes that they would take to one of them.  >>Never predictable, and if tank-bred/raised, they seem to "forget" what anemones are for. >I'm new at the anemone thing. Any suggestions?? Thank you, KJ >>Oh yes, use our Google tool, read all you can. Know what you have, and read up on them. Take care mixing, especially different species, go from there. Marina 
Anemone Dead and Dying Days Follow-up >Marina, >>Karol.. >Inventory of livestock is as follows: 1 neon Dottyback (tank raised) 1 canary wrasse 2 percula clowns (tank raised) 1 lyretail Anthias 1 longnose hawk All aprox 1 inch in size with exception of the lyretail, almost 2 inches. 3 starfish all caught in the Keys. I have never actually Identified them, they are bumpy and a gold/brown color I have had them for over two years. And a few very small blue legged hermit crabs. My tank is a 45 gal tall with 2 of the largest Emperors (forgive me). I have never invested in a wet/dry but to be honest I have done very well with the system I have. >>Emperor FILTERS (better clarify for readers), not Emperor angels! This is a perfectly good filter, and if it works, well then, hey. However, this size tank is a little on the small size for most all anemones that Clownfishes host. I will highly recommend that you go with the bubble tip anemone - they're being "bred" (asexually) in captivity, have pretty darn good survival rates, but can (and do) become rather large. Also, don't mix anemones (mobile invertebrates) with sessile invertebrates. >Water quality has always been good. Have it checked when I do my water changes, which can vary. but I usually do them every other month. >>You'll likely need to be a bit more stringent with this schedule when you acquire another anemone. Know also - hobbyists and fish shops simply cannot test for all that affects the quality of water. >I am going to do a small (10%)water change today, the anemone left some undesirable debris behind. >>Personally, I'd do a minimum 30% water change, even if the remaining inhabitants appear healthy. Dead anemones really do a number on water quality. >I think my biggest mistake was not checking into the anemone that I bought first. Like so many saltwater aquarist I get impulsive....bad move I know. >>Lessons learned, yeah? >Again, thank you for your timely response and your good advice. Do you ever go home?? Have a nice day. KJ >>I "work" from home, remember, we're an all-volunteer service. Pretty neat, I'm sitting here looking at my snowy back yard with a cup of coffee. Take care, and do that research on the anemones, look into the BTA I suggest. Marina P.S. Remember to learn about acclimation procedures for invertebrates! 

Anemone Hi, A general questions here - how do I know if an anemone is dead? About half of its tentacles are flat, and the mouth is wide and gaping, about 1.5 inches or more in diameter. Is he dead?  <It sure doesn't sound good. Is the pedal disc tightly adhered to whatever it's on? If not, I would get it out of the tank as soon as possible. Dead anemones can cause big time problems. James (Salty Dog)>
Anemone - II It's still moving about, slowly moving down to the substrate.  Sometimes the tentacles get fatter, sometimes flat again and it still "cling" when I touch it so I think he's still alive. I just don't know what he would look like if he died, would he still "cling"? Also, he isn't really eating, tried putting a piece of shrimp in his tentacle...he held on for a while and then just let go of it. What should I do?  <Chances are it's just moving to a different area. Anemones will do that at times and they don't usually eat when they do this. They will start getting a slightly pale color when they are on their way out, and, if that happens you will want to get him out of the tank. You will never smell anything more gross than a dead anemone and you DO NOT want it to die in the tank. Good luck. James (Salty Dog)>

Ritteri Anemone Hello Mr. Fenner, <James here for Bob> I addressed this to you because my wife wrote you a while back ago about a Ritteri we purchased. It is still alive and of course did okay for awhile. The anemone is in a 29 gal with 2 Maroon clowns at this time. I am putting finishing touches on my 300  gal. (Let it cycle). I change water every week. Parameters are fine. There is 130 watt P.C. on it right now. It has attached to the side of the tank (Which I know this is normal) but it never did climb to the top like they do. It stayed in the main flow of the pump which is about 400gph. When purchased, it Had a good looking toe. No rips or tears or signs of healing from tears. When purchased It was on a flat rock. I wouldn't take it with out it. The mouth was tight and closed, no gaping. The mouth is still in great shape. I tried feeding it , it eats once in awhile for me, but the clowns spit Mysis, nd Spirulina flakes in the middle. It closes up and digests and then opens up. Now here is the problem, The toe started to turn whitish, on the part that sticks to the glass. Then it got concave like ( In the middle it is detached from the glass, but the ends are still attached to glass). The past dew days it has not fully opened and falls almost all the way off the glass. (Here is the funny part- not so funny) At night 30 minutes after the main lights are out, moon lights on, it re- attaches to the glass all the way. It stays there until the main lights go back on during the day time. It is almost like the light is too much for it, I did not think that was possible. Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20. I do add Iodine,<you need to test for levels of iodine.  Too much can be harmful.  It is hard to know how much of this the animals absorb.> Vitamins (To water) and Iodide. I have a sump rated for 180 gal. and a protein skimmer. I do notice the Maroon clowns, especially the female, really is very rough with it, but boy you stick your hand in there for cleaning and forget it. She broke my plastic spoon, and before she laid eggs last month she re-arranged the tank moving rocks 3x her size. I called my local fish store and they have no clue. They told me when it dies they could get me another one. That's a real great response!, how does that help this one. Anyway do you have any suggestions, I have never seen a anemone act like this. <I do think your lighting is borderline for this anemone.  They do require strong lighting and water motion.  They generally do poorly in the home aquarium but with care and proper conditions some have lived for years.  What I would start doing is a 10% water change with an enriched salt mix such as Reef Crystals, make sure that iodine level is safe and keep the light on for 12 hours per day.  Cut out direct feedings for a while since it sounds like the clowns are giving it enough.  The anemone does provide a great deal of it's own food by photosynthesis providing the lighting is intense enough.  What type of filtering are you using?  James (Salty Dog)> Thanks, Scott
Confused about Ritteri Anemone Thanks for Answering James, The filter is just a standard sump with a Euro-Reef Skimmer. I think this anemone has had it though. I came home from work, it was off the tank and on a rock. It 's toe was still sticky, and stays stuck, it does not smell but the mouth is wide open and gaping with a look that is starting to crumble. I do not thing it is going to last long though. <Scott, you need to get it out of the tank before it does die or you will have a mess my friend.  Good luck.  James (Salty Dog) Scott
Ritteri Anemone Trouble Yes I was feeding it 3 times a week, The lights were new, 1 Antic. I pulled it out the mouth was did not look good and it was fouling the tank. It was Gone and nothing I could do. I just do not know what happened to it. I do use a protein skimmer and getting good stuff out of it. and in All my tanks I faithfully do 20% a week, including my 180, and my 300. I haven't missed a water change in 2 years. I always add my supplements. The food was Chopped up krill, with chopped silversides and other mix. Thanks for your help, but I do not think it was meant to be. The Maroons look lost. I think they were wild caught. I have had them a year. they lay eggs, they hatched a few times but did not live. I just do know what kind of anemone to get them anymore. I had a nice bubble tip In there with them, but It was too small. They beat the heck out of it, It almost died but I moved it to another tank and it is doing really well. The problem is the female is about 7" and very aggressive and protective of her anemone. I barely could stick my hands in the tank to clean it. Thank you for your time.<Hello Mr. Zielgler.  One thing to keep in mind.  Anemones are not easy to keep.  First of all, they don't ship well and that adds to problems from the start.  You must have done your homework on anemone/clown relationship since the Ritteri is the anemone of choice for the Maroon Clown with the bubble tip being second and long tentacle anemone (Macrodactyla doreensis) being runner up. The use of metal halide lighting is preferable for the ritteri.  PC lighting is acceptable for the bubble tip providing your tank is not deep. You certainly are doing things right but you are just experiencing what many of us have and that is realizing most anemones can't be kept in a closed system for any long term duration. Every now and then a lucky aquarist will get one that does exceptionally well under proper conditions. James (Salty Dog) Scott

- Anemone Losing Tentacles - Hello and thank you in advance for your assistance. I have what was sold to me as a captive bred rose anemone.  It is  housed in my 110 gallon reef tank that is lit with two (2) 250 watt 10,000 k  halides and two (2) 55 watt pc actinics.  I have had the animal for over  one (1) year and it seems to be thriving.  It has quadrupled it's size,  hosts a pair of true percula's that spawn ever 4-5 weeks like clockwork, and has  never wandered.  Part of my daily routine involving my tank, is to spend 5  minutes or so observing it after the lights have gone out.  Tonight when I  checked on my tank, I noticed two of the anemone's tentacles no longer  attached to the anemone.  One was on the substrate and the other on a piece  of live rock on the opposite side of the tank.  The anemone itself still  seems healthy and no different than any other night.  Have you  ever heard of this happening and should I be concerned. <I've not heard of this before... and I'm hoping that perhaps the reduced light is causing you to misidentify perhaps a worm as a loose tentacle. Is just a guess really, but the alternative seems too odd to be true.> I truly hope this is not the beginning of the end. <Me as well... could also be it's getting ready to split - in half, make two of itself.> Thank you for any answers you may  have, and if it would help, I can take and attach photographs for your review. <If you prefer... just don't make them too large.> Thank you for again for your anticipated assistance. Michael J. <Cheers, J -- >
Re: anemone losing tentacles So this morning and throughout today, the anemone looked fine. It fully inflated and ate it's Sunday brunch of scallop. Seeing it in full light, it definitely lost two (2) tentacles. The flaccid tentacles were lying on the substrate (which I just realized I ought to have removed from the tank) and the spots where they were lost on the anemone were identifiable but seem to have "healed." After I sent you guys my nervous E-mail last night I scoured the web for some reference to this type of occurrence but found nothing, nor was there any reference in any of the books I have. <Is strange> I hate not knowing what this is, especially if there is something I could or should be doing to help. If you have any further thoughts please let me know. Thanks again!  Michael S. Jacobs <Anemones can anastomize (toss off, sort of like some lizard's tails) tentacles that are damaged... Bob Fenner>

Re: a mariners worst nightmares #2 Thank you for your input and help. this is the latest inventory list as of today 1 porcupine puffer 2.5" 1 snowflake eel 8" is incoming and a Sebae anemone the Sebae is doing well in a quarantine tank with the puffer I have left the 55 gallon display tank fallow and will keep it so for 2.5 more weeks for a total of 4 weeks before I do a vacuuming and 80% water change and putting in 2 damsels in for testing quality and lack of disease. <Good moves> my question is how can I keep the anemone for expelling what symbiotic algae it has (its a very light brown color in small spots) when I have to transfer it, I put it in a container while the bucket and the Sebae were in the tank and wore latex gloves (no powder) to lift it and its LR base, I moved it next to the quarantine tank which is not dealing with any ich or other problems and then put in a 1/4 cup of the q/t tanks water in per 15min, for 1 hour before moving it in after submerging it in its bucket so it never touched air.  it still lost its color though it seems. <Happens... hopefully it will reincorporate zooxanthellae and recolor> it is spreading out and eating well, but I know it doesn't do well during a move and it will starve slowly if it doesn't get its algae back.  it is still attached to the LR and is eating phytoplankton and cubed squid shrimp & bloodworms.  I read your FAQs about its care but didn't see any info on how to properly move them when its an emergency (had to remove the heater in its tank after it broke) and couldn't replace it. <There is no actual "way" other than about what you've done> thanks for the help on the previous problem., I changed LFS  to another in town which was much more helpful in getting everything set up and fixing the inventory problem with trades for credit they examined the dead angel and said it was covered in marine velvet and the head spot was as well, but I do agree that there were too many fish at full size but had no idea at no less than 4 gallons a fish (around 10.5 inches fish total) would throw everything off.   <Yes... psychologically... and these would have grown if they had lived to a few feet total...> it wasn't going to be a long term situation but its obvious now (20/20 hindsight) that it was stupid.  thank you for your time and any help you can offer on the anemone.  I know its a difficult invert to keep. the lighting is around 100 watts, if I increase the brightness though the anemone closes up.  thanks again. Justin <Take your time here. Bob Fenner>

LTA quarantine I have searched your info and can't seem to find quarantine procedure for anemones, if their is one. <Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anempt2.htm> I have bought a LTA and the LFS is holding it until I find out a correct quarantine procedure--I seem to know more about fish than the LFS if you catch my drift--which is scary.  I consistently quarantine my new fish and would like some help on this anemone.  Please advise.  Thanks <Bob Fenner>

Sick Anemone 12/27/04 This picture is of the base of our LTA:   http://www.reefaquariumguide.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=15071  Seemed to be doing great until yesterday, when he started shrinking dramatically.  We had noticed some gray matter on the base for the last few days and thought it was because the clowns were picking at the base, so we moved the anemone to the other side of the tank and the clowns left it alone for a few days.  Now the Anemone seems to be really struggling and has developed blisters.  The man at the LFS suggested we put him in a glass so that the "sores" might be protected, but as soon as we did that, the anemone started looking worse.  Is there any hope?  Thanks for any help.  Mark <Without knowing how long you have had this anemone, It is hard to guess it's fate.  Please remove it from the glass (which will impede water flow), and refrain from any further handling.  The clowns will not cause further injury.  If you have not done so, please review the WWM sections on anemone selection and care.  They are among the most difficult animals to maintain.  Best Regards.  AdamC.>

Anemone problems G'day there Been looking thru your extensive database and has helped me many times in the past , thank you all for that. recently acquired four skunk clowns and two 12" anemones from Vanuatu ( going by descriptions they appear to be pacific LTA , but not ... one is mushroom/tan colored with purple tips , the other is slightly darker with more pointed tips with no purple .. they spent the required 3 weeks quarantine ( NZ rules ) , to my luck I was able to select them personally and looked for all the obvious signs ...  they sat in a 180 ltr 3ft tank bare of anything but 3 powerheads ( 2 air assisted , all covered ) + a heater... have been doing weekly water changes of 100 ltrs , the only readings with appear are slight ammonia ( obviously ) as there is no bio , ( I have 20 kg of base rock cycling in a separate 300 ltr 4ft tank ) so cant really do much till that finishes..... lighting consists of only 2 fluoro's ( actinic + full ) on for 14 hours per day ( have added bonus of sunlight for 5 hours in the morning ) try to keep algae down to minimize ph drop at night... been in the tank for  about 2 weeks , all going fine , anemones reacting to Mysis added by moving and expanding even more than they where... now the odd thing , passed on the darker anemone to a mate who has a 5.5 ft tank , been running for about 4 months , only livestock are 2 damsels , percula and banded shrimp a couple of soft corals ( doing fine) but he has a unknown factor of adding NZ native species ( snails, shrimps fanworms, anemones etc) but not with much luck on the survival rate. now this is the odd thing , the anemone was in the tank for about 4 days slowly opening up , the last night it was fully inflated but next morning totally deflated and starting to decay , by the afternoon it had fallen apart when they tried to move him/it/she/entity? out of a crevice it was swept in by the current. the only other things to add are that the percula wasn't interested becoming mates and the banded shrimp was continually walking over it... all the water readings where fine except a slight nitrate reading and his lighting consists of 2 actinics and 3 full spectrum that have to punch thru 2 ft of water << Still doesn't sound like much light.  But it may be enough. >> . as for my anemone , he's still doing fine and the only issue I have now is separating the dominant skunk pair from the others ( ever tried to do that when they all have a foot long anemone to hide in !? ) ..  I also have  a white anemone with purple tips in my first reef ( garden reef ) tank and under 2 full spec , 2 actinic and 1 14000 k halide is happy as BOB.... Sorry for yappin' on for soo long but my last question is this , while diving on the Great barrier reef in OZ and off the east and west coasts of Thailand I have noticed several species of clowns sharing the same anemone , can this be done in an aquarium?. << Yes.  But in the wild that may be out of limited living space.  If there were more anemones they may spread out.  So it may be possible in an aquarium, but I'd think you are better off getting them to host in xenia and other soft corals. >> that's for puttin' up with this .... cheers << Don't know if I have much insight on the anemones.  Stress from moving is always a problem.  Other things like a tear in their foot can be unseen but eventually cause fatal problems.  Good luck. >> Klay. <<  Blundell  >>

What to do with a dying anemone? 11/27/04 I had a Condy anemone which became all shriveled up.  There it sat tiny and unmoving on the bottom of the tank for days, getting smaller and smaller, until it reached less than one inch.  I thought it was hopeless and needed to be thrown out.   <Yikes! Remind me never to sleep deeply as a guest in your house <G>> My boyfriend said we should keep it around a few more days because it could improve.   <agreed... sort of> I felt that throwing it out was the best thing because it  could be releasing toxins into the water, even in the case that it wasn't totally dead. <er... ah... no.> He didn't think that it would release toxins until it was dead for a while.   <about so, but not the real issue here> To me even if it was still alive, it was as good as dead and toxic. <have faith... this animal is not dying (when they die, they deteriorate in hours for having so little solid tissue).> Please settle this dispute for us, who was right? Thank you very much! Ali <the ill-purchased anemone is likely suffering from a lack of light (5 watts per gallon minimum over the tank), excessive nitrates (over 40 ppm) and/or lack of feeding (never feed large chunks of food, but do offer finely minced meats 3-5 times weekly). My guess is that yours is suffering from some or all of these things. If so, please be sure to research animals better before you buy them to be sure you know and can provide for their needs. We have extensive archives/FAQs on this subject here at WetWebMedia.Com if you'll take the time to read them. My advice here is for you to donate this coral to a LFS or another aquarist better able to provide for it unless you are interested in providing reef-aquarium quality light, water flow and feeding for this anemone. best regards, Anthony>

Help with anemone my anemone got sucked in my filter and I removed it some of it got torn off and now the anemone is in a ball like stage some tentacles are shriveled up and the others are plump on the one side still but it has turned a green color and I'm wondering if its dying or can I save it <Maybe> the clown tries to play with it still but it wont open it is laying side ways on the bottom and the torn off piece is on a rock will the 2 pieces die or will they survive what can I do to fix this I need help on this one thanks Mary <Do keep an eye on your other livestock... and water quality (by testing)... remove and keep this animal in a separate system if you can, have a quarantine/hospital tank... there is no use in using "medicines" here. Put the terms "damaged" and "anemone" in the Google search tool on the homepage of www.WetWebMedia.com  for much more re others experiences here... and for sure, get and place screens over your pump/filter intakes. Bob Fenner>

Rose bulb anemone I have had a rose bulb anemone for about 2 months now in my 15 gallon eclipse. I have taken out the light that was in the hood and replaced it with an 18 inch 96 watt compact fluorescent  lamp. I have the original eclipse pump and an extra one for more current. I keep the light on for 10 hours and feed it once a day with about four frozen krill.  <Might want to increase the photoperiod by an hour or so.  Also, make sure not to feed the anemone large chunks, mince them into pieces about 1\4th inch in size> Over the last two months my anemone has lost its bubble tips and they have become long and I think that it is not as bright in color as it used to. I have tried increasing the amount of food, but it stops taking it after four krill. What can I do to return it back to its health and replenish its bulbs? <Annoyingly enough, this is very common in BTA's, and there seems to be no apparent reason for why they lose their bubbles and sometimes change color.  It doesn't seem to have anything to do with food, or lighting. <<Does have a great deal to do with a lack of circulation/current. RMF>>  My water quality seems to have an impact on my BTA's bubbles (when I do frequent water changes it seems to bubble more) and possibly with water current.  Mine doesn't bubble nearly as much as it used to either, though.  It's  not a sign of an unhealthy animal, so I wouldn't worry too much about it> Sincerely,                 John Sorkness <M. Maddox>

Condylactis anemone Hello and I thank you in advance for your help!! My husband and I set up our salt water tank about 6 months ago.  It is a 29gal.  We used live sand and live rock... we have 2 damsels, 2 emerald crabs, 4 hermit crabs, a cleaner shrimp, a clownfish and an anemone.. a Condy (I think).  The anemone has a orange/peach body with white tentacles that have a small purple dot on the tip of each tentacle.  << Sounds like it. >> For the first few days it looked perfect.  We test our water regularly and find no major shifts or abnormal levels.  But one morning I woke up to find it had unattached itself from a piece of rock and fell behind the rocks.  It was completely withered.  It looked very dead.  My husband picked it up and moved it to the center of the tank where the lights are bright and by the next morning it looked perfect again.  We thought it was a one time event due to temperature...It was up to 80 due to the heat turning on in the house.  (First cold night of Fall and we failed to think to adjust the tank heater.)  But within a week I noticed it withers again.  It has continued to wither every few days.  We have fed him several times and for the most part appears very healthy.  But he continues to wither often. Please help us... we have tried to figure out what we are doing wrong or if the anemone is unhealthy and should be removed from our tank.  << Well the biggest question is what type of lights you have?  I have a 29 gal with two 150 watt halides.  I'd recommend at least four 55 watt pc lights in that tank. >> Our local fish shop says it is normal, but I can't see how this is normal. << My Condy does the same thing.  But it withers once every few months, so this may be a problem. >>   I thank you again for your time and help in solving our withering anemone mystery. << Please check lighting requirements and see if that is the problem. >> Becki Varner <<  Blundell  >>

Sebae Anemone Hi, <Hello there> I've tried to look up as many articles as possible, however I haven't really found a full answer to my question. <Go on> I had 3 false Percula clowns...I believe my new sebae anemone ate it as it was the clown that had really taken to the anemone that was eaten. <I see> I've only had it for a couple of weeks. Since it "ate" the clown fish...it's been tipped over sitting on its side and really not looking healthy at all. I've checked the water and the levels seem to be fine. I've also cleaned up the water so that it doesn't choke on its own waste. <Cleaned up? It is a good idea to remove solid waste (after the anemone disgorges it), but they don't like sudden or large changes in their environment> I have a standard two ft tank and have one fluorescent and one blue light as the pet shop lady told me that coral and anemone really love the light so I hope it's not too bright. <Mmm, take a read through WetWebMedia.com  re this species (actually Heteractis crispa)... they require a surprisingly intense quantity of light... is yours "bleached out?"... that is, white or whitish with pink to purple tips at the ends of its tentacles? It may be impugned from its collection and shipping ahead of your purchase... very common> Can you please let me know if this is normal behavior for an anemone to be rolled over like that? Thanks Cheryl <Not normal... not healthy. Though almost all "giant anemone" species/specimens that live in conjunction with Clownfishes do have periods of more or less tumescence, they should not be flaccid... for any period of time. A warning sign. Again, there is too much to convey to you in this space, time. Please read through the articles and FAQs files archived on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Helping a damaged anemone 9/30/04 Hi, this is Carlos D?z from Guatemala, it is always a pleasure surf your site! <a pleasure for us to hear from far away friends too... cheers Carlos> Let me tell you my case: I bought a long tentacle anemone.  After a week in my tank the anemone was sucked by one power head (Now I fix it with a proper canister and mesh in the intake of the powerhead to avoid this problem).  The anemone looks horrible, but I decided to keep it and try to recover it.  The anemone shrinks for at least 4 days, but after that it start to open again and now, three months after the accident, the anemone is full open. but whitening, there is something I can do to help to recover its zooxanthellae algae? water conditions: PH 8.2/8.4, ammonia, nitrite, 0, nitrate 5. temp. 77?F Thank you very much <you have long since overcome the worst of it all... no worries. This anemone can easily recover. The key is to feed it small portions of food regularly (several times weekly with minced meats of marine origin) until its zooxanthellae recover. You will see the anemones white body take on an "ugly" blotchy or "bruised" appearance when the symbiotic algae come back - again, no worries and best of luck! Anthony>

Red Rose Anemone Hello,<Hi Patrick, MacL here with you today.> I am a lurker of your website and really enjoy all the information it has to give. I am writing you today in concerns to my red rose anemone. I am new to the hobby of saltwater but I have a great amount of experience in freshwater. I have enclosed some pictures of my anemone, I was a little concerned for his health. When I purchased him (about a week ago) he was very tiny in his tank, but when I got him home and put him in mine, he opened up to almost triple in size! I continued to monitor my water parameters and feed him and my feather duster phytoplankton every other day, while I continued to feed my Lionfish and Clownfish krill everyday. Until the last couple of days he seems to have gotten sick or maybe he is dying?<Actually it looks to me like he is digesting food> I am not sure, frankly I am a little scared. My clownfish loves him, as you can see in my photos, and he refuses to leave him. I don't want him to die. So my question is, does what you see in the picture look normal, if not what is wrong and what can I do? I tried feeding him some brine shrimp when he was totally open and he more then happily accepted. But that was two days ago, and he hasn't really opened back up since then. <Does he seem to be disintegrating? Falling apart? It looks more to me like he's drawn in while he's digesting from a good brine shrimp meal.> Please help me, and I am apologize for the lengthy question. Thanks in advance. <Patrick keep a close eye on him but honestly I think you are just fine in this case. MacL> Patrick <<This is a H. magnifica, not BTA. B>>

Saving an anemone 9/20/04 I looked all over your site for some help, but kept coming up empty.  I have a rock anemone that looks like its on its way out.  Its lost all it's zooxanthellae...  Looks bleached with light green tips.   <this animal needs to be fed and fed often... several times weekly... to save it and maintain it. If it hasn't been getting this sort of feeding up to now, it is the reason for the poor health in large part at least> The problem is:  He is in a hole in a rock about his circumference  in the back of my tank.  He moved there during a power outage.  The rock is a base rock for my reef.  If I remove the rock, a lot of other problems will ensue.  Any suggestions? <for now focus on feeding it... use a feeding tube (soft tubing and a plunging syringe for food slurries/paste> Right now he "shriveled" up in the hole. Chris <I see from your e-mail addy you are from Kentucky? Have you visited the local club LMAS.org? Please do so if not... very good fellowship to be had in local clubs. Anthony>  

Bleached anemone... needs help 9/17/04 Crew, If you would be so kind as to identify the anemone in the attached photo? It appears to me to be a Condylactis, but my Cinnamon clown (Amphiprion melanopus) loves to hang out in it and he is only supposed to like bubble tip anemone (Entacmaea). What do you think? <the anemone clearly is a bleached bubble-tip anemone: Entacmaea quadricolor> It was sold to me as a bubble tip (with the rock). David A. Bidwell <the ID was correct... although this anemone is EXTREMELY unhealthy... bleached of all zooxanthellae and soon to be dead (months) if it does not get some very regular feedings from you - finely minced meats of marine origin several times weekly or near daily. Thawed Mysid shrimp and Pacifica plankton are a good start. Anthony><<Dyed and bleached... B>>

Anemone's dying from some green stuff Hello Again Crew, << Blundell here. >> Back for more advice. About 4 months ago I had purchased 2 LTA for my clowns. The reason I had bought them is The person I had got the clowns from were in a anemone. I know they do not need the anenomes to survive, however Because they were use to the anemone the previous owner had, They were going into my corals and Damaging them. The anenomes were doing great, water parameters were excellent. I was feeding them chopped up shrimp, Live food and all the other foods . They were always full and open. 3 days ago 1 of them turned over and it had a lot of funny growth and stuff on the toe. The gunk was like green bunches of something I never saw and some white swirl corkscrew shaped stuff. It was literally coming out of the toe. It died 2 days later. A day from that one getting it, The second one had started to get the same thing, It to perished a few days later. Do you know what this could be? << No idea, but it doesn't sound good. >> I did not have a camera to take a picture so I know It is tough to say. One more question. On the other side of this 8 ft. tank is a Malu Sebae, It now has moved to the same corner the LTA were at. Will this anemone die from the same thing. << Doubtful, but I'd still make sure it has plenty of water flow and light.  I also wouldn't feed it directly right now. >> Right now it is doing good, the clowns are now in it, These clowns will go in anything, They were in my frog Spawn until they saw the Sebae. I asked the local fish store what this could be and they looked stumped and stated it could have been Bad anenomes to start with. << Possible. >> I didn't have the heart to tell them I got them from him. When I purchased them, I checked the toe for color, and tears, and the mouths were tight and closed. I did notice the corner all the anenomes seem too favor has thousands of Copepods crawling around, I don't know if they can damage the anenomes or not. << I would doubt it. >> Thank you in advance for your help, << The big question is... is it something in the tank that they are consuming, or is it a problem with something in the water affecting them?  Unfortunately I don't you'll find out, and will just have to count this as a loss and try again in several months. >> Scott <<  Blundell  >> <Damaged in collection likely... Doomed. B>

Parasites in an anemone? Hello,     I was checking out my new prize LT tonight and saw these little black things. At first I thought it was some detritus that got caught in the tentacles, but on closer inspection I realized these little black things were actually INSIDE the tentacle tissue. Then I thought maybe they were just some discoloration, but no... the things were moving and crawling around in there!! << Cool... I guess. >> They can move up to the tip or they can crawl down, all the way into the flesh of the disc... they really creep me out! I am praying they are some kind of symbiotic creature and nothing truly harmful (but they mar the beauty of the anemone and are gross!). There are about ten of these, of varying sizes living in different places in my anemone.  They vary in size between just hatched baby brine shrimp size up to sesame seed size.     I've never seen ANYTHING like this before and suspect that very few folks have... but I'm hoping someone at WWM help or point me in the right direction. << Can it be food?  Is it something the anemone ingested?  No idea here. >> I had no idea that anemones could harbor internal parasites, but apparently than CAN and DO! Can anyone help me identify these things?? << A detailed pic could really help. >> Also, how does one go about treating an invertebrate for parasites anyway?  << You don't.  I wouldn't do anything, because if it is bad you can make things worse. >> Or is this something I needn't be concerned about? << Personally I wouldn't worry at all. >> Here is as close as I can get with my camera.  The picture shows one of the largest ones and a smaller one to the right. << Unable to open any attachments.  Please try again. >> Thank you!! Julie <<  Blundell  >>
Re: A Question about Internal Sea Anemone Parasites Hello Blundell,    Thanks for attempting to help.  There is no way these things are food the anemone has eaten, since they do crawl around rather quickly, quite like ants. << Totally bizarre. >> They only crawl forward (i.e. if they are going up the tentacle and want to head back down, the bug pivots until it is facing down before proceeding).  Here is the picture again.  I doubt it will help though.  The only way to get a clear picture would be to lop off a tentacle and dissect it to remove the parasite :( << That is cool thing to try.  Right now many people are experimenting with photographing through microscopes and magnifying glasses. This time the picture worked.  I'm still unsure, and will be passing this to Bob and Calfo to see if they've seen it before.  Still wouldn't worry me. >> Julie <<  Blundell  >><They call him "Blunder ALL!>

Anemone opening and closing mouth Hi there, thank you for all the help you provided me in the past. I have a problem with my BTA and I need your help. my tank 33gal it has been set up for 6 months now. Ammonia 0 , nitrite 0.1 (Its been there since my tank done cycle), nitrate 0,ph 8.2 , temp 75F.This anemone has been in my tank for 2 weeks and it hasn't been moving since day1.It was placed in th center under 150w 10k MH (Sylvania bulb). When I first bought there were a lot of missing tentacles .However, it start growing new once. I have noticed something, the mouth is a little bit open some times it is tightly closed but some times its a bit open(1cm x 1cm) it seems to be doing well .Am feeding  daily 1/4 inch of shrimp. Should I be worried? << Not really, but that sounds like a lot of feeding. >> Fish : 1 devil damsel, I will be adding couple of clowns next week. inverts : banded shrimp, few star fish, baby sea urchin (sp?). Corals : Bubble coral, few mushrooms, plate coral, xenia, star polyps. << If it is growing new tentacles, and isn't moving around, I'd say it is doing just fine. >> <<  Blundell  >>