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FAQs on Long Tentacle Anemone Disease/Health
Related Articles: LTAs,
Anemones,
Bubble
Tip Anemones, Cnidarians, Coldwater
Anemones,
Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs: LTAs 1, LTAs 2,
LTA Identification,
LTA Behavior, LTA Compatibility,
LTA Selection, LTA
Systems, LTA Feeding,
LTA Reproduction,
Anemones
1, Anemones 2, Anemones
3, Anemones 4, Bubble
Tip Anemones, Caribbean
Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia
Anemones, Other Pest Anemones, Anemones
and Clownfishes, Anemone
Reproduction, Anemone
Lighting, Anemone Feeding, Anemone
Systems,
Anemone
Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone
Selection, Anemone
Behavior,
Anemone
Health, Anemone
Placement,
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Anemone non-dilemma...
sys./Macrodactyla reading 7/24/08
Sherlo Hi WWM Crew
<And to you>
I am writing you from South Africa and have a very new setup. We started
off with Tropical many years ago and have now moved on to Salt Water.
We have a 200gal Reef Tank setup with about 100Kg Kenya Live Rock and
have recently introduced Livestock, namely 2 x Yellow Tangs (wish I'd
known about the bullying!), 3 x common Clowns, 1 x baby Blue Tang, 3 x
Cleaner Shrimps, 1 x Red Hermit and 1 x Red base LTA. [The Yellow Tangs
have toned down a bit since the introduction of the Clowns].
<Uhh...>
We test the water daily and our latest results are Ammonia - 0, Nitrates
- 10, Nitrites - 0, PH - 8.2, SG - 1,023 and KH - 10. There is plenty of
oxygenation and there are no 'dead spots' relating to the Powerheads
anywhere in the tank. We are running T5's (12 hours/day) and Metal
Halides (8 hours/day).
All the fish look healthy and are eating fine. My problem rests with the
sole Anemone that we have. The green tentacles are inflated and sway
nicely in the current but it keeps falling over and resting upside down
or sideways.
<... this is ofttimes called the "Sand Anemone"... please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
re Macrodactyla, and the linked files above...>
On first introduction, we placed it on a rock in the middle of the tank
in good sight of the halides and with plenty of current but it "fell"
down to the substrate.
<...>
I reluctantly moved it back to a rock higher up to the lighting but it
does not look like it has anchored itself properly and there is some
furry substance around the red base. Also, none of my clowns are
interested in it at all! I am very concerned about it and am wary of the
addition of more anemones at this stage.
<... More? A very poor idea... again, please search, read before
writing...>
Regarding the attached pic, today, the anemone is now resting with the
red base hanging over the left side of its rock ledge and the tentacles
are holding on to the rock.
I look forward to your advice!
<Read. Bob Fenner>
Best Regards
Tammy Knott |
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LTA/Health 3/27/08
Hello,
<Hi>
I recently purchased a Long tipped <Tentacle> Anemone, Macrodactyla doreensis,
and it seems to be doing well. It ate chopped shrimp right away. My question is,
is it normal for the anemone to "wilt" when the lights are off.
<Yes.>
I will leave the lights on tonight just in case.
<Do read here and linked files above for info on keeping this anemone.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Long Tentacle Anemone/Health
4/4/08
Hello,
<Hi>
I wrote nearly a week ago for info on my Long Tentacle Anemone,
<Is best to reply with original email, I would know then what has already been
said.>
and woke this morning to find it upside down with its tentacles completely
withdrawn. After turning it right side up, it perked up a little, and even more
when I held it in my hand close to the light. I now think it is dying after it
didn't respond as fast as usual to food. It was really to people's fault. The
salesperson told me that the animal was hardier than the Bubble Tip Anemone,
<Care level is about the same between these two.>
and would be fine being fed chopped shrimp. It was my fault buying it without
researching it first.
<Bingo.>
I was resolved to feed it every other day with chopped shrimp
<Too often.>
knowing that my lighting was very insufficient, but I suppose without the light,
I should have been feeding it at least once a day, or better yet, letting the
fish store keep feeding it.
<Food is NOT going to compensate for lack of light.>
I also think the lack of a protein skimmer played a role in its likely demise.
<Lack of research played the biggest role.>
I can only hope that upon returning home after school today that it will be
unfurled in all it's beauty.
<Mmm, may want to stay at school a little longer. You mention nothing of your
system, lighting, etc. I'm assuming your light is no where near the required
intensity and your system is lacking in proper filtration, including a protein
skimmer. Do read here and learn what is needed for keeping these animals.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/Health 4/5/08
Actually, my luck held out. I just returned home to find my anemone
completely and beautifully unfurled, like nothing had ever happened.
<Good so far.>
I am soon going to be purchasing a protein skimmer from the pet store I work at
(Oh the wonders of the employee discount), and also plan to look into lights.
Although I cannot give you the pH or Nitrate/ite because I have never tested
them sadly,
<The test kits should have been the first thing you bought.>
my salinity is at 1.0215 and I have four 25 watt bulbs for my 125 gallon tank.
<Yikes!>
Would it be possible to put the special lights only on the side the anemone
prefers?
<Would be much better than you have.>
And secondly without adequate light and feeding with regularity (once every 3
days) how long can I expect it to last?
<A few weeks at most. By then it's health will more than likely be irreversible.
Is best not to buy an animal if the means and knowing how to take care of it are
not present.>
Just to know so I can get moving on the skimmer and lights. I'm so happy it
looks as healthy as it did at the pet store!
<The lights should be your first priority, then a skimmer. What other filtration
methods are you using? James (Salty Dog)> Re: Long Tentacled
Anemone/Health 4/8/08
The filtration in the tank consists of two Emperor 400 power filters on each
side of the tank. Are the 4-7 week ph/ ammonia/ nitrate/ite in-tank test kits
effective?
<If you are referring to the Mardel Live Meter, they are for freshwater tanks
only.
James (Salty Dog)>
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Re: Long Tentacled
Anemone/Health 4/10/08
The anemone is looking healthy, and until I can buy better lights I
have put both sets of lights over the anemone. Thanks for all of your
help.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Long Tentacled
Anemone/Health 4/11/08
I actually forgot one thing. I work at a pet store and I hope you
guys don't mind that I recommend you for any fish questions that I can't
answer. P.S.-did you enjoy the pics?
<Is our purpose and yes, the pics were nice, thank you. James (Salty
Dog)> |
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LTA?
is it too late? Hlth...
2/10/08
Hello, super site!
<Hi, Mike I here>
We are new to the saltwater tanks and so far so good - but, in the section of
your anemone discussions . . . I was unable to avoid contacting you.
<OK>
The day we bought our clown and anemone ( pink long tentacle w/neon green
highlighting throughout and a white base ) together all was GREAT! ! !
<White base does not sound like a Long Tentacled Anemone, but with you so far>
It's been a few days now and the Clown is eating part of the anemone.
<Yikes! Doesn't sound good if I'm understanding what it may be eating>
At first, he fed it and slept in it and wouldn't leave the area. Now, he
explores some while the anemone looks like it will die. It is curled into itself
a lot and I am worried. The only difference to daily feeding has been a recent
treatment of purple-up and marine snow for the others in the tank. Was this why?
<Could be a number of things>
How long does/should it take for the anemone to put it's foot down?
<Almost immediately if healthy>
I might be the reason it is in this state . . . what to do? DeAnna
<Anemones are delicate little things, and not something that should usually be
attempted to be kept until a little experience has been built up. You haven't
stated your water parameters - would be helpful, as would details of your set
up. List of other inhabitants too perhaps. How long have you owned the animal?
Some pictures may help too. There are many reasons why anemones fail, and it may
seem I'm asking for than giving, but is essential to try and provide more help.
Mike I>
Shriveled Anemone
Macrodactyla doreensis Declining Quickly – 2/03/08
<Hello Mike, Brenda here!>
I have an M. doreensis which is not doing very well at all. I've had it for
about one year and it's gone downhill since it first arrived.
<Ouch!>
Long story short, the LFS (my FORMER LFS, I should add) gave me bad advice on
just about everything.
<This is not unusual. It is best to research everything before you purchase.>
These last few months, I've been working on improving pretty much everything
including an RO/DI unit, which I installed last week. My lighting is now PC,
260W on a 55-Gal.
<This lighting is border line for this anemone. Metal Halide or T-5 with
individual reflectors is best.>
Theoretically this anemone should be happier.
<I disagree that this anemone should be happy. It has lived a year in an
inadequate environment.>
However, I think I may be too late. My once beautiful specimen is now bleached,
shriveled up to the size of a cocktail wiener and its' mouth is all inverted
outwards and puffed out.
<Yikes!>
It has no more tentacles.
<This is a sign of starvation.>
Before its mouth puffed out, it had been accepting small pieces of
Selcon-treated shrimp (though it ate very slowly).
<What size portions?>
Is there anything I can do to help it get better?
<I would try super tiny (sliver size) portions of silversides.>
How can I feed it if its' mouth is inverted?
<Just lay the food near the mouth, without touching the anemone. What are your
water parameters, such as temperature, salinity, pH, calcium and alkalinity?
What other livestock do you have in there? Are there any clownfish hosting it?
What protein skimmer are you using? Are you running fresh carbon? If you can,
send me a picture of this anemone.>
Thanks, Mike
<You’re Welcome! Brenda>
Re: Macrodactyla doreensis Declining
Quickly – 2/03/08
Hi Brenda,
<Hi Mike!>
WOW...quick response!...thanks!
<You’re welcome!>
Well, the moral of the story is that my research methods have improved
greatly.
<Good to hear!>
However, at the time I bought the anemone, I thought that the LFS
owners' recommendation was 'good enough' research. I DID ask many
'right' questions...was it robust enough for a newbie...would it be OK
in my relatively new tank etc. I DID trust this LFS; so I bought it
($70.00). It WAS beautiful. (see pic) The LFS actually told me, flat
out, that the 48", 40W, single-bulb fixture that came with the kit was
plenty of light and that "lighting is a gimmick designed to rip you
off".
<YIKES! This LFS should not be selling anemones! There are a few things
I’ve found when speaking to the people at the LFS. These include things
such as, they lie to you, to get your money, they sometimes don’t know
the care and requirements of anemones, nor do they themselves have the
proper environment to keep them, and on very rare occasions I have found
someone that is honest, and knowledgeable in anemone care. Always
question and research before you purchase.>
As you can see by that 'after' pic, it's been a rough ride for that poor
thing.
<Sure has!>
Actually, the tank has been a rough ride for many inhabitants as I
struggle to improve things. I'm battling ICH and HLLE on 2 hepatus tangs
and along for the ride in the 20Gal hospital tank are 2 clowns (false
perc, I think) and a royal Dottyback (all 3 seem to be doing OK). The 55
has been fishless since Dec 15th. Remaining are 2 brittle stars, 2
Pacific cleaner shrimp, 1 Blood Red shrimp, 10 or so snails and 10 or so
hermit crabs mostly blue-legged and a few Scarlett.
<Crabs can be predators to anemones.>
There is also a small anemone (probably majano) that I enclosed a pic
of.
<Yep, that is a Majano, a pest anemone.>
Finally, a small amount of Anthelia. In December, I decided to set up
the hospital tank and try to improve conditions in the 55. Earlier this
year, I changed from dolomite to aragonite (the former having been sold
to me by the flaky LFS, the latter recommended by a somewhat better
LFS). The 'new' LFS worked with me to improve parameters...phosphates
were high (3.0);
<Do you have a refugium?>
ALK and Calcium were way down...PH was 7.9.
<A pH of 7.9 is a bit low, but not dangerously low. It is more important
to be stable.>
They sold me some Seachem products to improve things, as well as a
product called 'Phos-Buster', which I dosed one time only. I replace the
junky Skilter with an AquaC Remora (based on WWM recommendations).
<I use and recommend Aqua C products.>
I switched to a 2x T5 fixture based on the 'new' LFS's recommendation.
I've been using Seachem Phosguard and have managed to keep it between 0
and 0.1 All of this was around May of 2007. In December I decided to
upgrade the lighting (260W PC) based on what I read on WWM and also
because I liked the look of PC lighting.
<How many of these bulbs are actinic. Actinic bulbs do not benefit reef
tanks very much. I think your still lacking on lighting here. PC is not
the best option for a M. doreensis. I would only keep an E. quadricolor
under this lighting.>
Bought a fixture on eBay...'Odyssea', is the brand.
<How old are the bulbs?>
Nice unit...very happy. (However, had to remove covers to accommodate
lighting...now lose about 1.5 liters per day...I don't let it get much
lower than that.).
<An auto top off device is best.>
Next came the water; I'd been using a 'Tap Water Filter' unit since July
but found the cartridges got used up FAST and the water sometimes
developed a funky odor after 50 gallons or so. So I took the plunge 2
weeks ago and ordered a SpectraPure unit; 4-canister RO/DI and a TDS
meter.
<Great!>
I'm hoping this helps with the phosphates issue, especially since I'm
topping off the tank so often now (I aerate the top-off water at least
12 hours before using).
<RO/DI water does not need to be aerated.>
I've also started storing salted water in a plastic trash can.
<Be careful using a plastic trash can. This can leach chemicals into
your water. I’ve heard several complaints of phosphates being leached
into the water from these cans. I personally do not recommend them.>
I now dose with Seachem Reef Builder (in powder form) and Seachem Reef
Calcium now (but WAS using Reef Complete). My CA is around 360 and the
ALK is approx 2.7 (a bit hard to read w/my Red Sea test kit).
<If you are having trouble maintaining Calcium and Alkalinity, you may
want to check your Magnesium, you may find it a bit low.>
My intention is to bring these up higher gradually but don't want to be
aggressive because of the ailing anemone. PH is 8.3 and stable from
what I can tell.
<Good! Check it before the lights come on. Ph is highest at the end of
the light cycle. A refugium with lights on when main display lights are
off will help. You can also grow Macro algae here to help with your
phosphate issues.>
Temp is 78 and pretty stable, going to 79 sometimes.
<I would raise it one degree.>
Salinity 1.024
<Salinity is a bit low, gradually increase to 1.026 by using pre-mixed
saltwater as your top off. Test salinity using a refractometer.
Nitrates 0. Ammonia 0.
<Good!>
I have 4 carbon containers one gets changed weekly on a rotating basis.
<Carbon is useless after a week or two.>
2 with the floss in an Emperor 400 + 1 in a media container, and a big
brick 'o carbon in a HOT magnum. Attached are some pics: one 'before' of
the anemone, a year ago; one taken today (sob...); one of what I think
is majano and one of my clown to show you the type. I'm almost
embarrassed to send you the pic I took of the anemone today...what a
shame.
<This anemone is in very poor health, but not dead yet!>
I don't have any silversides...can I try a sliver of cooked shrimp
w/Selcon on it?
<Nope! Never feed cooked food. Always feed raw food, guts included. Raw
shrimp from your local deli may work. However, Silversides is better in
my experience. Your LFS should have this.>
Thanks, Mike.
<You’re welcome! Brenda> |
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 .jpg) |
Several reef
questions-LTA, Sea Hare, etc... pre-eminent crash, reading, reading and
understanding 01/22/2008
Hello WWM Crew,
This is the first time I've asked a question and I must apologize up
front, but this may be a long email.
<No worries. Take your time>
I'm sending a link with photos of my tank for you information. Before I
ask my questions, I will tell you about the tank. It is a 34 gallon Red
Sea Max system. We purchased it from our LFS on their recommendation.
<What do you think of this (new) product? Craftsmanship? Value?>
We now know it is more difficult to keep a smaller tank and we plan on
moving in 6 months, at which time we will be getting a much larger tank.
In the meantime, we need some advice on how to best care for our little
creatures. In the tank we currently have two Ocellaris Clowns (one male
and one female), yellow-tail Damselfish, Pajama Cardinal, 4-5 Nassarius
snails, 3 small turbo snails, 1 fire/cleaner shrimp, Sandsifting
starfish, Blue Tuxedo Sea Urchin, Sea Hare (that I've been unable to
accurately identify),
<Mmmm>
Long Tentacle Anemone,
<Yikes...>
1 mid-size red legged hermit crab, 3 smaller red-legged hermits, 1 very
small emerald crab, a green
star polyp coral, 2 very small sea mushroom coral (one of which is
attached to what I was told to be "leather finger"), 2 other small soft
corals that I can't seem to remember the name of at the moment but I
believe to be pineapple/brain coral, and another Favites coral that is
not in any photos because we just purchased it. According to yesterday's
tests, water quality as follows: Temp: 78 Specific Gravity: 1.023-1.024
Calcium: 460 PH: 8.2 Phosphate: .1 Ammonia: 0-.15
<I do hope this is an anomalous reading... test kit artifact. This needs
to be zero>
Nitrate: 0 Nitrite: .05.
<Ditto>
We are aware that we need excellent water quality but we were told by
our LFS that our levels were fine for us and we've NEVER had Ammonia at
0. Oh, the tank is fairly new, started in late October 2007.
OK, so on to my questions. When we first put the LTA in our tank 2 weeks
ago, we placed in where it is located in the photos and it remained
there for a little over a week. Just the other day it began to move
about.
<An "unhappy" behavior>
I looked up how to help it settle and tried moving it to a location and
feeding it 1/2 of a Silverside.
<...>
It stayed there for 2 days and then began to roam again. I did the same
thing again and it stayed for only 1/2 day and not it's roaming around
again. I know that an unattached anemone is an unhappy anemone but I
can't understand what more I need to do to help it find a home.
<The other cnidarians... the Polyps, Corallimorphs...>
When I found it yesterday morning it was sucked onto the sea urchin and
I moved it because I didn't think that was a particularly good thing. I
thought maybe our substrate wasn't appropriate but the LFS assures me
it's fine. How long should I expect it to roam around the tank?
<Not much longer... as it will be dead... perhaps the rest of your
livestock with it>
Should I right it if it's upside down?
<Tentacle side up... and place a "strawberry basket or such over it>
Based on the photos, can you recommend an
appropriate placement that I could try?
<... in looking at this animal, considering your system... I would
remove, return it to your LFS. This specimen is very badly bleached
(dying from a lack of zooxanthellae... which give it color... and
nutrition) and your system does not have sufficient quality or quantity
of light to support such an organism... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
and the linked files above>
I'll be getting a net today to try that technique mentioned on your
site. It's tentacles are usually out while it's roaming around, is this
a sign of good health?
<No my friend>
Next question: The sea hare that I can't identify fell onto the anemone
the other day.
<Very bad...>
Should I be worried about the anemone stinging it?
<Yes... and I suspect this is not a tropical animal... See here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/seaslugid.htm
re this Aplysia>
I moved the sea hare when I saw it. What exactly happens to a marine
animal if/when it gets stung by an anemone?
<Too much to relate to you here... but is recorded on our site,
elsewhere>
Will I be able to identify if has happened?
<This animal needs to be removed as well... is also mis-placed here>
The sea hare was purchased less than a week ago and it's laid eggs on
the side of the aquarium walls twice.
<Stress... reproducing before it dies...>
Should I clean this up or leave it alone (none of the aquarium
inhabitants attempted to eat it).
<Should be removed>
The mushroom coral in the photo was purchased at the same time as the
LTA.
<...>
It was open and appeared happy for several days. We added phytoplankton
to the tank
<Nothing you list actually eats this...>
the day we got it and then forgot to refrigerate it so we didn't add any
more until a week ago. It had shriveled up but the opened back up when
we added the phytoplankton (which we were told to add 3 times a week).
We also have been instructed to add 1 squirt of Arctipods once a week.
Now the mushroom is shriveled again and has been for 2 days. Is this
normal or is this a sign of bad health? If it's a sign of bad health is
there anything I can do to help it?
<... my friend... you need to read... And STOP buying "things",
livestock...>
Two more quick questions and them I'm done, I promise. We don't have an
RO/DI filter yet (we won't be able to have one until we move) so we've
been using Distilled water in the meantime. Since we've never had super
great water quality, is this a contributing factor?
<Not much>
Is there anything we can to do help get the ammonia to 0 (Oh, I forgot,
we add Amquel 1x/week)?
<... this may be giving you a false positive...>
Besides adding PH 8.2 to the distilled water, should I be doing
something else?
<Reading>
Last question. I now know that our clowns don't naturally host with a
LTA but is there a possibility that this might happen?
<... reading>
Is there anything I can do to help this process (besides a home for the
LTA)? I know that they can survive without each other but it would be
nice if they would pair, besides, the clowns have taken up residency in
the little cave in our tank that was home to the shrimp. Now we hardly
see the shrimp because it appears to have been pushed out of it's home
by the clowns. It would be nice to be able to give it back it's home.
Thank you for you wonderful site. I've learned a lot (much of which has
come after making this purchase and had I known better would have made
different choices). I've looked on your site for answers to my questions
and I often see that you refer people to "read wetwebmedia.com about
your question". If you are going to refer me to an article, can you
please give me a link or please be very specific about the location of
the article because I sometimes have difficulty navigating your site.
Thank you, again.
http://www.sendpix.com/albums/08012114/2t2jg47po0/ Link to photos of our
tank
Lynda Hounshell
<Read and heed the above... and then, keep reading... Do NOT buy
anything more w/o researching for yourself ahead of time. What you have
now will very likely "crash" soon... You need to ACT with knowledge...
ASAP. Bob Fenner> |
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New LTA
question 5/25/07
Hello and
thank you for all of the great info on your site!
<Welcome!>
I have a 7-month old 150 gallon saltwater tank with a 225 pounds of live
rock, refugium, very strong Current Halide lighting, Current drop-in
chiller, protein skimmer, 35 watt UV sterilizer and additional 4 power
heads being directed by a Wave master. My inhabitants are a Copper
banded Butterfly, Sail fin Tang, Bellus Angel, 4 Chromis, 3 Blennies, 1
female square spot Anthias and 1 male Liar
<Heeee! Lyre>
tail Anthias.
(The female Lair tail and Male Square spot Anthias recently passed. I
believe that it was due to the increased use of halide lighting once I
added corals. Both of them went into hiding and after a month or so,
died).
<Mmmm>
After about 5 months I added mushroom, elegance and bubble corals. They
have been thriving and growing well over the last two months.
My water levels have been steady and I keep a good eye on the phosphate,
calcium and alkalinity levels now that I have corals. I keep the water
temp at 76 with a variance of 2 degrees with a salinity of 1.0235. I
do a 30 gallon water change every two weeks with water I make from my
R/O unit. Since adding the corals, I noticed that keeping the
alkalinity up is the main change in the water. I add a dose Pro Buffer
dKH almost every day. Phosphates are a little bit of a challenge as the
tanks is still kind of new. When they get above .03 I add a dose of
Phos-Pro liquid which the tang does not appreciate. I also have a bag
of Phos-ban in the refugium constantly. The tank gets 13 hours of blue
light (7am to 8pm) and 7 hours of halide light (12pm to 7pm) everyday.
Last weekend I purchased a LTA
<Could be trouble mixed with the corals you list...>
along with a male and female clown fish. They were already an
acclimated set together in the tank at the fish store. I asked the
salesperson the proper caring instructions.
He replied that the LTA would attached itself to the sand and the fish
would feed it. Here's what I've done so far:
I dug a little hole in the sand, placed the LTA in it then watched him
be blown around by my power heads. It ended up on the bottom, on its
side next to my overflow with it's tentacles being sucked into the
overflow slits. Not damaged as far as I could tell. I moved it back
into place, put a live rock, shaped like a half-circle, behind it for
stability and turned off the power heads. After one day, it appeared to
be nestling into place. This morning, it was closed up like a ball with
the two clown fish trying to get inside of it. Once the blue light came
on and I fed the fish/corals it appeared to open a little, but then
closed up again. It's resting at an angle that's tilted probably 20
degrees. If I turn on the power heads, I think it will be blown around
again. Given that the flow of the tank will probably push him into the
overflow again, I'm worried. He has a red bottom and it's tentacles are
light tan to greenish. My questions...
1) Should I continue to keep the power heads off until the LTA settles
in or should I run them as normal so it finds a spot that's comfortable?
<Mmm, no... you need to re-arrange the flow such that it doesn't blow
this animal about...>
(I'm worried that if I run them he'll end up by the overflow again.
Also I worry about the fish and my corals as they're used to the current
provided by the power heads).
<Yes, very important>
2) Feeding? Seems like the more I read, the more I see that I should
be feeding him and not relying on the fish to feed him.
<Correct>
My current feeding for the fish is two to three times daily of
artic-pods, herbivore minced and Mysis shrimp. The corals are fed once
each day either, Phyto-plan, Zoo-Plan, Cyclops or Mystic Snow.
Thank you so much for your help!!!!
Greg E.
<Please... take a while and read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
Scroll down to the tray on Anemones, LTAs... Bob Fenner>
|
|
Re: New
LTA question 5/25/07
Thanks for the response Bob! Yesterday, the Anemone changed from
a ball to a deflated, wrinkled half ball. Still has it's red coloring
<This is normal, natural>
and changes shapes slowly. The clown fish are trying to get inside of
it most of the time.
<You might do well to cover this animal for now, to keep the Clowns
away... they may well be damaging this organism>
This morning it looked virtually the same but had greenish tentacles
coming out of the bottom area.
<? Is this anemone upside down?>
(Well, it look like it was coming out of the bottom but I'm not sure).
I took pictures of it yesterday and brought them with to the store I
bought it. The owner just smiled and said, "That's what Anemone's do.
<... no>
He's just getting acclimated to the new environment.
Just leave him alone." I picked up some silversides and hope to someday
have use for them.
I am interested in your comment about a possible conflict with the
corals I have. Currently, I have the Anemone placed about six inches
away from a bubble coral
<I see this... and this is WAY too close for an anemone to be near a
Plerogyra>
and, since the Anemone was blowing around, I moved a piece of live rock
in front of him that has some green mushroom corals on it.
<And these too...>
This changed the flow so he's not being blown around anymore. It was
the next day, however, that he changed into a ball....so perhaps the
rock with mushroom coral is part of the reason?
<My friend... please read, investigate before you buy anything live...
Your mis-step here may cause your system to crash... Really>
I've also re-started two of the four power heads to keep the tank
flowing. They do not place added flow on the Anemone, so it's been
pretty stable. It seems to be a good compromise for the fish until the
Anemone situation is rectified. After only 1 day with the power heads
off I was surprised to wake up to a half dozen 1/4 inch bristle worms on
my front glass. (I've only seen a couple of 1 inchers in my refugium in
the past). My Copper banded Butterfly was eager to pick them off for
me. Anything I need to know/do about the Bristle worms? I've placed a
couple of the traps in the water, but didn't catch anything with the
bait they sent with the trap.
I've sent two pictures along. One show's it's placement in back of the
bubble and mushroom coral. The other is just of the Anemone.
(Sorry...Not the best pictures. Darn cell phone cameras!)
Thanks again, and in advance of your next response.
Thanks,
Gregory E.
<Read re the compatibility of the Stinging-celled life you have here...
and soon Greg. Bob Fenner> |
|
  |
Re: New LTA question - 05/26/07
Will do, Thanks. You know what? I think you are right...it must be upside
down as the bottom of the Anemone was red and that's what's on top now. I think
I'll take this opportunity to move it very far away from the corals. I'll do
the reading you suggested right away.
<Ah, good. RMF>
Thanks,
Gregory
Re: New LTA question - 05/26/07
Thanks for your help Bob, but it appears the bad advice I got yesterday
from my fish store proved to be costly. I rushed home from work to find that,
as you guessed, the Anemone was upside down. The red underside began
disintegrating as I started turning it over. More of the same when I got it
right side up and let a small amount of current pass over it. I then called the
fish store and they told me to "leave it in my tank for a day to see what
happens
<What? No!>
and they couldn't tell me more unless they saw it." Umm, I brought a picture of
it in yesterday and they didn't even notice it was upside down. After giving it
a half hour to move, I finally removed it from the tank to avoid an ammonia
problem.
<This and worse>
It was already dead. I'm upset that I didn't notice that it was upside
down. Even a little more that they didn't as this is the premier fish store in
my area of Park Ridge, IL....and I was speaking with the owner.
I bought the clown fish and Anemone as I wanted that fish/anemone activity
in my tank. I would not have purchased the clown fish on their own. Is it
probable that a new anemone would attract the clown fish or am I out of luck?
<Please... read>
Currently, they seem to be hanging around my bubble and elegance corals.
Thanks again,
Greg E
<RMF>
What happened to my LTA, Macrodactyla doreensis and my Shrimp, Lysmata
debelius, Lysmata amboinensis? – 5/20/07
I am having problems with my saltwater tank. It consisted of 2
Macrodactyla doreensis, <<Two?! No! RMF>> 2 Amphiprion percula, 1 Lysmata amboinensis, and 2
Lysmata debelius. It all started when one of the LTA incased itself and
would show no tentacles. Soon after, one of the Lysmata debelius died. I
tested the water (Ammonia: 0.50ppm, <<Danger Will Robinson! RMF>> Nitrite: 0ppm, Nitrate: 10-15ppm, pH:
8.0-8.2) and did a water change.
<What is the temperature, salinity, alkalinity, and tank size? How long
have you had each of these animals?>
I pulled the incased LTA and put him in another tank, he was dead the next
morning. The Lysmata amboinensis and the other Lysmata debelius were also
dead that morning in the other tank. I tested the water again and got the
same readings I then did another water change. The fish seem to be doing
fine and the other LTA seems to be hanging on for right now. I just don't
know where to go from here. I checked everything, filter is running fine, I
don't over feed the tank, and the tank has been established for 2-3 years.
<What have you been feeding the anemones? Are you dosing the tank with
anything?>
Is it one of those mysteries I may never solve?
<Possibly>
Thank you for any input that you have.
<You’re welcome!>
You guys all do a great job!
<Thank you! Brenda>
LTA vs. Power head – 3/09/07
<Hi Chris, Brenda here>
First of all, like everybody else, I want to say thank you for all you
guys do. You really have helped a lot of people and marine animals!!!
<You’re welcome>
Well, to start off, today I came home to find that my wife had purchased
a LTA. She had called me earlier and said that when she had put it in
the tank, it went to the back in back of the rocks, so she said that
when I got home, I could get her out and put her in front.
<It is best to leave them alone. It was still acclimating and looking
for a comfortable place in its new environment.>
I came home from school, only to find the tank semi cloudy and that the
anemone was partly sucked up in one of the power heads, so I immediately
turned the power head off, and pulled it out and took off the part she
was hooked onto and put her in a bucket with tank water. I tried to pry
her out as gently as I could from the screen and then placed her after
rinsing her off a little bit with that same water in my smaller tank.
<Power heads are dangerous to anemones, they need to be covered. Here
are some ideas: http://www.karensroseanemones.com/coverpowerheads.htm >
She is pretty beat up on one half, I would really like to save her
because she is really pretty, but what can I do other then try and
letting her heal herself? Let me know what I can do please!
<The best thing that you can do now is keep your water parameters
perfect. Keep a close eye on it. If it starts to look like it is
melting or decaying, it is time to remove it and do a water change
before it pollutes the rest of your tank. If things are going good
after a few days, try feeding a ¼” sized portion of silversides that has
been soaked in Selcon.>
I also did a partial water change to the big tank to get some of the
cloudiness out, I have my skimmer on and so it is starting to clear up
already.
<Good! Be prepared to do more water changes.>
I’m glad that all of her didn’t get chopped up, then I would really be
in trouble. Please let me know how to proceed. I have attached some pics
of the anemone, my tank and of some rocks.
<Yes, I see the pictures. The anemone is definitely not looking good,
but I wouldn’t give up hope.>
I was hoping that you could identify what is growing on the
rocks. There is an orange jagged thing growing on one, and little round
red/maroon things growing on the other one, I was thinking that they
might be some type of coral but I’m not sure, thanks for your help!
<The red growing on the rock is a type of red algae. Please search for
red algae on WetWebMedia. I’m not sure what the orange is, hard to tell
by picture. Any thoughts on this Bob? >
Chris.
<You’re welcome! Good luck with your anemone! Brenda> |
 |
 |
LTA attachment/health, sys. really
2/22/07
Hi,
I purchased a LTA this past weekend. It is purple in color and was
fully open and seemed healthy in the LFS.
<Was it buried in the sand there?>
I inspected the foot and found no tears/abrasions.
<Good>
I brought it home and acclimated it to my tank over about 2 hours. My
system consists of a 20g tall tank
<Too small>
with 10g sump/fuge, skimmer, 130w pc lighting...ammonia 0, nitrite 0,
nitrate 5, ph 8.1, alk 3.75, calcium 400, phosphate 0.05. I placed it
in my tank between two rocks in what I thought was a suitable
location. It opened up within an hour and looked happy in its
spot. There was no bleaching, but the mouth was open possibly
1/4". Overnight it wandered to a corner of the tank with a powerhead
where it has remained ever since. It occasionally deflates for about 10
min.s, but winds up looking good as new a short time later.
<Not atypical behavior>
Right now it is just lying on its side and doesn't seem to be
attaching/burying itself to anything. I left it alone till this
afternoon when I went to great trouble to bury the foot.
<Good>
The LTA is very top heavy and the slightest current from either my sump
return or powerhead (MaxiJet 900) would blow it away.
<Mmm, needs much deeper sand... several inches perhaps>
Finally, I was able to build a little mound for it, and it was sitting
up at about a 45 degree angle. I went and ate dinner and when I came
back it had extended itself and plopped right back down horizontal on
the sand. I tried to feed it a pea sized piece of shrimp yesterday, and
its tentacles held on to the food. I watched it for about 10-15 min.s
and it slowly brought the food closer to its mouth. I had to leave, but
when I returned the food was gone, although I don't know if it ate
it. I was hoping you could take a look at the attached pictures and
give me any indications on the health of the anemone.
<Does have the appearance of a very nice, healthy specimen>
I know they are delicate and I get worried when it starts acting
funny. Also, any insight on this thing attaching? I don't want to
stress it out too much by trying to bury it (its tricky) repeatedly.
<... Really needs a much larger world... with deeper substrate. Please
read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
The linked files above. Bob Fenner> |
|
 |
Unhappy Anemone 9/16/06
Hi Crew!!
I think I have a very sad anemone (red long tipped). It has moved all over the
place, it went from the light to hiding under some rocks. I doesn't open very
much any more. I purchased it early July. I have T-5 lighting, Berlin protein
skimmer, 2 power heads to circulate the water. For fish I have clownfish, yellow
tang, emerald crabs, hermit crabs, 2- cleaner shrimp, royal Gramma, coral
Gramma? ( I think that is what it is), green star polyp, candy cane coral, red
mushrooms. I tested first Sept PH 8.2, Nitrate 5, nitrite 0.1 ammonia 0 ,
calcium 420-440, alkalinity 3. I do a 5 gallon water change weekly and add 1 cap
iodine and strontium & molybdenum. Am I doing something wrong that is causing
the LTA to be in distress. I was also having trouble with my mushrooms. They
were flat to the rock, also look like they had white dots on them. I think I had
them to close to the light I moved them to the bottom of the tank. They now seem
to lift up like they have life to them now. But if you have any suggestions for
them as well I will certainly appreciate it. Thanks hope to hear from you soon.
Thanks for all your suggestions
Janice
<<Janice: My LTA is under 400W SE MH lighting. Normally, people don't add such
additives to the water. Assuming your anemone has enough light, you should be
feeding it. Are you? I feed mine 1/2 of a silverside every few days. Best of
luck, Roy>>
LTA/Health/Systems - 06/07/2006
Hi,
<Hello Charity>
I was reading through your anemone faq's and came across the advice to never buy
a white anemone.
<Think it meant a bleached anemone.>
I was at the local fish store and had been researching and wanting a LTA for a
while. Somehow I missed that advice before.
I have a:
55 gallon long aquarium
Wet/dry
Excalibur skimmer
1 pygmy bicolor angel (6 months in tank)
1 maroon clownfish (3 yrs in tank)
1 yellow tang ( 1 year in tank)
1 hippo tang (1 inch, 1 year in tank)
4 turbo snails
1 rock of mushrooms
1 green star polyp
1 Montipora orange
2 strips of coral life 65 *2 50/50 lights (260 w)
1 strip of 40 watt no fluorescent lights
Ammonia:0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate 10 ppm but did have a spike the night he was added. We did a 30 gallon
water change that night.
Calcium: 380 (slowly raising it up)
Ph: ranges from 8.0 to 8.2
I have included pictures showing the decline over the last few days. Is there
any chance of survival? I feed him silversides. The first night he
took it immediately to his mouth. It has gotten slower over the last couple of
days but he does still eat.
<For starters, never attempt feeding an anemone until he anchors down and
blooms. None of the pics indicate an anchoring took place.>
Any advice you could provide would be wonderful!
<It is not recommended having fish other than clowns in the company of
anemones. Also looks like water flow may be a little low. Is your total flow
at least 600gph? I will post a link or tow here for you to read along with
related links above. Will provide a link with info on their care, requirements
and keeping. Do read along with related articles shown above title.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm>
Thanks!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Charity
<<James... where's the original msg., pix? RMF>>
Re: LTA/Health/Systems - 06/07/2006
Hi James,
<Hello Charity.>
Thanks so much for the quick reply.
<You're welcome.>
I do have 605 gph flow rated return on my tank.
<Do take into account head pressure loss. Will not have an actual 605gph,
especially if the pump is of the powerhead type.>
He was anchored to the glass under the sand at one point but he has fallen over
and remained since my maroon has been bothering him. Should I move the sand back
again.
<Not necessary, the LTA should anchor itself in the evening when there are no
menacing fish around. You could put a clear
acrylic/plastic perforated container over him until he anchors. Will have to do
the perforations yourself, unlikely you will find anything
like this.>
I will do the readings you suggested.
<I hope you do. We just do not have the time to elaborate on all the details of
keeping anemones, that is what the Wet Web Site
is for. Can learn much by reading FAQ's on the subject also. Do learn/use.>
Thanks again!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Charity
Re: LTA/Health/Systems - 06/07/2006
The link above has a title but no information.
<Mmm, hasn't been penned yet, correct, Bob? Other articles on anemones will
steer you right since they share similar
requirements/needs. James (Salty Dog)> <<Correct James... there are many such
articles/topics to be written... Not just by me! You may likely have more
accurate, complete information re actinarians use in captivity than moi... RMF>>
LTA behavior, health, systems 2/2/06
Hi guys!
wonderful site, great advice! Like many before me and very unfortunately many
after me in July 2005 I made an impulse purchase, I purchased a long
tentacle anemone. Everything was fine till about a month ago. Here are parts
"article" I wrote for my website (to read it all
www.homereefkeeping.com) it will explain my predicament:
<Thank you for this>
We bought an anemone in July of 2005. We got our Long Tentacle Anemone (LTA with
a bright red stock) along with 2 True Percula Clownfish. The first
mistake we made was not researching anemones and finding out how to care for
them prior to making our purchase. Our second mistake was buying it on impulse.
<Very common>
It lived in it’s cave for a while it would expand and half went from a pale
cream color to a “dusky pink”, the other half being sheltered from the bright
metal halides stayed the pale cream color. In mid October it moved from the cave
to an opening in the rock on the left hand side of the tank. It would
expand to the size of a typical dinner plate. We would feed it medium/large
sized (about 1/3 of a shrimp) pieces of raw, thawed shrimp every 5 days or
so.. It would take the food readily, fold back on itself, and would ingest the
food given. The entire anemone turned a healthy “dusky pink”
<Yes... thank goodness energy/food provided by you through feeding... inadequate
light response>
Today’s date is January 28, 2006 and since December (unfortunately I did not
keep records, or dates) the anemone had been acting “strange” for the last
month. It would no longer expand fully, it had become difficult to feed, would
retract on itself. It hasn’t completely lost it’s color.
<Yes, bleaching...>
Approximately 5 days ago the anemone “fell” through the rocks, for about a day
it hid under the rockwork; 3 days ago it moved to the back of the tank where it
has been laying
on its side. I thought it had died and tried to move it only to find out that it
has attached itself solidly onto one of the rocks. For the last 2 days I’ve
been feeding the anemone shrimp (that I put through the blender) and Mysis with
a turkey baster.
Here’s where opinion vary; where I had read to feed the anemone large meaty
chunks, on another site it said to feed it small shredded pieces of “meat”.
After a bit of consideration and seeing what we’d been through with our anemone
I am most certainly starting to think that the shredded option makes a
lot of sense. If you feed pieces of food that are too large the anemone cannot
digest them and slowly expels the food. Thus making the anemone slowly starve,
and all the while you think you’ve been feeding it.
<Mmm, as long as the food is taken, ingested...>
Well we are now Jan 31st, the anemone has gone back under rocks where I can't
get to it's mouth, it inflated it's stock huge today and seemed the have some
kind of line down the middle, now (4hrs later) it's slowly deflated itself.
yesterday I saw its oral cavity and it was huge, much bigger than I'd ever
seen it, today I can't see it so I don't know. Because it's under rocks I can't
tell for the life of me if it's splitting, dying or just taking me for a
ride on a nasty roller coaster (worried it's dying, then it looks "ok" then it
disappears) Has anyone ever seen an anemone split?
<Oh yes>
How does it act before splitting?
<Sometimes "out of the ordinary"... often not>
what else could be wrong with it?
<... a lack of light, circulation, metabolite poisoning, a dearth of biomineral,
alkalinity...>
I have a 65 gallon tank, 80lbs of Live sand, 120lbs of LR, a galaxy coral, a
frogspawn coral,
<... Oh, and allelopathy... chemical competition. These animals are problematic
in the same water>
2 true Percs, a lawnmower blenny, 2 cleaner shrimp, scarlet crabs, blue legged
crabs and an assortment of snails. The shrimp molt almost every 2 weeks.
My water parameters are as follows : ammonia: 0, nitrite: 0 nitrate:0
phosphates:0-0.5 (gha prob...) ph: 8.0 to 8.3 depending on the time of day,
temp: 79F salinity: 1.025 other than a drop in phosphates the water has been
stable since it cycled in May 2005
I have a protein skimmer, 3 powerheads, a PhosBan/ROWAphos fluidizer (long
cylindrical thing for active carbon and phosphate remover) up until 3 days ago
had a Eheim canister filter (stopped it to see if it was the cause of high
phosphates and my phosphates have dropped from 0.5 to 0)
Thank you for all your help
Catherine
<Needs to be in a different system (w/o the Oculinid, Euphylliid) and more
light... at least. Bob Fenner>
Anemone acting strangely... LTA in a ten gallon... 1/31/06
Hi there,
Fist of all, I should say that I've read over a lot of the already answered
postings, and I can't find something that sounds just like the
issue I'm having with my LTA. I'm sorry if you already have answered this,
though, and maybe I'm just using the wrong search keywords.
<Possibly... but may not be there. WWM will never be "done">
Anyways, about my anemone. I purchased a gorgeous LTA from the LFS a little
less than a
week ago. The man at the store told me to make sure I have strong circulation
around the anemone, feed it silversides, and make sure to change
my 96-watt bulbs if they are over a year old. I did change my bulbs (they were
about two years old) and made sure all circulation was strong (I even
added a powerhead and bubble wall). I slowly acclimated the anemone through
about a one and a half hour acclimation of adding small amounts of my water
to the bag water.
<Were the new/old water qualities about the same?>
The anemone moved around the tank for several days
<A bad sign>
until it finally settled in two days ago between some live rock. It inflated
quite nicely and my clownfish seemed to show signs of accepting it (he was
nudging it and laying on it). I then fed it a light feeding of brine shrimp
just to see if it would eat--it accepted it willingly. Then, yesterday
morning, the anemone had moved again and looked absolutely horrible. It was
laying on it's side, the tentacles were shriveled and limp looking, and
there were large globs of slime and large, black, curled looking balls coming
out of the anemone's mouth.
<Very bad sign>
I called the fish store and they said it was most liking ridding itself of
waste. Today it has moved again and still
looks the same (more black balls have appeared and it's difficult to discern the
tentacles). My question is, is it ridding itself of waste or is it dying?
<A bit of both>
I have a ten gallon aquarium (yes, I know 10-gallons are dangerous,
<... not able to sustain this animal>
but I have very stable conditions with 8.2 pH, 0 ammonia, nitrite, and 0-10
nitrates), 96-watt 50/50 PC lamp, strong filtration with a Skilter,
powerhead, and bubble wall, and about 20-30 lbs of live rock. The temperature
stays steady at about 82º. The tank is about 2.5 years old and
has had a clownfish and coral banded shrimp living in it happily the entire
time. Should I get the anemone out, or will it revive itself?
<Too likely it is dying, will take the rest of your livestock with it... This
animal may well have not been well-adjusted from wild-collection, had troubles
no matter what was done with it, but placing it in such a small volume... very
small chance of success. Bob Fenner>
Any help is
greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
~Jonathon
Re: Anemone acting strangely 2/1/06
Thanks for your help. I finally decided to take the poor thing out and toss
it... It was beginning to cloud my water slightly and I figured it had to
be dying. I had great luck with a BTA about a year ago (it lived 8 months!),
but I guess I should just give up on anemones since my tank is so
small.
Thanks again,
Jonathon
<Ah, yes. Bob Fenner>
LTA Injured
>Dear Crew:
>>Dear Angie, using Jeffrey's email.. Marina here.
>I have a 44 pent saltwater tank w/an undergravel filter/Power Sweep 228
powerhead, Eheim Classic 2217, JBJ power compact lighting (1 36w
actinic, 1 36w 10K), 1 15w Marine-Glo, and a crushed shell
base. The depth is 22".
>>Ok. Since this question, I'm assuming, is about a long
tentacle anemone, I'm wondering why you've gone with an undergravel filter
(assuming you're new to saltwater).
>Currently, I have about 15 lbs of live rock, 1 Gorgonia, 1 flowerpot coral
w/barnacles (these look like skeletal hands, it's really cool), 1 Montipora
w/button polyps, a large hunk of Porites, some mushrooms, Ricordea, and what I
think to be "waving hands" coral (growing like crazy).
>>That would probably be Xenia.
>I also have a panther grouper, a Fiji damsel, a cleaner shrimp, a red fire
shrimp and a curlicue anemone that I've had for 2 years.
>>You've had *that* mix of fish for two years??? I would expect
the panther (which is in a pitifully small tank for its ultimate adult size) to
begin slurping up what fits in its mouth as soon as it thinks they'll fit.
>All are doing great! Ph is 8.4, salinity is 1.025, temp is
76, no ammonia, 'trites or 'trates. (Pods and serpent stars are
throughout substrate and live rock.) Recently, I added an LTA and
noticed that its pedicle was damaged (don't know if it was during collection or
bagging at the fish store).
>>Uh oh.. rough handling, bad juju.
>It looks like a white ragged rip about 1/4" long across the foot, which
is 3" in diameter. It wants to anchor but won't/can't (it seems
to hover over the substrate, not quite off, but not quite in) The
coloring is great and otherwise seems healthy. Is this anemone doomed
or is there a way I can facilitate its healing? (I plan on upgrading the
lighting to 2 55w PC bulbs instead of the 2 36w PCs within the next month.)
>>Glad to hear you're going to upgrade that lighting. I
strongly suggest you set up a small (ten gallons should do) hospital tank, and
line it with well-washed Astroturf (yes, Astroturf!). This helps
removal once the anemone has healed. I would line all surfaces
(remember, you don't have to fill the tank all the way up with water) with the
turf. From here you have two choices; you can either keep water
quality pristine as you do in your main and observe, or you can begin treating
with Spectrogram. In either case, handle the animal with care.
>Your site is incredible, one of the most informative I have ever seen on the
web. Thank you in advance! Angie S.
>>Thank you, and you're welcome. I do hope this
helps. Marina
LTA Injured - Pt. II
>So sorry about my husband's previous question about undergravs. I
told him to look through the FAQs first!
>>You've made my biggest smile for the day so far.
>Thanks again for the response, but we are taking the LTA back to our LFS
today and getting credit or a better specimen.
>>Sounds like a good idea to me. Though, upon reading our FAQs,
you'll notice that we strongly discourage keeping motile cnidarians (anemones)
with sessile inverts, as they can move about and inadvertently sting them to
death. Just so you're aware of the possibility.
>Have relocated the grouper to our trigger tank (don't gasp, they
are about 3" compared to his 5" and either he is really docile -he
thinks he's a dog!- or we feed him really well and regularly) and all are
getting along.
>>No gasping here, I've had panthers and found them to be sufficiently
"froggy" for lots of triggers.
>Thanks again for such informed people running a superb site!!! Angie
S. (Using Jeff's email again!!)
>>You're quite welcome, and thank you! Marina
Anemone health/husbandry 2/11/04
First thanks for the website and for all I have learned reading.
<very welcome my friend... continue to learn and share>
I have a question about my LT anemone. (Hope the attached picture
comes through) I have had this anemone in my 180 for about two
months. The aquarium has been up for about seven months. My
lighting is VHO about 420 watts.
<hmmm... low light indeed. Needs to be around 500-600 watts (min) for most
corals or anemones>
This leads me to my question. Can this LTA thrive under this lighting
with supplemental feeding.
<hard to say... the feedings would have to be very heavy and nutritious
(varied, gut-loaded and or laced... HUFA rich supplements, etc) if it even
worked at all. I would suggest the addition of at least one 150 watt double
ended 10k K HQI halide or comparable>
I have two retro 175w halides I have been thinking about adding to my canopy,
but I have heat concerns.
<halides really do not produce any more heat than properly installed
fluorescents which need to be no more than 3" off the surface of the water
to be effective (note this with your present VHOs). Halides at 6-9" with
adequate ventilation are no trouble at all. The common problem is flawed canopy
designs which are poorly vented>
The LTA has moved a couple of times but seems to have settled in a spot. The
tank gets some sunlight, but more toward the other end than where the LTA has
settled. Does it appear healthy?
<the pigmentation seems good>
It expands and contracts often during the day - sometimes almost completely
under the liverock. Thanks for your advice.
<please also note that you will have far bigger problem in t along run if
this anemone is (unnaturally) mixed in with sessile corals. See biotope info on
anemones. Best regards, Anthony> |
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LTA quarantine
I have searched your info and can't seem to find quarantine procedure for
anemones, if their is one.
<Here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anempt2.htm>
I have bought a LTA and the LFS is holding it until I
find out a correct quarantine procedure--I seem to know more about fish than
the LFS if you catch my drift--which is scary. I consistently quarantine my
new fish and would like some help on this anemone. Please advise. Thanks
<Bob Fenner>
Long tentacle anemone who isn't happy
Hello and thanks for the great info on your web site.
I have an LTA who has been in my 38 gallon reef tank for 2 months. Initially,
when I introduced it, it took over a week to settle in and bury its foot. Since
then it has been healthy, eating small pieces of frozen (thawed) shrimp, and
interacting well with my tomato clown fish. About a week ago its tentacles
retracted and it has almost buried itself in the substrate in a small cave area
under a piece of live rock. It is mostly in the shade and does not open up much
during the day, but closes entirely during the night.
Its tentacles have been almost gone for about 1 week now and I am very concerned
for its health.
<You should be>
I know that my tank is small for an anemone, but my water quality is good:
Nitrates and nitrites are 0, phosphates are 0.25 to 0, calcium is 380, pH is
8.3-8.4, and I have 110 W PC lighting and 60 W NO fluorescent lighting.
Is there anything I can do to help my anemone?
Thanks so much.
Kevin England
<Take the long read through our coverage on this and other large anemone's use
in aquariums... Much could be amiss here... for instance, a mis-mix with other
cnidarians... Bob Fenner>
Anemone question! 7/24/05
Greetings -- seems like there's a ton of people asking questions about
anemones. I'm now one of them!
<People usually house them inappropriately (i.e.. keeping them in reef tanks) so
they tend to have a lot of problems with them>
I picked up a long tentacle from the local fish store about two weeks ago. He's
huge, and has looked great in the tank. I fed him a small bit of krill -- under
1/4", from what I've read on the site. I feed him generally every four days.
<Sounds good>
Anyway, when I went to work this morning I noticed he looked a little smaller,
but not a big deal. When I got home, he looked completely dead; no water in
tentacles at all, wasn't gripping the rock anymore (had fallen over on its
side), etc. Huge red base was just sitting out in the open. The mouth wasn't
open though. I checked water parameters and things looked fine (temperature
holds steady at 80-82 degrees in the tank all day. The LFS was closed at this
point so I figured I'd have to wait until tomorrow. I went out to the store and
came back and noticed its mouth was now open basically all the way, and that it
looks like it spit something out... a brownish substance. I've propped him up
between a bunch of rocks, and dug a hole in the sand for him so that he'll stand
up... but I don't know what else to do. It keeps trying to stand up; some of
the tentacles will inflate, and it'll rise up several inches from the base, then
fall back down again. If I prop it back up between rocks, it repeats the cycle
and just gets taller and taller until it flops over again.
<Sounds like it's on the verge of death, sorry to say>
I have no other anemones, and the tank has been running for about a year and a
half. None of the fish are picking at it that I've seen. I have a leather
coral on the other side of the tank that appears to still be doing well. The
tank is a 36g bowfront. I don't have a protein skimmer. Lighting is 130W PC
(one true actinic).
<You have nowhere near enough lighting. Next time, ask questions first,
purchase second>
Any clues? I know it's hard to explain without pictures and without being here
to see it, but I just find it weird that it would have died that quickly.
<I don't. Improper collection, improper acclimation, stress, low energy
reserves, combined with poor lighting>
I just checked my water parameters again; the water doesn't smell but my
alkalinity and nitrates are way above normal (pH 7.8, alkalinity 260, nitrites <
0.5 ppm, nitrates 100 ppm).
<Well that explains the death right there. Horrible water quality - your pH
should be ~8.2+ at night, nitrites should be 0, nitrates should be less than
5ppm measured as nitrate ion>
I'm going to do a water change tomorrow and see if that cures those problems
(can't do it tonight, no supplies, it's midnight).
<Please do, and please read further about the husbandry of marine
aquariums. Look into your filtration/water circulation>
Thanks
<No problem. With proper conditions, anemones can outlive their owners, but
those conditions do need to be met. A few weeks of diligent reading should
ready you, and give you time to get your tank in order>
- Will
<M. Maddox>
More Anemone Woes… 9/23/05
<Adam J here.>
Bryan here and I must first say that this is the best informative website I have
found on marine life, keep it up you guys are the best!
<Yeah I like this place too.>
My question is about 2 LTA's I have in my 55gal, these are the only two inverts
in the tank and not sure exactly how there health is. First tank conditions
Ammonia-0
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-12
<Try getting this as close to zero as possible, increasing the frequency of
water changes is the easiest way.>
Ph-8.5
Salinity-1.022
Temp-77
Substrate-crushed coral
Seaclone 100 skimmer
330 BioWheel
Maxijet 900 powerhead
<You may want to add a few more of these.>
Lighting- 2ea 15w Actinic 03 blue, 2ea 15w Actinic full spectrum lights (I hope
tomorrow I will be adding 1 ea 110w
Actinic 03 blue light and 1 ea Aquasun 110w white light (both are VHO bulbs)
<More lighting is definitely needed, as the current scheme is highly
insufficient for the anemones, if they continue to be subjected to this they
will meet a quick demise, so yes please upgrade.>
40lbs live rock (just coming to life, started them as base rock, but have
awesome coralline growing now)
15 hermits
1-Clarkii, 1-yellowtail damsel, 1-purple Anthias, and 1-yellow tang (very small
and will move as he get older)
<Glad to hear it.>
Anyhow, the blue LTA I placed in the middle of the tank on a rock, overnight it
move down the rock to a spot in between three rocks where there is water flow,
but not very strong and not in the brightness area of the tank (can't see if it
foot is buried or not). This does puzzled me because right now lighting levels
is not where it needs to be.
<Not really puzzling at all, the anemone is doing what comes naturally, moving
to the substrate in which it can hide its “foot.”>
The Clarkii has taken to it very well, in fact, unless he is coming out of the
LTA at night he has not come out for 2 days, not even to eat.
<You can use a turkey-baster to direct food to him.>
The colors look fine, but is there a chance it's dying?
<Without food and light….yes it will eventually die.>
I am not sure it is eating since the Clarkii will not leave. I started feeding
it ChromaPlex and also use iodine supplements.
<I would use “heavier” meats of a marine origin, (i.e. squid and krill).>
On to the green/purple LTA, from the time I put this one in, it went from being
4" to pretty much closing up. I can't tell if it is moving or if it is just the
current pushing it around. I gave it a little help by placing next to two
rocks, but still nothing, just laying on the bottom on it's side.
<Not a good sign.>
Until my slow shipment of lighting arrives which was suppose to be here before
the LTA's, I have place a Halogen light next to the tank shining in LTA
direction, is this a bad idea?
<Better than nothing.>
I also notice that it's mouth stays open for extended periods of time, and
occasionally the base inflates for awhile than deflates. What is going on with
this LTA?
<Likely in a slow demise at the moment.>
Should I move the LTA to a hospital tank where I can provide 3-4w per gal? Until
my other fixtures arrive?
<Moving the animal may further stress it, leave it be for now.>
Also the foot on both LTA's look fine when placed in the tank and still do
(bright orange/red). Should I be worried?
<Well to be honest these anemones rarely acclimate and thrive in captivity, for
the average hobbyist I rarely see them live longer than 2-3 months, they do best
in shallow tanks with a DSB in which to bury their foot. They also prefer
“intense” lighting. To give them the best chance, keep water quality pristine
and target feed 1-2 times weekly. Furthermore having two in a 55 gallon is not
a good idea, I have seen up to 30” in diameter. Please read in the LTA FAQ’s for
more detail
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ltafaqs.htm .>
Thanks Bryan
<Adam J.>
Long Tentacle Tangled Anemone 10/11/05
Greetings and thank you for such a great site!
<Hello, and thank you for the kind words.>
I purchased 1 LT anemone a few days ago and have been very concerned with its health. Several of the little critter's tentacles appear to
be tangled within one another. Imagine long clown balloons used for making balloon animals. The poor little tentacles seem to be tied up
in this very fashion! I have observed 2 separate spots involving about 4 tentacles each. It almost seems like there is some fiber
constricting these little clusters!
<It may appear to be tangled but I can assure you that this is not a problem. They will never be sticking up from the base at a 90 degree angle swaying in perfect unison as a popular cartoon would suggest.>
Additionally, it seems to have a difficult time staying "stuck" in its spot.
<Anemones often have trouble adjusting to captive environments. It may still be finding the spot it wants.>
It will appear to be stuck into the crushed coral only to roll over a few hours later and then recover once again. Should I attempt to move it to a rock for better "hold" and/or lighting?
<No you can damage it in this way, furthermore the Long Tentacle Anemone is properly placed in the sand bed and not the rock work.>
Its mouth is closed and it tentacles are inflated (save the "tangled" ones).
I have a 55 G tank w/ 55 pounds of live rock
Emperor 400 and Aqua Clear 70
Berlin Air Lift skimmer
<You may want to upgrade this eventually, if its working out and you have no nutrient problems then disregard this.>
Two 65 watt 10,000K and two 65 watt True Actinic compact fluorescent Lamps
<These may be inadequate for the anemone, monitor it for signs of bleaching and be sure to feed it once per week.>
All test show levels at 0 (Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite)
pH hovering at 8.1-8.2
Any help you could give me is much appreciated.
<Read here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm, and read the linked FAQ’s as well.>
Brooke
<Adam J.> LTA deflated Tentacles / Cyano Problems 11/7/05
Good Afternoon,
I have a couple of questions regarding my 55g reef. I believe I may have a
problem with my tank as I am experiencing some Cyano problems. Currently my
water parameters are as follows:
Salinity 1.026
pH 8.2
Ammonia .5 -1
<Trouble>
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0
KH 10
My anemone will open it's mouth everyday expelling a slimy substance and it's
tentacles are deflated.
<A good clue... something is amiss>
It seems to almost flip inside out almost everyday. I know an anemone in general
is hard to keep, but it was fine for the first two months with the water
chemistry not changing much. My maxima clam and pipe organs are doing just fine
though. Everything else in the tank is fine except a yellow tang that has died
recently from unknown causes, my best guess is starvation as the seaweed I've
been trying to feed her is getting taken away by my Clarkii clown.
I actually only have about 25lbs of live rock and 15lbs what was sold as live
rock but seemed like base rock. So if I count them, it'll be 40lbs which is
probably too little for a reef tank.
<Is fine for this size, shape, type system>
I also have about 30lbs of Lava Rock
<This may be problematical... I would at least have the water tested for iron
content>
I hope will eventually become "live." Should I buy more live rock?
<Would help, yes>
And if so, where can I purchase it at your site?
<Mmm, we don't sell anything (other than the books, pix we produce...)>
Here is my tank set up.
Standard 55 gallon
80lb live sand
260w power compacts with 130w 10,000k and 130w actinic
Tidepool I
Mag Drive 7
AquaC Urchin with Maxijet
And its inhabitants:
2 Damsels
Clarkii Clownfish
Fire Shrimp
3 peppermint shrimps
2 conch
1 brittle star
15 blue leg hermits
10 red leg hermits
15 Astrea snails
2 emerald crabs
bubble coral
Maxima Clam
Pipe Organ
LTA
Rusty gorgonian
Various feather dusters
Thanks for all your help!
<I would keep an eye on the anemone, be ready to siphon/vac it out if/when it
dies... something is awry in your system chemically... I would remove the lava
rock precautionarily (is this a word?),
<<Not that I can find (other than a specific use in translated online Islamic
texts), but we get your meaning. Marina>>
and look into adding some new LR to replace it. Bob Fenner> | |
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