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Euphyllia and possible allelopathy...
Platygyra look up, comp. 4/15/12 Favites pentagona, care 11/19/08 Hey all, <Hi Jeremy Mich here.> I just won a fairly large (6"x10") Favites pentagona from a raffle at my LFS. <Congratulations!> I can't seem to find a lot of information thought on placement/feeding/etc. <You will likely have to look for care more generalized to Favites, as there is not to much written specific to this species. You can find some info here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/faviidae.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/faviidfdgfaqs.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/faviidbehfaqs.htm > It's a beautiful blood red w/ green centers that should make a nice edition to my tank, but I want assure it's survivability as much as any of us really can. <Is always a pleasure to see responsible reef keeping.> I have a 120g with LR stacked as high as 18-20" in some portions with both a 2x150w MH fixture and a 4x65w PC fixture with a mix of spectrums from 6700k/10000k PC actinic PC and 20000k MH (hopefully a nice blend of usable spectrums while maintaining a nice aesthetic appearance). <Wow! That's a nice diverse spectrum of light.> Does this guy have moderate lighting needs and eat small meaty bits as a lot of LPS do? <Generally Favites, prefer strong water motion and intermediate to strong light with branching and encrusting forms preferring less light. They do appreciate small meaty bits and in nature will generally feed when the light grows dim.> Or is there some other specific needs I should worry about? <Just good husbandry, proper acclimation and placement as sweeper tentacles can be a concern. Good luck with your new acquisition.> Jeremy Johnson Seattle, WA <Michelle Lemech Gouldsboro, PA> Caulastrea, Faviid gen., sys. - 04/17/07 Hello crew, <Hi Nick, Mich with you today.> First off I just want to thank you all for such a great site. <Welcome! Glad you find it helpful!> It's been a very long time since I last wrote do to all the great info you guys provide. After many hours of reading on this site and others I would like some clarification on a couple of Q's. <Go for it!> First the stats; 55gal. with 29 gal. sump\refuge with 20 lbs. LR Caulerpa and Chaetomorpha in the fuge, 4"-6"DSB in main and refuge, 70lbs. LR in main, Pipe organ (doing great), purple mushrooms (doing great), Vietnamese Zoanthids (doing O.K.), Caulastrea (doing O.K.), small piece of some kind of Porites (doing good), 1 neon blue velvet damsel (starting to morph:(, 1 copperband butterfly ( not eating Aiptasia :( 1 scooter dragonet (just now eating prepared foods) <Wonderful!> 1 algae blenny, 1 peppermint shrimp (also doesn't eat Aiptasia :( <Mmm, I sensing a trend...> and 1 blue hippo tang (I know I know tank is to small but no fear my friends it is small yet and there is a brand new 125 gal. mega flow in the garage waiting for a stand which is on its way. <Yay!> This will be the future home for all fish except the copperband. Ammonia 0,Nitrite 0, total Nitrate 10-20ppm (is this still too high?) <Zero is better, but this isn't bad.> dKH 9, ph 8.0 in the morning and 8.2 at the end of the light cycle, temp. is a steady 79-80deg. Lights are PC 260 watt (130w 10,000k white and 130w actinic) this is a Coralife deally. The actinics come on 1hr. before the whites and stay on 1hr. after, 12hrs. of total run time. The fuge has a 40w 5,000k N.O. setup that stays on 24/7 <Chaetomorpha does better with a dark period, but if you have Caulerpa in the fuge also I would stick with the 24/7.> and works quite well (coralline algae even grows down there). Whew!! think that covers it for the stats. Oh yeah also has a canister filter for bio media and polyfilter. I perform a 10gal. water change twice a week with IO/DI water to keep nitrate in check. Clean my wonderful Seaclone 150 every 3 days to keep this wonderful technology working. By the way I was being sarcastic!! <Heeeeeeeeeeeee!> Although it does pull 2 cups a week of dark gunk a week if I stay on top of it. <Wow! I'm impressed!> I clean my canister out once every 2 weeks and replace the polyfilter once a month. The tank has been running for a year before any coral was added. O.K. time for the Q's. First I bought the Caulastrea about a week ago and I have been researching them for a couple of months. I have gotten some mixed suggestions but the general consensus is that it needs moderate flow and moderate light. So I placed it yesterday (after QT) in the middle of the tank about 10" from the light in a pretty low flow area. I have 2 MaxiJets one 1200 and one 900 pointing at the front glass at a 45 deg. angle. It is unobstructed and has direct light. Also I feed it once a day with mysis but after it eats, the mysis, about 30 min.s. later it pukes it back up. Is this because the food is too big? <Nope, what goes in must come out.> One more question if I may. The zoanthid I bought about a month ago is in the same type of conditions as the Caulastrea and in the first week had some die off and some polyps won't open. also there is some curling over of one side of several polyps. Any ideas on what this could be? <Not exactly, but try placing it in an area of higher/high flow at least temporarily. This often seems to help.> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time <Welcome!> and hope you all have great day!! <I wish the same to you! -Mich> Nick P.S I don't use any supplements and only proper ph 8.2 for my water 24 hrs. before use. <Very good.> About trumpet coral... health, systems - 05/20/2006 Hey guys, I bought a trumpet coral from my LFS (which I actually work at now) and it doesn't seem to be doing so hot. It looks normal during the day, but never really fully expands. At night it shows it sweeper tentacles and it eats regularly, but like I said it never fully expands and some of the polyps have some bone showing through the tissue. Is there anything I can do to help him out. By the way, my water tests 0 for Nitrite and Ammonia, Nitrate is less than 5 ppm and pH is around 8.2-8.3. I dose Kalkwasser and I do regular water changes to keep up trace elements and add a little purple up also to help with that. He is under 130 watts of power compacts about 4 or 5 inches from the surface. Any advice would be awesome. Thanks guys. <... I would take care re adding these adjuncts... do so in water to be changed out, that is pre-mixed, stored... And read here: http://www.google.com/custom?q=trumpet++coral+health&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com Bob Fenner> Australogyra zelli - 01/14/2006 Hello. <Hi Kevin.> Long time reader, first time writer (or something like that). <Hi, I'm Josh. I'm an aquaholic.> Anyway, can you tell me anything about Australogyra zelli? <Nothing from personal experience.> All I've been able to find on the web is that there aren't many colonies in captivity. Some pages say this is because it's a very rare import, while others say it's difficult to keep. <Both are accurate.> I recently saw a colony for sale and was mesmerized by it's uniqueness and beauty. I'd definitely like to give it a try if it's not too ungodly hard to keep. <Understood. It's not often imported so there's not much info. available on keeping them. It would seem that these should only be attempted by someone with a fair amount of "practice" on coral care and a good eye for "reading" their cues. If that's you, I'd say go for it before it is sold to/killed by a less informed aquarist. Would be a good coral to add to the "readily available" so if you try it, document everything to help others and the hobby in general.> Thank you for you time, Kevin. <Sorry I couldn't offer more specifics. - Josh> Candy cane coral growth, system 7/14/05 Hello to all, it's been awhile since I have posted a question, I have a large colony of candy cane coral about 3 years in my tank. The colony has about fifty heads and is growing well, however over the last month or so I have noticed an unusual growth pattern. Certain heads appear to be growing together where the tissue touches forming what looks like a bubble that eventually covers both heads. Nothing in the tank has changed except my upgrade to a Deltec calcium reactor. <Ahh!> As of 7/11 my parameters were Alk 10.2, Cal 420, PH 8.0-8.2, Mag 1330, Temp 78-80. The coral is mid way up in my tank with good flow and under (not directly) 250 watt HQI lighting. I am concerned about this coral as it is the only coral that appears to have this issue. Is there anything I can do? <Mmm, nothing you have to do...> Could this be an indication that fragging is needed? <Not needed...> Thanks Mike Winston <You have a situation of "natural development" in your aquarium here... with this Faviid, conditions... you can break it up, move parts elsewhere, but the growth you describe so well is to be expected, given the conditions you're providing. Bob Fenner> Re: Candy cane coral 7/14/05 Thanks for the reply, can you explain what you mean by "natural development" Thanks again. Mike <Will try... but the adverb "natural" throws me... The coalescing growth you mention is a foregone conclusion... given aquarium lighting, the abundance of calcium, balance with magnesium, alkalinity in a stable, less-than (here's that word again) natural circulated environment. BobF> Candy Cane Coral I was just wondering how fast a candy cane coral colony will grow, and start new colonies? Too many variables to give a good answer. Lighting, water quality, Ca level and nutrients for the coral all have roles in growth rate. James (Salty Dog)> Brain coral <Hello EAM917> We have a 46 gal reef tank which has been working for approx 7 months. A few months ago we got a green brain coral. It would change size during the course of the day and evening. Usually large during the day and much smaller in the evening.<Sounds normal> During the past 3 or 3 days it has not changed size, it is small. The sides appear to have some white coloring which we have not seen before.<Sounds like bleaching> Do you have any idea what is happening and what we should do.<Several factors can cause this. First, what kind of lighting are you using? Do you feed your corals? The hard corals of which the brain is a member of require very intense lighting of the proper spectrum to survive along with good water movement. Answer the questions I have asked and we can try to help you. James (Salty Dog)>Thanks Elizabeth Re: Brain coral, health Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. <You're welcome Elizabeth> We have never heard of bleaching, what is it & can it be corrected?<In a nutshell bleaching occurs when things are not to the corals liking> We use a coral life Aqualight double strip 34 in 96 w Actinic and 96 w 10000k square bulb. Water movement in the tank is good. We are using flake food for the fish and were never told by the store to use anything else. They said they would get their food from this. Do you think this coral can be saved.<What is the height of your tank? The PC lighting may not be intense enough for the brain coral. Corals don't require feeding on a daily basis but a weekly feeding is good. DT's phytoplankton is a good choice. As far as saving the coral, keep your lights on for 12 hours, replace the bulbs if they are over one year old, do 10% water changes weekly. There is no cure in a bottle that will save corals, just good sound maintenance of the aquarium is all you can do for now. James <Salty Dog)> (Thanks Elizabeth Re: Brain coral, health My husband said to tell you that the nitrite and ammonia is 0ppm however the nitrate is over 160ppm. Would that stress it.<yes, corals do require pristine water quality. This tells me you do not do 10% weekly water changes. This helps reduce the nitrate level by dilution.> He has put in a nitrate sponge<the nitrate sponge is fine but nitrates have to be controlled at the source of the problem or the levels will just return>in the filtering system to try to lower it earlier today and did a water change 6 days ago. The water temp is 78. Thanks Elizabeth<James (Salty Dog) Funny mushroom tentacles and feeding candy corals Hi I just set up a 26 gal reef tank about a month ago. I went to my LFS and purchased a small mushroom coral and a small red mushroom which was attached to a very small candy coral. Now the mushroom coral is doing ok and the little red mushroom looks good, but it appears to have some tentacles growing from underneath it!? << On a mushroom? I wonder if it is spreading skin to propagate. >> The tentacles are very thin white strands with a little black spot on each strand. Is this part of the mushroom or a bonus critter that hitchhiked with him?? With my horrible description is there any chance that you know what it is?? << Well it isn't anything to worry about. Do the strands move? If so I'll say it is a hitchhiker, if not then I'll say it is part of the coral. >> My last question is I read that I should feed the candy coral a few times a week but I have a lot of little white bugs in the tank (copepods maybe??) would this be food for the candy or what could I feed it?? << Well mainly feed it lots of light. I don't think micro shrimp will be consumed by candy corals, I think something like phytoplankton and Cyclop-Eeze are a better choice. >> Ok I lied one more question should I only feed the candy at night when its tentacle like things are out?? << I would feed it during the day. It will get use to it and often times extend tentacles during the day. >> Thanks so much for all your help!! Tammy Adding Caulastrea - 11/17/04 Hi all, I have a 90 gal FOWLR that I would like to add some corals with lower light needs. I have a 50/50 pc with a total of 260 watts (4 bulbs). My tank parameters are: ph 8.15 - 8.35 nitrites 0 ammonia 0 nitrates 5 Alk 10dKH calcium 400 phosphates 2.0 I am interested in a Caulastrea furcata, but be willing to try some others. Please advise. <Go for the Caulastrea. Midway in the tank would be great. I also, like Sarcophytons (any of them would suffice) placed midway to upper portion of the tank, Xenia anywhere in the tank, polyps, also would be excellent. Palythoas are always cool. Try some of the various branching soft corals, yellow, white, or green Neptheas (NOT Dendros) colt corals, etc. Always, and I mean always, strive to acquire captive coral propagations. No excuses. These are the best suited for reefkeeping in all cases, in my opinion. Ask for them at your LFS! Also, do research your animals before purchasing. Use our site, other sites, too. Reference books, other reef hobbyists, forums, and or reef clubs. Do diligent research for the best results. Thanks for participating! ~Paul> Thanks Todd
Candy cane coral care god love IPSF.com, but their freebies
freak me out! I got a free candy cane frag with a shipment. I have no
experience keeping corals. << Well they are certainly easier to
keep than fish. >> I can't keep it in the main tank due to my
Toby. I am currently keeping it in my 10 g. refugium. It has amphipods
and macroalgae, hermit crabs and has 65 watts of pc light. amm 0,
nitrite 0, nitrate 0, cal 370, alk normal range. I supplement weekly
with 2 part calcium, iodine and iron. The only potential problem I
foresee is that the ecosystem design has a very weak current. <<
That isn't ideal, but lighting is a big issue. >> Will this
coral survive in these conditions? I am also feeding it daily with
zooplankton, Cyclop-eeze and Sweetwater plankton. Are those foods good?
Any other things I need to be aware of? << Good foods, I'd
just put it wherever you have the most amount of light. >>
thanks, Angela << Blundell >>
Torch or Candy Cane coral Hello Crew, Another day in this
excellent hobby. Another day to worry about things huh? Quick question.
Do Candy Cane corals recover from damage? I have a cluster with 9
polyps but recently I was on vacation for 3 days and one of my triggers
damaged 3 of the polyps (1 now has tissue only in the middle - and the
other 2 were partially bitten). Will they grow the stony part back
(assuming they will not get damaged again? I made the mistake and left
the lights on every day and the trigger, which was left unfed, turned
against it. I have previously left my fish unfed for a weekend or so
but with no incident. I've had this coral for a year. I am adding
iodine/calcium/trace elements as per direction. I can see the tissue on
the coral trying to connect but I'm not sure if the stony part will
grow back? >>The coral should recover and the stony part may or
may not grow back. The important part is to make sure there is no
further damage. Are you testing for iodine and calcium and other trace
elements? A good rule of thumb is to only add what you can test for
because otherwise you can easily be overdosing or just wasting money. I
am not a big fan of adding anything other than a two part Ca solution
regularly, and with regular water changes your trace element levels
should stay at the correct level. Rich>> Keep up the good job - I
always consult your site when in doubt. It is an excellent source for
reference. Have a nice day.
Favites brain coral frag Hello All, << Blundell here. >> Love your website. I have an 85 gallon flat back hex tank. It will be a reef tank. << Difficult to light. >> I currently have about 50 lbs of live rock and a 4" DSB. A Remora Pro protein skimmer. I only intend to keep LPS corals and some zoanthids. The lighting is a single 175 watt MH with two 32 watt PC actinic bulbs for supplement. The light is hanging 6 inches above the tank. The rocks are situated in a mound under the light. The tank was cycled for four months before any fish were added. The current occupants are two Saddleback Clowns and two Neon Gobies. I only intend to add a couple more fish. Last Friday I was able to win a Favites - Abide and a button polyp in an auction from the Brooklyn Aquarium Society. << Hey, I almost came to speak there... I wonder whatever happened. >> It seems to be doing well about 12 inches from the top of the tank. Last night for the first time I was able to see it's sweeper tentacles. The Button Polyp opened right away and is the size of a half dollar and there seem to be four more polyps at its base. I have few questions, should the Favites be placed on the sand bed instead of on the rock. I know that open brain corrals should be placed on the sand, but does the same rule apply to the Favites. << In this case, I'd say up on the rocks so it is closer to the light. >> Should each green center be fed or does the whole colony benefit from an individual mouth being fed. << The whole colony benefits from a feeding, but I like to rotate feeding each mouth. >> Also, the Favites frag had a small half inch piece fall on the sand. It seems to have part of the brown wall and some of the neon green center. I also saw it extend very small, what I think are sweeper tentacles. And there is another piece that is about a quarter inch in size that has some neon and some brown wall. Can both these pieces survive? << Yep. >> I believe that both pieces were frags that were loose on the 3" frag that I won. Should I leave them on the sand or should I mount them on the rocks. << I'd probably mount them. >> Thank you very much in advance for all your help. Dan << Blundell >> Favia care Hi guys, been a while since my last question to you. Hope you can help out... << I hope so to. >> Picked up my 1st true coral about a week ago, a Favia Pineapple Brain. About 2 inches in diameter, lovely fluorescing yellow-green in color. At the time I was also replacing my light hood from one 10K white + Actinic (40W ea) with a PC hood, 2 10K white + 2 Actinic (65W ea) + lunar led lights. I was hoping this would be sufficient to sustain my brain. << That is something you should check BEFORE buying the coral. But in this case I think you'll be fine. >> To recap the tank real quick, its a 72 gal bow-front << Not much light for a 72 gal. >> + 10G ' fuge, approx 60lbs live rock. 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 10-15 nitrates. In my recent war against Cyano, I made sure I have aggressive circulation in the tank. 2 Maxijet 1200's, 2 MaxiJets 400's, & an Eheim compact (60gph) all on a Natural Wave time, arranged for an oscillating effect both high & low in the water column (high-left + low-right go 1st, then high-right + low left, on about 1 minute cycles). Filtration includes an Eheim Professional II (2 chamber, heated, marine compatible) & an AquaC Remora w/Maxijet 1200 + prefilter compartment. I placed the brain as high as I can currently, which is about 10 inches below the water surface (water column is approx 22 inches high overall). << Yeah keep it up high. >> I have not once seen my brain extend itself (sounds like a motivational issue, eh?). I've been feeding the tank about twice a week (beside regular fish feedings) alternating between ESV spray dried phytoplankton & Sweetwater jarred zooplankton. << I would add live phytoplankton or Cyclop-eeze or golden pearls. >> Now the brain has steadily been accruing what I am presuming to be diatoms on it. I consistently have a low-level growth of the stuff in the tank, presumably due to silicate in my well water (the well gets quite a bit of sand in it, a test kit for it is currently on order). Its not exactly covered with the stuff, but its slowly turning brown. << Increase the water flow around it. >> Info on Favias seems a bit spotty. Culled from myriad sites, my understanding is they should be relatively hardy, a good "beginner" coral, moderately tolerant of nutrients, requiring moderate current & not necessarily blasting light, & nocturnal in behavior. I believe I have met these conditions, but I just am not really sure if my Favia is still alive or not. << I wouldn't think of any stony coral as being a beginner coral. Certainly Anthelia and Xenia is the best beginner route. Maybe even mushrooms. >> One article had commented that they can accrue some detritus, but by giving them a bit more current, it should help clear it up. I tried to direct one of the MJ1200s to go right over it, but not so much that it gets blown off its perch. I understand that if the coral is nocturnal, it may be only very late at night that it comes out, & I just might not have stayed up late enough to see. << Well it can open in the day, if you feed it in the day. So that is why I suggest that live phytoplankton. That can really help out. >> So I guess what I'm asking, is how do I know if its still alive or not? I'll probably be getting an RO unit in due time for the well water, but that'll be a way down the road yet (looking hard at the Kold Ster-il). In the meantime, I am preparing to perform Boyd Enterprises Chemi-Clean on the tank, after which I will add Chemi-pure filter media to my Eheim. As always, thanks for your insights... << I'm not a fan of those products. I'd suggest water changes as well. >> Brainstorming, Pete Cushnie << Blundell >> LPS bleaching Hi Guys, << Blundell today. >> I have an LPS (some type of Favia) that had 'oozed' a quantity of white 'stuff' over the surrounding rock during the night. When I washed away the ooze, the polyps in that area had lost their color/flesh, and all that remains is skeleton ('damaged' area accounts for about 25% of coral). << Doesn't sound good. >> The same thing occurred a few months back with this coral, but on just a single polyp - didn't worry too much at the time as it seemed to recover OK, looked healthy enough, and was opening fully each evening. Won't bore you with all my water parameters but can't be too bad as I have quite a bit of stuff that I'm told won't possibly survive in tanks that are doing great (Goniopora, anemones, Gorgonians). Can you please explain this phenomenon? << Not really. Could be caused by lack of water motion, as many corals slime out to remove waste products. Increased water motion can help them. More likely a light problem (in my mind). But if all else is doing well, then I wouldn't guess that. Soooo, I guess I would do a small water change and wait it out. >> Cheers! << Blundell >> HELP !! Candy Cane Coral and Parasites 4/29/05 I've recently ran into a problem with a Candy Cane Coral Frag. It has been in my tank for a few weeks now and one of the polyps was damaged when I got it. The rest looked healthy and after a few days in my tank began developing good color and inflated polyps. The damaged polyp even seemed to be coming back. However, about a week ago I noticed white "things" (I'll refer to them as parasites from here on) all over the damaged polyp. I kept my eye on them and they would come and go but always overwhelming the polyp. <from the image these are clearly not parasites but instead are mesenterial filaments from the coral being stressed> So last night I decided to do a freshwater dip for 30 seconds, making sure to match pH and Temp. The parasites seemed to shrivel up and I thought I got them. However within minutes they came back in full force. <because of the stress of the dip> As I watched them seemingly come out of nowhere I noticed them begin to show up on the healthy polyps too. I watched this happen very slowly, too slowly to see these things moving. As far as I could tell they came from between the polyp and the skeleton and in some cases looked as if they were pushing through the tissue in the middle of the polyp. I documented the take over at the following site (thumbnails are clickable to a larger version) The first pic in the series is before the freshwater dip. http://users.arczip.com/manfrotto/images/Photohost/candy%20cane.html And this link will take you to the photograph I took of it this morning http://users.arczip.com/manfrotto/images/Photohost/candy_morning.jpg I've asked around and can't figure out what these are and I don't know what to do next. I appreciate you opinions and comments very much on this. Sincerely Michael <do a keyword search on our website and beyond for "mesenterial filaments". Continued good water quality and feeding/water flow will recover this coral in time. Have patience my friend. Anthony> HELP !! Candy Cane and Parasites II 8/31/04 Thanks Anthony
for getting back with me. I'm glad to hear that these
aren't parasites, I thought I was in for a
plague. I actually considered that these
may be a part of the coral but I always assumed, more or
less, that any defensive posture was expelled from the mouth
not from the sides of the coral < a common/understandable
assumption> and that they (the mesenterial filaments) would sway in
the water instead of clinging to the
polyp. I've not messed with the coral since that first
FW dip and it has begun to come back again, although I did loose the
one already damaged polyp. Not too worried about it though
since I know I can work on growing this frag without
concern. Thank you again for your
help. By the way, feel free to use any of those pics
as helpful reference if you'd like. Michael <thanks
kindly, my friend. Anthony> |
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