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FAQs about Faviid Coral Feeding
Related Articles: Faviid Corals,
Related FAQs: Faviids 1,
Faviids 2, Faviids 3,
Faviid Identification,
Faviid Behavior,
Faviid Compatibility,
Faviid Selection,
Faviid Systems,
Faviid Disease,
Faviid Reproduction/Propagation,
Stony/True
Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral
System Lighting, Stony Coral
Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral
Placement, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior,
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BTA & Candy Cane Coral Concerns
9/11/07
Good Evening,
<Hi Jackie, Mich with you.>
I have what I would call a disastrous problem.
<Well, let's not panic just yet.>
About a week ago, my BTA decided to move from his location (of nine months) atop
a large rock.
He attempted to travel through the rock (why not over the rock??)
<Heehee! Why did the chicken cross the road?>
to the <get to the> other side. However, it appears that he is stuck.
<Mmm, perhaps, but I'm doubtful.>
A third of his body is on each side of the rock, and half is inside of the rock.
I don't imagine that he can survive for very long in this position. It does not
appear that he is doing anything to remedy this problem on his own.
<I suspect he may be trying to divide. Anemones often disappear inside the
rockwork during this process, yours just may be more visible.>
What, if anything, should/could I do to remove him from the rock?
<I would wait and see. It is unlikely that he is permanently stuck... think
Jell-O.>
On a different topic...what's the best way to feed (teeny tiny pieces of shrimp)
a Candy Cane coral? It's such a slow eater that when I place food in its tiny
tentacles, it's not long before one of my greedy shrimp
manages to confiscate the food.
<They can be buggers, can't they? I accidentally killed one of my cleaner shrimp
one time by trying to scoot him away from a coral I was trying to feed. A little
guilt there... The best thing I have found it to place the coral you are trying
to feed in an isolation container while they feed. A floating breeder container
works well. It's not the most convenient option but it does reduce the
frustration levels you begin to have with the shrimp.>
I'm afraid it will starve to death.
<Your Caulastrea likely won't starve but will definitely benefit from
supplemental feedings.>
Sincerely,
Jackie
<Cheers, Mich>
Pump on or Pump Off, No Need to Feed for a Week Away.
5/21/07
<Hi Sue, Mich here.>
Just a quick question. I have looked through multiple postings concerning
feeding, but have not found the answer to my question. I have had two candy
cane coral frags for about a month and have been feeding them during the day
with the pump off. They have been doing well and appear to be growing. My
question is this; is it totally necessary to leave the pump off while
feeding?
<It is a good practice and I would encourage you to continue doing so when
you can, but no, it is not necessary.>
I need to be gone for a week, and my "fish sitter" is not familiar enough
with fish husbandry to reset the protein skimmer if the pumps need to be
off. Can these lovely creatures go a week with just filtering what is
circulated in the tank if food is dumped in with the pumps on?
<Yes. Most corals and fish in a generally well-maintained, healthy state can
go for a week without food. It is generally better for the livestock to
have no food than to be in a system polluted with excess food from a well
intending fish sitter. Candy cane coral (Caulastrea) have zooxanthellae and
are photosynthetic. They should thrive when being provided supplemental
feeding as you are currently doing. That being said they will do fine
without any food for a week but will appreciate any they can grab while you
are gone!
Thanks in advance for the advice and your wonderful site.
<Thank you for your kind words! Mich>
Sue
Funny mushroom tentacles and feeding candy corals
Hi
I just set up a 26 gal reef tank about a month ago. I went to my LFS and
purchased a small mushroom coral and a small red mushroom which was attached to
a very small candy coral. Now the mushroom coral is doing ok and the little red
mushroom looks good, but it appears to have some tentacles growing from
underneath it!? << On a mushroom? I wonder if it is spreading skin to
propagate. >> The tentacles are very thin white strands with a little black
spot on each strand. Is this part of the mushroom or a bonus critter that
hitchhiked with him?? With my horrible description is there any chance that you
know what it is?? << Well it isn't anything to worry about. Do the strands
move? If so I'll say it is a hitchhiker, if not then I'll say it is part of the
coral. >> My last question is I read that I should feed the candy coral a few
times a week but I have a lot of little white bugs in the tank (copepods maybe??)
would this be food for the candy or what could I feed it?? << Well mainly feed
it lots of light. I don't think micro shrimp will be consumed by candy corals,
I think something like phytoplankton and Cyclop-Eeze are a better choice. >> Ok I
lied one more question should I only feed the candy at night when its tentacle
like things are out?? << I would feed it during the day. It will get use to it
and often times extend tentacles during the day. >> Thanks so much for all your
help!!
Tammy
Coral feeding 6/14/04
Hi guys hey if my coral is a zooplankton feeder can I just feed it mushed
Mysis shrimp or do I still need to get a zooplankton food for it? Is this ok as
a staple or should I aim for more variety?
<Depends on the coral. Please write back and let me know exactly what coral you
are talking about. As a general rule, the size of the polyps is a good
indicator. Larger polyps can accept larger food (although this is not
universally true). Best Regards. Adam>
Coral feeding 6/15/04
Adam or whoever else my coral is some kind of brain coral I think, collected it
myself. Has tan/brown ridges in a maze pattern, with in between valleys being
fluoro green. When ridges open the polyps are about 5mm in length and maybe
1.5mm in diameter. When I feed it mushed Mysis shrimp it seems to expand and
close around them so the green valleys disappear and the brown ridges are all
soft and greatly expanded and polyps have gone again. So should I just maintain
this once a day or does it need other variety of zooplankton as well? << I
believe that a variety is very important. I would use something like Cyclops
shrimp or rotifers weekly. >> Or anything else, other than calcium supplements?
<< In addition to calcium supplements, please check and watch your
alkalinity. That is every bit as important. >>
<< Adam Blundell >>
Brain Food, and Other Coral Concerns!
Hi Bob!
<Actually, Scott F. in today!>
I have looked thru a lot of your articles, but this problem I couldn't find. It may be me.
<Yeap.. it's you! Hah- just kidding!>
We have a 125 gal. tank with a wet/dry filter, protein skimmer, chiller, and even bought a r/o unit with deionizer. It is a starter reef tank with 120lbs. live Fiji rock, Yellow Tang, 3 Spot Domino, 2 Clarkii Clowns, Yellow Polyps, Orange Button Polyps, Open Brain, Red Mushrooms, one Ricordea, and misc. snails, starfish, crabs, and shrimp.
<Nice mix>
The problem is, our Orange Button Polyp which has tripled its size and is gorgeous has developed white spots on the front part of the cluster. They are only on the "stem" of the polyp. The polyp is still beautiful and shows absolutely no signs of distress, actually it is
still producing polyps. The polyps on the front do stand real tall compared to the others, where the ones on the back make a ball shape. The only time they close is when the lights go off at night. They open readily when the lights come on. All other corals are totally clean. Please help me. We have had this polyp for 6 months and it is my favorite.
<Hard to be 100 % certain. Possibly just a migration of pigment, but it could be anything from flatworms to some other pest, too. If the coral is otherwise reacting well, and appears healthy, I would not be too concerned at this point. Just observe carefully and let us know if you notice a decline in the coral's health at any point>
I know I am being a pain, but could you also tell me the best thing to feed our Brain Coral and amount. Everyone I talk to disagrees and I haven't had much luck with the internet or books.
Thank you sooooo much!!!
Julie
<You're NOT a pain, Julie! As far as feeding the Brain Coral is concerned, I'd use fine zooplankton-based foodstuffs, such as minced
Mysis, krill, or other "meaty" foods. The newly-available frozen "Cyclop-eeze" is a great food for these species! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
To Feed or Not to Feed
Hello,
<Hi, Bill... Anthony Calfo here answering Bob's mail while he travels across the great Midwest... and a fine time of year for it too!?>
I recently purchased (2 weeks ago) a coral sold to me as "Platygyra" (spelled incorrectly
I'm sure)
<correct you are sir... Platygyra ... represented by more than a few species in the trade>
and was told it did not need to be fed at all, that it would take its nutrients from the water.
<not even close to true...>
When I was feeding my brown Scopas tang some brine shrimp as a treat yesterday, the
Platygyra extended long tentacles from the neon green pores between its maze-brain like surface grabbing all the brine it could. I'm guessing I was told wrong, and this coral should be fed?
<most definitely... as they say, Form follows Function. Your observation and the evidence of responsive feeding tentacles indicates an animal that has evolved...to feed. Imagine that. And despite what the LFS said... apparently, this coral didn't read the same books that they did (smile). Feed finely shredded ocean meats in an attempt to deliver zooplankton substitutes. Fine krill or
Mysid shrimp would be a good start. Please go easy on the brine shrimp. Frozen adult brine shrimp are nutritively hollow... rather like water made to look like
shrimp...hehe>
Just making sure I'm not doing something wrong for the coral..
<Your considerate information gathering gives me hope for this lil' fella in your care. Experiment carefully in acclimation of this animal to new light. Platygyra occur over a wide range, and various specimens of any given species may have drastically different
tolerances for light and water movement>
thanks in advance :) you're always so helpful!
<with kind regards, Anthony>
Platygyra Follow-up
Thank you for the quick response
<quite welcome, Bill>
I played around a bit with lighting yesterday, and while moving the coral it is rather large, almost 8" in diameter -its rather spherical, more like a brain shape) I noticed the undersides of it are degenerate.
<that's Ok... so are most of my friends>
I can see the coral skeleton where it wraps to the bottom of the rock it is attached to. Should I be
concerned?
<possibly a little, but a picture would help if possible>
Or is this possibly a result of poor lighting?
<not in a short time in your tank/captivity. Any idea how long the LFS held it before your purchase or an educated guess on
minimum time this coral has been held in total in captivity?>
My reef tank has 96 watt smart lamp power compacts on it (36") and they illuminate the tank very well,
<how deep is the tank and at what depth is the coral placed?>
but just can't reach to beneath this coral due to its shape... the coral seems to love very high flow, as when placed in low flow it's neon green draws so far inside its hardly noticeable.. when placed with the output of my return pump nearly blasting the coral on the side, it is out and extended and offers tentacles from time to time trying for food...
<interesting, astute and probably accurate observation about water flow for this animal>
I've noticed every morning when the lights first click on its tentacles are out, is it possible it is nocturnal?
(I'm still learning a lot about corals,
<no apologies... we all start somewhere. The coral's feeding tentacles at night simply indicate a feeding preference leaning towards zooplankton most likely (when zooplankton is most
prevalent). Quite natural and normal and the very best time to feed with substitutes like
Mysid shrimp or very finely shredded meats. Feeding will help the
receding tissue recover faster... but don't overdo it. Begin with 1-3 times weekly by deliberate target feeding of this animal>
thanks again for the help :)
<Best regards, Anthony>
Bill More on Platygyra
the store that had this coral before I purchased it said it was held
captive for over three months.
hope this helps- it's one reason I bought this particular coral, it was a
"survivor" that had acclimated well to a captive system (the store, however,
did have a multi thousand gallon reef system for livestock, I'm sure the
water had to have been better than my 58 gal. )
<actually less likely... big systems are expensive to maintain (w/c's and the like)... plus the water quality (not clarity which falsely leads customers) is usually errant from straying over months of slight (or not so) neglect from a busy store to a slow lazy store>
in the tank the coral is approx 4" from the top of the water level, which is
a mere 2" above the water- the top is covered w/ glass from edge to edge, to
prevent escape of my albino ribbon eel (captive for 4 months, eating live
peppermint shrimp regularly !!!)
<sounds like good placement>
the lighting is a 96watt power compact SmartLamp half blue half full spec
<way too little light for the long run, but with the coral centered and shallow... not a problem for now>
hope this helps.. will try and gain access to a digital camera.. the
degeneration seems to not have progressed any.. I purchased Mysid shrimp
<excellent foodstuff>
as well as silversides and other various nutrient soaked foods.
would you recommend soaking the shrimp in Kent Zoe or like vitamins soaks?
<highly recommend Selcon>
what about a coral dip?
<not necessary without evidence of necrosis or infection... described in my book if you are interested... www.readingtrees.com and in Eric Borneman's
wonderful new Aquarium Corals book>
thanks again!!! Bill Hammond
<very welcome, Bill. Best of luck to you! Anthony>
Re: I don't think the brain Coral was pooping.....
Thanks Anthony!,
<very welcome, David my friend>
I'll try moving the brain up closer to the light, I'm definitely going to
have to get more LR for my tank, make the base higher.
<LR is always a good investment in the tank>
I'll cut the cubes
in 1/3s, problem with my feeding,
<remember...very fine/shredded food is necessary. Cube foods are often gelatin
based and hold together in a large and hard to digest chunk.>
is that the brain doesn't put out the
feeder tentacles until about 1-2 hours after the light goes off, is there a
way to convince it to do this earlier?
<yes, take the thawed pack juice from frozen meaty foods (that is generally discarded for fear of contributing to algae in the tank) and put a spoonful as an attractant into the aquarium prior to feeding. After 15
minutes or so, the feeding tentacles will usually come out. Shrimp type prey (cocktail, mysids, krill, etc) usually works best for this.>
or, should I just concentrating on
feeding twice a day, once for the fish and the yellow polyps, and then again
once the feeder tentacles come out?
how does that sound? Thanks!!! David.
PS. yea every night when the lights go out more and more things come
crawling out of their wholes, its rather amazing, I just can't get over all the brittle stars, is there a microscopic variety of them?
<yes... and livebearing/fast breeding>
or are these
really baby's of the bigger variety?
<nope...very unlikely>
I'll tell you the Firefish is enjoying
it, I caught him/her (that's why we named it Lola) trying to get down a leg yesterday!
<hehe...got to love it. Tell Lola to crunch all he/she wants... they'll make more <wink>. Kindly, Anthony>
Feeding brain coral
I am considering purchasing a brain coral and was interested in what is best to feed this type of coral.
<Hmmm... that depends on what type of Brain coral. Some closed Goniastrea brain corals need high light and no target feeding whatsoever (they are nearly autotrophic). Open brain corals (Trachyphyllia) however are fairly low light and require very regular feedings (minimum 3-5 times weekly). >
I have read that it should be feed shredded pieces of shrimp and another source suggested zooplankton. What would you recommend, shrimp from local grocery cut up or zooplankton from fish store?
<a mixed and very finely minced variety of all/many: krill, cocktail shrimp (raw shell on), mysids,
Pacifica plankton, Gammarus, etc>
Also, I have read daily or weekly feedings?
<depends on light... very small almost daily feedings for best growth and health>
How would you feed the coral, just squirt the food on top of the open areas? Thank you, Abby
<make a slurry of food in saltwater... put a tiny bit in 15 minutes before feeding to get polyps open.. then gently baste food with a tube,
pipette or turkey baster in the general direction of the animals but never blasting right on top (frightens polyps in). Best regards, Anthony>
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