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FAQs about Faviid Coral
Reproduction/Propagation Related Articles: Faviid Corals,
Related FAQs: Faviids 1,
Faviids 2, Faviids 3,
Faviid Identification,
Faviid Behavior,
Faviid Compatibility,
Faviid Selection,
Faviid Systems,
Faviid Feeding,
Faviid Disease,
Stony/True
Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral
System Lighting, Stony Coral
Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral
Placement, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior,
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Propagation-the hard way 12/27/06
Hi Crew,
<Greeting! Mich here.>
With all of us writing in our problems, the casual observer may get the idea
that this hobby is just a pain.
<Hehehehehe! But we all know better!>
But there is lots to enjoy and there are many surprises.
<This is true, even more true when the surprises are good!>
I did not intend to split my candy cane which has two branches.
<Hee! Intent and action are not always equivalent.>
One branch has one very large polyp and a second branch that used to be one but
now is 3 distinct polyps <polyps>.
<Growth is good.>
I have a glass cover on my tank, the kind that has a
plastic hinge in the middle. I removed the hinge and have two glass pieces with
a half inch gap between them. Somehow I managed to drop one glass into the tank
and it hit the candy cane and I now have two candy canes, one with 3 polyps and
no base and the other with a base and one polyp.
<Oops, accidental fragging.>
I just stuck the branch into a small hole in my rock and all seems well.
<Should be, hopefully.>
I have a mushroom that I bought about 3 months ago. It is on a two inch rock
covered with purple coralline algae. I noticed a small lump at one side of the
rock and now it is a nice zoanthid polyp with a peach colored mouth.
<A good surprise! Very nice.>
I just discovered a feather duster under the mushroom. It open up
to about the size of a shirt button and the mushroom lift up as if to give it
some breathing room. The feathers start off as a grey/blue color and at the tips
they are yellow. The feathers look like they are v shaped and it looks as if
there is a black barb at the end of each yellow end.
<It sounds quite beautiful!>
I look around quite often and was surprised that I had not noticed it before.
<I think you could almost see something new everyday if you are observant
enough. It is an awe inspiring hobby! Thank you for sharing some of your
delights. It is always nice to hear!>
Happy holidays.
<Wishing you the best of the season! -Mich>
Re: Candy Cane...the polyp stands alone. 1/3/07
Hi Crew,
<Hi there! Mich with you again.>
I wrote in about a week ago about an accident with my candy cane. I have a glass
cover which fell into the tank and cracked off one branch with 3 polyps. At that
time I took the branch and put it into a small hole in a rock. What remained on
the original piece was two branches, one with nothing alive on it and the other
a fairly large polyp. There is hair algae on this piece so from time to time I
take a brush to it. Well, this time while I was brushing, the remaining polyp
came off just at the point
where the new growth attaches to the skeleton. I will explain how this polyp
looks. It has a brown ring with a teal inside. The brown part (which is smooth)
goes down the branch about an inch till the point where there is a hard rough
skeleton. I am not sure how much of the brown part is soft since I try not to
touch it. In any case the whole brown part came off the branch. I put it in the
sand and last night after the lights went out the tentacles did come out. Is
there anything else I should do?
<Hmm, Not such a good situation. The fact that the tentacles are still
expanding is a good sign. Though it is possible that this polyp could survive,
it is does not have a favorable prognosis. They best you can do at this point
is try to feed it and keep it clear of debris. Good luck. -Mich>
Favites Propagation 4/21/06
Hello Anthony and Crew,
Anthony,
<Antoine's no longer with us... but still on the planet. Try him over at
Marinedepot.com or Readingtrees>
hopefully you will be able to answer this one as this inquiry is directed
directly at one of the articles that you wrote regarding LPS propagation. In the
article you mentioned that you keep your Acanthastrea sp. as free polyps on
oolitic sand, and that you cut them every two weeks or so. I was wondering if
the same could be done to Favites pentagona?
<Yes, can be, though IMO/E is better to have a few polyps per fragged colony
(easier to cut, survivability higher...)>
The same method would be used, just slicing the polyps in half and letting them
regenerate on the sand bed, in a protected area so they do not get flipped over
by other animals in the system.
I understand that a daily feeding of meaty foods of marine origin via target
feeding is best for these organisms, is it possible to feed these so-called
"halved" polyps? If so is there any special method to be employed when feeding
the halved polyps?
Thank you very much,
Sheen
<Again, most Faviids are better "spliced and diced" as multiple corallites. Bob
Fenner>
Disintegrating Candycane polyp 10/13/05
Hi All, I've had my 34 polyp candycane now for approx. 1 1/2 years. Actually, polyp count was 24 when it was purchased and has since been splitting and looking really good. Within the last two weeks, I've noticed the outer edges on two polyps lose its fullness but not quite emaciated.
Then: 1) the mouths stayed open, 2) the center green flesh on one pulled away from the mouth causing a gaping hole and brown
mesenterial filaments are showing.
The other polyp's brown outer flesh in one location has started to drip, taking with it two spines!
It just hangs from the polyp. I've checked the FAQ section and was unable to come up with an example of my problem. I would appreciate it if you could help me figure out what's going on with my beautiful candycane before whatever it is affects the whole head.
<Congrats on your success with this coral! What you are seeing has been described by other aquarists and seems to be a form of reproduction. Eventually, the "dripping" tissue will fall free from the parent polyp, and if they find (or are placed on) a suitable substrate, they will survive and grow.>
Water parameters: SG 1.026, pH 8.1 (can't get it higher?), dKH 10.9, Alk. 3.66, CA 395 Nitrate 10, Nitrite 0, Amm 0, phos. 0. I do a 12 to 15 gal water change every week on my 55 gal. Thanks for your help. Lynn
<Keep up the good work! Best Regards. AdamC.>
Disintegrating Candycane polyps part 2 10/16/05
Hi Adam C, Thanks for the speedy reply and news that my candycane is reproducing. How is that different from each polyp splitting itself in half to form new polyps other than maybe dripping forms new individual colonies?
<I don't know, and I don't think anyone else does. Some suspect that it is stress related.>
Also, how about the polyp that developed a gapping hole around its mouth and one can see the
mesenterial filaments inside? I can see a couple of spines inside the hole. Has this polyp had it? If so, should I cut that particular stalk away? Thanks again for your help. Lynn
<It is hard to guess if this is part of the same process or not. I would keep an eye on it. As long as it does not develop signs of any kind of infection (brown or white jelly like material), I would not worry
about removing it. Best Regards. AdamC.>
Dying or propagating trumpet?
Okay Anthony, I drew my trumpet colony and the "fallen soldier", (and had fun doing it I may add)! Hope you can diagnose it now.
<actually a big help! And a good example of the importance of us all trying to use scientific names whenever possible. What you have is not a coral and arguably not a trumpet "coral" according to common name usage (not your fault.. you repeated as told <G>). What you have is a
Zoantharian... most likely Palythoa. Not a true coral but fairly called a reef invertebrate. Also known as button polyps, this creature is incredibly hardy! Often remains closed if it gets too much light or not enough food. The bud that fell off most likely was propagating indeed. My previous comments were in regards to the large polyped stony coral also known as trumpet or candy coral, Caulastrea furcata. My advice is to relax... these corals can remain closed polyped for some time! Do not move the colony around in different positions... this will delay the polyps opening. Do be sure to offer a tiny bit of food weekly or more if there is little or no fish
feeding in the tank. If the fallen polyps attached to the new rock quickly then it is a very good sign. Keep your eyes open for a fine brown diatom sheen or any necrotic infections. Keep moderate random turbulent water flow over it. Scrub any algae of debris off with a soft bristled tooth brush in a
separate bowl of seawater outside of the aquarium (discard water afterwards).>
Thank you, Pam
PS Hope you can manipulate the file, it's rather large. It opens with Microsoft's Photo Editor.
<best regards, Anthony> |
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Closed Brain Bubble- 5/28/03
Thanks to Anthony, the "doughnut surgery" on my overgrown toadstools
was a success, the patients are fine and children were born. [trimming the
perimeter of Alcyoniids to control growth]
<excellent to hear, my friend! If you took any pictures, please share them
with us>
My closed brain coral has done well for two years with little growth,
but it seems healthy with the green pockets brightly colored glowing
under the blue actinic. Lately, I see two bubbles growing along its bottom
edges, one is over an inch, the other about 1/2 inch. They are somewhat
transparent and have a green spot on them. Should I be concerned or
be doing anything?
<hard to say... could be a couple things... leaning towards bad: a change in
lighting (usually an increase from cleaned bulbs/lenses or new lamps) can cause
stress induced polyp bailout symptomatically similar to what you see. In other
cases, it is caused by aggression from an aggressive neighbor nearby or
touching>
There are two large polyp colonies on either side of the brain. Perhaps I should
remove some of them.
<Hello! neighbor>
I have too many polyps in my system but haven't come up with a method to remove
them other than pulling them off the rock one at a time with tweezers. Any
suggestions?
<yep... diagonal pliers that bite the rock at their base and skin them off
the substrate with a slight sliver of rock underneath. Much faster and less
damaging (fear of the polyps exuding palytoxin that harms the coral or you (!)
over time from you tugging on their heads with tweezers <G>>
I do have a green globe urchin which stays busy eating coralline algae, mostly
off the back of the tank where it is thick. He has never been seen near the
brain or other SPS corals.
<no worries... not suspected>
My water chemistry remains perfect with nitrates usually un-measurable and ORP
between 300 and 350. Ca at 350 to 400.Temp.is chiller controlled at 78F. Even
with R/O, D/I, ozone, macro algae refugium, less than 1/2 the recommended bio
load, regular bulb replacement, and weekly 10% water changes I still
have more than my share of red and brown algae. I conclude that this is
something that must be lived with. Do some people really live without it?
<possible... all about nutrient control. No nitrates does not mean no
nutrients. Just none that you have a test kit for ;) The skimmer is the key.
That and strong water flow (towards 20X)>
I'm off to Cozumel for a family diving trip with a new digital camera and case.
Does Bob use the "white balance" settings?
<not sure... I thought he mostly used Tequila to get the best shots>
Howard in Wisconsin
<Antoine in space>
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