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FAQs on Anemone Health 8 Related
Articles:
Anemones,
Bubble Tip Anemones, LTAs,
Cnidarians, Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs:
Anemone Health 1,
Anemone Health 2, Anemone Health 3,
Anemone Health 4,
Anemone Health 5, Anemone Health 6,
Anemone Health 7, Anemone Health 9,
& By Genus,
Species: Condylactis Disease,
Sebae Disease, LTA Disease,
Magnificent Anemone Disease,
BTA Disease, Carpet Anemone
Disease,
TWA Anemone Disease,
Sebae Disease,
LTA Disease, Magnificent Anemone
Disease, &
Cnidarian Disease,
Anemones, Anemones 2,
LTAs,
Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis,
Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and
Clownfishes,
Anemone Reproduction,
Anemone Identification, Anemone
Compatibility,
Anemone Behavior,
Anemone Selection,
Anemone Placement, Anemone
Feeding, Anemone Systems, Anemone
Lighting, | 
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Anemone Fading Quickly, More Information Needed - 11/20/07 <Hello
Amber, Brenda here> We are new to this fish tank thing and are
getting by very well so far. We have had the tank for maybe 5 or 6
months. The salt and nitrates are at a good level. <I need actual
numbers here.> We have a 40gal tank, with live and dead rock. My
boyfriend does water changes every couple weeks with a vacuum thing.
There are about 8 blue leg hermits, 2 larger hermits (don't know the
name), <This is too many for a 40 gallon tank. I am not a big fan of
hermit crabs, but if you must, no more than one per 10 gallons. Keep an
eye on them, they are known to kill small fish, snails, polyps, and
pester anemones.> 2 Nassarius snails, a scooter blenny, the pink tip
anemone, <Your tank is a bit small for an anemone, and borderline in
age. It is best to have an established aquarium, 6 months to one year
old. One year is best. Do you have a sump? If so, how big? What species
is the anemone?> a sponge, and we just traded our 1 yellow tail
damsel and 2 sapphire damsels in for yellow fox face. <A 40 gallon is
much too small for a fox face.> But any way back to the question. The
anemone keeps shriveling up and going inside of itself. Is that normal?
<No, it is stressed! It likely won’t last long unless you find and fix
the problem immediately. Anemones are difficult to keep. I don’t
recommend keeping them until you have a full understanding of their
care.> For a couple of days the sponge and the anemone were stuck to
one another is that ok? <No, a sponge can be quite toxic.> And it
can't seem to find a place that it likes to be... It keeps hiding in the
rock sometimes where there really isn't too much light, is that bad for
it? Any solutions? <I need more information. In addition to the above
questions, I need your exact water parameter, including salinity,
temperature, nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, calcium and alkalinity. I also
need to know what lighting and skimmer you are using. How much flow in
the tank? I need to know the species of the anemone. Was this anemone
shipped? What lighting was it kept under previously? How long have you
had the anemone? What are you feeding it?> Thanks, Amber
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Exploding Anomone <Anemone>... An Out of Body Experience for Our
Readership... 7/22/07 HI. <Hello, Mich here today.> I
am new to saltwater tanks. I have one set up for about three months now.
It contained two clowns, a dory, <Cringe.> two green fish with
large red eyes <WHAT???? I am not The Amazing Kreskin! You need to at
the VERY LEAST learn the common names of any living creatures in your
tank!!!!> and a yellow and black algae eater. <Again, this is
UNACCEPTABLE.> I also had two anomones <anemones>. <A huge
mistake, in my opinion.> One is small and brown with small tenticles
<tentacles>. The other was a large pink-bodied anomone <anemone> with
many, many white tenticles <tentacles>. The clown fished loved this one.
<And the mistakes multiply.> This morning, I checked the tank as I do
every morning before going to work. <And hopefully you monitor tank
parameters as well.> Everything was fine. <Vague.> The clowns
were basking in the anemone. When I got home, I found the water was so
cloudy that nothing could be seen, even the large rocks. <Yikes!>
I changed out about 40% of the water, after reading about sick tanks.
<You should have done a larger change, and you should do a few more,
quickly!> I also cleaned the bio filter and changed the charcoal
filter. When the water was clearer, I found that the large anomone
<anemone> was in thousands of pieces. <YUCK! To quote ScottF.: "An
anemone bouillabaisse!"> The yellow and black algae eater was also
dead. <Not surprising.> The dealer told me that the yellow fish
had a dorsal fin that had poisonous stingers at the tip. You could see
them when the fish flexed the fin during swimming. <Without a common
name, I have no idea what fish you are even referring to here.> My
questions concern both fish. <You should have many concerns my
friend... You have a big problem on your hands.> From what I
described, can you tell me why an anomone <anemone> would explode?
<The actual cause? I don't know. Were all you intakes covered? It could
have gotten caught in an overflow, sucked through a powerhead, perhaps
this was some kind of catastrophic allelopathic reaction... These
animals can be quite fussy and should never be kept by beginners. You
mixed species in your tank... this is a disaster to begin with.> And
why the algae eater would die so quickly? <You're lucky anything
survived! Anemones can be very toxic and can wipe out entire systems. My
friend, you have much work to do if you hope to stay in this hobby for
any length of time. You have a lot of learning ahead of you. Please, I
implore you to stop buying any more living creature and start reading
and researching. There is much that you can learn from this website
alone. Bob and many others have dedicated hours upon hours of our lives
to build this site and hopefully provide a useful source of helpful
information. Now you need to sit down and spend several hours edifying
yourself.> thanks <You're welcome, please educate yourself, I
beseech you to become a conscientious aquarist. Mich>
Anemone with Possible Torn Foot – 8/20/07 I'm hoping someone
can help me here (Tony?). <Hello, Brenda here to help.> I've
had this anemone for about 3 or 4 years now. It's been very healthy
lately. Over the weekend it started deflating a bit, but it happens
now and then. However, today I saw it was really small, and the
tentacles were very "flat" and "pulled inside". <What are your
water parameters? Has anything changed? Temperature, lighting, etc.>
On closer inspection I saw these brown brainy "things" on its foot.
It still feels fairly "solid" (not all "snotty" like a dead
anemone), but it looks like small parts of the foot is starting to
"decompose". Any help? <It looks like the foot has been torn. Did
you remove it from a rock or was it floating around the tank? Don’t
handle the anemone anymore. Keep the water parameters perfect to
give it the best chance of recovery. The coloring still looks good,
so it appears it was healthy to begin with. Do not try feeding until
the anemone has recovered. Brenda> | 
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Possible Torn Anemone – 8/19/07 <Hello, Brenda here to help!>
I have a rose bubble tip anemone and I lifted the rock he was under but
half of him was connected to it and it looked like it pulled him away a
little. <Ouch!!> I'm not sure if I did something wrong but I laid
it back down when I saw what I did. <Yes, you did something wrong.
However, it is not likely fatal if the anemone was in good health to
begin with. When you say the anemone was “under” the rock, are you
saying it was hiding and not getting any light?> I lifted the rock
slow but when I could see him I noticed the small part pull away. Help
me please. My finance will kill me if he dies. He is a week old. <I
have to confess! I have done something similar! I have also witnessed
another crew member/friend do the same. You may have torn the foot.
Don’t try moving the anemone anymore. Keep your water parameters
perfect! The anemone may end up splitting, giving you two. Many anemones
have survived going through unprotected powerheads. You should know in a
day or two if the anemone is going to split. Do not try feeding the
anemone for a few days. If it does splits, wait a week to 10 days to
give the mouth time to heal before feeding. I hope this helps! I’ll keep
my fingers crossed! Let me know if you have any more questions. Brenda>
Re: Help! Bleached Sebae Anemone, - 7/4/07 7/6/07 We have an 80
Gallon tank that we have had for about 2 months. This was a tank that
was already established, as it was given to us by a family member and
had been going for a couple of years. It has approximately 60 lbs. of
sand and 80-100 lbs. of rock. The light is a T5 with four bulbs that we
have had for approximately 1 month. <My guess is that this is not
enough lighting for this anemone, but I would need to know how many
watts these bulbs are, and their “K” value. Please read through the FAQs
regarding T-5 lighting for a better understanding.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/T5fluorFAQs.htm > We have 23 snails, 35
crabs, 2 starfish, 3 ocellaris clownfish, 1 sebae clownfish, 2 domino
damsels, 2 blue and green Chromis, 3 yellow tailed damsels, 2 four
stripe damsels, 1 spotted mandarin goby, <You are overstocked for 80
gallon tank. It is also too many crabs in my opinion. Crabs have been
known to be predators.> 1 peppermint shrimp, 2 polyps, a sea slug,
and a rock anemone. <I don’t recommend mixing species of anemones.
There will likely be chemical warfare between the two.> Our water
looks like this PH 8.2, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0.2, Nitrate 10, Alkalinity
DKH 7, Salinity 2.0-2.3. <Are you using a protein skimmer? Your
Nitrites and Nitrates need to be zero. I’m not sure you are measuring
your Salinity correctly. Salinity for anemones is best kept at 1.026.
Here is a link for a better understanding:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/spg_salinity.htm At this point I recommend
returning the anemone, or finding someone local to care for it until you
have a better understanding of its care and a better understanding of
your new aquarium. Brenda>
Sick Anemone, Bleached, Zooxanthellae – 6/17/07 <Hello Elaine,
Brenda here> I have a pink sea anemone in my 2 month old, 14 gallon
Bio Cube. <What species? Your tank is not large enough for an
anemone. It is also not old enough. Anemones need established aquariums,
six months old minimum.> A month ago I bought a 2.5 inch tomato clown
and a white anemone that she was living with from the aquarium. <A
white anemone is a bleached anemone. It has expelled its zooxanthellae.
It needs an adequate environment to recover from this.> All was well
for a while. In the last week or so, the clown fish has been rubbing on
the white anemone very hard and the anemone retrieved to the rocks.
<Maroons are known to be rough on anemones. It is recommended that the
anemone be three times larger than the Maroon.> I also noticed that
the clown fish has been taking food away from her original partner and
feeding it to the pink anemone. <This is not uncommon.> Now the
white one looks limp and shrunken. I have put it in a breeding cage with
adequate water flow but it would not eat even when I feed it. It would
hang on to the food for hours and then let go, probably because it could
not hang on to the food any more. Help!!! <Your anemone is rapidly
declining. It needs to be fed a tiny piece of meaty foods daily. You may
want to consider returning the anemones, or finding someone local with
experience in caring for a sick anemone.> Elaine <Brenda>
Re: Sick Anemone, Bleached, Zooxanthellae - 6/17/07 – 6/19/07
Thanks Brenda. I have given it to a local Aquarium store to be looked
after. Elaine <You're welcome! Good luck to you! Brenda>
Shrinking Anemone – 5/13/07 Hi there, <Hello, Brenda here>
First I have a 159 gallon tank with two 150 watt metal halides and two
actinics, salinity is at 1.024 I bought an anemone a few months ago.
<You’re salinity is a bit low, gradually bring it up to 1.026.> I
think it is a Heteractis sp. <Which one?> or, gelam. <Not
sure what that one is. Your lighting is a bit low for keeping anemones
in that size tank.> It lives in a rock that I bought with the
anemone. It doesn’t look very good it seems to be shrinking and the
tentacles don’t inflate anymore. I feed it frozen brine shrimp twice a
week. <Brine shrimp has little or no nutritional value to
anemones. Try feeding it some silversides. You can also try krill, raw
frozen shrimp, Mysis shrimp, or lance fish. I suggest keeping the
silversides as its main diet. You can also try soaking the food in
Selcon for some added vitamins.> I have a clown fish that
cohabitates with the anemone. I also have been feeding it frozen
plankton. This last week it didn’t seem to hold on to the food very
well. Pleas help what is wrong with my anemone? <Sounds like you
have a few things going on here. I would definitely consider upgrading
the lighting soon. Good luck! Brenda>
Malu anemone died... Polychaete ID, comp... 5/9/07 Hi Crew,
<Hazel> I love your site and have found many answers to my
questions. Someone always has had the problem before me it seems. I
would like to know what this is though. I have a 200L marine tank
and this worm has been in it from the start. He must have been in
the live rock. <Yes, very likely> I thought that he was
about 8 inches long but he is over 24 inches as I found out when I
removed him a few days ago. Something was eating the
Cladiella coral and the malu anemone in the front left corner of my
tank and he lived in those rocks behind that area. I am not sure he
is the problem as he only seems to eat dead items despite his
enormous size; <Mmm, yes> I have him in a spare tank at this
moment so I can observe him. (He is very interesting because of his
size and he loves muscles and eats small dead fish as well as flake
food) I do not want to kill him. In my regular tank I saw a small
red bristle worm steal some food from the malu anemone as the
anemone was beginning to show signs of damage. I have not caught
this yet. Too quick for me. <Can, could be baited, trapped...>
My tank is water salinity 1.025, ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 0,
PH 7.8 am and slightly higher pm. Calcium 380 - 390, I use RO water
and mix the salt, change 15% water every Friday, and keep mostly
soft corals. The tank is a Berlin system with a skimmer and filter
at the back of the tank and 3 pumps moving the water around, two at
the bottom and one two thirds of the way up. There is a grill where
the water flows to the back part of the tank into the skimmer etc.
I have recently added a superb Catalaphyllia which was about eight
inches away from the anemone and from the Cladiella, and wonder if
that gives off any poisons in the current. <Of a certainty, yes>
Could it be that it is blocking the water flow from the area as they
are in the front corner? <Perhaps... circulation matters are
too-little discussed in our interest> The Catalaphyllia is
eating well and is out all day. The clowns have moved in as the
anemone has now disappeared. Above the sand, on the first level of
rock I have a Tubastraea which is growing very well and has new
heads growing from the sides of the existing heads. I feed this
every night, sometimes brine shrimp or Mysis and sometimes parts of
defrosted frozen fish from local marine store. Also small pieces of
shrimp. This has been very good, always open at 7pm ready for its
dinner. This has been above and to the right of the malu anemone for
some months. Could this give off some chemical that hurt the malu?
<Yes> I have one yellow tang, one coral beauty, one mandarin,
five blue Chromis, one fairy wrasse, one chalky goby, three pyjama
cardinals and a breeding pair of Banggai cardinals (had babies few
weeks ago) and the two clowns. The tank is quite peaceful. I
have a flame scallop and two hermit crabs, and two Lysmata amboi and
three Lysmata wurdemanni, plus a long spined urchin (recent addition
for baby cardinals to hide in). Babies disappeared soon after being
born and the one I caught died later in the breeding net. I use
PhosBan to keep the phostrogen levels down as I feed the fish and
the corals on a daily basis. I have kept tropical fish for
many years but only had marines for a year or so. I have read up on
the marine tanks, on reefs critters corals etc and spoken to lots of
local stores people but there is so much to learn, can you help me
with this problem as I would love to buy another anemone, but only
after I have the right conditions for it as I hate to see it die.
Thanks for reading this Best regards Hazel <Please read
here re this Polychaete, Hermodice canunculata:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/polychaecompfaqs.htm and the
linked files above... And take a jaunt through our page re using
WWM:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm
re Catalaphyllia compatibility, other questions you have/pose. Bob
Fenner> | 
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H. malu changing colors, possibly dyed. – 4/28/07 Hello! <Hi
Nicole, Brenda here> I purchased a H. malu anemone about 3 weeks ago
and I'm still trying to figure out whether it is healthy or not. I
believe it is, but upon doing research, I've come across somewhat
conflicting info. I hope you can help me sort this out. <I will
try.> Color: My anemone currently has a pinky-peach column with
magenta splotches and a yellowish tinge toward the top. It also has
magenta stripes radiating from its mouth and magenta rings around its
pinky-peach tentacles. That sounds OK, however, the very tip of its
tentacles are white and there are about 5 inner tentacles with the
bottom half stark white and the top half pinky-peach. Also, some of the
outer tentacles have a yellowish tinge to them. Does this sound normal
or is it recovering from a bleaching? <I would really need to see a
picture. The different color is making me believe you may have a dyed
anemone. There is more information on dyed anemones here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dyedanemfaqs.htm
> Waste or Zooxanthellae: I've come across info regarding the gunk
that anemones expel. I've seen the nasty, crusty looking white stuff
coming from its mouth as well as a transparent sack. I also noticed a
couple days ago long dark brown stringy stuff coming from its
mouth. Again, I've read that the brown stuff is waste but I've also
read that it is the anemone losing its zooxanthellae. Which is it?
<I have seen anemones expel waste that is white, black and brown. If
your anemone is loosing color and turning white, it is loosing its
zooxanthellae.> Feeding: Because I was concerned by its coloration
(white and yellow areas) and felt it was a recovering bleached anemone,
I read that it is important to feed it every 2-3 days until it is
healthy again. (I've been feeding it silversides and scallops. Sometimes
I soak the food in Zoe). I also read that healthy anemones can be fed
from 2-3 times per week to once a month. What is the appropriate
feeding frequency for a healthy H. Malu. (BTW, mine is still small with
a column about 1.5 - 2 inches in diameter. <I recommend feeding 2 to
3 times per week.> Is it correct to determine its size by the
diameter of its column or the spread of its tentacles? <I have
always measured by the spread of the tentacles. However, I am not sure
that is correct.> Will an anemone always take food that's offered or
will it refuse if it is not hungry? <A healthy anemone should always
grab onto the food. However it may not eat it if it is not hungry. It
may also eat it and regurgitate it later.> Location: When I first
put the anemone in my tank, it buried its column into the sand and then
it realized it wasn't happy and walked for a second and tipped over and
leaned on a rock. <That doesn’t sound good.> During a water
change, the current floated it toward a cave and it eventually placed
itself between the rocks and that's where it has been for about 2 weeks,
though its column is not buried in the substrate. I was happy because I
read that an unhappy anemone wanders around the tank and a happy one
stays put. <Some anemones are just too sick to wander.> But then
I read that happy and healthy anemones like to be in the light and are
on rocks or buried in the substrate in the current to catch food. And
unhappy/ unhealthy anemones put themselves between rocks and hide from
the light. Well, which one is it? Is my guy happy but shy or sick and
sensitive to light? <It sounds like you have a sick anemone.>
Last question(s): It turned green! Recently I noticed that its
tentacles were turning green, were shriveled up and its column scrunched
down. <It is not uncommon for an anemone to become darker in color
when it shrivels up. This is typically when the anemone is expelling
waste.> I changed the water thinking it was giving me a clear sign
that the water was getting too dirty and it did open up a little bit
immediately after the water change. But after a little while it
shriveled up again, still green. The only thing I could think to do was
to turn off the power head assuming it was the current irritating it.
Well, sure enough, it opened up again after I turned off the power head.
Its tentacles retained the greenish color for a little while and then
went back to being pinky-peach. <I have not heard of this. I don’t
recommend the use of power heads with anemones. Many anemones have lost
their lives to them.> The thing is, I hadn't changed the position or
strength of the current so why did it suddenly begin to bother the
anemone? And why/how on earth did it turn green? <I don’t know. I
would love to see pictures of this.> I look forward to your
responses and suggestions. BTW, great website! <Thank you!>
Nicole <Brenda>
Bleached ritteri? (with attachments) 4/2/07 Can
you tell me if the attached pictures of this Ritteri (called
"Ritteri_Atypical" and BTA (called "BTA") I just received is
bleached or heading that way? I understand there are color
variations, but I am accustomed to receiving Ritteri Anemones that
are closer to the third attachment (called "Ritteri_Usual").
<Receiving Anemones? I hope that these are all in separate
tanks. Anemones engage in toxic warfare with each other. In the
long run multiples in the same tank will not work unless you are
really dedicated to their care. Much easier to just have one. Not
to mention what can happen if they decide to start roaming.> I
have never seen a Ritteri or BTA that looked this way, but that's
not saying much. I was interested in if you all at the crew could
vouch for whether you have seen healthy specimens that looked like
mine, since your experiences range much wider than my own. If it
matters, the Ritteri has a bold pink coloration. <These
specimens are bleached. They need strong lighting and feedings
about three times a week. If you don't already have strong
lighting, and purchase stronger lights, remember to start them off
high, and gradually move them closer to the tank. This and time
will dictate their chances of survival. I hope that you have this
H. magnifica in at least 100 gallons. They do not last long in
smaller volumes. Good luck my friend. I would suggest doing some
reading. This is a good place to start:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/magnfcntfaqs.htm>
Thank you all, <You are welcome. Brandon.> CJ | 
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Anemone tentacles falling off? - 03/24/07 Hi there
<Hello to you> I have had my anemone for 3 months. It has done
really well, and situated itself in a corner in my tank. I have a very
small 80 litre tank with two clown fish and a shrimp. <This is a
very small and most likely inappropriate tank to keep an already
challenging animal> My anemone <What type of anemone is this, as
this information is crucial?> has flourished sometimes looking like
a tree with a long stalk waving its arms. When suddenly yesterday it
almost turned inside out and started bubbling and completely deflated
it's tentacles. Now it seems they have discoloured and are falling off.
<Uh-oh> He has a few left and still stretching himself out like a
long stalk. I have noticed that he tried to move around the tank
yesterday, and he keeps climbing the glass walls of the tank. <The
climbing and stretching may be a search for extra light/water movement.
More tank details would help – lighting specifications along with
filtration, substrate, circulation etc..> I did notice that my
nitrate level has shot up in the last two days. <Actual numbers
would be more useful along with details of other parameters – pH,
Ammonia etc..> I have however been trying to add Calcium, by
boosting it and adding Calcium daily? <What way were you dosing;
Kalk, Two Part Supplement, “Turbo Calcium” – Calcium Chloride
supplements?> Maybe this has been too much? <Probably not the
root cause, although a test on calcium would show this..? Did you
witness a “snowstorm” effect at all?> I did a 40% water change the
minute I saw my anemone looking poorly. The nitrate levels are back to
zero. <Good start and good to have a definite figure> My
question. Will he die if lost his tentacles and do they grow back?
<Without knowing other details of the tank and only knowing the size of
the tank it is very hard to tell. Although as I’ve said the size of
the tank is much to small to keep this animal in and it is sadly very
likely that it will not survive without an upgrade and I fear this may
be too late now. In this volume of water it is also highly likely it
will take your other livestock with it. Regeneration is possible
however, a slim chance> Is there anything I can do? <Send along
further details and maybe a picture, would be very helpful. I would also
suggest moving your other animals to another tank for their safety>
How do I add calcium to my tank safely? <Noted on WWM -
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm A reply with the above
suggestions on your species and tank may let us help you further and I
hope we can try and do something more to save your animal and your
system, Olly> My white anemone shrunk. Is it dying? –
3/13/07 <Hi Heather, Brenda here> I am a fairly new owner of
a saltwater tank. We bought 1 white anemone to go with our clown. <A
“white” clownfish hosting anemone is a sick anemone. If your tank is
less than six months old, your tank is not ready for an anemone.>
Today we left for a couple of hours and came home to find him all
shrunken up. <Anemones will shrink up to expel waste.> He had
maybe 3 or 4 of his arms at regular length and all the rest were sunken
in to his body and gray. <Gray does not sound good!!!> What is
happening with my anemone????? Please help. I'm afraid that this is a
sign that he is dieing. <That is my thought also.> If that is
the case, I am assuming that I should remove him from the tank ASAP,
yes??? <I would at least move it to a quarantine tank or
a bucket.> Please help!!! Heather <Please research before
you purchase. Anemones are delicate creatures, and need special
care. Brenda> Re: Bleached Sebae Anemone – 3/12/07
<Brenda following up> Thank you so much for such a quick reply on
specific help for our anemone!!! <You’re welcome.>
We will give it our best care and hope for the best! I did think of
one other question. I understand that it is very important to remove a
dead anemone as quickly as possible from the tank to keep from harming
other inhabitants. Is it obvious when it is dead? <If
the mouth is gaping for long periods it is likely on its way out. Once
it is dead, you will likely see some build up of slime and it may look
like it is melting.> Because frankly there are times we thought it
was dead only to see signs of life later. Is there a time frame we are
looking at as to when we should remove it when we are fairly certain it
is dead? <Time frame, no. Anemones can live a long time
being bleached. They can also parish overnight. Given the fact that
this is a new anemone, it may be still acclimating to its
environment. Anemones can also look pretty bad when they are expelling
waste. It is best to always have premixed saltwater ready for an
emergency water change.> Hopefully it won't come to this! And on
the upside, it actually has attached itself for sure to the front,
bottom (glass) of the aquarium. <Great!> Not a great spot, but
at least it's alive. <Not only alive, but it also has the energy to
attach itself. Many times sick anemones are being tossed around in the
current.> Thank you again! Drowning in tank info <You’re
welcome. Brenda>
Anemones getting darker......not a good mix
of animals 3/4/07 Hi, <Hello.> I have a
50 long with 40lbs of live rock, 50 lbs of base a whisper 60 filter, and
a 192 watt ho florescent lighting. <No skimmer?> For fish I
have a yellow tang, a cinnamon and gold clown, a percula clown, 2
chromes, 2 yellow damsels, a checker goby, and a neon goby. <The
mixing of the clowns and the residency of the tang are a no-go
long-term.> For invertebrates I have 21 turbo snails of
different varieties, <Too many, 1 per 10 gallons is plenty....too
much still, 1:20 gallons is usually plenty.> a sea hare, <Be
aware of this one and toxins.> 18 hermit crabs, 2 sally lightfoot
crabs, <Have a few horror stories about this one.> emerald crab,
a cleaner shrimp, afire shrimp, 4 peppermint shrimp, 4 anemones of
various types <It is not good to keep multiple of anemones of the
same species in a single aquarium barring the exception that they are
clones of each other in an aquarium tank...you also should not keep
anemones with sessile invertebrates and you ESPECIALLY shouldn't keep
anemones of differing species together.> and a few polyps.
All my anomies are turning brownish in color, they look healthy in
general and have had one of them I've had since the tank cycled. Is
there any way you cold tell me what to look for here? <Not without
knowing the exact species and more tank details...water parameters, no I
cannot honestly not tell you. My guess is that they were bleaching when
you bought them and are now producing more zooxanthellae to compensate,
and thus becoming darker.> thanks John <Adam J.>
Concern re Incorrect Information on a FAQ Posted. Could a note be
Added? <<Mmm, yes. RMF>>, there are NO naturally white Heteractis
species - 02/21/07 Hello Mich, <Hello again Brandon!>
Here is the image that seems to be lost in the stream of bits, bytes,
one's and zero's that we call the Internet. I was a programmer before I
started messing with water. <Oh! Do you know anything
about placing rotating banner ads? We have been trying to place the ads
on our site and have run into multiple issues. I received the image
with the other query.> As promised here is the text that I found
that concerned me as well, <I will inform the powers that be, of
your concerns.> "*Sebae **Anemone* Hello Again, (It has been
about 1 month since my last email, heehee) The tank is running perfect
with the RO water changes and the Prizm, (I don't know about a 90
gallon, but for my 26 it's pulling out tons of dry skim, only complaint
is a little noise, a good compromise though.) I had a sebae anemone
surprise delivered to me in a ordering mix up, I contemplated sending it
back but didn't know if it would survive the shipping again so decided
to keep the freebee. Its white, which scared me at first, but then I
realized that all the pictures of bleached anemones appeared
translucent, mine is sort of a creamy off white sheet rock color. It
has purple tips. It attached to my rock in the lower areas of the tank
and hasn't moved yet (1 week). It responds well to being touched
(shrinks away) but doesn't feel sticky as it probably should. The only
thing that it would eat was a little squid, no Mysis, fish fry, or
krill. I have 130 watts of brand new lighting right on top of the
tank. Do you think this anemone has expelled its algae or can I salvage
him. Oh he's about 3 inches diameter and my Percula shows absolutely no
interest. I know clowns have a tendency to fight but could I add a
small Clarkii? Thanks a ton guys. Eric <<<Many Sebaes are
naturally white so he should be fine. The lighting will be sufficient
for this anemone also. Please read here for more info on these guys:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
Cody>>>" <Wrong. RMF> This alarmed me because I have
never heard of a H. crispa, H. magnifica, or any other Heteractis spp.
for that matter, being white. Also it would seem to be in conflict with
a statement that Mr. Calfo made that went something along the lines of,
" <<<<this is a common reality/problem my friend. Your anemone is
dying... and it was not a good candidate from go. Frankly (not berating
you), your merchant should have known not to sell this animal and you
should have known not to buy it (as an educated consumer... research
your livestock's needs before you buy them). This species of anemone is
naturally dark in color (usually brown) with dark purple tips. Yellow is
not a natural color and indicated an animal that is bleached and/or has
been dyed. It will be dead within days. Few live weeks beyond import. I
really don't know why merchants pay for these things when they are
shipped to them. If they stopped paying for them and if consumers would
stop buying them, then the collectors would get their acts together and
stop shipping them unhealthy. Please read more about anemone health
and car in our archives. Be sure to follow the links at the top of the
page too. Best regards, Anthony>>>>" It would at least appear to me
that you all seem to advocate not buying the white specimens in lieu of
tan or deep brown specimens. <Yes.> Mine is a very
deep brown/tan color. I have not made up my mind as to the pigment, it
seems different every time that I look at it. <Happens.>
As for the attachment, I was trying to narrow this guy down to
subspecies. I know that it is of genus Corallimorph, I am strongly
leaning toward a species of Rhodactis, I really would like to know if
this is correct, and if so what subspecies is it. <Yes is a
Rhodactis. More in other query.> I bought it mistakenly as a type
of leather coral. What I get for listening to the people at the
store. From what I have found I am not quite out of my league, as I am
regularly hand feeding a Plerogyra sinuosa, a Trachyphyllia geoffroyi, a
Heteractis crispa, two colonies of Tubastrea spp., and now the mystery
Corallimorph. I introduced food into the tank and a mouth appeared. It
was quite large, so I fed it. The mouth consequentially went away, after
taking the Mysis of course. <Yep.> Also I am going
to quote the address of the offending page, <http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sebaefaq2.htm
the 12th query down.> perhaps it should be looked at
with some scrutiny, again guys I am not trying to undermine the work
that you do. It is as I told Mich, you very wonderful and dedicated
people are often the last line of defense against, haste, lack of
knowledge, and general disregard for common sense. But, I would hate
for someone to see this and think that all was well, when in fact it is
not. <Thank you for your observation.> I would love
to help you guys out in any way that I can, and if there is ever
something that I could do please do not hesitate to let me know. <We
are still trying to place rotating banner ads on the site and have run
into numerous problems. Any chance you are knowledgeable in this
area? Any assistance here would be most appreciated.>
With the utmost gratitude, Brandon R. Foster <Thank you, -Mich>
B <<Got it>> The photo that he is referring to was sent in
another query and was place on the FAQ’s from 2/20. His note is quite
lengthy, but his point as I understand it is: the response that was
given is incorrect and he would like to see a note added stating as much
so other aren’t mislead. It is the 12th query down on this page
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sebaefaq2.htm Below is
the text he take issue with and the justification. <Many Sebaes are
naturally white so he should be fine. The lighting will be sufficient
for this anemone also. Please read here for more info on these
guys: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
Cody>" <<Is not a factual stmt. RMF>> This alarmed me
because I have never heard of a H. crispa, H. magnifica, or any other
Heteractis spp. for that matter, being white. Also it would seem to be
in conflict with a statement that Mr. Calfo made that went something
along the lines of, " <this is a common reality/problem my friend. Your
anemone is dying... and it was not a good candidate from go. M
Joes Juice for Aiptasia Control Versus BTA, Entacmaea quadricolor -
2/4/07 Hello, <Hi Sharon, Brenda here> I have 3 BTAs and
an Aiptasia problem. Before using Joe’s Juice, I would like to know if
this will harm the BTAs. <There is mixed results with Joe’s Juice
for Aiptasia control. To answer your question, too much at once may
harm your BTA. If you choose this route, I would not use it near your
BTA. Start out slow and watch your livestock closely.> My first
thought was to move the infested rock to a bucket filled with saltwater
and zap them there, but all of my rock can be removed. Help! <An
alternative that I have used is Peppermint Shrimp, Lysmata Wurdemanni.
Unfortunately others have had mixed results with Peppermint
Shrimp. There is more information on both here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/aiptasia_impressions/aiptaisia_impressions.htm
> Sharon <Hope this helps. Brenda> How can I tell if
my anemone is beyond help? 2/2/07 Dear WWM
crew, <Jane> Thank you again for the fabulous web site and all
the advice you have given me in the past. My question today is simple,
but here is a little background info. <Okay> An LFS had received
a blue carpet anemone (Stichodactyla Haddoni) a week ago. I do not buy
carpet anemones from stores since I do not want to encourage their
collection and the likely subsequent death. <I am in agreement with
your practice> But I figured there would be no harm in visiting it
now and then. Well, yesterday it was upside down, shriveled up and the
mouth was severely gaping (I mean, open about 3"). It was oozing stuff.
<Very bad signs...> I pointed it out to them and they were about to
toss it out. I asked them to give it to me so I can try to rescue it (I
do know how slim the chances are). At the time I had estimated it would
be dead within 3 hours. Well, I have it at home in a 100 gallon tank
all to itself (although it only has 3" of water in it right now). I can
not tell if it is dead or alive. I have had it for about 16 hours
now. It looks terrible (covered in slime) but there is a small section
of the tentacles that still looks alive. The mouth is still wide open
and its surface ("skin") is all cracked and torn. The whole anemone
keeps oozing whitish stuff. It does smell somewhat bad, but I can not
tell if it is the anemone itself or all the goo coming off of it.
<All part of the same> Oh, and last night when I was gently
transferring it into the tank, one of my fingers went right through its
oral disk. I am guessing it is a bad sign. In retrospect, I should not
have picked it up with my hands... Also, can a dead anemone still
have sticky tentacles? <Yes> I have heard that the Portuguese
Man-O-War can sting creatures long after it's dead, but what about
anemones? This one still have slightly sticky tentacles (at least in
some places). It is also bleached (the blue tips are still there, but
the brown undertone is all gone). I do not want to give up on it
until I KNOW for sure that it is dead. <We are in agreement here as
well> But how can I tell, aside from waiting until the whole thing
disintegrates all over the tank and spreads its aroma throughout the
whole house? <Mmm, not really, but the reality is that
this animal is highly likely dead, or as the line goes in the William
Goldman "Princess Bride" movie, mostly dead> I have been praying and
doing water changes. Hope it helps :) Thanks to you all Julia.
<I think you have given this situation your "best shot", but this animal
is gone. I would siphon it out to waste. Bob Fenner> Anemone
Dying? 1/1/06 Hi there, I have a problem. I have a Sebae
anemone who seems to have shriveled up and died. I checked my water
parameters and noticed a small amount of ammonia (.25). The tank had
been cycled and is fine, no other death, etc., so I removed the piece
of live rock that the anemone was on and placed it in about two gallons
of water from my tank (enough to keep it covered). The problem is I
can't get the anemone off the LR. This piece of rock is the largest in
my tank and I really don't want to lose it. The anemone almost
completely withdrew into the rock (you can just see a bit of it sticking
out). First of all, is there any way to get it out? <In your
situation, best just to leave it die and re-cure the rock.> And
secondly, once I do, do I have to cure the rock again now that it has
been out of my tank and had a death on it? How long would I need to do
this, and how would I go about it? <Best to cure in a tank/tub large
enough to submerse the rock. I'd direct a power head in the area the
anemone is in. Your curing process will be complete when ammonia levels
have dropped to zero. To speed the process up, a small water change
could be done on a daily basis.> Thank you for your help.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
How do I know if my
Anemone is still alive? 12/15/06 I’ve had a green
purple tipped anemone for 2 weeks. <Mmm, likely a "Sebae"...
Heteractis crispa> It seems to have attached well to live rock.
But then two mornings ago I found it just floating around the 50 gallon
tank. <Maybe another species of Heteractis here... magnifica does
this behavior quite commonly... Even in the wild... thought to be a
mechanism for dispersion> It seemed huge! with every tentacle
engorged. I lifted it a little out of the water <... not a good
idea> and it sprang a leak! of water from one of the tentacles. I
placed it back onto the live rock and it quickly collapsed into a tight
ball. But a few hours later it was open and re-attached. My concern is
that it no longer moves its tentacles. It does elongate and shrink back
but there in no action in the tentacles. I feed it frozen shrimp – twice
since I purchased it. I feed it again 2 days ago, but it didn’t hold
onto the shrimp with its tentacles, unlike the previous feedings. I
have a maroon clown fish that calls the anemone home. Otherwise I have
damsels, snails, hermits, a sand star. My nitrites are slightly up
to 0.3 from <0.3. Ammonia levels are 0. Other chemistries are fine.
I’m confused by its lack of independent movement of tentacles and
feeding, but it does change shape. Is it dead? Is it dying?
Do anemones usually leak? Do I need to un-attach it and get rid of
it? Do I just wait and see what happens? <Mmm, no, maybe, not
usually, no/no, yes> Thank you very much for your time. Stewart
Blandón, MD <Need to ascertain which species this is... Please read
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
and then on to the species coverage (linked above...). There is much
more to be discussed once the species is discerned... its needs, your
system, water quality, nutrition. Bob Fenner> Re: How do I know if
my Anemone is still alive? Not reading... 12/17/06
thank you for the super fast reply. <Welcome> I contacted the
store where I purchased the anemone - the Lucky Goldfish in Oakland, Ca.
USA. They said the species was HAITI. > searching your site I think
it looks most like this one -
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Cnidarians/Non-Condylactus_anemone.jpg
It is a green/purple color. Still the same - doesn't move, but
hasn't shriveled. No spikes in Nitrates. Clown fish still calls it home.
The guy at the store said to just watch and wait. That it was not dead.
Your opinion? Thank you, Stewart <Read on my friend, read on
where you were referred. RMF>
Anemone ID 11/14/06 Hi, I
cannot seem to find a picture that can assist me in identifying this
anemone (See attachment) I think it might be a Heteractis crispa
although I am not sure. <By the tip appearance, verrucae, I
think you've got it... though this specimen is terribly bleached,
bereft of zooxanthellae> I have a two stripe clown (I think it
is an African Clown) living in the anemone and feeding it. <Mmm,
looks like a Clark's... Bob Fenner> |
Re: Anemone ID. Bleached H. crispa – 11/15/06 Hi,
thank you for the speedy response. Is their anything I can do to
try and save it? I have 2x 54w 20 000k, 2 x 54 10 000k T5's and
2 x 150w MH 6500K as lighting in a standard 6ft tank. <Good
lighting fixtures> The anemone does take small pieces of
clam fed by the clown. <Ah, good. Only time, patience
can/will tell. Bob Fenner> Regards, Wikus <There is
evidence that such endosymbiotic endosymbiotic algae is
reincorporated by way of its availability from other hosting
organisms at times... Perhaps this will occur here. Bob Fenner> | 
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Anemone Health And Lighting 9/11/06 Dear Crew <Greg> I
am relatively new to SW and fish tanks in general but I am giving it a
shot, so far I love the hobby. Right now I have a 20 tall with 2 Top Fin
20 filters and a 20 watt bulb. I know it is not a lot of lighting but
just can't afford to upgrade at the moment. I have 30 lbs of live sand
and 30 lbs of live rock. In the tank I have 1 Condy that has footed
nicely but 2 days ago I introduced a LTA (appears healthy). The LTA has
yet to take foot to anything and is just floating around the tank. I was
reading some of your articles and came across something about an anemone
not "footing" because of a chemical war. So last night I removed my
Condy and placed it in a hospital tank that I have set up. Could the
reason that the LTA is not footing because of the chemical war? The next
morning the LTA has still yet to "foot" to anything. Please help...
The 2nd part of my question is that currently I have 1 Maroon clown in
my tank, but he has yet to take to either my Condy or my LTA. My LFS
said that the clowns rarely take to a Condy, but it should love the LTA.
Is it the just type of my clown that doesn't like anemone's or have I
not giving it enough time with my LTA? <Oh boy o boy. Your 20
gallon high is much too small for keeping anemones. They are
sensitive to changes in water parameters which can shift very quickly in
small tanks. Your lighting isn't near enough for keeping any anemone
alive. They are a photosynthetic animal that requires bright light
to survive. Also keep in mind that in the home aquarium, under proper
conditions, anemones rarely live more than a year. Did the LFS tell you
your tank and lighting are inadequate for anemones, or was he just
interested in making the sale? Do read here and linked files above,
especially lighting. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>
Thanks dearly, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Greg Lewis
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